Duq

Hey, can you tell us a little more? What do you already know about this train, where did it come from? Where have you looked?

You can simplify that a lot by powering the blind drivers from the motor. All wheels are connected with the connecting rods so you'll still get traction on all wheels but it saves a few gears. Another tip: take the rubber bands off on one side of the engine. Makes it go around curves much better.

That doesn't add up... The last two motorised City passenger trains were 677 parts for €130/$160 and 764 parts for €160/$190. The 2014 station 423 parts for €50/$65. So either that price is wrong, or the train is not motorised (but maybe designed to be motorised).

@michaelgale As we're entering Q2 of 2023, can you tell us how things are progressing with the P40's? I've all this pocketmoney in my piggy-bank...

I picked up a 2023 catalogue in our Lego brand store and to my surprise it shows the 2018 freight train but not the 2022 one. Then I had a look on Shop at Home and found that while the 2018 passenger train is retired, the 2018 freight train is not. Wonder what's going on there...

Except... the hole in a Technic brick is slightly higher than the side-stud on a headlight brick... I agree with @jtlan though - you're giving yourself a lot of headaches later on with connecting rods as well as building on top of this chassis.

I tried to have a look at the book on Peeron, but the images seem to be gone. The index with thumbnails is there, but you can't view the bigger images. Does anyone know if it's available anywhere else?

Very nice 'inspired by' project! You have it motorised... do you have a loop of track? How do you do the turns?

In one piece.... 15461: Or 33299 with an axle-pin (no friction!): Or 6632 with two axle-pins (no friction!) or two 2L axles: You get the idea...

Nice idea to build the tram together! I'm afraid you're looking at a bit of a modification job though. Most of the front is built studs forward. You can put something like 32530 on that but I'd be afraid it will get pulled off after a while. You can remove the bottom row from the front, remove the brick with 4 studs forward, extend the chassis and then use for example the plate 2x3 with a hole, and a 3 long Technic liftarm with two 2L axles. None of this is tested, I'm just thinking up a suggestion ;-)

Congratulations on a well-deserved win!

Things changed after you changed the batteries. That makes me wonder: Were all the batteries the same? Same brand, same capacity? Did something else change when you swapped batteries? Did you accidentally push the wheels tight against the motor body? Did one of the connectors get unplugged and not properly plugged back in? I definitely wouldn't open the motor before talking to customer service.

I don't think this quite counts as cultural appropriation. Otherwise Lego would have a problem selling the Creator Mustang in Europe and the Fiat 500 outside Italy. I build trains from the Netherlands where I grew up, Germany because my dad had German model train and Ireland because I live here now. I've once built an American diesel and if some day I fance a train from anywhere else in the world I'd have no problem modelling it.

It prevents the gears from skipping (or the powerful XL motors from pulling the whole thing apart ;- )

4 XL motors will also need multiple battery packs... If you do decide to go with XL motors I would suggest bracing the gears with this piece for example: (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=87408#T=C&C=11)