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About PorkyMonster

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  1. LOL why did u bother to reveal your age? After all, people here won't care if you don't act like a kid. You and I belong to the same breed... from one of the endangered species... so to me, your idea is perfectly normal! I have similar ideas, only that I plan to include Arduino for transmission control (i.e. automatic transmission) and I'm targeting for perfect steering geometry, in my next build. Don't give it up if you still have the passion... just do it slowly, like I'm doing now (not just budget, but also the need for time to figure out how to solve certain issues to do with high rpm). Granted, not many appreciate our ideas and ideals, but we do it to challenge ourselves!
  2. Distance between each parallel sides is 17mm, while diameter (as in your qn) is 19.63mm. Note that the round hole through the middle is about 12mm diameter.
  3. I'm bored, and I want to go into something that can evolve/modified/rebuilt over time.
  4. Nah... can't conclude whether he has used the full potential of his motor without the KV figure and the Lego gears he used in the entire drive train. Your motor looks OLD... and should be brushed... and if it fits well within Lego's XL motor casing, i would say just go ahead and hook up and test... after all most motors can take higher voltages than what Lego battery box can supply.
  5. Chanced upon this video while browsing youtube just now... I'm not in any way promoting the use of 3rd party parts () here (it's individuals' tastes after all), but I thought this video pretty much gives a rough gauge to all of us what pure Lego, when combined with brushless motor (i.e. no lubrication, no bearings, no other metallic 3rd party hobby-grade RC structural/mechanical components), can do... how Lego parts (especially differentials and universal joints) survived at such speed, for a roughly 1 kg model (my own model weighs 3 kg and if I accelerate it hard, the rear-front-middle differential and universal joints will complain)... and the control range to be expected using rc-grade transmitter/receiver. and if the speed claimed is accurate, the 68.8 mm wheels would have to be spinning at close to 6k rpm - depending on weather conditions this is probably the top limit before Lego axles melts (this limit will go down the heavier the model is).
  6. "faster" is a relative and subjective term, much like the word "purism". end of the day it is our very individual definition of playability, and our willingness to "venture out" as opposed to working with familiar stuff, that really matters... So it would help if you could state down your comfort level in terms of using non-lego parts. having said that, based on what you said, this might interest you: here (in particular, the part on changing out the motor).
  7. On second thought, I think Buwizz IS easier to integrate THAN SBrick & pure PF... so here's the revised chart, with price estimation added...
  8. Looks like there is a solution to suit people of different tastes , each with its own pros and cons.
  9. This is by far the strongest solution I've come across that still fit the 1x1 cross-sectional size. But I don't quite like the amount of drillings and cuttings . So far, I've tried larger solutions - either with Lego pulley wheels, or with brass-joints measuring 12x24 mm (and 5mm holes that fits an axle nicely). With the brass-joints, I would do what @z3_2drive did - made use of the tiny screws, but applying glue additionally, to make sure they don't unscrew themselves out over time. What I've experienced so far is that Lego axles are VERY STRONG, so long as you take care of their rpm and friction - make sure they turn freely, and limit rpm to below 4k (max 5k), so that they don't get the chance to heat up and turn soft.
  10. To most of us, Lego-ing is just a hobby, and hobby changes over time as we grow up or age. However, with the pieces lying around, we can always get back when the interest returns .
  11. Right... for off-road, and at 7kph, its fine that there is slight toe-out and little caster. In fact, one can easily get away even with negative caster (like so many Lego MOCs before... LOL). I actually thought you were gunning for higher speed and on-road when you used 4 motors, queried about Buwizz, included caster, and so on... haha... my bad.
  12. IMHO, its a pity that the design does not allow for a gearbox, and there is no space for gearing up the wheels individually... because, based on my calculation, it can only go up to 7 kmh , based on wheels of 94.8 mm diameter, and the maximum 390 rpm that PF-L motor can do at 9 volts (slightly more for buwizz at 10 volts)... One real issue I see is that of the toe-out - because you don't have other geometries like caster (ok, you have 5 degrees... which is rather negligible and can easily be canceled out by your toe-out) and kpi as well... so driving this buggy in a straight line may be challenging.
  13. As mentioned by @TechnicSummse, I was only referring to the doubling of propeller just to achieve redundancy in case one of them drop off far from shore... unless you're thinking of something like this (then you'll have no problem with space and buoyancy):