Mirco Hussmann

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  1. Mirco Hussmann

    Ferrari SF71H 2018 F1

    Good evening everybody! So, first of all, thanks for your feedback so far. :) I've made quite a bit of progress on the car in the last week, and today I found the time as well as the good weather I needed for shooting. Main changes: - completely remodeled airbox with more detailed stickers and replacement of the T-wing - enlarged inner sidepod intakes - steering wheel is now turning when, well, steering - Halo is now solid and not any longer made of a liftarm - slight remodeling of rear wing barge boards and smoothening of the mounting - covered up the complete rear of the car and the sides of the nose with tiles for a much cleaner look The first thing I did was covering everything up with tiles, nothing too special there. I was unhappy with the design and building style of the airbox from the start, but waited until I had the rest finished before I got to that. The stickers cover up that I actually used other bricks than the ones that would fit perfectly, but it sits in a way that it doesn't show and simultaneously suggests the bricks are the "right" ones. The white part isn't completely linear, but sadly I missed the 3 long "roof" bricks that would've been necessary to achieve that, and I think it's a minor flaw. My concern was, at first, that the 3-wide style would make the white part too wide, but it pretty much fits this way and I dont think I'm gonna change it anymore. Also, the side and top cameras are now really looking like the original and not just some black stuff I threw onto it. For the Halo, I already had the most part lying around, but I only managed to find the top technic brick two days ago when looking for other stuff. Rear wing changes are minor, just some mounting changes so it doesn't collide with the rear wheels and looks more smooth and round like the original. Steering wheel moving isn't all too big of a change, but because I apparently started to construct sensible and actually stable builds, I had to rip the whole chassis apart to get to the servo and turn it around. It's now facing downwards, so the secondary output is on the top. When it was the other way round, I couldn't manage to get the CV-joint powered axle to the steering wheel without it sticking out, so I turned the servo around, moved it one hole to the rear, used 3 8-tooth-gears to move the main output to the right height again and connected the steering wheel. The area in front of the cockpit and Halo mount also got more clean during this procedure. Lastly, I made some minor changes like adding black supports to the inner side of the barge boards on the side pods and exchanging the 2x1 bricks seperating the two side pod intakes with a red "window", so the wall is thinner and the shape of the openings resembles the original much better. A few more impressions: Nice view of the front wing aero elements. My favourite angle when looking at the car - I really love the rake of this year's F1 generation Final view of the current state. I don't know yet what the next thing is gonna be. I'm pretty happy with the elements I recently made changes to, so I guess the next part would be the front wing, one of the first things I amde. I don't know yet what I'm gonna improve, but this most definitely isn't even its final form Maybe I'll have more stickers in the next update. During the race weekend in Melbourne I saw some that I didn't catch yet, like the Kaspersky on the side of the nose, V-Power on the front wing and more stuff on Halo, and maybe with the tiles I am going to try to find a way for the Ray-Ban and Alfa Romeo stickers in the rear of the car. As always, let me know what you think of it, and if you have any suggestions for improvement, please, please give it to me!
  2. Hello everybody, I'd like to share my latest project, an ~ 1:8 scale model of Ferrari's new Formula 1 car, the SF71H piloted by Räikkönen and Vettel. Features include: - PF-driven remote controlled driving and steering - custom stickers and tyre decals - functional crash structures (Halo, airbox, front and rear) - damperless suspension (more on that below) - realistic rake - bricks with Technic holes as "skeleton" The car is designed in the same manner as the Racers 2008 Ferrari (8157), though I completely started over with this MOC, I just use the same basic idea to get the whole car structurally stable and nearly flex-free. The Halo is the only non-Lego part I had to use because I don't have red flex axles, so instead I used part of a firetruck hose I found somewhere between old toys and stuck them onto 53451 mounted in holes next to the headrest section. The suspension is quite unconventional. I don't own the Technic F1 suspension bricks and I didn't feel like buying them, so I tried to build kind of an F1 style suspension without them. The front one is nearly the same as 8157's, only with a few adjustions, mainly in width. The rear unit is a standard double wishbone suspension with 9L liftarms, the driveshafts only have CV joints at the differential, not at the wheel carriers. This way, I was able to mount the Porsche wheels to the axle using truck rims to connect them. At first, I had the suspension fixed with all sorts of L-shaped technic bricks, but neither worked in holding the suspension high enough for the car to be tilted forwards or even even (^^). I didn't want to use shock absorbers because a) there is no space for them and b) if I would've mounted them directly, without pushrods, they would've stuck out, and I didn't want them to spoil the otherwise pretty clean look of the rear. The alternative I went for was mounting two 32140 Technic L-bricks to the upper wishbones with two black mounting pins, with the outer as a regular pin, while the inner pins are ones that are borken on one side so the whole thing could flex quite a bit. I then asymmetrically mounted a 13L liftarm between the tops of them to push them apart, and the flex made possible by the broken pins allows the whole thing to absorb pretty decent bumps. I also crashtested the Halo which can be seen at the end of this video. The official FIA Test used a 20kg tyre fired at the cockpit with 225 kph, so considering the scale of the model, my tyre should be about 7 m/s fast when hitting Halo. My highly scientific approach of making sure that is roughly case was to throw the tyre across the room, making it travel about 7 metres in less than a second. Scienced. Stickers were made by printing on photo paper, putting transparent duct tape on it and double-sided tape on the rear, no muscles strained there. For the tyre decals, I used my mother's Silhouette Cameo 3, a basic plotter, with yellow Oracal vinyl material that is usually used for car stickers. It's a bit of a pain in the brick to put them on the tyres and keep them there, but if they are really clean and dry and the glue on the vinyl is fresh and new, it can be done. I also used the rest of that material for decals on my little brother's -removed- Porsche for a livery he "designed" himself, here's a picture to show what else can be done with this method. Image removed. Finally, I'd like to give some impressions of the car, which can also be seen in the video, but the original pictures are higher res, so here they are. I know it's not perfect and I still improve it day by day, but I just had to share it now, so let me know what you think! Edit: recalculated scale due to new information available.
  3. Yeah, I'm sorry for that, I didn't remember that option, but if I find the time, I'l edit it soon.
  4. Hello everyone, as I am currently a student and thus have not that much money at hand, I have decided to take my heavily modded Arocs apart - almost every brick that's worth something as well as nearly all my motors were devoured by this monster - so I can start building new stuff again. But I didn't want to destroy the thing I put quite a few hours into without sharing it, so here are a few impressions. https://www.pic-upload.de/gal-1108866/9x2lk/1.html What I changed: - (except for pneumatic controls) fully RC, 2 L-Motors for drive, M-Motor for steering, see http://www.doktor-brick.de/index.php/Thread/4169-Lego-42043-MB-Arocs-3245-Mods-und-verbesserungen/?pageNo=12 - modification of efferman's Palfinger Epsilon crane and a custom base for it with rearranged pneumatic controls - elongation of the whole thing by 4(?) studs in order to fit motors for each individual function in it - LEDs in the 4 front lights, a blinking LED for the roof light, 4 LEDs for rear lights and 2 LEDs for reverse lights (attached to a PF cable on the drive receiver port) as well as 4 LEDs for the trailer - snow plow and a mount for it - pneumatic exits for snow plow and trailer as well as a switch for selecting one of them right after the splitter for the crane pneumatic supply - connection cable for the trailer lights - pneumatic tilt function, manual stabilisators and actual leaf springs on the trailer - rear bumpers on the truck itself and the trailer - kicked out the stabilisators on the truck because NO SPACE, at least I couldn't find a way to keep them inside Things I would've changed if I could: - swap the PF battery box and receivers for BuWizz (better looks, stronger battery, the thing guzzles the batteries in like 5 minutes) - make the compressor automatic - maybe add turn lights I hope you guys like it, I'm a little sad I'm gonna take it apart now, but it was an awful lot of fun to build this thing and that's the most important thing I guess. Cheers
  5. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    @TechnicRCRacer Yeah, I failed a bit with both colours as the blue is too dark and the green too light, but I think it fits nonetheless. @ginger-snapped I printed the background too. I just looked up the hexcodes for the respective RAL codes and played around with different saturations etc. from there. Green worked at first try, but it seems impossible to print a blue this dark on Standard paper with a Standard printer. I might look into using photo paper, as I did with the spoiler to Match the black. And I am really sad I got fooled by the cover of the paint which said you don't a Primer for ABS and similar stuff, but I guess at least I learned something
  6. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    I really don't know why exactly. Some parts, like the rear fenders and the black spoiler parts, look like they came this way, but others, mainly green ones, look pretty ugly. May be because of the fact I didn't have any experience with this.
  7. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    Yeah, the idea of painting Lego bothered me too at first, but there were two reasons I did it anyway: I friggin love this car and the bricks I needed aren't available, which is sad. I would have loved to 3D-print them on my own, if only I had like - ya know - a 3D Printer :D
  8. Mirco Hussmann

    42056 Falken Porsche Mod

    Thanks guys! Yeah, I know about the painting part, on some pieces it's still a little goofy, but as I had a major fuckup in one of the painting cycles on the green ones I was fixing till yesterday, this is about as good as it could get, and the flexible axes don't wanna get painted that easily. :/ I will probably replace them sooner or later, is just a cost issue atm. And about the taking apart: as I said, I was really afraid it would come out crappy, especially because I did it alone and had never any sort of spray painting before, but as soon as I had the thing put together in the first place, I knew it would stay whole, so I never even thought about using the bricks for something else :D The travel bag is safely stored in the original box together with all the parts taken out
  9. Hello everyone! As this is my first real topic in this forum after a few years of reading silently, I will say the following about myself: I'm from Germany, just finished the Abitur and I love cars as well as Lego (Technic), especially Porsche, and I will probably start studying mechanical engineering this year. Sooo, this project was a pretty huge thing for me in the last few months. As a huge fan of their cars, when the Lego Porsche was announced I knew I needed it, and got it early this year. When it stood in front of me on the table, finished, I already thought about how awesome it would be to mod the sh*t out of this monster. I started with technical modifications on the gearbox, adding working door knobs, gearing the steering wheel up to have a rotation close to 900°, filling some holes in the body and including Didumos' Ackermann steering mod. After various tries, I kind of rebuilt the chassis for rc use. While the servo was pretty easy to throw in (while it was tight and a perfect fit), the whole gearbox flew out for 4 M-Motors. While at first I had one technic battery box laying on top of the rear suspension cover, I soon changed this solution to having two train bbs in the engine bay. The gear driving the differential which comes from the motors required the fake engine to be moved down as far as it goes, but this gave me the possibility to keep it inside. Next thing to do was the lighting, which I did by using the cables of broken PF motors to connect 10 white 9V LEDS from ebay. I then continued to see something new to be improved everyday and fix this one or that one, until I finally decided (about 2 months ago), that it is time to move on to the real stuff. So i bought RAL 6019 (the green one), RAL 5002 (blue) and RAL 9005 (black), 1200 ml each, and just started spray painting the parts. I did the panels and small parts laying on a metal sheet, rear side first, while I did the liftarms by putting them on a string with the middle hole so they spin when being sprayed. While the most turned out well after the first few rounds of painting, some got pretty ugly when drying, which I fixed by sanding the parts and spraying a thin layer over it. While the parts were still drying and between the paiting rounds I already did the interieur - removing the right seat, changing the seat colour to gray/black, removing the shifter knob, replacing the old dashboard, changing the steering wheel to a more GT3-style-thingy, adding a fore extinguisher and changing the orange cage to black. I also ordered the neon-yellowish headlight bricks, which looks hella awesome at night or even more in twilight. At this point, technical improvements had all been made, I solely focused on asthetics. When I was finished with the colouring, I had to decide how I would do the stickers. After I saw the extremely low prices for custom stickers on websites of printing companies (about 200€), I looked for alternatives. I saw a YT-video with a technique I didn't think of till then which worked surprisingly well. All the stickers on the car are made this way. Finally, a list of all the modifications: - Full RC, 4 M-Motors, 1 Servomotor, 2 Train BB's, 2 IR Receivers with nearly invisible placement that doesn't disturb the looks - steering wheel upgearing - several body fixes - head- and rear lights, neon headlight bricks - spray painted bricks and custom stickers - change of the mounting of the rear shocks so they are more stiff to carry the heavier weight of the engine bay - (still) working and repositioned flat 6 despite the rc mod - interieur, wheel and dashboard changes - new centerlock wheel nut bricks (no RS anymore :D) - carbon fiber covered exhaust pipes, that front thingy panels (no idea what the english word is ^^) and - diffusor - chassis changes to make rc mod possible While these were all my own mods, I also used two mods from other guys: - El Squattore's working door knob mod adapted to the large shocks - Didumos' Ackermann steering, also changed a bit because I was missing a few of the bricks. Man, I can't tell how many times I thought i just threw 200€ into the trash by f***ing up some of the bricks when painting them, but I think in the end it worked out more than just well. :) There's probably a video/car porn coming as soon as I find time and a nice location for it. Anyway, thanks for reading and let me know what you think of this thing!
  10. Ok, thank you guys for the tips! I will try it as soon as possible.
  11. Hello everyone, while I was reading in this forum for a pretty long while now, I now signed in to ask for your help. I recently designed a Lego Titanic in a pretty large scale (it is about 2.50 metres long), so loading and everything else in LDD takes a long while of course. But no matter how long i wait, I can't seem to make my computer spit out the instructions, although I think it's not that bad of a machine (i5 4690k @ 4Ghz, 8 Gigs of RAM). Could anyone give me tips what the reason could be? I also thought about splitting it in parts, but as it is that large that you can barely move big areas of it without the software freezing, I disapproved of that idea. Sadly I don't know how to upload the .lxf here because it is too big (230KB). Thanks in advance, Mirco