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Found 55 results

  1. One of the questions that pops up here on a fairly regular basis concerns the maximum distance between axles without binding or derailment becoming an issue. On a couple of occasions I have mentioned the Castering Effect and it's possible application to the LEGO railway world. Having raised the possibility I thought I should find out for myself what use it might be and to see whether I could harness this effect and see what it might be made to do. And so I set about building myself some prototype vehicles and a test track and got to work. This is the test vehicle I designed. It's a bit of a "parts bin special" but it does the trick. In the light of the lessons learned the test vehicle design was changed slightly and then retested. There is still much more work to be done with more prototypes and testing, but I'm hoping to come out with some sort of working MOC at the end of this process. I appreciate that there is rarely anything new under the sun and that I'm probably just replicating someone else's work. Comments welcomed as always. **EDIT** By the way, those black boxes are video links.
  2. Hi All! Often a "reader", now a "poster", i´ve got a problem i cant fully wrap my head around. I try to keep a steering axle straight while going through a pivoting point or turntable. The axle should rotate with the pivot (eg in the picture below the yellow bricks should always align with the grey liftarms even if the liftarms are at 90 degrees of each other) but i want to rotate it manually on one side, with the rotation + offset of the pivot on the other side. Like the axle itself would have been twisted. The furthest ive got with this is pictured below and works as long there is no friction on the left output. I want both sides to rotate at the same time, but if you rotate the pivot/turntable then it should add just an offset "within" the axle. I dont know if this is actually possible or how to split the axle in two, add the pivot rotation to one part and then add both rotation together.
  3. I think anyone who ever used the portal hubs came to this issue. The hubs simply have the steering pivot point so far from the center of the wheel, that you need to either reduce the steering angle, or have a model with large fenders. Today I came up with this simple mechanism to compensate for that by simply turning the whole front axle in the opposite direction. The two tilted 6L links are usually used to keep the axle from moving forwards/backwards. In my case they are attached to the steering rack at a high angle. Moving the steering rack will cause the geometry of the axle to change - rotating it to (mostly) compensate for the large pivot point: Of course this is just an idea for now, but it should be easy to implement on a real model. The wider the axle, the better the compensation. Of course the axle has to be designed in such way, that suspension, drive and steering system will be able to work with this degree of movement.
  4. Dear folks, Don't know if this forum is in need of 'yet another AWD front steering', but decided to post it anyway since it may have some interesting features to share: - Compact 5 stud high modular design - Strong, double suspension per arm - Embedded cross block, to prevent bending axles - Adjustable steering arms to enable toe-in and toe-out (and as a side effect, prevents damage when crashing) - Ready for (2.4 GHz RC) servo steering ;) I needed a flat front module to fit my chassis, but didn't want to use the 'old' 3 stud high Wheel Hub (50301). It simply has too much friction in the turns and breaks too easily. Furthermore I wanted to use the universal joint (61903) in stead of the cardan cup (92906). Since I'm putting significant torque on these joints, and it turns out the universal joint is much stronger. However, this does requires the wheel arms to pivot 1 stud wider than using the standard config. Using the 5 stud high 11949 front wheel bearing and bound to a maximum height, I needed a way to fit suspension within this height. Very happy with the result. Anyway, have a look if you're interested. Happy to hear if anything can be improved.
  5. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] Unimog 437

    I guess you could say I couldn't make up my mind about the kind of Unimog I wanted to make next. So I decided to make a platform that would support multiple versions. Features: Interchangeable platform Long and short wheelbase options Standard and Doka cabs, removable Manual control PF control (drop in) Front and rear suspension Steering 4x4 with I-4 fake motor Opening doors and hood Tipper bed options Feel free to check out to learn more about the build. Manual SWB with tipper bed. Manual LWB Doka with tipper bed. Power Functions (XL drive, Servo steering) LWB with cover. Manual LWB with canvas bed showing the suspension travel. You can find more pictures on my flickr. I have been adding instructions for the various versions here, and more will be added over the coming weeks. Someday I'll make a camper, because, everyone needs a camper. This was a fun project, and I loved the way it turned out. I have the LWB on my desk right now, and I keep getting distracted from work. I hope to add additional options for the system at some point, and will take other suggestions for versions to add. Hope you enjoy.
  6. Thirdwigg

    [MOC] CAT 914k

    I have been working on this project for what seems like forever. I'm happy to have it done. The full gallery can be found here. Much more at Full Lift With TLG Balloon Tires Chassis
  7. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  8. Hi, I'm getting the parts together for the Avtoros Shaman 8x8 MOC It requires 8 of the 11949 Technic, Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Ball Joint Arms. The current price of these on BrickLink is around €12 each, and has risen sharply in the past few months. I was wondering if it would be possible to use the 23801 Technic, Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Axle Holes and two Axle Towballs. It looks like it would work based on the models in LDD. Has anyone tried this on a model? Here is an example of how they are used in the Shaman build:
  9. This is ASSAULT3R, a Lego Mindstorms EV3 Assault Vehicle. After getting a second Lego EV3 set, I knew that I had to build something awesome. Features RWD and Steering Ultrasonic Sensor Infrared Sensor Two Color Sensors Dual Ball Shooters Gullwing Doors Detailed Interior and Exterior The ASSAULT3R's front sports red lights that will strike fear in enemies and their machines. Its dual ball shooters will shoot a total of six Lego balls, three for each side, high or low. That's twice the weaponry used by EV3RSTORM. The gullwing doors allow easy access for operators and it makes the ASSAULT3R look futuristic yet sinister. I had a lot of fun building this, and I'm very happy with the result. And of course, here are some photos as always.
  10. Hi folks, This is not for purists. Contains modified and non-LEGO parts. My urge to build a super fast LEGO RC Car often stopped at the stage where the body needed to be build. Seeing all the great designs on forums like this, it somewhat discouraged me building my own. Besides the fact that these bodies come with some weight and will not hold a crash a higher speeds, I had to come up with something else. As a result of an earlier project (building a fast LEGO boat) a had some damaged LEGO Hulls (54779). Since a car body works basically the same as boat hull (but 180 degrees rotated), I thought I'd give it a try. Have a look at the result in the YT video. It works fine. Gives strength to the car, the aerodynamics work well for good driving stability and it is not that ugly :) Called it The LBOW (Lego Boat On Wheels). Included standard RC components: ESC, brushless motor, 3s Lipo battery, digital steering servo and .... a Gyro. Resulted in a very fast RC Car. Theoretically this should be able to reach 100 km/h. Speed test will follow (need to find a good track first). For those trying to do similar things, I'd strongly recommend to add the Gyroscope to your car. It prevents the car from breaking out at higher speeds. Very useful.
  11. 17Liftarm

    Dead Font Axle

    So most everyone i've seen likes to add drive to their front axles. I'm having trouble building a dead front axle for my truck. I'm no good at steering geometry either. Here's what i've come up with so far. Right now it works for what it is, but could use improvement. If anyone has any ideas or links, please share. I'll try to add some pics.
  12. Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home.
  13. Hello, I was watching Nicjasno's videos and some questions arosed. Let's say I have front SLA double wishbone suspension, no drive, lower arm is 6 studs long, upper arm is 5 studs long, there is a kingpin inclination and caster angle. I want to have ackermann steering and avoid bump steer. Where should I put the steering arm and how long should it be for steering rack ahead of front axle or behind it? Should it be 6 studs long when it is closer to the lower arm and 5 studs long when closer to the upper one? And another situation - let's say I have multilink suspension - two angled upper links and two angled bottom links, bottom ones are longer, there is also a kingpin inclination and caster angle, no drive. The question remains the same I will appreciate your advice ! Thank you in advance.
  14. It seems like all of my MOCs are being finished during the month of March. I present a Large Scale version of the Kalmar 180-9 forklift. I started this MOC last July, and after completing a number of other distractions, it's done. I'm please with the result. All pictures may be found on Flickr. The MOC features: Dual Stage Lift, PF L Forklift Tilt, PF M Steering, PF Servo Drive, PF XL Opening Doors Removable bodywork The lift is able to move three AA PF battery boxes (~600grams) to the height of 39 studs. Much more at Photo Photo 2 Lift Chassis Open Enjoy, and happy building.
  15. Everything started with front axle, where wheel steering center is at wheel center. As it is almost impossible with existing parts, had to "cheat" and create something like multilink. As there was chassis, built some body on it
  16. So yet again, I have set myself up for disappointment by entering the 2017 Rebrick Technic challenge. My future BMW motor cycle is a streetfighter concept that has dual single sided swingarms with suspension, and steering on the front. Much more at Full picture album can be found on Flickr. com.
  17. Hello everyone! This time the challenge was to create a steering mechanism with suspension as small and compact as possible. Together with some other techniques and the usage of a technic chassis, this humvee was born! And i will share the concept of the mechanism: More photos If anyone wants, ill upload an LDD file later.
  18. Here we go, another refuse truck. Features: drive steering 2 cylinder motor opening doors tilting cab opening hopper bin lift compaction cycle extraction plate Video is . Much more at
  19. Like a Rolling Brick

    Parts #2738 and #32195b

    Hi there, I'm ready to submit an order for some spare parts but I can't understand the difference between two parts that seem almost identical to me: I'm referring to #2738 and #32195b, Technic, Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Squared. The first one older and is named Un-Chamfered, the second one is relatively newer and is named Chamfered., Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Squared, Un-Chamfered&category=[Technic, Steering]#T=S&O={"cond":"N","rpp":"500"}, Steering Arm 6.5 x 2 with Towball Socket Rounded, Chamfered&category=[Technic, Steering]#T=S&O={"cond":"N","rpp":"500"} Which is the difference? When building a MOC, are they interchangeable? Thanks in advance.
  20. After a little tinkering, I managed to create this self-locking differential. It locks when the car goes straight and unlocks when turning: A set of 12t gears are connected to the steering rack. When the rack is in the middle (and the car going straight), the two halfshafts are coupled together, locking the differential. When the rack moves to the left or right to steer the car, the 12t gears disengage with the 20t gears and let the differential act like an open diff: The main downsides I see with this setup are that the differential may stay locked during wide turns with small rack movement and the width of the axle is increased. A standard independent suspension with a differential and 68.8x36 ZR wheels (the combination I usually use) is 25 studs wide; with this feature it increases to 27.
  21. Thirdwigg

    [PORSCHE] 714

    My dream Porsche lives in the spirit of the 914 and the 924: A compact, lightweight, mass-market, rear-wheel-drive sports car. It has a long hood, short overhangs, and a roofline that alludes to Porsches of today and yesterday. Much more at, and the full Flickr gallery may be seen here. Features: Boxer 4 Engine with optional Boxer 6 Engine Rear Wheel Drive 6 Speed short throw manual transmission Limited slip differential Front short/long arm wishbone Steering geometry (caster, ackerman) Rear short/long arm suspension Tilt steering wheel Opening doors Opening hood Internal roll cage The two engine options And the Chassis Hope you all enjoy, and good luck to all the contestants.
  22. Hey, Recently I have been trying to build a 4wd desert buggy with independent suspension on all wheels. My problem is that I'm not succeeding in creating a strong front independent suspension with steering. I know there are online a lot of guides and stuff, but they wont work for my 9 studs long suspension arms. Does someone know how I can do this efficiently and strong? I use the unimog wheels and I dont have the front wheel bearing with two knuckels. It would be much appriciated if someone can help me with this. greetings, Nanoscript
  23. I was wondering if these parts: Could connect with this part: I want to know if we can use these wheel hubs for smaller wheels that don't have those 3-pin connections, such as these:
  24. The inspiration for this MOC is my (now-sold) ’92 Toyota 4Runner, video here: This is my first-ever studless build, as I used to build a lot with Technic about 16 years ago, but have just recently revisited the hobby. The model is assembled from three sets: 8110, 9398 and 42000. I don’t have enough shifting ring parts to make everything work as I’d like it to, so this model will get revisited once I pick up a few more sets and can motorize shifting, add a central transmission diff (for 2wd, 4wd and 4lo), and figure out how to get better gearing for the main motors. The model is powered by two PF-L motors hard-coupled to a single output shaft. Power goes into a Sariel-inspired 4-spd transmission, before being output both front and back (due to lacking the parts for a central diff) for a permanent 4wd system. There’s a diff at the front, and a (manually) locking diff at the back. Front suspension is an IFS setup and comes mostly from 42000, and steering is performed by a PF-M coupled to a clutch gear to prevent tooth grinding at full lock. Rear suspension is again Sariel-inspired for a live-axle setup. Tires are 1.9 Axial Maxxis Trepador on Unimog rims. (Current axle articulation is fairly accurate based on what I experienced with my 4Runner.) The chassis is about 25 studs wide with about a 43 stud wheelbase. Overall model length should be about 60 studs which will be more-or-less in proportion to that of the actual vehicle. Current chassis weight is 1759g. The suspension settles a bit, so I’m a little worried that once I add the body it will be too compressed, but that’s something to tackle for later! More pictures at: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=539844
  25. BuildSnapPost

    [HELP] Building a Truck

    Please Help me! I am making a LEGO truck, and I was wondering whether it is possible to build a vehicle with two suspensions like this. : 1. 2. Firstly, would it work if I have two of these style of suspensions and; Secondly, would it work if i have them without shock absorbers to return the wheels level in reference to the vehicle. Thanks, BuildSnapPost.