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Found 81 results

  1. Since the 2018 Hogwarts Express (set 75955) is lacking in realism, (with the engine and tender in particular!) I decided to revise my custom version with ideas from the set, including printed 1x4 curve tiles with Hogwarts Castle printed on them. The locomotive is a heavily modified version of LDDModelmaker's Black 5 model with some parts from set 79111, Constitution Train Chase. The tender features a three wheeled bogie design modified from the one in Anthony Sava's ALCO MRS-1. The middle axle moves side to side, as to allow going through switches and curves without issue. The inside of the cab features two gauges and the firebox. In this false-color image, the red parts slide, the blue ones stay put to allow for the loco to go around curves and switches. (BTW: There are parts underneath that keep the sliding bogie from falling out.) The roof and side wall of each coach come off independently from each other, to reveal four seats for students and / or the occasional teacher. The Hogwarts Express is usually made up of four corridor BR MK I passenger coaches, although sometimes a special fifth coach is attached with an open floor plan. (however, in this Lego design, they are all open floor plan!) Also, the end car is not accurate to the films, but is what I prefer to the alternative: a gangway leading nowhere with no red light on the end. In-universe / Film History for the Hogwarts Express: Leaving from Kings Cross' Platform 9 & 3/4 to Hogsmeade Station at exactly 9 AM, the Hogwarts Express carries students (and sometimes faculty) to and from Hogwarts' School of Witchcraft & Wizardry in the Harry Potter series of books and movies. It has been seen in every Harry Potter film, from it's first appearance in the beginning of Philosophers Stone to it's (so far) last at the end of Deathly Hallows. (part two) The Hogwarts Express is usually only in the film for a short while, and it is generally a pleasant journey from Kings Cross to Hogsmeade, although Harry Potter, Ron Weasley and a certain Flying Ford Anglia might beg to differ! Hogsmeade station is the terminus for the Hogwarts Express on it's school-ward journey. This 100% fictional version of Hogsmeade station (as in, not based on any of the Harry Potter films) was inspired by several sets, chiefly sets 4554 (Metro Station) 41167, (Arendelle Castle) and 71044 (Disney Train and Station) from which I took the tower roof design, main floor general "look", and attic windows, respectively. (I was originally going to make this a generic European station, but then realized the Hogwarts crest 2 x 2 printed tile can fit just above what became the 1 x 4 Hogsmeade station sign on both the street and tracks sides.) The model is modular, and features a track side platform, ground floor, second floor, and tower roof. The street side features the same basic look as the other side, but in this case their is a staircase.... which could cause a problem for luggage trolleys as their is no ramp! Top floor features the Station master's office, which includes fixtures such as a desk, telephone, and some filing cabinets. This floor features the two ticket counters, indoor seating, and fireplace. Every floor & platform is grouped separately in LDD, as seen above. As usual, comments, questions, suggestions, and complaints are always welcome! EDIT 10/5/19: Hogsmeade station LDD model added. Real bricks coming eventually. (Hopefully soon!)
  2. Hi all, I recently went on a bit of a designing spree during my holidays and thought I'd share the results. I've been developing these models at a slightly smaller scale than usual (Hence 6-wide), but it's been a fun challenge and one I would like to develop into more actual models if I have the time. I thought i'd share them all at once as I didn't want to clog the forum xD MALLARD (LNER A4 Class) The first design I did of this scale and the only model I have physically made. You'll notice that the boiler is different from the render as those arch blue pieces are horrendously expensive. If you are interested I go into more detail about it in this MOC video on my Youtube channel. FLYING SCOTSMAN (LNER A3 Class) Classic design to follow on from. The wheelbase is copied from my Mallard build, which forms the base for all my pacific class designs. TORNADO (BR Peppercorn A1 Class) Developed this by tweaking the Flying Scotsman build. I know of better ways to do the smoke deflectors, but unfortunately the parts weren't available on LDraw. GWR HALL CLASS I developed this for a friend's Hogwarts Express build, but also as a bit of fun. With a couple of tweaks this could always pass for a King or a Castle. LMS ROYAL SCOT CLASS I think the front of this engine could be different if the parts were available, and I wasn't able to do the wheel arches, but I'm happy with the tender and the shaping of the cab. SR KING ARTHUR CLASS I thought i'd try and to an engine from each of the major British steam companies. The obvious one for Southern was a Merchant Navy or West Country, but I've already done a lot of Pacific engines. BR STANDARD 4MT TANK The one major drawback is that it isn't motorised. I've been considering making a motorised carriage that would not only move un-motorised engines, but help the bigger motorised ones around the corners better. That, of course, comes with its own set of drawbacks. THE FLYING SAUSAGE (LNER 10000 - 'HUSH HUSH') I wasn't lying in the title, this is such a wonderfully absurd engine that I had to try it. my only major niggle is the colour scheme, but I suppose experimental engines are hardly worth sprucing up. I hope you've found these MOCs interesting, I'd love to hear any tips, comments or suggestions for future builds! I'm planning on building the Flying Scotsman before long, then maybe a set of coaches. -Isaac
  3. Hello everyone, I have built a model of one of Britains classic race cars, the Bentley 4.5l ‘Blower’, a project that was never actually approved by W.O Bentley (company founder) but nonetheless took part in the 1930 Le Mans 24hr race and French Grand Prix where it finished second behind a much more agile Bugatti type 35. Its claim to fame was not through racing victory but through its racing stories. The model has working ‘worm and wheel’ steering and a removable bonnet to expose the 4.5 litre, 4-cylinder supercharged engine. Accuracy and realism was key right from the chassis frame and the parts were spray painted to give two new green colours. For more info and images please Click here to take a look at the project on Lego Ideas. Many thanks...
  4. I wanted to build a Mazda RX 7 FD ever since I finished the NSX...but a RX 7 needs a rotary engine... So I was forced to make one :) I have been working on this little guy way too long, and when I finally got it working today, I literally had tears in my eyes Its still WIP, but I am so happy right now. Hope you enjoy. Gray Gear
  5. lego engine 2 by michael waterfield, on Flickr lego engine 1 by michael waterfield, on Flickr lego piston head by michael waterfield, on Flickr About 2 months ago I started building said engine, single cylinder 4x4 bore 5 stud stroke (no glue), for the ignition I used a system made for model engines with magnetic based timing and powered it via the Lego rechargeable battery / wire from a dead motor. The first incarnation used gate style valves but they where sticky and lost a lot of pressure, so I switched to using technic caped axles through lego system which is amazingly air tight and looks/works like a real engine (4 valve total arranged in a flat head configuration). The valves originally had variable timing via two diffs but I later removed it not due to the resistance but retiming the engine every time got tedious fast (the ignition magnet was driven by the same gear train as the valves (1/2 from the crank, 12 tooth too 24). Now for interesting part the running, the area behind the valves is in a open top box and its this I spray the fuel into. O don't use solvent of any kind, with gas type lighter fluid lego holds up with no sigh of damage after a few minutes of inconsistent firing, but I ran out and due to crippling stupidity/laziness I just grabbed the next most flammable thing I had - a solvent spay. After less than 10 seconds firing on the starter motor (two xl gear up x5 about, 42 8) the engine slowed and when I opened it up both the exit valves had their caps melted and there was some waviness to the piston top. After replacing the axles and getting some more lighter spray I changed the flywheel from a geared up Unimog wheel to a aluminium pully about 8 cm across and 2cm deep. With this configuration the engine runs for a few seconds (yes without the starter connected) a few seconds after fuel is added no matter what I try I cant get the engine to run without these gaps in ignition, It seams like there is too much fuel and after a few cycles the fuels concentration becomes low enough for combustion, this is where I believe the most improvement can be made and yes I mean a working lego carburettor, or at least something better that my box method. While running the engine sounds like some of the first ic engines made, probably due to the bad burn and merely non zero compression. . Now I imagine most of you are curious how I got useable pressure containment and no hang-ups with a lego cylinder/piston without glue, gaskets or any modification to the lego , well unfortunately that is hard to explain even though it is ldr friendly its a bit unorthodox, but you can see in the pics. But during building the cylinder I put the piston in and blew in the other end and the piston went 4 feet across the room consistently. I plan to make a video as soon as I get more than a few seconds of ignition out of it (first running lego engine hello youtube gold). O and finally I made it four stoke due to it being easier to run at low rpms and my ptsd from nitro cars has yet to leave me. Any advice/interest? (hopefully I added pics correctly)
  6. Hello there! Even though TLC finally stepped out of using big blocky engines, the newest rendition of fake engines isn't very good. Mostly due to the ugly long brown axles and big "crankshaft". Now, it is possible to use the ovaloid-shaped liftarms as the crankshaft with 2l axles and half-bushes, but the entire assembly still occupies a lot of vertical space, specially the Ø3L crankshaft. Now, making something smaller with Technic pieces wasn't possible, so I resorted to System parts. 1x1 plates with 1x1 round plates were the solution looked for. Even though the "pistons" don't have much vertical movement, the engine still sounds great and both inline and v-shape setups can be made, theorically with infinite cylinders as the crankshaft isn't limited by maximum Technic axle length but by how many 1x1 plates can be stacked together. Advantages: Small volume - 3 studs vertical by 2 studs width Little extra space required - approximately quarter of a stud around the crankshaft (Technic axles can be placed alongside it) Produces sound as well as other fake engines V-shape or Inline engines possible Disadvantages: small vertical piston travel Crankshaft doesn't use Technic pieces so can be difficult to correctly space (stacked plates height vs Technic stud width) and might break if too long or abused too much Here's a video showing both setups and sound (e-motor is very quiet so the engine can be heard)
  7. Jeffinslaw

    [MOC] Southern Pacific 4-10-2

    The 4-10-2 wheel arrangement, often referred to as the Southern Pacific for the railroad which put it to use most successfully, was a unique design that utilized three-cylinders instead of the traditional two. In terms of steam locomotive evolution, it followed the 2-10-2 Santa Fe but the American Locomotive Company's (Alco) desire to advance three-cylinder technology proved somewhat problematic, at least for the Union Pacific (which referred to its roster as "Overlands" for its Overland Route main line). The SP on the other hand found their fleet quite useful and reliable in regular service and continued to use them for nearly 30 years until diesels finally took over. Hey guys! I wanted to share my completed model of Southern Pacific's 4-10-2 steam engine. I designed this model myself taking inspiration from brass models of the engine and techniques from various builders here on EB and Flickr. This model took me several months to design, build, and test but it is finally completed! The best part? You can purchase your own set of instructions to build the same model! Yes, that's right. Have all of those amazing BMR rolling stock and maybe one or two of my SP & UP PFE cars but no engine to pull it? Well now you can build an expertly modeled steam engine that will fit in with your rolling stock perfectly. Instructions can be purchased here: https://www.bricktraindepot.com/product-page/southern-pacific-4-10-2 The model is powered by two XL PF motors, and a AAA battery box in the tender. An SBrick is housed in the tender as well. Features side rods by @zephyr1934. This engine can haul a LOT of rolling stock. Was going to test with all 45 of my train cars here soon but I am positive it will work exceptionally well. Let's get on to some pictures! Southern Pacific 4-10-2 by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr Southern Pacific 4-10-2 by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr Southern Pacific 4-10-2 by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr Southern Pacific 4-10-2 by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr Hope you guys like it! Let me know what you think. -Jeffinslaw
  8. Hi! I haven't been very active here for a while, but I was busy "working" on some LDD models and revising them. Some of you might have seen them already on my flickr photostream. I also got to render my models for the first time Ok, I'll show you the pics My revised BR Standard Class 9F "Evening Star" I borrowed codefox421's coaches to try on the 9F (all credit for the coaches goes to him, here is the link to his topic: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=97927 ) I also revised my GWR 14xx, but that'll be part of another topic soon Then I also rendered and (re) designed some rolling stock: From top left to bottom right: Cattle Wagon Tank Wagon Well Wagon Vent Van GWR 16 Ton Toad Brake Van BR 20 Ton Brake Van (brown livery) BR 20 Ton Brake Van (grey and yellow livery) I also designed a water tower: and a modular train station. This is one section: You can make it bigger: and build a pretty decent station: The station has too many parts to be rendered And another station building: I hope you enjoyed it Comments and criticisms are welcome! Greetings, Nick P.S.: You can see higher resolution pics on my flickr: http://www.flickr.co...s/94645638@N07/
  9. These are typical "concrete" steam locomotive coaling and water towers of the mid-1900's for North America. Both models feature lowering chutes / spouts, for the imaginary fuel to flow down into the waiting engine below. (Which in this case is a 0-6-0ST switcher locomotive that has been built for some time. You can see it in it's own thread here.) For the coal tower, I was inspired by the website LGauge. However, unlike my more recent smaller versions of said tower, I have gone back to the larger 2014 version with it's odd-stud dimensions. This means it's a lot taller, wider and has a ton more pieces than before. It also has two chains to hold the new chute at the optimum height to clear the roof-top's of locomotives, while not being to high to look silly. The rear of the coal tower. The girders in the rear are supposed to "hold" a conveyor bucket system to get coal to the top of the tower to replenish the supply inside the structure. Of course, since it's Lego, this system is imaginary. With the brand-new water tower design, however, I was inspired by my Father's work with a smaller version of the same basic idea. I enlarged the basic dimensions dramatically and used castle wall-top pieces to boost the structural integrity of the now 14 stud-wide model. The rear of the water tower. What you see above is what you will get in the ldd file, which is available here at Bricksafe. It's a slightly older model, but all it's missing is the two 16-L chains and the two 32 x 16 base plates. Enjoy the file, and as usual: comments, questions or complaints are always welcome!
  10. Redimus

    Modified Emerald Night

    OK, so I have never made any secret that I think Emerald Night is crap. Odd proportions, terrible tender, complete lack of understanding of what several parts actually represent, looking *nothing* like the source material,.... I also know (from bitter experience) how difficult (and expensive) making a decent replacement is. After having built some really nice Pullmans, and building a disappointing pacific (which was miles better than EN), taking it apart, starting again, running out of inspiration, then getting made jobless so I couldn't afford to buy bits had I come up with an improved design, I decided to finally do something about my Emerald Night that had been sat in a corner with no wheels for at least 2 years. Things that I wanted to change: Give the front a footplate. Use the cylinder fix. Do something about that god awful (lack of) dome. Raise the cab so it doesn't look too daft with my coaches. Build a completely new tender (seriously, f**k that tender, that city cattle wagon was less lazy). Add lights and S Brick (which I had done a long while ago). So here are the results: Loco The new footplate, added tiles to the front bogie, replaced the green 1x6 plate with a black one, and the improved cylinder innards. New dome with S Brick underneath. Slightly raised cab. Tender The tender was a complete rebuild, but used basically the same chassis. It was however, a little lazy, and relied heavily on what I happened to already have. New Tender Completed Engine with Train. I intend to replace it with an actually good loco one day, but until inspiration and funds allow, this is a vast improvement.
  11. The last time this older 7-wide industrial saddle tanker steam loco design was seen in complete form in the real world was in 2014. I have since added working pistons and an "American" style headlight for use on my US layout. (These working pistons were inspired by Hunterdobb's 2015 replica of Lady from the Thomas and the Magic Railroad movie as seen here on Flickr.) The bulk of the original model was a ScotNick creation inspired by Thomas and Friends engine "Stanley". Here we see the @ScotNick engine circa 2013. The rear of the loco, with the "glowing" firebox showing. As you probably know by now, BRS (as stated on the tank sides) stands for Brick Railway Systems, my fictional railroad company. Anyway, I thought this engine looked cool, and I don't think there was a thread about it that was a stand-alone or at least recent enough to bump up and edit, since just added the pistons two weeks ago. As usual Comments, questions, and suggestions are always welcome!
  12. dr_spock

    MOD: 60052 Cargo Train

    I bought and assembled 60052 Cargo Train. The holes on the top of the engine bother me so I wanted to cover them up. I ended up making a bunch other modifications along the way: Added Power Function LED ditch lights Changed style of radiator grills Added air intake grills Added dynamic brake grills Moved fan #1 forward for dynamic brakes Moved fans #2 and #3 further back Added exhaust port Covered up unnecessary openings in the roof Changed to smaller sized horns Changed style of fuel tank Switched doors around so they are no longer suicide doors Added dual transclear stud lights to back Changed bley brack in front roof to black I guess it looks a bit like an EMD GP38 now. Please excuse my messy building table. 60052 MOD by dr_spock_888, on Flickr
  13. I had a spare truss bridge model lying around and thought it could use a revamp. Then I thought of the turntable I had designed, and realized it could use a transfer table companion model. Thus, this transfer table was finished just today. The whole table moves on four wheels at the edges and three guide-ways in the center. The model sits on four vintage 32 x 32 stud base-plates arranged in a square. I'm currently thinking about slicing up what's left of a gray 48 x 48 into a strip for the leading tracks to rest on. The height from the track to the top of the truss-work is a hair shorter than 13 1/3 bricks tall, which is tall enough for most locomotives but not enough for cabooses, extra-tall double stacked container cars and double-decker lounge cars. The length of the table is four tracks long, which is plenty for any of my single-unit locomotives or official LEGO models. (Diesel cab and booster units will have to be split up to fit, however.) In progress shot of me loading a 4-8-2 steam locomotive onto the table. Lining up the tracks as perfect as can be is key to keeping the loco on the rails and steady! Moving any loco sideways is easy enough to do with one hand... lining it up and rolling the engine off, however, needs steady two hands and a good eye. A better pic of it lined up at the shed track after unloading the steamer. Please NOTE: There is a two stud gap (and a bit of incline) between table and lead-in track: It is NOT 100% flat! Comments, suggestions, complaints, and compliments are always welcome!
  14. LegoEmbodiment

    Lego Pneumatic Engine

    https://youtu.be/UFPNWZeeXQw Lego Pneumatic Engine. What is it? How to make it? The first it needs to finish Lego fake cylinder like in this video https://youtu.be/HcHneyewATE or https://youtu.be/0aZvWva41Ek. The second - to add o-ring to Lego piston like in this video https://youtu.be/wZu-l32Dajw or .
  15. This type of geared type loco is called a "Shay" (specifically a type "A", which means two pistons and two trucks) and were named after their original inventor of the type, Ephraim Shay. These loco's could only go about 20 miles per hour (or about 32 Kilometers per hour, if that's your thing) at top speed, and were very steady on rough track, hauling logging and mining trains up grades that would easily stall conventional steamer types. You can read more about Shay geared steam locomotive's at Wikipedia. Please NOTE: The design of the original Shay I redid into my version was by Stephan Pakbaz over on Flickr, as seen below. (His LDD file allowed me to build my version) as seen here. The 1 x 1 tiles on either side of the coal bunker are supposed to be printed with the number "4" The Shay type only has pistons on one side, with the other side being kinda sparsely decorated. Usually, their would be various accessories and such on this side, but i liked it better devoid of any clutter. The Shay geared steam loco bends in a odd way... but at least it works. NOTE: The angle shown is quite a bit more severe curve than the loco will ever have to handle.... but it looks pretty cool! This raw ore car was modeled after a custom Brick Link item by @wildchicken13 except mine is narrower and uses two wheels for a Wild West flair. You can see the original item that inspired me here. The caboose follows my standard pattern for my Western trains, with only a few color swaps and a missing cupola on top to set it apart from the others. Here we see the mining train consisting of four silver ore cars and a caboose, without the Shay. This is my latest (and most likely last) Western styled train, and it will join my other four steamers and their trains in my Wild West collection sometime later in 2018. (The reason I say "last" is that I've run out of railroad-related ideas for my Wild Western layout and am planning on focusing on the updated Native American camp, revised Fort Legoredo and the remaining frontier town buildings after this.) As you may have suspected, the ore the mining train holds comes from my well-protected silver mine, which can be seen in it's own topic. ...and as usual, comments, questions, complaints and suggestions are always welcome!
  16. Here's my newest creation, digital format for now but I'll build it next month when I return from vacation. It's a whopping 7200 bricks not counting the landscape. Thanks to @PeterPNL for the landscape and minifigs and thanks to @maciej_drwiega for the door and window inspiration. Here's the .lxf if anyone wants it. https://bricksafe.com/pages/sed6 Hope you like!
  17. Hi After some fiddling I came up with this idea for a single crank W16 engine: Each crank uses a #3 connector to comepnsate for the piston offsets: And Finally the top view of the engine: Hopefully someone can build this baby in real life and provide feedback LDD file: https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/w16-engine/W16 engine.lxf
  18. Legotyres

    FWD Lego Model

    Hi All, im currently in the throes of building a transverse fwd Lego moc. It’s in its early stages at the mo, it it has an ultra 4 speed gearbox, engine and differential all mounted transversely. Ive still to do a bit of work on the gear selector to make it a little easier, but here’s a small video of it in its current state if if you see bits of your Lego Design in this model, thanks for the inspiration
  19. In the 42083 Bugatti hipe here is my throw at a fake W16 engine. I wanted it to be small and easy to install. I spent some time on it over the weekend and after some trial and error I got it working. It has more friction than a mini-V8, but I'm afraid that is inevitable. It all comes very precise. For the fake crankshaft I had to use mirrored cam-pairs, otherwise the sharp side of a cam piece would hit the piston under too much angle, which sometimes caused hick-ups. To make it run smoothly the pistons need a space of exactly the height of a flat plate, no more, no less. Also the end-stops of the 3L piston-axles are essential and the round sides of the bushes attached to the pistons need to face down. If it wasn't because of the mirrored cam-pairs, a half-cylinder offset in the piston-rows would have been possible . LXF-file here. EDIT: I reworked the mini engine into a 1:8 scale version. Slightly different configuration. If you build this: Be sure to level the bottom-ends of the 3L piston-axles with the bottom-ends of the bushes by pressing them against the flat side of a beam. Sink the piston-axle-end-stops all the way into the 12t gears. Make sure the round side of the bushes face down. Instructions can be found on Rebrickable.
  20. Hello Train peoples :) Here to you I present a Tank Engine I built some time ago. It is probably obvious enough what it's based upon :P It may not be much, but it was the first thing I built after my dark ages. Now, with no further ado, here are the pictures! Please excuse my poor camera quality :( The rods on the wheels are actually single track pieces. This side view shows how big the cab is, i'm not sure if the proportions look proper or not.. The Unexciting back view! The inside of the cabin is a simple firebox and 4x1 tile with controls on it. Another angle of it... And finally, here is a front view of the engine. I think it looks better with two headlamps, but that's just my preference. I think I prefer working in 8 stud wide engines more than the usual 6, which is what I used to do when I was younger. The main reason I put these pictures up is because i'm probably going to dismantle it in a few days to use the blue parts for some other creations. Please let me know what you think of it, or if you have any suggestions that could make this or any future engines I might build any better? There was a great steam engine that used to run through my back garden in the 1850's to the 1950's, recently a book was published on it, i'm considering recreating it in Lego form.. Axle
  21. Hello, I’m Kevin, 32 years old from Willebroek, Belgium. I’m now building a Castle themed setting which is nearly finished. My latest MOC is this Custom truck, I finished this in late November 2017. The car is based on a 1930 Ford Model AA truck with custom chassis, RWD drivetrain, suspension and several other details. I tried to incorporate as many technical details as I could. Since it’s brick built, those technical details don’t work, they are esthetical except for steering.. More on Flickr
  22. Bricksmith

    (MOC) - LNER Gresley P2

    Hi all, Embarked on this project after having a bunch of green wheels left over from giving my Flying Scotsman black ones instead. The P2's were built in the 1930's and designed by Sir Nigel Gresley. They went through many looks throughout their time, but the most unique and original was the one i've built below. All were scrapped, but two new ones are being built for mainline running! The first, No 2007 'Prince of Wales' is due to be finished in 2020, built by the same folks who built No 60163 'Tornado'. The build is 6-wide with Power Functions in the tender. I'm looking into ways of detailing it with stickers and prints in future! This started as a digital design, like many engines I build: A photo of the engine with my Scotsman and Mallard builds:
  23. This electric high speed passenger train was inspired by both 7745 (High-Speed City Express Passenger Train Set) from 1985 and 60051 (High-Speed Passenger train) from 2014. The train features two locomotives (with no motors in either), one club car and four coaches. The roof of each car comes off to get at the inside, and all but the locomotives have interior details such as tables and chairs. (The cab cars are supposed to have generators and mechanical details, but I couldn't make it look good so they were removed.) The cabs on the two locomotives have computer screens for the drivers, but the rest of the open space is empty. You can add in PF / or 9v motors to either (or both!) of the locos, but I did not due to my personal preference of hand pushing things around. This car is one of four identical ones that all have removable roof sections. The club car's top roof section is removable to get at the upper floor, but the lower section is not accessible at all. (I did try unsuccessfully to make it work. The LDD file for this model is at brick safe. Please note, the red of the train can be completely replaced by blue, if you wanted to give it some variety. Comments, questions and suggestions are always welcome!
  24. Please NOTE: There never was a Ohio Pacific railroad in the real world, but in my fictional universe, it never made it to the California coast, just to Denver, Colorado at it's western-most terminal with New York City being it's eastern-most point. As such, this locomotive is entirely fictional, with the paint scheme for the coaches inspired the real-world Missouri Pacific. This model was inspired by user @brickblues and his 4-6-2 Mallard-styled steam locomotive. My version of the engine is a 4-8-2, which means it has four leading, eight driving, and two trailing wheels, making it a Mountain type locomotive. The engine is streamlined with a blue shell around the boiler with tan and white stripes in places. The tender is supposed to say "Ohio Pacific" in printed 1 x 1 tiles, while the cab is supposed to say 6093 (also in printed tiles). The cab of the loco should features this print for the firebox door that is lacking in the LDD file. The baggage car features opening double doors for the baggage end and single doors for the passenger end. The three coach cars are identical with two opening doors at either end. The observation car features a open-air rear platform for looking at the passing scenery. This train is on the to-build list (which is getting longer all the time!) in real bricks. As usual, comments, questions, complaints, and suggestions are always welcome!
  25. I don't see many 4-4-2 Atlantic types steam locos around in LEGO, and even less orange-colored trains besides the TGV-like Horizon Express and SP Daylight 4449. This should fix both problems at the same time, and yes, it's build-able in this color in real life. The Atlantic type 4-4-2 (4 leading, 4 driving, 2 trailing) was the top-of-the-line express train hauler in the middle 1890's to early 1910's. Some continued right up until the end of steam in the Fifties, with the Hiawatha's of the Milwaukee Road hitting 100 MPH speeds daily with this wheel arrangement. The engine should have "3110" printed on it's cab and "GREAT WEST" on it's tender in 1 x 1 tiles. The cab of the loco with four printed gauges and the firebox door. Four identical passenger cars in matching orange paint-scheme are pulled by the Atlantic-type steam locomotive. The words GREAT and WEST are supposed to be printed on the 2 x 4 tiles on either side of the cars. Here you can see the whole train at once. I'm not sure when or if this loco and it's consist will be built, but if it is I will update this post here with better, real-world photos. LDD file available at this link here. As usual, Comments, Suggestions, Questions, & Complaints are always welcome!