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Found 882 results

  1. SUPER Max Black

    LDD projects and buildings

    In this forum I will be showing buildings in LDD. All suggestions are welcome. How do you like this? This is the steering gear.
  2. Please comment, request and discuss about LDD new parts here Now this topic is intended as a support area for the LDD New Parts thread Ok, let's do this. Inspired by @M2m thread I've started wrting a 3D Studio Max script that allows importing, editing and exporting LDD brick geometry and their XML data. They are rough, some geometry data is unknown (this doesn't have any visible or noticable impact so far) but it works and here's the result (click for bigger pictures): Fixed connectivity issue of 90 deg tube (pretty popular piece for 2018/2019 technic sets): Custom 3x5x2 panel that I saw in one of the Chinese custom (not copied from Lego) models: I was curious how my MOC would look like with more realistic, narrow tires so I shrinked Unimog tire to fit on 42029 rim. Dimensions: 81,6 x 30: For the tractor enthusiasts - how could a Class tire look like on an Arcos rim - also that Chinese model. Dimensions: 64,2 x 20 (I've made is slighty bigger than original tire): Moved some parts around and fixed default orientation of some of technic panels:
  3. Hi, In theory, should be coming a new update for LDD, no?? Someone knows something about that?
  4. This time, I decided to try building something that I have only ever seen one other MOC of. The J-1 Semi-Autonomous Proton Cannon. This thing has a very unique shape, and some fiddly limbs. I did a fair bit of physical brick building to figure out how I could do the legs, I'm happy with what I came up with. The legs can support a reasonable amount of weight, but overall I think this thing would need a stand to help support it. Anyways, here is what I came up with. A side view. The 3mm tubing is a little funky, but given how tricky is is to bend them in Stud.io I think it is a decent approximation. A comparison to 7869, and to my Delta-7b And action shot for fun.
  5. I've been working on this build since '7680 The Twilight' set came out in 2008. It started out as just modding the set to give it some interior, and slowly evolved with the continuous advances to LDD. Building this was the driving force behind designing my minifig scaled Delta-7, because I wanted to ensure that it would fit inside like in the show. I've gone through countless revisions to my design, even as far as starting from scratch at least 3 times. With every redesign came more research and I learned more and more about the design of this ship. I learned about a lot of things that never made it into the show. Things like that this ship actually has 3 levels to it, and that it uses an elevator to get between them. That they used 2 distinct 3D models of the ship and would switch between them during episodes, etc. It has been a long journey, but I'm finally happy enough with my design to share it. So into the details; Currently the ship sits at a total of 11,259pcs, measuring in at 102 studs (81.6cm) long by 132 studs (105.6cm) wide, by 37 studs (29.6cm) height (landed) or 84 studs (67.2cm) height (both outriggers extended). In other words, this thing is pretty big, still not as big as the Ghost, but it is the same length as the UCS Millenium Falcon. While I did find images and video of the majority of the interior I sacrificed a few of the unseen rooms in lieu of having more structure to hold the whole thing together. I did however keep all of the main areas, this includes the cockpit, cargo hold, connecting hallway and the boarding area. Comparing my build to the official Lego set. Here is a comparison between my Twilight, the UCS Millenium Falcon and my Ghost. As well as some comparisons with some of the official images that used to be on StarWars.com, I couldn't get the angles exactly right, but they're close enough to compare. And as a final note, I am currently in the process of building this monster, I have been slowly gathering pieces for the last few years, I have about 80% of the total pieces required, though I'm sure I'll have to make some modifications as I go. I will be posting updates as I go, but for now, here are my bins of parts, please forgive the unsorted disaster that they are currently in.
  6. Thanks to the open source SunFlow rendering system, i'm able to present: Bluerender A rendering engine for Lego Digital Designer. How it works: You just open the LXF file with Bluerender and click the big Render button. Optionally, you can choose an output png file and do a "preview" render: it will render the model in wireframe (useful for testing and framing your model). A set of default settings is provided that should looks good for most renders, but you can tinker with the scene description to use the full power of SunFlow. Rendering is fast, a 1024x768 image usually take no more than five minutes on average pc. This project came about as an experiment when i discovered that i could integrate SunFlow into Blueprint code with minimal effort. It's by no mean a competitor to Povray, which is slow but ultra-high quality, professional renderer. Features: Renders models, even big ones (tested on 12k piece models) Completely customizable scene Use camera settings from lxf file, so you can just frame your model in LDD. Support for LDD decorations and decoration substitution Limitations: many :P Documentation: A wiki is available with plenty of documentation. Using the renderer with default settings is quite simple. If you want to customize light, materials etc, you can change the scene description, simply edit the included scene.sc file. The syntax of the scene description is that of Sunflow and should be easy, there are some examples inside. Anyway some documentation is available here (note: it may be a little outdated at times). You can optionally have a custom scene file for each model: simply copy the scene.sc file and name it like your lxf model (for example, if you have spaceship.lxf, create the file spaceship.sc, in the same folder of course). You can override LDD decoration with your own adding lines like this in your scene file (the number is the decoration ID): ##CHANGEDECOR 59879 c:\path\to\custom\mydecor.png Issue Tracker: Have any bug or feature request? Be a good fellow and report it in our shiny issue tracker. Requirements: Java8 (revision 8u40 or better) Lego Digital Designer Disclaimer: Use at your own risk, i decline any responsability for anything that may happen to you using the program. Download: You can download Bluerender vers. 0005 here. Flickr Group: You can add your renders to the official Bluerender Lego Rendering group. Running on Mac: Some people were able to run Bluerender on Mac. Try the following instructions: Remove all java installations Install Java, but not from Oracle, from Homebrew instead. What's HomeBrew? I've no idea, but you can try following these instruction. Open a command prompt/shell/terminal, cd to the folder where you unzipped Bluerender Enter the following command: java -cp "bin/*" bluerender.BlueRender If the program manage to start, it will ask you to locate the db.lif file, you should find it here: /Users/USERNAME/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/db.lif Special thanks: to Bublible for his help with the renderer. to Jackalope for his help testing the app on Mac. to Fabrizio for his precious time as beta tester. Screenshot: Example Output: (these models are taken from the web, not mine) More examples can be found here. Here you can find a 3027x2304 render of a 12000 parts model, took about 30 minutes. Changelog: 0005: Black is now real black #93 Glass is now lighter #82 (thanks to bublible) Implemented bublible chrome materials #73 (thanks to bublible) Corrected NPE with invalid color codes (default to white) #86 Implemented aliases parsing and caching #81, #68 360° rotation renders #71 can now place light with transform{} blocks #72 (thanks to bublible) overwrite and other options are now persisted #64 basic parameters are now in the app #65 changed default background to white 0004: Janino shaders now work Automatic aspect ratio Overwrite without asking checkbox No longer "forget" some flexible elements Correct background color reflection for mirrors (no more black) 0003: Model loading is fast again (even faster!) Some textured glass support (not perfect yet) Clickable scene label (opens the scene file) Self adjusting plane height Search file in db folder beside db.lif Bugfixes 0002: remembers last used folder ask before overwrite use a single scene.sc file instead of three files for setup, materials, lights scene files are not shown on the program anymore (was more confusion than anything) optional per-model scene file LDD decoration support custom decoration support 0001: initial release
  7. Hello everyone, as promised here are my AAT and DDT MOCs. AAT - Armored Assault Tank While LEGOs Clone Wars AAT is actually very close to minifig scale, many of the proportions just aren't quite right. I changed the front sections shape a fair bit, as the actual tank isn't quite so round. It sort of flattens out in the middle, I also added the scoop in the front. In cross-section images it shows that the front domed peace is actually also a hatch, so I added that functionality since it was already on a hinge. There is enough room in the turret for a full droid, even with the hatch closed, you just need to fold the head down. The rear hatch can also open, revealing the droid crew, 1 driver and 2 gunners. Also did a palette swap for the AAT Lok Durd rides around in. DDT - Defoliator Deployment Tank The DDT design-wise isn't too different from the AAT. Shaping the stabilizers wasn't the easiest, but I think they came out alright. The turret itself wasn't too difficult to design, but oddly enough getting the grated platform along the side proved rather annoying. I had to leave it for a while and come at it with different perspective. As always, hope you enjoy.
  8. I'm not sure if anyone is aware of this, but there's Minecraft minifigure head decals in LEGO Digital Designer! Here are examples. I discovered this when I uninstalled LDD and reinstalled it earlier today.
  9. Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. Well, it may be a long time before I get a chance at building this model for real, but I have completed the digital design! If anyone is interested, an LDD file is available from my bricksafe page: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/NathanR/real-space/apollo-lut Original first post: Ever since I got my 21309 Saturn V, I thought it would be cool to have a model of the launch tower to go with it. I'm clearly not the only one because a similar model recently reached 10k votes on Lego Ideas - however, I'm impatient and so I decided to start building my own. I've been working in LDD due to a lack of physical bricks, and the first (very rough) sketch model is complete: The Saturn V rocket was launched from the Mobile Launch Platform (MLP, nothing to do with ponies...), a two story structure on which the rocket was constructed and fuelled. It measured 169x135 feet, or 56x46 studs at 1:110 scale, and also carried a 380 ft tall launch umbilical tower (LUT). The tower featured nine arms that provided electricity and other services to various parts of the rocket, and swung away just a fraction of a second before it blasted off. The rocket did not stand on the engine nozzles, but was instead suspended over a single exhaust vent measuring 45x45 feet. This should be 15x15 studs but I've gone with 14x14 studs for ease of building: I'm particularly proud of the design of the hold down arms: These four clamps held the rocket down until all five engines were confirmed to be running at full power, at which point they retracted behind heat-proof shields and allowed the Saturn V to soar skywards. Three additional holddown arms were located around the pad and have yet to be modelled. I'll add details once I have the core structure sorted. The base of the MLP uses 1x4x6 door frames like the version that was on Lego Ideas - an inspired choice which I've temporarily copied here (I'm actively trying to avoid looking at the Ideas model so I don't copy it), but I'm toying with 1x1x5 bricks to represent the support columns instead. I could really use some help and advice with this model though. How do I make it structurally sound? The MLP is a glorified box with a hole in it, but I've never built anything this big before and I'm not sure how to link together the baseplates. I had a few ideas for some internal supports: Do you think these would be strong enough? Should the outer wall be thicker? Should I criss-cross the entire hollow space with brick beams? How do I strike a good balance between strength and low parts count? You can view larger pictures and find the LDD file on bricksafe. If there's interest I'll make instructions available when the model is complete. Any advice or constructive feedback would be much appreciated!!
  10. Hello. I wanted to ask a question. When I was running through the site I realized that my LDD has something wrong, I can't show it in a photo but, the place to choose the pieces, in LDD Extended there are 30 categories. Whill in someone's LDD here on the site I saw 37 categories, some of which are different from the ones I have. Does anyone know if this is an update you have to do or is it a LEGO addition that you have to download? Remembering that my LDD version is 4.3.11 Brick version: 777
  11. Helo! I made a replica of the LEGO City 3181 model, which is an ordinary commercial airplane, but I found one however, I couldn't find any way to put the stickers that are used in the real model.
  12. [Rules of the Topic] [Statistics] - - - - - - - - - - [Not Indexed Yet Entries] [Themes A-C] - - - - [Themes D-M] - - - - [Themes N-S] - - - - [Themes T-Z] [Begin of the entries] - - - - - - - - - - [Last Update Point] Rules of the Topic (Please read these guidelines before posting) Here are some guidelines created in order to help to maintain this topic well ordered and help to built the index! Allowed Sets Set that has been officially released by LEGO and available for the purchase. Set whose Official Instructions has been released from TLG and are available in LEGO website. IMPORTANT NOTE: if building instructions or set's references are not easily available on common sources, please report that. The Set have to be constructed using official LEGO instructions and not interpreting preliminary or official images. The Set have to contain something you can build. Sets with scattered parts or single or few minifigures are not allowed. Irregular Posts Important NOTE: Irregular entries (inserted in posts that don't respect the Topic's Rules) won't be indexed. When you fix an irregular post, inform the indexer, so that he can update the index database. Good habits Avoid unnecessary posts inside this topic, if possible. Always use a new post to add new entry/entries. Don't add (or remove!) models to any existing post. If you think to build more sets in a short period of time, don't post them one by one but amass a bit of them and then post them together. Try to avoid to post more than one time in a single day. For any question/explanation/request/communication contact the indexer using private messages, when possible. Use of images in the topic [Guide] Only images related to posted sets (and then lxf file) are allowed, as a preview. Only one image for each set is allowed. Don't quote images from other posts. Any other image can be inserted as text link. Images should be simple and clear: no "creative" images are allowed, but simple screenshots. Avoid compositions (more images in one), images with another image as background, animated images, 3D images, renderings with external software, image with custom added parts, etc... Try to place objects inside the image so that the image results compact (i.e. avoid internal large blank space if possible) but clear. Try to place the camera so that the set results well visible. Avoid flat framing but choose a good 3D angle. As images are for preview purpose only, should be not too big! Maximum size allowed is 512x512 pixels for big sets (such as castles, modular buildings, stations, large space ships, etc...). Use intermediate sizes (for example 448px, 384px, 320px, ...) for smaller models. The 256x256px size or lower is often good for small sets. Crop images completely removing horizontal and vertical blank stripes around the subject (zero-pixles margins). Insert a model Report set's data and emphasize that in bold. Set's data include set Number, set official Name and set's Theme and subtheme if any. For example: 5988 - Pharaoh's Forbidden Ruins - Theme: Adventure If the set has more "configurations" (different models), please specify which one you are reproducing with LDD (Model A, Model B, etc...). NOTE: Alternate Versions (official different configurations for the same set) are counted as separate sets. If the set has been Re-Released with an identical or similar version, report the alternate Set ID(s). Report both the version of LDD and the brickset used to build the model. Insert a screenshot of your creation, in order to provide a preview. One screenshot for each set (see the rules about images above). Write an Error List, reporting if the model is complete or some element is missing or replaced (by a similar part, a brick assembly or any custom solution). Use part IDs to identify the bricks. Don't divide a single set in more than one post. Put a single set in a single .lxf file. You are encouraged to use LDD groups function to separate different elements in complex sets. LDD model should be similar to the original model as much as possible. Include minifigs, if any. Replace missing decorations with suitable ones, if possible. Modified models are welcome, but in different .lxf files, as an "extra". Every personalization (personal logos, additions, changes) makes a model a "Modified Model". and obviously... Share you lxf file! Update a set Update the post where you originally inserted the set. Report the update in the Upgrade Topic. Be care to follow the rules of the Upgrade Topic. [Sets created by other users] If the set has been built by another user, contact him and ask him to update his entry. Provide some help, if you find a way to solve some issue. If contact model's builder is not possible or he don't want to update it, insert the updated model in a new post as if it is a new model, but specify it is an update and insert the link to the original model's post. Inform the indexer before posting. Use of the new bricks from the custom LDD updates [new!] A model without custom bricks is necessary to the entry to be accepted as regular. A model with custom bricks is allowed as an extra. You are encouraged to publish both the models for your entries. Book or Request a set Refer to "Official Lego sets - Book, WIP, Requests" Topic. NOTE: you can ever choose to make an already made or booked set, if you want. Besides You are encouraged to inform an LDD file maker if you notice an adjustable defect in his/her LDD file! If you notice something wrong in the index, please report it to the indexer. If you use custom pieces to replace missing bricks in LDD, please post it in the "LDD custom bricks" Topic! Rules in brief Read the rules before posting here. Only regular entries will be indexed. Allowed sets: instructions officially released, no spared parts. Report references if necessary. Insert a model General rules: don't split model in more posts, don't add or remove entries to an existing post, group entries. Don't add personalizations to the model (except in order to replace missing parts). Use Groups. Extra are allowed, as text links. Models containing custom parts are allowed ad extra only. Necessary content: Set's Data, Image, LXF File, Error List. - Set's data: Set's ID, Set's name, Theme/Subtheme, alternative model (Model A, B, ...), alternative Set IDs if any. - Image: one for each set, simple screenshots, PNG with Alpha channel, maximum size 512x (big sets), crop (zero-pixles margins), not scattered, no flat view. - LXF file: one for each entry, direct link, report LDD and brickset version. - Error List: missing bricks/decorations, replaced brick/decorations, brick made replacements. Various: minimal quotes, don't quote images, report errors. (index/other entries).
  13. Hey everyone, hope everyone has been doing well. I've been busy working away at expanding my minifig scale MOC collection (Still only digitally atm). And thought I'd bring you something that I haven't really seen around anywhere. A minifig scale Hyena-class Bomber. This one was pretty tricky, but I think it came together rather well in the end. The official LEGO Hyena bomber was alright, but left a lot to be desired. The overall shaping of the ship was kind of off and the walking mode looked nothing like the source material. My goal was to get mine as close as I could and keep it in line with my other minifig scale builds. This was a little harder than I had anticipated, and I had to make one sacrifice right off the bat. There was no way that I could get the legs to physically retract the way they do on the actual ship, even more so at this scale. So unfortunately there is a small bit of "parts-forming" required between modes, but I made it as little as possible. I was able to get the wing mounts to extend out of the main body to allow upper leg movement though. The other thing that always made the model look wrong was using the head build method established by LEGO. While the stickers used to make up the "face" look nice, the overall head shape is left extremely flat. It took a week or so of playing with parts, but I was finally able to come up with a brick-built head design I was happy with. While it may not be perfect, for the most part has the general shaping of the actual Hyena bomber. I then utilized variations of the technique to build the other head-like shapes on the ship, including the targeting head below. I've also included a couple photos with some of my other MOCs for size comparison. Prior to working on the Hyena bomber, I had built a minifig scale Vulture droid, but was unhappy with the stock LEGO style head. However after figuring out the head for the Hyena bomber it wasn't too hard to down-scale to get a suitable head for it too. So since they are fairly similar I'm including the pictures of it here as well. Both ships were designed to use The Clone Wars colour schemes, although it could be debated that they Hyena should be sand blue rather than DBG, but given that practically none of the pieces come in that colour, there wasn't much choice. There are scenes from the show where it does look more grey that blue anyways. As always, hope you enjoy! I'll be back soon with my minifig scale ATT and DDT.
  14. Hey everyone, today I bring you my take on a minifig scale LAAT/i or Republic Gunship. Firstly, this thing is complicated... I started working on this early last year, but took a break from it because trying to figure out how to translate the complex shape of this thing was driving my crazy. While there are a lot of really nice gunships out there, I really wanted to see if I could match the narrow profile of the front of the ship, as well as get the flare out to the back that it has. Needless to say, accomplishing that in Lego is not easy, but I think I came up with a decent solution. The entire upper part of the gunship actually tapers from 6 studs wide in the back, down to 4 in the front. The "floor" of the gunship also tapers, which is one of the most common things people seem to avoid in other MOCs, probably because it's a major pain to do and it messes with the door alignment. The doors utilize technic fig hands and mixel joints to achieve the sloping from the front to back of the gunship. The doors were a real challenge due to the angles, and my first go at it didn't have enough head room to allow for a fig to stand inside, so I had to take another go at it, but this version seems to hold up. As usual a pic with my Delta-7B for scale. And some other colour variants. I've also done some test building to make sure that this thing actually works, I was worried that with all the angles it would be extremely brittle, but it holds together better then I thought it would. Inspiration notes: Under wing supports as well as some frontal structure inspired by Caleb Ricks. Front nose roundness inspired by Maelven. Engine build inspired by Chef Aslopert. Engine cones inspired by Kit Bricksto. Flood/Search lights inspired by David Buchholz.
  15. I propose to keep here an up-to-date ldraw.xml, the file used by LDD to convert to and from LDraw files. Download: latest version On Windows 32 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Windows 64 bits: download and replace the one in “C:\Program Files (x86)\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\” On Mac: download and replace the one in the “Contents\Resources\” folder in the app (open “Applications” in Finder, right click on the “LEGO Digital Designer” package and select the “Show Package Contents” option to explore the pakage folders). (Thanks manglegrat!) This file is also used and distributed with these tools: lxf2ldr C++/Qt version (both CLI and GUI), more options but needs to be compiled lxf2ldr.html HTML/JS version, works everywhere! If you have other modifications or additions, post them here or send me a personal message and I’ll include them to the benefit of all. If you need a part, feel free to ask here and I’ll try to add it (provided it exists in LDraw and LDD). History and Contents It’s based upon gallaghersart’s latest version (see this thread). It includes the modifications shutterfreak published in his thread. It uses some of the LDraw unofficial parts (mainly for new parts in LDD Brick version 2075). It includes some name corrections (because LDraw renamed or moved some parts, added new variants, etc.). I tried to more accurately convert the colors (now mainly according to Ryan Howerter’s conversion table). It’s not easy because all sources (Swooshable, Mecabricks, Ryan) don’t agree, and there are holes and overlaps. But as these differences, holes, and overlaps occur for rare colors or colors that aren’t available in LDD, it should be okay. In a megalomaniacal way, all the entries I have modified have an “SLS” at the end of their heading comments. New entries have an “SLS” at the front of the comments. So it’s easy to know when to blame me. As of 2016-09-16 and the big overhaul, I assume all the errors. Know Limitations As of LDD 4.3.9, flex parts (hoses) are not exported anymore (even unflexed). Minifig arms and hands are not connected in LDraw. I don’t know whose geometry is off (both?) but the shapes differ a lot. At least, hands are correctly connected to whatever they clip and arms are correctly placed in their sockets and somewhat wrap around the hands’s stems. Some variants are not recognized by LDD (e.g. clips, or tiles with/without groove, etc.) In those cases, I prefer to use the most recent variant in LDraw as it generally is easier to find and cheaper. Sometimes, several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part. Sometimes, the transformation is accurate for one variant but not for another. For example, the Flag 2 x 2 is known to LDD as 2335, 11055, and 60779, but LDraw only has the 2335 variant. 2335 and 60779 use the same transformation but 11055 is vertically offset. I preferred to badly convert 11055 to 2335 rather than not convert it at all or badly convert 2335 and 60779. ldraw.xml is used both ways (LDD to/from LDraw). It’s not something I do frequently (too many resulting collisions) so it’s not well tested. One problem I can see is that, when several LDD parts correspond to a unique LDraw part, the conversion that’s listed last is the one that will be used. The reverse (first written is the one used) is true for assemblies that use the same subparts, in the same quantity (like electric cables). A lot of LDraw parts are simply wrong. Almost all the parts that combine System (studs and anti-studs) and Technic (pins and axles, and their holes) are wrong in that they assume the technic holes are at the same height than side studs (on the picture below, the circles are concentric). LDD assumes the holes are 0.2 mm (0.5 LDU) higher. In ABS, the holes are 0.12 mm (0.375 LDU) higher (dixit Jamie Berard in his famous presentation). In order to limit the number and magnitude of errors, LDD is considered to be right. How to write a new transformation for a part in ldraw.xml What? ldraw.xml is an XML file that defines how LDD can export to (or import from) LDraw files. It does so by defining a match between the part’s IDs and how to rotate and translate the part from one geometry to the other. Matches are defined by “Brick” XML elements. For example, this one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 that it knows as 3005 is also known to LDraw as 3005: <Brick ldraw="3005.dat" lego="3005" /> (Note the “.dat” in the ldraw ID.) Matches are not needed if the part IDs are the same: the transformation element is sufficient for LDD to know the part exists. (So the example above is useless ) Rotations and translations are defined by “Transformation” XML elements. This one says to LDD that the Brick 1x1 just needs to be moved up: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> The translation (tx, ty, and tz) is in centimeters (0.8 cm is the width of a brick, 0.96 cm its height). The rotation is given by its axis (the line passing through and ), and its angle in radians. And all the coordinates are in the direct (“riht-handed”), Y points up, coordinates system of LDD. The transformation explains what should be done to import from LDraw besides changing the axes (LDD’s Y is up and XYZ is a direct basis, LDraw’s Y is down and XYZ is an indirect basis; so changing the axes only means changing the sign of Y). So, in an LDD to LDraw point of view, the transformation is reversed: it says what happens to a part if you don’t do anything to its coordinates besides changing the sign of Y. In other words, the opposite transformation has to be applied to the LDD coordinates of the part in order to get the LDraw coordinates (with Y reversed). Why? Each part has an orientation (which way up? which way left?) and a center, point of origin, or reference point (we’ll use “reference point” from now on). But LDD and LDraw don’t always agree. To know the orientation and reference point in LDD, insert the part without rotating it nor attaching it to any other part. It will be aligned along the scene’s axes (LDD’s axes). The reference point is near the mouse pointer’s head. To know the orientation and reference point in LDraw, I find LeoCAD the easiest tool: just select the part and its axes are drawn (X red, Y green, Z blue), starting at its reference point. Okay, LeoCAD’s «X, Y, Z» is LDraw’s «X, -Z, Y» but what’s another little change of basis? Sometimes, their disagreement is trivial. For example, for the simple 1x1 brick (3005), both LDD and LDraw agree: the stud is on top and the reference point is on the vertical line going through the center of the stud. But they differ for the height at which the reference point should be: LDD says it’s at the base of the brick, LDraw at its top (but at the base of the stud). (On every picture, X will be red, Y green, and Z blue.) So the transformation for that part is straightforward: if the LDraw part is imported as is, with only Y reversed, it will end up 0.96 cm (the height of the brick) higher than it should. So we have to lower it by 0.96 cm: <Transformation ldraw="3005.dat" tx="0" ty="-.96" tz="0" ax="1" ay="0" az="0" angle="0" /> Sometimes, their disagreement is more profound and the transformation is therefore more complicated. For example, for the musket (Minifig Gun Musket 2561), LDD puts the reference point in the handle and “up” means the handle is vertical but LDraw puts the reference point in the barrel and “up” means the barrel is vertical. Even more, the stock is on the wrong side, so X and Z are different too. With an identity transformation, the part is rotated by an eighth of a turn (X to Y) (π/4) around the Z axis to put the barrel vertical, and then by a quarter turn (X to Z) (-π/2) around the Y axis. After that, it has been translated up and horizontally. After calculations (see below), we’ll end up with this transformation: <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> How? So, how do we find the right values to have the correct transformations? What’s the ID? Having the right part Check the ID of the part in LDD. Check the ID of the part in LDraw. Beware of variants, LDraw uses a letter suffix (a, b, c…) where LDD totally changes the ID or keeps the same ID for new variants. Don’t hesitate to look on BrickLink for the part ID: BrickLink keeps a list of alternate IDs (when the same part has several IDs) and links to variants and notes. If the IDs are the same. Nothing to do. If the IDs differ. We add a Brick element: <Brick ldraw="123a.dat" lego="456" /> Don’t forget the “.dat”! That was the easy part. Which way is up? Finding the rotation axis and angle We start in LDD. Up is Y, or Y is up. X and Z are a bit harder to see on the LDD scene unless you use LDD’s developper mode (which has the LDD axes drawn at «0,0,0» as red X, green Y, and blue Z lines). Or, if you’re sure you didn’t move the camera in a brand new model/file, X is pointing bottom right, and Z bottom left. We place our part among other parts that we know will be correctly converted (like 1x1 plates, or harpoons ) to have references. Using different colors greatly helps! We export to LDraw… … and look at the results: We decompose the transformation in multiple simple rotations, around the X, Y, or Z axis. If it has been turned around X, a quarter turn from Y to Z is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Z, a quarter turn from X to Y is a positive π/2 angle. If it has been turned around Y, a quarter turn from Z to X is a positive π/2 angle. To make it short, it’s a direct (right-handed) basis. If you can’t figure out the problems with an existing transformation, “clear” it by using an identity transformation: <transformation tx="0" ty="0 tz="0" ax="0" ay="1" az="0 angle="0"/> (All zeroes but one of the a_ which is 1.) You can try each simple rotation one by one to be sure of their angles (especially their signs ). Beware, combining rotations change their axes (e.g. turning around first X then Y is equivalent to turning around first Y then Z). So if you check that the Y rotation is okay, then the X rotation, don’t forget to combine them as Y then Z. For the musket, we need two rotations: an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z (blue) axis that puts the barrel vertical, and then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis. Or we can first make the quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y (green) axis, and then an eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the X (red) axis. Remember, “import”-wise, we’re trying to find what should happen to the part in the LDD scene to be like the LDraw one, with the LDD axes (the harpoons ). My head is turning. Combining rotations If more than one simple rotation is needed, we have to combine them. For that, we’ll use quaternions. Eh come back! That’s not that difficult! A quaternion q can be written as q = a + b.i + c.j + d.k, where i² = j² = k² = i.j.k = -1 (so i.j = k = -j.i, j.k = i = -k.j, k.i = j = -i.k). a is the real part, b.i + c.j + d.k is the imaginary part. A rotation by the angle angle around the axis «ax, ay, az» is the quaternion q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) Do note the 1/2 factor on the angle! To combine two rotations, we just multiply their quaternions and apply the rules above to end up with a a + b.i + c.j + d.k form (or, more accurately, a C + S.(ax.i + ay.j + az.k) form, where C and S are cosine and sine of the same angle and ax² + ay² + az² = 1 ). If we rotate first by q and then by p, the result is the rotation by p.q. Note the order: q then p is p.q. Multiplication is not commutative with quaternions: if you do it the wrong way, you’ll end up with the correct values but the wrong signs. There’re lots of fun to have with quaternions and rotations as quaternions. But what is said here is sufficient for our purposes. An example: Most of the times, we do π/2 rotations (quarter turns, 90°). angle = π/2 therefore cos(angle/2) = sin(angle/2) = cos(π/4) = sin(π/4) = √2/2; So, for a “horizontal” quarter turn (yaw, around Y): q = √2/2 + √2/2.j (as j/Y is the “vertical” axis). Let’s combine it with a half turn (π, 180°) around the X axis (IOW, upside-down): cos(π/2) = 0, sin(π/2) = 1, so p = 0 + i p.q = (0 + i) . (√2/2 + √2/2 j) = √2/2 i + √2/2 i.j = 0 + √2/2 ( i + k ) Now, let’s get the resulting angle: The real part of p.q, 0, is the cosine of angle/2. 0 is also the cosine of ±π/2 (±90°). Therefore, the resulting angle is π (180°). Now the axis, «ax, ay, az»: It’s the √2/2( i + k) imaginary part. That’s the vector «√2/2, 0, √2/2». We need to remove the sin(angle/2) factor. That’s easy as the sine of π/2 is 1. So our axis is «ax = √2/2, ay = 0, az = √2/2». Written in ldraw.xml: ax="0.707…" ay="0" az="0.707…" angle="3.1415…" Another one, a quarter turn around Y and then around X: q = √2/2 + √2/2 j = √2/2 (1 + j) p = √2/2 + √2/2 i = √2/2 (1 + i) p.q = 1/2 (1 + i) (1 + j) = 1/2 + 1/2 (i + j + k) We rewrite it as p.q = 1/2 + √3/2 (√⅓ i + √⅓ j + √⅓ k) to have a unit vector (ax² + ay² + az² = 1) in the parenthesis and to clarify the cosine and sine: 1/2 and √3/2. They are the sine and cosine of π/3 (60°). Therefore, the resulting angle is 2π/3 (120°). In ldraw.xml: ax="0.577…" ay="0.577…" az="0.577…" angle="2.094…" Back to our musket: An eighth of a turn (π/4, 45°) around the Z axis that puts the barrel vertical: q = cos(π/8) + sin(π/8).i = C + S.k Then a quarter turn (-π/2, -90°) around the Y axis: p = cos(-π/4) + sin(-π/4).j = √2/2 (1 - j) p.q = √2/2.(1 - j)(C + S.k) = √2/2.(C - S.j.k - C.j + S.k) = √2/2.C + (-√2/2.S.i - √2/2.C.j + √2/2.S.k) Wow! Hum, okay. So √2/2.cos(-π/8) is the cosine of half our angle. Get the calculator out… angle/2 = Acos(√2/2.cos(-π/8)) = 0.8589 Our angle is 1.7178. We “remove” the sine of angle/2 from our vector, so that p.q = cos(angle/2) + sin(angle/2).(ax.i + ay.j + az.k): ax = -√2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.3574 ay = -√2/2.cos(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = -0.8629 az = √2/2.sin(-π/8) / sin(0.8589) = 0.3574 As an exercise, you can verify that ax² + ay² + az² = 1. So we did it right! Et voilà: ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016" One step to the left. Getting the translation right Now that the part is correctly oriented, it may need to be moved. The translation is in centimeters (cm). 20 LDU = 0.8 cm. Values are often multiples of 0.4 (half a stud) for tx and tz and multiples of 0.32 (height of a plate) for ty. Other, finer, tunings are often in multiples of 0.008. If the rotation is complex, all bets are off In LDD, we try to place the part so that its LDraw up axis ends up up in the scene, and we try to align its LDraw X and Z axes with X and Z of the scene (at least, that it is not rotated by a weird angle). That way, moving the part along its axes is also moving the part along the scene’s axes. It will be easier for getting the translation right. For our musket, that means the barrel up. (I didn’t align the X and Z axes here because, yeah, I’m a warrior, I don’t need that. Besides, you’ll see what happens because of that. ) Again, I find it easier in LeoCAD: the key bindings, the coordinates clearly shown in the status bar, etc. The thing is, LeoCAD uses a direct Z up basis. So if you move «dx, dy, dz» in LeoCAD, you’re moving «dx, -dz, dy» in LDD (and vice versa). Confusing? Noooh. Anyway, choose your own poison but beware of its little quirks. To help fine tuning, using transparent colors greatly helps, especially for clip-bar connections. Now, we note the coordinates of our part in our LDraw editor and move it so that it ends up the way it should. We look how much we moved it. That’s it! Just convert it to cm (= LDU × 0.8 / 20) and we have our translation. Well, mostly, the signs are wrong. Remember: the transformation is what should happen to the LDD part to end up like the LDraw part, we just did the opposite and moved the LDraw part to be like the LDD one. Besides the signs, if you didn’t correctly align the axes, you’ll have to find which is which For our musket, we need to go up and sligthly to the “left” (from bottom right to upper left when your LDraw view is oriented as a new LDD file, as are all the screenshots here). That means negative dy and dx. But as the part is not aligned on X and Z (but still not badly rotated), the negative dx becomes a positive dz. Et voilà! <Transformation ldraw="2561.dat" tx="0" ty="-1.72" tz="0.336" ax="-0.3574067443365933" ay="-0.8628562094610169" az="0.3574067443365933" angle="1.7177715174584016"/> (So, okay. I had to try first tx then tz, both negative and positive, before I found the right one. But I didn’t want to have to remake the pictures! There: I’m not a warrior, I’m just lazy.)
  16. Delusion Brick

    "Belisarius" Skeleton Pirate Ghost Ship

    Belisarius is a pirate boat that after a lot of journeys and adventures, in one of its trips and in its final quest for a long-lost treasure that was located in the abyss, it met a magical sea dragon. The dragon was the guard of the abyss that did not allow bad spirits to rise the surface. After a battle between the dragon and the ship not only was the dragon beaten but also it became the ship’s skeleton. All the sailors were transformed as well into it’s skeleton which also became part of the ship. So now, the ship took the role of the guard and protector until someone else had to win and take with its turn that role. The set includes florescent pieces so when you switch off the light you can see the skeleton, the mystique of the dragon and the darkness vanishes the black bricks of the ship which looks like its flying in the air. More Photos: (Submission has expired) https://ideas.lego.com/projects/d41fa54f-132a-4e85-8264-908b8133be97
  17. I present to you the backbone of the Rebel Alliance – the GR-75 Rebel Transport: After having tweaked and tweaked my last MOC (Medical Frigate) and built a fleet of fighters and smaller ships for it, I wanted to build something bigger - but in the same scale. I chose the beautiful, organic looking 90-meters long, Rebel Transport. The Medical Frigate can be seen here: http://www.eurobrick...pic=129607&st=0 http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=131170 The Transport is the workhorse of the Rebel alliance, transporting equipment from base to base. The ship can house dozens of odd sized containers kept in place by strong magnetic locks. The Transport, like so many other Rebel ships, have a very organic and beat up look – getting this look right was the biggest challenge when designing the moc. The scale of the model is 1: 250 meaning it is built at 2 meters per stud. Thus the Transport is 45 studs long. Building the most detailed 45 stud version of the ship was my main goal. Based on pictures of the movie model I calculated the width and curvature of the ship – I fired up LDD and began building. What I ended up with was an 850+ brick model made up of 150+ brick types: The Transport takes flight! Front view. In this picture the curvature of the ship is very pronounced. To my luck the range of curved bricks fit perfectly with curvature of the ship. When placed along a central spine they further underline the lines the Transport has across the hull. Don’t mind the small hole in the front – one of the hinges is slightly too bent. Top view. I have mostly used white 1 x 4 curved slopes to get the proper shape. However, to get the dirty, rugged look of the ship, I have mixed in a number of different colors and other curved slopes. The Cargo. The GR-75 can carry a LOT of containers. Creating this part of the ship was kind of a chore but also very fun. At this scale I had just enough resolution to attempt recreating every single cargo container and detail from the studio model. I found a picture of the model showing the bottom up and began mapping every container pipe and greeble I could. I recreated it all with bricks of matching colors, pipes, taps and odd shaped pieces. The end result matches the haphazard stacking of the studio model – I’m glad I put the magnetic locks in place… :) Containers from the back. As with the Medical Frigate, one of the challenges was creating a sturdy non-interfering stand. With this ship one of the stands is placed in the middle of the containers. However I did not want to sacrifice even a single compartment so I found a workaround using transparent wall pieces. The slim piece is fitted snugly in between a number of containers and is just connected via two studs – but it seems to hold :) Container close up. They are all there :) Starboard profile view. This angle reveals the slight sloping of the hull towards the rear end of the ship. The curving effect was achieved by a number of plate hinges and four sections with slightly different angles. Port profile view. The profile views show the gap between the top and bottom hull plates. This gap has a jagged effect on the studio model – conveyed here by 1 x 1 and 1 x 2 plates. Side detail. Yes, there is actually detailing in the narrow gap between the hull plates. Again, the greebling is based on looking at the studio model – and on what was possible in such a small area :) Engine view. As always, one of my favorite parts of a ship. Getting all the engines to fit in there was a bit of a challenge. Rear view. As the Transport flies out of focus the uneven surface is again evident. The Transport has a very small command/deflector module - the little thing on top of the spine. To be in scale this module should actually be about half a stud smaller – even smaller than a B-wing cockpit section. However, the 2,5 stud test I did, did not look very good :) Lastly a scale comparison with the Medical Frigate – and the rest of the rebel fleet :) Thanks to all the supporters of the Medical Frigate project, you have helped make this model possible! Everyone can get the LDD for the Rebel Transport here: https://www.dropbox..../GR-75.lxf?dl=0 Enjoy and please comment!
  18. This ship was heavily inspired by set 4195 (Queen Anne's Revenge) for the ship itself and set 31109 for the brick-built sails + pirate flag. The vessel is named the "Hell Bent", and is crewed by sailors-turned-demons, led by Captain Victor "Jawbone" Blucher. It will be built after the "Silver Crab" pirate ship is done. The vessel has eight cannons ready to fire at a moments notice. The rear of the ship has the nameplate on the stern, right below the custom brick-built pirate flag. The model has a removable steering area for access to the captain's quarters, which has a desk and chair with two wall lanterns nearby. Captain Victor (the figure on the right side) lost his lower jaw after a pistol shot at a vision of The Man Upstairs rebounded unto him, and was turned into a demon (along with his crew) by said entity for his crime against nature. He also gained an painful iron jawbone as an additional punishment, and so he could communicate with his crew verbally. The Hell Bent and it's crew have roamed the 7 seas for about 28 years now, only allowed to enter a port once every seven years for a week. Just like the legendary storm-tossed Flying Dutchman and it's infernal crew, this ship is a bad omen at sea for merchants, but strangely is considered a good one for pirates, since it was a pirate ship to begin with. Usually, if the ship is sighted by a merchant ship, the crewmate who saw it will then die and join the demon-crew's ranks, but for pirates, it is allowed to get closer to exchange news of the world via bags of mail / news clippings / etc. sent over in waterproofed bags. (In reality, I'm going to use Nexo Knights lava soldiers' heads and torsos for the crew and captain.) If you have any thoughts, questions, complaints, suggestions, or comments, please post them below!
  19. To keep this topic clean of comments, please request and discuss HERE All the undesired posts will be moved in the aforementioned related thread It has been a long time since Lego Digital Designer (LDD) has been updated with new parts. For a long time the exact format of the code from the LDD parts was not exactly understood. Now, a few members of the Eurobricks community cracked the code and are able to create parts in the format LDD uses. This post shall list these new parts and contains a link to a zip/rar file with those new parts. Rules Off course we would all like to have as many new parts as soon as possible. That doesn't necessarily guarantee the highest quality standard. Therefor we have compiled some rules. Only parts that adhere to these rules will be added to the parts pack(s). Parts may only come from open sources. That means that LDraw parts are allowed, but that Mecabricks parts are strictly forbidden; A part must always have connectivity and boundary boxes; A part may include collision boxes but this is not necessary for approval. Reaching the LDD part database First things first. How to access the current parts of LDD? We need to know that before we can add new parts. Windows Download LDD LIF Extractor for 32- or 64-bit systems. The LIF file contains the LDD parts. It can be found here: LINK; Unzip the LIF Extractor zip file; Navigate to: Users/[UserName]/AppData/Roaming/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer. The "AppData" folder could be hidden; if so: activate "Show hidden files"; Here you'll find a file named "db.lif". Drag that file onto LIFExtractor.exe; You'll now find a folder named "db". Rename "db.lif" into something else (i.e. "xxdb.lif"), this is your parts back-up file! Enter the folder, go to "Primitives". This folder contains the technical data for the parts. Navigate further to "LOD0", this folder contains the 3D models for the parts. iOS/Mac Download LIF-Extractor from JrMasterModelBuilder. It can be found here: LINK. Go to folder: /Users/myusername/Library/Application\ Support/LEGO\ Company/LEGO\ Digital\ Designer/ Extract the db.lif using JrMasterModelBuilder's LIF-Extractor.py Python script by using Terminal: python LIFExtractor.py /Users/myusername/Library/Application\ Support/LEGO\ Company/LEGO\ Digital\ Designer/\db.lif This will create a "db" subfolder containing the extracted contents of the db.lif file. Rename "db.lif" into something else (i.e. "xxdb.lif"), this is your parts back-up file! Enter the folder, go to "Primitives". This folder contains the technical data for the parts. Navigate further to "LOD0", this folder contains the 3D models for the parts. Accessing the new parts Now for the real exciting part: adding parts to LDD. Lego Digital Designer should be closed for this. Download the update parts pack (rar file) to the location of the "db" folder from the latest post below; Unpack the folder; If asked if you want to replace files, click "Yes to all". Now you will have the latest parts and the newest part geometries. Contributors We own the addition of these new parts to them, please give them some credit. @jester: 211 parts changed or added @Stephan: 5 parts changed or added @Equilibrium: 32 parts added, 35 parts updated How to contribute Coming soon!
  20. jimmynick

    [MOC] Ebon Hawk

    "Ah, there she is — the Ebon Hawk. My pride and joy; the fastest ship in the Outer Rim!" - Davik Kang. It's been a long time since I've made a Star Wars MOC - 12 years in fact, and my last effort was a rainbow-warrior Delta 7 built mostly from the old Clone Turbo Tank. I turned my attention to the Ebon Hawk, the Falcon's expy from the Knights of the Old Republic games. There have been some excellent versions of this ship over the years, notably @IRONDUCK's playset version, but I wanted to build something of a system "scale model": Here is the Hawk in comparison to the 7965 Millennium Falcon. The Falcon is officially 25.6-ish metres wide, and the Hawk is a little smaller at 22.5m. The ship's proportions were driven by the 4-wide cockpit: IRONDUCK's MOC and the official LEGO Falcons are all a bit chunky in order to fit an interior, but since I took a "scale model" approach, there is no room inside for minifigures. Structure takes the areas occupied by the bunks and cargo holds, leaving us with the central area and the hyperdrive room, which I captured on the Hawk's internal security camera: I pasted my model over a couple of frames from the end cutscene of KOTOR II: Lastly, whom would you pick to fly the Hawk: Atton, T3-M4, or Carth? Thanks for looking. Please see more renders on Flickr.
  21. **EDIT: New images here ** This is my entry for the LDD/LDraw Contest 2014 free build category. Since I always dreamed of traveling the world in something like this I created a LEGO version: the roof can be lifted while the truck is parking. The truck carries a motorbike on the back. The roof is walkable and can be used as a terrace =) Of course it has a comfortable interiour. The truck has two bedrooms (one in the roof). In case of a zombie apocalypse it has some flick fire missiles hidden behind the front bumper ;-). Here is the LDD File. Best regards marv
  22. I know, a big beefy car sells well as a toy, but sometimes they just look ridiculous imho. That´s why i tried to design a smaller version of the Ninja Tuner Car. And because i had a creative block, i started using Jerry Builds Bricks Cyberpunk 2077 car as a base and modded it a little bit. I wanted to incorporate most of the stickered parts of the original set or at least wanted enough surface to put on the original stickers. I also tried to find a way to use a similar color palette and of course that crazy pink windshield. So, what do you guys think of it? Anything you would change?
  23. Xon67

    Assembling Bricksburg

    edited to put all final images in the first post... After seeing the LEGO movie, I wanted to re-create buildings from Emmet's neighborhood. While researching, I realized a great deal of what was in the movie was based on previously-existing sets. I thought it would be interesting to do a project that compared the original LEGO sets to the modified movie versions. Knowing how much time, money, and physical space it would take to build these out of real bricks, I decided to try my hand at LEGO Digital Designer (LDD). After having created a couple of the buildings in LDD, I ran across the post for Bluerender and used it to generate photo-real renderings. Here are my results: .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...logo_final_.lxf The latest image posts: "I wanna go home!" LEGO Movie 2 logo The latest WIP of Emmet's Mech (with BlackStar): .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_emmetsmech_2017-07-20.lxf Emmet's apartment Emmet's apartment interior How Emmet fits a 50-stud-wide apartment into a 30-stud-wide building: A variation on Emmet's apartment (green with a slanted roof) Pet Store (right) Pet Store (left) Plumber Joe's apartment .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...the_plumber.lxf Condemned building Fresh Fruit market Sherrie Scratchen-Post's apartment Emmet's street Emmet's street in micro scale Fire Brigade .lxf file: http://www.brickshel...ire_brigade.lxf Fire Brigade Tower (updated) Filling Station Garage Street Corner Rooftop garden 1 Rooftop garden 2 An example of the reuse of building parts Warehouse 1 Warehouse 2 (Fire Brigade) Mega Green Grocer Bricksburg Castle Bricksburg Castle back Cafe Corner / hotel with clock tower Fish (market?/restaurant?) Office(?) Building Office Building Church It's not mentioned in the images, but the the ice cream cart in this image, the giant Green Grocer, and the "fish" building comes from 10211 Grand Emporium. Cheese Slope building Fire Brigade Radio Station Plaza with Bob's Kabobs Here are some Bricksburg accessories from the Movie, including garbage containers, rooftop details, a street corner, billboards, and the mosaics from the "fish" and "fresh fruit" buildings, including the LDD file, for you to use in your own MOCs: lxf file: http://www.brickshel...accessories.lxf Condemned building Condemned building Ma and Pa Cop's house Highway Overpass Train bridge Monorail stop .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/_movie_train_stop_stairs_alt3.lxf Downtown plaza Skyscraper ground level The Coffee Chain .lxf file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Xon67/Movie/movie_coffee_chain.lxf Downtown Bricksburg and the Kragle antidote. Skyscraper 1 Skyscraper 2 Skyscraper 3 Skyscraper 4 Skyscraper 5 Skyscraper 6 Skyscraper 7 Downtown: Flying cranes Downtown: Larry's flying coffee machine Skyscraper under construction 1 Skyscraper under construction 2 Construction site Construction Site Update: Small cement mixer Tipper Truck Cement mixer Dump Truck Crawler Crane Instruction Tube Large crawler crane Instruction Holder Building cranes Building crane Construction helicrane Brick sorter Front end loader Back hoe Heavy loader Emmet's mech Emmet's mech compared to the official set Rush hour traffic Small car Public transportation, monorail, and Surfer Dave's car SUV Small van Delivery truck Police cruiser SWAT van Octan HQ micro scale upper floors Octan HQ micro scale Octan HQ from Finn's basement Octan HQ minifig scale Octan reception: Lord Business' relic room Octan corridor with MetalBeard and Benny Octan sound stage--news conference stage Octan sound stage--80s-something technology Octan sound stage--Where Are My Pants? Octan offices. Octan Control Room. Octan DJ booth Octan Executive Conference Room Lord Business' ThinkTank Octan flying cube. The many moods of MetalBeard MetalBeard's strong, virile body MetalBeard's "Down on the Farm" form Mrs. Scratchen-Post's kitty sled lxf file: http://www.brickshel...post_sleigh.lxf A Christmas tree assembled by The LEGO Movie Master Builders Emmet's snow sculpture A surprise Christmas tree for Bad Cop Nathan Sawaya's Oscar statue from the 2015 Academy Awards. Mark Mothersbaugh's LEGO energy domes from the 2015 Academy Awards Awards given to all Emmet Awards nominees End Title Concept End credits: Movie Theater End credits: WyldStyle's tag End credits: Music End credits: Movie premiere End credits: Kragle End credits: Taco Tuesday End credits: Consessions End credits: Secret Police End credits: Sound stage End credits: Construction End credits: Warehouse More on the way!
  24. This is Samus Aran, a famous bounty hunter and the main protagonist of the Metroid game series. Made as a very belated b-day gift for a good friend. Made in LEGO Digital Designer, rendered with POV-Ray, postprocessed in Adobe Photoshop. Total time: 9 hours.
  25. Dunkleosteus

    Custom Hull Tutorial

    Tutorial https://www.flickr.c...../<br /><br />