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Found 357 results

  1. I like to present you my Lego town Steinbruck. The name is from Stein=brick & bruck(old German)=bridge. This is my current layout: My MOC and MOD buildings (more detail pictures in the albums; just click the pictures to get there): I'm planning a car wash for the Service Station and will build it in the next months. I also build digital, but can't afford all of them to build with bricks. Click to album.
  2. Hello, Madoka's JEEP Wrangler for me is most beautiful JEEP build from LEGO ever. That was a love from the first sight. And it is also fit my favourite scale - 15 stud wide body, like my Toyotas. Since I saw it - I want it on my shelve. Comparing to Madoka, who's every new model is a Challenge and he never use previous model's elements (no matter body design or internal structure of chassis), I am quite conservative. My every next model is evolution of previous if talk about chassis. Madoka's JEEP Wrangler chassis is awesome, but I prefer my own with springs, links and gear rack steering. So I stretched his Jeep from 3 door version to 5 door, added rear seats with foldable backs. Put it on the Hilux chassis with minor changes and that's my "own" JEEP. specs - Driving - XL motor - Steering - Servo motor - Body removable from chassis - Openable doors - Removable 2 section hardtop roof - Suspension on both live axles - 4x4 transmission - LED lights - Smart Brick for RC with iPhone / ДУ через Sbrick - 1 stud lift possibility - Winch is fake (like all beautiful things in modern world:)) The hardest part for me was rear doors. That sounds funny, but making them tapered with the right angle was impossible using standart angle connectors. So I have to cheat and use LEGO System bricks and inverted slopes. No, I never miss this bricks while playing Jeep, but this element is still bothering me. May be someone could offer better design - I will be glad to use your idea. Front axle is little bit long, shifted forward may be half or one stud, than should be. But this was done to fit larger wheels, because stock wheeled JEEP Wrangler is the worst looking offorader in the world, especially long wheelbase version I also left possibility for body and chassis to be connected on two ways: standart and 1 stud lifted. This is lifted verison with 74 mm tires from RC4WD Jeep is modular like real model with removable doors and 2-section roof, thanks Madoka for design. Front lights are still LED ready. Expeditional stuff increases the weight of the model, but this is Jeep's calling to be like that. Roll cage, roof rack, spare wheel holder, baggage and cans, fake winch, extra lights, snorkel and extendable rain/sun tent. With minor changes in the axles, model can stand on RC 1:10 tires that have wide variety to choose from And my favourite: Buggy Mode with RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ tires about 81 mm diameter. And this is not just shelve model, because Jeep without roof and doors is really light. If you put Buwizz in it - you will have a lot of fun with it ;) Many more photos here My advice to novice builders: don't hold your sets under the dust on shelve, and don't try to build your own model from scratch. Modifiying sets and models of other designers is the easiest way to increase your skills. Don't afraid, just try:) You can also see some other wheels variations in the next video. And of course, test drive in different conditions, including rocks, mud and water. Have a nice time;) How it performs with BUWIZZ? Check it out p.s. You can also watch review of Madoka's model. TURN ON SUBTITILES. or original video Jeep Wrangler (red) designed by Madoka
  3. Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year
  4. Wow, first real post here! This is my modification of TLG's 75042 Droid Gunship, in an attempt to make it more film-accurate. List of Modifications: - removed play features such as dropping bombs and spring launchers - slimmed down light laser cannons on winglets - changed main laser cannon to add articulation and increase accuracy - added additional pieces to front to cover gaps between ball turrets and nose - added more accurate payload on underside of disc - removed cockpit hinge, filled details appropriately Here's a view of the whole thing. Off to the side, you can see the original cockpit section, which can be easily installed As a little bonus, you can open it to reveal the HMP's Droid Brain! In canon, nearly all of the Confederacy's space and ground "vehicles" were actually independently-controlled droids. However, many games portray them as vehicles with onboard pilots, so you can easily remove the droid brain, as it is only attached via the front two studs. Above is a close-up of the droid brain. The image below shows the improved payload of missiles. Let me know what you think! I'm planning to make more accurate versions of other ships as well, so let me know what you'd like to see next!
  5. Hello everybody! This is my version of the 75055 Lego Star Destroyer. SD_1, on Flickr I know there are many fantastic models from the Imperial Star Destroyers in this forum, such as Raskolnikov's ISD Aggressor. Unfortunately I do not have the space (and money) for such a big model. My goal was to make this ship a little bigger and keep the playability of the set. So I enlarge the original version of the size of the Lego Imperial Star Destroyer 6211 from 2006. The construction is similar to the original construction of 75055. You can just put it on the table and open the panel easily. I mainly used parts from the set 75190. Due to the weight I had to stiffen the underbody with long technic bricks and wedge plates. SD_2, on Flickr SD_3, on Flickr SD_4, on Flickr SD_5, on Flickr SD_6, on Flickr My model will also feature an interior. More pics will follow soon. What do you think about that? MAG85
  6. It is my second try at creating a model the way Lego does but at the same time being as sleek and faithful to original as possible. It is not a 100% MOC, because it incorporates some basic structure techniques of 75101 mixed with 75211. 759 pieces plus 56 for a display stand. Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Imperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on FlickrImperial TIE Fighter Lego MOC / MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  7. Enforcer Zer0

    Death Star 75159 Modifications

    I've never liked the boxy shape to the curves in the set and I was encouraged with the reveal of cloud city and the smooth curved "separations" to replicate the same on the Death Star. I've also incorporated set 75093 in 3 of the files for a better throne room in the set. For the 2 crazy colored files: purple=light bluish gray yellow=dark bluish gray lime=black Crazy colors no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50837 Crazy colors throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50838 No crazy colors no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50839 No crazy colors throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50840 Only modded parts no throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50841 Only modded parts throne room mod: https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/model.page?idModel=50842
  8. The upcoming 42082 Rough terrain crane has inspired a whole list of possible improvements because I believe that at this scale some cool functions could/should be modeled (in random order): Two stage outriggers, preferably PF controlled Multiple steering modes (minimal 2: 4WS and front wheel steering) Pendular front axle Luffing jib, folding away against the boom Second winch for secondary hook Replace LA’s which lift the boom with an actuator with a longer stroke for bigger range in the boom angle Cosmetic changes to cabin, engine cover and upper structure to resemble real cranes more like Grove or Terex Some of these are probably overly ambitious and I’m not claiming to be able build all these MODs in one single model, but I am curious to see how far I can take this. My first step is to take a look at possible two stage outriggers. So far I’m tinkering in LDD to find mechanisms for the horizontal stage which are rigid enough to support the Crane and compact enough to fit on both ends of the 42082. I think it must be possible to fit the outriggers in a module measuring 5x7x23 studs. The ultimate goal would be to lift the crane from its wheels, but considering the size and weight of the 42082, I would be happy if the outriggers can simply provide actual support. Progress so far:
  9. LegoModularFan

    Making Eurobricks More Active

    Hi everyone, I actually have been considering to create this topic for two-three months but after noticing that we didn't have the Expand the Winter Village Contest VIII yesterday (I wasn't aware of that before), I thought it was time to create this topic. Without further ado, let me jump into it. I see that the level of activity on EB is lower than it was before. For example, the number of active members seemed to be higher; the interaction between members and also between staff and members looked more intense, more amusing and interesting discussions were going on, and people were having more fun (such as on titles). If I'm wrong and if EB is a forum that is still active as it used to be, I believe, in any case, it deserves to grow - with even more AFOLs (I do understand that every AFOL may not want/don't have time to interact but they can come only to show their MOCs). So I feel it's just the right time to take action. So, does anyone else feel the way I do and does anyone has any suggestions? Staff, I know this may a sensitive subject and you may not be ok with regular members interlope and I absolutely understand that. I just would like to help in anyway I (and other members) can, I hope you'll not be offended. I really think all the forum needs to stand together. Many thanks to all, the staff and members, for your attention, consideration and support. (@Jipay, @Bonaparte, @Hinckley, @Siegfried, @Shadows, @Rick, @Jim, @Bob De Quatre, @WhiteFang, @Fugazi, @Captain Nemo, @Clone OPatra, @CorneliusMurdock, @Brickdoctor, @Stash2Sixx, @Ecclesiastes, @ZCerberus, @Peppermint_M, @Mister Phes, @Phred, @Pandora, @JopieK, @Milan, @VBBN, @Rufus, @LuxorV, @Superkalle, @Dragonator and @CopMike) My apologies for shout-outs to each of you but I just want to draw your attention. Sincerely, LegoModularFan
  10. Hello everybody, during this holidays I purchased the 42081 and decided to build it a little different. First, I made some minor changes in design, to look a little more similar to the "real" Zeux. I changed some color here and there; the yellow panels in the middle are different; the placement of the "02" adhesives is on the lower DBG panels instead of the upper ones. But the biggest MOD was to add the pneumatic system, with motorized pump, instead of manual LAs. The valves are located on the sides of the loader, 2 on the left and 2 on the right. There are 2 big cilinders (to rise the arm and the rear axle) and 2 medium (old) cilinders, to operate the bucket and the counterweight. Here you can see the last cilinder, the pump and the motor, located below the battery box: And here is a short video:
  11. It was about a year ago and it was my very first, long (3 waves of bricklink orders) and enjoyable try on building something big and different than official Lego set. I started with the idea of just fixing the "wings problem" and replacing all light blueish gray pieces for mostly black ones. The inspiration for the construction for that came from Rebel Builder's technic hinges technique (credits!). When I was done I realized it is so majestic, it really deserves to be in black. And there it is... :) I made lots of different modifications both in wings and fuseloge. They are mostly not visible but very important to make it sturdy enough not to come apart during play with the wings position. And I was happy to manage the goal. What I was really proud of were the guides for the wings that prevent them from wobbling in any position or direction. The very front part with the mean red windows is designed as in Jang's version of this MOD (BIG Up Jang!). I do not know if I made it the same way as he did, but the shape is, as far as i recognize, the same and in my opinion absolutely perfect. I would really recommend this MOD to everyone, because the end result is much more than pleasing. Of course if you do not own 75104 and want to built the black beast, don't buy official Lego set, because you would replace most of parts. Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr Kylo Ren's Command Shuttle Lego 75104 MOD by Barney Markowski, on Flickr
  12. Hi guys! Recently I bought a bunch of blue pieces to mod my 7676 gunship but ended up selling it. That left me with a lot of blue bricks so I modded Lego 75151 Clone turbo tank in to a 501st version and the AT RT that came with it. Enjoy! A shot for both vehicals AT RT Here you can see it still folds up Turbo tank Interior, I fitted it with another plate so I can put troops or cargo in it Close up of plate here you can see the AT RT still fits but you will need to take the plate out I also modded the cannons because I do not like stud shooter very much So that was my mod of 75151! Hope you liked it! I would be happy to get feedback!
  13. JarJarBonks

    [MOD] 75152 Imperial Hovertank

    Hi all! Today I present you my modded version of Lego 75152 Imperial hovertank! The hatch of the original version was really ugly so I though I could try to improve it by actually building a hatch. Enjoy! Here is the complete picture of the hovertank with hatch The commander peeking out. I just switched his arms btw Here I also modded the inside so one troopers sits one stud more to the left, so another can stand on top of the sloped brick. Hope you liked it and I would love to get feedback!
  14. Hello everyone, as i didn't see any Mods topic for this set, i decided to start it myself, and to start, i would like to share with you the LDD file for the official set (not sure if there was one already), there are some parts missing and some pieces are not fully connected (could i have used developer mode to solve this? yes, but for some reason i decided just to place apart the pieces i couldn't fit in), here is the model: Missing parts: -x4 24118 Panels in Dark Purple (Brick-built and grouped in the model) -x11 6167281 (I didn't add any substitute) -x1 6187734 (The rope) LDD file:http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/42069/42069.lxf And next is my modifications for this set so far, the first thing that i wanted to do was to put wheels and tires, and because this is an snow-themed set, i decided to put tumbler tires, and i knew that these tires didn't look good in those very wide axles, with these tires the vehicle would look silly, but after narrowing the axle a little bit, i think it is looking like an authentic snow expedition vehicle (it even looks like an JLTV from the sides), i also changed some colors, but is just a test (the model is still WIP): The goal is XL-Motor for drive, Servo Motor for steering and M or L-Motor for the winch (and possibly some lights): I hope you like it, i will try to make more improvements, and i am looking forward to see more modifications by any other member, have happy modding.
  15. Hi! My mod of set 75200! I added 166 new parts! I built the back of the house, changed training section, and few more details List of parts https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZRykfYPrTk4azn-3aFCh9C_j6O46HTOP Check how it works on my Youtube - with tutorial! What do you think? :)
  16. Hello, I start this topic to share with all my work with Lego : MOD MOC Reproducing your MOC Bargain on buying/selling The Lego convention I participated on To begin, please find a MOD of the mystery machine. I modified this nice and gentle van into a Carmaggedon version : I like the thumbler tyres, they fit very well to the Mystery Machine ! Hope you enjoy
  17. My friend made an RC-mod of the 42076 B-model but is to lazy to post it, so here i am, doing it for him and you guys He raised the chassis 1 stud and all the parts fitted without any great modification. He said it felt as if the chassis was designed to be modded this way Here are some pictures: I like how well the receiver fits in there:
  18. Since I saw the official pics for the set, i decided that, I must mod the shoulder area. I know there are a lot of cool mods and rebuilds of the set, but I like keep the sets in original form as possible. The overall design of the Hulkbuster was good looking and sturdy, but the gaps at the shoulder bothered me much. Those gaps are there to give space for 360 degree movement of the arms. After the instructions of the set become available, I build it in LDD and then I started to change the build.Mostly I just took out some parts, but it has greatly improved the look. Guide to the Modification: Required Patrs: For this simple mod you only need this 3 parts. For the black arms you could use the outriders arms, because the don't need 6 arms, I think. 1. The mod is begins with disassembly. You need to take off the upper part of the body and the right arm. 2. To get the arms closer to the body you need to leave out the black gears and to change the axle. Than you could take back this arm and take out the another arm. The left arm is on a shorter axle, so you just need to take out the gear. 3. Next comes the upper part. You need to take out curved pieces from the top and the layer of black plates to make it 1 plate high lower. Then you should swap the to black L plate with the gray 1x4, for sturdier connection. 4. Because the height reduction the minifig should stand lower to let the dome close, so you need to take out the 1x2 plate from under the standing piece. 5.Last thing, you could take the 2x2 transparent blue cylinder out to reduce the size of the wheel, which operates the arm. The bashing-arm function is still working after the mod, but it's a bit limited in motion by the shoulder armor. You should be careful with it because you could accidentally knock off those parts, if you raise the arm to high. Fixing the arm with the wheel on the back is workig still too and then you coud posing the arms. After this mod here is our extra parts left: Comparison: I hope you like this small modification.
  19. JarJarBonks

    8037 Y wing with landing gear

    Hi all, I've modified the y wing so that there is retractable landing gear. The design is similar to the on on the UCS y wing. To add the landing gear you will have to remove the shooter underneath I feel like the landing gear makes the whole model stand up higher and looks a lot better. What do you think?
  20. Kozikyo86

    [MOD] 75202 V-4X-D Ski Speeder

    Hi, my MOD of new Lego Star Wars set from The Last Jedi - 75202 Defense of Crait. My version is shorter by 4 studies, has better proportions. Currently, the project exists only in LDD. Tell me what you think about this, and if many people want a instruction for this, I try to prepare something.
  21. Hello people, as i have seen some topics made by some members were they share their creations, modifications and ideas, i thought it was a good idea to start my own topic about that, this way i can avoid filling other topics with too many information by saving all that information here and just posting small texts in those other topics. To start, i would like to share some creations which i worked on: Model Team Nissan Frontier. This is one of my oldest models, i made it even before i knew about Eurobricks, and i would like to share it with you because you might like it or modified it: This model features front independent suspension, rear leaf spring suspension using 5.5 axles, HOG steering, working doors, bonnet and tailgate, 5 seats and a towing hitch; its very possible that some parts are with wrong colors or there could be outdated building techniques, but i think that is not too bad for one of my first LDD models (i am no sure, but if i have enough time and inspiration i could make it in real Technic parts), The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/nissan-frontier/Nissan Frontier.lxf. Model Team Paramount Group Marauder MRAP. Again, one of my oldest models, it is made at a pretty small scale but it could still be considered as "model team" (i think), it has pendular suspension in both axles which are damped by cross-axles which act as leaf springs, it has HOG steering, working winch and doors, a spare tire and 2 turrets that can be mounted on the roof: The LXF: http://bricksafe.com/files/imanol/paramount-marauder/Paramount Group Marauder.lxf Technic Unimog U500 Long Chassis (I have called it UNI-MOC) You might have seen it in the latest posts at 8110´s Mods topic ( http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/topic/57543-8110-unimog-mods-and-improvements/&page=78 ), it is a 64 studs long and 24 studs wide model which i started to make because the modifications in the 8110 got to a too high level and i wasn´t satisfied with the whole model, i created this new model to hold all of my wanted functions and details, this model has some designs from other builders: Madoca´s Tatra 2-speeds gearbox (slightly modified to fit in this new chassis), Efferman´s planetary rims, a modified version of Didumos knob gear driven axle and a 3-side dumping system and dropping sides inspired by Kumbbl´s modifications, it was also made by some help and inspiration by Pat-Ard: This Unimog has 4 M-Motors, 2 L-Motors, 2 XL-Motors, 3 IR RC Receivers, 2 AAA Battery Boxes and 3 PF Switches (brick-built with ugly colors), why so many motors? well, as you might know, the 8110 had only one M-Motor inside it, which was meant to drive the 3 main functions of the set (front PTO, rear PTO and the pneumatic pump) the problem was that the functions couldn't be used simultaneously, you couldn't power front and rear PTO´s at the same time or with the pneumatic pump and because this system uses a gearbox and axles to engage and transmit the power to the different parts, this results in a lot of friction and power losing (other of the reasons of why i started this MOC), other thing that bother me about the 8110 was the proportions of it, it was very tall with lifted wide axles, but very thin cab and bed which made it look silly, the chassis had no space for all the functions that i wanted, i couldn't place enough motors or functions on it, and the axles were another problem, the steering pivot and angle was a disappointing, the tires couldn't steer too much with the half pins, and if you removed them, the mudguards and the surrounding elements needed to be placed far away from the tires to avoid them from colliding, these are few of the reasons of why i started to make my own version of this UGN class of Unimog (which are U300, U400 and U500). Some of the good features of this model are: Improved steering pivot (2 studs closer to the wheels compared to standard portal hubs) Wheels and portal hubs can handle more torque without jamming parts The axles are more compact (less tall), so the chassis can move even lower for a more realistic performance Front steering by L-Motor Rear steering (By M-Motor) with the same axle design as the front one Anti-roll bars in both axles, which help a lot to handle with weight and give a lot of stability, and they can be easily removed for serious offroading Remotely shifted 2-speeds gearbox by M-Motor Directly driven pneumatic pump (L-Motor) and PTO´s (M-Motors) for less power losing 3-side tipping 37 studs long 23 studs wide dump bed with dropping sides using a V2 large pneumatic cylinder Drive by 2 XL-Motors So, these are some of my models, i hope you like them, and i hope to upload more of them, i will try to do my best with all them, let me know what you think about this topic and the models, and any suggestion is well received Thanks.
  22. "In brightest day, in blackest night, No evil shall escape my sight. Let those who worship evil's might Beware my power Green Lantern's light!" After seeing the new lantern piece, I thought to myself "What's stopping me from putting different colours in the lantern?" Nothing is. Then that's where the lightbulb lit up like fireworks on 4th of July: Green Lantern's Lantern! I like the lantern from the 2015 set; the designers did very god work with the old lantern considering the scale and the pieces they had available back in 2015. However, with the addition of the new piece I feel it looks a better scale than 2015. Honest opinions are appreciated and welcome. Expect to see some more photos soon
  23. PriorMarcus

    My Hulkbuster UCS MOD

    Here's my MOD of the Hulkbuster UCS set. Hope you all like.
  24. MODification of one of my favorite sets, 10027 Train Engine Shed. Probably designed 6 years ago and only slightly upgraded since Rendering from LEGO Digital Designer using Bluerender.
  25. Ultimately playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS Now that I have finished Box 1. and got the shifting mechanism and drive train working properly, I thought I might start my own thread about this project. I plan to submit the result to the Porsche of Your Dreams contest. With this project I aim for playability rather than authenticity. So McPherson strut suspension and rear wheel steering? Probably not. But HoG steering and HoG shifting? Yes. I'm actually working on 2 versions, the minimal version and the ultimate version. The minimal version includes all 'must-have' modifications - or fixes - that I listed in the minimal sections below. The ultimate version will include rear HoG steering, rear HoG shifting, a more sturdy chassis, a dashboard gear indicator, Ackermann steering and a stabilized gear rack. The ultimate version also includes all essential fixes, but sometimes implemented in a different way to fit the more advanced modifications. I will keep an index here on the OP of this thread of all the modifications I implemented or plan to implement. Ultimate version - Planned features Lockable doors Ultimate version - Implemented features 4th to 1st gear block Hand of God steering Hand of God shifting Sturdy without body Geared up engine Dash gear indicator Ackermann steering Stabilized gear rack Secured wishbones Improved clearance Improved shifters Removable body Ultimate version - Building directions (link) I do not plan for full-blown instructions. For now I can only offer this thread with reports on all MODs and a LXF-file showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup representing the old structure and the new structure. Both new structures and old structures are embedded in a version of the chassis. By clicking on a group or subgroup in the group tab you select all parts in that group. Now when you invert the selection and then delete the selection you see a cutaway of the group, which allows you to inspect the group thoroughly. Use Ctrl-Z to undo the delete after inspection. This way you can inspect the differences group by group. I also have a parts list available with the extra parts needed for this version. If you want to build this using the LXF-file for the 'ultimate version' you should take into account the following pointers: You need to make sure each individual axle that is part of the shift or drive train runs smoothly, with the least of friction. Make sure gears don't rub against liftarms, especially the red clutch gears need some play. When you replace the knob gears inside the PDK-unit with bevel gears, make sure the axles keep their original orientation. A knob gear mesh implies a 45 degree orientation difference. Note that the 3L pins with 1L axle inside the PDK-unit need to be inserted half a stud deeper than what the LXF-file shows. LDD does not allow a full insertion. Also check the changes to Box 2; for instance the way the vertically placed black panel in front of the rear suspension module has been secured to adequately lock up the 20t bevel gears used for the rear HoGs. Also check the changes to Box 3 and 4, which are needed to make the body removable. Minimal version - Gear shifting MODs (link) I applied Paul Boratko's gear sequence fix as described in Jim's review. I flipped the change-over-catches in paddle-shifter-unit by 180 degrees (as suggested by Attika). I added the simple 90° limiter to the gear selector axle; used two of the four white silicon bands. I removed the 8 tooth gears used to add friction; minimized friction in the selector axle instead. I used only one silicon band for each paddle shifter; wrapped it around the neck of the ball joint once. I extended both change-over-catches in the gearbox with half a stud (more info here). Minimal version - Friction reducing MODs (link) I removed the pin-joiner in the D+N+R-gearbox. Original idea suggested by Blakbird, see his detailed build report. I avoided red gears from transferring torque on axles rotating at different speed, see eliminate friction in gearbox. I added an extra support for the 15L axle running from D+N+R gearbox to differential, see alternative axle scheme. I avoided axle connectors from rubbing against lift-arms as suggested by nerdsforprez, see alternative axle scheme. I replaced the white clutch gear with a gearless friction clutch, see alternative axle scheme and white gear replacement. Now I could gear up the engine: Replaced the 2 16t gears with a pair of 24t-8t gears, see eliminate friction in gearbox. Minimal version - Building instructions (link) For the minimal version I made building instructions in terms of errata. The errata will help you implement the necessary fixes while building the model from scratch. It provides a list of extra parts you need (only 30 small and commonly used parts) and a sequence of steps that serve as a replacement of the corresponding steps in the original building instructions. All can be found in this PDF. and on Rebrickable. The errata include a 4th-to-1st gear block, but do not provide instructions for additional features like HoG steering or a removable body. I was a little bit in doubt whether to include all changes to the axle scheme or not. Blakbird - who has test-driven this set of modifications, thanks for that! - was already satisfied without applying all changes to avoid connectors from rubbing against liftarms. I decided to include them anhyway, beacuse I think it's simply a matter of good practice and since these errata are specifically useful when you build the model from scratch, it's an easy gain. For all MODs that are included in the errata I also made a LDD-file of Box 1. showing the differences in terms of groups: In each group there is a subgroup containing the old structure and a subgroup containing the new structure. All new structures are embedded in the complete chassis and all old structures are placed to the side of the chassis. By clicking on a subgroup you select all parts in that group. That way you can inspect the differences. Besides the modifications listed above the LDD-file contains HoG steering.