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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all, I've got something cool to share with you. I've been planning how to tackle my next 9v layout where I want to control multiple trains on a interconnected set of loops. On a regular 9v layout, you cannot do that. This is my solution: It's a 9v motor with the motor taken out, feeding into a bridge rectifier (into the A/C connectors) so that the output polarity is always the same. Then from there it goes into a step-up converter set to 10v output (track power is ~12v, but a bit lower on the frog). From the step-up converter it's connected to both a TCS KA3 keep alive and a PFx Brick. The keep alive ensures that the PFx Brick stays powered (and keeps the motors running) if power suddenly cuts out very briefly. Let me explain why that is important: For the reversing loop I'm using a TCS dual frog juicer. Basically, the "loop" part of the reversing loop is an isolated section of track, which we'll call the frog. You connect track power to the dual frog juicer input and connect the output to the frog. When the train drives from normal track onto the frog and the polarity of the frog is "the wrong way round", then it will automatically switch the polarity of the frog. This happens very fast, but it's enough of a delay when going into the bridge rectifier and then into the PFx Brick that the PFx Brick shuts off and turns on again, effectively stopping the train. That's where the keep alive comes in! Demonstration: (watch the indicator LED change between red/green, this means polarity gets switched) 1.mp4 2.mp4 In the demonstration I used a PF remote. For my layout I'm going to be using Vincent Vergonjeanne's fantastic piece of software to control the PFx Brick with a Powered Up remote using bluetooth. That way I can control every train even when they are going through a tunnel for example. Here is the full post about the software: [link] I hope you found this interesting :) Thanks to Lazarus992 for the tutorial on how to open up and remove the 9v motor
  2. Hi all, ever since the original 12V motor of my 7760 burnt out, I've been looking for a suitable replacement motor. I could have fitted a PF train motor, but my wishlist made it a bit more complicated: - power pickup from the 9V tracks, as all my trains run on DCC - 3 axles - moving siderods - minimal modifications to the original locomotive I decided to fit BigBenBricks medium wheels with custom-made aluminium 'tires', and use Zephyr's custom rods for the finishing touch (I haven't had time to apply the stickers yet, but they do look great JopieK!). The part holding the wheels is essentially plug-and-play: it has the exact same shape as the old 12V motor bogie 7760 with BBB medium wheels by alainneke, on Flickr The locomotive is powered by an old-style 9V engine (http://www.bricklink....asp?P=43362c01), which was the only motor I could squeeze in without rebuilding the whole thing: 7760 with BBB medium wheels by alainneke, on Flickr 7760 with BBB medium wheels by alainneke, on Flickr (the missing brick on the back allowed for an external power source, which is no longer needed: I've fixed it since taking the pictures) Power pickups by alainneke, on Flickr Here you can see one of the pickups. The locomotive is equipped with 4, so it can cope with the dead spots on a switch: Power pickups by alainneke, on Flickr ... and to show you that it really runs: EDIT: now with stickers applied: Finished! by alainneke, on Flickr Thanks for watching!
  3. I thought some may like these. All 3 models are still works in progress, just really with a few finer details and stickers to be completed. The one thats been the biggest pain due to the smoke unit: Class 37, using a SWD Loksound V4 chip and fan assisted smoke unit: Work in progress set: Class 55 Deltic: Work in progress set: Class 27: Work in progress set: And finally, one of all 3 :)
  4. Bricktrix

    LEGO DCC LMS twins

    Hi all. Thought I'd put this up here, as whilst its a bit of an update on these models, http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=82560 its a different topic considering the operation and tech thats been involved. So after many many weeks of experimentation, trial and a lot of error, we finally have both locos fully operational using DCC soundchips and control. The idea was to implement the DCC soundchips into the LEGO locos, but then use LEGO DC controllers to opperate them. In principal, that does give some of the basic sound functions, but the logistics and problems involved during this experiment has resulted to using full blown DCC Controllers. It just made sense to go that route given the options available in comparrison to loosing many features if using standard DC control, plus the route I will be taking with other LEGO engines in the future having more with soundchips, will make my whole display easier to opperate. We had a lot of initial problems with gaining smooth slow running operation, but persistance has prevailed and now either alone or both of these engines together (in consist) have very smooth low speed operation and are capable of pulling a heavy rake through curves at the lowest speed settings, through to the heighest, so I'm very happy :) We have managed to sync the engine sounds to the speed of the motors, although a little more fine tuning should get them even better, the same with the braking sounds, so below are a couple of test videos to show how they opperate. We still also need to wire all the lights in and sort them out correctly. For those who wish to know the techy bits, the soundchips are Loksound V4's and they are being controlled by an NCE Powercab with 5 amp supply system. Highest track draw has been upto 1.9 amps under full load with 2 locos in consist, using many of the function features which all add to the draw. I'm pretty sure the blue Pullman will be next on the list, although as thats another diesel, I may try a steam one next in something like my Castle class. The goal is to get these all perfected for this years STEAM show in October. Carl