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Found 27 results

  1. Hello one and all, For those that have more experience with pneumatic systems, I was wondering if a self-sustainable, closed-loop system is feasible with LEGO pneumatics? I have been toying with the following idea in my mind: Air tanks lend air to an engine and to a power generator, leftover air from the engine going to a turbine, and from that to two compressors. Power from the pneumatic power generator goes to the lego-built compressors which resupply air to the air tanks. Would such a system work? Or am I looking at a pipe dream (pun intended)?
  2. I just built the Mercedes Arocs (set 42043) and it seems that the crane drops hard on the table or truck bed when I set the switches to lower it. Is this the expected behavior, or did I do something wrong in my assembly? If it is the expected behavior, are there any mods with instructions on how to remedy it? I'm wondering if swapping out the lift pneumatics for linear actuators might be viable? Also, if there are any other mods with instructions for the set I'd be very interested in those as well. Thanks so much for the help
  3. This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics.
  4. Nazgarot

    Lego Hydrolics

    Hi. I would like to make a shout out for this company: They have launced a fluid pump compatible with Lego pneumatics. Does anyone have experiences with them? I really like the idea as it is something I always have considered trying to make the pneumatic system less jerky. I would however use a thin silicon oil rather than water... -ED-
  5. Hey there, I wonder if anyone is interested in seeing smaller and or bigger Lego engine pieces. You know those light bluish grey engine block pieces, connecting rods and yellow piston pieces? Smaller and bigger versions of those. Smaller versions can be used to put inside a moc built locomotive, boat or possibly a semi or even pneumatic engines. Bigger ones could be used for huge ships or pneumatic engines. So what do you guys think about this? I could design these things and open a bricklink store for you to buy. Let me know, I think it's a useful idea...
  6. Hi all, I am wondering about if any of you fellow forumers have any experience with using third party 9v dc air compressors with LEGO Pneumatics...? (No advert intended, random sample picture of above mentioned system just to clear things up, the system in question draws around 350-400 milliAmps and generates about 80 Kpa/ 0.8 bar, which i know is on the lower side of performance, but this is why i ask here...) I have made several well (or less so well) working all-LEGO buildt pumps, and as you might guess this alternative would be way more usefull and convenient. I am personally amazed how TLG does not provide by default such a system, it could well live side-by-side with common brick-buildt pumps and i am sure it would be appreciated by Moc builders and AFOL users. We have motors allready, how about mini compressor for convenience and efficiency? Thanks in advance for any comment and/or advice! Any more powerfull suggestion in this size or similar would be very helpfull...
  7. Here's my first attempt at making a fully functional backhoe loader, with motorized functions controlled remotely using two SBricks and pneumatic functions controlled remotely using a wired external pneumatic remote, something I've been inspired to try by Jennifer Clark's models. All in all, the model has 9 motors in it (and 2 more in the remote) and 6 pneumatic circuits. Photos & reading:
  8. Hello all! I don't know if this is in the right place or not, but it's quite an outlandish topic so I'm gonna assume this is right! The pneumatics system has gone through many part additions and changes over the decades. One component that never showed up is the hydraulic motor. Now, I'm aware that hydraulics and pneumatics are very different things, but the operational differences would fade in higher speed applications. What I mean by that is if there were to be a very high speed (due to the differences in how air and liquid drive these motors) gear type or axial piston type motor for example, and you coupled them to the existing planetary gear trains found inside most PF motors, the results in theory would be fairly decent torque and roughly normal lego motor speed inside of a roughly lego motor-sized housing. So why haven't they done this? And how come no one else has done it on the internet so far as I've seen? I know you can make rotary motion using pistons in an "engine" application, but that method has some obvious limitations barring it from actual use in an MOC usually due to size and/or switching inefficiency. Let me know what you all think of this as an idea, and fill me in if you know why this wouldn't work in practice if it doesn't!
  9. Hi guys! At least I has finished my next MOC and want to introduced the finished model to all of you! Welcome my International Lonestar truck! It's dimensions are: - Lengh: 101 stud or 80 cm - Width: 31 studs or 25 cm without mirrors - High: 37 studs or 30 cm excluding antennas and exhaust pipes. It consists of more than 5000 Lego parts, including 9 motors. It has: - Great Charbel's 8 speed gearbox, modified by me to the 16 speed one by adding high/low gear to the main output. It has a special shifter. It's all RC. - Independant powerfull pneumatic brakes on each wheel. Inspired by Sheepo's Peterbilt. - Pneumatically controlled fifth wheel. - Independant suspencion on front and dependant one on the rear axles. - Suspended driver's and passenger's seats, doors with locks and shock absorbers. - Detalized interior. - Inline 6 cylinder engine like the real truck. Power functions is described at the picture below, I think this is more interesting than just to read. Also I include pneumatics sheme. Enjoy the pictures please, I hope some video will apear nowadays. Unfortunately, rear differentials can't cope with such a huge torgue and truck cant drive fast on the floor, sorry. Please visit my Bricksafe page for more photo. Building instructions are available here: VIDEO AVAILABLE NOW!!
  10. Hello all, I have been building recently a 1/10 scale SCORE Class 1 Buggy style vehicle. I have figured out all suspension geometry, caster angle and whatnot, but I would really like to be able to make the suspension not as bouncy. So, I guess my question is, does anyone have good methods for damping shock absorbers so that they are still soft, but return their compression and don't take too much force to compress? I have tested pneumatic cylinders, but they hold my springs from returning, and arent as soft as I'd like. Thanks
  11. Hi all, As an entry to the TC10 contest I would like to try to make a side loaded recycling truck based on Mercedes Atego chassis. The pneumatic is powered by single L Motor and it will be using 7 cylinders. I'm building it for a while so the actual progress is from the first chassis mock-up to current state. Planned functions Pneumatic functions will be following: Side loading of trash bins Trash compacting Body dump Tail gate opening Cabin tilting Other functions: Hog steering connected to cabin steering wheel Fake I4 engine Front and rear suspension Schema of pneumatic system Inspiration The idea is build something like this: with Mercedes Atego 4x4 chasis: Actual progress: Cabin design
  12. Hello everyone, This is going to be (hopefully) my entry for TC10: Front Loader Garbage Truck Functions to be included: Two rear axle with differentials V4 or V6 engine Steering of course with HOG Independent suspension in front Rear axle suspension similar to AROCS Pneumatic pump via M motor or manual pump Pneumatic fork container lift Pneumatic container lift Pneumatic ejector Pneumatic door cover Pneumatic tailgate The picture below shows all the functions. Only the body raise will not be implemented (I'm out of cylinders). It will be a combination of V1 and V2 pneumatics. The scale will be similar to the AROCS, same wheels. And here is a quick prototype to check the feasibility of the front loader. I will post further progress once I get some time to work on it. Any recommendation welcome. Thank you.
  13. It's time for me to submit an entry for the TC10 contest. After toying with a lot of ideas, the idea of a concept bulldozer was the one I gravitated to. I had a lot of fun coming up with the esthetics. Hope you enjoy as well. Features: Power Functions Pneumatic Pump Blade Lift (2 Pneumatic Rams) Blade Tilt/Angle (2 Pneumatic Rams) Hood Opening (1 Pneumatic Ram) Ripper (1 Pneumatic Ram) Opening Driver Door 16 Cylinder Engine I'll post the video soon.
  14. [TC10] Dancing Clone Trooper Description I made a dancing Clone Trooper. The strings are moved by pneumatic cylinders, which are controlled by a custom joystick. Controls: Each leg up/down, independent Each arm left/right, independent Both arms up/down Powered by two L motors, driving two small compressors. Two air tanks are incorporated to make the controls more responsive. The video shows much more than any description ever will. Video Pictures
  15. Ludo Visser

    [TC10] Box Factory

    When TC10 was announced, I just had to come up with something. I didn't collect all those pneumatics for nothing...! However, due to work, I had very little time until now, but that gave me plenty of time to think about what to build when I would have time. I already saw a lot of great entries, and it was hard to come up with something original. It should have a sequencer, because I never built one before, except for the B-model of 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig. After much contemplation, I came up with the following (apologies for the crappy photo: it's late and the light is far from optimal): This is not a dinosaur. It is my prototype box factory. It will move boxes as shown in the front-right (2x2x2 studs) in a GBC-like perpetual motion. Or, that is the idea at least. In the back is a 4-step sequencer. Each cylinder toggles two switches, so that I can separate "logic air" from "work air". The contraption on the right is my "robot". The arm moves up and down, the whole thing can slide forward and backwards on the stands, and the "head", which contains the box, can rotate 90 degrees. The long 1x11 cylinder hanging from the back of the sequencer is going to push a box in the "head", and the small one is going to push it out again. So far, everything sort of works. The big challenge is to make sure that the robot completes his motions within one step of the sequencer. I plan to do this by putting a multi-pump compressor with one or two air tanks on the "work air" channel and a "weak", single pump compressor on the "logic air" channel. I hope that the beefy compressor will make the motions of the robot quick enough. The prototyping with two hand pumps seems to indicate it's feasible. So, I need to build two compressors, a guiding channel for the boxes to bring them from the dumping point back to the beginning, and prettify the whole thing. Four weeks to go, right? What do you think? Can it work? Any advice?
  16. Here is my latest creation. I won't post all the details, please visit in terms of how it works, details, etc. Briefly, I sought to create a funnycar that would propel itself. Because it would be propelling itself, it would have to be fairly large (enough air for short burst of speed), but at the same time light. limiting the coefficient of drag would also be very important. Thus the ungainly looks of the thing. But..... funnycars aren't built for looks, rather for acceleration... right? Kinda inspired by 42050....but I wanted to create something with an engine sound, fast, and help true to the funnycar name. The drivetrain was incredibly simple but effective. Neutral… and one forward drive gear. This is the gear set-up for most drag racers. This can get complex though, with many sophisticated models allowing a type of clutch that limits slip and only allows a certain amount of torque to be applied at different RPM levels. But for all intents and purposes, for this model, all I wanted was neutral and drive. This certainly tested Lego gears, changeover catch, and drive rings. But incredibly, there was no skipping. This was quite amazing given the amount of torque that was applied to the drive train. This is similar to real drag racers. I remember a documentary I watched a while ago stating that the gears in a real drag racer only last 2-3 races before needing replacement because of the tremendous torque, heat, and stress applied. The goal of the drive train was to have a neutral gear so that the engine (which is from, Thanks Alex! I love this engine!) could first rev up. Although the engine is quite powerful in and of itself, the fact that it was already running at approximately 1500 RPMs before the gears engaged really resulted in the car’s speed. The whole set-up looked like what is below. To explain the picture you have the arrows pointing in opposite directions representing the tendency of the drive ring to want to pop out of place because it was trying to engage a set of gears where moving at different speeds (well, one was moving and the other was stationary) and the rubber bands acting against it. Initially, when the engine was started I had an axle placed in the hole where the left arrow is to hold it in place. Placing the axle here would stretch the bands back and disengage the drive. So I would first start the engine, let it rev to approximately 1500 RPMs, put the axle, the bands would pull the catch, engage the drive ring into the receiving gear and….. we were off! The “fuel” that was used was simply air. The air tank was the only thing in this model that was not 100% Lego. All else was. The setup was something that I had built before, just on a smaller scale (one liter bottle). Details can be found here but here are some photos. The 1 liter bottle I used I obviously blacked with spray paint. Simply cut out the nozzle from a bike tube and used very strong epoxy-type glue to seal it all. Worked great. Thanks for taking a look. Hope you enjoyed!
  17. Hello, I'm happy to introduce you to my modular garage with power functions and pneumatics: This modular has the following components: 1x Rechargeable battery box (8878) 1x M motor 1x air tank 1x manometer 2x small pumps (6L) 2x small pneumatic cylinders 2x medium pneumatic cylinders with square base Approximately 1,5m of pneumatic tubes (I didn't count, maybe there's more) I always wanted to mix technic and regular system bricks and I already did so with my Ice Cream Parlor (http://www.eurobrick...opic=111129&hl=). Now, with my third modular, it was time to introduce pneumatics! :D This is the coolest part of LEGO for me and to increase the cool factor I have used manometer as well :D This building's purpose is mostly to have fun, so I didn't care that much for the fact that gigantic manometer on top of the building is rather rare sight in real life ;) I simply always wanted to have one and observe the changing pressure as I play around with my model and here it is! Anyway, we have here compressor that powers cylinders that open the doors (2 small cylinders) and rise and lower the car lift (2 medium w/ square base). The list accepts cars up to 7 wide and has a lot of lifting power. You can remove all three sections of the roof for easy access. Here is full gallery on Bricksafe: And here is movie on youtube: Enjoy!
  18. I present my new MOC, MOD Mercedes Arocs SILENT EAGLE Flight Simulator. Model was built for a competition on (polish AFOL forum). It is a flight simulator that can sometimes be found in amusement parks or at various air shows. But it is not based on any particular model. The original chassis is extended by a few studs between the axles to accommodate an additional pump in the compressor and gear drive for a second pair of outriggers behind the rear axle. Behind the Arocs cabin I installed servo and Ir to a control model . Everything above the chassis is already my design. It is full motion flight simulation platform with 6 small pneumatic cylinders each individually connected to a switch. The simulator is manually controlled from the cab. It is powered from its own compressor, two small pumps, airtank and PF XL motor. Additionally simulator is equipped with a new narrow long cylinder to open the door. It also has LED imitating projector and white panel acting as a screen. Two independent pneumatic systems are there to support vehicle outriggers does not lose pressure while playing simulator . LEDs are also in front and rear lights and running automatically when motion model. Weight 3.9 kg Length 61 cm Width 17 cm Height 24 cm 2 x PF L motor propulsion 1 x PF servo steering 1 x PF L motor mechanical functions 1 x PF XL motor simulator compressor 3 x PF swiches 4 x PF Led 6 meters of pneumatic hoses Gallery Movie
  19. Hey everyone, I posted a version of my Unimog recently.. here are more pictures and another video. For full details of this project check out my mocpages I am too lazy to put it all here I had lots of fun with this project, and I think it raises some "firsts" or at least breaks some ground in Technic building in new areas. First, I have no idea for certain, and will probably be proved wrong (which is fine by me) but this model may have the largest third party tires used for Technic models. They are nearly 6 inches tall! I have not seen any taller. Second, I haven't really seen any models being used for muddin'. We have truck trials and climbing competitions, but I have never really seen muddin competitions. This really is not possible with electrically powered models (b/c of the water), and that is why pneumatically powered models are so cool. They can open new doors to our hobby. I haven't seen a model go through more mud or water than this model (maybe I should post this to the records post ). The tires are nearly six inches tall, and with the water well surpassing the wheel wells in the video, this things can easily traverse through seven inches of water. Last.... which goes with the second... but I haven't really seen a lot of pneumatically powered MOCs used for trucks... period. Or climbers, etc. I have seen them used for cars, large cars, but not trucks. ALthough large LPE are not nearly as compact as motors, I think they open new doors as already discussed. Enjoy the pics and video... and remember to look at my page for further details.
  20. nerdsforprez

    Pneumatic Unimog

    Hey everyone, I will post more details later..... but I just wanted to quickly share this. This is a model I have posted before, but now with tons of changes. Same pneumatic engine (Alex's @ LPE power) but geared down even more from my first version. Also, much larger tires (each weigh 175, 700 grams for just wheels). More details to come, these aren't the only changes but a few. I primarily made the adjustments not for pulling power but for muddin, and climbin' -- but it looks like it can pull as well. All together the weight of the three vehicles in the video is 5700 grams..... but the vehicle in the middle has a brushed motor, and for those in the know... understand that is alot of resistance b/c brushed motors have internal brushed that make the motor very hard to turn manually. Pics and more videos to come! For more information on the first version... check out my signature block. Hopefully this second version operates better in the mud then the first
  21. Hi all, This is one of my first MOC's after a dark age. I'm really excited about the sbrick, and though it looks like serious competition, I thought I would still enter and complete my project as a personal goal. We have a 1966 Chevy C-10 Truck on air ride suspension. Loosely based on a real 'rat rod' truck. The model is 'bagged' on air ride pneumatic suspension. 4 motor functions: 1. L for Drive 2. M for Steering 3. M for Air Pump 4. M for Ride height via air switch. I worked really hard on trying to get fancy with a transmission, but they are either too big for the limited space I have or just aren't robust enough. In my pictures you can see that I tried various setups based on some notable Technic builder's models. Ultimately, they just didn't function as smoothly as I had hoped. I did have fun building them though. :-) With the frame on the ground, and it being a short cab, I didn't have room to implement the transmission with PTO to control the air pump (as originally planned) so I'm scrapping the transmission and just simplifying so I can make the deadline. First Transmission 4 speed, using a small LA to shift And here is the LA installed on top: The shifting was rough and the resulting transfer to the wheels was sketchy at best. I tried a two speed robust from Sariel and also one of Sheepo's 4 speed compact transmissions that uses rubber band tension. Sheepo's transmission is really clever. I tweaked it and had modest success but overall it was too complicated for my model.The real truck was supposed to be a '3 on the tree' so i might work that in after the competition. Here we have slfroden's linear gearbox. It uses a large LA and works very well. It's just huge. It can fit sideways in my model behind the cab, but the height is 4 studs too tall. Also getting it transferred to the drive train seemed overly complicated considering the placement. I think in a future moc, i'll start with the transmission and build the car around it. The LA is under the M motor. It's a WIP at the moment so keep that in mind. I do have a servo motor, but I JUST built lucio switch's awesome white 4WD truck. It used up my two XL motors also so I planned to use the L motor I have to drive this moc. It's probably not enough, but being as it is a 'cruiser' with air ride suspension, it certainly isn't built for performance. Stay tuned for more body work and a video. Thank you for any suggestions or comments.
  22. As the title suggest, I'm curious what plans everyone has for the new pneumatic system when it becomes available? I'm going to use the new 1x11 pistons to build a Wasteco front loading garbage truck ** Hey can a MOD change the title from "move" to "moc" ? My computer auto-corrected me ............
  23. UPDATED 13/2 2015: So my entry is finished, and I decided to redo the first post in the topic to make it easier to find info regarding the finished project. A little backstory regarding this MOC: Firstly, it has been designed specifically for this contest, over the last month-ish. I initially was going to make a more modern truck with the same pneumatic loop function, but then I thought it would be fun to make it more of a tribute to the brilliant B-model of the 8868, which I think many people have not had the pleasure to enjoy. When that had been decided, I had to figure out how to adapt the concept into studless form, while still keeping the scale and functions (and the rather ugly form factor) of the original model, as well as what other features to add to it. So, I ended up with this: It looks a bit messy, I know, nut hopefully the rest of the pictures along with the video will leave you with a good impression The features are as follows: Motorized (RC) functions: Rear wheel drive from a vertically mounted PF L-motor Steering with correct angles on both front axles from a PF Servo motor Dumpable bed from a PF M-motor Pneumatic loop for the loading action from dual small pumps driven by a PF M-motor Independent double wishbone suspension on both front axles Rear live axle suspension with leaf springs (flex axles) Dump bed flap opens via chains when bed is dumped Openable doors Adjustable seats A close up of the cab and left arm. As you can see, I have added doors The exposed tan 3L pins are unfortunately a necessity, as they function as a mechanical stop when the arms are lifted. ...that open! And behold: There is even a steering wheel and lots of instruments! The business end of things. The claw is based on the same principle as the original, but use of modern parts and some redesigning has left it stronger and more reliable. Uppermost position of the arms. It is actually dependent on the added weight of the load (for example a wheel) for the pneumatics to function in the right order. If there is nothing there, the arms will start to lower before the claw is fully opened. Another view Dumping bed in full tilt position. The chains on either side work to open the flap (?) at the back Here is a view of the valve used to toggle the cylinder that toggles the valve for the action. It is connected to the arms, so when the arms move up, the valve moves up, and then release air into the toggling cylinder, that then "reverses" the cycle, opening the claw and lowering the arms. As they move back down, this valve is then moved down, the toggling cylinder switches the action valve, the claw closes, the arms rise, and cycle repeats. Absolutely brilliant system! Here is a view down through the roof, where you can see the previously mentioned "toggle cylinder" and the "action valve". Also visible is the upside-down servo motor used for steering. Here is a view of the rear when the bed is raised. The M-motor in the middle is for the dump bed LA. The upside-down mounted M-motor to the left in the picture drives the dual pumps in the right of the picture. Lastly, here is a video showing off the functions in real life: Hope you like my model and hope to cash in on some of those nostalgia point Erik Leppen talked about
  24. marceriusLV


    This is my first RC MOC. Built for small event in May 2014. Specs: 4x4 3 differentials Drive - XL motor Steering - M motor Pneumatic suspension on both axles Autovalve + compressor - M motor Dumping - M motor PF lights Work in progress: Design of the rear part was rushed, so there was room for improvements. Rear pneumatic suspension worked bad. Thanks to TGBDZ for helping with bodywork and dump bed. And for fun you can check it in action in 2 part video Part 1 Part 2 More pictures here
  25. I have an opportunity to purchase a very large lot of newer technic elements for a little over $900US. I estimate that there are over 7500 pieces including; At least 4 newer top tier kits 12+ IR Receivers 6+ IR Remotes 7+ XL motors 8+ large motors 16+ medium motors 10+ PF lights 4+ large pneumatic cylinders and other associated components such as pumps, switches, hoses Large Metal Hook And a lot of other very valuable components. I know that this purchase will give me enough elements to start building just about anything outside of purchasing a few pieces here on there off of Bricklink. I know that it's a little expensive but will end of saving me money in the long run from having to purchases a lot of parts off of BrickLink. Should I go for it?