zephyr1934

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  1. zephyr1934

    Converting my 7740 from 12v to 9v

    Ugh! I would suspect that the motor has gone bad. Keep in mind that 4 wagons with 4 12v wheel sets each is a heavy load for a 9v motor. So you probably want to keep your run time down with this configuration. Even with two 9v motors it would still be a heavy load. I know that I had problems with one superchief locomotive and 5 santa fe cars with a single 9v motor, and the 9v wheels have a lot less friction than the 12v wheels. You might want to convert to roller bearing wheels to GREATLY reduce your friction. You can probably get a feel for pulling heavy trains by monitoring the temp of the motor over time. This would be a one time calibration for a given type of train, e.g., 4 cars, one loco and one motor. Run the train as you like it, then about every five min stop and feel the motor, when it starts getting warm to the touch is when you should give it a rest. Note how much time has passed since you started and this is probably about how long you want to run without a break to let the motor cool down. (disclaimer- while this is what I would do, I make no guarantees that it is actually safe for your motors, so proceed at your own risk) At any rate, I have had brand new 9v motors burn out after two days of running at a show even though I would run at most 2 hr on 2 hr off. In terms of motor repair, here's some good links https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/83667-fixing-a-9v-lego-train-motor-with-a-pf-lego-motor/ https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/102241-repairing-worn-out-contacts-on-legacy-9v-train-motors/ Interesting, thanks for the info.
  2. zephyr1934

    [moc] Narrow gauge 0-4-0 logger

    definitely captures the spirit of those minimalist locomotives. It would be interesting to see if it works in real bricks
  3. zephyr1934

    [MOC] Atomic Streamliner

    First off, from your layout it looks like you have a diverging switch right after a curve. That alone can lead to problems with the train coming out of the curve and picking the switch. Probably worse when the locomotive is actually being shoved and also worse when there is a long wheelbase. Second off, I have had problems with TrixBrix switches, but I suspect (and hope, since I've since bought some of their slip switches) it was due to how I was using them. I had them in a dogbone configuration with a R40 curve, TB switch, turning loop. So the layout was exactly the situation I noted in the first point, only worse. I do think that the mechanism in the TB switches is not as nice as that in the lego switches. So when the train ran through the switch the point might not have come all the way back to neutral. Thus, leaving a little gap that increased the possibility of picking the switch. So I would try paying attention to whether running through the switch in the opposite direction (such that the points spring back) increases the chance of problems. If so, you then know that with TB switches you need to be careful to reset them after such a movement. Next, you might want to try putting 1 straight segment between a curve and a diverging switch (or better 2 if you have space). Even if you don't have space to keep it this way if/when the problem occurs you could do a temporary modification to diagnose the situation. But be careful not to adjust how the switch is set, in case it is actually due to the points not returning all the way.
  4. zephyr1934

    Commuter gang HQ

    Looking good, and studs will always be a classic lego feature. Always neat to have a spot on train that also shows what its made out of.
  5. zephyr1934

    Uaai 839 Heavy duty wagon

    Not just a pretty looker, that's some serious engineering in that build. Amazing work! And here's to your next 8k posts (grin)
  6. zephyr1934

    Canadian Pacific RS-18

    I'd suggest designing it so that you can swap between the two options. Having the coupler and stairs integrated with the body will look better for display, but for operation around curves they need to be part of the truck. There's a good chance that if you build it for a straight track layout that you will eventually expand to a loop and will need the truck mounts, but if you design it for both formats you can't go wrong.
  7. zephyr1934

    Lego train 80's layout with all 12V trains

    Wow! Not just the 80's sets, a lot of idea book elements in there too. The kid in me just passed out on the floor.
  8. zephyr1934

    Rechargeable battery alternatives

    Boo! Keep us posted about any other discoveries, thanks for all the exploration thus far
  9. zephyr1934

    Canadian Pacific RS-18

    Ah yes, the small amount of storage on EB is for things like your profile photo, any pictures for posts should be stored on a photo sharing site. Seeing the different angles, a couple of parts you might want to consider, for the cab roof (at which point you could go 7 wide for the cab if you wanted to) for the headlight It would also be interesting to see the bell in pearl gold (even if the prototype has it painted gray) and the number boards in black. Also, I suspect you would want a L motor instead of an M motor. At any rate, looking good
  10. zephyr1934

    BR18 201 Germany Express

    That is an amazing piece of work, great prototype and an equally great job reproducing it!
  11. zephyr1934

    Rechargeable battery alternatives

    I bet you need the remote... but if you do then BlueBrixx should have included a warning in the listings. You might be able to talk them into free shipping for buying a remote if that is the case. Failing that, tell them that you have already begun your review on Eurobricks...
  12. zephyr1934

    Converting my 7740 from 12v to 9v

    From the outside they all look the same, so go with the cheaper as long as the inside meets your needs.
  13. zephyr1934

    Lego LNER A4 "Silver Link"

    Easily recognizable take on a very challenging prototype. To my eye it looks like the dark gray skirt should come out a little more (maybe another snotted plate?) which shouldn't be too difficult to do The one thing would be to try to move the "extra plates" to the inside, e.g., build the dark gray 1 stud wider than the light gray. And it would be great if the top of the dark gray had the continuous curve but that's the feature that makes this prototype so !@#$% difficult. You've made a good compromise with that feature and I can't imagine anything better.
  14. zephyr1934

    Canadian Pacific RS-18

    Definitely a good start and I don't see much to tweak from the profile view except perhaps replace the studs on the cab roof with tiles and extend the deck for the rear runningboards. If you build PF or PUP is there room to hide the battery box and receiver?
  15. zephyr1934

    Narrow gauge motor system

    They're all good and they're all free.