Splat

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  1. If your photos are coming out too 'yellow orange', perhaps you can adjust the white balance of your camera accordingly. Most (all?) digital cameras will let you do this - check your camera settings or read the manual. I'm not sure which camera/flash you are using, but in your flash example it seems that either something was blocking the flash, the flash was too far away from the subject, or the flash was set to a very low level. In your last example with the daylight bulb you are still getting harsh shadows. I would recommend using multiple diffuse light sources to get better results. If you only have one light, you can use a white piece of card to 'bounce' some light back into your model from the other side to fill in the shadows a little bit. My recommendation for the best way to get decent photos is to use a sturdy tripod or other similar support for your camera. This will allow you to take decent photos with a wide variety of lighting conditions. As an example, I have even managed to take great looking photos using just a very low powered flashlight/torch with an incandescent bulb to light the model (that's all that I had access to at the time). I set my camera's white balance to match the colour temperature of the flashlight/bulb (to get 'white' whites), used a tripod for my camera, and set my camera to a long exposure (30 seconds). I then used the flashlight/torch to 'paint' light onto the model from various angles over the 30 second exposure time. Continuously moving the flashlight/torch helped to eliminate any harsh shadows. This just goes to show that you don't 'need' fancy lighting setups to light your models, but they do help to make things quicker and more predictable.
  2. Santa spending some time on the beach in the summer sunshine 'down-under' this Christmas:
  3. Your screen capture software is fine and does a good job. I just wanted to let you know of Linkage Simulator's option to export to video in case you weren't aware of it. Either way works well.
  4. @oracid - Those are some interesting walking mechanisms. I like how the foot lifts up quickly and goes down quickly, leaving more time for the foot to be on the ground. I'm glad that you found that Linkage Simulator software to be useful, and it looks like you have mastered it pretty quickly. FYI: you can also export videos directly from the software (rather than using another screen capture program). On my computer I did have to install x264VfW to get it to export videos properly.
  5. Splat

    Question about gears and chains

    All Technic gears (since about 1977) are designed to work with each other, so the gear teeth have the same pitch allowing them to mesh together, and this constant pitch also means that the chain links will work on all of the gears that others have mentioned above. Technic gears can generally be divided into two categories: Gears with skinnier square teeth (8, 16, 24, 40), and Gears with fatter rounded (bevel) teeth (12, 20, 36). The chain links will work with all of the skinner square teeth gears, except the newer 8 tooth gears as Void_S mentioned. The size of a gear can be calculated by the number of teeth divided by 8. 8 tooth gear / 8 = 1 stud 16 tooth gear / 8 = 2 studs 24 tooth gear / 8 = 3 studs 40 tooth gear / 8 = 5 studs Since the teeth of one gear overlap with the teeth of the adjacent gear, the true diameter is a little bit bigger than these values. For example, the true diameter of a 24 tooth gear = 3 studs + the width of a gear tooth, meaning that it won't fit in a 3x3 stud hole, but it will mesh with another gear next to it. The number of teeth can also be used to work out the spacing required between gears: (gear1 + gear2) / 2 gears / 8 teeth. 8 tooth gear to 8 tooth gear: (8+8) / 2 / 8 = 1, meaning that these two gears should be 1 stud apart (center to center) 24 tooth gear to 40 tooth gear: (24+40) / 2 / 8 = 4, meaning that these two gears should be 4 studs apart (center to center) If you are trying to mesh two gears that are diagonal from each other, the same rules applies but you might have to use some Pythagoras geometry to work out the distances and gears that will fit, or use Sariel's gear calculator: http://gears.sariel.pl/
  6. Nice work. So much can be done with some nice linkage mechanisms (walkers, GBC modules, factory machines, etc). As you mentioned, each pivot can have almost infinite adjustments, leading to almost infinite paths that can be made. This video from Disney Research Hub is also good to watch: For a good computer linkage simulator I can recommend this one: http://blog.rectorsquid.com/linkage-mechanism-designer-and-simulator/ It allows you to quickly and easily make simple or complex mechanisms, and allows you to trace the various points in the mechanism. It is 2D, so trying to replicate things such as worm gears can be a bit challenging, and it doesn't have any other physics such as gravity or friction, but sometimes that is a good thing to keep things simple. In addition to linkages, it also has gears, chains, and linear actuators.
  7. If you don't like the idea of using 'dentist tools' because they remind you of the dentist, then you can use 'wax carving tools' instead: https://www.amazon.com/SE-DD312-12-Piece-Stainless-Carvers/dp/B000SVRSRY/ I have a set of these, and they can be useful for working with Lego, as well as other hobbies such as model making. I also use a crochet hook to help guide string and stretch rubber bands into place when there isn't much room to use my fingers. This stuff is called Plasti Dip, and you can either get it in a spray can, or in a can with a lid so that you can dip your tool into it. For thicker coats, you may have to dip several times to build up the coat and let it dry between coats.
  8. @Aventador2004 - Do you think that ignorance is a valid excuse? Think about it this way: If you want to use an image, did you take that photo and/or create that image yourself? If the answer is no, then you COPIED it from somewhere else. If you do not have permission from the copyright owner, or your use does not fit into the category of the 'fair use' doctrine, then you are not allowed to use that content. The same applies to literary, dramatic, musical, and artistic works, such as poetry, novels, movies, songs, computer software, and architecture. @Jim - Is your comment (quoted above) an admission of guilt? As the copyright owner, I also retain the exclusive right to produce derivative works based on my original, copyrighted image. Given your position on this forum, you should know better, and your blatant disregard for my legal rights as the copyright owner and your continued use of this image and derivatives thereof is very concerning.
  9. Splat

    [MOC] KELP

    Nice work. The base looks nice and compact, and the coloured plates are mesmerising to watch. It reminds me of @aeh5040's Slithy Troves Kinetic Sculpture Welcome back out of your dark ages!
  10. I don't think any of us are immune to having our images/videos stolen. As an example, I was taking a look at the Eurobricks Frontpage News, and suddenly realised that image of the pullback motor that @Milan used to promote the Voting for Technic Pullback Contest! topic was my original image that I took back in 2012, and the picture has been cropped to remove my original watermark from the bottom-right-hand corner. Digging a little deeper, it looks like @Jim also used the same cropped image in the [TC13] Technic Pullback Contest general discussion topic without permission. The original image is located on my Brickshelf gallery at one of these addresses: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5672931 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5816741 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5816779 In the footer of the Brickshelf pages it states: That means that, while I have uploaded the content (images) to Brickshelf, I still retain the copyright to this content, and it cannot be copied without my permission. I'm not saying that @Milan and @Jim are the only ones to have copied my images of the pullback motor without my permission, and a quick Google image search shows that it has been copied by a number of other websites too, all without my permission. I just find it sad that our Eurobricks Technic Admin (@Jim) and Eurobricks Technic Moderator (@Milan) are also contributing to the issue of improper use of copyrighted material.
  11. Great work on this MOC so far! I'll be keeping an eye on your progress. With regards to the BuWizz's and cables - have you considered putting the BuWizz's in up-side-down, or sideways? This might make it easier to turn them on/off too. Just a thought.
  12. I sent a message to OldLego.com on Facebook. This is now the conversation went: Me: Hi. You have some really nice Technic models in your videos! Did you design all of these models yourself? OldLego.com: Hi Stephan, of course no...If you take a look at the descriptions in all the videos posted, every designer and builder is clearly mentioned. All the best Me: Oh, ok. I didn't read the descriptions. So all those designers gave you permission to upload their videos to Facebook? OldLego.com: Are you one of them? Me: No. My next question would have been to ask if they know what 'copyright' is... but he/she blocked me from messaging them on Facebook anymore! This suggests to me that they know that they are doing something wrong/illegal. It doesn't look like they have stolen any of my photos or videos yet, so there isn't much that I can do. Only the people's work that has been copied without permission can do anything about it.
  13. Historically, for the Lego sets that Lego gives the option of motorising, they make you build the entire model first, then give further instructions from there. Sometimes this involves back-tracking and removing a few pieces before adding the Lego motor/s. However, Lego has also planned for this, so the number of extra steps to motorise the model is usually kept to a minimum. If you are adding RC to an existing set that was never planned (by Lego) to be motorised, I can imagine that there might be times that the number of steps to remove pieces could be removing more half of the model, and in that case it might be easier/quicker to just give instructions to build the whole model from the beginning with RC. I guess what I am trying to say is that you might have to look at each model individually and decide which approach makes the most sense. Keep your target audience in mind too. If you are creating instructions for AFOLs, then they can be a little more terse. If you are creating instructions for the lowest common denominator (kids 7+), then you will have to 'spell' the instructions out a bit more so they are easy to understand. If you are doing a photo sequence, you may have to edit the photos to add arrows, axle/liftarm lengths, etc.
  14. I use 3 different cameras, all getting a bit old now, but still work fine. I typically upload videos at 720p, so I don't mind shooting at this lower resolution. As @dr_spock mentioned, I find these 720p videos easier/quicker to edit and upload. Canon 60D DSLR camera with various lenses. I actually don't like shooting Lego models with this camera too much. It has limited settings for the video resolution/frame rate, and unless you have good lighting you will have to use a larger ISO and large aperture (the shutter speed is limited by the frame rate). This means that you end up with a shallow depth-of-field, meaning that a large portion of the frame is out-of-focus, and if you aren't careful, the wrong part of the frame is out-of-focus. Canon PowerShot SD980 IS / Digital IXUS 200 IS. This is my smaller point-and-shoot camera. As the sensor is smaller than the DSLR, it has a larger depth-of-field, which can be an advantage when shooting something at close range, especially when you are trying to document your Lego model as opposed to creating an 'artsy' type of shot. This camera only captures at 720p, but it is about 8 years old now, and I should probably update it soon. GoPro Hero 4 Session. This camera is great for attaching to your Lego model to get that shot where it looks like you are riding inside/beside your model. I have used this on remote controlled cars/trucks/tanks, as well as attaching it to Lego trains, etc. There is a vast array of attachments for this camera, and these can be mounted to Lego, but I tend to just use a piece of strong double sided tape (the stuff that is used to stick down carpet - link). This is strong enough to stick to the Lego and keep the camera in place, yet easy enough to remove after use. I also recommend having a tripod, even if it is just something small like a GorillaPod or similar.
  15. Splat

    [MOC] 4x4 retro car help

    As @Boulderer mentioned, you can stack any of the Power Functions connectors. So (for example) you can have: two IR Receivers coming off a single Battery Box allowing 4 individually controlled remote channels, or you can have one IR Receiver coming off a Battery Box, but then have multiple motors coming off each of the IR channels, so you can use two motors on one channel to drive, and another motor on the other channel to steer, or many other combinations. If you are new to Power Functions, it is worth it to read Lego's Power Functions FAQ page: https://www.lego.com/powerfunctions/faqs If you want even more information about the different motors, I recommend reading Philo's Motors page: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm