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Found 147 results

  1. Reker1000000

    Favorite/most iconic trains?

    Just out of curiosity... What do you think are the most iconic train sets? And, what are your favorite sets? I think we will see a lot of the same answers, hah. For me, I think the most iconic trains are: 1. 7740 2. Metroliner and my favorite is my far the 7740, I think the 12v system was the best system there is so far.
  2. For a while now I've been working on creating replacement axel holders for lego train wheels. It all started when I got back into the hobby and ran out of train wheels. Looking around my local area (Australia, Queensland) the 1 or 2 clubs that used to be around disappeared so there wasn't anyone I could trade or buy them off. I then remembered brick link but I couldn't get the cost down to below $5-8 pre-unit shipped. When you want 100 or 50 or 24 of the $8-5 a peace starts getting really expensive. I then tried to order them from lego but they weren't shipping bricks and peace due to the outbreak. Shortly after trying to order directly from lego, they also discontinued the part I wanted. So a few months of design later, I now have a number of wheel axle configurations. I printed the last prototypes this week and I was a little surprised that they felt smoother than the official ones. Although having said that my existing lego wheels are all 9V or RC so they are really old. I have a version with no sides, a version that is designed to imitate the existing one from lego and one that has studs on the side that is primarily for snot builds (8/9/10 wide). I'm now moving into a phase where I'd be sending them out to an ABS plastic print farm because they take between an hour and 1hr+45min to print. Initially, I wasn't going to sell them but I was wondering if there might be a demand? If there was a demand what colours other than back people might be interested in? Other Questions Welcome.
  3. Two great trains are dueling on 12v gray track: the British Railways HST 125 vs the Deutsche Bahn BR403 "Donald Duck"! Two big countries with high expertise on trains,two different power sources (Diesel vs Electric), same speed (above 200km/h or 125mph). Who will win this Lego contest? None of them, since they both are built on the same Lego platform and shape - I created first the "Donald Duck" in Lufthansa colors and then I modified it a little to recall the HST125. So same power cars ,and same wagons, only with a different paint scheme . I've always focused on standard trains, and this is my first experiment with fast ones. After all , during "gray Era" we've seen a lot of steamers, diesels, electric trains...but only one example of fast train. So here's a shot of the DB403, with an applied sticker on front "window" to simulate double windscreens... ...and one of the "Screaming Valenta" - here the sticker is a bit different, but you can easily tell it is only a bigger one! Both are using parts available in the last years of "Gray Era" (so they could have been made starting from 1987). The HST could be a bit older than the 403 - since it's using the old style blue window in the cabin. I could also recreate a yellow sticker to cover the outer part of the trans-clear headlight, but I preferred to keep it as it is (just imagine the sticker detaching when the glue is old...I HATE that sensation ) Both could have working headlights, the DB403 can use a 12v light brick on top headlight. For the HST125 the problem is how to diffuse light from light brick to transparent slopes. But both trains could also leverage on 9V lights, which were already available at the time. The 9v Battery box fits easily in both bodies. Finally the 7745 has some internal competition!!! Hope you like these two! Ciao! Davide
  4. thic_trains

    Narrow gauge motor system

    Hello, I'm a huge train fan and have a section in my city where I have e a narrow gauge. Does anyone have a File or instruction file for a chassis? I really need one as I am very bad with the technic system. also, If you want, just send me a pic of the underside. I will figure it out from there.
  5. Hello everybody, I'm starting this topic because I want to start automating my Lego Train layout. I am new to this so I have questions you might have the answer to and with that I hope this topic will help other newbies in the future. For starting off I'm thinking of buying: 1 arduino mega 2560. To control everything. 2 L298n modules to control 4 pf motors, for as many track switches. 6 (or more) lm393 lightsensetive optical sensors for train detection. 1 HC05 bluetooth module for communication with bluetooth devices. I think I am all set for hardware. Maybe a 12v powerline to power the L298n's. I have two powered up trains, which I hope to be able to control with the arduino too, didn't find anything about it yet (didn't look hard either though). Is this the right way to go Or do I miss something? Thank for you help.
  6. Coal Fired Bricks

    Brick Train Awards: The Entries Gallery

    There were 738(I think) entries into the Brick Train Awards but we only saw about 50 of them. There have been questions on Facebook weather they were going to post all of the entries and the answer was sadly no. So here I would like to see the entries you the reader submitted into the brick train awards. So please post some of your entries here so we can see them in all of their glory. You can post as many entries of your you would like. 6 or less photos of the model and one video are allowed and one photo of the prototype if you want(this is what was done for the BTA's) and please if you decide to post don't go on rambling about why you didn't win and be a sore loser but don't brag if you won. Lastly please say kind thing about other entries if you want to. Here is my entity.
  7. ElectroDiva

    2018 Lego Trains

    I think it's high time we started a 2018 Lego Trains thread after a pretty disappointing 2017. 2018 has to be an improvement right? Quite a few people seem to believe that there is a "pattern" to the City train releases and according to this pattern we should expect a new Passenger Train, Cargo Train and Train Station in 2018. @Duq explained the pattern very well on the 2017 Trains thread. In addition to these expected releases, there is also a rumour that the next modular building could be a central train station. Personally I find that a bit hard to believe but you never know!
  8. Hi all, It’s been quite a while since I contributed to the forum, nice to see it’s still so active! Ambridge & Paxley (few more photos, a track plan, and a video of the layout on this page) was a new type of display for me - an 18ft long end-to-end railway, with a station at either end, and connected by a single line. We usually run looped track which requires less effort to run during shows. It is also only 48 studs deep - I wanted to see what I could achieve with a much narrow scenery depth than I’d usually start with. The layout is based on a fictional rural branch line, with Ambridge being the terminus station and Paxley a through station (in future - it was a terminus for the purpose of its first show earlier this year). All of my station/display names are taken from villages and towns in the BBC’s “The Archers”, a long-running radio serial here in the UK. Between the station sits a small valley, home to the River Am and Ambridge Cricket Club.
  9. Phil B

    MOC: TTX well cars

    Using part 87058 in black as a base, I built two sets of 2 articulated TTX well cars. Loaded them with a custom container design I published on Rebrickable last month, which uses the profile brick (1x2 and 1x4) as the base for the walls - seems to give the right corrugated steel look. Decals are from OKBrickWorks. Looking at the pictures I might need to raise the end trucks/bogies by a plate - did notice this all the time I ran them on my tracks, but on the pictures it seems the cars are not fully level. TTX Well Car with Containers by Phil B, on Flickr
  10. This is my MOC of a Transperth B series Electrical Multiple Units using Bricklink Studio Lego designer. This train MOC is of the same name based of the real version that is currently in operation in Perth, Western Australia. I'm still creating it's instructions. I will eventually buy the bricks from online (Bricklink), Pfx bricks for realism and showcase it. I hope you will like it.
  11. Hey there, I wonder if anyone is interested in seeing smaller and or bigger Lego engine pieces. You know those light bluish grey engine block pieces, connecting rods and yellow piston pieces? Smaller and bigger versions of those. Smaller versions can be used to put inside a moc built locomotive, boat or possibly a semi or even pneumatic engines. Bigger ones could be used for huge ships or pneumatic engines. So what do you guys think about this? I could design these things and open a bricklink store for you to buy. Let me know, I think it's a useful idea...
  12. Adam Badura

    Duplo Trains discussion

    After spending lots of time playing LEGO Duplo (mostly trains) with my kids and also building some larger layouts myself I got few questions regarding (mostly) design of Duplo tracks. I asked them at Polish LUGPol forum but some were not answered (it seems LEGO Duplo is not popular enough) so I’m reposting them here hoping for larger audience and thus better answers. I believe that LEGO parts (which includes Duplo tracks...) are done carefully and decisions are unlikely taken without evaluating many issues. So the radius used for curved tracks must have some reasons behind it. I don’t know which and I would very much like to know. Since I already know much of troubles caused by that choice. Read further. (1) Curved Tracks Radius A single Duplo curved track spans on a 30° angle. Three such tracks make a right angle. But the simple staff ends here. Ever tried to connect the ends of such right angle with Duplo bricks? It failed, didn’t it? You could actually make it but that would require to strain those tracks a bit (they are significantly flexible so it doesn’t require any strength nor does it seem to make any breaking risks). If you would do that with a hole circle of 12 curved tracks you would not get a circle but an ellipse with short radius of 17 Duplo studs and long radius of 18 Duplo studs. The actual radius of a circle is somewhere around 17.5 Duplo studs. It might be aligned with LEGO studs, I haven’t checked that but I doubt it. This might seem insignificant especially that the tracks are strained so little that it is not visible to someone who “doesn’t know”. But still this is some disadvantage that shows when you try to build something bigger or mount everything on a single solid base (possibly done with plates). Since the strains add up and things start to fall apart easily. (2) Curved Tracks Alignment to Straight Tracks So I looked further wondering to what the curved tracks align well. Sadly without success. Another failed example is when you connect two curved tracks in opposite direction. That way the lines entering and leaving the two tracks are parallel. Its tempting to see if you can mount it on a plate. But as it shows again it is not possible. Such a connection of tracks does not align well with Duplo studs (and thus also straight tracks...). (3) Long Trains In my experience a train having two or three railcars significantly slows down on longer curves. The cars are long and wheels don’t turn around in no way which means that the do no align well with curved track and cause some friction. With more railcars you can see how the train slows down and sometimes even hear that. With four or more railcars its nearly sure the train will stop on a longer curve. Would the curve track have a larger radius this issue would be (somewhat) smaller. Now knowing the drawbacks of current curved track design we might wonder what are its advantages so that the trade off goes well. Anyone? And this is still not end to the questions. (4) Move Direction Why current locomotives do move in only one direction? Would changing the button to a three state switch (forward, stop, backward) make it much more expensive? Or would it be much more difficult for kids? Current sets with locomotives are from 2 years. How it was with the old “smart locomotive”? As I think it was far more “difficult” and “complex”. (5) Locomotive Anchors I find it rather odd that (current) Duplo locomotives don’t have anchors on both sides as all railcars do. This way making the locomotive push the train rather than pull is rather difficult and likely to cause derailment when using more complex layouts (like ups and downs or junctions). (6) Corrugation (I’m not sure if this is the correct word for it) Tracks and the engine wheels of the locomotive are corrugated. Why is this needed? As it seems LEGO trains don’t use it. So why Duplo trains need it? Any “rational” for those? And as a final question. (7) Does LEGO provide precise specification of their “bricks”? Like exact dimensions and sizes or power of motors and so on?
  13. Last train show I came unprepared and didn't have AAA batteries, I used instead 8881 battery box (that use 6 AA batteries) The train managed to run on the same 6 normal Duracell batteries for 2 days (75% of the time each day) Has anyone used the big battery box 8881 with PF trains? if so what are your thoughts about it? I kinda liked how well the train lasted and I am considering keeping this setup.
  14. Terry Akuna

    Lego MOC Wooden Gondola

    My first try at building a wooden gondola. I'll build a few more versions before I go into production for my layout.
  15. Video from the yearly model railroad exhibition in the danish city of Helsingør earlier this month. The LEGO contribution was done by our new (and smallish) train club, Togklodsen. Unfortunately I couldn’t participate but a lot of my trains did A rather spectacular crash occurs around the 12 minute mark
  16. Terry Akuna

    Unit Train Indexer

    Unit Train Indexer use to position the cars in a Rotary Dump. Unit Train Indexer (Car Positioner) by Terry Akuna, on Flickr Indexer_Video by Terry Akuna, on Flickr
  17. Terry Akuna


    Functional Ramp and Autorack which can fit up to 6 Speed Champion cars. 65x10 Studs. Autorack_And_Ramp_06 by Terry Akuna, on FlickrAutorack_And_Ramp_01 by Terry Akuna, on Flickr
  18. What would you like to see me do to my Casey Jr. project to encourage more supporters? What can I change, and where can I do better?
  19. I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : Step 4. Take out the inner part : Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
  20. One of the policies within Sioux.NET on Track, is to change a build every three years. In other words, when a build has been part of a Lego World demo for three years, it should be replaced by a new one. For example, loading the train was first done by the container crane, now it is done by the delta crane. The same applies for the train: the first years, we controlled the train by an NXT, now it is controlled by an EV3. For the new layout, I am thinking of replacing the train by a monorail (and thus renaming the group to "Sioux.NET on Monotrack" ;-). I always use Youtube as inspiration. To see how others solved the typical problems you run into when building something. But I haven't seen a Lego Mindstorms monorail yet. The Lego Technic monorail created by "Osi" (click here for an example) is most nearby for what I have in mind, but it is not using Mindstorms inside. In other words, I will have to use my own imagination. What a pity ;-) I started with creating the track. This was my first attempt: Although it looks good (I was aiming at an open, industrial look), the curve is not smooth enough for a train: So, I made a second attempt: That looks much better. It was not easy to get the curve smooth AND find a brick with the right distance. This is how I managed to get this curve: A simple train (only proof of concept until now), runs easy through the curve: The next days I will continue building a motorized train (proto). Let me know what you think so far Merry Christmas! Regards, Hans
  21. Trekkie99

    [MOC] Midi Scale Trains

    I built this for my "Midiopolis" topic over in the Town forum, but I decided to mention it here as well. The wheels are part number 38799 which at the moment is only made in white and is decorated for use as a tea cup saucer for a Harry Potter minifig. Midiscale BR Class 08 Shunter Midiscale BNSF 2099 Locomotive Midiscale Small Oil Tanker Midiscale Chicago Metra Cheers.
  22. After many years of dreams, reflections, planning (starting Winter 2011/12), testing (starting fall 2013) and finally building (starting spring 2014), this project has finally crossed the finish line - probably one of the world's most extreme and most challenging layouts for Lego Train 9V! An indescribable feeling, great satisfaction and relief - and what a fantastic experience! First some introductory remarks: This is not a "usual" but rather a conceptual layout with analogue power supply and -management, without landscapes and buildings (except one train station). A particularly sophisticated construction with four themes: a one-track vertical climb, two double-track climbing spirales, a double-track high-level track 2.16 m above floor level and a rail yard. The layout is intended for Lego trains equipped with standard Lego 9V train engines. It is built with standard Lego 9V rails and points, some of which are modified. So are all four 9V Train Speed Regulators. With the help of points, the layout can be segmented into four sections (Loop A - D) which make it possible to run four trains simultaneously, independent of each other, with up to ten engines each. However, this requires more hands... To avoid/prevent spontaneous decoupling, all my trains are equipped with super magnets. I also would like to take this opportunity and thank all of you who have contributed with support, valuable advice, and encouragement during all these years. Without all this help, this project would have remained just a dream. And this is how it looks like: More pictures, facts and videos will be added to the first entry of this thread Addendum # 1: Technical Data and Details: Track lengths: Total track length (incl.sidings and dead-ends): approx. 173 m Total "Tour" length (from start to start): approx. 105 m Loop A (High-level track 1/High-speed track): approx. 32 m Loop B (High-level track 2): approx. 29 m Loop C (Climbing-wall from level 85 to traverse on level 175): approx. 46 m Loop D (Level 50 and level 85): approx. 21 m Rails: 949 straight, 263 curved and 37 modified (4, 8, 10 and 12 straight) Points: 13 standard points (whereof 3 are operated electrically) 6 crossover points (4) 11 half-curve points (1) Track Design Program: Track Designer Application (R) version 2.0 by Matthew D. Bates (Matt's LEGO (R) Train Depot) Electrics/Electronics: 1 Power Supply Unit VOLTCRAFT EP-925, 3-15 V(DC), max. 25A 4 modified Train Speed Regulators (4548) with LM350T regulators, 3A diodes, outside heatsinks (with a thermal resistance of 1.9 K/W), mini-fans and digital thermometers to measure temperatures inside the boxes 4 Control-boxes to operate 12 points electrically. The boxes are equipped with "memory-sticks" to memorize the position of each point since these are out of reach and sight. 12 PF Medium engines mounted on the electrically operated points 52 Power connections to rails 1 Control-box to selectively turn on/turn off 11 power connections Approximately 1000 m cable whereof approx. 850 m RK cable 1.5 square mm Märklin pins and sleeves 1 LED strand (4 m) with dimmer 1 IR-thermometer to measure heatsink temperatures Construction: 7 levels: Rail yard level (50 cm above floor level) Train station level (85) U-curve level 1 (115) U-curve level 2 (145) U-curve level 3 (175) Eaves level (195) Top-level (216) Max. gradient: 83 per thousand (The gradients are built in such a way that all trains can manage to get uphill and downhill with adhesion, i.e. without cogwheels). Min. clearance: approx. 12 cm Train shelves: Shelf system: Algot (IKEA) 15 train shelves type A (102x11x1.6 cm), 8 straight/shelf 27 train shelves type B (166x11x2 cm), 13 straight/shelf 12 train shelves type C (217x11x2 cm), 17 straight/shelf all train shelves are strengthened with 22x45 mm wood strips All in all 54 train shelves with a total length of 86 m (678 straight) and 108 railway buffers 2 "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys (Algot) Room dimensions: 5.5 x 7.3 m Occupied floor space (incl. train shelves): approx. 9 square m Construction materials: Wood (45x45 mm) and wood strips (22x42 mm) MDF boards (6 and 10 mm) Glass shelves (6 mm) Polycarbonate strips (3 mm) and rivets Cable conduits Steel cords (3 mm) with wire locks Perforated plates and angle irons Cable ditches and cabling towards cable terminal Cable terminal Power supply unit and cable terminal box Control center Addendum # 2: More pictures with some of my MOCs Glacier Express with Matterhorn in the background Trans Europ Express (TEE) "Rheingold" and TEE-VT 11.5 in alpine environment Swiss "Crocodile" (10183) with heavy RhB cargo transport in the steepest part of the entire track - a gradient of 83 permille! "Uppsalapendeln" in the midst of the Swiss Alps - imagine if this were for real .... Emerald Night on its way up to the mountains Track Cleaning Train at Knivsta Station - ready for new missions Track Maintenance Train on its way for a new mission Addendum #2A: Train shelves "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys with two Maersk and one TTX Train section(s) ready for transit Addendum #3: Videos
  23. Stephanix


    Hi My name is Stephan Niks from the Netherlands and new here. At the moment very busy. but in the near future I will post my designs here for discussion My interest: trains, modulars and LEGO ideas
  24. Hello, I'm creating this write-up to share my experience buying and operating a set of old 12v track in the US. I had been wanting some 12v track and motors since I was in middle school (and I'm in college right now, so yes my tastes in Lego have always been old and expensive haha) but hadn't found the right lot until about a week ago. I managed to score the following lot on ebay for a good price: It is a decent amount of stuff, but some key things are missing: motor (the blue one in picture is 4.5v and doesn't work), transformer, and the piece for connecting to the track. My goal was to have an operating train for as cheaply as possible. Hopefully these ideas can help someone else out who wants to make use of older track without spending a fortune. FOR PURISTS: I handled all of these missing components in an unorthodox way that includes modification of vintage parts, so consider yourself warned Motor: Instead of buying original 12v motors, which are only available for crazy amounts of money on bricklink, I chose to use @bricks n bolts method of picking up track power and using it to drive PF motors ( I know it was a little while ago, but thank you @bricks n bolts for sharing! ) The process of cutting down the pins was pretty straightforward. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make the initial cut and a sanding wheel to finish things up. If anyone attempts to do this, try to keep the pin cool, as I melted the plastic a bit on one of my pick-ups. I also ended up cutting off the curved section of one pick-up, to accommodate for the magnet assembly. Connecting to track: To connect to the track, I simply soldered some wire to the little tabs on the bottom of the rail. The correct part for connecting to these blue rails isn't that expensive on bricklink...if you don't factor in overseas shipping. Transformer: Since I live in the US, using an original transformer would require a converter (I had no luck finding the 110v version on bricklink or ebay). I originally thought of using a model train transformer of some kind, but wasn't sure so I asked here on the train tech. @dr_spock suggested a cheap DC motor controller and a generic 12v DC wall adapter (Thanks! ). This ended up working perfectly, and was quite cheap. Only downside is no reverse, but I'm ok with that for how much I spent. Final Result: With everything together I swapped out one of the motors on my Powered Boxcar ( with the completed pick-up bogie and turned on the speed controller. It worked perfectly! I now have a functioning 12v loop that powers my newer trains! I do however have to watch out that I don't over-power the PF stuff. I suppose I could have used a 9v power adapter, but I'm leaving room for a 7740 that I hope will join my collection if I find a good deal ^These last 2 are videos, you just have to click on them There's a few more pictures of this project here if interested: Thanks for looking! Unfinished_Projects