ScottishDave

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About ScottishDave

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    <p> I’m Dave, I’m Scottish and my favourite Lego theme is Star Wars. </p>

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  1. ScottishDave

    [WIP] Babylon 5 - A dream given form.

    Oh, wow. This is brilliant. I'm in the middle of a geeky re-watch of B5 just now, and every time I see it on screen, I've been wondering, "how do I build this out of Lego?". I haven't planned anything the size of your project though - this is massive. I love the way you offset the panel lines on the cylinder - very true to the original.
  2. ScottishDave

    [MOC] Star Wars: The X-Wing Story

    Well, nobody seems to be contradicting you, so here goes. I hate this part... as a programmer, documentation is my Kryptonite. Parts To make a set of four cannons, you will need the following parts from Jerac’s original design: Four grey round hollow studs Four spoked wheels Four 16L 3mm rigid hoses. Twenty Technic half pins: six of them blue, the rest grey. Plus the following new parts: Four minifig hockey masks 93561 Twelve train axles x1687 Twenty 14mm wheels 11208 Four thin cogs 4143 Four timing wheels 32060 Four motor pulleys 2983 Four rigid hoses, each 6 studs long - e.g. 75c06 (to make up a length of 22L) The colour of these hoses is unimportant as only the very ends will be visible but I suggest grey or black. Eight 1 cm lengths of grey rigid hose Four 8mm lengths of grey rigid hose (These are the middle support of the cannon). To rebuild the wingtips to accommodate the new cannons, you'll need the following, either in white or grey depending on the colour of the rest of your X-Wing. Consult the photo in the post above for placement. Eight round hollow studs 85861 Eight "L" shaped tiles 122806 Four 1 x 2 tiles Four stud jumpers Part Notes The thin cogs and timing wheels are optional but I do think that they add something accuracy-wise: especially the thin cog which neatly mimics the 14-spoke part used in the X-wing studio model. Before anyone asks, the door rails pictured in my first post on the cannons are completely optional - they are there to reproduce a detail from the studio model. You can use the original 1 x 4 plates without issue. Certain parts can be either white or grey as you prefer. The 14mm wheels, spoked wheels, rigid hoses, technic half pins and round hollow studs are available in white, and would look good on a white X-Wing: but the pins and rigid hoses much rarer and more expensive than the light bluish grey ones that I used. Building The cannon tip is a train axle, with 2.5 cm (or 1 inch) showing. The rest is shoved into the rigid hose for strength. There are another two train axles per cannon: one immediately behind the first, to combat sagging between the technic pins and the tip of the cannon, and the other joining the original 16L hose to another 6L length to make a total of 22L, which passes through the centre of the cannon body. Here are the parts, before I threaded the axles into the hoses. The axles are shown in their final positions within the hose: And here is the finished reinforced hose, with cannon tip: You then simply thread the parts onto the reinforced rigid hose in order. There should be enough friction to hold everything in place. Some parts will be looser than others. The important parts are the technic pins and the motor pulleys, as these keep everything else together. The end of the reinforced hose should be flush with the end of the motor pulley: The “splashback” - the curved part just behind the tip of the cannon - is made of a hockey mask and a hollow round stud. It takes a bit of effort to get the hockey mask over the end of the hose, but it will go. Cannon Supports As in the original studio model, the cannons are attached to the wing using three supports. These are very accurate, and therefore also the weakest, dodgiest part of the build. The supports consist of three short lengths of rigid hose, slightly squashed at one end to fit into slots in the wheels. To repeat the photo, in context: The outer two supports are 1cm long. The middle one is 8mm. It is shorter than the outer two because it attaches to a jumper plate instead of to round hollow studs. Use a pair of pliers and very gentle pressure to squash half the length of the support hoses to about half the original diameter. Do not overdo it,or they won’t grip the wheels properly. Then push them into the slots in the wheels. In this photo I've put two in, and you can see the slot in the last wheel before the pulley: If done correctly the join is strong enough for display purposes: but don’t hold the model by a cannon or your X-wing will crash into the Death Star. I hope that's clear enough, but please shout if I've missed something.
  3. ScottishDave

    [MOC] Star Wars: The X-Wing Story

    So... yeah. About that warranty? Since mine was well and truly voided, I thought I might as well crack on. I got it finished last weekend. I made a lot of subtle changes, which I won't bore you all with until I've taken better pictures. The biggest change is an upgraded cannon design, based on @dmaclego's amazing work. All credit to him. This design differs from Dmac's original in that it uses wheels with a larger diameter. This doesn't require a rare variant on an old cog to hold it together, and I believe it is a better fit for the scale. I can go into more detail on how to build this if anyone is interested.
  4. ScottishDave

    [MOC] Star Wars: The X-Wing Story

    What a surprise.... I’d love to see the paperwork on a Rebel warranty claim: ”Vehicle history: repeatedly damaged in firefights with law enforcement officers of the Imperial Navy. Extensively upgraded and repaired by the customer on-site using non-standard and unapproved parts. All internal DRM removed or overridden by a cranky astromech unit.” ”Reason for claim: cup holder broken.”
  5. ScottishDave

    [MOC] Star Wars: The X-Wing Story

    Thanks :-). The 2 x 3 plates are now pushed out slightly at the top. The engines would therefore be slightly angled down, but the new wheels are wider. The door rails push up on them, compensating neatly for the slight angling of the 2 x 3s.
  6. ScottishDave

    [MOC] Star Wars: The X-Wing Story

    Thank you Jerac for publishing the instructions to this wonderful build: they were worth every penny, and I'm now considering some of your TIE fighters as well. I also built a white version of Red 5. I'm still fiddling with the colours. I think I need more grey, tan and sand green. The build went quite smoothly. I am very impressed with the solidity of this build: the fuselage especially. I made a few changes: I used 20L tubes for the guns (for better length) and a different cog beind the wheels. In order to create a secure join between the engines and the rest of the ship, I replaced the yellow axles with 8L technic axle with stop (55013). The "stop" end goes through the Plate, modified 3 x 2 with hole (3176) to hold the engine securely in place. To accomodate the longer axle I replaced the truncated cones with 55981 wheels.
  7. ScottishDave

    SHIP recreation - EAS Agamemnon from Babylon 5

    That’s pure dead brilliant, @manglegrat. Of course I’ll post pictures.
  8. ScottishDave

    SHIP recreation - EAS Agamemnon from Babylon 5

    Thank you @Heuwin for that post. I'm just starting on this adventure myself, also using @manglegrat's LXF file: so your post was very timely. I was wondering why half the pictures I found online had the forward cannon flipped. Now I know. Thanks for that - it was driving me nuts. If you happen to have the Excalibur on your decal sheet, I'm happy to pay postage. PM me once you have 10 posts and we'll discuss.
  9. I believe the part used was 85941. It’s a slightly longer version of the half cylinder part.
  10. ScottishDave

    MOC: Lego Ideas - Space Shuttle (Saturn V Scale)

    This group? https://www.facebook.com/groups/saturnvmods/. Fortunately, it's public, so anyone can browse it, even if they aren't a Facebook user. And would that be the PDF uploaded by David Welling on 24 Jun at 15:29? I can't check this link because I'm not on Facebook, but I think this should work: https://www.facebook.com/groups/saturnvmods/374219386316652/
  11. ScottishDave

    MOC: Lego Ideas - Space Shuttle (Saturn V Scale)

    @DanNeely Sadly no. The quarter cylider 30562 is a bomb which has already exploded. You need 14 of them. One rattle-can of plactic-specific orange-brown paint cost me £14.... it's probably the same in dollars or euros. You do the maths.
  12. ScottishDave

    MOC: Lego Ideas - Space Shuttle (Saturn V Scale)

    @SheldonF I painted a few pieces which I couldn't get hold of any other way using RAL 8023 Orange-brown paint. It is a very close match to the lego colour. It looks perfectly fine in normal light conditions. White is also a valid colour for the tank, by the way. Early missions had tanks which were painted white until NASA realised that it made no difference to heat-shielding, and that they could save a few tonnes of weight by leaving out the paint.
  13. ScottishDave

    MOC: Lego Ideas - Space Shuttle (Saturn V Scale)

    Thank you very much @KingsKnight! That's fantastic. So many areas where I'm now saying, "Oh, so THAT'S how it was built!" Why the newer clips on the cargo door hinges? Is it because the old style clips are too stiff?
  14. ScottishDave

    75192 - UCS Millennium Falcon 2017 MOD/MOC

    @Frenk512 Thank you very much for the breakdown of your docking port design. It's an even better design than the tank tracks that I'm currently using: Just one question - how fragile is it? Does it tend to fall apart if you take it off and put it on again?
  15. ScottishDave

    MOC: Lego Ideas - Space Shuttle (Saturn V Scale)

    That looks like it’ll work just fine. my own solution was to use the pearl grey one from the Saturn set. They don’t look too bad: but if that colour really bothers you, then this is good.