Duq

Eurobricks Knights
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    995
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About Duq

  • Birthday April 15

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Trains

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dublin
  • Interests
    Chocolate!

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  • Country
    Ireland
  • Special Tags 2
    http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ebindex/tags/train4.gif

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  1. Duq

    Need help building train chassis

    You will find many Lego Train MOCs and building techniques on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/groups/legotrains/pool https://www.flickr.com/groups/legotrainideas/pool
  2. Duq

    Curved Train platform?

    Inside or outside, it's going to look odd. Because of the tight curves your platform will need to be a good distance away from the track.
  3. Duq

    Color and Distance

    I've seen PU used to control a train; color sensor in the train reading coloured tiles between the rails for commands like half speed, stop, reverse. Don't think there was any Arduino involved though.
  4. What can I say? Once a teacher....
  5. Very impressive model! I'll have to work a bit harder now on my next model... Also looks like I need to upgrade my labelmaker. I bought the Dymo Labelmanager PnP a while ago but I'm disappointed with the resolution. By the way, did you really write 'my Legos' in that article? :-P
  6. Remember this? Eurobricks banner by Duq, on Flickr According to the Wayback machine we've had these silly rabbits for well over 2 years now....
  7. @Toastie Probably a question for you: I'm trying to control a train with an RCX. That works, and using a light sensor to stop it where I want also works. Most of the time.... I'm running the output on power 1, that's fast enough for my tram. I tried 0, but that's too low to make it move. My problem is that every now and then the output appears to give the train motor more power. As a result it runs faster, overshoots the mark at the light sensor, and my program is in trouble.... Have others noticed this problem or is it a problem with the brick I'm using? If it's a known problem, is there a way around it? Would writing my own PWM be an option or will that not work because RCX already uses PWM itself?
  8. I think that's P for Point and 40 because the straight section is 40 studs long. The crossings are 'X' and straights are 'S'. This is all good news but with all their focus on this track system the development of the Android app for the PFx brick seems to suffer...
  9. Duq

    Dual Horizon Express best set up

    When does it derail? I'm guessing when the front engine goes into a turn and slows down while the rear keeps pushing at a higher speed. Do you have rubber bands on all motor wheels? It might help to remove the rubber on one side of your engine, that might make it slow down less in turns. If that doesn't help, go with Toastie and just put the motors on one end of the train.
  10. You had enough space in the front, so why did you decide to put the receiver in the cab? Is it because you don't like the look of the lens? Does having it in the cab cause problems with line of sight when you control the train?
  11. Is it possible to use two light sensors on a single input on the RCX? What I want to do is have two LED/Light sensor combo's to detect passing trains and I only need to know if one of them has been triggered, not which one.
  12. Duq

    Switch modification

    Would it not be easier to swap the heatsink regulator with the one beside it? Or are they all eventually going to have a heatsink? Another option is to have the speed regulators on a board that hinges or slides under the table. Something like this:
  13. Thanks for the tips Toastie, I've ordered this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CXYNV48/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  14. That's a nice looking diesel in its own right, nevermind the mechanism. Gonna have to have a go at a version of that decoupler myself one of these days.
  15. Duq

    Switch modification

    I can't quite remember the sequence either so I'll go with what I wrote back then. Ben's challenge in Railbricks got me thinking. Then I found this picture by Chris Alano on Brickshelf: Then I combined it with the mechanism from set 8052; if you put axles through two half-beams (I hate the name lift-arm) and put them in adjacent holes of a Technic beam then they can turn a few degrees before they hit eachother. That few degrees turns out to be just enough for the switch. As a bonus for Haddock you can still manually throw the switch ;-)