Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'road'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • New Member Section - PLEASE READ BEFORE STARTING!
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?



Website URL








Special Tags 1

Special Tags 2

Special Tags 3

Special Tags 4

Special Tags 5

Special Tags 6

Country flag

Found 35 results

  1. Got these parts. They are fifty shades of grey. No surprise, lego does best they can. because seemed best for some roller. When it came out (2020), I thought, that we really could expect some road/asphalt roller. If not in technic, then in city or some other. OK, for city theme it is somehow too big, I suppose. When I started to build, I understood, that for technic it is somehow too small. But I managed to build something. Some asphalt tandem roller could be easier (will try that next), as I needed to find some matching wheels for rear. That was somehow challenging. But here it is (sorry, not the best pictures, as it is snowing in my photo studio), even with some functions - HOG steering, articulating roller, openable hood, and some really fake engine. I was thinking to implement some fake engine, but could not get together it with steering. Roller frame (or something) was also challenging. After some thinking this seemed best solution. On option was also 7x11 frame, in which those wheels fit really good, just it is even one stud wider. And then it doesn't look so good anymore and there are too big gaps between side and roller. HOG I put behind cabin, which mimics air filter as on some original rollers. Rear hood is openable, and there is very fake engine
  2. Hello Eurobricker's I just wanted to show you one of my latest builds. Its an RC semi truck that has the ROOF based on a Scania Crew-cab! Love it or hate it here it is. Features Differential in the rear. Opening doors Spacious Cabin Detailed Interior Full RC L Motor and an M motor Working 5th wheel Easily removable battery box. Love it or hate it there it is. Please give me some feedback, I haven't made instructions yet as I don't know if anyone will be interested in building it!
  3. George Lego

    Greek National Highway Road

    This is a prior version of the Greek National Highway Road with a single middle partition
  4. Redimus

    Modular 2.0

    I've always been a fan of the modular buildings, and intend to build a layout that relies heavily on them. Unfortunately, I have never liked the standard way they interact with roads. The Lego road baseplates have several rows of studs on their outer edges, leading to the weird practice of most people's Lego cities having a random rough strip of land between the roads and the city center buildings. Add this to the fact that the roads themselves don't actually connect in a modular fashion. My first thought was just to have smaller baseplates with tilled roads. Whilst this works, I'd have to add an extra plate to the underside of *every* modular build to allow for the 1 plate height difference between the road and the pavement, and it still wouldn't actually result in a road attached to the rest of the city. My second thought was, what if I just remove the baseplates as they are currently aligned, and attach the font of each modular set to the side of the road plates. This solves the lose road issue, but results in a very difficult to disassemble city (something I've needed to do at least once a year). It also still has the downside of taking apart the bottom over every modular set, but I've kind of resigned myself to that. Still not happy, I stumbled upon a youtube video of micro scale modular cities, which included the road in each modular segment. Whilst not the perfect solution (for ease of reconfiguration, I'd like the roads completely separable) id did point me in the best direction to go forward. Using standard modular base ideas (as seen in yet more youtube videos) I've come up with a range of 'standard' and easily swapable bases, plus square road segments of various configurations. The logical plan is to base the system on the standard base plate widths (8, 16 and 32 studs). Unless I wanted extremely wide roads, I found that the only sensible width would be 16 studs. I could use the 8x16 tiles, but I don't want to have to add road markings, plus I liked the idea of having grills built into the road. The bases are basically hollow, with enough support to stop them sagging in the middle. And here's an example of how a section of city would look (minus the actual buildings). I've not yet got as far as considering how I'll squeeze my beloved railways into this system yet, but that'll be the next job (and the job I will *have* to do before I even think of actually using this). One advantage I see is when I have to disassemble my city, I'll be able to easily use things like stations as display settings for my trains without radically dismantling them. As usual, suggestions, feedback and criticisms are welcomed and encouraged.
  5. TurboBrick

    9-Stud Road Baseplates - Ideas?

    Greetings members! First post here and hoping this is the most appropriate forum... So I have a four year old which brought me out of my dark ages, like major relapse. Even though she's been playing/building (mainly Friends) since she was two, I broke down last summer and got "our" first Modular (PR). Since then, we've built six more Modulars, a few 16x32 MOCs, a PUP train, and a table set-up that accommodates thirty (30) 32x32 baseplates. THEN, my parents sent me my sets from the '80s which contain ~14 9-stud road baseplates. At first, I just planned to use them as-is, perhaps in a different part of town with a separate road "circuit" (I also have the modern 6-stud road plates), but there is just too much space to fill, even if I add a tram line. So I'm hoping for pointers... 1) I thought maybe there would be a way to build out some type of transitional plate to go from wide to narrow streets. Despite the jarring color difference, I'm still amenable to this - does anyone have suggestions or done similar with good results? 2) With a whopping 9-studs, should I move the Modulars from their dedicated baseplates to join and take over part of these old streets? I understand the drawbacks there, but don't see much benefit. Note that the layout is U-shaped and "one sided", i.e. 80 studs deep (two 32x32 baseplates with room for one 16x32 plate). 3) Insert a 16 stud base between the road plates and build (likely with jumpers) across all three, creating an alley in the rear of the buildings. I even could use modern 6-stud roads for the facing side and the old plates for the rear alley - in this scenario there would be 31 studs on which to build between the streets, an easy sacrifice for any modular I can think of. Considerations/advice on this method? Should I lift the building base one brick plus jumper plates for stability? I'd planned on lifting the buildings eventually, and doing full tile streets. But there's something charming and unique about the old roads, so I'd like to incorporate them in whole or in part. Comparison for reference:
  6. Confession: I have been wanting to build a Bipolar for a long time, about six years. Longer than the Daylight or my Aerotrain models have been around, even on my computer, and longer than most of my 80+ strong fleet. Now, after years of waiting and thinking, designing and re-developing: it is here! But first, here is what it's based on: The Real life inspiration: The LEGO model of this engine is sitting on the side of the real locomotive. Real life inspiration: From 1919 to 1962, the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad (known as the Milwaukee Road) had these five General Electric-made behemoths pulling trains under the wires on two sections on the Pacific Extension, pulling trains part-way on their journey to Seattle or Chicago. They were called the Bipolar's for each of the locomotive's 12 motors had only two field poles, mounted directly to the locomotive frame beside the axle. The motor armature was mounted directly on the axle, providing an entirely gear-less design. These locos were so powerful they could out-pull modern steam locos, and what used to take two steamers took just one bipolar. However, after a disastrous 1953 rebuilding by the railroad's company shops (who had no clue how to work on a electric loco) the engines were prone to failures and even fire. And so, in 1962, four of them were scrapped with the lone survivor, numbered E-2, towed to the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis Missouri, where it has sat silent even since. LEGO Model: This model was inspired by a 1999 version of the engine built by user legosteveb. I recreated the actual orange, red and black color scheme used on the loco when it emerged from that 1953 modernization program, but it was too expensive. So, after looking around I decided to use the paint scheme the Milwaukee Road used when the engine was donated. This yellow and red scheme was inspired by the Union Pacific and was adopted very late in the engine's career (mid-50's). As both sides are the same except for the headlamp color, I decided to take only one picture of the ends. As you may have noticed, the LEGO version has two "floating" third axle bogies that were inspired by Anthony Sava that allow the engine to float over switches and curves easily. The engine runs beautifully over the little bit of track I have access to, but due to my lack of a layout and tables at the moment, (I've been forced to pack it all up for now) I couldn't get any pictures of that taken. Here is Steve's original model from 1999. Comments, Questions and complaints welcome! EDIT 8/17/18: Well, it's taken about six years of planning, designing, and redesigning, but it's finally on it's way to the real world. The Milwaukee Road "BiPolar" electric locomotive has been ordered as of the 12th in the form as shown. (minus the blue letter overlay I added in MS Paint, of course!) Keep your eyes peeled for real life pictures! EDIT 8/20/18: Real world pictures added!
  7. Cactus Brick will be putting on a Western Display at the 2018 Phoenix Comic Fest this week. To prepare for the display, we had a building competition to encourage creative thinking. Yesterday we held the competition and voted on our favorites. Here are some pictures of my entry to the display. Come check out the rest of the display this week in Phoenix. More pictures on Flickr
  8. From 1919 to 1962, the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad (known as the Milwaukee Road) had these five General Electric-made behemoths pulling trains under the wires from Chicago to Seattle. They were called the Bipolar's for each of the locomotive's 12 motors had only two field poles, mounted directly to the locomotive frame beside the axle. The motor armature was mounted directly on the axle, providing an entirely gear-less design. These locos were so powerful they could out-pull modern steam locos, and what used to take two steamers took just one bipolar. However, after a disastrous 1953 rebuilding by the railroad's company shops (who had no clue how to work on a electric loco) the engines were prone to failures and even fire. And so, in 1962, four of them were scrapped with the lone survivor, numbered E-2, towed to the Museum of Transportation in St. Louis Missouri, where it has sat silent even since, as seen above. The slightly stylized LEGO version of the locomotive was inspired by a 1999 version of the Bipolar electric locomotive built by user legosteveb and by a digital-only design by @Sunder. With this updated, more curvy model, the classic orange and red scheme was impossible, and so as the yellow and red of the previous model type. Thus I was forced to invert the red and yellow to the fictional scheme seen. (The black number boards in front and rear should say "E2" in printed 1 x 1 tiles.0 The loco frame is split in three sections as per the original engine. The front and rear section can pivot slightly to make the engine go around curves. Since the last uploading of this model, the wheels have been re-arranged into two groups of seven (they are joined near the end of the frame, with the exact middle section floating freely between the two ends) and the body of the engine has been extended for a total magnet-to-magnet length of 70 studs. The model should perform well on R40 curves / switches, as this picture attests to it's flexibility.... though until it's built in real life, it will remain untested. The newer model is only 1 plate higher than the previous version, with the same length and width. As you can see, it's my longest single locomotive yet designed with 14 axles total. (I'm not 100% sure my articulation attempts in all the boogies and the frame were enough to work on standard LEGO track, but I guess I'll just have to see when it's built in real bricks latter this year!) The passenger train, and the rear car in particular, were inspired by the Milwaukee Road's Olympian Hiawatha service from Tacoma, Washington to with the rearmost car being a Beaver Tail observation car, which were out of service by 1961. (you can read more about these odd-looking cars here on this Wikipedia page.) Actually, I'm not sure the Beaver-tails were ever used all the way to the West Coast on the Olympian, but since it's LEGO, who really cares! That's all I have done for now, and as usual, questions, complaints, comments and suggestions are always welcome! (real life pictures coming to this topic as soon as possible, but the LDD file for the whole train is available here at Bricksafe)
  9. Dilvish

    SNOT Roads - 45 degree angles

    I've been looking at Mike Gallagher's SNOT roads, in particular this one because it joins two roads at a ~45 degree angle: However, as you can see in the image I made below, it is not *exactly* 45 degrees. Has anyone come up with a working method of joining SNOT roads at regular angles? Thanks.
  10. Inspired by set 4885, (Spider-Man's Train Rescue) this four-car subway train features a removable roof on each car for access to the inside seating. The two black tiles on either end of the train are for the identification numbers / letters, such as the "A" train, or "01", for example. The studs just below the roof are for destination boards, on which you could put "LEGO", "CITY", or any other four (or less!) letter word as a destination for the train. The model is now motorized with power functions in the leads car, and each sections now has pantograph's on each unit which can be raised or lowered as desired. The front one also hides the RC receiver on the motorized unit, but this pantograph cannot be lowered, due to to being too close to the receiver to fully shut down. The four train car's roof sections are removable, and the train is supposed to be made up of two "set units" of four cars total, broken down into two groups of two. Each unit of two could operate individually of the other two if this were a real train, but they can not be broken down any further as they are supposed to be hard-coupled together. (As this is LEGO, however, you can do what you want!) The motor unit lacks seats, but features the battery box and receiver. The roof is removable for battery removal / replacement access. These three trailing cars have 18 seats total (six per car) facing in the relative direction of the "front" of the car. The roof sections are removable for easily placing mini-figures inside the cars. the LDD file is available at brick safe here. As usual, any and all comments, questions and complaints are welcome!
  11. This is Lego's 42056 Porsche 911 GT3 RS set with some unique rallycross-inspired features I added making it the perfect sports car to drive in the snow. Features Suspension system raised to make the car about two studs higher Wheels and tires from the 42037 Formula Off-Roader Mudflaps LED light bar Front off-road lights Rear bash bars Optional snowplow that attaches to the front The lights are fake and don't turn on, and all of the other lime-colored pieces are from the 42037 set as well. I had a lot of fun making this. I just had to switch of the area of the springs to change the height for the rear without any pieces needed, but for the front, I had to remove the entire Porsche's body to make the lift there using a variety of pieces. Overall, I'm proud that a got the result I wanted, which was making the Porsche 911 GT3 RS higher (so it wouldn't bottom out) and equipping it with off-road features so I could have fun with this set in the winter. It does need to drive in snow only about an inch high so I could move it without getting stuck (and so the plow can move the snow too). I recommend to anyone who has the Porsche set to try these mods out for themselves this winter! Here's some more pictures of the car and a desktop wallpaper that I created wishing everyone at EuroBricks Happy Holidays!
  12. I built this station with set the 2007 CITY set 7997 in mind. I got the original set in 2007, along with a double rail crossover for my Birthday that year. I wanted to make it a full building but didn't have the parts. By 2008, I had discovered Bricklink, but the station was in pieces by then and was not re-created until early 2012. The station was a stock set, while I searched for ideas. Eventually, I came across a build by a fellow Eurobricks user named Lazarus that incorporated a modular basis, a full building (street & track-sides) & a appealing design. I saved a picture of it and made my own design based on his. I included really neat features, (such as the arched lattice windows made with a fence) but I went too far and made it impossible to transport to train shows and LUG meetings. The platforms were very flimsy om the XL baseplates, and during the move to my families current house, it shattered into small chunks. So, I went back to the drawing board, scrapping everything but the building itself. Here is the end result, which is strangely near where I started with set 7997. It has one platform, plentiful outside seating on the platform, and is red instead of yellow. There are many changes from the set, (no stairs on the platform, for example.) but the heart and soul of that 2007 set is still there. The row of studs on both track and street sides should say the station name in printed 1 x 1 tiles. This sign currently says "IRONWOOD", as that's the name of my city layout. The model is now 8 studs deeper, allowing for more room for my hands when being worked on. Here we can see the street side of the station with it's new wheelchair access ramp. Here we can see the interior of the station, with blue ticket machines, seating, and snack bar on the first floor. The train tracking / switching controls are located on the second floor along with the employees - only coffee machine with paper cups.. This printed part here provides the computer display screen. Here you can see the modular breakdown of the model, which includes the following: -Station building (lower floor) -Station roof and Tower control room (upper floor) -Tower roof -left platform section -right platform section The LDD file is here, in case anyone wants to built their own version. (I will be building this version soon, most likely before Christmas.) Comments, Questions & Complaints welcome!
  13. Stud-Count: 12.126 / 10.000 Valid submissions: 7 / 16 details: Elostirion: 22x24 and 1.310 (total 1.838) Bregir: 32x64 and 32x32 (total 3.072) Captain Braunsfeld: 48x81 (total 3.888) dr_spock: 32x32 (total 1.024) SilentWolf: 32x32 (total 1.024) CaptWolf: 32x40 (total: 1.280) Winners: Bregir Bregir Elostirion Shareholders (19 shares in total): Captain Braunsfeld: 2 shares (buying-right for 5 total) -> 60 DBs / month Bregir: 6 shares -> 180 DBs / month Eslandola: 4 shares -> 120 DBs / month (were: Elostirion 120 DBs / month till October 617 AE) Capt Wolf: 2 shares -> 60 DBs / month dr_spock: 1 share -> 30 DBs / month SilentWolf: 1 share -> 30 DBs / month Ownership: Eslandola (was: Elostirion till 617 AE) handled by @Capt Wolf Payment status: December 616 AE: yield received, payments to Bregir, CaptWolf, Silent Wolf done (all payments) January 617 AE: yield received, all payments done February 617 AE: yield received, all payments done March 617 AE: yield received, all payments done April 617 AE: yield received, all payments done May 617 AE: yield received, all payments done June 617 AE: yield received, all payments done July 617 AE: yield received, all payments done August 617 AE: yield received, all payments done September 617 AE: yield received, all payments done October 617 AE: yield received, all payments done
  14. This model was part of a recreation of the not-yet-released set 10259 (Winter Village Train Station) by user @JopieK (many thanks to him for the file!) over on this post seen here. I added some of my own touches, including a second level with spiral staircase and a change from yellow to blue for the color scheme. The rear of the bus features a slightly hidden spare tire behind the stairs. The model has a opening entry / exit door at the front of the bus and each level comes off individually. The staircase is attached at two points: a four-stud connection to the second level, and a single stud to the lower level. The staircase comes off easily when needed, but is sturdy enough not to fall off at the wrong time. As usual, Comments, Questions and Complaints are always welcome!
  15. spirogero

    [MOC] Truck road

    George Legoman builds trucks. He needed a display for his builds. So, I built for him a road, in the style of E65. side by Spiros Geropoulos, on Flickr More on FlickR. 65 cm width, 2 m length.
  16. Here's a quick overview of the MILS standard. For those who haven't heard it of it, it is a standard published by the Hispabrick magazine to help coordinate diorama building between Lego builders. It also is a great foundational tool for learning how to make more advanced builds. Hope you enjoy! I have other videos on my channel with instructions on how to make the various modules.
  17. LegoSjaak

    Lego Road tiling design.

    I made a design for a 48x48 studs baseplate in Excel and will use 4 baseplates in total to make a 'U' shaped road, with parkinglots on the inside.. The Dark Bluish Grey road is wide enough. Along it, you can find the parking lots, and the middle section could contain lampposts, parkingmeters, trees, benches, garbagebins and so on as well! This road should cover the light bluish grey 48x192 area that is still empty! Here some pictures!
  18. Willworkfortoys

    Modifying / Removing Print from Road Plates

    I'm looking for a solution for removing print from lego baseplates. On a 4-way intersection plate I tested alcohol method, brasso method, eraser method and sanding. My findings are that alcohol removes easiest, brasso the best and cleanest, eraser had little to no effect on baseplates and sanding is a great way to ruin a baseplate (as I suspected but I had to try). Now, the problem is I've searched and searched and all print removing threads seem to pertain to minifigures/torsos or other printed parts and not to road plates which I suspect use a slightly (chemically) different type of printing. In addition while brasso does work my intention is to remove all printing from the 4-way baseplates and make an airbrush template to make them appear as normal straight road plates with a parking stall on either side. I want to do this to 8+ plates and brasso will take the better part of forever to achieve. Is there a resource for what type of print is used on the plates so that a chemical bath can be designed to dissolve print without affecting the plate? Any help is appreciated or links that I may have somehow missed in my many many searches. Thanks!
  19. On the Grand Road of Nellisa, near Nova Terreli, is a small roadside tavern. Today is delivery day, and the tavern owner and his family are happy to see the brewer's cart arrive. The tavern owner's handyman rolls the kegs of beer into the tavern... ...and the brewer's workman loads the empty kegs onto his cart to take back to the brewery. The road is still muddy in places from a recent rain, but the old draft horse doesn't mind. It's better than a hard, dusty road, and the trip back to the brewery will be much lighter pulling empties instead of full kegs. *************************************************** This build is 1280 studs (32x40). I'm submitting it for consideration in categories A (Action on the Road) and M1 (Nova Terreli: Merchants). All C&C welcome!
  20. caravancarlos

    Lego Road

    Hi All Im looking a building a road for my lego city and was going to use bricks. I have a few questions: If you build a road out of bricks how do you build a pavement next to it that is higher than the road? How do you build a junction and have the road join up? As Ive said I have never built this before and would like to buy the right bricks. The bricks I am buying are 1x4 size bricks with 1x4 white and yellow bricks for the white lines and single/double yellow lines Does anyone know of anything else I would need? Cheers Carl
  21. soccerkid6

    Nordheim Paddock

    This is the second module for the collab that John and I are building. You can see the first, here. The hay cart has steerable front wheels, and the shelter’s gate can open and close. There are many small farms outside Nordheim’s walls, and cattle paddocks with lean-to shelters are a common sight. There are more pictures on brickbuilt. Thanks for looking, all your feedback is appreciated
  22. DrJosephMosch

    Brickbuilt roads for my modular layout.

    Hello all, I have never really been fond with the options we have regarding roads. Especially in combination with the modular buildings. The official roadplates just look plain wrong in my opinion and you have the additional rows of studs to cover. also they are not very flexible in their usage. The same goes for tiled roads, although they are much more flexible. So I decided to build SNOT-roads to accomondate street parking, bikelanes and sidewalks. As anybody who also tried this may know, this kind of project is incredibly expensive. Coincidally on Saint Patricks day I got a decent bonus at work and also pretty drunk afterwards. So perfect conditions to make a half dozen bricklink orders. Anyway, here are the pictures: The first test module I have made featuring on street parking, a green strip, a protected cycle path and enlarged sidewalks with wheelchair accessible ramps. I made all of the street modules at the most 48 studs long for them to be transportable. They interlock using technik pins. Here is the same module integrated in the City: The most tedious part was to move my modulars to their new baseplates, which are raised by one brick and connect to the roads firmly. Two fingernails and one brick seperator were lost in the process... To add some depth(pun intended) and to span the empty hole between the two shelfes the layout is on I constructed a small river with walkways and a bridge above. Still waiting for some bricks for the bridge. The other side of the river. With bike lanes, a bike rack and a small park. Bus stop and junction with the soon to be very busy pedestrian street. I'm open to hear your feedback, criticism and opinions and will gladly answer any questions.
  23. halixon

    The Road to Midgardia

    (Please note, this is a story focused on two of Aeldric's new rangers, and takes place after Aeldric finds Dar Askelohn and is made captain of the rangers of Albion) Next Chapter: Coming Soon Genic (The Human in the brown hood) and Cathras (The Redhead Elf) had just been recruited by Aeldric and assigned a task to head north to Mitgardia to investigate the potential threat of the Algus. On their way, they passed a small ranger set-up. A small bit of scaffolding was strewn about, most likely for higher positions and better points of view on the roads. Aeldric had issued for several of these camps to be dotted across the roads of Avalonia for the denizen's safety. Aeldric had also begun to recruit many races, other than originally human. From elves, to even dwarves. Though, Aeldric was cautious about which dwarves he recruited, as some of them can be a bit to friendly... Without figs: Back of the scaffolding: --- Anyways, let me know what you think! C & C welcome, and remember, this story takes places after Aeldric has found Dar Askelohn, and is named captain of the rangers of Albion.
  24. Previous Chapter: Voraal leaves Avalonia --- Next Chapter: The Kelra And thus Aeldric was off to Nocturnus, to avenge not only Aurthal, but his family as well. He crossed many ruins of times' past. He wondered what structures many of them served as. He passed a few dead looking vines that seemed to reach out towards him. He looked far off into the distance, and saw the ominous and towering Rakath Mountains. He knew he would have to pass through the Kelra Labyrinths to get to Axtrous' dwelling, but he had confidence. --- So guys, i'm not sure how i should present Aeldric's journey through the Labyrinth, perhaps some of you Nocties could give me some insight. Anyways, C&C are welcome.
  25. The Oil Road The Battle for the Bloody Lane(WZ9:G7) For the Desert King! Mummy soldiers have been posted along the Oil Road to ensure the interests of the Desert King are preserved along its winding way. The mummies maintain order, and protect traders along the route from trouble rousers… such as these two Ulandians harassing an elderly merchant on the way to Mophet. “We are hungry and he carries pastries! We will not let some dead rags stop us from taking what we want! Aaarrgh!” The first Ulandian charges towards the mummy soldiers whilst the second was preparing to slink away. Hearing his comrade’s cry (and his own grumbling stomach), spurns him to action as well. Snick The first Ulandian’s head is sliced cleanly from his body, and the remaining soldier drops his spear. “I surrender – the Desert King is the best king ever! Please don’t hurt me! I’ll be good!” And here's just the road: