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Showing results for tags 'MOD'.
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I've been wanting to do this project for a while now and I am pleased to finally share the finished product with you all! The majority of the build changes were inspired by the following threads: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=123246 http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=46040 The original MOD is what I'm most proud of. Anytime I did research on Boba Fett's ship I was always reminded that the ship model is a Firespray-31-class patrol and attack craft. When I hear the word "Firespray" I can't help but imagine that this ship is equipped to rain proton torpedoes, lasers, concussion missiles, etc. on it's opponents. That being said, flick fire missiles were not going to cut it. I planned out the firing mechanism in LDD and only had to make a few changes when I built in in real bricks to make it fire properly. Check out the video and let me know what you think! Full Flickr Album: https://www.flickr.c...th/29076720293/
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Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses. -
Hello everyone, This is my first mod of an original set, I don't mod/moc, as I only build and display sets, however, I felt last year's 75052 Cantina set was a little underwhelming, and like many others hoped to buy a second one at a good discount to combine two. So after picking up another 75052 heavily battered at 40% off (the box was crushed and the sticker sheet was folded in half between the opening flaps), I decided that I would combine the two using only the parts provided in the two sets, still keeping with the aesthetic and design of the original set. I would like to credit user 'Artisanproxy' for some of the inspiration that went into making my version of the Cantina. Here it is. I apologise if the photos are a little small and over exposed. Most of the right side is the original set apart from the bar area. Unfolded The seating area on the left is from the original set. I decided to go with the curved wall at the back of the bar to give a bit of diversity from all the hard edges, but I'm not sure if I like it myself. Back of the bar. I turned the back archway into a window/service area, kind of like a drivethrough. Seating area of my own design on left. The bar. Comments and criticism welcome.
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As much as I love 10227, there were areas that I felt could have been done much better. Unlike other sets in the UCS line I have seen very few mods, and those that exist have few details. I now feel I have addressed all of my gripes with the model, including a stand that lets me invert the ship, a whole new cockpit and plated S-Foil undersides. Unfortunately I didn't make my album with EB in mind (I'm sorry guys ), so my images are probably too large to embed. All I have for you now is this imgur album and I may add some images to my post later. http://imgur.com/a/uKn5z I'd like to add that I'm not happy having the MF print on the cockpit, and the half cone doesn't come in clear without a print on it! It looks OK, but does anybody know a good way of removing the print? I know many have done so with opaque parts but not trans.
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Hi all. I'm new to this forum. Let me introduce my alternative model of 42035 Lego (Mining Truck). Hope You like it. :) Maybe some suggestions to improve. -
Ok so im in the process of bricklinking the 10030 Star Destroyer but wanted to show the mods im planning on doing. As awesome as the original is i was always a bit disappointed in some of the details and greebling, anyway, enough talking and on to the pics. Hopefully the touch ups are noticeable but not enough to be in your face, all the greebling was redone, front of bridge reshaped, entire engine area redone and a few things changed and added. **LDD file in post #20**
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I was messing around in LDD and looking at pictures of set 60098 (Heavy Haul train, not yet released for 2015. See it here: https://www.flickr.c...s-55973205@N08/ ) when I realized I probably could do a lot better using set 7939, the look-alike Cargo Train from 2010. I turned the electric locomotive into a diesel, and stretched the frame to allow for a beefier engine area. I didn't think about motorizing it with Power Functions until now, but I did make it build-able in two more varieties in case you wanted to color match 60098 with the red one, or maybe build you own engine with the black one. The cab still opens, and the driver can sit down and control the train from either end of the locomotive. This train was designed last year, but was unbuild-able until this year with the release of the back windscreen in trans-clear with a Marvel Superheroes set. The train consists of one baggage car, three passenger cars, and a observation lounge car. The rear car was based on the Milwaukee Road and it's beaver-tail observation cars. Here is the LDD file for the yellow 7939-style engine and the accompanying train cars: http://www.mocpages....1431959052m.lxf Here is the two other colors of the engine I was talking about earlier. The red one is supposed to represent 60098 (Heavy Haul Cargo train), while the yellow one is inspired by 7939 (Cargo Train). The black one is the only other color available for this type of engine. By The Way: the letters BRS should go on the three exposed studs on the sides of the locomotive, while the numbers for the engines should go on the sides of the fuel tank. 7939 for the yellow one, 7045 for the black one (because that's the only set that cockpit part comes in!) and 7944 for the red one, as it matches the other engines in sequence and was used in the 2007 set of that number. (Fire Hovercraft) ... or you could use your own numbering scheme. LDD file for the three different colored engines: http://www.mocpages.com/user_images/80135/1431958750m.lxf Thoughts, comments, and complaints welcome! -
Had a little fun with the 8051 and I really liked the result. Just a few simple mods give it a more aggressive stance and feel like a proper Streetfighter. -
Hello! Today I'm proudly present you my new MOD - 6x6 CUV, originally made by Madoca. His CUV impressed me so much when I built it, that I decided to build a modified version. Main targets was: impressive exterior, powerful drivetrain and different bodywork. Also I wanted it to have some serious off-road capabilities, so I decided to use larger wheels with custom tires. So final features is: - 6x6 drive - 4 L-motors (2 on each side) - 4 Li-Po BB (connected in parallel) - SBrick - Positive caster angle (front suspension) - Wheel reductors (3:1) and custom tires I tried to keep the original look, but front wheelarches was too small, so I replaced them with flex axles The rear part now looks completely different, it looks more like pickup. Special thanks to jorgeopesi for his wonderful fake engine idea! The only noticeable change in the cockpit - sticking BB The rest are hiding in the trunk Here is the teaser video: Thanks for watching! Hope you enjoy it Feel free to leave comments, your feedback is very important for me.
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MOD: Conrail GP40 in the style of the Maersk locomotive
zephyr1934 posted a topic in LEGO Train Tech
I am happy to finally be able to present my version of a Conrail GP40 [full gallery] The obvious resemblance to the Maersk locomotive from set 10219 is deliberate and I would call this build a MOD rather than a MOC. I wanted to approach the Maersk locomotive from a clean slate with the objectives of: (1) replicating a common North American locomotive (yeah, there was that NS unit, but that was only one engine, Conrail alone had a 275 GP40's). (2) With the lack of a "Creator Expert" train on the market right now, provide an affordable "gateway" build for new AFOL train fans looking for something more meaty than the city train sets. (3) Since this is meant to be a gateway MOD, keep the parts costs as low as possible. As of this writing, probably over $100 worth of the parts for this build can be found in set 60052. This includes a pair of blue train base plates (hence the pair of locomotives), the 6x16 tile to cover the PF gear, and of course all of the PF parts (not to mention a supply of track to run on). As my grandfather used to say, when TLG hands you blue train bases, make Conrail. (4) Having built a few heavy freight cars recently and acquiring wide radius curves from ME models, I am now in need of a few PF diesel freight engines. This build keeps the form factor from the Maersk, but a lot of the actual build is different, including a few new tricks (e.g., the exhaust stack). Since N. American locomotives rarely travel alone I had to build a pair (oh, and there is that second blue base plate in 60052 that would otherwise be lonely). One is powered (3051) and one is not (3245). Rather than use the 6x16 tile on the unpowered unit, I built the long hood on 3245 out of regular bricks. As I look at the two together, I like the smooth side better, but it is not easy to hide 4 wide PF in a 4 wide hood. With this MOD I have also addressed some of what I think are shortcomings in the original Maersk design, chief of which was doing away with the high friction technic axles for the loco trucks and adding a second motor under the powered unit for more pulling power. I am even using a purist PF reverser switch inside the hood, so there is a lot of wire stuffed in the space that remains. One of the things that really makes a build pop is the lettering. These locomotives have been complete for a few weeks, but the stickers misprinted and I had to redo the lot. I was finally able to apply them this past weekend (more detail on the sticker process can be found here) The basic design is meant to be customizable. I personally like the look of the unpowered unit and if I did not already have way too many 9v diesels I would probably put a 9v motor under it. I did my best to keep costs down by avoiding rare parts, of course if someone had a ton of 1x8's those could easilly be substituted for the 1x4's... or on the unpowered unit one could use 2x4's. There are still a few expensive parts that could be substituted out, e.g., 1x1 bricks with stud on the side are a little pricy in blue right now. There was the use of the blue train base plates, fairly common at the moment, hence the Conrail design. Then more subtle tweaks, for example the hand rails are completely different, borrowing the clip idea from the BNSF set 10133 to eliminate one set of expensive hoses and then using bars instead of hose for the railing to eliminate the other set of expensive hoses. I plan on releasing the instructions for free as a gateway to the hobby and selling the stickers for those who really like the build. The instructions will come out as soon as I can finish cleaning up the LDraw file (a few weeks) and if there are any early adopters I could start taking requests for the stickers now (send a PM). In my opinion the stickers are good quality (as shown in the pictures) but not perfect if look closely (also as shown in the pictures). [ full gallery] -
[MOD] Thor's Helmet So ever since I laid eyes on TLG Hawkman's (DC) new helmet, I knew I wanted to make this MOD / MOC. Build details: • First order of business was to bend / mold the "wings" back as much as possible without causing any irreparable damage. Those familiar with the MCU helmet know the wings do not flare out on the sides, but lay "flatter" to the helmet. • With a bit of trial and error, I got the wings as best as I could manage. I suppose I could have tried to fold back a tiny bit more, but I was getting worried that it was starting to damage the folds (there was a slight bit of visible "whitening" at the joints when I stopped -- no tearing -- these suckers are made of strong stuff -- but nonetheless decided to stop while I was ahead). • Next was to Dremel the face plate to remove the "mask" and then to shave / smooth down the inner sides. This took a bit of "eyeballing", trial and error. It's not 100% symmetrical, but about as good as I'm gonna get. • Finally, a nice coat of metallic Silver paint -- and boom -- done. Final Version: “Whosoever wears this helmet, if he be worthy, shall possess the power of Thor.”
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Hi all I did this mod quite a while back and meant to post it but somehow forgot. After recently having seen images of the new UCS TIE Fighter (which does have the rear viewport) I remembered about this mod of mine. It's nothing special and the model loses even more of it's "roundness" (what little there was to start with) but I was quite happy with it. I tried to use most of the parts in the set but the use of some extra parts was inevitable. If anybody wants to build it, it's a bit wobbly at the start but it's as stable as it was before once it's finished. Here's an LDCad render (sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I had built it) and I've attached an .ldr of the complete cockpit build. Cheers TIE Rear Viewport.ldr
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Here a video of my modified modulars, all together in one layout.
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Here is my second Modular conversion. This time I started with two 31036 Toy Store and Grocery sets. I decided to just focus on the Toy Store, since the Green Grocer has the groceries covered. Like my Bike Shop and Cafe MOD, I wanted to try to keep the feel of the original. This is also my first attempt at an interior. 2015-03-05 16.45.46 I stole the sign idea from DDoshini... The ground floor is the toy store. A variety of things for sale. The first floor is a little office and storage for more toys. The top floor is a workshop where the owner makes his toys! More photos here...
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Hello everyone, I am about to start building a mod of the Pet Shop. I plan on turning each building into 24 studs wide instead of the normal 16 and hopefully have enough spare bricks to also add an additional floor to each building too. The big question that I had for the community today is if anyone knows if you can fit the normal bay window on each side and the door in between them, this is not an issue on upper floors but you obviously need a front door to get inside. If anyone has attempted this or happens to know how many studs wide the bay windows are that would let me figure it out. Each window can have 10 studs in width since a door will only take up 4. Once I get this all put together I will share the pics with everyone. I also plan to make the Pet Shop sign actually say Pet Shop since it will now have the space. I've looked all over and can't find any examples of a 24 wide townhouse or pet shop. If I don't have enough bricks from the sets for an additional floor I will most likely brick link whats necessary since my Cafe Corner and Green Grocer both have an additional story. Thank you to anyone that can answer the 10 stud allowance for the bay windows.
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Once again, I just couldn't be more pleased with this year's Speed Champion sets. As some of you will recall, I've been widening the standard Speed Champion cars to be 8 studs wide. I just prefer the aesthetic, and now my drivers aren't centered in what is supposed to be a 2 or 4 seat car. 2016 cars http://www.eurobrick...opic=122188&hl= 2015 cars http://www.eurobrick...36#entry2154620 The Model A was a special case because while it surely wasn't the scale that would necessitate 8-stud width, I didn't think it needed to be 6 studs either, so I went with 5, which keeps it a small old hot rod size, but is still more to scale than the tiny 4-stud configuration that comes with the set. In addition to the change in width, I've done a lot of detail work, from the engine to the back of the car. I didn't change much on the Raptor but did add to the garage pit area. This was so much fun I immediately began building more hot rods in this style and scale. Edit: Here's a link to the other hot rods. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=134719 Enjoy! For comparison, here is the stock version:
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Hello all, When you are playing with your Lego creations, what remote control set-up/configuration do you use? The main one I use for my cars is a joystick and steering wheel combination: The other configuration I use is a 2 way joystick: The other MOD I have come across is the following link based one: More pictures are available at my Bricksafe account: http://bricksafe.com...remote-controls If you have any other modifications or set-ups you use, post them here. Thanks for reading, Jim -
When I am taking a break I sometimes mod my models. This little post is what happened the last time I needed to take a break. I was building my latest moc and was about halfway done. In the morning had gotten a big shipment of the dgb plates I needed to move on and I was content with the progress I had made that day. The sun was shining and birds were singing. Well, it was early March and there were very few birds to be found anywhere - but I imagine I could hear them sing. Suddenly the imaginary birds went silent. Something on the model was not lining up as expected. I took a second look. Nope. It was not correct. I had messed up. Badly. I knew what I had to do. I needed to take most of the model apart and a long with it the last couple of days of work. I felt the frustration surging through my veins (if this story ever turns into a movie, I would like to be played the Rock. I imagine he has the acting skills to play a frustrated Lego builder). I stood up (a bit too fast so I got dizzy and had to sit down again). I was sitting down. Pondering. I really did not feel for taking the model apart. If only there were something I could do to help me push off the inevitable – just for a bit. I stood up (this time slowly). I looked around my Lego filled room. The models were getting dusty. I took my brush and went to work, cleaning the models. The radar dish on the falcon always falls off when dusting, but not today. Maybe it was a sign? I continued. I knocked over the Y-wing. It had not been a sign… Then I got to the Star Destroyer. The command tower had a thick layer of dust. I took the model down so I could give it a good cleaning. I got to the back. Saw the engines covered in cobwebs (well not cobwebs exactly, but it sounds more dramatic than ‘more dust’, so bear with me). I glanced at my old engine mod. Hmm, it could be better. I had had fun making it, but I hadn’t been concerned with the finer details. Well, now I had the time… The mod was pretty straightforward. It is just about putting bricks on top of bricks. Nothing was taken a part - that would diminish the purpose of relaxing :) I wanted to get the sloping engine housings as correct as possible along with all the piping. The remnants of the old mod can be seen behind the engines. How the detailing exactly look back there I am not 100% certain, but this gives a nice affect of depth. Yes, I have used a lot of lbg levers. I was lucky I had a small stash because they are pricey! This time the tables have turned! With the assitance of an Escort Frigate, the Corellian Corvette is hunting down the behemoth Imperial Star Destroyer – yes they are all both exactly to scale :) ISD 1600m. Frigate 300m. Corvette 150m. The Corvette is a modified version of the mini model Lego released a few years ago. The Frigate is what happened when I accidentally shot my Nebulon B with a shrink ray! After this, I could go back and take my moc apart.
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Hello All, So I have gotten back into Lego thanks to the gorgeous modular buildings and have found an issue regarding my older town sets not exactly..., fitting in? So I thought... time for an upgrade. So here we see the issue at hand: Not very consistent for my tastes at least. So here was the plan: And here are the results: Another: Another: And one from the back... now I still have to do the interior and I like the back-open style play so kept that (I will mod my modulars to be back-open play as well) Also need to reinforce one of the floor elements... but the idea is there. Well there you go.
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And... done. Finally finished the hospital and that is all I will upgrade for now, next step is the interiors and modding the green grocer to be playable from the back... which I will leave myself some time for. So for those that came late here is a link to the police station: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122523 And fire station http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122627 So one more time... here was the problem: Which is the odd one out? :) So here was the plan: And here the results another: And one more: And now from the back... here I have to say I did nothing with the interior yet, almost totally out of usable bricks at this stage... something for my next project... also you will note I stuffed up my colour order of the floor tiles... such is life, something for next time. So now that I am done, what do they all look like together? And another: And one from a lower perspective: And there you go... that will be it for a while as I do some other things but it was a lot of fun and I think the results are respectable. Got to love lego. Biz
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I love the UCS Slave 1, it has been my favourite OT ship since I owned the Kenner 3.75" version back in the early 80s. Unfortunately, my wallet doesn't love the price and with the amount of other Star Wars sets being released, it's not on the horizon. I'm not sure if the UCS is genuine minifigure scale or not (I'm sure someone's done the measurements), but I decided I actually wanted something that might fit more easily into a diorama, so I decided on a MOD of 8097. I was lucky enough to pick up a set without minifigures for less than £50 on eBay, and only needed one Bricks & Pieces and one Bricklink order to get what I needed (mostly bricks from the UCS). Without further ado, I give you the Not-really-Ultimate, Not-really-Collectors Series Slave 1! The main job was re-shaping the dark red bottom 'skirt' which was far too blocky in the original. This made the top/rounded end 2 studs wider, so a bit of fiddling was needed. I lost the flick fire mechanism, but kept the compartment play features as I felt the fit with the aesthetic and purpose of the craft. A bit of greebling on the fin arms made a world of difference. The 4x6 dark red tile with studs on 3 edges (I'm sure it has a name) actually lies a lot flatter and smoother than it looks here. The outline is not perfect, but I'm pretty happy at this scale. The nose guns are pretty much a copied/scaled down version of the UCS. Flight mode, with Boba Fett at the controls. The underside is pretty much as-was. The removal of the flick-fire rack means the interior is actually pretty empty. I've covered the opening with a small 4x6 hatch for now that may become some sort of removable holding cell. One final shot with Boba Fett scouting for his latest prey. No arm printing? Well, that's for UCS only! All comments and suggestions for improvements gratefully received and acted upon!
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Hello All, And here is the second upgrade to my town set, the fire station. Police station can be found here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=122523 So, once again the problem: (town sets don't really match the look of the new modular buildings) The plan! And the results: again from front From the back (this one I spent a bit more time on the interior as the fire station is the favorite of my son. And finally a zoom in on the living quarters: So there you go, one more left. Anyone else undertaking similar upgrades to their town sets?
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Hi guys, this is actually my first conversion of a City set-to-modular. I hope you like it! Here is the front side: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325898 (I'm sorry if it doesn't appear embedded, this is my first time). Here is the back: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325897 Here is the left: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325903 And here is the right: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325904 Here is the first (or ground) floor: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325901 And here is the second (or first) floor: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325899 Here is a little extra I decided to build after I finished the pizzeria. It's an alleyway!: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=6325902 Thanks for seeing the photos. I really hope you guys like it. Well, now off to finishing modularizing the 60026 pizzeria and bike shop!
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Edit: Please note that this thread includes a mixture of posts from the 2015 Pictures & Rumours which have been merged with appoah4's thread..... Thanks a lot for taking the time to respond. A lighter grey,in the palette as a compromise would indeed have been great, but you make do with what you have. Not that I'm second guessing your decisions, but I'd still like to point out that white doesn't look that bad on a transport ship like The Ghost, which isn't really that far removed from the Falcon as far as presentation goes.. I realize that it has a lot of bright colors to contrast with a bright white, but the white is also toned down with clever use of grey plating like it was done on ghost.. I guess I should just assemble the thing in white in LDD sometime and take a screengrab and see for myself :) EDIT: This is what it looks like at the end of Bag 6: Also, if I may ask one more question, was there ever an idea of giving The Ghost interior space a la Falcon? I promise, no more questions after this.
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This is a tutorial detailing how to modify a LEGO 9V train motor so that it may be powered independently of the track. This effort is part of a larger project inspired by Thorsten Benter’s article in Railbricks Issue 7 titled “PF and 9V Trains: The Best of Both Worlds”. Step 1) Open the 9V motor. This has been covered elsewhere, so it should suffice to say you carefully remove the 12 tabs holding the bottom cover on with an xacto blade or something similar. There is enough friction to hold the bottom cover in place later even without the tabs. Step 2) Remove all internal parts. Ignore the fact that I took this photo after completing step 3. Step 3) Use a rotary tool with a cutoff disk to bisect the metal strips in the top of the motor enclosure. These strips are exposed in the top studs, and we will later use them to pull power from the track and apply power to the motor. Very important: Be sure to apply NO PRESSURE when using the rotary tool. Instead, just lightly touch the spinning cutoff disk against the metal strip, and let the tool do the work. It will take some time, so be patient and careful. If you apply pressure, the metal strips will heat up and deform the plastic. If the plastic deforms, it will be impossible to interface with LEGO bricks and PCB adapters (like the one in the upper-right corner of the picture). Keep it light and easy. You will thank yourself later when you haven’t ruined your motor’s plastic housing. Step 4) Desolder the metal pieces from the electric motor. I don’t have a picture of this exact step because I used the electric motor from a Power Functions train motor. If replacing the 9V motor with a Power Functions motor, open up the PF train motor using a T6 bit, remove the electric motor, and desolder it from the wires. Step 5) Solder a short length of wire to each tab on the electric motor (do this outside the housing to avoid accidently melting it). I used 32 gauge DCC decoder wire, but you can use whatever you have that will fit inside the motor. Reassemble the motor with exception of the wheels and the bottom cover. Step 6) Attach the wires to the outermost halves of the metal strips; the innermost halves are connected to the wheels through the wipers. I used a silver epoxy for this. I chose silver epoxy for two reasons: 1) I didn’t want to risk melting the studs by soldering the wires to the metal strips, and 2) silver epoxy has a lower resistance than graphite epoxy. Step 7) Reinstall the wheels and make sure everything is running smoothly. This would also be a good time to lubricate the gears if you want to. Make sure you don’t get any lubricant on the electrical parts! Press the bottom cover onto what remains of the tabs, and you’re done! If you ever want to run the motor directly from track power, simply use a PCB adapter with a loopback connector or connect a LEGO wire (9V or light gray end of PF). This is what a PCB adapter looks like when installed on the motor. (I’ve updated the design since taking the previous photo.) And here is a connector leading up to the electronics (currently just a Power Functions battery box, soon to include a Bluetooth receiver) in my Horizon Express. The connector plugs into the PCB adapter. The PCB adapter is attached to the electrical studs on the motor. And the motor is pinned to the bottom plate of the locomotive. Now I can charge the battery in my train without taking it off the track, run it indefinitely on a mixed metal and plastic layout, and have non-line-of-sight control when I add the Bluetooth receiver. It really is the best of both worlds!
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