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Found 136 results

  1. Terry Akuna

    Lego MOC Wooden Gondola

    My first try at building a wooden gondola. I'll build a few more versions before I go into production for my layout.
  2. Video from the yearly model railroad exhibition in the danish city of Helsingør earlier this month. The LEGO contribution was done by our new (and smallish) train club, Togklodsen. Unfortunately I couldn’t participate but a lot of my trains did A rather spectacular crash occurs around the 12 minute mark
  3. Terry Akuna

    Unit Train Indexer

    Unit Train Indexer use to position the cars in a Rotary Dump. Unit Train Indexer (Car Positioner) by Terry Akuna, on Flickr Indexer_Video by Terry Akuna, on Flickr
  4. Terry Akuna

    Autorack

    Functional Ramp and Autorack which can fit up to 6 Speed Champion cars. 65x10 Studs. Autorack_And_Ramp_06 by Terry Akuna, on FlickrAutorack_And_Ramp_01 by Terry Akuna, on Flickr
  5. What would you like to see me do to my Casey Jr. project to encourage more supporters? What can I change, and where can I do better? https://ideas.lego.com/projects/8b153541-1956-42b7-bfec-a8f31755bc7e
  6. I had a whole stack of broken 12v light bricks where the bulb had gone. In particular they don't last that long when set in lamp posts. Sick of buying more so needed a way of replacing the bulb with a longer lasting LED. The first difficultly was finding the right LED with a built in resistor so they can run straight off the 12v power supply. I hadn't found 3mm white/clear LEDs before, just coloured ones, but found a supplier here for what I needed. These should also work fine for 9v. Then the other tricky bit was to open up the light brick without breaking it. This wasn't as difficult as I first thought, so here is the guide - no soldering and no glue! The tools used (almost common household items!) excluding the light brick and LED are : 1. A micro-screwdriver. 2. A bent curtain hook. 3. Some sharp nail scissors. Step 1. Using the screwdriver scrape off the plastic tab that helps hold into place the inner part of the light brick : Step 2. Using the holes for the plug as an anchor lever out the inner part of the light brick with the sharp end of the bent curtain hook until you can get under it : Step 3. If the inner part is still not loose rotate the other end of the curtain hook in the space made at the bottom : Step 4. Take out the inner part : Step 5. Use the micro srewdriver to remove the old bulb and contacts until the inner part is clear : Step 6. Throw away the old bulb and wiring and Insert the LED : Step 7. Bend the LED wires around the light brick making sure the LED is centred : Step 8. With the screwdriver continue to bend the LED wires into the plug contact holes : Step 9. Re-insert the metal contacts. This may take some force, but it will be this additional friction which means the removal of the plastic tab earlier doesn't matter : Step 10. Trim off the excess LED wires with the scissors : Step 11. Re-join the central part of the light brick with the cover (remember which way is up!) : Complete! Remember as it's an LED it won't work plugged in either way to the power supply, but that doesn't bother me in the slightest as you just turn the plug around / swap the pins if it doesn't work For train lights where the power will be reversed when you reverse the train I can recommend Janco's light bricks which are superb
  7. Hey there, I wonder if anyone is interested in seeing smaller and or bigger Lego engine pieces. You know those light bluish grey engine block pieces, connecting rods and yellow piston pieces? Smaller and bigger versions of those. Smaller versions can be used to put inside a moc built locomotive, boat or possibly a semi or even pneumatic engines. Bigger ones could be used for huge ships or pneumatic engines. So what do you guys think about this? I could design these things and open a bricklink store for you to buy. Let me know, I think it's a useful idea...
  8. One of the policies within Sioux.NET on Track, is to change a build every three years. In other words, when a build has been part of a Lego World demo for three years, it should be replaced by a new one. For example, loading the train was first done by the container crane, now it is done by the delta crane. The same applies for the train: the first years, we controlled the train by an NXT, now it is controlled by an EV3. For the new layout, I am thinking of replacing the train by a monorail (and thus renaming the group to "Sioux.NET on Monotrack" ;-). I always use Youtube as inspiration. To see how others solved the typical problems you run into when building something. But I haven't seen a Lego Mindstorms monorail yet. The Lego Technic monorail created by "Osi" (click here for an example) is most nearby for what I have in mind, but it is not using Mindstorms inside. In other words, I will have to use my own imagination. What a pity ;-) I started with creating the track. This was my first attempt: Although it looks good (I was aiming at an open, industrial look), the curve is not smooth enough for a train: So, I made a second attempt: That looks much better. It was not easy to get the curve smooth AND find a brick with the right distance. This is how I managed to get this curve: A simple train (only proof of concept until now), runs easy through the curve: The next days I will continue building a motorized train (proto). Let me know what you think so far Merry Christmas! Regards, Hans
  9. I built this for my "Midiopolis" topic over in the Town forum, but I decided to mention it here as well. The wheels are part number 38799 which at the moment is only made in white and is decorated for use as a tea cup saucer for a Harry Potter minifig. Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter Lego Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter by LegoMonorailFan99, on Flickr Lego Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter by LegoMonorailFan99, on Flickr Lego Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter by LegoMonorailFan99, on Flickr Lego Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter by LegoMonorailFan99, on Flickr Lego Midi Scale BR Class 08 Shunter by LegoMonorailFan99, on Flickr Check out the 3D View on Mecabricks! Cheers.
  10. After many years of dreams, reflections, planning (starting Winter 2011/12), testing (starting fall 2013) and finally building (starting spring 2014), this project has finally crossed the finish line - probably one of the world's most extreme and most challenging layouts for Lego Train 9V! An indescribable feeling, great satisfaction and relief - and what a fantastic experience! First some introductory remarks: This is not a "usual" but rather a conceptual layout with analogue power supply and -management, without landscapes and buildings (except one train station). A particularly sophisticated construction with four themes: a one-track vertical climb, two double-track climbing spirales, a double-track high-level track 2.16 m above floor level and a rail yard. The layout is intended for Lego trains equipped with standard Lego 9V train engines. It is built with standard Lego 9V rails and points, some of which are modified. So are all four 9V Train Speed Regulators. With the help of points, the layout can be segmented into four sections (Loop A - D) which make it possible to run four trains simultaneously, independent of each other, with up to ten engines each. However, this requires more hands... To avoid/prevent spontaneous decoupling, all my trains are equipped with super magnets. I also would like to take this opportunity and thank all of you who have contributed with support, valuable advice, and encouragement during all these years. Without all this help, this project would have remained just a dream. And this is how it looks like: More pictures, facts and videos will be added to the first entry of this thread Addendum # 1: Technical Data and Details: Track lengths: Total track length (incl.sidings and dead-ends): approx. 173 m Total "Tour" length (from start to start): approx. 105 m Loop A (High-level track 1/High-speed track): approx. 32 m Loop B (High-level track 2): approx. 29 m Loop C (Climbing-wall from level 85 to traverse on level 175): approx. 46 m Loop D (Level 50 and level 85): approx. 21 m Rails: 949 straight, 263 curved and 37 modified (4, 8, 10 and 12 straight) Points: 13 standard points (whereof 3 are operated electrically) 6 crossover points (4) 11 half-curve points (1) Track Design Program: Track Designer Application (R) version 2.0 by Matthew D. Bates (Matt's LEGO (R) Train Depot) Electrics/Electronics: 1 Power Supply Unit VOLTCRAFT EP-925, 3-15 V(DC), max. 25A 4 modified Train Speed Regulators (4548) with LM350T regulators, 3A diodes, outside heatsinks (with a thermal resistance of 1.9 K/W), mini-fans and digital thermometers to measure temperatures inside the boxes 4 Control-boxes to operate 12 points electrically. The boxes are equipped with "memory-sticks" to memorize the position of each point since these are out of reach and sight. 12 PF Medium engines mounted on the electrically operated points 52 Power connections to rails 1 Control-box to selectively turn on/turn off 11 power connections Approximately 1000 m cable whereof approx. 850 m RK cable 1.5 square mm Märklin pins and sleeves 1 LED strand (4 m) with dimmer 1 IR-thermometer to measure heatsink temperatures Construction: 7 levels: Rail yard level (50 cm above floor level) Train station level (85) U-curve level 1 (115) U-curve level 2 (145) U-curve level 3 (175) Eaves level (195) Top-level (216) Max. gradient: 83 per thousand (The gradients are built in such a way that all trains can manage to get uphill and downhill with adhesion, i.e. without cogwheels). Min. clearance: approx. 12 cm Train shelves: Shelf system: Algot (IKEA) 15 train shelves type A (102x11x1.6 cm), 8 straight/shelf 27 train shelves type B (166x11x2 cm), 13 straight/shelf 12 train shelves type C (217x11x2 cm), 17 straight/shelf all train shelves are strengthened with 22x45 mm wood strips All in all 54 train shelves with a total length of 86 m (678 straight) and 108 railway buffers 2 "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys (Algot) Room dimensions: 5.5 x 7.3 m Occupied floor space (incl. train shelves): approx. 9 square m Construction materials: Wood (45x45 mm) and wood strips (22x42 mm) MDF boards (6 and 10 mm) Glass shelves (6 mm) Polycarbonate strips (3 mm) and rivets Cable conduits Steel cords (3 mm) with wire locks Perforated plates and angle irons Cable ditches and cabling towards cable terminal Cable terminal Power supply unit and cable terminal box Control center Addendum # 2: More pictures with some of my MOCs Glacier Express with Matterhorn in the background Trans Europ Express (TEE) "Rheingold" and TEE-VT 11.5 in alpine environment Swiss "Crocodile" (10183) with heavy RhB cargo transport in the steepest part of the entire track - a gradient of 83 permille! "Uppsalapendeln" in the midst of the Swiss Alps - imagine if this were for real .... Emerald Night on its way up to the mountains Track Cleaning Train at Knivsta Station - ready for new missions Track Maintenance Train on its way for a new mission Addendum #2A: Train shelves "Trains-in-Transit" (TIT) Trolleys with two Maersk and one TTX Train section(s) ready for transit Addendum #3: Videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47CqLOQKGLM&t=10s
  11. Adam Badura

    Duplo Trains discussion

    After spending lots of time playing LEGO Duplo (mostly trains) with my kids and also building some larger layouts myself I got few questions regarding (mostly) design of Duplo tracks. I asked them at Polish LUGPol forum but some were not answered (it seems LEGO Duplo is not popular enough) so I’m reposting them here hoping for larger audience and thus better answers. I believe that LEGO parts (which includes Duplo tracks...) are done carefully and decisions are unlikely taken without evaluating many issues. So the radius used for curved tracks must have some reasons behind it. I don’t know which and I would very much like to know. Since I already know much of troubles caused by that choice. Read further. (1) Curved Tracks Radius A single Duplo curved track spans on a 30° angle. Three such tracks make a right angle. But the simple staff ends here. Ever tried to connect the ends of such right angle with Duplo bricks? It failed, didn’t it? You could actually make it but that would require to strain those tracks a bit (they are significantly flexible so it doesn’t require any strength nor does it seem to make any breaking risks). If you would do that with a hole circle of 12 curved tracks you would not get a circle but an ellipse with short radius of 17 Duplo studs and long radius of 18 Duplo studs. The actual radius of a circle is somewhere around 17.5 Duplo studs. It might be aligned with LEGO studs, I haven’t checked that but I doubt it. This might seem insignificant especially that the tracks are strained so little that it is not visible to someone who “doesn’t know”. But still this is some disadvantage that shows when you try to build something bigger or mount everything on a single solid base (possibly done with plates). Since the strains add up and things start to fall apart easily. (2) Curved Tracks Alignment to Straight Tracks So I looked further wondering to what the curved tracks align well. Sadly without success. Another failed example is when you connect two curved tracks in opposite direction. That way the lines entering and leaving the two tracks are parallel. Its tempting to see if you can mount it on a plate. But as it shows again it is not possible. Such a connection of tracks does not align well with Duplo studs (and thus also straight tracks...). (3) Long Trains In my experience a train having two or three railcars significantly slows down on longer curves. The cars are long and wheels don’t turn around in no way which means that the do no align well with curved track and cause some friction. With more railcars you can see how the train slows down and sometimes even hear that. With four or more railcars its nearly sure the train will stop on a longer curve. Would the curve track have a larger radius this issue would be (somewhat) smaller. Now knowing the drawbacks of current curved track design we might wonder what are its advantages so that the trade off goes well. Anyone? And this is still not end to the questions. (4) Move Direction Why current locomotives do move in only one direction? Would changing the button to a three state switch (forward, stop, backward) make it much more expensive? Or would it be much more difficult for kids? Current sets with locomotives are from 2 years. How it was with the old “smart locomotive”? As I think it was far more “difficult” and “complex”. (5) Locomotive Anchors I find it rather odd that (current) Duplo locomotives don’t have anchors on both sides as all railcars do. This way making the locomotive push the train rather than pull is rather difficult and likely to cause derailment when using more complex layouts (like ups and downs or junctions). (6) Corrugation (I’m not sure if this is the correct word for it) Tracks and the engine wheels of the locomotive are corrugated. Why is this needed? As it seems LEGO trains don’t use it. So why Duplo trains need it? Any “rational” for those? And as a final question. (7) Does LEGO provide precise specification of their “bricks”? Like exact dimensions and sizes or power of motors and so on?
  12. Stephanix

    Stephanix

    Hi My name is Stephan Niks from the Netherlands and new here. At the moment very busy. but in the near future I will post my designs here for discussion My interest: trains, modulars and LEGO ideas
  13. Hello, I'm creating this write-up to share my experience buying and operating a set of old 12v track in the US. I had been wanting some 12v track and motors since I was in middle school (and I'm in college right now, so yes my tastes in Lego have always been old and expensive haha) but hadn't found the right lot until about a week ago. I managed to score the following lot on ebay for a good price: It is a decent amount of stuff, but some key things are missing: motor (the blue one in picture is 4.5v and doesn't work), transformer, and the piece for connecting to the track. My goal was to have an operating train for as cheaply as possible. Hopefully these ideas can help someone else out who wants to make use of older track without spending a fortune. FOR PURISTS: I handled all of these missing components in an unorthodox way that includes modification of vintage parts, so consider yourself warned Motor: Instead of buying original 12v motors, which are only available for crazy amounts of money on bricklink, I chose to use @bricks n bolts method of picking up track power and using it to drive PF motors (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/63535-mod-7745-to-use-the-pf-motor-still-on-12v-track/ I know it was a little while ago, but thank you @bricks n bolts for sharing! ) The process of cutting down the pins was pretty straightforward. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel to make the initial cut and a sanding wheel to finish things up. If anyone attempts to do this, try to keep the pin cool, as I melted the plastic a bit on one of my pick-ups. I also ended up cutting off the curved section of one pick-up, to accommodate for the magnet assembly. Connecting to track: To connect to the track, I simply soldered some wire to the little tabs on the bottom of the rail. The correct part for connecting to these blue rails isn't that expensive on bricklink...if you don't factor in overseas shipping. Transformer: Since I live in the US, using an original transformer would require a converter (I had no luck finding the 110v version on bricklink or ebay). I originally thought of using a model train transformer of some kind, but wasn't sure so I asked here on the train tech. @dr_spock suggested a cheap DC motor controller and a generic 12v DC wall adapter (Thanks! ). This ended up working perfectly, and was quite cheap. Only downside is no reverse, but I'm ok with that for how much I spent. Final Result: With everything together I swapped out one of the motors on my Powered Boxcar (https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/169681-moc-powered-boxcar-power-functions/) with the completed pick-up bogie and turned on the speed controller. It worked perfectly! I now have a functioning 12v loop that powers my newer trains! I do however have to watch out that I don't over-power the PF stuff. I suppose I could have used a 9v power adapter, but I'm leaving room for a 7740 that I hope will join my collection if I find a good deal ^These last 2 are videos, you just have to click on them There's a few more pictures of this project here if interested: https://flic.kr/s/aHskR5KZX3 Thanks for looking! Unfinished_Projects
  14. Hello, I bought some blue era remote points in rough shape, that need to be opened and repaired. Has anyone attempted this before? Is there any tips or tricks I should know about? Also, I do not own an original transformer, so I will be using a generic power supply for these. Will 12v DC work, or do I need higher voltage? Thanks, Unfinished_Projects
  15. Unfinished_Projects

    4.5v / 12v motor wheel dimensions?

    Hello, I have 4.5v train motor (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb07pb01&name=Electric, Motor 4.5V Type A 12 x 4 x 4 with 4.5V stamped on front&category=[Electric, Motor]#T=C) that needs wheels. I have access to a 3D printer and 3D modeling software/knowledge. My question is, does anyone have dimensions for "wheel2a" ?(https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=wheel2a&name=Train Wheel Spoked for Motor&category=[Wheel]#T=C) I would like to try to make something that goes into this motor and gives it a technic axle, or just recreate the wheel (either all plastic, or using purchased metal rod). Unfinished_Projects
  16. xXJakilXx

    LEGO 7938 MOC/MOD

    PLS I DON'T KNOW HOW TO PUT THE LXF.FILE HELP ME! anyway, this is basically a modified version of the lego 7938 Go check my LDD video about the wagon
  17. ElectroDiva

    2018 Lego Trains

    I think it's high time we started a 2018 Lego Trains thread after a pretty disappointing 2017. 2018 has to be an improvement right? Quite a few people seem to believe that there is a "pattern" to the City train releases and according to this pattern we should expect a new Passenger Train, Cargo Train and Train Station in 2018. @Duq explained the pattern very well on the 2017 Trains thread. In addition to these expected releases, there is also a rumour that the next modular building could be a central train station. Personally I find that a bit hard to believe but you never know!
  18. Hello everybody Does anyone here have the book 'Getting Started with LEGO Trains' by Jacob Mckee from 2003? If so, Would they be able to post a PDF of the instructions and parts list for the reefer boxcar? I've seen pictures of it and would love to build one myself but paying $60 for the book is a no go. Also, if the other instructions were posted this thread could be a good reference for anyone else who would like to build the other models from the book. Thanks in advance
  19. Hi dear friends! I want to present you one of my latests MOCs. Despite de hate ofsome to the one piece nose of the last City Passanger train, I must say I really love it. I've owned several other passanger trains and have decided to keep this as hte High Speed Train for my layout. Yet, as in all LEGO trains, Ifound it to be a little "short", so I decided to build a couple of additional cars for it. My first intention was to build a Club Car, taking as reference the one released for the Metroliner (4547 - http://brickset.com/...4547-1/Club-Car ) and an additional car as the one that came with the set. But, destininy had it's own intetions.... The Bricklink seller made an error when sending my order and, instead of a 24 studs base, he sent a 28 studs one! Since I live in Argentina, and getting pieces here is really a mess, I decided my best option was to try to extend de car whith the pieces I had available in my collection, rather that waiting for the correct base to arrive. No more words on these, so staright to the images. Hope you like them! Club Car: Extended Car: And lastly, a couple of videos of the full train running! <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube....ed/fiNkw9kMqOQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube....ed/vOB8uYfuMkk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> P.S: I would also like to invite you to follow the topic of my city layout. It has plenty of train stuff in it, so you might be interested ( http://www.eurobrick...opic=107070&hl= )! Cheers to all, and as always, comments are appreciated!
  20. Mesabi

    Large Layout Questions

    Hi, so my LUG is considering building a new train layout for a train museum that hosts us. The Layout we have their now uses 9v Tracks, because we have set it up so that the tracks are powered for X amount of time by a button press. However, the 9v Tracks are ancient, and the trains we have on them struggle to pull even two cars. I don't know if it's because of the layout's size, as it is quite large. (20'x8' or so) So, I suggested we switch to RC track, and use some sort of power functions trains. My LUG though, isn't convinced about this, as they're worried about the batteries wearing out, and having it so that a button can be pressed to start the trains. So my questions are the following: Say we use Power functions trains. How long do the batteries last, if the train is running for a while? We come to the museum every weekend, but the museum is open all week. With power functions, is there a way to set it up so a button can be pressed to run the trains for X amount of time? I'm thinking Mindstorms, or something, but I don't know. We're also not purists, if that helps. Does anyone have examples of such a layout? If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask below. Thanks!
  21. Nemo57

    Trains from pavlo.

    I'm trying to drag a very good builder of trains to EB and everything related to railway construction, pavlo, which lives in the Russian Lego forum. I obtained permission from him, I will now publish his works here. They are valuable in that they cover a diverse railroad park of the USSR / Russia, the work is done in the same style and at different scales (in 6, 8 and 10 widths), have an LDD file, and those who wish can collect these, modelism in the part of railway. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks in advance. First of all, a picture with several of his works. Gradually I will replenish this topic with new models from pavlo
  22. Hiya, I'm assembling my 2 x 10027 Train Engine Sheds ready to sell and I've run into an odd problem. Brickset's inventory says it contains the new stone greys while Peeron says it's the old greys. I tried to narrow it down by assessing whether I had the correct baseplates, tracks and other unique parts in the right colours which lead me to believe Peeron is correct and this 2003 set was on the cusp of 'greygate' but if someone could check their set and confirm which greys it uses, I'd be very grateful. Were there any sets that contained a mix of both out of interest? Thanks, Alex
  23. Redimus

    Boiler Issues

    I've decided to make a set of Southern Railway (ish) 7 wide (ish) freight wagons and a loco to go with, and to that end, I wanted something fairly simple to model while I get the hand of 7 wide building (so far, it's a b******d). I've selected the Maunsell Q class 0-6-0 tender engines and so far, it's all going OK (after a lot of farting around getting the footplate to match along the whole engine without fouling the driving wheels). The Prototype. Progress so far. Unfortunately, I'm really having some issues with the boiler. I've tried using the 4 wide round parts, but there seems to be no obvious way to connect them to the front and back without some ugly gaps and too many compromises. Do you guys have any suggestions as to how I could make that work? Alternatively, I'm gonna try the 5 stud wide cheese wedge built boiler I've seen online, but I'm not entirely sold on that either. Also, does anybody have a suggestion on 2 similar methods to build a boiler I could combine to show the slightly wider smokebox?
  24. This is my DIY LED lights on a budget. White 5mm LEDs are 2 cents each and resistors are 4 cents each on eBay. A large spool of wire-wrap wire costs around $5-7. Do-It-Yourself LEGO LED Light by dr_spock_888, on Flickr I tapped into the 9V and GND lines of the IR Receiver for power. Note this will void your warranty. Do so at your own risk. I fed the wires through the pin holes on the receiver. No drilling or cutting needed. I sandwiched the LED between two Technic 1x2 bricks. The 5mm sized LEDs fit right in the Technic hole. I decided to try wire-wrapping instead of soldering. It might be easier to disassemble later on. The LED turns on when the battery pack is turned on. It makes a good reminder to turn off the battery pack when done playing. Little Yellow Locomotive by dr_spock_888, on Flickr The hard part was calculating what size resistor to use to limit the current to the LED. Too much current will blow the LED. Tools used were small Philip head (+) screwdriver, wire cutter & stripper, soldering iron, wire-wrap tool, and tweezers. Plus a multimeter to verify polarity.
  25. Its time to start thinking about Brickworld Chicago 2018 is only 4 months away. What topics would most interest you for the Train Round Table? Here are just a few possibilities... or suggest one - Third Party tracks options for wide curves, turnouts, metal rails (Like BrickTracks, 4D Bricks, ME Models, etc) ? - The new Lego Power Functions 2.0 standard ? - Third Party power options (like PFX Brick, S-Brick, etc) ? - Building Narrow Gauge ( using either narrow gauge or new Roller Coaster track ) ? - Rechargeable battery options (alternatives to the Lego LIPO battery) - BMW