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Found 247 results

  1. Hello Guys. I started to build a Trabant 601 Pictures: Details of the Car: Front Wheel Drive Independent Suspension (only in front) Pendular Suspension in the back V2 Ottomotor (built in transverse) 4 Speed Gearbox AND it Looks awesome What i have till now: So the Chassis is pretty much finished. I´m still waiting for my servo that i ordererd. It should arrive tomorrow The car has a 4 Speed gearbox powered by 1l Motor. The fakemotor runs all the time even when the car is standing still. The Suspension is the same as in the real car. Some Pictures: (Sorry for the bad Quality) Some tips where i should build in the Bat-Box? Tell me what you think
  2. Until the Maz 535 is finished, I'll present some of my MOCs, which are a bit older, but weren't publicized yet. I start with the LeTourneau L-2350 wheel loader, the largest in the world. I made a scale model, with PF IR remote. All functions are motorized: - Drive - Steering - Bucket lifting - Bucket tilting Except drive, everything works via strings and reels. This way it could be built in this scale, there is really a limited space inside, autovalves or servo operated penumatic valves with compressor aren't possible. Weight: 1058 g Top speed: 0,6 km/h Parts count: 680 Video: Pictures: Gallery: With blueprints: Feel free to ask or comment.
  3. Hello Guys! I think it is time for me to present my latest Agricultural MOC; The New Holland T8.420 Tractor It is remote controlled by IR, with 4 functions. Drive, steer, lift/lower the rear liftarms, and a pneumatic valve. It has all wheel drive, with a middle differential, and differentials in both front and rear axles. It is driven by a XL motor. The front axle is with suspension, and the steering is powered by a servomotor. It has PTO shaft in the rear, that can be enabled manually. The Liftarms rear are powered by an M-motor, and can swing sideways like in real life. It has a pneumatic pump, and airtank, and it is possible to attach up to three external pneumatic Circuits, and the fourth outlet is permantly used for the front lift. Under the Hood there is a 6 cylinder engine, with 419 HP, and of course a fan. You an see more pics at http://upload.bricks...ry.cgi?f=549840
  4. Hey fans! Today I'm gonna to share with your my latest project. This is middle or even small scale American Truck. It's all RC. Also I/m planning to make a white cab for it from suitable parts. HD photos: It has the next functions: XL- motor for driving M - motor for steering M - motor for gear shifting. It has 4 speed Sariel's sequental gearbox M - motor for the pump A Pair of front and a pair of rare lights. Openable doors and hood Pneumatic PTO for the trailer. PLease enjoy the photos, click to enlarge. Video coming soon... Openable hood PTO for pneumatic, Fake Manometer (Air pressure meter), fake lights to light connecting trailer in the dark Now here are some photos with trailer. Loaded and not. As you can see, all wheels in the trailer are simply but suspended. Very expensive loading, though)) - Brothers? - Definitely not
  5. Hello This will be my first post to showing one of my moc: Mercedes Actros 3248 Hooklift. I know a lot of people know this model, from my pictures on Brickshelf. I finished building this moc in early 2010, so it is 6 years old. Yes its very late to post here, but i think better late then never. The truck ist pf-remote controlled with 4 functions: - Drive by one PF-XL Motor to the rear wheels (2-Axle) - Steering by one old-style 9V-Motor (2838c01), second axle with transmission 16:20 - Hooklift powered by one PF-XL Motor - Boom look for tipping - loading / unloading controlled by one micro-motor (the eletric-cable can be changed for electric trailers or additional equipment There are also some manually fuctiones / features: - Two-speed transmission with gear ratio 1 : 1 or 1 : 3 - PF-lights in front and 9V-flashing lights on the roof working when the battery-box "on" - Openable doors by the drivers-cabine - Openable doors in backside by all three containers Scale from this model is 1 : 17. There are some more pictures in my brickshelf-gallery here: http://www.brickshel...?m=swissbagger1 And also one video on my youtube-channel: Feel free for your comments Kind regards Beat Schuler (Swissbagger)
  6. This is my entry for the Rebrick competition. Essentially, it is a mashup of the 911 Targa and 918 Spyder (the 914.5 is the average of the two model numbers). It is built to 1:10 scale. Back in 2011, there were rumours of Porsche introducing a model between the 911 and 918 Spyder (one website did joke about calling it the 914.5), but such a model hasn't yet been manufactured (although it is being developed as the Porsche 960). The model is roughly 1:10 scale at about 58 studs long, 25 wide (27 including mirrors) and 16 high with 68.8x36mm wheels. Please bear in mind that I am a relatively inexperienced builder having only been building for 2 years and with only a few thousand parts to hand - by the end, I had completely run out of light grey parts. I went for function over form - while I am good with making ultra-compact mechanical systems such as gearboxes and suspended axles, bodywork isn't really my strong point. Sorry that the video is a little shaky - looking into getting better video equipment. Please watch it - you'll get to see the internal workings right down to the core! I haven't provided many pictures here because the detailed stuff is in the video. This is the FULL video (>1min) - the video I submitted to the Rebrick competition is a cut-down unlisted version of this. A full list of functions: Flat-6 piston engine in rear, driving rear axle. 8-speed paddle-shifting gearbox (sequential) for the piston engine. PF Large motor driving the front (no gearbox, just like the 918). Unfortunately, I don't have any IR components other than MINDSTORMS, so it isn't RC. Full independent suspension with non-zero camber and castor angles (I think it also has kingpin inclination - not sure about that). Steering wheel operates 4-wheel steering. The knobs on the front (black 12-tooth gears) and rear (hidden, accessible through rear window) control the suspension's ride height. Each wheel has its own control, so it is possible to make the car lean to one side (might be useful for oval racing). Two seats in the front with opening doors. Retractable rear wing. Folding targa-style roof. I also made a few custom stickers for this model (unprofessionally of course - just printed them out on paper). The Porsche logo is on the front, the steering wheel and the wheel hubs. The rear air intake slits (911-style) are also done with a sticker. I added the Porsche brand name and a fake model name on the back. The "Spy" and "Targ" bits were edited out of the actual "Spyder" and "Targa" logos; the "914.5" was done from scratch. The number plates aren't my own - you may recognise them from the 42043 set. You can probably tell that I lacked good headlight pieces even after searching though my dust-filled System brick collection. The best I could find were white 24-tooth clutch gears - I guess that gives it a hardcore-TECHNIC feel. Thanks for reading :D!
  7. I have some difficulties in placing this topic in correct section. Should it be Trains? On the other hand it is supposed to work in a modular town, that's why I put it in Town. This is my biggest creation so far. Actually those are two modulars designed to be placed together on a display. The depth is 48 studs instead of regular 32 because of tracks and platform. I decided it was unrealistic to stick to 32 and still have decent building. Anyway, on with presentation :) What I hope is apparent from the picture above is that I incorporated some lights into these structures. The old 9V battery box is in the warehouse and gives power to all six pairs of lights (2x 9V in warehouse and 4x PF in station). There is also old style 9V switch that controls turning lights on and off without the need to reach for the battery box (black switch on the side of the warehouse). Before I show you the warehouse let's have a look at the platform: The warehouse: This is how the electric parts are distributed in the warehouse. You can also see the inside with some pallets and a cupboard for employees. Now, let's have a look at the station building: First - the roof. This is where I put all the lights that go with the station. This is how it looks like from the underside: That's 4 pairs of PF lights, one PF extension cable and one 9V cable to provide easy to disconnect outlet. The station itself has some nice flowers on the front, benches for passengers, some roof over the platform and a phone booth. That's what you could already see from the outside. So let's have a look inside :) There is a bit o a stir at the moment because of some careless passenger. Don't worry - this is being cleaned as we speak :) Looking from the front of the station you have confectionery that sells ice cream too and on the right your typical railway station fast food stand (with microwave in case your yesterday pizza is cold! :D) Looking from the platform side on the left there are some tables belonging to the restaurant, ticket booth and some waiting area. On the right there is an obligatory public toilet :), two gaming machines and luggage deposit lockers. If you wonder how it looks in town - its natural environment - here are just a couple of pictures: Full gallery is available as always on my Bricksafe:
  8. mtrkustoms

    [MOC] RENFE 151 "Santa Fe"

    Dear All, From the MTRkustoms train Factory i have the pleasure to announce my latest MOC, After some Spanish Train MOCs I wanted to make a Steam Locomotive, and I Started with the biggest and more powerful Spanish Steam, the “Santa Fe” 151 (French/Spanish) 2-10-2 (Whyte) This locomotive was able to pull a 450 tons train at 30km/h and a slope of 20mils The most difficult challenge was create a MOC that can run in R104 Blastemtrack, and R40 curves. To get the power I use a 9v dummy motor to pick up energy and 2 L PF Motors inside the boiler attached to the 9v pickup, is not a fast MOC, but is a very powerful Locomotive DIMENSIONS Locomotive length: 45 studs Tender length: 25 studs Total length: 70 studs Height: 9 bricks 7 wide Details To be a complete MOC I made some type of cars, 1 Closed boxcar, 5 open coal cars, and one caboose car. Details These 2 axle wagons have a flex hose coupling to be connected and allow Little turn of the axles. Also the coal wagons have an aperture system for the next project. All the pictures in Flickr Album And a little Video: Enjoy it
  9. Hi guys, just finished my latest build after almost year long break from lego. It,s 8x4x4 truck inspired by Mercedes Actros. I know, another truck... But I ordered thouse weels and they seems to be great for trucks in medium scale. Features: 4x2 Drive by L motor 4x2 Steering by servo motor with different angle (great turning radius) Manual 2 speed gearbox Openable doors Liftable cabin I would like to build more trucks in this scale! Any suggestions, what to build? I was thiking cherry picker or dumper for start? I will propably also create LDD model if anyone interested? PS: Sorry for photo quality...
  10. HI to all! the video itself explain all I want to say about the difference between the same ratio obtained with worm gears or with normal gears, the first are really useful in lego and allow to build really particular stuff, but.. they have a lot of friction. i was really surprised from how much difference there is in the power output of the two mechanism, and it is directly proportional to the force the system has to generate: i test them with an !kg weight, and while my version works fine, the worm geared-one fail to lift it! thank you for watching, hope that this video will help someone of you to make better mocs!
  11. I would like to present my motorized and remote controlled (IR) version of this year's Monster Truck set (42005). My first goal was to keep the overall look and dimensions the same as the official model: The wheels, chassis and body are in the same positions, Only the axles, inner workings, and battery box have changed. My second goal was to somehow get the vehicle to have both steering and 4WD: As you can see above, I achieved the steering by making the entire front and rear axles turn via the use of gear racks and 6L links, while the drive goes through the ball joints, differentials, and portal hubs. Steering is handled by a PF Servo Motor, while drive is handled by a PF L motor. It is powered by a PF Rechargeable Battery, and a PF IR Receiver V2. My third goal was to increase the vehicles clearance as much as possible: And my last goal was to maintain a good amount of articulation: I had to modify the suspension attachment to allow an extra degree of movement to allow the suspension to operate smoothly. It runs quite well over small obstacles, however it is very top-heavy, so it does roll over quite easily. This isn't helped by the fact that as it turns, it leans outwards (opposite to how a skateboard works). Here are the parts (guts) that I had to remove from the original model: All pictures can be clicked on for larger versions at Brickshelf (once moderated). Here are some more pics: And last but not least, here is a link to the LDraw file: 42005_motorized_monster_truck.mpd Overall I am pleased that I was able to get this motorized given that there was only a small space to work with, and the model is very sturdy. I hope you like my motorized and RC 42005 Monster Truck. Any and all feedback/constructive criticism welcome. Edit: I have submitted this MOC to Rebrickable. Edit: I have created a quick video: Sorry about the audio quality - it was a very windy day!
  12. Hi All. I want introduce You our project. It's Lego Led kit prepared to 42043 Mercedes Actros, just watch what the result is and what I will introduce: As You can see it's controlled by LEGO Power Functions IR Remote Control (item no. 8885). It's supplied by Lego PF Battery Box. There are used two channels, 1ch is used for driving, lights will turn on automatic. 4ch is used to turn on and off programmed Led lights. First I will explain what is happen when you modify your model to be driving by lego PF. 1CHANNEL: When You first time move Your model the parking lights turn on automatic. 1. If You want to turn on right side You have just tu move control button right up to blinked for right. After You turn it blink 3 times and turn off automatic. For the left is, right channel down. 2. For moving forward You move left control button up, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 3. For moving backwards You move left control button down, reversing lights turn on, when leave it stop lights will turn on for few seconds (imitation car brake) 4 CHANNEL: 1. First time left control button up: Parking lights on; Second time left up: Xenon headlights on; Third time left up: Xenon headlights off; Next time: Xenon headlights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 2. First time left control button down: Beacon lights 1 program; Second time left down: Beacon lights 2 program; Third time left down: Beacon lights 3 program; Fourth time left up: Beacon lights 4 program; Fifth time left down: Beacon lights off; Next time left down: Beacon lights 1 program (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 3. First time right control button up: Hazard lights on: Second time right up: Hazard lights off; Next time: Hazard lights on (program is running in loop until reset all 4th function) 4. One time right down: ALL RESET. This is just my idea about what channel, which control button is responsible for some functions. It could be programmed differently, it depends on our mind :D It's not finished, We have to put it in small box, finish the connectors and produce some parts like PF connector. Remember it is IR so the range is not long. Sorry if I made some English Mistakes.
  13. Hello! mocers, I'm back! i just success to it this video I recorded this summer, it is a tournament with three middleweight BOT, you'll find the stats on the first part of the video, but here there is the brickshelf folder if you want to see more pictures of them, enjoy the video and thanks for watching! just some oddity: (ALERT:watch the video first!) BOB (originally named BOBCAT) was built (and driven) by my cousin, he loves to make simple but adamant and overpowered bot and (as said by some info at the end of the video) they are really effective in a sumo arena RIBALTOLANDO was the jocker robot, built by me, but drive by my cousin against SCORPIONE (tracked scorpion) it was a real challenge to build an invertible bot, but it should be really hard to defeat in a real arena (not in a sumo one) its strengths are all visible in the fight against BOB (maybe because I was driving it... hem hem ) SCORPIONE CINGOLATO is the evolved version of wheeled scorpion, but it ends like all my sophisticated bots, it is beautiful and really powerful but not too much realiable. Its main problem is the thermal cut-off of my lipo BB that is a little bit damaged and so the robot stops sometimes when reloading the weapon while tracks are running PS: this video is one of my first on youtube and i changed editor (from iMovie to light works) so due to some difficulties i deleted the whole original audio and replaced it with songs, hope the final work is something good
  14. Hi, I'm wondering if anyone has tried using one of the other PF motors (8883 M-Motor, 8882 XL-Motor or 88003 L-Motor) to power a train, rather than the standard train motor? I'm curious as to which is best for use in trains, as I'd like to do a train where I don't have to rely on the standard train motor. Ideally I wouldn't use the XL Motor, as that looks a bit big to hide in a 6-wide train. I've looked for a thread like this but can't find one. I may have missed it however. Thanks!
  15. Here's another small creation I spend some time on the past few weeks. A small American truck: I had a few wishes before I made this model. - Had to be 7 studs wide. - Had to use these tires, because they are the only tire size I know of that have good looking "truck (double) wheels" for the rear axles and good looking single tires for the front wheels. - Small fake engine - Maximum steering range possible - Steering controlled from the 5th wheel (why will become obvious later) - Openable doors and interior I got this in the model, though some are not the most pretty. Especially the wheelarches at the front are a bit big. First of all, making the wheel arch a full stud lower would touch the wheels. Lowering it half a stud is something I didn't even really look into, because I am getting pretty tired of the "half stud issue" that plagues pretty much all my models The rear part of the wheelarch is that far behind the wheel due to the steering mechanism. There is space to move it 1 stud closer to the front wheel, but I wouldn't know how to fix it in place while still keeping room for the steering rack. Considering I have alot of "old Technic" parts I used some vintage steering solutions for this model combined with modern parts. On the other hand though I do kind of like this wheelarch, because it reminds me of the wheelarches of old cars I could have settled for a smaller steering angle, but I didn't want to. I also had to keep the steering solution low due to the fake L4 engine above it A known concept for a small engine that I crammed in here. The hood is open for 2 reasons: I like to see stuff moving and because the hood would otherwise be too high for the model. I tried to mimic a curved top on the hood by have it go from 2 to 3 studs. I did have a desire to make a openable hood, but I couldn't figure out a way to make that structurally sound. Openable doors and an interior. The chairs are actually linked to the red triangular half liftarms on the outside keeping them (and the chairs) at that angle. The belly shot, which also provides another look at the steering That 8T gear is actually connected to a 16T idler gear on the steering axle to transfer it to another 8T gear going to the L4 engine. The truck is only driven from the 2 left rear wheels, since I can't fit a diff in this scale I figured this was the next best thing to still keep a nice steering angle. As you can see the outer ring of the small turntable, the "5th wheel", is connected to a black bevel gear which controls the steering. The reason for the axle in the centre of the small turntable is for the trailer. The trailer is a loaded with liftarms, that's partially because I only had 2x 3x11 panels from my 42029 and because of the white line on the truck which I continued on the trailer. The white line on the truck was actually an afterthought. The truck was completely red before, but that looked rather dull imo so messing around with some lines I decided this pattern on the truck was a nice break from all the red. This isn't just a trailer. This is a trailer that gives the truck RC possibilties. This was another wish I had for the model. I wanted to build a truck that was a non PF model on its own, yet had the option of being remote controlled with a trailer. The small turntable was an obvious choice for me because with that the truck on its own looks like it has a pretty decent looking 5th wheel which also allows to be used as a control to steer the vehicle. It also allowed me to have 2 functions (drive and steer) crammed into one spot on the model. I didn't want to see universal joints at the rear of the trailer going to the truck for steering, because that has been done and I don't like the look of that, so it had to go through the 5th wheel. The black bevel gear at the front of the trailer is to secure the steering of the 8T gear. Of course the trailer turns as well, but since steering is done with a M motor you're basically "re-adjusting" steering every step of the turn. The length of the trailer is based on what "felt right". This meant that I had plenty of space in the trailer for all the stuff. I got pretty lazy and just used some universal joints to link the motors I also made a very small video of the model (battery of phone ran out ) I couldn't make a video of the model going in reverse. It does some gear grinding then. Something I can't seem to really fix, because Lego decided to make a square hole in the small turntable instead of a round one, which I could have used to secure that drive axle on the 2.5 stud high rear chassis some more. Considering I don't like driving it in reverse anyway (I am not a master of turning with a trailer ), I am just going to leave it.
  16. 42029 Lego Technic Customized Pickup Truck in highly modified form. Features include ultra-firm dual independent suspension. Motorized with Power Functions.
  17. bjorkan

    Ultra Agents Train (MOC)

    Hi, Lego train lovers, this is, to the best of my knowledge, the first and only Ultra Agents (UA) Lego train, fully functional using Lego PF system. My grandchildren Laura & Filip and me adore UA sets (just discontinued this year, unfortunately) although they were not easily accessible in EU but somehow we found several sets. So we started playing from train cars and after three of them the engine to power the train was needed. The idea for perfect locomotive was found in the article on The Maglev Technological Revolution on the web pages ( where futuristic trains are illustrated by Ferdinand D. Ladera from DigitalHadz (second in the upper illustration on web page; I tried to contact Mr. Ladera by all possible e-addresses and networks but with no answer). Of course, our train model is not levitating as maglev one, it is using typical Lego train wheels. And here it is, the whole UA train (pictures with link to HR photo): (, and UA locomotive itself (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) and (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg), with Solomon Blaze’s hologram as a driver (lightened inside). There is (futuristic, of course) front door entrance to the engine (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) and when fully opened, you can see Trey Swift in inspection on anybody trying to enter the train. (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). From the back, Steve Zeal is appointed as a security guard (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). First UA train car (from right to the left from the first photo above) is one having anesthetic gas chamber with fully asleep most dangerous villains Sharx and Terabyte, including Sharx’s dangerous remote controlled shark (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). Second UA car is for prisoners (Toxikita, Invizable, Electrolyzer, and Antimatter) in chains and carefully observed by Mrs. Hydron and Max Burnes, (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) while Jack Fury is inside his shuttle (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). And the third UA car has secret chamber UAM/003 (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg) with Caila Phoenix on armory when fully opened (can rotate and shoot to any direction) (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg), and with Jack Fury’s twin brother in hyper vehicle and real Solomon Blaze in his headquarter with communication equipment to contact other UA officers (http://www.bricksafe...g/1920x1440.jpg). Short YT video is attached, as well ( ). Hope you like the train as much as we do. The next that we are just preparing to do is UA Train Station, of course. We will not be discontinued that easy. , &
  18. I've successfully completed my first 7-wide locomotive! Power is provided by two PF train motors, which are attached to the frame via Technic plates. The first version of this design was used at my LUG's display this year, but I changed up the internals quite dramatically based on performance issues; namely, it was very slow and couldn't keep up with standard 9v trains, and kept jumping off the track at the curves. The overall looks were improved drastically as well, in my opinion. I'm quite pleased with how this turned out, and I hope to build more locomotives in this style in the future!
  19. M_slug357

    Design Contest Proposition

    Hi all, I've been doing a bit of brainstorming about what to do concerning the current state of affairs for trains on Lego Ideas, and while I am currently working on a couple different solutions of my own, I finally landed on an idea that would include all of you as well. A bit of friendly competition, all towards a common goal: a better/more appealing train set offering for Lego fans. So, I am proposing we start a set design contest here on Eurobricks!! (maybe even get it up on the front page?) The Parameters: -A complete train set, not a standalone car, engine, or track-side structure. Generally an engine, 2-3 rolling stock, and one structure. -A 1000 parts count maximum, which must include necessary PF elements and at least 20 pieces of track (standard oval). -A self-contained engine, meaning no rolling stock can carry necessary PF elements. -At least 2-3 "play features", not including the operation of the train itself. -At least one alternate build. (Alternate models do not have to meet the same requirements as the primary model) -Must use parts currently in production, however new/different colors of said parts can be used. Some Suggestions: -Come up with a few stories about what the minifigs included in the set could and would be doing. -Try to avoid using generic flat cars and wimpy helicopters. -Use 1-2 rare/unique colors that haven't appeared in a train set yet, like azure, purple, dark red, etc. -Try not to make your train too regionally specific by using road names such as GWR, LNER, UP, CN, etc. Color schemes may be mimicked though. -Develop a play feature that hasn't been used in a train set before. -Try to have each element of the set be as interesting on its own as it is with the rest of the set. I'm not sure how much time should be given to a contest like this, but I'd reckon about 30-90 days would be about right? Then, about 2-4 weeks for voting? The top 3-5 projects (depending on the amount of participants) could then be refined a bit before submitting to Lego Ideas. If this contest receives frontpage support, maybe some prizes could be awarded to the top finalists...? Let me know your thoughts on my proposition, and also who I need to contact to make this happen! Thanks for your time, ~M_Slug~
  20. Rail Co

    [MOC] 90-Degree Crosstrack

    Hello all fellow train folks, today I have another MOC but it isn't a train, it is a track piece that we haven't been able to get in 10 years. Here it is more info to follow. 1). It has to be the same size as previous tracks. 2). It would need to use minimal parts and be easy to construct. 3). It would need to be as quiet as possible or be as quiet as standard Lego tracks when the train rolls over it. 4). It would have to be stable and would not fall apart in use. I hope you all enjoy my MOC and this track piece. I you feel inclined constructive criticism is always welcome! If you thought It was brilliant you can support it here:
  21. Hi all EuroBrick members. More News: A new and extended video is uploaded, for a better view on the functionality of the model. See below in this message: And even more news: Pics with original logos from ROPA. See below in this message: I guess its time for me to go public with a little MOC i have been working on the last 3 winters. I have come so far with it, that it is time for your competent and critical eyes to see it. My MOC is inspired by my work as a farmer in the southern Denmark, where sugar beets are a big crop, with a huge influence on the whole area, concerning jobs, and manufacturing sugar. This is a selfpropelled sugarbeet harvester, Ropa euroTiger V8-4 XL See here for more info on the original: XL is an description, for a 9 row harvester, where a transport wagon belongs to the lifting and leaf topping unit. We don't have a 9 row harvester here in Denmark as far as i know, but the XL model is mainly sold in the Eastern Europe, Russia and Northern America. My sugar beets are harvested by a contracter, who has a 6 row harvester. My model is in approximate scale 1:15 til 1:13 Specifications: Transportposition with transportwagon: Working Position Length: 141 cm Length 94 cm Width: 23 cm Width 29 cm Height: 30 cm Heigth: 38 cm Weight 8,4 kg The model is equipped with following electric components: 5 IR recievers, attached to 4 batteryboxes, with Lithium Ion batteries, for longer durability, and less weight. Engines for lifting and cleaning: 1 L-Motor to drive the lifting unit and leaf topper, 1 M-Motor to drive the conveying belt under the front axle, roulettes, og and the conveying belt around the machinen. 1 Micro motor to drive the auger in the beet tank. Is controlled by a speedcontroller, for variable speed. Motors for driving momentum: 2 XL motors for 1. og 2. axle 1 L- motor for 3. axle. Controlled through two separate IR recievers, each connected to two different batteryboxes, to avoid the overheating of the fuse in the batteybox. A speed controller is controlling the speed. Motors for steering: 1 M-motor for the articulated steering in front. 1 servomotor for the 2 rear axles, controlled by a speed controller, so the steering point kan be hold permanent in steps. Normal steering left and right, and dogwalk is options, like the original. Motors for folding/ unfolding the unloading elevator: 1 M- motor for folding/ unfolding the outer part of the elevator. 2 M-motors for lifting/ lowering the elevator. Conveyors: 1 L-Motor to drive the two conveyors in the beet tank, and the conveyor on the elevator. Engine hausing: 1 L- motor for driving the 4 double pneumatic pump, and the impotant V8'er. 1 servomotor for controlling a pneumatic valve, to lift/lowering the lifting unit in front. Light so far: 4x2 PF Light at the top of the cabin 1x2 PF Light in the front 1x2 PF Light at the back of the harvester. 1X2 PF light at the back of the transport wagon. Additional ligtht is planned when the LUG bulk order arrives, 9x2 PF light around the machine for work light. There are two normal IR- controllers, and two IR speed controllers, to control the big show: Pneumatic System: There is a pressure controlled switch, that stops the motor activating the pneumatic pump, when the pressure level reach a certain level. There is also three manuel Pneumatic valves: One to lift the leaf topper, making it able to hang on the transport wagon. One to lift/ lowering the conveying belt around the machine, from transport to working positiontank One to lift and lowering the safety guard, on both side of the conveying belt, and the auger in the beet I have uploaded HD pics on Try the Link http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=526354 Breaking News: Video of the Machinery More news: Extended video. Even More news: Pics with original logos from Ropa: A special varm thanks, to my sweet wife, who has filmed and edited these videos. All the best from BondemandClausen. :-)
  22. All of a sudden while at work, this idea came to me and I got so interested. Objectives: Bus as 42008 C Model Good looking as much as I can include bus details as much as I can pneumatic door and baggage driven by pump compressor motorized drive as a 3rd function (what else a bus has to offer?) manual steering easily removable battery Parts: approximately 930 parts out of 1276 Build time: around 3 weeks Limitations C Model, hence no parts outside 42008 allowed 42008 presents the folloing challenges: not enough lift arms to build a floor in the passenger area managing the available quantities of Green and Red beams to build the bus body and make a good choice where green and where red goes. weak pneumatics I'm new and this is my 1st serious try, I only built 42008 before this. In general I'm satisfied by the end product. Next are things I think could be better: hiding the pneumatic hoses, got lazy at that. sliding baggage door, (couldn't figure out how to do that) more sturdy/smooth steering two doors rather than one using the white gear I may try to enhance this later (as a free MOC), but for now I will go to build some car sets to learn more about vehicle functions. I will start with 42029. Thank you for having a look. Remaining parts (around 340)
  23. Hi! Wanted to share my latest RC car. So here it goes: Built for fun and for use in Latlug events. I used Nico71 Honda Civic chassis as a base, small modifications here and there (different placement of shock absorbers, reinforced servo motor with more brackets). The goal was to make something similar to Mark 1 VW Golf GTI Hope you like it :) More pictures here
  24. zephyr1934

    MOC Pioneer Zephyr

    [ MOC gallery] I am proud to present my take on the small train that was the first modern streamliner. Built in 1934, numbered 9900 and originally simply called the Zephyr (the last name in passenger comfort). After its success it was quickly joined by many more Zephyr's and was soon renamed the Pioneer Zephyr. There are many great articles on this historic train, e.g., here (note the PDF schematics that were incredibly helpful); here; and here. The Zephyr was the first lightweight train set, the first (or one of the first?) diesel electric powered trains, and the first stainless steel train. It was small and light, consisting of a motorcar that was a combination engine and RPO, then a combined express/coach, and a coach observation car. The entire train was articulated, with shared trucks between each pair of cars. I sought to reproduce the as delivered version of the train set. Several substantial changes were made over the first few years of the train's long life, including the addition of a 4th car (or 3rd car if you consider the motorcar a locomotive) and a large Mars light on the front and rear of the train. As such, my model might differ in appearance from many photos of the train after the changes were made. The train has been restored and is on display at the Museum of Science and Industry in Chicago, IL, USA. Another three of these train sets were built for the Burlington route, and the nearly identical Flying Yankee for the B&M. But enough history for now, first a quick image of the train itself, Look at all of those round curves... The nose was a challenge- how to get the rounded and sloped front. The above photo shows my solution. I would have liked to have gotten a little more slope, maybe one plate where I'm currently using half plate steps, but that would have only worked if there were curved sloped bricks of just the right shape/size. I was pleased with how well I was able to capture the distinctive air vents above the cab (including the small gap between the two vents, with room for the headlight), and also how I was able to get the right topographical shape from the rectangular slope bricks for the transition from the front to the top curves. At the end of the engine compartment is an abrupt narrowing and slow drop in height (again at half plate tall steps) to the roof of the cars. The photo also shows the IR receiver not so eloquently hidden. Some of the other shots show a "cap" built over the receiver. That was for the show this past weekend (which I'll post more about after uploading photos), and at this show, 10 ft away from where my trains were running, there were four stations for kids to run lego city train sets, with IR controllers and all. The cap blocked most of the IR, but you could still operate the train from 2 ft away. With that success, I rebuilt it again this morning and put the IR receiver completely under the 1x3 curved slopes so that it is now completely hidden. Again, it will hear the IR receiver from 2 ft away. I'll post photos of that update soon, but that will send the entire folder back for Brick Shelf moderation and I don't want to do that right now. Below the car you can see the skirting on the powered truck and along the body. This feature of the prototype also made it easy to hide a black PF train motor while blending it in with the model (similarly on the trucks, using standard PF train wheels in black, but more on that in a moment). Also of note are the doors with a half plate recess, the brick built mail catch, and custom decals using fonts from The above shot shows a side view of the motorcar. The stark light does not do the step down in the roof justice. It looks much better with overhead lighting (as seen in some of the other shots). The above thumbnails show how I did the connections between cars. As noted above, the skirting on the wheels covers plain black PF train wheel sets. I got the idea for the 4x4 curves for the diaphragms from Swoofty's SP cars. The configuration in the photos is designed to run on R88 or better curves. The lenght of the cars lead to too extreme swings on R44 curves and the outer corners will knock together. However, with a quick rebuild of the trucks to add one stud separation, she will run fine on R44 tracks. Here is the middle car. The doors were another challenge to get the half plate offset with the profile bricks, and then quick turn from studs up to studs sideways. All sorts of fast brickwork in the intervening 6 stud width of the train. Needless to say, my brain is still hurting a bit from all of the hoops to get the offsets working. Although none of the photos show it, the coach windows offer a clear view across the train. Here's a shot of the observation car. More half plate offset doors, skirting, etc. The rounded observation end was another challenge... ... I started with my basic design from the North Coast Limited. I made a few quick improvements- the NCL had 1 brick tall windows on the sides and so I had to make the observation windows either 2.5 plates tall or 5 plates tall. The Pioneer Zephyr has 5 plate tall windows to help emphasize the small size of the prototype, which then made the transition to the snotted windows on the curved section a lot easier. But I also faced a challenge. The NCL uses a curved winshield to transition from the 1x3 curved bricks of the roof to the curves of the rear of the train. I did not have enough height to fit that same piece on the Zephyr. So I wound up using a wedge plate design to again capture the topographical form of the curved section. It works from a distance at least. Here's a shot of the train from the inside of a R108 curve... ... and a shot at speed at the show this past weekend. Note the bulb over the IR receiver (which as noted above, has since been smoothed over and the IR receiver can no longer be seen from the outside (I'll post those photos in a week or two). If that isn't enough, you can find more photos here in the full gallery. Comments, questions, suggestions, etc. are welcome...
  25. Tonight I've modified my Horizon Express, to fit two rechargable battery boxes, two IR receivers, and two motors into one cab. It's rather heavy now... I do still need to put a #8869 Polarity Switch in there though, to get the motors running in the same direction. (I don't have one yet). It'll be a tight fit, but I'm pretty confident it'll go in. I had to pretty much gut the interior of the train in order to fit everything in. Although the outside looks superficially similar, it's actually quite different in places. Can you spot the changes?