Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Splat

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia
  • Interests


  • Country
    Melbourne, AU
  • Special Tags 1

Recent Profile Visitors

1661 profile views
  1. @Void_S - Thanks for sharing. I have left a comment in your topic. @Aleh - Thanks I have one more MOD that I want to make to 42005, but it might not be ready for a little while.
  2. @Void_S - Nice work, and thanks for the detailed write-up I like that you defined your goals up-front. That is how I try to work too - set the parameters that I want to work within, and then keep building until I satisfy my initial goals. You have a few interesting techniques, and although you have added some elements to the body, 42005 can still be recognized in there. Have you built this with real bricks yet? I'm interested to see how the sliding axle of the steering will work, and also what happens when the left wheel raises higher than the right (or vice versa). Thanks for sharing.
  3. @Void_S - Thanks I know that my MOD of 42005 with 4WD/4WS/RC isn't very realistic, so I'd like to see your version of 42005 with 4WD and 4WS if you get around to making it. @BrickbyBrickTechnic - Thanks Sorry, I don't have any instructions for this MOD. I actually made this MOD a while ago and only just got around to posting it now, but I have disassembled the MOD already so I only have the images/video shown above.
  4. I have created a Tracked version of this Monster Truck: Since this truck uses tank treads with rubber attachments it can traverse a wide range of terrains, and it has neutral steering (it can turn on the spot). The two bogies are linked via gears to provide suspension. When the left bogie goes up, the right bogie goes down, and vice-versa. The truck itself maintains the average pitch of both of the bogies. No springs are used in the suspension. Suspension in BLUE Right Track in GREEN Left Track in RED This truck uses the Lego Power Functions Rechargeable Battery (8878) to power an SBrick, which controls two Power Functions L-Motors (88003). One motor drives the left bogie, the other drives the right bogie. The truck is controlled remotely using Bluetooth via the SBrick and SBrick Android App on my mobile phone. Larger images are available in my Brickshelf Gallery (once moderated): http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/slfroden/42005-MOD/
  5. Test Poll

    I voted, then the options disappeared and the results showed up (as expected). I refreshed, and just the results show up (as expected). I went to another page of this same topic, and just the results show (as expected). Seems to be working ok for me. Edit: However, if I click on the "See who voted for this" link, it shows my username, but the number on the page says 11 (for answer = 2), but 12 usernames are listed. If I click on the other answers, they match up ok. Maybe it doesn't count Jim since he is the creator of the topic?
  6. Hi everyone I have created another Magic Folding Cube. I call this one my "Motorized Mega Magic Folding Cube"! This Mega Magic Folding Cube has sides that are 30 studs long, and has been motorized with the Lego Power Functions system of motors, infrared controllers and receivers, and batteries. Just like my other Magic Folding Cubes, this one can also be 'folded' endlessly. It features: 8x Lego L-Motors 2x Lego v2 IR Receivers 1x Lego Rechargable Battery Box, and over 15 feet (4.6 metres) of wires. Unfortunately I won't be making any building instructions for this model. This time, I was honoured to be blogged by Brick Nerd: http://bricknerd.com/home/motorized-magic-cube-11-2017 Please let me know if you have any constructive feedback, comments, or questions.
  7. It seems to run very smoothly over most terrain. What is the purpose of the large linear actuators at the front? Are they part of the steering, or used as variable length linkages for the suspension, or something else?
  8. Technic Photography

    @therealjustin - Nice looking photos and bike. Some constructive feedback for you: For the indoor shots, you have some distracting shadows under the bike. Are you able to diffuse the LED light so that it creates a softer shadow? Some of the black areas of the bike have just become a big black blob. Depending on the look that you are going for, this is fine. However if you are trying to 'document' your model, you might want a little bit more detail in there at least. Having a reflector or a secondary light that can bounce some light back up into the model from below might help, or if you want to do it in post-processing, adjust the highlights/shadows. Also be careful of that 'one extra bright reflection of light' that always seem to appear. It can be hard to avoid, especially when you have a model with so many angles, but this is where having a diffuse light source can help again. It looks like some of your backgrounds have introduced quite a bit of grain. You mentioned that you are shooting at ISO80, so I'm not sure what is causing that. Trying to make a dark image lighter in post-processing will typically make it look grainy though. Are you having to change the exposure levels in post-processing very much? I've always had trouble photographing 'Lego red' and getting it to look good as it always tends to look over-saturated, but I think you have done a great job here. I was always taught that it was better to over-expose a little bit rather than under-expose, but there are different schools-of-thought on that these days. When shooting in RAW, 1/3 of a stop isn't going to make too much difference, and you will be able to adjust that easy enough in post-processing. @ everyone else - Take a look at the last image (the outdoor shot). That is a nice use of aperture to get a good depth-of-field. The entire bike is perfectly in focus, but everything behind the bike quickly falls out of focus, which helps the bike stand out from the background. At the same time, where the tires meet the road and the road is in focus and you can see the bike's shadow, this helps to keep the bike to look 'grounded' so it doesn't look like it is just floating there.
  9. Technic Photography

    The best settings to get nice sharp images really depend on your camera and lens used, so there is no magic setting that will just work for everyone. Of course, if you want to get the sharpest image out of particular lens, most manufacturers produce technical information such as MTF Charts that can help. See here: https://photographylife.com/how-to-read-mtf-charts As a general rule, this has worked for me: Use a tripod. USE A TRIPOD! Even a cheap tripod or a GorillaPod is better than hand-holding your camera if you want to get a large depth-of-field and a sharp image. Shoot in manual mode. Use a low ISO setting (eg 100). Use an aperture (f number) that is not 'wide-open'. I have had good results with values between f/8.0 and f/16 on a dSLR camera. Sometimes I will take the same photo multiple times, with the only difference being that I change my aperture (called 'bracketing'), and then I choose the best photo once I get back to my computer to edit them. Let the shutter speed be whatever it needs to be to get a well exposed image. You are using a tripod so the camera is steady, and Lego is an inanimate object, so a slow shutter shouldn't be an issue. Some of my images can take 15 seconds or more to expose, depending on the lighting conditions. Use a remote shutter trigger, or if you don't have one of those, use the timer feature on your camera. This prevents the camera from shaking just as you press the shutter button. This is the digital age where you can immediately review your photo once you have taken it. If you're not happy, adjust your settings (for example, use a smaller aperture for a larger depth-of-field) and take another shot!
  10. Technic Photography

    @JGW3000 - That image is looking pretty good - your daughter did a good job. Some constructive feedback: Fix the little bit of background showing on the right that @Myers Lego Technic mentioned. It looks a little bit grainy - try lowering the ISO. The shadow at the front has a little bit of blue tint to it, but it is still very acceptable.
  11. How did you email them, but aren't able to see their other contact information? If you go to https://www.lego.com/en-au/service, there is an option to 'Send Email' and directly below that is an option to 'Phone Us'. Click that, and select your country from the drop-down to get their phone number.
  12. @Sariel - It looks like rcMart.com has stolen one of your YouTube videos and uploaded it to Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/rcmart/videos/10155265672557008/ they have given you credit (link to your YouTube Channel), but it is still 5.5k views (at the time of writing this) that you have missed out on. Unless you have a prior arrangement with them, you might want to investigate further. Facebook: Reporting a Violation or Infringement of Your Rights: https://www.facebook.com/help/contact/634636770043106
  13. Technic Photography

    Try to keep the green screen further away from the model. This has a few advantages: Any green reflection should only appear on the back of the model, and not in the photo from the camera. You will be able to light the green screen separately from the model so that you can get the green screen evenly lit to avoid lots of post-processing. Having distance between the green screen and the model also allows the depth-of-field to be focused on the model, while the green screen is blurred out. This helps to make the green screen look more uniform, which also helps to avoid lots of post-processing. Lastly, this allows your model to have nice sharp edges which helps when post-processing.
  14. designer: Splat motorized or manual: Motorized (but could also be manual) sequential or direct: Sequential (using linear actuator) special features: can be changed to more or less gears number of gears: 3 Speed + Neutral + PTO more info: Eurobricks Topic -------- designer: Splat motorized or manual: Motorized (but could also be manual) sequential or direct: Sequential (using worm gears) special features: can be changed to more or less gears number of gears: 6 Speed + Reverse
  15. Two of these damped shock absorbers were used in the Mars Exploration Rover set. One was used to slowly open up the solar panels. The other was used to slowly raise up the mast that has the cameras and other sensors. Here's a short 30 second video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/i9lMB6P-oJw What I want to know is... What can the same damper WITHOUT the spring be used for? Part 32181c03, only used in one set. I have a few of these, but have never found a use for them!