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Found 538 results

  1. Hello everyone. This is my modification of the truck vith container trailer. It is RC with power functions. 1 servo motor for steering 1 M motor for driving it is simply very cute to me and just fantastic to drive with this litle cute truck. and one simple video That's all for now. Best regards, Valter
  2. I build Lego transformers but this will mostly be about my rc cars and other technic related builds
  3. Hi everyone, This is my first MOC to be published here on the forum: a small/compact rally hatchback. It is not a copy of an existing car, but the front is inspired by modern Audi's. The design parameters that I want to achieve include the following: Fast drivetrain Lots of torque (the car must be able to drive on tarmac, dirt and sand) An average scale of 1:12.5 Front and rear independent suspension Front and rear PF lights Servo steering with small turning radius Buwizz 2.0 to increase performance (located under the bonnet for better weightdistribution and easy acces) A light and rigid chassis Openable doors and bonnet A realistic/clean interior (no visible moters/wires/chassis beams) A gapless body, using rather pannels than beams Drift (on sand) It contains 100% LEGO parts (excpet BuWizz) with a total of 1178 parts. I am very happy with the result. Here are some pictures The Buwizz with easy acces... Clean interior... Openable glovebox... Rear suspension... Front suspension... The underside shows the chassis, wires and motors... Annd finally a little video to demonstrate the fucntions and the oudoor performance. Building instructions/partslist: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14441/T-Lego/technic-rc-audi-rally-car-with-buwizz-20/#comments Hope you like it, comments, criticism and questions are welcome!
  4. I wanted to build a small rc version of a Jeep Mighty FC for a long time, and finally managed to do so: My main goal was outdoor performance, so I've used a XL motor geared down 1:2.78 for propulsion. A servo motor was used for steering. With only 12 studs between the insides of the wheel hubs, I had to squeeze in portal axles for the front and rear. Of course we also have suspension: The belly-shot: And the video(sorry for bad resolution): The chassis can be separated from the bodywork and battery in about 10sec. Although it was only possible to build in yellow, I tried to include as much detail as possible and did my best to hide most of the interior. I hope you like it. Feel free to leave your comments and criticism!
  5. I am continuing to explore the fascinating world of the pipe transportation with a new prototype. You may already have seen it on youtube, I’m a bit late to post here (busy week-end). If you have a good memory, I did a first prototype on track (here) that had some limitation; in particular it couldn’t transport more than one pipe at once. The complete album is available on FlickR Prototype 2. For this second iteration, I started again form a white sheet to try something new : The transporter is now on tire with multiple axle steering for a good maneuverability and good translation speed (more adapted to road). I choose to keep two cranes for the consistency with the first proto. First advantage this allows making them smaller, as each crane support almost half of the weight of the pipe they don’t need to be reinforced and a mini actuator is enough to make them move. Second advantage is that the pipe remains horizontal even if not loaded exactly on its center of gravity. What’s inside ? There is 6 functions in this truck (5RC + 1 manual). Propulsion on axle 3 and 4. Steering on axle 1-2 and 5-6. The cranes : 1- 360 degrees Rotation. 2- 90 degrees Lift. 3- Cable. The truck was built from the center to the extremity, both crane are a copy-paste and are actuated by the same motors placed in the middle of the truck. Advantage: the crane move simultaneously and are always in the same position, drawback: you can’t use only one crane if you want to (I don’t know why you would have to use only one crane but well.) This was a choice at the conception because the goal of this prototype was to test the concept. With an alternative built it would have been possible to upgrade the truck so each crane have its set of motor , and the simultaneous movement is manage through the software (because yes, SBrick allows you to control several port with one command) Last functions are the additional lateral support that are deployed manually. They were added lattely in the building process (when I tried to install a larger pipe that clashed with the cranes), so I did not had enough room left in the truck to install the pneumatic line. Not a big issue in my opinion, I will do better next time. Good and not compare to the first prototype: Good Can transport more than one pipe Can load/unload up to two pipe in total autonomy No real length limitation Better road capabilities Not good Still requires a manual intervention to catch the pipe Range of operation : Cranes are not long enough to load the additional support. The dual crane are still not independent. Some improvements are still possible. So, project to be continued. Thank you for reading Edit: One additional word: in the video you can see a support vehicle. It is a not-so-good mini forklift only used to load the truck, It has been possible by the use of a 3rd Sbrick (both vehicle controlled through the same interface) and 4 M motors. Dedicated video here (yes I was terribly boring when I did the miniature ):
  6. I' ve made a scale model of this russian all terrain vehicle. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - 4x4 driveshaft with differentials (XL motor) - Steering: brakes that block wheels on one side of the vehicle. (M motor) - Working differential lock (M motor) - Working LEDs - Tires from 42054 - Openable front and rear hatches and windscreen, working wipers Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. The drivetrain with differentials and portal axles: The steering mechanism is, I think, more interesting. Wheels on one side of the vehicle may be blocked using the driving ring. Than differentials transmits all the power to wheels on the other side. (that red connector represents driving ring) And the differential lock. The driving ring connects right and left differential outputs. And photos of side without wheels and the underside: Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  7. I' ve made a model of a Snowmobile. I've tried to make it as detailed as possible. Video: Functions: - Driven tracks (L motor) - Steered skids linked to handlebar with Ackermann geometry and positive caster angle (M motor) - Front double wishbone suspension - Realistic rear suspension Everything is controlled remotely using SBrick. Please watch the video to see this machine in action and for more details. I hope you liked this model.
  8. UPDATE: Instructions & parts list are available at Rebrickable. Three years ago I made this forklift as a an alternative of the 42009 set. Ever since then I wanted to make a proper RC version of it. So here it is. Overall it is a better rendition of a generic heavy forklift. It is narrower, shorter and better scaled than its predecessor. You may criticize me for the lack of slopes and curves, but that's my building style - I always prefer sturdiness over beauty. There are 4 motorized classic functions: Movement (L-motor) Steering (servo) Mast extension (L-motor) Mast tilting (S-motor) Manual functions include sliding blades and openable doors. Here is an extremely short video demonstrating the model at work. Sadly, lack of gradual control over the motor's power makes it hard to move smoothly. So, what is your verdict?
  9. Hello to all. I present you my latest build. SCANIA R series Long Line. This model was build for the local exhibition, which was organized by Kocke Klub in Slowenia. It is build in the scale 1:22 Power Functions: 1 XL motor for Drive 1 Servo motor for steering 3 pairs of LED lights. And the video. Thanx for watching. With best regards, Valter
  10. This was supposed to be a Unimog 401 but things turned out a little different. some specs: Drive: XL motor geared 1:1 Steering: servo motor Openable doors etc It also has rear pendular suspension: And of course a belly-shot: I will make a video as soon as possible to prove its off-road performance. I hope you like it!
  11. Updated: The (almost) final version of the app is ready, app renamed to SBrickPad. For now, you can download the source from my GitHub page: https://github.com/BarakRL/SBrickPad If there will be enough demand I'll make it available for download from the App Store. The app supports MFI and iCade gamepads, on-screen gamepad will be added later this month. More videos coming soon. --- Well it's not done yet but it's getting there. I've added support for both iCade and MFI gamepads and many other features: precision controls (you can even set the easing curve if you want) SBrick connection recovery multiple actions per button event (press/release/value change) so you can control multiple motors with one button or simply play an engine sound while the car is accelerating load/save (and share) action sets import sounds many other things I can't think off right now Do do: Edit actions UI (you can now only edit the json file) On screen virtual gamepad (so it can replace the SBrick app for people without gamepads that still want more control) Make it pretty Documentation etc. The app is still in development, but the source is available to download from my GitHub if you want to play with it already: https://github.com/BarakRL I would love to hear your feedback!
  12. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video :) Hope you will like it!
  13. So this is my latest tank. It is a development of my previous tank, the Blacktron Liberator. The Liberator is very fast and fun to play with, but it also has plenty of shortcomings. With this build I tried to eliminate those shortcomings and at the same time be a little more purist: the only non-LEGO item in this build is a Buwizz brick. However this tank is not controlled by the Buwizz app. Instead I've tested @imurvai's BrickController app with this MOC (see video). And that proved to be a very positive experience. Ever since I've been playing around with Sbricks and Buwizz bricks one thing (well more than one thing to be honest) has bothered me, and that is the lack of any physical feedback. When I am playing with a MOC I am usually looking at it, not at the app on my smartphone. And so it can easily happen that my fingers lose touch with the controls without meaning to. This is totally not an issue when using a gamepad :). The MOC is powered by 2 XL motors for drive and 2 M motors for rotation, elevation and shooting. Functions: - Working torsion-bar suspension - Shooting; - Driving; - Turret rotation; - Gun elevation; Very roomy tank for minifigs :) Of course I've also made a video: Hope you will like it!
  14. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I have been busy with my latest model, the WWII German prototype vehicle E-100. This one being my second rendition of it since 4 years ago, when I started building MOCs. This one is smaller and greatly improved scale accuracy. more information and photos on my blog. http://tommystyrvoky.blogspot.com/2018/02/e-100-super-heavy-tank.html instructions https://www.rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-13061/TommyStyrvoky/rc-e-100-super-heavy-tank/#comments The process of rendering all of the animations for this video took some time, as I rendered all of this on my laptop, the end result, each frame requiring about 5 minutes at only 720p , and well there are a few thousand frames rendered for the animations, and I also completely redid my channel outro with the new PBR shaders from Meccabricks. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr And after all of that time rendering I realized that I forgot to include the second turret hatch... This is probably one of my most accurate vehicles so far, given the constraints of lego, and the mechanical challenges. Though I am still striving to do better in the future. Lego RC E-100 super heavy tank by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr and a comparison with blueprints from the real one. E-100 Blueprint overlay by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  15. Hey! Check out my Lego Boeing 737-600! Working: aileron, rudder, elevator, control column RC: flaps, slats, spoilers, landing gear, thrust reverser Length: 110 cm Wingspan: 125 cm Height: 40 cm Weight: 2,8 kg Video here:
  16. Hello everyone It’s good to have some spare time but better that sitting on the couch is to present one of my last MOCs – Front Loaded Garbage Truck. The truck was made almost three months ago (but I done it from scratch in 8 days!) for our local LUG contest. The goal was to made something up to 2000 pieces and maximum of 4 engines. I thought that front loaded garbage truck could be a nice playable model and I haven’t seen much of them made from Lego. The truck of course fit to rules so it has a four remote functions like: - driving and steering - lifting arms - moving front forks In addition to electric functions there are two pneumatic (with manual pump) – dumping the whole body and opening tailgate. If you want more accurate specification: Weight: 1700g Dimensions: 19 studs wide, 22 studs high, 53 studs long (15.2x17.6x42.4cm) Parts: almost 1900 The truck is designed to emptying big waste bins. Whole process don’t take much time. Lifting functions are motorized so you don’t have to even touch a truck to dump wastes into body. Lifting the arms are operated by L motor connected to two big linear actuators. For moving forks I used a M motor and built a long shaft through arm to connect small LA’s. Each small linear actuator is driven by 6 universal joints. Maybe it don’t sound good but I have to say that everything works fast and fine. First you have to do is drive up to waste bin. Then lift it above body using arms. Meanwhile flap mounted on top of body opens itself and then you roll over waste bin with front forks. When bin is empty simply lower arms and put it onto ground. For driving I used XL motor with total gear reduction 1:1.4 That ratio gives you an opportunity to push truck by hand (and engine will turn). Steering is simply operated by PF Servo. As I said at the beginning there are two pneumatic functions. For opening tailgate I used one small pneumatic cylinder and for lifting body – two big cylinders. Lowering body and tailgate is done by gravity – there is no need to use air pressure. For more playability I made two waste bins – green and red. Maybe this is not a masterpiece but it had to be light. So what say more? I think that movie will say everything that possibly I forgot to write :)
  17. Here's my replica MOC of 42056 set: Porsche 911 GT3 RS in medium scale You can see many references to original set design and the Power Function system. Check the video: The model has: - PF: 2L, Servo, IRv2, LiPo - Full independent suspension - Floating differential at the rear - Opening doors, bonnet, trunk - Adjustable seats. The car is a pleasure to drive: It is quite fast and manoeuvre. Building Instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-12532/paave/porsche-911-gt3-rs/
  18. This Ford GT is the ultimate expression of form following function. Its teardrop- shape body is the result of extensive work in the wind tunnel. Its carbon-fibre body and its 600-plus horsepower 3.5L EcoBoost V6 engine are the ultimate expressions of technological innovation. Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHsm7qSxrk Hello Ford and Technic addicts! Thorsten has completed professional instructions for the Ford GT. It might be time to disassemble your 42056 Porsche Kit and build this orange replica of the 2017 Ford GT! Avail at Rebrickable, check it out! Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-10792/Loxlego/ford-gt Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/gp/139930963@N04/83f95A Video: https://youtu.be/bV8_uOz50oU Ford GT - race car for the road ? by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This supercar packs RWD driven by 2 XL-Motors, Servo for steering, pushrod-actuated torsion bar style suspension front and rear, Sport and track mode suspension, V6 engine, Sbrick plus, Rear spoiler with manual lift, 2 M-motors (1 for each door), button to turn on the car under the hood, easy battery access. Ford GT - From drawing board to reality ? by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Nothing about this build was easy. This car had so many new things that I've have never accomplished before. To start was the framework. I was worried this build would be too heavy for the pushrod suspension. Each wheel has 2 inboard shocks that are positioned in the same fashion as the real Ford GT. Ford GT - door mechanics - filter shot by lachlan cameron, on Flickr I really wanted to have the doors open the same as the real car and this is where difficulty started. Opening those huge, heavy doors was a small feat in itself. The pressure required to pop the door to the final position upwards is immense, so I has to seriously gear down the axle. Ford GT - doors by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The next challenge was the motor placement. Man was it ever hard to fit everything inside a tear drop bodywork! I had to use the middle of the seats for the Sbrick, which may not look too cosmetically appealing, but I can assure you it did completely strengthen the framework immensely. (this may be my sturdiest frame I've made) IMG_0043 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Lastly, I kept the Veneno to race the Ford GT as they have identical gearing. If you watch the video, you'll see who wins. I will work with Thorsten as well for professional instructions in the future. Ford GT back view ? by lachlan cameron, on Flickr A big thanks to @brunojj1 for suggesting to place more studs between the wheels. I tried it this time (2 extra studs) and I feel it looks proper. thanks! Ford GT - white room - filter by lachlan cameron, on Flickr
  19. Once i wanted to make a baja truck, and i failed. though as you should do in life, i stood up and tried again. and suddenly, i had a frame. and a 'little' later i had a baja truck. fuctions: Full suspension: Front; double wishbone (travel: 1.5 studs) Rear: live axle (travel: 5 studs) RTC steering (Servo motor) RWD (XL-motor) Full RC I started making a front suspension which had to be soft and a good height clearance and RTC stearing. After a while i had a very sturdy stearing module, so i started making the rear axle.The XL motor is mounted on the live axle. it has a 1.66:1 which gives it a speed of 243.4 RPM and 8.7 N.cm. of torque. I used the short steering link to make the suspension freëer then used the 3X5 L links to connect to the springs. The battery is pretty high above the center of mass, but it doesn't affect the performance weardly. the IR receiver is possitioned just under the widnshield which makes it pretty easy to reach. The body is made out of 3 pieces, The bumper, a nose scoop and the rest of the body. the body is connected in 14 points to the chassis, the scoop only at 2 and the bumper in 6 places. I might do instructions on the chassis, but i don't know if i will on the body (only if enough demand). Greetz TNLD more pictures:https://flic.kr/s/aHskvfPA6Y LXF file of the chassis: http://www.mediafire.com/file/2w3uet74f11bamk/Baja_Truck.lxf
  20. Ce set est fait pour etre en RC ! pour le LXF : part 22921 = part 27940 ! - 1 moteur L - 1 servomoteur - 1 batterie AAA - 1 récepteur infrarouge
  21. The 2017 Ford GT is effectively a GTE race car converted to road use. After the 2016 race car won at Le Mans, exactly 50 years after Ford's historic win with the GT40, they had to build some road cars for homologation purposes. These road cars have a 3.5-litre twin-turbo Ecoboost V6 producing 647 horsepower, and an extreme amount of downforce from the active rear wing, diffusers, front splitter and those gigantic flying buttresses on the sides. The interior is sparse to reduce weight. The initial allocation sold for around $500,000 each, and Ford received more than 5,000 applications for 500 cars. Getting hold of a car is extremely difficult, and even those who are successful must wait for several years to receive their car. The recent incident of Ford announcing that they would sue John Cena for selling his car (supposedly for profit) and breaking the terms of the contract is a testament to how sought-after this car is. After several months of rather intermittent building, I've finally finished what turned out to be a prime example of how not to manage a project. Anyhow, at least the car is finished so I can get to work on building something I'll hopefully enjoy more... Initially, I planned for this to be a fast RC vehicle, using every single motor that I own. That meant three EV3 Large motors, a PF XL and a PF L for drive, an EV3 Medium for the gearbox and a PF M for the steering. However, as I chased the GT's distinctive styling, the car got heavier, more fragile and closer to the ground. In the end, the car would barely move in anything other than 1st gear, and it would scrape its bodywork on the ground. That's what happens when you change tack mid-way though a build. However, at least I think I can call this my best-looking car model to date. The car has a 4-speed sequential gearbox mounted behind the rear axle to save space and take advantage of the car's huge overhangs. There is no suspension to reduce complexity and because the model is a little too narrow for an independent driven axle to fit. All the motors in the drivetrain are hard-coupled together (yes, I know it's a little naughty, but the gear ratios are closely matched and the stresses put on them by this are probably dwarfed by the load caused by driving the car uphill). The steered axle is extremely simple with just a little return-to-center mechanism. This is in order to leave enough space for the PF battery box under the bonnet. There was just about enough room to have a convincing-looking cabin and seats, although it is considerably smaller (compared to the size of the whole car) than in real life. The rear wing is mounted on a scissor lift system to raise or lower it - there wasn't much space over the gearbox so I had to resort to using those ugly yellow beams. The doors are hinged about the A-pillars in order to give that characteristic motion, opening both upwards and outwards. An elastic band puts some tension on the mechanism and keeps the door either in the closed or in the open position. Styling-wise, the Ford GT is quite a challenging car, but at least it is more angular than curved. I did my best to focus on the characteristic features: the two big vents on the bonnet, the giant side vents and flying buttresses, the red circular brake lights and the carbon sill running along the length of the sides, part of which lifts up with the doors. I don't have that many pieces, so I had to do a few colour-mismatches, but I tried to keep to the grey theme. In the end, the car is easily-recogniseable as a GT, and that's what counts to me. Here is a video showing pictures of the car and a time-lapse of building. Unfortunately there's no driving footage (it would be pretty underwhelming anyway), but you can see the opening of the doors and raising of the rear wing. Music is composed by me as usual. My next build will be what this one failed to be: an incredibly fast RC car. This time, I'm going for minimal bodywork and no gearbox.
  22. I've been a bit inactive on Eurobricks the past couple of weeks (partly due to making instructions for @Aventador2004's excavator, and making a MOC for a competition), so I thought I'd share a little tank I made to test the gamepad support that was recently added to the SBrick app: (which by the way, is awesome!) I used a 3rd-party Lipo battery to power the SBrick, which was placed between the two L-motors, and connected to the SBrick via a custom adapter cable: (the red thing in the photo below is part of it) It's quite a fun little thing to drive, and is nice and quick too: Some more photos:
  23. Hey guys... while disassembling my newest purchase 8366 RC Supersonic Racer, i was pretty much surprised, when i looked at the serial numbers of the rc-parts. As you can see in the following images, there is the same number on ALL 4 electronical parts (each motor, the RC-unit and the remote). RC-unit motor 1+ motor 2 remote At my first 8366-set there was a different number on each part, as you can see in the following images: rc unit motor 1 motor 2 remote Does this mean, that my first model was put together from different sets? Or did they simply mix the parts at a special date of the production? Also i see a 5-digit serial number on one of my additionally bought motors, wich also includes a letter and not just numbers. Another special thing about this motor is the motorcover on the side, as you can see in the following pictures. I guess the 5-digit one is the newest, maybe out of a 8287 Motorbox-set, or a 8421 Mobile Crane-set? seperatly bought motor serial number 225K8 serial number 6292, 3282, 1263, 5383 Does anyone have more detailled information about all this?
  24. I felt like it was time to step up my game and start modeling more popular, more difficult Hypercars. I was able to create a suspension strong enough not to need torsion bar, for all you purists out there Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHskZHoj1H The Lego car blog: https://thelegocarblog.com/2017/05/15/money-monday/ Photo Instructions: https://goo.gl/photos/TYFAPW11jpkdA2dTA The Chiron has curves & shapes difficult to replicate. This build began with the simplistic, strong and extremely reliable Framework. Features: custom W16 motor (designed by @DugaldIC), front and rear lights, 2wd - 4wd shifter, Steering with the Servo, 2 XL Motors for drive, 1 M motor for rear wing, Sbrick, LIPO battery, button to turn on the battery & independent suspension. The idea was to create a purely cosmetic build, and create the whole car as close to scale as possible. As this car has a fairly short front and rear end, the batteries and motors had to be between the wheels. The Servo for steering was tucked as low as possible in front of the of the wheels not to interfere with the hood / wheel wells. Bugatti Chiron - Rear end by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The framework is low as possible, 1 stud off the ground, 2 studs above the front wheels. This was a nightmare to allow the wheels to turn without rubbing on the inside. There are 10 lights on this car, the most I have ever added to my builds! I've got to give huge props to Dugald for the engine, and Sheepo for the car jack in the video Two builds, two bros - Bugatti Chiron & Aston Martin Vantage GT3 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Two Bro's, two supercars
  25. «Mad Max for kids». I’d like to present a truck, named ‘Beast’, from the old Australian TV series ‘Thunderstone’ - XL for drive - Servo for steering - LED to lighten the cube + PF switch - LiPo for power - IR-receiver for remote control - Opening doors, trailer roof - Turning radar That's how the original one looks: