Hrafn

@Carsten Svendsen my first thought would be to try https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=44374#T=C doubled up it gives you 6 blades, then you can align successive pairs on the same axle at 30 degrees offset between each pair. But that gives you too much twist… hm. For augers, I have seen other builders use flex axles twisted in a helix around an axle, to give a sense of the auger’s edge.

@Jundis, neither. I would use 12z double bevel gears instead - the knob wheels wear quickly and I have been told they are inefficient because they don’t mesh closely.

Between https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=87408&idColor=11#T=C&C=11 and the portal axle? I would try that out and see if it is feasible before worrying about the placement of the servo - you are cramming a lot of complexity in there.

@Technic tango how were you planning on steering that swing axle bogie module? Can you use skid steering on it?

Fair enough! 😁

As usual I have over-complicated things. Have a motor drive one side of a differential; have the output be the other side; add friction to the housing by meshing it with a gear on a friction pin. When the output is blocked because the lift has reached the top or bottom, the housing will spin instead of the output. You can switch any of the elements around - the motor could dive the housing, or the housing could drive the output.

I think so. A lot will depend on the motor, gearing, and load on the output axle. You could use a return to center mechanism like the hockey spring, or, better, Sheepo’s return to center system (I would link to it but his site seems to having issues).

Here is a purely mechanical proof of concept, which works no matter which way the motor is turning. The motor is attached to the red liftarm (Bricksafe cropped the picture). The motor remains on all the time, but when the output axle (with the lime connector and 20z gear) is blocked, the differential housing is blocked as well, and the orange gear selector disengages the red clutch plate from the gray clutch gear. The dark gray 2L liftarm is blocked from rotating more than 90 degrees either way, and acts as a manual switch to re-engage the output axle when desired. Construction notes: The clutch plate is on a smooth 2L axle joiner, not a ridged one. Obviously you would need a rigid structure- this just shows the positions of the parts. And the orange gear selector tends to rotate slightly even when the output isn’t blocked, so it needs some friction or a rubber band or spring to resist that tendency.

For a pure PF solution, connect the motor to one side of a differential, and the PF switch to the other. Drive your mechanism from the differential housing. When your mechanism reaches its limit, the motor will drive the switch, turning itself off. https://bricksafe.com/files/Hrafn/technic-misc/trim.5D0469E9-E870-4EB2-8010-7C0F3476E099.MOV Note that this isn’t a 100% solution since it only drives your mechanism in one direction.

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Great stuff! Is the front suspension based on the TC18 Porsche by @Limga?

This is really great. Thanks for sharing the suspension details, it is a very clean build in this scale. As for terminology, TC18 is a little cryptic, but specific; I have seen it called mid-scale as well. I too wold like a common term for it as I am working in this scale as well.

Such clean bodywork! I would love to see a video or gif of it moving.

I hear you. Maybe if the two parts directly under the headlights were white instead of black?

Making excellent progress! The one thin I am not sure about is the grill - the bit with the Bionicle teeth reminds me of longhorn cattle, which doesn’t fit the rest of the car IMO. Can you maybe flip that portion upside down?