ScotNick

Hi @evancelt! Wow, flattering to see a replica of my model! I've run into a similar problem quite some time ago, albeit not with my Thomas model. It seems that some of those flex rods (not all though) are a bit too short, while others are fine. Not sure about the reason, but I'd suspect that during the cooling process some rods might have shrunken a bit more than they should have. I had the problem with my 4L long flex tubes as can be seen here: This is inacceptable! by ScotNick1, auf Flickr I "fixed" this by replacing the flex cables with metal rods cut to length and putting them in some Lego hoses. Sadly I don't have a good pic anywhere, but it works. I can only show this video where you can see one of those metal rods exposed - the others are coverd by the hoses. You might have to try a little bit at first hand, but it works, is MUCH cheaper than buying flex cables, and you can also have odd lengths ;) valve gear testing by ScotNick1, auf Flickr Hope this helps! Cheers, Nick

Do you think it would be possible to manufacture those linkages from steel or some other sort of metal?

I called JB Spielwaren on August 30 for my pre-order. They said they were still waiting for the arrival of the shipment. Communication could be better, but the delay seems to be caused by shipping.

Love the buildings and the techniques throughout! The columns and brick work on the leather shop look especially nice, as well as the watch tower. Really amazing build!

@Hod Carrier You can find some of the wheel dimensions on this page: http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=Wheels You can convert the dimensions to plates by dividing by 3.2 - one plate equals 3.2 mm in height. Regarding Stud.io files for the wheels: I did do a couple wheels, but not all. You can find them in this topic: Cheers, Nick

Thank you, always happy to help the Lego train community! Thanks @CMF-1138 for the input! I did change the instructions accordingly using some of your wording, hope this is ok! Also included the differences for Windows and Mac. Cheers, Nick

Hey guys! I have made some custom parts for Stud.io which I wanted to share with you! First of all I added the connectivity to the files of the Big Ben Bricks drivers. In addition I used them as a basis to make part files for the #13 (XXL) drivers as well as thin train wheels in sizes #6, #7 and #9 (MS, M and L using the old naming convention). custom drivers for Studio by ScotNick1, on Flickr Also I created parts for the windows which are in develoment by Fx Bricks: Fx Bricks train windows for Studio by ScotNick1, on Flickr Here are the links for downloading the files: Train Wheels Train Windows Best is to download the whole folder as a package. I also included a text file with instructions how to add the parts to your custom parts library. Keep in mind that some of the dimensions might not be 100% correct, but they are pretty close and have always worked out for me so far While I didn't have any problems rendering the wheels I did run into problems rendering the glass panes of the Fx Bricks windows in trans-clear. Let me know if you run into any problems or struggle with adding the parts! Hope this will be helpful to you! Cheers, Nick

Thanks for the review! I do wonder about the actual pulling power with such a setup - could you gives us some info about the cars you pulled with the shown setup? How heavy are they and were they fitted with roller bearings? Looking forward to your further examination!

I tried to use the technique for wide radius curves by connecting straights at an angle to archieve a similar result (although the result is approximately 3 studs distance). Tried it only digitally though and am not sure how much play there is with the real tracks: Hope this helps! Cheers, Nick

First of all a big thank you to @michaelgale for bringing this great product to us! When I started into the hobby back in 2010 I got the Emerald Night without even having any track! I did get a few RC tracks at first, but soon I started to take a look at the second hand market to get cheaper rails. As a result of that the first full loop I built was already half 9v and half plastic. Just in regards to the R40 argument before - for me it was cheaper to get some second hand 9v curves rather than new or even used RC ones! Early on I thought the 9v system to be superior and deliberately decided to mostly invest in this system. Back then I wouldn't even have dreamed that the old 9v system would ever be produced again, but I realized that taking a look at the second hand market was eventually cheaper than buying new RC stuff. Being patient and waiting for a good catch was actually better for my wallet than investing in the all plastic RC/PF system! Now I'm sure times have changed and aftermarket prices have risen as well. But I just can't follow the whole "RC/PF/PU is cheaper" argument. It my look cheaper on the short run, but if you consider all the arguments and compare all the prices many differences even out. Unless you start to build a huuge layout I honestly think the prices don't really make a big difference - keep in mind, that for a comparison on the long run you also have to include all the battery costs and the many compnents needed (especially the new PU components, which are quite pricey). Probably the heaviest arguments against 9v have been the following: No straight tracks available at reasonable prices AND reasonable quantity Need to stick to the train motor to power your models And I have to agree on both! It was quite tiresome for me to get hold of the good number of 9v straights I have today! I think the double straights Michael offers really help here! And while I'm convinced that you can still get hold of individual Lego 9v straights for a cheaper price, including all the shipping costs from different sellers in the calculation changes the outcome quite fast! Now IMO the best argument against 9v are the many mocs of (powered) steam engines I have seen built in the last couple years. This is actually how I came to invest into PF as well, even though I decided on metal rails only early on. This flexibility to decide how to power your engines is something you can't compensate with money. And I think this is were I see a huge potential for the already announced power pick-up wheelset. Now I'm sure designing this weelset is already complex enough. But still, from a customer point of view, I'd like to see three features implemented to make it appealing for a wider audience: Some way to power the power pick-up wheelset itself, e.g. including a way to connect some gears to the axle to power it with a PF motor or similar. This would allow to motorize bogies that have a different wheel distance than the standard 9v wheelset, as well as building small shunters. Make the wheel cover a seperate part - the 9V cover just isn't prototypical for 99% of all models Have some kind of a spoked wheel version. In my opinion this, in combination with the point just above, is a key feature needed for powering steam engines using this wheelset. Now I know that Michael has to consider very deliberately about a product, but from a customer point of view I'd really like at least one of the points stated above to be considered! Of course everyone wants this endeavor to succeed! But let me say this: it's in our own hands! Even though the price may seem high for the product alone, I'd like you guys to consider that it's not the product alone you're paying for! You're paying for a whole line being developed and for the future of it! In regards to our hobby I think this is an investment that will pay off and help the hobby live on. Also keep in mind the many hours of labour already went into this without Michael having gotten anything in return. Having said this I'll definitely get those tracks. Not only because I get a high quality product in return, but because it is the biggest milestone for Lego train history since a long time in my opinion, and we can all be part of it! Cheers, Nick

Did start a GWR clerestory some time ago (although in 7 wide) and thought this wouldn't be so much different. Came up with something similar to what others have suggested: Just use some sort of hinges or plates with clips and handles to connect the angled roof. Hope this helps. Cheers, Nick

I don't think there's a common scale like 1:48 or 1:38 here in Europe. Most people do stick to either 7 wide or 8 wide, but as there are different lauding gauges thoughout Europe I think this is a bit difficult! However I'm sure most folks build inbetween 1:38 and 1:48, so just adding the metric dimensions to what the drivers relate to in those scales would help a lot as it already gives a rough idea for which driver to choose. I for example build roughly in 1:42 scale, and right now the chart wouldn't help out a lot. But if the metric dimensions for 1:38 and 1:48 would be added as well I could easily approximate what size the driver would relate to. Does this point make sense?

@supertruper1988 One question for the fellow "rest of the world" who uses the metric system - would it be possible to add the scaled diameters (1:38 and 1:48) in metric dimensions as well? Would make the chart a lot mor useful in my opinion!

If I remember correctly there are plans to have a European reseller - I think that's also in his own interest to better sell tracks in Europe. Keep in mind that such predictions often rely on factors which change in the course of time. There's a saying that fast things will never produce good things. I'd rather have a high quality product, that needs a bit more time rather than a product that has flaws everywhere (remember ME-Models tracks?). Especially in Covid times there are delays which can't be foreseen. I can understand that you'd like more information, but I for one think Michael has to choose wisely in which things to invest time - and I'd rather see his time invested in the actual product than in announcements about the product.

I'm sure he's busy getting everything straight, if you take a look at his Flickr photostream there's actually some news to see https://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelgale