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Found 156 results

  1. So i was browsing some Traxxas RC cars, and noticed the Summit had an interesting setup for suspension. Its very unique from what types I've seen before, so i thought, is it possible with Technic? I've seen you guys make some pretty amazing setups, but i cant imagine what kind of parts you could use to make this and does it have a name? i thought i knew but forgot.
  2. This is a large short-course style stadium truck built with Lego Mindstorms Ev3. It features independent rear suspension and a front live axle with steering. One Medium Motor controls the steering, and one Large Motor drives the rear wheels. It also uses the InfraRed Sensor for Remote Control. The reasons I used only one motor in this model are: 1. I was attempting to reduce weight, 2. The chassis of the truck is even studs wide, not odd; not allowing a very easy placement of two motors, 3. This vehicle was built as a test vehicle for the new 4-stud wide differential I got a while back but never used until now. The drawbacks of this truck are: 1. One motor does not exert nearly enough power, 2. The old-type differential makes it impossible to not use more gears in order to transfer the power, 3. All the gears used decreases efficiency massively, 4. The rear independent suspension worsens performance, 5. A 3:5 gear ratio was used (a 1:3 would have been better), 6. The truck is very large, bulky, and heavier than most other robots that I have built. I extremely apologize for the audio/video sync issues, I have no idea why the video turned out that way. Music: http://www.bensound.com [] Extra pictures coming soon! []
  3. In the last couple of months I have, amongst other projects, been working on the rerelease of Truck T12. Because the detachable gooseneck lowboy "Trailer Tr4 MkII" can be combined with my previously released trucks and with Technic set 8258 it is why I released it first. Instructions for this lowboy have been asked so many times that I thought it would make sense to start with it. Normally I start with a truck followed by a trailer to join it. Model "Truck T12 MkII" and is build after the Mack Granite with LEGO® in scale 1:17,5 and motorized using LEGO® Power Functions. It is a model of a Mack Granite 6x4 day cab truck. Both the looks and specifications are adjusted to match lowboy ”Trailer Tr4 MkII” and the optional jeep and booster ”Trailer Tr4 MkII Add1”. This rather heavy lowboy trailer combination, which might include a load, requires some extra power.Even though this truck is designed to go with ”Trailer Tr4 MkII” plus ”Trailer Tr4 MkII Add1” lowboy combination in the first place, it doesn’t necessarily mean it can't be used with other available trailers as well. If you prefer to give it a flat bed or log trailer, you are free to do so! If a different trailer is used it might be useful to give this truck's drivetrain a various gear setup. For this a separate PDF file is available that tells you what gear reductions to use with which trailer. It also shows you how to do so. Evidently the torque will be reduced, but with lighter weight trailers that is no problem at all. This Mack Granite model is powered by a Mack MP8 engine which is visible with the hood opened. This power source is an inline 6 cylinder engine with a displacement of 13.0 L. The horsepower range is from 425 up to 505 HP and this engine has a torque range from 1570 to 1760. You could build it yourself, building instructions and inventory/parts list are available. You will be very excited from the moment you start the build of "Truck T12 MkII" till you finish it with about 360 different parts totaling 1900 pieces.
  4. Hi! It's been quite a while since I managed to put something together and even longer since I managed to put it "on paper". I'd like to present you my latest, and already an old MOC, may it rest in pieces, The Red Pitbull Terrier! At first, this one was supposed to be my noble steed for the unfortunately canceled winter trial truck (kinda) competition organised by our national LUG. Stressed out due cancelation, this horsey grew bigger and fatter than it was ment to be for the actual race. I admit, it is rather fugly, but it was a lot of fun to build and drive also. I am especially happy about how did the suspension come out - the tracks adapt(ed) to the surface very smoothly and there is no bending of the road wheels towards the outside. Thanks to our EB colleague Kelkschiz and his I learned, that what I've built is called a Christie tank suspension . As a keen eye will certainly notice, I used the small shock absorbers with normal springs. Only when I put the cab on, I learned that the front road wheels had to be suspended on hard springs, because the weight of the cabin was pulling the whole truck's front down. My intention was, to build the tracks like a module with spring inside this module, which would then be attached to the hull. After several trial and error iterations, I abandoned that idea, because I didn't manage to eleminate the bending of the road wheels towards the sides of the truck. I ended up attaching each road wheel one after another, kinda like stitching and prepared me quite some "fun" for disassembly As for the hull, I thought I managed to seal the bottom and the sides of it quite well, but that damn half melted snow reached every dark corner of that ogre anyway! As you can see on the photo below, I decided that this puppy should run on four PF XL motors, with all sprocket wheels driven. The motors were geared down just a bit (12/20 -> 1/1.67). I really recommend those "new" wheel hubs for mounting the sprocket wheels - they hold as Kragle and I don't recall the tracks ever slipping of them, as it seems it often happens when sprocket wheels are mounted on axles only, as they tend to bend. As you can see, I built some kind of a gutter for the tracks , so that no return wheels were needed. That two stud wide gutter in combination with the mudguards also kept the tracks tucked in nice, preventing them to slip off. Some transversal girders were also used to make both sides of the suspension sturdier. A nice, warm pit remained in the center of the hull for two AAA battery boxes. Two sets of 63 tracks were used. The motors were connected in pairs, each pair to its own V2 IR receiver. The receivers were placed under the hood of the cab, therefore a fake cooling fan. Although the tracks tend to slip, I decided not to mount any transversal ribs on them and went for a tight fit with the muguards. So here it is, with some accessories to make it look badass - at least that was my intention . Final dimensions are approximately W/L/H = 48/25/26 studs. Weight: 2.3 kilos. Two sets of PF LED lights were used, each powered by one of the BB's, so they were lit all the time. I tried to make the cab look a bit like the older tracked trucks that goooooogle provided me with. I had those transclear dome pieces for a while so I tried them out as a bulb for the lights. I still can't say whether I like the outcome or not. Can someone please explain why would somebody need turn signals in the middle of Syberia??? I sure can't say :laugh: ! The cab was somewhat fun to build because it starts with even width and ends with odd. Lately I really like Technic creations to be manned, so there are my three brave soldiers, kicking winter and bora in the face! I hope you like it, otherwise feel free to rip me apart P.S.: Yes, there is . I was, again, foolish enough to edit the video along with music that is under copyright, so the actual music you'll be hearing is just barely coherent with the cuts... I recommend listening to the "original" music which should be in the video, but it got shot down due forementioned world of legal stuff etc... I provided the link at the begining of the video. I must also add, that this baby was named after that song...I hope this little naivity of mine won't degrade your opinion on this build.Cheers, miha P.P.S.: I hope my "hero-doesn't-go-pro" didn't make any of you sick because of all the shaking... My fair lady provided me her LG G3, which I abused on this torture tool Thx baby.
  5. Hallo! I'm using Lego Digital Designer for a few days in order to create a driven, steered and individually suspended portal axle with a realistic pivot point. But I failed to combine all aspects. My endurance has expired. So, is there anyone who wants to accept the challenge and solves this problem. I would be grateful about a lxf-file. Thanks!
  6. Hello everyone, Here's my newest MOC, a Mercedes G-Class. After months of hard work, and bugs and fixes, it's finally finished. It was built to incorporate all of the best elements of high-torque gearing with a compact bodywork. It features: -Drive - 2 x XL, geared 4.5 : 1 -Steering - 1 x Servo -Lights - 6 x LED with hidden switch -Suspension - pendular A video showing all features: Pictures:
  7. I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy!
  8. Hy the video of Sariel inspired me. He said that it was difficult to make suspension on it. At that moment i came with the idea to use indepent suspension. this is what came out of the idea. DSC_0005_3[1] by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr[/img] thanks PS: could Mods put the pictures and video's in topic?( I tried but it didn't work)
  9. Hey all, I have been working on an MAN SL202 in the Redbus NZ paint scheme: This model has full suspension including an auto-kneeling function where when the front door is opened the front left air suspension is lowered. I have built most of the chassis and the front and rear suspension, but as you will see the front suspension needs a complete overhaul due to steering problems. Time to stop rambling on and give you some images Air hoses are for the kneeling. Rear view. Front view of front suspension, not the left side wheel is over-rotating when steering and causes the wheel to lock at a right angle to the chassis and stopping forward movement. When it is able to drive the steering is at a bad angle when straight and this causes a large amount of resistance. When the steering is turned the geometry is way off and causes major sledging and resistance. The front axle when kneeling. The pump and RC switch for the suspension lowering and raising. Rear suspension design. Rear suspension's range of movement. Chassis view. So as you can see the project is coming along nicely but the front axle suspension needs a complete overhaul so any designs that work well would be greatly appreciated These photos and more can be found in a bigger size on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kiwi_Builder/Technic.
  10. So it took me a while but the Cadillac ATS is finally done. Much more at thirdwigg.com Here are some pictures: Features: opening hood opening trunk four opening doors opening glove box working rear center armrest 6 Speed manual transmission with single pivot point limited slip differential rear independent suspension with increasing negative camber front independent suspension with increasing negative camber, kingpin inclination, and ackerman geometry a full size spare tire three interchangeable engine options to meet your needs or budget Video is . Enjoy.
  11. ThePlasticWerks

    [TECHNIQUE] Mixel Steering!

    Behold, six-wide steering based on Mixels joints! I am upgrading my fleet of Lego Xterras with this neat technique that I thought up early last week. For more info, see them here: http://www.eurobrick...topic=90846&hl= So, it's pretty straightforward: Technic friction ball/pin connector and Mixels 1x2 socket plates. On the Super Xterra, retaining the solid axle articulation! See below. On the regular Xterra, which is based on the Great Vehicle build style, there's much less room to move and the effect is very subtle. The joints have enough friction to stay wherever they're set. Again, subtle effect with a semi-standard City build due to lack of clearance, but it can steer! Utilizing the other axis, the Mixel joints coupled with the solid axle in the rear give a pretty convincing impression of independent suspension. The steering effect really shines when your vehicle is lifted to the heavens: Somebody needs an alignment! Oh dear. (another very convincing independent suspension effect :p) And coupled with some extra articulation... The one downside I've found is that, due to the friciton pins, the articulated wheels don't spin very freely (though it's advantageous for posing). Enjoy, and spread the word!
  12. Back in August I was inspired by gsia17's Citroen Saxo preview to build a rally car.Sadly I don't have a buggy motor so I made the next best thing, a large scale model of the best rally car in the history of man kind, the Audi 80 Quattro Rally. This was my hardest build yet; it had many firsts for me. I used the 42000 Grand Prix's hubs for the double wishbone independent suspension on all wheels. I had trouble making the front suspension, steering, and power transfer with a differential so I made it hard coupled. I used CV joints with the 42000 steered hubs for the front which makes it have a terrible steering angle. Some pictures: A preview video is on my YouTube channel but I am editing the main video right now. I will update this post tomorrow and/or in days to come. Thank You, Epic Technic Please give comments, I want to know how to improve and what did well! :)
  13. My latest release, a log trailer with three axles of which the last one is liftable. It comes in two color schemes to match both "US Truck T1 MkII" and "US Truck T2 MkII". Model "Trailer Tr3 MkII” is build with LEGO® in scale 1:17,5 and motorized using LEGO® Power Functions. It is not build after a specific brand or type of trailer. This build represents a three axle log trailer with liftable third axle. The trailer features: solid axle suspension on all axles, one set of lights, kingpin, remotely controlled landing gear and parking break, remotely controlled liftable third axle that simultaneously extends or retracts the rear impact guard and this model has many details. This newly designed and engineered trailer utilizes the same suspension as US Truck T2 MkII which uses LEGO® rubber belts and LEGO® rubber axle connectors. This model is another custom design by Ingmar Spijkhoven AKA 2LegoOrNot2Lego that comes with building instructions and inventory/parts list! You can build it yourself! To do so you can buy the Building Instructions. Early in the building process you will see what it is that you are building. You will be very excited from the moment you start the build of "Trailer Tr3 MkII" till you finish it with a total number of parts of about 1000 pieces. Simultaneously with lifting the third axle the rear impact guard is retracted. So with the third axle down the rear impact guard is fully extended, this to increase safety when hauling loads. Unloaded the total length of the combination is reduced with the third axle lifted and the rear impact guard in. As with most log trailers this model has so called bolsters or bunks. Those are the U shaped frames on top of the trailers chassis. Bolsters are obviously necessary to keep the logs in place. Even though the bolsters on this specific model are fixed they can easily be re-located if wanted. The number of six can also be altered to your own needs. Give this trailer the setup you want it to have. Cheers, Ingmar Spijkhoven
  14. Hello everyone, I’ve just bought RC motor and I wanted to make a relatively simple and fun to drive off-road vehicle. Here is my first off-road MOC: Video of driving outdoors with basic info: Short review and indoor action (jumps and drift): Basically, I tried to make it as light as possible – it weighs 502g. It is 35 studs long, 19 studs wide and 16 studs high. Drive: 1 RC motor (outer output) directly connected to the rear wheels - RWD only. Relatively long travel suspension (front independent, rear dragged axle), and decent ground clearance. 8878 battery is in the middle, set lowest possible, for better weight distribution. Also there are few details in the interior. The IR receiver is hidden between battery and the servo (to save space, it partly goes under the servo motor). Servo motor for steering (with 4 round plates at each side also acts as a fake V8 engine under the hood). Doors and hood can be open, they come with safety locks to prevent unwanted opening - very often on rough terrain For sense of scale, here it is next to my 9398 Crawler: At the end, I really need to share my impressions about RC motor. It is really impressive, especially after I got used to the characteristics of the PF motors and tried almost every combination (PF motors&batteries) to achive better performance Of course, I knew it is fast, but nevertheless, you should've seen huge smile on my face on the first test drive. I wish I could turn back time and buy it earlier! More photos can be found at: MOCpages - http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/397115 Flickr - https://www.flickr.c...57647629179022/ All in all, this turned out to be very fun to play MOC, hope you'll like it…
  15. A little video showing a suspension concept: The suspension is tatra-style, not double wishbone. But it is simple and works well enough for my needs. Uses the lego rubber pieces in the place of shock absorbers to save space, and can be built onto a servo motor with as little hassle as possible. I am pleased that the pivot points are all aligned such that the wheels do not steer themselves when the suspension is actuated. Overall a neat concept that I hope to incorporate into my future small-scale MOCs.
  16. Few years ago I made the first big scale portal axles... Now its time to do same at small scale! Here's the result: The axle has a 1:2 portal gear ratio and uses the CV joints for steering. Steering is done via 7 stud long steering rack. Its meant for lighter smaller scale models, like the ones Madoca77 is famous for. I also made some variations of the axle and to top it off I also added the mini 8x8 tatra chassis. You can download the LDD file here: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/zblj/Ideas/MiniAxles/mini_drive_axles.lxf Some video footage: So what model should I make with these? Please vote! Thanks!
  17. Hello, I have been busy this summer and haven't done much building, and the offroad project on my desk will most likely be taken apart because of some doubts of the eventual performance. After spending some time in Silicon valley with NSLC, I noticed the many Tesla vehicles in the area, and was inspired to make another road-going vehicle. This time I want to focus on making a proper suspension setup based on either the Tesla Roadster or Model S, as well as a slightly different drivetrain in order to make room for the rear axle setup. The reason I made this topic is to get some useful info about parts I could use in order to recreate these setups as realistically as possible while still retaining strength, as I hope to use them in an RC MOC capable of 19+ kmh. Here are the photos: Lotus/Tesla Roadster front suspension: Model S front suspension: It doesn't have to look exactly the same, but rather perform the same functions. As for scale, the shock absorber I plan to use is this one:
  18. I present my latest MOC, a 6x4 Dump Truck: Click pictures for highres, or visit the BrickSafe folder if you want to It is based off of the chassis I made for my 8x4 Recovery Truck last year, but obviously has lost an axle, and been adopted for remote control with Power Functions. It features: -Drive with two XL-motors -Steering with Servo-motor -Independent suspension on front axle -Live axle suspension on rear axles -Dumpable bed with one M-motor and two LAs -Openable cabin -Openable doors -V6 engine driven from both rear axles, via a lockavle central differential -PF LEDs up front -PF LED reversing lights I found a sloution to steer the rear axle, using a turntable and a linkage to the servo motor, combined with pendular suspension, but it had too much slack, and wobbled all over the place, so I ditched it. I also made a mechanism to lift and lock the rearmost axle, but that to turned out less than satisfactory, so I ditched that as well Pictures! There you can see the red lever above the XL-motor, that engages the central diff The bed is quite spacious I was unsure if the M-motor would be sufficient to tip the bed, but it turned out very well, and it has no problem, even with some load! Close up of the tipping LAs. The driving rinf you can see above the rearmost axle is from the locking mechanism I tried to make, that didn't work. I then forgot to take it out Here the cabin is tilted forward. The battery box is held in a solid structure behind the cabin, as you can see. The servo for steering is placed vertically just below the battery box. Close-up of the V6 engine, including "twin turbochargers" The side panels taken off the battery box compartment, shows the wiring and placement of the servo At the front of the bed, we have a spare wheel, and some tools ...for when you need to change a tyre (obviously) The rear axles with left wheels removed for better view. You can also see where the tipping LAs are attached And of course, the under belly shot An LDD representation of the drive line. Green is where the power from the two XLs come from, purple is the axle to the engine, cyan and orange are axles 2 and 3 respectively. All in all I am pretty pleased with the result, as I've been wanting to build this for a long time! Hope to make a video of it in the not too distant future! I will also perfect the LDD model, make it available for those who want it, and post it on rebrickable. I might even make instructions for it, if I fin the time, and can get LDraw to work again
  19. I was trying to figure out if this part could be used with or , or if the ball is too close to the tile for there to be much (if any) movement possible. LDraw suggests that it doesn't work well, but CAD can be misleading. Could someone who has that part try it? Thank you!
  20. Hi all! This is my first idea/entry for the mini contest. It's a supercar with the color variation of classic technic sets. First I make it in LDD to see the parts count, now it's exactly 200. Two 1x4 red plate is missing from the LDD model, they connect the 11 and 15 L liftarms. They will also give the rigidity of the body. I tried to put in all of the regular supercar functions: - independent suspension (front&rear) - steering with working steering wheel - two speed gearbox - rear wheel drive - V6 fake engine There are some more little features. The front suspension's bottom swingarm is longer than the upper one, this means more reality in the front axle. The gearbox is linear, the two dkblgray pulleys are responsible for extension in the drive line. They look like clutch plates in real cars. The suspension works with original Lego rubber bands. It's nearly finished, but maybe some improvements (like instrument panel decal) will be done in the next weeks: More pictures, video, part list is coming soon.
  21. I have been releasing a couple of rebuild in the last couple of months. This has been very satisfying also because of the building instructions I released with them. So many enthusiastic people all around the glove are building my MOCs. Never the less, here is a completely new build: Model "Trailer Tr10" is build with LEGO® in scale 1:17,5 and motorized using LEGO® Power Functions. It is not build after a specific brand or type of trailer. This build represents the well known typical US style spread or split axle flatbed trailer. Another custom design that comes with building instructions and inventory/parts list! Never did I hide my preference for flatbed and log trailers. Basically because this adds the most playability to a build. Once I build this refer and even though it was much fun building, there was no fun running around with it. The weight of this model exceeds the limits of what my semi-trucks are designed to haul. So that I why I build another flatbed, this time without a drop in its deck. Again does this build feature full solid axle suspension on both axles, three sets of lights, kingpin, remotely controlled landing gear and parking break and many details, but it also features toolboxes and a remotely controlled liftable rear axle. Even though it is not very common for this type of trailer to have a liftable rear axle I implemented it anyways. Mainly because of two reasons: A) One channel of the PF IR Receiver is used to operate the landing gear which engage/disengage the parking brake simultaneously. One channel was left to be used. Obviously the second one is used to raise and lower the liftable rear axle. B) The more tires means more rubber equals more friction. To reduce the drawback of it when it comes to playability the most rear axle is liftable. What basically happens is this mechanism forces the suspension to bottom out. Where normally weight would engage the suspension to act now there is this lever that does the work. For this reason this axle is sprung soft, but the the first axle is sprung hard. With the second axle lifted the first axles has to be stiff enough to bare the trailers empty weight. The axle setup of a spread axle trailer is not just randomly picked. It really has a purpose and it all is related to weight. Commonly this axle configuration is mostly found on flatbeds, car haulers and refrigerated trailers. As described this is a typical US style trailer. Cheers, Ingmar Spijkhoven
  22. Hi Eurobrick members, I would like to show you my latest MOC, a Toyota Hilux off road pickup: Uses 2 L motors, Servo, and Lipo battery and V2 receiver. The body can be taken, but not very easily: More info and pics at my website below. Also a video will be coming as soon as possible.
  23. Hi! Soon, I'll show to you new little rally car with rear independent suspension and rear drive. But rally car must be AWD, so I build small front suspension *cardan has free lift under load without stoppes I'm going to build audi quattro or toyota celica with this system. May be you have another ideas for it?
  24. Theres been a lot of activity lately on this forum so I decided to share my latest build: A Jeep Wrangler 4x4- in a rock crawler kind of configuration. Here's what I have at the moment: I used a similar idea to what efferman had on his Mercedes G, by using the L motor as the supporting linkage to the chassis directly. And that means NO UNIVERSAL JOINTS leading to the axle itself, only for the front axle steering pivots do you need them, which if you ask me is the biggest restraint on rock crawlers made of lego as well tires. Now I've test driven this all over the place today and it crawls amazingly with a gear ratio of only 12/20 with no diffs and 2 L motors. The problem is that the front axle is too weak, the drivetrain is perfect, but the axle itself is not strong enough to keep the steering rack and axle/hubs from being pushed apart by the Servo. The U-joint and CV joint are also positioned a certain distance apart and this distance is not an ideal length for an axle to connect the two joints which causes me to lose steering after sometime. This is what happens- the 2L red axles are the only mounting point so once that looses connection the top part of the axle rotates over on itself including the steering rack. And even after all that I've had the wheel and hub come off on me twice so far while driving. Despite all these annoying problems it crawls exceptionally well and does not have to be geared down several times so it drives on flat ground at about walking speed. The body will be mounted pretty low, so the top of the hood will be right above the shocks to keep a low-ish center of gravity. If you have any solutions to these problems they would be appreciated, thanks. Just realized after posting that the WIP is wIP, Jim if you read this could you change it to (WIP) when you get the chance?
  25. Here is my lastest car. The classic Volkswagen Beetle, officialy called Type 1, or informally in some places around the world the VW Bug. This car received a lot of modifcations and improvements along the years, I have built the 1967 model. This car is made in scale 1:7.8. The total size is: 65 studs of length, only 25 wide and 23 of high (50x20x18 cm) The weight is 2.5 kgs, with around 3000 parts and 5 motors. As always it includes some remote controlled functions: - Steering (M motor) - Drive (2 XL motors) - Sequential gearbox (PF Servo motor) - Brakes (M motor) The sequential gearbox is a modified version of the Mustang's gearbox (3rd Gen V2), with 4+N+R speeds and as always with auto-clutch. The speeds ratio: R - 1.25:1 1 - 1.25:1 2 - 1:1 3 - 1:1.33 4 - 1:1.67 The max speed in 4th speed is 4 kph (~2.5 mph) It has a gear indicator in the interior, between the front seats. Boxer-4 fake engine under the rear bonnet. The bodywork Also you can disassembly the bodywork removing only 5 pins, do it is very easy and fast. A complete bodywork with openable doors, front trunk bonnet and and rear engine door. Also the doors have lock, you need turn the door handle to open it. It has 4 full size seats and folding front seats. The suspension is based in the real one: front rigid beam independent suspension axle and rear swing axle. Also the front axle has stabilizer bar. The steering has ackerman geometry and working steering wheel. The car also has working brakes in all wheels: disc brakes in the fron and drum brakes in the rear. In addition it includes functional brake pedal. Now the "most wanted" picture for technic fans. Like the Mustang the instructions will be available coming soon Finally as always a little video: As always for more info visit my website: sheepo.es