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Found 886 results

  1. Please comment, request and discuss about LDD new parts here Now this topic is intended as a support area for the LDD New Parts thread Ok, let's do this. Inspired by @M2m thread I've started wrting a 3D Studio Max script that allows importing, editing and exporting LDD brick geometry and their XML data. They are rough, some geometry data is unknown (this doesn't have any visible or noticable impact so far) but it works and here's the result (click for bigger pictures): Fixed connectivity issue of 90 deg tube (pretty popular piece for 2018/2019 technic sets): Custom 3x5x2 panel that I saw in one of the Chinese custom (not copied from Lego) models: I was curious how my MOC would look like with more realistic, narrow tires so I shrinked Unimog tire to fit on 42029 rim. Dimensions: 81,6 x 30: For the tractor enthusiasts - how could a Class tire look like on an Arcos rim - also that Chinese model. Dimensions: 64,2 x 20 (I've made is slighty bigger than original tire): Moved some parts around and fixed default orientation of some of technic panels:
  2. Me again - exercising some more SciFi TV show nerdism. As I was wrapping up the Schwarzkopf, I found an awesome LDD MOC on Flickr by CK-MCMLXXXI (don't know if they're on Eurobricks), and decided to try to reverse-engineer it, similar to how I ended up building Agamemnon - except in this case I only had 3 pics (4 angles) to go from, and no clues to go by for the internals. The designer wasn't sharing the LDD files (which is totally fair - I won't share mine for this either to stay true to that) but I said I'd love to build it, and they challenged me to do so... Challenge accepted! I managed to make something pretty close to their original but had to make some changes as I couldn't make all the bodywork angles match the original design perfectly. Some of the angles for the head were a nightmare to figure out - I had to do an ugly colourbarf mock-up IRL to test whether it was even possible or not! But yep, all the connections are legal in LDD this time - and I think there's enough clutch-power and structure in the 6 supports to hold up the sidepods IRL. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out - Bluerender did a great job for the shots below, after I did some lighting experimentation. It's 3455 bricks, but I'm not sure they're all available in all the colours - haven't checked that yet... LxWxH it's 65x35x14 studs/bricks, or 522x280x136mm, according to MLCad. I'd add some stickers to it if I was actually building it IRL, but I currently have no plans to do so (the wife thinks it looks too "stubby" )... More pics including some LDD WIP screenshots are available in my Flickr album, and here's a 360 render as a bonus: Hope the other BSG series fans out there like it! ;) I guess now I've done "The Beast" I should try the Galactica and/or a Cylon Basestar someday... if I could do them in the same scale that'd be pretty sweet, but that may be a stretch-goal too far!
  3. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows 32 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Windows 64 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) This file is also used and distributed with these tools: lxf2ldr C++/Qt version (both CLI and GUI), more options but needs to be compiled lxf2ldr.html HTML/JS version, works everywhere! If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  4. To keep this topic clean of comments, please request and discuss HERE All the undesired posts will be moved in the aforementioned related thread It has been a long time since Lego Digital Designer (LDD) has been updated with new parts. For a long time the exact format of the code from the LDD parts was not exactly understood. Now, a few members of the Eurobricks community cracked the code and are able to create parts in the format LDD uses. This post shall list these new parts and contains a link to a zip/rar file with those new parts. Rules Off course we would all like to have as many new parts as soon as possible. That doesn't necessarily guarantee the highest quality standard. Therefor we have compiled some rules. Only parts that adhere to these rules will be added to the parts pack(s). Parts may only come from open sources. That means that LDraw parts are allowed, but that Mecabricks parts are strictly forbidden; A part must always have connectivity and boundary boxes; A part may include collision boxes but this is not necessary for approval. Reaching the LDD part database First things first. How to access the current parts of LDD? We need to know that before we can add new parts. Windows Download LDD LIF Extractor for 32- or 64-bit systems. The LIF file contains the LDD parts. The LIF Extractor can be found here: LINK; Unzip the LIF Extractor zip file; Navigate to: Users/[UserName]/AppData/Roaming/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer. The "AppData" folder could be hidden; if so: activate "Show hidden files"; Here you'll find a file named "db.lif". Drag that file onto LIFExtractor.exe (it doesn't matter where LIFExtractor.exe is located: downloads folder, desktop or anywhere else, just drag db.lif onto the exe file); You'll now find a folder named "db" and one named "Palettes". Rename the original "db.lif" into something else (i.e. "xxdb.lif"), this is your parts back-up file! You'll find the following in the "db" folder: Folders "Assemblies": This folder contains the *.lxfml files for the assemblies. "Decorations": This folder contains all decorations. "MainGroupDividers": This folder contains the images of the part groups. " MaterialNames": This folder contains English and German names for the included color. Advise: do not open this file in a normal text editor, it will mess up the file, making is unusable! "Primitives": This folder contains the technical data for the parts. Navigate further to "LOD0", this folder contains the 3D models for the parts. Loose files "CurrentMaterials": This file list all current colors that are in LDD. "DecorationMapping": This file contains which decoration belongs to which parts. "info": Regular info about LDD. "Materials": This file contains all color RGB values. "pes": This file says something about friction which might have something to do with the old exploding animation. You'll find the following in the "Palettes" folder: Multiple *.lif files. Extract LDD.lif and LDDExtended.lif in the same way you extracted the db.lif file. Now you have two folders: LDD and LDDExtended. These folders contain *.paxml files: text files which create ready-to-use multi-colored part palettes. Here you add the 2020NewPreColoredParts folder. This gives you access to all new pre-colored multi-colored and printed new parts. iOS/Mac Download LIF-Extractor from JrMasterModelBuilder. It can be found here: LINK. Go to folder: /Users/myusername/Library/Application\ Support/LEGO\ Company/LEGO\ Digital\ Designer/ Extract the db.lif using JrMasterModelBuilder's LIF-Extractor.py Python script by using Terminal: python LIFExtractor.py /Users/myusername/Library/Application\ Support/LEGO\ Company/LEGO\ Digital\ Designer/\db.lif This will create a "db" subfolder containing the extracted contents of the db.lif file. Rename "db.lif" into something else (i.e. "xxdb.lif"), this is your parts back-up file! Enter the folder, go to "Primitives". This folder contains the technical data for the parts. Navigate further to "LOD0", this folder contains the 3D models for the parts. For information about the folder structure, see "Windows" above. Accessing the new parts Now for the real exciting part: adding parts to LDD. Lego Digital Designer should be closed for this. Download the update parts pack (*.rar file) to the location of the "db" folder from the latest post below; Unpack the folder; If asked if you want to replace files, click "Yes to all". Now you will have the latest parts and the newest part geometries.
  5. A little something I threw together to make my life easier when creating custom LEGO decorations for LEGO Digital Designer. These are color swatch sets for Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop, featuring all current brick colors (according to BrickLink), with black and white color corrected to match LDD's black and white. The Illustrator set is organized by catagory, and since the Photoshop swatch system doesn't allow for this, each catagory is its own set. Even though these are brick colors and not decoration colors, it seems to me that most decorations tend not to stray very far from this palette. Download Illustrator Swatches To install the Illustrator swatches, download the file and place it in "C:\Users\[YOUR NAME]\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Adobe Illustrator [VERSION NUMBER] Settings\en_US\x64\Swatches". Once in Illustrator, open the Swatches window, and from the dropdown in the corner of the window choose "Open Swatch Library>User Defined>Lego Colors". Download Photoshop Swatches To install the Photoshop swatches, unzip the file and drop the *.ago files into "C:\Users\[YOUR NAME]\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\Adobe Photoshop [VERSION NUMBER]\Presets\Color Swatches". Then go to the dropdown menu in the corner of the Swatches pane and select "Replace Swatches", and pick the one you want.
  6. Hey everyone, today I bring you my take on a minifig scale LAAT/i or Republic Gunship. Firstly, this thing is complicated... I started working on this early last year, but took a break from it because trying to figure out how to translate the complex shape of this thing was driving my crazy. While there are a lot of really nice gunships out there, I really wanted to see if I could match the narrow profile of the front of the ship, as well as get the flare out to the back that it has. Needless to say, accomplishing that in Lego is not easy, but I think I came up with a decent solution. The entire upper part of the gunship actually tapers from 6 studs wide in the back, down to 4 in the front. The "floor" of the gunship also tapers, which is one of the most common things people seem to avoid in other MOCs, probably because it's a major pain to do and it messes with the door alignment. The doors utilize technic fig hands and mixel joints to achieve the sloping from the front to back of the gunship. The doors were a real challenge due to the angles, and my first go at it didn't have enough head room to allow for a fig to stand inside, so I had to take another go at it, but this version seems to hold up. As usual a pic with my Delta-7B for scale. And some other colour variants. I've also done some test building to make sure that this thing actually works, I was worried that with all the angles it would be extremely brittle, but it holds together better then I thought it would. Inspiration notes: Under wing supports as well as some frontal structure inspired by Caleb Ricks. Front nose roundness inspired by Maelven. Engine build inspired by Chef Aslopert. Engine cones inspired by Kit Bricksto. Flood/Search lights inspired by David Buchholz.
  7. I've been staring at Hogsmeade Village Visit (set 76388) for a while now (ever since pictures leaked!), trying to figure out how to fit it into my vintage city... I think I may have figured out how to do so now with the added rear halves and removed Winter snow parts. This model's front half was originally from the Honeydukes sweet shop portion of Hogsmeade Village Visit. I added a look-alike back to it, changed the color to red, and turned it into a small post office with inside details on both floors. I also added a truck I built in real life way back in 2011 - modeled after the official Winter Village Post Office truck from set 10222 - which is now back to being used for a postal truck. (I have determined said truck is styled like a Ford Model AA (wiki link) just based on the front end alone.) Yes, the model is missing nine parts not in LDD. This includes four each of parts 48208 and 48205, and one of 35563, all in black for the roof. Inside features are as such: - Ground floor has the public area, with pay counter and several boxes / crates waiting to be shipped. - Upstairs (even though there is no stairs!) is the sorting area with plenty of mail being gone through to be delivered to it's destination. Everyone may have heard of the Ford Model T and maybe it's successor, the Model A. But here is something you may not know: The Model T and later Model A both had trucks made from the basic principles of those cars. They were called the Model TT & Model AA, which is where this Lego model comes in, as it's based off a Ford Model AA truck. (or at least that's what I think it it is - the model was originally from set 10222, Winter Village Post Office.) The rear of the truck has two tail-lights and a license plate. MODEL NOTES: The building can only open 90 degrees due to interference from the roof and building footprint. (The post office will be built shortly after the Polar Express house, and then the heavily-modified 76388 tavern early next year.) Thoughts?
  8. Xon67

    Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: "I wanna go home!" LEGO Movie 2 logo The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-07-20.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Train bridge Monorail stop .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/_movie_train_stop_stairs_alt3.lxf Downtown plaza Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_coffee_chain.lxf Downtown Bricksburg and the Kragle antidote. Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Construction Site Update: Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Emmet's mech Emmet's mech compared to the official set Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Octan reception: Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan offices. Octan Control Room. Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room Lord Business' ThinkTank Octan flying cube. The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture A surprise Christmas tree for Bad Cop Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees End Title Concept End credits: Movie Theater End credits: WyldStyle's tag End credits: Music End credits: Movie premiere End credits: Kragle End credits: Taco Tuesday End credits: Consessions End credits: Secret Police End credits: Sound stage End credits: Construction End credits: Warehouse More on the way!
  9. Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. Well, it may be a long time before I get a chance at building this model for real, but I have completed the digital design! If anyone is interested, an LDD file is available from my bricksafe page: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/NathanR/real-space/apollo-lut Original first post: Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. I'm clearly not the only one because a similar model recently reached 10k votes on Lego Ideas - however, I'm impatient and so I decided to start building my own. I've been working in LDD due to a lack of physical bricks, and the first (very rough) sketch model is complete: The Saturn V rocket was launched from the Mobile Launch Platform (MLP, nothing to do with ponies...), a two story structure on which the rocket was constructed and fuelled. It measured 169x135 feet, or 56x46 studs at 1:110 scale, and also carried a 380 ft tall launch umbilical tower (LUT). The tower featured nine arms that provided electricity and other services to various parts of the rocket, and swung away just a fraction of a second before it blasted off. The rocket did not stand on the engine nozzles, but was instead suspended over a single exhaust vent measuring 45x45 feet. This should be 15x15 studs but I've gone with 14x14 studs for ease of building: I'm particularly proud of the design of the hold down arms: These four clamps held the rocket down until all five engines were confirmed to be running at full power, at which point they retracted behind heat-proof shields and allowed the Saturn V to soar skywards. Three additional holddown arms were located around the pad and have yet to be modelled. I'll add details once I have the core structure sorted. The base of the MLP uses 1x4x6 door frames like the version that was on Lego Ideas - an inspired choice which I've temporarily copied here (I'm actively trying to avoid looking at the Ideas model so I don't copy it), but I'm toying with 1x1x5 bricks to represent the support columns instead. I could really use some help and advice with this model though. How do I make it structurally sound? The MLP is a glorified box with a hole in it, but I've never built anything this big before and I'm not sure how to link together the baseplates. I had a few ideas for some internal supports: Do you think these would be strong enough? Should the outer wall be thicker? Should I criss-cross the entire hollow space with brick beams? How do I strike a good balance between strength and low parts count? You can view larger pictures and find the LDD file on bricksafe. If there's interest I'll make instructions available when the model is complete. Any advice or constructive feedback would be much appreciated!!
  10. So I've been working on this on and off for the past 7 years. I wanted to have the Eta-2's to go along with my Delta-7B's. Initially my design was heavily based on Gunner's, which I had seen on this forum. The size was very close to minifig scale, and it served as a good starting point. However I ended up unsatisfied with my result. Four years later after having worked on my Ghost, I took another stab at it and started to make a bit more headway. I focused more and more on correcting my shaping and overall design. By the end of last year I had finalized a design that I was pretty happy with, the only drawback being the lack of 29119 & 29120 in yellow. Thankfully they came out with the introduction of the 76897 Audi. Earlier this month I took another look at my design, and while I did still like it, I felt it could use some final tweaks. And by simply changing the mandibles I found a new love for the design of this ship. So much so that I went ahead and updated my version for Ahsoka, and did up all the other versions from the movies. So here we go; My design progress. Anakin's Eta-2 from the Clone Wars, with s-foils open and closed. Some additional views. The cockpit interior and under the s-foils (showing the hole through the wing). The usual size comparison to my Delta-7B. Ahsoka's Eta-2 from the Clone Wars, with s-foils open and closed. Some additional views. And now the designs seen in Revenge of the Sith. Anakin's Yellow Eta-2. With a comparison to the new 2020 75281 Anakin's Jedi Interceptor. Anakin's Green Eta-2. Obi Wan's Red Eta-2. And finally Obi Wan's Blue Eta-2. As a final note, all of these are buildable except for Anakin's green Eta-2 (There are several pieces unavailable in Dark Green and some in Dark Bluish Grey). I have Ahsoka's test built in mostly the correct colours, I've placed a Bricklink order to get the pieces I need to finish both hers and Anakin's CW Eta-2. Once I have them completed I'll take some photos and add them here. As always, enjoy.
  11. I've been working on this build since '7680 The Twilight' set came out in 2008. It started out as just modding the set to give it some interior, and slowly evolved with the continuous advances to LDD. Building this was the driving force behind designing my minifig scaled Delta-7, because I wanted to ensure that it would fit inside like in the show. I've gone through countless revisions to my design, even as far as starting from scratch at least 3 times. With every redesign came more research and I learned more and more about the design of this ship. I learned about a lot of things that never made it into the show. Things like that this ship actually has 3 levels to it, and that it uses an elevator to get between them. That they used 2 distinct 3D models of the ship and would switch between them during episodes, etc. It has been a long journey, but I'm finally happy enough with my design to share it. So into the details; Currently the ship sits at a total of 11,259pcs, measuring in at 102 studs (81.6cm) long by 132 studs (105.6cm) wide, by 37 studs (29.6cm) height (landed) or 84 studs (67.2cm) height (both outriggers extended). In other words, this thing is pretty big, still not as big as the Ghost, but it is the same length as the UCS Millenium Falcon. While I did find images and video of the majority of the interior I sacrificed a few of the unseen rooms in lieu of having more structure to hold the whole thing together. I did however keep all of the main areas, this includes the cockpit, cargo hold, connecting hallway and the boarding area. Comparing my build to the official Lego set. Here is a comparison between my Twilight, the UCS Millenium Falcon and my Ghost. As well as some comparisons with some of the official images that used to be on StarWars.com, I couldn't get the angles exactly right, but they're close enough to compare. And as a final note, I am currently in the process of building this monster, I have been slowly gathering pieces for the last few years, I have about 80% of the total pieces required, though I'm sure I'll have to make some modifications as I go. I will be posting updates as I go, but for now, here are my bins of parts, please forgive the unsorted disaster that they are currently in.
  12. manglegrat

    [LDD-MOC] Battlestar Galactica

    After finishing up the in-the-brick Pegasus, I finally dusted off (virtually) the LDD design I had started on for a version of the Galactica scaled to it. All 100% my own work, this time! I originally designed the sidepods (based on the top half of the Pegasus ones) pretty quickly, but then got so hung-up on the curves and ribs for the engines that I got stuck in a rut and gave up on it. When I came back to it I started at the front and worked my way back. When I got to the engines I used some of the artistic license I had learned to apply to do the missing plating/ribs, and that allowed me to push through to the end result below. She currently weighs-in at a svelte-for-her-age 3087 bricks, and according to LDCad she's 65L x 11H x 25W in bricks (not technically long enough to be a real SHIP, but hey) or ~51cm long by 10cm high by 20cm wide. Pegasus is 54cm long x 13cm high x 26cm wide - and generally a lot bulkier - in comparison. I've still to design a stand, or sticker sheet (need some for the engine nozzles for sure - can't texture them out fully with Lego at this scale), but those can come as I gather the bricks. May need to build this one before I get to the @mortesv Nebulon... So here she is - the grand old lady herself: The pods slide in and out on rails, and kinda recess into the bodywork (as much as I could with Lego, anyway). They're a real PITA to move around in LDD... And here's a view of the underside and engines (the 4 technic 32530 pieces in the middle are placeholders for connecting the stand) with the pods retracted to show how they integrate with the main body: There's another underside shot (front perspective) plus my reference image in my Flickr album. I may go & fire up my old Mac to do a 360 render now... Any feedback, comments or suggestions are welcome!
  13. I've editing in a glow effect in Photoshop up until now, which works alright, but I'm not really satisfied with it. Selecting individual parts with the lasso tool is kind of a pain in the megablocks. I don't actually know anything about POVRay beyond what LDD to POV-Ray Converter lets me do, but I imagine maybe I could do something by mucking about with the "materials". That's a thing, right?
  14. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. 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Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Write an Error List, reporting if the model is complete or some element is missing or replaced (by a similar part, a brick assembly or any custom solution). Use part IDs to identify the bricks. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] If the set has been built by another user, contact him and ask him to update his entry. Provide some help, if you find a way to solve some issue. 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Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Models containing custom parts are allowed ad extra only. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each set, simple screenshots, PNG with Alpha channel, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop (zero-pixles margins), not scattered, no flat view. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  15. Hi, folks. During last SHIPtember, Ryan Olsen created a SHIP based on Babylon 5 - the EAS Agamemnon. I stumbled across it at the time thanks to some Lego blogs, and at the end of the year decided to build one for myself. Credit for the original Lego design goes to Ryan, of course! I took his WIP pics (here) and final pics (here - awesome photography & Photoshopping!) and reverse-engineered it in LDD to understand how it all held together and what parts were required. Then I used Rebrickable to figure out what parts I needed. To build it, I used the "hide" tool in LDD - hide bricks in reverse order, then undo to play back the build as you follow along. Much more helpful than the absurd LDD-generated instructions... Here's the end result (Flickr album here) - my pics & lighting are not studio-quality, unlike Ryan's! The middle section rotates (manually) and stays put at any angle, so it's well balanced and the turntables provide enough friction to keep it stable. Stats-wise, it's about 95cm (~117 studs) long, 35cm tall and 15cm wide, using ~4700 bricks, weighing-in at just over 3.7kg (8.2lb). I made some guesses as to internal structure (e.g. the turntable connections in the rotating section) and the greebles on top & bottom are my own, but it's very close to Ryan's original design and some reference images of the original. Ryan was kind enough to share the image files he used for the stickers, so I was able to complete the model. I couldn't connect the front & rear side plating in LDD - as I learned here, the connections are just illegal as there's not enough clearance between the side plates and overhanging top & bottom plates in software - however, it obviously works in the brick. I converted the LDD to an LDraw file (using SylvainLS's updated parts mapper here) and used LDCad (which can ignore collisions) to place the plates in order to use POV-Ray to make the renders you can see in my album. I learned a lot doing that! Note that I made some tweaks in-the-brick but haven't re-done the LDraw file or any renders to reconcile the minor differences. It was a fun, frustrating at times, but very rewarding journey, and I'm really happy how it turned out. The SHIP looks awesome on display in my living room. Thanks for the inspiration, Ryan, and thanks to those on this site who helped with the digital stuff! Here's a 360 degree render: https://photos.app.goo.gl/caouE0BlHzarD6C42
  16. For Download an INSTRUCTIONS see this POST stifos - Millennium Falcon - Brickbuilt by sti fos, auf Flickr stifos - Millennium Falcon - overview side by sti fos, auf Flickr download model on page 2 Hey there! finally I am able to share my first Lego MOC. Which started as modding the original 7965 Set ended up a with a little more changes than expected. first of All big credits to Kit Bricksto (did the Falcon ever finish?) , Inthert (Systemscale and interior), Joerg Kuehni (Mandibles), Fenk512(docking rings) which inspired me most and many of their details ended up in this Falcon. I also love to see what people do in the great UCS Millennium Falcon Mod Topic. Well, the reasons for choosing the Falcon in systemscale are quite simple: Not enough Money for the UCS; Not even enough Space in my flat for the size of the UCS and I wanted to fit the Falcon to the other Lego sets I own from back in the days. So I try to stick with the original size. I know there are proportions that don’t really fit, e.g. the size of the window at the gun turrets or the size of the access bays of the mandibles… But in the end I wanted to get the most iconic details into this one so this is how i dealt with it. I also began with the interior which i will upload later.
  17. Belisarius is a pirate boat that after a lot of journeys and adventures, in one of its trips and in its final quest for a long-lost treasure that was located in the abyss, it met a magical sea dragon. The dragon was the guard of the abyss that did not allow bad spirits to rise the surface. After a battle between the dragon and the ship not only was the dragon beaten but also it became the ship’s skeleton. All the sailors were transformed as well into it’s skeleton which also became part of the ship. So now, the ship took the role of the guard and protector until someone else had to win and take with its turn that role. The set includes florescent pieces so when you switch off the light you can see the skeleton, the mystique of the dragon and the darkness vanishes the black bricks of the ship which looks like its flying in the air. More Photos: (Submission has expired) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/d41fa54f-132a-4e85-8264-908b8133be97
  18. Hey everyone, hope everyone has been doing well. I've been busy working away at expanding my minifig scale MOC collection (Still only digitally atm). And thought I'd bring you something that I haven't really seen around anywhere. A minifig scale Hyena-class Bomber. This one was pretty tricky, but I think it came together rather well in the end. The official LEGO Hyena bomber was alright, but left a lot to be desired. The overall shaping of the ship was kind of off and the walking mode looked nothing like the source material. My goal was to get mine as close as I could and keep it in line with my other minifig scale builds. This was a little harder than I had anticipated, and I had to make one sacrifice right off the bat. There was no way that I could get the legs to physically retract the way they do on the actual ship, even more so at this scale. So unfortunately there is a small bit of "parts-forming" required between modes, but I made it as little as possible. I was able to get the wing mounts to extend out of the main body to allow upper leg movement though. The other thing that always made the model look wrong was using the head build method established by LEGO. While the stickers used to make up the "face" look nice, the overall head shape is left extremely flat. It took a week or so of playing with parts, but I was finally able to come up with a brick-built head design I was happy with. While it may not be perfect, for the most part has the general shaping of the actual Hyena bomber. I then utilized variations of the technique to build the other head-like shapes on the ship, including the targeting head below. I've also included a couple photos with some of my other MOCs for size comparison. Prior to working on the Hyena bomber, I had built a minifig scale Vulture droid, but was unhappy with the stock LEGO style head. However after figuring out the head for the Hyena bomber it wasn't too hard to down-scale to get a suitable head for it too. So since they are fairly similar I'm including the pictures of it here as well. Both ships were designed to use The Clone Wars colour schemes, although it could be debated that they Hyena should be sand blue rather than DBG, but given that practically none of the pieces come in that colour, there wasn't much choice. There are scenes from the show where it does look more grey that blue anyways. As always, hope you enjoy! I'll be back soon with my minifig scale ATT and DDT.
  19. This ship was designed to replace my original micro scale ocean liner from 2011. It's not intended to represent any real liner per say, though I was inspired a tiny bit by the Queen Mary (located out in Long Beach, CA) and a lot inspired by the Olympic / Titanic / Britannic sister-ships that were sadly scrapped / sunk by iceberg / mined in WW1. Here we see the RMS Allemann at sail at night in the mid-Atlantic sometime in the late 1920's. (this LDD picture was edited to give it a night-time feel. If only the portholes glowed!) The font of the ship (also called the "bow".) features three printed 1 x 6 tiles should spell out the name ALLEMANN on the left and right sides, and along with the stern. The light gray "hatches" at the fore and aft sections of the ship are for loading cargo into the various holds. Statistics: Ship Name: RMS Allemann Ship Type: "Gigantic" Class passenger Liner Owner: Red Star Line Ship Built: 1919 – 1921 Capacity: 400 Crew, 270 First class, 630 Second class, 1,000 Third class Lifeboats: 20 regular boats / 4 collapsible boats with 80 people per boat each (1,920 people total capacity) Builder: Strong & Steele Shipbuilders of London Propulsion: 24 Boilers, 2 turbines, 4 steel propellers Top Speed: 30 Knots Fuel: Diesel (originally Oil) The rear of the ship. (also called the "stern".) The raised portion of the deck is for the docking bridge when the ship is backing into port. The ship features a modular approach to it's construction, allowing for separation of bow and stern for storage ease... and in case I want to build a wrecked version in the future, I just disconnect the four Technic pins to remove the desired section from the rest of the vessel. Also, I thought about Gateway LUG holiday displays, which usually include light-up models in some form, usually modular buildings. These potential lights are now addable via the open bottom of the ship for a neat effect through the portholes. The pennant flag of the Red Star Line as originally used on the RMS Allemann. The RMS Allemann was first proposed in 1914, but World War One prevented it's construction by Strong & Steele Shipbuilders to start until 1919. The ship was modified from it's original proposed engine design to burn oil, and was completed in February 1921. The ship could hold 1,900 people total, with 400 being Crew, with 270 being First class, 630 in Second class, and 1,000 being the steerage, or Third class. The ship sailed it's maiden voyage in July 1921 from Southampton to New York City. The ship was English-owned, and as such, was immune to the new American anti-alcohol laws of Prohibition. The ship took off-peak season sailings (informally known as Liquor Cruises) around the Atlantic, returning to the American port of origin within a couple days. The ship managed to hold a steady service record, and remained relatively full-up until the Great Depression really took hold in 1931. The ship's owners, the Red Star Line, managed to stay financially afloat long enough to get the ship through the worst of the Depression, until the ship was requested by the English Navy as a troop ship in late 1939 for use in World War Two. The Allemann's fancy woodwork was put in storage and the ship was turned into a troop ship relatively quickly. The ship was strafed several times by enemy aircraft during the war, and narrowly missed being torpedoed in 1943, but it survived the war not too much worse for wear. When it was handed back over to Red Star Line, it was given a complete overhaul mechanically and electrically. The whole ship was rewired, and the oil burning engines converted to diesel. The Acadia's woodwork was painstakingly restored to it's original grandeur, and she was ready for for sailing by 1948, almost a year after being handed back to it's original owners. In the early '50's the ship began sailing luxury cruises to the Mediterranean from England and the United States, in addition to it's usual scheduled Atlantic crossings, and had it's third class re-designated as Tourist class. This was because the decline of the Atlantic immigrant traffic pattern was nearly complete. The ship began showing it's age by the late 1960's, when it's original glass dome began to leak badly. A handful of cracks in the reinforced glass caused the ship to be dry-docked, but before it could be fixed the huge dome collapsed in on itself, causing the grand staircase to be heavily damaged. Luckily, the accident happened in the middle of the night, and no one was on board at the time to get hurt by all that broken glass. The ships' dome was replaced, but only because the ship's owners knew of the ship's heritage and couldn't bear to see the old girl scrapped. (Not to mention it would have cost more to scrap the ship than fix the dome) By 1975, she was last four-stack ship in existence, and the owners were planning the grand lady's 55th Birthday for the next year. The Allemann celebrated July 1st, 1976 as her fifty-fifth birthday, and as part of the celebrations she was given to a preservation group dedicated to keeping the ship sailing as an "ambassador of history", as a peek into the way things were and how the men and women visiting and working on the Allemann went about their lives through each period of this ships stoic history. Many former passengers and crew detailed their experiences on the ship in writing or on film for the beginning of what later became known as The Allemann Living History Museum. Today, the ship features a feature-length film that chronicles the story of the ship and it's many passengers and crew through out the ships commercial and wartime lives. The film is shown in the Second Class movie theater, built into the ship in 1947 after World War Two, flowing seamlessly into the 1920's flavor of the ship. The ship still sails, making stops in New York and London (substituted for Southampton) at least twice a year. NOTES: The bow is either a bit too long or the stern too short, but I can't seem to fix that correctly to be "in scale". In fact, it's pretty much assured there is NO scale used with this ship, as I just built what looked good to me. The model will have to be bought sometime in Autumn of this year, as even though it has most of the parts from the 2011 ship inside it, (these have been removed the from the parts list to save money) it still will cost almost (US) $200 to purchase the remaining needed parts to have it done by the Christmas-time show later this year. Any thoughts, comments, suggestions, or complaints on this ship?
  20. This time, I decided to try building something that I have only ever seen one other MOC of. The J-1 Semi-Autonomous Proton Cannon. This thing has a very unique shape, and some fiddly limbs. I did a fair bit of physical brick building to figure out how I could do the legs, I'm happy with what I came up with. The legs can support a reasonable amount of weight, but overall I think this thing would need a stand to help support it. Anyways, here is what I came up with. A side view. The 3mm tubing is a little funky, but given how tricky is is to bend them in Stud.io I think it is a decent approximation. A comparison to 7869, and to my Delta-7b And action shot for fun.
  21. In this forum I will be showing buildings in LDD. All suggestions are welcome. How do you like this? This is the steering gear.
  22. Hi, In theory, should be coming a new update for LDD, no?? Someone knows something about that?
  23. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included scene.sc file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the scene.sc file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file spaceship.sc, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single scene.sc file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  24. Hello everyone, as promised here are my AAT and DDT MOCs. AAT - Armored Assault Tank While LEGOs Clone Wars AAT is actually very close to minifig scale, many of the proportions just aren't quite right. I changed the front sections shape a fair bit, as the actual tank isn't quite so round. It sort of flattens out in the middle, I also added the scoop in the front. In cross-section images it shows that the front domed peace is actually also a hatch, so I added that functionality since it was already on a hinge. There is enough room in the turret for a full droid, even with the hatch closed, you just need to fold the head down. The rear hatch can also open, revealing the droid crew, 1 driver and 2 gunners. Also did a palette swap for the AAT Lok Durd rides around in. DDT - Defoliator Deployment Tank The DDT design-wise isn't too different from the AAT. Shaping the stabilizers wasn't the easiest, but I think they came out alright. The turret itself wasn't too difficult to design, but oddly enough getting the grated platform along the side proved rather annoying. I had to leave it for a while and come at it with different perspective. As always, hope you enjoy.
  25. I'm not sure if anyone is aware of this, but there's Minecraft minifigure head decals in LEGO Digital Designer! Here are examples. I discovered this when I uninstalled LDD and reinstalled it earlier today.