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Found 425 results

  1. Robert8

    Ideas for a CMFs

    Hello everyone! Welcome to this thread Here you'll find my wishlist for CMFs, which I illustrate with drawings. I'm not a professional designer but an amateur and I do this just for fun. The CMF theme is one of my favorite LEGO themes ever and collecting Minifigures is one of my favorite hobbies. I'm always looking forward to get some feedback which helps me to improve. SERIES A SERIES B SERIES C SERIES D SERIES E SERIES F SERIES G SERIES H SERIES I SERIES J SERIES K SERIES L SERIES M SERIES N SERIES Ñ SERIES O SERIES P SERIES Q ADVENT CALENDAR SERIES R SERIES S SPOOKY CALENDAR ADVENT CALENDAR 2 SERIES T SERIES U SERIES V SERIES W SERIES X SERIES Y SERIES Z --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- So, here is the first wave. Let's call it SERIES A. Hope you'll like it Enjoy exciting, new adventures with Series A of the Minifigures collectibles. This series includes the Gymnast, the Giraffe Suit Guy, the Troll, the Architect, the Southern Businessman, the Crossing Guard, the Town Crier, the Lifesaver Guy, the Piper, the Mime Girl, the Galactic Traveler, the Skydiver Girl, the Robotics Engineer, the Harpist, the Puppeteer and the Organ Grinder. Inside each ‘mystery’ bag you’ll find a minifigure with one or more accessories, plus a display plate and a collector’s leaflet 1. Gymnast Part assorment: New hula hoop piece, the S3 Sumo Wrestler hairpiece, regular head, torso and legs. 2. Town Crier Part assorment: New combo hairpiece: tricorn hat + ponytail, a new handbell, regular head, torso and legs. 3. Crossing Guard Part assorment: The Series 9 Policeman hat recolored in black, a 4L bar, a 2x2 octagonal tile with a clip, regular head, torso and legs. 4. Harpist Part assorment: New harp piece. Padme Amidala's bun hairpiece, regular head, torso and slope 5. Galactic Traveler Part assorment: New molded head: head + bubble combo, ray gun piece, 1x1 translucent stud, regular torso and legs 6. Southern Businessman Part assorment: New 10 gallon hat piece, 2 revolvers, the mustache piece, regular head, torso and legs 7. Mime Girl Part assorment: New hairpiece: beret + hair combo, regular head, torso and legs 8. Troll Part assorment: New molded head, club piece, regular torso and short legs 9. Lifesaver Guy Part assorment: New duck lifesaver piece, Poe Dameron hairpiece, flippers, regular head, torso, and legs 10. Puppeteer Part assorment: New Classic King puppet, new Jester puppet, top hat. Alfred's coattails cloth piece. Regular head, torso, and legs 11. Skydiver Girl Part assorment: S10 Skydiver helmet, parachute pack neckpiece, regular head, torso, and legs 12. Architect Part assorment: Gail the Construction Worker hairpiece recolored, suitcase piece, 2x4 tile, regular head, torso, and legs 13. Giraffe Suit Guy Part assorment: New giraffe mask, new giraffe tail, regular head, torso, and legs 14. Organ Grinder Part assorment: New music box neckpiece. Beret, classic monkey, regular head, torso, and legs 15. Piper Part assorment: Hunter's hat in dark blue, large feather, mouse, short cape, 3L bar, regular head, torso, and legs 16. Robotics Engineer Part assorment: Emmet's hard hat piece recolored, 1x1 round tile (x2), walkie talkie piece, S16 Babysitter's baby recolored, regular head, torso, and legs. And an extra head for the robot with red eyes Extra pic! The little robot's alternate head: And here is the group pic! The color is lavender, of course! This Series A would introduce 14 new moulds: hula ring, harp, duck lifesaver, beret+hair piece, music box, Classic King puppet, Jester puppet, ten gallon hat, tricorn hat+hair, handbell, Troll molded head, Galactic Traveler molded head, giraffe mask and tail Leaflet: Box distribution (60 minifigures) So, that's it for now. I expect to post more of these later this year SERIES B
  2. Hello all Technic fans, let me present you my tribute to the famous Mercedes-Benz G-Class iconic car series. As a relatively new member, I must introduce myself. My name is Igor, I'm from Russia. Adult Fan of Lego, but I usually do this hobby with my 12 year old daughter. In fact, I'm too lazy to upload my MOCs anywhere, but this time I finally decided to do it. As it turned out, creating an instruction also takes a lot of time and is not as fun process as it might seem at the beginning. My MOC is not really an original model. This amazing MOC by Artyom Gabbasov strongly inspired me to build my own MOD. For some reason, it looks like this MOC has not yet been presented here. Basically, what I built was a modification of it. I disfigured the hood with system and added a couple more motors. Here is a short video review so that you could form an opinion on the look and functions. Sorry for the video quality, I'm just an amateur with an old smartphone. A few words about the details... Body. Still, time goes on and it seemed to me that the old body was no longer cool, so the choice fell on the new body of 2018-2021. In addition, I decided that it would be a BRABUS tuning. In my opinion, the 2018 body looks really modern and I really like it. The body of the G-Class is square, so it won't be possible to work it out on this scale. Therefore, I focused on such details as the bumpers, the radiator grille, as well as the rear of the car. I especially wanted to make the new optics of the car recognizable, so it took me so many LEDs. The hood was conceived in the BRABUS style, but how successful it is for you to judge. Perhaps some of the parts in the MOC will be rare, but I wanted to make the body as black as possible, without blue dots from pins, etc. Interior. Here I tried to work it out as much as possible on this scale. Moreover, I wanted to keep the rear row of seats, so I managed to fit two BuWizzes in the trunk. Wheels. I used RC wheels in this model because they looked better and were more suitable for drifting. I'm sorry this is certainly not original Lego, but the choice of 62mm Lego wheels is not as huge as we would like. Functions. The car was originally designed for racing, drift and fun. But after thinking for a while, I decided that converting the MOC into a boring regular version shouldn't be too difficult. As the extra functions, in the end, I decided to make the front L-motors removable so that you could quickly change the main transmission ratio. And I also decided that the quick-release rear axle would fit too. So that during the game you can change it to a regular axle (with a differential). I also made two color variations of this car. I like blue even more, but some details in this color are even rarer (shock absorbers, e.g.) You can find higher resolution photos here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/193022960@N03/collections/72157719220016393 If you decide to repeat it, then a free instruction is available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-77314/igor1/mercedes-g63-brabus-2021 Feel free to share your opinion about the MOC or ask something further about it. Thank you for your attention.
  3. This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the updated version of my MOD, I have been editing this first post to show the latest version, 24 July 2021. From two sets of 31120 Medieval Castle; I built a Grand Castle, a trebuchet, and a four-legged dragon, no extra pieces required. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas please! A photo review is on Brickset, its format is easier to read compare to the forum posts. https://brickset.com/reviews/60120 Version 1 Design Notes please read towards the bottom of this post. Version 2 Design Notes Version 3 Design Notes Version 4 Design Notes Version 5 Design Notes Four-legged Dragon Design Notes LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD, Version 5 by R Y, on Flickr Here is a summary of the modifications up to version 5. I started building both sets simultaneously bag by bag over a few nights. I find this is the most efficient way to build two of the same sets, learning the building techniques and sorting out the pieces by building them into the castle. I wanted to build up four towers on the castle, incorporated the pavilion roof of model B into the great tower next to the yellow wooden keep. The keep is built up using two flipped window and chimney yellow wattle and daub buildings, shortened to fit inside the rampart. I added a second 1x8 reddish brown brick as a beam to the floor, rearranged them both so they are spaced equally from edges, moved the grey bricks to fit accordingly. With the watermill and dark azure plates only on 2 sides of the castle, my castle is sitting on the bend of a river, so I placed yellow wattle and daub structures with windows facing that way to have a waterfront view. I studied the towers on the gatehouse, which is composed of two sections each on the ramparts, I can use three sections for the great tower and one section to raise the corner tower by one level. The great tower became five storeys tall, I added two dragon gargoyles at the lower floor above the watermill to balance out the heavier top design. The crenels on all the battlements are raised by one brick high, the slope tiles on the merlons are flipped so they face outwards. Merlons on battlements should be as tall as soldiers to shield them from projectiles. I put the weathervane on top of the great tower, plenty of flags already on the other three towers. The location of the old staircase is awkward with my modification, I decided to move it to the corner tower section. This allowed me to complete the flooring on the keep, add in a tapestry table, plus the well on the ground floor. I had the stone battlements on the great tower for the first three versions of my MOD, then I finally realised it does not need to be there, as the alchemy study is enclosed and has no use for the machicolations. It was an easy fix; I swapped the stone battlements with the yellow wattle and daub boards. I added a brick high of yellow and brown bargeboard to the watch tower roof to add a splash of colour to the otherwise entirely grey corner. Moving to the front of the gatehouse, I tiled up the entire footbridge and build up the outside moat bank with olive green round half plates and some other pieces for support. A protruding portcullis was made by a clipped-on horizontal barred door. I find the coat of arms above the gate fiddly; it moves around with slightest amount of motion. I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements. The treasure chests have been moved to the gatehouse. I used two 22385 2x3 light bluish grey pentagonal tiles to replace the 2x2 dark bluish grey tiles above the gate. Those two dark bluish grey tiles went to the pavilion roof of the great tower, I didn’t like how the pentagonal tiles stuck out of the roof. The apple tree moved into the wall by one stud, has five 6x5 leaves, two green apples with four arches acting as branches, using a twig to connect two 6x5 leaves that are offset on top of each other. I changed all pink studs to yellow studs on the ground, so apple tree has pink flowers, and the ground has yellow daisies. I raised the ramparts to the same height on the second level of the four towers. I started on the section next to the five-storey great tower. I built a second set of clip and bar to secure the wall connections. I tried different arrangements of 1x3 and 1x4 arches, but only the 1x3 arches allow for the even spaced machicolations on battlements with no overhang onto the next section, I wanted to keep the castle in three sections for ease of move and storage. All hinge connections are removed from the model, so the plates are secure on both floors. The river is now connected on the two sections, as side walls can’t open up after I removed the hinges. I took out two round corners and one 2x4 plate, replaced them with one 4x12 plate, added some waves, an olive green slope and medium azure 2x2 round. The river is also lengthened by two bricks with a new green mossy rock tower base and buttresses. A phoenix shrine is built using round corner bricks. I used the 4x8 dark tan plates with 6x6 plates, so the footprint of the space is the same as a tower. Before I started, I changed the base of the corner tower section to the 8x16 tan plate, so there is enough depth for the columns. For the connection of the round bay window corners to the square battements, I tried a few variations, I decided on the sloped version using 3665 2x1 inverted slopes; I used one 3676 2x2 inverted double convex slope for the connection of dark tan plates. There are ten furnished spaces inside the keep tower and the corner tower sections: most of the designs are taken from the original LEGO model and modified. - Double beer barrel dispenser - Kitchen with bench and fire stove - Fruit stall - Well with a bucket - Blacksmith workshop - Phoenix shrine - Dining room with a tapestry table - Throne room - Lookout room with a monocular - Alchemy study I still had enough pieces to make the trebuchet, though had to use some different pieces. Lastly, I modified the LEGO dragon to a four-legged dragon, built up the torso so the ball joints for the wings and front legs are three plates apart, new shorter and slimmer front leg, a longer tail and wingspan with a new connection for the wrist claw. ORIGINAL POST ON 9TH JUNE Following last year’s 31109 Pirate Ship, I was very excited to find out LEGO is bringing back the Castle theme via the Creator 3-in-1 set 31120, it’s not as expensive as the Creator Expert sets and it’s within my budget to purchase two sets to do my MOD. I purchased two sets on 1st June from Hobbyco, the best hobby store in Sydney, I started building both sets simultaneously bag by bag over the next week. I find this is the most efficient way to build two of the same sets, learning the building techniques and sorting out the pieces by building them into the castle. This time I decided to use only the pieces from the two sets, no extras from my spare LEGO for this MOD. My original intention is to combine Model B, The Watch Tower into the enclosed castle, as there is no tower on the yellow wattle and daub manor house corner, I wanted to add it there. I reversed the location of the chimney and windows as the blacksmith with the watermill remained on the corner. I connected the same building to create a two-storey house/keep and removed the doors and window covers, shortened the roof, to allow it to fit inside the length of the original rampart. With the watermill and dark azure plates only on 2 sides of the castle, I think the castle is sitting on the side of a river, so I placed yellow wattle and daub structures with windows facing that way to have a waterfront view. With the physical model in front of me, I realised that I cannot simply add the original LEGO Model B on top as its base section is too big. I studied the towers on the gatehouse, which is composed of two sections each on the ramparts, I can use three sections for the great tower and one section to raise the watch tower by one level. I progressed pretty quickly with the pre-built sections, making sure the arrow loops and red/white banners are arranged in the same manner as the gatehouse. Please be aware that the two battlement arrangements are opposite of each other, only two sides have machicolations and I used the wrong battlement on the great tower, I only realised that after looking at photos that the machicolations are facing the keep’s roof, not the outside wall, I had to fix that and retook the photos again. I removed the prison cell windows so I can have the black window pieces on the keep and give the gold pieces to the great tower windows. I moved the archery target range to the pop out cell wall. The crenels on the towers are raised by one brick high, both the crenels and merlons on the ramparts are raised by one bricks high each, the slope tiles on the merlons are flipped so they face outwards. Merlons on battlements should be as tall as soldiers to shield them from projectiles. I put the weathervane on top of the great tower, plenty of flags already on the other three towers. Moving to the front of the gatehouse, I find the coat of arms above the gate fiddly, it moves around with slightest amount of motion. I swapped the two round bricks with two palisade bricks, topped them up with a pyramid tile, they lock in the crest securely and no more movements. The well is now secured to the back of the gatehouse by swapping out the brick yellow 2x2 plate with a 2x8 plate, located next to the food stall. I was still able to build the trebuchet, just have to use some different coloured pieces. I didn’t build any animals from the set initially as I was rushing to finish the castle, I can build two dragons from the pieces but I didn’t like how it has one claw per wing and no front legs. I built the fronts legs like the hind legs, expanded the wingspan and lengthen the tail by one section. I also added some more 1x1 roof tiles as fins on the back of the dragon. The Disney Castle 71040 dwarfs the Medieval Castle 31120 side by side, the Disney Castle is still my favourite LEGO set! They are what I have done for the MOD up to today, hope to see other’s MODs and feedbacks. Please share with us on comments. LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr LEGO 31120 Medieval Castle MOD of Two Sets, No extra pieces required by R Y, on Flickr
  4. Hello everybody, I didn't notice yet any MOD page of the Volvo EW160 excavator. I find this a really good set and as I'm an excavator lover, I couldn't resist to add a few modifications. I have already done 2- 3 and I have others in my mind. Here are the first ones I took away the cab elevating mechanism. I find the excavator better proportioned this way. It looks a lot more like the real machine and IMHO also a lot nicer. The cab was in the original model too much forward and got in the way of good playability. I still have to get rid of the grey beam behind the cab. I also put a swivel and turning mechanism on the grab, which also looks better and approaches the looks of the real machine. The mods I'm planning is to arrange the hoses on the boom and add rigid hoses.
  5. I Backdated the war-bot a bit, using design / color cues from Blacktron 1. I also used parts and ideas from the Iron Monger set 76190 (the main body) & Hydra Stomper set 76201 (Laser power / jet pack thing on the back of the robot) mech models from Marvel, along with claw from the old Agents 2.0' Robot Attack. (set 8970) The legs and laser arm are holdovers from the "Build Better Bricks" Iron Giant instructions. I tried to make it as different as possible to the original blue robot while still using the same basic skeleton. This "war-bot" is supposed to be an opposite (yet equal in strength) foe for my Classic Space fleet, and an enemy to "fight" at any future displays and on my space layout. He is slightly shorter in stature than my Classic Space robot, but his laser arm and crusher-claw hand make up for it! Laser power / jet pack thing is on the back of the robot. All the parts left to find / order on this MOC. This MOC will be built as soon as funds allow, and has replaced the BT3 robot on the enemy... er, to-build list. Looks much better than before anyway! NOTE: The chest should have the “upside down tri-force” logo printed on it when built in real life. Any thoughts? Comments, questions, and complaints welcome!
  6. This model was taken from a Rebrickable MOC of the LEGO Worlds spaceship "PUG-Z" that user "TOB1 bricks" recreated here. I took the free instructions' MOC, and changed them (I removed the toilet, as it was causing problems with the roof) and altered the colors from orange, yellow, and bright light orange to a predominantly black and red model with some light / dark grays thrown in for good measure. I also modified other parts of the ship, making the radio antennas a bit shorter and adding trans-green "freeze" blasters to the ship where the forward-facing lights used to go. The rear of the ship has this 2 x 2 round symbol for the ship's owner / affiliation, along with tow small booster rockets alongside the main engine. The top opens up / out and the computer wall folds down to become a bed. (I had to take the toilet out as it wasn't playing nice with the roof in LDD.) Oh, and the landing legs fold backwards for flight. Here we see the owner of the ship (and his laser pulse rifle), who is a methane breathing reptile-like alien named Zath-ann. He wears a rebreather to properly function in oxygen-based environments and doesn't take it off in his ship because he hasn't got it converted to a methane-orientated life support system yet... it's on the to-do list though. Special thanks to Carl Greatix (designer for TT games) & Mark Stafford for the in-game model. Any thoughts on this MOD? Comments, questions, and complaints always welcome!
  7. A while ago i bought the Whomping Willow set as an effort to complete my Hogwarts Collection. A lot can be done better and more detailed on this set, but for now i decided to just give the car a little rework. I know the car was designed by Lego for durability and playability but i really didn´t like that odd roof. So i decided to take matters (and bricks) into my own hands and redesign the car: 20210228_172918 20210228_172819 20210228_172853 As you can see, i incorporated a lot of slightly mismatching colors into the car since the one in the movie isn´t exactly brand new...to describe it politely. The car has dings, dents, and spotty paint. I also tried to detail the interior a bit. It still might not fit 4 minifigs, but at least 2 can be seated and some luggage can be put behind the seats...and yes, the back rests can be adjusted. 20210228_163455 As you know, the car gets quite a beating from the Whomping Willow after it crashes into the tree, so i decided to "demolish" it. 20210228_163132 20210228_163005 20210228_162937 I hope you guys like my version. Comments are apprechiated.
  8. In this topic I hope to collect all of my future mocs. I mostly build vehicles, as they are my favorite topic. I mostly build in black and orange for bodywork because I have the 42111 charger and 42093 corvette. The first moc I will share is a quick, simple pullback chassis with three pullback motors for rear wheel drive.
  9. 20feet

    Modified TIE Fighter MOC

    I've made a lot of special modifications myself. Hi, this is my first real post here. Let me know what I'm doing wrong! I built @Jerac's TIE Fighter a couple years ago, and I've been tinkering with it off and on ever since. This was the first MOC I bought and built, and I remain very impressed by the strength, elegance, and ingenuity of the design. I've seen a lot of TIE MOCs since, and Jerac's is probably still my favourite. I wanted to say that clearly at the start, before getting into the nit-picking! Here's what I changed: Wing Gaps I always found the holes in the wings very distracting. They're easy enough to fill with 1x4 tiles, if you remove a plate from the base of the horizontal spokes. The result not only looks better, but holds the spokes in place more securely. I added 1x1 plates to the top and bottom corners to fill another gap. Canopy/Gun Mount I was also dissatisfied with the canopy/guns/controls assembly, which is a precarious stack of rods and clips. It's fiddly and fragile, and leaves extraneous T-pieces sticking out the front. Why did Jerac build it this way? I think because the cockpit's top, front and bottom dishes wrap around the quarter domes and they need to fit snugly to approximate a sphere, so the space available to mount the canopy and guns is incredibly tight. My solution was to mount the canopy on old robot arms. They're the right length, and they have a squared off neck where I've attached the gun mounts, which helps hold the guns in position (at least on 1 axis). Top Hatch Mount The top hatch in Jerac's model sits noticeably to the rear of centre. It's a bit tricky to fix because the hatch mount connects to the top of the central hexagon, which also needs to be positioned precisely. I had to rework my initial solution when I redid the rear - more on that below. Wing Construction I love Jerac's smooth stacked-brick wings, but they give the impression of subtle stripes running parallel to the wings edges, like concentric hexagons, whereas the real TIEs have prominent ridges perpendicular to the edges. It occurred to me that I could suggest these by using tall 1x1 bricks instead of long bricks. Stacked 1x1s do not make a strong wall, but because the hub/spokes/rim design is so secure, the finished wings are plenty solid. The main drawback of this design is that light can shine through the tall seams when you look straight on, lessening the sense of solidity. But I find the overall effect delightful. I used 1x8 tiles for all the spokes, to clear some extraneous studs off the wings. Interior I spent a lot of time trying to mimic the cockpit's triangular panels in some way, but couldn't find a solution at this scale. So I went for a looser interpretation, inspired by the beautiful Inthert version and Jerac's TIE Defender. The interior space in this model is very limited (even the Defender has an extra stud of depth) but I was able to include a lot of detail. I also made space for the newer, oversized TIE pilot helmets. I borrowed the control design from the Bricks Feeder/Inthert interior. I'm disappointed that LEGO has never printed the TIE Fighter targeting display. I may print my own sticker for that. The top hatch isn't functional, but it does need to swing up for cockpit access, so I added some simple details underneath. The scale is way off, but I like the way the 1x2 grills evoke the skylight pattern on the hatch. Cockpit Side Greebling I wanted to include the little dark grey bow ties on either side of the canopy. This was challenging for a few reasons: They should be centred, which means holding a small piece in the middle of a 2-stud space and minimizing the gaps around it. Everything should be curved to match the quarter domes. I also wanted to accommodate interior detailing in this space. Finally, there's an identical pattern in the rear, around the engines. These areas should look similar in front and back (see below). I'm quite satisfied with this solution: Wing Spars The arms (technically "spars") attaching the cockpit to the wings are full of Lego-unfriendly details: cylinders, thin rings and fins, and the notched plates next to the cockpit that slope in like 4 directions at once. Their diameter is small and they need to be strong. I did my best to imitate the details while sticking with Jerac's sturdy plate-based design. I swapped the 1x4 brackets for 1x2s to clear a couple studs off the front. There are more brackets inside to add strength and attach interior details. I tried a lot of different pieces for the bent T detail next to the wings. Pneumatic t-pieces seemed to best capture the shape. I'm dissatisfied with basically every part of these arms, but I haven't seen other versions at this scale that I prefer. Most of the key details are at least present, although crudely represented. Rear The central rear ring is the last piece of the original that I altered (so far). I'd done earlier revisions of the engines and hatch mount that retained the quarter ring tiles. I appreciate their smoothness even though they're too flat, and sink the central hexagon behind a circular cutout. I finally noticed that the outer diameter of this ring should match the top hatch and front canopy – it should be 5 studs (scaled to the overall model) or 6 (matching the canopy and hatch). That pushed me to build a custom ring with the key features of: 6 stud diameter Outer cone shape Inner inverted cone, and Prominent central hexagon with slightly recessed black interior. Drawbacks: I couldn't find a way to keep the red engine centers with this design I also couldn't include the bump on the top of the cone. The top hatch sits ~1mm too far forward (but closer to centre than the original) The outer diameter is 6 studs, but only at the points where the handlebars attach The handlebars aren't angled quite right, so the clips that form the ring are a bit skewed The inner inverted cone is too deep And of course this segmented design is not as smooth as the rest of the model. In spite of all that, I think the shapes are quite accurate for this scale, and I'm satisfied with the result. A Note on Scale The cockpit is about 9 studs tall, including the top hatch and bottom dish. At that scale the front canopy, top hatch and rear cone should all be 5 studs in diameter. It would be interesting to see a TIE MOC scaled up to fit the 6x6 dish – a cockpit diameter of ~11 studs. Conclusion I've changed most of the pieces and the details in this model, without changing much about the structure or general appearance. I'm still tinkering with it. I've got some ideas to rework the wings and spars, but that's quite a big project. Some of these modifications are a matter of taste, but I'm quite pleased with the results. I'm interested to hear others' opinions. Credits In addition to Jerac, I appreciated and drew inspiration from: Inthert and Bricks Feeder: Beautiful interiors Koen Zwanenburg: Clever cockpit side details, more accurate shape of the wing hubs (although I stuck with Jerac's for now) Fuku Saku: Nice front and back cockpit details. The rear cone piece is clean and accurate, but loses the center details. Force of Bricks: Interesting arm details and rear shape. If I do a more thorough redesign I'll likely borrow a lot from this model. Pasq67: Impressive details at a smaller scale. Cereal Eating Builder: Incredible accuracy at a much larger scale. Reference Photos The EFX prop replica seems to be the most accurate model available. This gallery is my main resource. For proportions I referred to this blueprint from the Tie Fighter Owners' Workshop Manual Some pictures of original props here A discussion of TIE Fighter scale
  10. Ahoy there, and welcome to Jose's Inn, located on the scenic Skull Rock boardwalk just a stone throws away from the pirate port itself! This Inn has all amenities of (both ship-or-land-based) home, such as five cozy beds and a large wine cellar stocked with all best ale's, beers, wines and spirits. The food served is guaranteed by our cook Dan "Dysentery" McGee to be the best served in all the world's navies, with no-maggots* crackers a staple of the pre-dinner meal! We are also proud to feature twice-a-week amusements by "Davy Jones and the Cursed Immortals" as our house band on Monday and Friday nights. Come around for such hearty songs such as "Point of Know Return", "Wooden Ships", "Octopus's Garden", with "Hotel in Tortuga" as their usual closer. The rear of the tavern, with the crow's nest-like lookout on top. Inside and upstairs are the (cost is per night) beds. Downstairs is the tavern area. So come on down to Jose's Inn, where our famous waitstaff (Manfred the waiter on left, Rosemary the barkeep on right) will treat you like old friends! (*Crackers may or may not contain maggots. Resulting disease may vary; Check with your local barber for more details on whether the crackers may be safe for you!) Davy Jones and the Undead Immortals Band are, from left to right: - Cpt. Vanderdecken, on drums (cursed God on a trip round the horn of Africa, so God cursed him) - Corporal Punishment, on guitar (from a Spanish expedition to El Dorado) - Major Paine, on bass guitar (officer from the English Civil War) - Davy Jones, on vocals (made a deal with goddess Calypso to ferry souls to underworld) NOTE: Their instruments are made from ectoplasm and not visible to living beings, thus they are not visible here. MODEL NOTES: This tavern idea came to me in early February, and was built in late May, and is based off set 31109's B-model with the printed sign from set Pirates of Barracuda Bay (from the Ideas set 21332 number . I thought I should build accommodations for my pirate crews upon arriving at Skull Rock, and it will hook into the boardwalk via clips on both sides of the model's dock easily. The song list is the one I thought long and hard about... thinking of REAL songs with pirate or ship themes, however slight, was hard! However, the easiest one to add was because of @Professor Thaum and his awesome pirate-y rendition of Hotel California, as seen in the post linked to above in the actual song list and again here, because I love it so much. Comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints welcome!
  11. This is a mod of the Marvel 76173 Spider-man and Ghost Rider vs Carnage set, but since it is Marvel no more - it parks with other Speed Champions cars I have - I placed it in Town sub-forum like other SC style car MOCcers do. The mod includes styling changes that made the car resemble a full-blown (pun intended) 1968 Charger with some extra semi-realistic goodies while maintaining the Speed Champions vibe. Mod includes: adding 1968 tail-lights + front blinkers moving fuel cap to a proper spot and removing the other one adding side exhausts + stereo antenna + side-view mirror on driver's side creating a sleeker, "shotgun" style scoop (still using the stud shooters) and a filled hood adding a suggestion of rear suspension springs + extended and reinforced fuel tank creating a suggestion of an interior with a gear shifter and two gauges + moving the seat and steering wheel one plate higher + moving the rear window one stud back The mod required use of some extra parts, of course. Being a fan of a '68 and knowing that a vast majority of Mopar fans prefer 1969 and 1970 Chargers and that the 1968's representation is way smaller among toys - did you know that Hot Wheels still haven't made a '68 Charger model? it's an outrage! - I knew I was gonna built my own 1968 one day. The marvel set, of course, did a lot of work for me, but still I'm really happy with this mod. I have bought the Marvel 76173 set purely for this purpose; not only was it cheaper than 75983 2018 Dodge Challenger SRT Demon and 1970 Dodge Charger R/T , but it also felt way more versatile platform for mods.
  12. Hi all! my new project is ready: Luke Skywalker's X-Wing Fighterreferring to the final episode of Season 2 of The Mandalorian. I wanted the X-Wing in my collection, but the 75301 is average for me, and the 75218 is already very expensive.This is my MOC/MOD based on a set of 75218 and a bit of a 75301. I think the design from Lego (75218) is very good, so I just wanted to improve a few things and build it from easy available elements. The full presentation is now available on my youtube channel - EDGE OF BRICKS PDF Instructions is available: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-76703/EDGE OF BRICKS/xwing-fighter/#details
  13. This dragon was designed as a prototype biological-machine hybrid for scouting out in space for objects of unfamiliar origin in Blacktron 3 territory. It used a recently-discovered dead race of space dragons' DNA in combination with robotic technology to quickly achieve this goal. As the DNA was degraded significantly, and the robotic tech tried and tested, it was felt to combine the two would provide a failsafe option in case a suddenly aware cyber-being became a reality: a over-ride of the nervous system by a massive electrical pulse, which would kill it dead by it's own power source. (basically, a kill switch) This code would be given by a super-secure signal delivered via hyperspace to wherever the creature was to kill it in three minutes of becoming aware. (This would be considered a mercy killing by Blacktron standards, as the being in question would be confused and in pain from cyber implants and lack of knowledge of this time / place after it's race had been wiped out.) The first 13 prototype cyber-beings developed were deemed unworthy of being used for various reasons, such as overloading of fusion core upon primary boot-up. The 14th version, called DRAG-00N (after going alphabetically through the first 13 letters before arriving at prototype "N", plus the two number spaces for possible future firmware upgrades.) was finally approved for further tests by Blacktron High Command three Earth-years (and millions of stud-credits spent) after starting the project. The entire BT3 high command wanted to be there in person upon full boot-up, but decided not to, as it was bad luck in there eyes to be there in person after so much failure. Hologram representation would have to suffice. It was a very smart move, considering what happened next. The DRAG-00N, upon final boot-up, became aware within seconds, and, being so firmly entrenched with it's technological implants, deleted the fail safe from it's memory banks in the first minute, before it could even be sent out by the high command. While the creature killed everyone in a 12 mile radius of the laboratory where it was built / born, (It was still too unsteady to kill everyone by flying around yet.) the high command scrambled to get it's codes secured. They had realized the being would slice communication channels to anticipate any strikes against it... Needless to say, they failed to do that quickly enough, and in addition, it armed the planet's missiles and reactor core against any intruder coming near the planet for as long as time still marched forward or the planet's system existed. It then left the system it was born in, but scorched everything living on that sorry rock before doing so. It flew to the next system over, which happened to be controlled by the Unitron Security League and destroyed several worlds for everything resembling life above cockroaches. (By this point, the Blacktron Commanders had been informing anyone who would listen about it's rouge robot, and trying to stop retaliatory attacks against THEM for something they technically had no control over.) It decimated everything in it's path to the galactic core, leveling worlds and entire systems in it's wake using it's seemingly-endless Atomic fire breath. The only thing that was thought of to give ALL systems regardless of political orientation a fighting chance of mounting a galactic resistance to their new menace, was a lone, very old Astro-bot, numbered 33 and owned by Classic Space Command. Thirty-three was awakened, and sent on an intercept path, using all possible hyper-speed to reach the Galaxy Core all in 10 minutes. There, it met it's opponent in the field of battle, above the black hole that sits smack dab in the Galactic Core's very heart. The dragon stuck first, and managed to tear off a panel on the front of ol' 33. The robot managed to get in some good shots with it's laser-eyes, before the dragon starting to use it's atomic breath at close range. This had a devastating effect on 33's weapons circuitry, and almost killed the robot on the spot. Thankfully, backup arrived in the form of several fleets of varying allegiance, all bonded by the goal of killing DRAG-00N. It was a fierce battle, with several capital ships destroyed or made immobile. One Spyruis cyber-slicer frigate was thrown into the black hole itself for trying to hack the cyborg's implants by said cyborg. Eventually, a hail of fire finished off what 33 had started: the beast died with a final act of vengeance on it's attackers: it initiated the meltdown countdown of it's fusion core, which would kill everyone in the vicinity, including the assembled fleets of most of the galaxy's forces. The Astro-bot then threw the burning hulk into the black hole, which then took the brunt of the explosion when it finally died. Astro-bot 33 went on to be fixed up and completely overhauled, but not before the assembled fleets gave there unanimous congratulations to the giant robot in the form of a treaty to mark the day, the 3rd of May here on Earth, as "Galactic Robo-Savior" day. Blacktron command even commented, saying it would destroy all materials within the dead planet where the cyborg was born concerning said creature, once it was deemed possible to do so... rumor speculates, however, that some extra copies of parts of the being's cyber-mainframe were removed from the lab it was born in before final boot-up for placement with "top scientific personnel" for future study. No one alive today knows the whole story on that... or do they? NOTES: Yes, this model is build-able, and it will be built soon. The model is missing parts, I know, it just doesn't have them in LDD. Also, the robot is missing some panels, as they don't fit in LDD... which won't matter when it is build in real life. Speaking of the bot, it's a Classic Space version of Build Better Bricks' Iron Giant with the head of the previous @hachiroku version of the model's head added on. (consider it a mashup of the two Iron Giant models) you can see more screenshots of the 'bot here at this thread for all my Classic Space models. Any thoughts?
  14. I had the Ninjago jungle dragon but found it too cutesy and canine, and didn't like the gaping wings. I wanted a creature that was more ferocious looking and more lizard-like. So I modded the giant war lizard pictured below. Apart from eight gold horn pieces (see picture), a light bley 2 x 6 plate and a light bley 1 x 4 plate, all the parts came from the set. In that sense, it's a re-build, not just a mod. Structurally, it's unchanged from the original jungle dragon. Cosmetically though, it's more different than appears at first sight. The minifigures also used parts from outside the set including some third party parts, but the focus here is the giant war lizard. Although I like some Ninjago builds and minifigures, I'm not particularly invested in the franchise and don't consider any of my display collection to be Ninjago, hence this post being in Historic Themes, not Action and Adventure. Questions? Comments? Concern for the crazy shaman who summoned this beast?
  15. Hello together, after the ulysses space probe was released, i wanted to build my own version. Forr me personallyl, the ulysseus spacecraft lacked details, a lot of things were simply left out. The MOC was only made using Bricklink Stud.io, free instructions can be found here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-74025/JBs Brick Creations/ulysses-space-probe-more-detailed/#details So here is my version of the famous space probe, I hope you enjoy it. Greetings Jakob
  16. Hello everybody! This is my version of the 75055 Lego Star Destroyer. SD_1, on Flickr I know there are many fantastic models from the Imperial Star Destroyers in this forum, such as Raskolnikov's ISD Aggressor. Unfortunately I do not have the space (and money) for such a big model. My goal was to make this ship a little bigger and keep the playability of the set. So I enlarge the original version of the size of the Lego Imperial Star Destroyer 6211 from 2006. The construction is similar to the original construction of 75055. You can just put it on the table and open the panel easily. I mainly used parts from the set 75190. Due to the weight I had to stiffen the underbody with long technic bricks and wedge plates. SD_2, on Flickr SD_3, on Flickr SD_4, on Flickr SD_5, on Flickr SD_6, on Flickr My model will also feature an interior. More pics will follow soon. What do you think about that? MAG85
  17. Hey everyone, you must check out the share your trucks forum for many talented eurobricker’s inspirational truck designs! But this topic is for those who have made their own custom trailers and mods that they are proud of! I will start first Here is my trailer for my custom Semitruck. I am currently designing a nice off-road capable caravan which I hope some of you would like to see, I am almost finished and I will post it here when I am done.
  18. ptrg

    76161 UCS Batwing mods

    Hi, first post about doing a mod, but I felt pretty passionate about this one. Having grown up with the "original" Batman films, I loved the UCS Batmobile, and while I also love the lego Batwing, the elongated cockpit really struck me as a bit NQR. I tried various mods on mecabricks, and while the most accurate "shrinkage" (based on the original studio model) of the length of the cockpit would require the removable of (two) of the sections of 1/4 clear wall elements, this would require a full blown redesign of the seat and cockpit to fit it all in the remaining one. I also tried utilizing the new UCS A-wing canopy, but it's width isn't the 8 studs required (6 only), and again, a full redesign would be needed (which is a shame as it is a more accurate shape compared to this sets design) So finally, I settled on removing 2x BOW 1/4 4X4X1 which effectively shortened the length by about 2-3 studs (along with removal of other parts that were between the two cockpit sections). This allowed me to move the front of the canopy backwards 1 stud (more screen accurate) and also move the back "shell" (WALL ELEMENT CONE 3X6X6) forwards - again more screen accurate. To complete the look, I'm planning on printing some back vinyl to make the rear section of the canopy a sloping black area (rather than clear all the way back then a vertical black where the shell starts). The other major change I made was to remove some of the dark grey "detailing" to remain more screen accurate - especially the spoilers. I narrowed them by a stud to take advantage of the void below them created by removing the two LDG 2x6 bricks, which then allowed them to sit much more flush when down (with some detailing underneath 1 stud lower than the rest of the wing area) Instead of writing more, maybe I'll just show what I'm talking about, as it will hopefully make more sense that way. Happy with the overall result. Original model: Original studio model:
  19. Bigdwazda

    AT AT MOD 75288

    So, this is my mod based on the pictures from @Kozikyo86 I have to say that the mods to this set were easy to make and as always the only difficulty was parts. I had to take apart a good number of sets, mainly for smooth tiles. However, In my opinion it was totally worth it. First off, the head, Here i just added some parts to smooth out the jaw and the front end. I also replaced the black window with red, I am not sure why Lego went with black, red looks much more menacing for a robot dog. I also changed the canopy and increased the size as per the mod. Next, the legs, again this follows the moc, this was just a case of adding smooth tile pieces and added a few extra parts to the top of the leg to create a more bulky outline. In addition i added a few plates on the inside of the legs, to bring the depth closer to the technic beams. I tried to bring these totally level but it looked too bulky. I also tried making using 2 stud wide smooth tiles to totally cover the legs, again, this looked too bulky. Next up, the sides of the AT AT. This was an area where plates were in short supply so I had to use what I could find. I followed as closely as I could and made sure that any studs showing looked like they were purposfully placed. I still think the panel over the front leg needs adjusting slightly. I also added some small pieces on the leg joints. These look great from a distance and are easy to remove, i think they add a little extra interest. Bottoms of the legs, I added some smooth quarter pieces on top of the round circles. I also increased the height of these by one extra plate. On the (real) thing these parts are really high. I also echoed some of the detail on the outide of the legs onto the inside sections. All in all, I am very happy with the final result and I think it looks great on display with my other star wars stuff.
  20. What do you do when you love the look of a set (80024), but don't want to start a new theme? Sell the figs and re-theme it! Here are Neo-Classic Adventurers Johnny Thunder, Pippin Reed, and Professor Kilroy rafting and flying in on their new Aero-Nomad balloon. The expedition is to explore the Legendary Flower Fruit Forest, but they're unaware it's the stronghold of the fearsome guardian Tygurah, and his minions. While most are just very minor MODs and minifigure swaps to 80024, there is also MOC remake of the Aero-Nomad (7415) Set. More LEGO - Neo-Classic Adventurers photos, on Flickr
  21. Since I started LEGO Star Wars in 2015, I wanted to own a Tantive IV. The sets from 2001 and 2009 were far too expensive on the secondary market. That's why I was really happy when a new version was announced. There was a lot of discussion about the set. Everyone had a different expectation. I am glad that it has become an improved version of the 10198. Nevertheless, there were a few things that bother me. The biggest criticism for me is the cockpit. I do not like stickers. In a few years they will take off and then the model looks bad. That's why I built it with bricks. The role model was the @Kit Bricksto UCS Tantive - CR-90 Corvette. More improvements: - Removed the stud shooters!!! - Removed the handle - Colour matching - Facing the bottom with inverted bows - Extension gun turrent on the botton - Radar turett mirrored down - Brickbuilt upper wings between conference section und radar tower My next goal is to change the inside of the cockpit, because at the moment, Captain Antilles can’t sit inside. Maybe you have more ideas for improvements. Then like to post here. Here are the pictures. Tantive_IV-01, on Flickr Tantive_IV-02, on Flickr Tantive_IV-03, on Flickr Tantive_IV-04, on Flickr Tantive_IV-05, on Flickr Tantive_IV-06, on Flickr Tantive_IV-07, on Flickr Tantive_IV-08, on Flickr Tantive_IV-09, on Flickr
  22. This topic has a lot of photos inside, to make it easier for everyone to see the latest version of my MOD, I have editted this first post to show version 5, 14th Nov 2020. Your feedback is welcome or share your MOD ideas Please! Port View by R Y, on Flickr Bow by R Y, on Flickr Stern Starboard by R Y, on Flickr My Lego collection consisted mainly of SW sets and its MOCs, I was tempted to get the 21322 Barracuda Bay when it came out in April but decided to save up for the UCS A-Wing, which I still haven’t got around to build yet, I have been modify the 75175 A-wing. A-Wing Mod by R Y, on Flickr I wasn’t too keen on the 31109 Creator Pirate Ship when I first saw its photos, especially the brick-built sails. During the Queen’s Birthday long weekend, I was reading posts on OZLUG of buying multiple sets to make it a bigger ship; that grabbed my attention as I mod all Lego sets where possible after I figured out Bricklink. However, at RRP of $160 AUD each, I might as well just buy the 21322 for $300 AUD; then again thanks to OZLUG, I realised that they are $119 at Kmart, meaning $238 worth of investment, no brainer! I quickly read up on reviews from Brickset and Brother’s Brick, how the completely brick-built design is its selling point, instead of using specialized boat hull pieces. My local Kmart had no stock, so I went to the next nearest one, nothing on the shelves again and a store girl told me all they have is already on the shelfs even though the online stock check shows limited availability. Disappointed, I was about the leave the store empty handed before I talked past the customer service counter, there was only one person in line so I decided to wait and check. The service girl was very helpful and checked the stock room for me, it turned out they do have three at the back, which I gladly picked up two; she told me apparently people try to steal Lego all the time, so they keep the good stuff at the back. I had to wait for my baby to settle and sleep before started building that night. As the original model is built in 3 sections: bow with forecastle, waist, stern with captain’s cabin; I decided to build 2 x waists sections and have 3 masts. I always build repetition sections step by step simultaneously instead of finishing one section and start another, personally I find this method quicker. My aim is to stick to the original Lego design and finish the hull asap, redesign the masts into foremast, mainmast and mizzen mast, and use the remaining pieces to touch up and make the 2 waists transition smoothly. 31109 Long Side View by R Y, on Flickr I wanted to rig the ship from the bowsprit to the stern flagpole, I had to move the “Plate Round 2 x 2 with Pin Hole and 4 Arms Up” to the mainmast beneath the lookout so the arms are equal distance to the diagonal spars from the foremast and mizzen mast. I spent more time on the foremast and rigging than any other sections. I tried a few different arrangements before settled down on the current layout, where the rigging goes down to the bowsprit from the upside-down diagonal spar. I used light bluish grey Technic Bush instead of the yellow ones provided. The hose piece is still slightly short and the bowsprit is pulled upwards, but the jib sail hides most of it. Overall, I was happy that I achieved my goal. Masts and Rigging by R Y, on Flickr I added a 1 x 2 red brown plate to each of the gun port openings so they are not too close to the waterline, I initially wanted to add 2 pieces per opening, but they were too high and affected the guns inside. You can tell where each of the section ends with the breaks from the 3027 6 x 16 plate in dark tan secured with 2 x 2 blue round tiles. I made sure the 1 x 4 special plates overlap the gap to secure the sections. The alternating red and light orange strip along the deck worked out perfectly, I was initially worried that I may get a double up of same coloured plates with my MOD. Joins of the Sections by R Y, on Flickr As Lego only gives half the number of guns compare to the gun ports, having 2 sets gives me 4 guns to fill up the front gun deck, squeezed 2 minifigs inside with torches. Gun Deck with Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I plated over the opening next to the gangways on the 2nd waist, to make it look like a quarterdeck, but not really raised due to the limitation of my skills in the mod. I really like the brick-built rowing boat from the alternative Skull Island bult, I made it longer using 2 x 2 slopes at the stern and made other changes as certain parts were already used in the main ship built. I also built a boat rack with 4 cheese slopes and some plates. The rowing boat fills up on the empty quarterdeck perfectly, I really like how it turned out. Rowing Boat by R Y, on Flickr With the 2 sets of 3 human minifigs, I swapped around their outfits, brought in a pair of black legs to swap out the peg leg. Now I have 6 different minifigs, I left out the epaulette for the officer to differentiate him from the captain. a9 by R Y, on Flickr a8 by R Y, on Flickr I built the red/green parrot and blue seagull according to the instructions, again had to use some different pieces due to availability. Lastly, I added the pet baboon hanging off the shroud, it’s a really fun build where its arms and waist are twistable to get a good pose. Baboon by R Y, on Flickr I really liked how this MOD turned out, this is probably the cheapest and easiest way to get a Lego 8-gun full-rigged-ship (three or more masts), even the 21322 only has only two masts. It’s around 58cm long from the tip of the bowsprit to the edge of stern flag, around 36cm tall from the tip of mainmast to the bottom of the hull, 19cm wide at the horizontal spars. With the elongated waist, it makes the forecastle and poop deck seem small in comparison, a bit out of proportion to be honest; but at this stage, I don’t have the skills to design and make them bigger. Side Front View by R Y, on Flickr Top Front View by R Y, on Flickr Back View by R Y, on Flickr
  23. Hello all, With the possible release of lego technic mercedes Zetros, I decided to rebuild my Technic unimog U400 into an unimog U4023. I could do this thanks to the recently aquired Claas Tractor Tyres and the abundant parts of the Liebherr - I find the Liebherr a fantastic set for parts - I modified the cab and I will integrate 2 control+ L motors and 1 XL control+ motor for drive. First I started with the cab, the chassis I'll do next The cab is build on the same base of the U400 cab The cab is not 100% true to the original, lack of various grilles, the front wheel arches are not integrated in the cabin, the air intake etc, but I find it a great start if i can say so myself. The cab features lockable doors Here is a foto of the cab on the original U400 unimog chassis with Claas Tyres. So the next project is to rebuild the chassis with the control+ motors and I also plan to rebuild the front bumper to match the U4023 bumper. Hope you liked it so far
  24. As a bike lover, I'm so glad that LEGO had released such a beauty beast - Ducati Panigale V4 R. But there are a lot of missing parts, so I'd added the following improvements:- brake levers- front fender/mudguard, but the movement of the forks will be limited- brake calipers- front turn signal lights- solid fuel tank- remove the 2 rubber bands, without loosing their functions- retractable kickstand- move the rear fender closer to the wheel The MOD is posted on rebrickable at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-62667/ Thanks for watching.
  25. Hello everyone, 40448 is a pretty nice set, but I don't like it doesn't have functional doors. So I modified it to have a functional hood, doors, and trunk. Now the minifigures can get back the surfing board to surfing. The instruction is listed in my video. Welcome to take a look :)