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Found 15 results

  1. Hi guys! As some of you may know, I'm a huge off-road fan. I never really saw the potential in on-road, and sometimes found it boring. But then, I watched a few drifting videos and instantly saw the potential to make a LEGO drifter. I got in touch with my friend @N1K0L4, which is an on-road fan and has experience in the field, and sent me a couple of chassis designs. I obviously chose the most overpowered one You can check out N1K0L4's chassis here, and the full rebrickable post here. Now, let's go with the details: Features RWD with 2 BuWizz Motors Steering with a C+ L motor Realistic looking bodywork resembling Ken Block's Hoonitruck All fueled-in with a BuWizz 3.0 unit For me, one of the most important functions is the drivetrain. It's built in a very clever way with the 2 BuWizz motors leaving just enough space for housing the BuWizz 3.0 unit. It's RWD, which isn't true to the real-life counterpart, but N1K0L4 is working on a new version with AWD and it's looking very promising! updates about the AWD version will be made in this topic. To finish it off, the steering was added, using a rack and pinion setup to have as little slack as possible as that's a key factor in mini-racers. It's steered with a C+ L motor as said earlier, with this being my first time using C+ electronics. I have mixed feelings about it, but more on that later. The bodywork was an interesting one. I wanted it to be as accurate as possible to the real deal, but I had to use white mudguards as LEGO for some reason doesn't produce them in black. Still, they didn't spoil too much the body for it to be recognizable, so I'm happy with it. Still, it was somewhat flimsy and would tear to pieces if I hit a jump wrong. Still, N1K0L4 has also addressed this while still making it more accurate. I guess union makes strength For the video, I wanted to use a different setting in comparison to my other videos, as it's a very different model to the previous ones. I chose to go to a skate park, as it had some smooth concrete sections for drifting, and ramps to do some jumps, which is exactly what this model was built for. The model handled excellently in spite it's RWD, although I'm not used to models this fast, so I hit jumps wrong dozens of times. There are some included in the video, but many weren't included, but I'm considering making a bloopers video. How would you guys feel about that? However, the parts didn't like the skate park, as concrete is very abrasive to abs plastic. The splitter was melted and torn to pieces, and the tires lost most of their thread in the process, up to the point where I had to use to sets of them to record the video. I guess I'm a bit of an aggressive driver, but you should be aware of that if you build this model. About the C+ electronics, I'm not fully sold out. They do have some pros, like the more convenient shape of the motors or the faster response, but they show some disadvantages when taken into closer inspection. The steering trim was a pain to get right, and even when that was the case, it still veered ever so slightly to one side. I think it has to do with the fact that the 0 position is digital and not physical. Still, I'm considering using them in future build mostly because of the easier integration, but will probably stick to PF servos for faster models as they return to center more accurately. Feel free to post a comment about what your thoughts are about it, and see you in the next one!
  2. Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change)
  3. It's time for a new MOC. This time it's a buggy. It is designed to be decently fast (considering it uses only two L motors) It features Full suspension. The rear axle is a live axle, and the front features double wishbone with caster angle. Sadly I don't have any Real life pictures... But I made a video. You can also buy the instructions on Rebrickable. I made them with I added the cable in the instructions. More pictures can be found on Bricksafe.
  4. I really like many of P-Lego's MOCs. I wanted to build two of my favorites, the Lancia Stratos and one of the rally cars. Alas, I'm short on PF, so I thought I'd mix it up with alternate designs using fake engines and HOG steering. I present the Lancia Stratos alternate and the Rally Car alternate: The Lancia was an interesting challenge mimicking the original body while fitting a full-sized fake transverse V6, rear differential, and full suspension. I eventually gave up having a suspension on the rear and just went with the front (too little space). It came together in three separate pieces: front, middle, and rear. The suspension in the front has a lot of travel and a tight turning radius. Some of the proportions are different, especially the fenders in the front and the height of the rear trunk (had to make things fit). There is actually room in the front for a spare tire (in place of what would have been the battery box), but I didn't have one when I made the model. For the rally car, I wanted a full suspension with a fake engine and rear differential as compact as possible. It has a mini fake V6 in the front. This was built in two parts, the chassis with all the moving parts, and the body with the HOG wheel. The body attaches to the chassis with 6 easily accessible pins. When connected together, its a pretty sturdy connection. In theory, the chassis could fit to many alternate bodies. More images for the Rally car, Stratros, and both. Currently working on some instructions (LDD is quite a time sink). I'll post when I get around to it. Thanks for looking, and thanks P-Lego for the cool MOCs.
  5. Hello everybody! It has been a while since I posted a picture of two MOCs. In November 2016, I took those models and red Avtoros Shaman to Russia for participating in Lego event held in Moscow. It was an amazing trip. (You can see many pictures of the event on that topic.) When I drove two models in the event, I found that each one had some problems on their chassis. So I started to fix them after coming back to Japan. It took too many hours to finish despite of minor modifications. The reason was that I happened to come up with another 4x4 idea during the work. (I will take a month to finish it...) Anyway, I introduce two MOCs that helped me a lot to communicate with Russian builders. AWD Pickup "Dacoma" -Weight: 1090g -2x L motors for 4x4 driving with three differentials -Servo motor for steering -Two speed gearbox (manual) -Lockable center and rear differential (manual) -LED for headlights -Openable hood, doors with lock, tailgate The design was inspired by Toyota Tacoma. Also the strange name is an anagram of Madoca. It has independent suspension on front axle like many real pickup trucks do. I used hard shock absorbers on it because soft ones could not hold the weight even using two for each side. (There is the space left for extra shocks.) As a result, front suspension became a little bit too hard. The articulation of axles is mostly realized by softer rear suspension. The model was made to go over obstacles on tough trial course in the event. In some situation, locked rear differential helped it to avoid from getting stuck. But it really suffered from low ground clearance and small articulation. And the torque of geared down hard-coupled L motors damaged bevel gears in central diff. I concluded that it could be a decent off roader, but never be a crawler. I am making instructions. It will be available on Rebrickable. Hatchback Type R -Weight: 600g -L motor for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -LED for headlights -Front axle has positive caster angle -Openable hood and roof This small RWD Hatchback was made for speed racing of small cars. For propulsion, only one L motor was allowed to use by the regulation. The output is geared up 1:3 and meshed with old type differential gear. It is fun to drive on large and flat surface. I set front axle at positive caster angle for better straight line stability. But in real life, it did not work well. On the narrow race track, I could barely keep the model running straight. It had noticeable backlash on steering. Besides, controlling fast car via touch panel of smartphone was not easy. Although I fully enjoyed the race, my driving skill surely seemed shockingly bad to Russian builders! Building instructions available at Rebrickable!
  6. Here is a quick summary of a previous post. Right now I'm planning on a new project and I could use some help. It's a 1:8 scale model of Lexus' LC coupe powered by Lego Mindstorms EV3. Currently, I have the rear axle built off the instructions from the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set. I also made the engine for the LC500 on Lego Digital Designer and I am wondering if it is good enough to buy the pieces for it on BrickLink. I also want to add the following features: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Thank you.
  7. This is my first WIP post on EuroBricks where I will show my progress on my newest build, an EV3-powered 1:8 replica of Lexus' newest flagship coupe, the LC500. The car will most likely be a combination of both the standard and the V6 hybrid LC, but it will have a V8. The body will also be orange. Here's a photo I found of an LC that looks a lot like the one I am shooting for. Features I'm planning to add: Four or six-speed paddle-shift transmission Retractable spoiler Detailed interior Fake V8 engine (but I would like to achieve moving pistons) Full independent suspension All I built so far was the rear axle for the LC. It's exactly like the one in the Porsche 911 GT3 RS set but more reinforced. I also made the V8 engine using Lego Digital Designer. I plan to build the paddle-shifting mechanism used in Didumos' Ultimately Playable Porsche 911 GT3 RS (the one with the tilted wheel) and pair it up with a gearbox. I currently am having trouble whether to motorize his gearbox with the EV3 motors or to pick a different one with less gears and friction. I also am having a little bit of trouble finding the right front axle, though I like the one that Didumos put his Porsche because of the fact that is has two shocks for each wheel. However, I find it very difficult to fit the V8 engine in the middle since the axle is made for a rear-engine car. Here's a poorly drawn render I made of what I'm trying to achieve with the front axle. And here's the chassis in the real LC and the measurements for the LC Lego model. Overall, I'm excited about the build. I would welcome some helpful comments about the V8 engine, axles, and the gearbox I planned to use before I order pieces on BL. Once I start working on the body and aesthetics, I would appreciate some input with that as well. I can also give you the download for the .lxf file of the engine if you'd like to check it out. I look forward to replying to your comments and sharing my progress. Thank you.
  8. This is my simple Lego car chassis for Mindstorms and Technic beginners. Features Rack-and-pinion steering Full independent suspension 1:3 gear ratio driven to rear differential I built this chassis as both an experimental project but also an educational one to not just me but people starting to make their own cars with Mindstorms and Technic. If you're looking for a chassis design that may work for the build you're creating (a sports car, sedan, or small truck) then I hope this helps you and I would look forward to seeing the finished result.
  9. In the era of dust, sand and rust there is no place for shiny and glossy supercars, decorated with chrome, carbon fiber and aluminum. Only one thing matters - durability. Any large enough scrap of metal that you find in the wasteland can harden your car and give you a few more minutes of life. But some cars, assembled from bits and pieces in garbage pits, still remain a work of art, reminiscent of a past life. I'm glad to present you my new mod of Madoka's Icarus supercar. Driven with 2x buggy-motors, it has minimal chassis changes, except upside-down portal hubs on rear axle. Model utilize about 10 metallic and pearl colors plus some unusual for Technic series, like tan and reddish brown And here is comparison with original model made by @Madoca 1977 You can see full gallery here I'll try to make some video in "desert" for fun, but don't sure about how soon it will happen. Hope you enjoy my mod! I will be glad to hear comments and suggestions about model!
  10. Hello everyone, I have started a build on a Green Raid Buggy. Current features include- -RWD (direct, no gearing) with two L-Motors -Steering with Servo -Front double wishbone suspensions -Rear Uni-trailing axle suspension with ball joint connection and s -Beginnings of bodywork Brick Safe: As always, advice, thoughts, and comments are much appreciated. -Myers Lego Technic Pic of the rear lights Pic of the rear lights
  11. Hello Everyone! I'm back with a nice little MOC that i built a couple days ago. I actually first built it last year but never had the time for pictures, so I rebuilt it from my memory. It has rear wheel drive via one buggy motor and 20t/diff gear combo. It has all wheel independent suspension-since I wanted the front and rear width to be the same, the rear isnt double wishbone. It's extremely light and has servo steering. All powered by one of my 10 volt batteries. I had to use some interesting bracing techniques in order to connect and strengthen the whole car with as little pieces as possible, but I couldnt find a simple enough way to brace the front suspension to the chassis so in a hard crash the front axle may come off. Pics: ^it gets quite dirty after prolonged outdoor use the front bull bar (same one from the 8048 buggy set) bends inward during a front end hit, so it definitely helps protect the car if it loses signal from IR receiver: In order for weight saving I used flex axles, which give a nice tight grip around the battery: Money shot suspension showcase ^when resting the rear suspension has neutral camber, when it is raised it has slight positive camber, but when leaning into a turn and it compresses, it has negative camber, which can actually help handling a bit: overall it has good ground clearance for its size, which allows for good performance on bumpy asphalt and light offroading, but for offoading it relies on wheel speed rather than low speed torque driving outdoors and through fresh rainwater puddles eventually collects dirt and water, which can get into places where you don't want it... ^but luckily dirt will fall of after a good shake once it has dried and water, as long as it is fresh rain/streamwater won't ruin motors/connectors, only pool/saltwater/grimy water will mess up motors, but I made sure the battery stayed dry And here's some burnout/drift shots: my new desktop background: ENJOY!
  12. Rally Racer is the successor of Rally Rac3r. The difference? This Rear Wheel Drive race car is a tremendous success. As complimented by Karl4123, this vehicle has "sleek and stylish looks." It is geared up 36:12 or 3:1, and it is decently quick with decent torque. Many styling cues have been added. Why is there no InfraRed Sensor, you may ask! Well, thank you for asking! With the help of Builderdude35's tutorials, Rally Racer drives via Bluetooth! Rally Racer's Intelligent Brick acts as a receiver, and a second Ev3 Intelligent Brick is the remote! In this way, I am able to control Rally Racer from 200 feet away. Rally Racer features twin dual exhaust. The taillights feature vents which mimic the outsource of airflow, similar to that of the Ferrari 488 GTB. The spoiler is a low, lean downforce-inducing wing. The headlights are a twin-cluster with a main headlight and an auxiliary tinted light, not including the rally style fog lights. The chassis is extremely compact in and of itself. I borrowed the drivetrain design from Builderdude35's Falcon FAV100, so thanks! Two Large Motors drive a 36z gear which drives a half-bevel 12z gear (these are encased about an H-frame). It then transfers drive both to the front and rear of the robot. There is a differential which transfers power to the rear wheels, while the front axle extends to the front of the car as a neat auxiliary cue. The rack and pinion steering setup is controlled by a Medium Motor, and stabilized with a LEGO rubber band. Check out the metallic exhaust tubes while you're at it! Please comment if you have any questions or... comments. I appreciate any feedback whatsoever. I am quite please with how this turned out, especially when comparing this with my original Rally Rac3r model.
  13. Good Day ! While I am still waiting for my extension wires and test pipes(for my RC motor powered centrifuge), I decided to build a trophy truck. I know there are a lot of racing version out there and I thought I could come up with something new. a cop version. It shares almost the same chassis with my previous desert patrol buggy(http://www.eurobrick...=139391&hl=) and it's powered by 2 L motors as well. In addition, there's a blower(twin screw type) attached to the V6. Update: It's raining again I guess I have to wait for another couple of days to make a video...sorry.
  14. Four wheel drive on Lego Technic cars with small wheels is hard to realize, as they become relatively too wide (which is ugly) and the ground clearance is also compromised. The problem then is: how to get the same grip back with only rear wheel drive? Then you need to push something 'extra' in the back of your already crammed, small nice-looking vehicle... This concept is an approach to keep this 'something extra' as small as possible while giving awesome and unexpected grip to the car. (At least, I was astonished by what it achieved!) Instead of typing a lot, I've put it all into a video with the theory of how it all works at the back of the video to let the 7 billion minus 1000 viewers that are not interested into more advanced Technic stuff experience how it works in practice on a 2 cm (that is: inchy) thick ice floor. As for the car, it is built from Power Functions spares as all my L-motors (which have quickly become the main workhorse for every Technic builder) are ehm... in use. That is why you find me using a geared up XL motor, which gave me memories of the good old times when the poor knob wheel parts splattered around. Sharp images of the car and mechanism explanation can be found on: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=564319. On MocPages (beware, there is a piece of code there that simply destroys anything such as image resolution on .png files...) http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/428881 Video: I finally have found PovRay so (with many thanks to all those who make that software) I can present a high-quality render:
  15. Hi everybody! I want to share with you my new work. I love the buggy and I want to develop this area, so I would like to hear your opinion about what I did. Meet - Desert Fox More information and photos here