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Found 45 results

  1. Thunderwingds

    Moc steam train help

    So I've been working on a black steam train using the gear system from the emerald night train design while it runs fine on straight track it slows to stops around corners It was using the same xl motor design although I did tests with a pf train motor b it the same results (removed the Pistons etc) but no luck Hoping to get some advice as this is my first moc train and I have a upcoming show this month and like it running along with my other trains (white bullet train and winter train)
  2. Hi, how are you doing? So... just as a future reference point, how do you feel about self-promoting your Ideas submissions on here? Are they allowed, and- more intriguing to me- do you respect them? Is it too desperate/low-brow to you? I've been debating whether I should put any and all my future Ideas submissions on here, I'm curious what you guys think about it? Thanks, I appreciate it!
  3. Steven the toa of flight

    How was your thanksgiving?

    So how was everyone’s thanksgiving I wish to know.
  4. Hello, I am looking for the part 4621555 but transparent. I want to change the two panels over the engine of the porsche gt3 rs so I can see it. Are there any panels like this? Greetings
  5. Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated.
  6. I'm back with one last issue in my GX EV3 build. I just got done finishing the doors, side panels, rear trunk door, hood, and some part of the roof. But the vehicle was so heavy that when I drove it around, it kept on doing the same thing. The diffs were clicking and the car had very much difficulty moving. Here is a picture of the bottom of the vehicle. Most of the clicking seems to be coming from the rear diff when I move the wheels by hand. I can either do two things. 1. Reinforce the rear diff somehow. 2. Improve it's off-road performance and stop the clicking somewhat by replacing the diffs with knob gears. But this will come at the cost of independent moving between the wheels. What should I do? Please give me the best response you can so the clicking will stop and I could finally take this AWD machine through some rough terrain like a real SUV. I really appreciate any advice.
  7. With one of my recent MOCs, people have been asking for instructions and since I generally don't have a lot of time, it's been a doubtful case. However, I've considered making them and then selling them for this MOC (and other MOCs with hundreds of pieces that involve complex techniques) to justify the time taken (which will also help me fund such creations in the future). Now that someone has mentioned being willing to pay for them, I decided to do some research. As this is something I haven't done before, I was wondering if there are any guidelines to take into mind to start doing this. What people are generally willing to pay, the best way to distribute the instructions and any other things to potentially take in mind, such as the unwanted spreading of copies and all other things that may be involved. Knowing that there might be some people here who also deal in such trades and some who may just know a thing or two about it, I figured I'd just ask to help get me started in the best way possible. ~ GM
  8. XBrickmonster


    At the bottom of a lot of people's replies, I notice a little area where they have personal info/pictures/messages. I was wondering how you get that little box? (EDIT) I see now that they are called signatures, but I don't see an option in my account preferences about signatures.
  9. Personally, I'd like to visit the UK. For one thing, I'm part-British, and I also have a lot of friends from the UK, including one of my best friend's girlfriend.. whom he hasn't seen in months, sadly.
  10. I'm building a tow truck, and I'm running into a problem with the design of the functions. First, let's do an image of what we're talking about. As you see, it's a smaller-scale version of a tow truck similar to 8285, but with an extra axle. The wheels will be those from 42024 and other sets. Because of the scale, there is probably not enough room to add PF. So right now I'm aiming to have it manual. As far as I can see now, there will be the following functions: steering main boom raising/lowering main boom extension main boom winch car lifter raising/lowering car lifter fold out/in outriggers The steering is done and controlled by the gear on the roof. The car lifter fold in/out will be manual with a knob at the back. Remaining are 5 functions. The question I'm having now is, how to drive those. Of course, with the model being manual, I could just add a knob for every function. But this doesn't sound like the most technically challenging option, so I am thinking of adding some kind of switchbox. But, 5 functions is kind of an unwieldy number, ecause it requires 3 switches with 1 being half-used. Currently, the outriggers are driven by knobs on the side, and I could leave it that way and have 4 functions running from the switchbox, but this feels kind of incomplete as well. So I'm unsure about where to go from here. So I'm looking for some advice. What do you think? Are there other options? What would you do?
  11. Hi guys, can I damage PF Servo motor if I will force to turn it only 45° as you can see it on image bellow? Green axle will be connected to servo that will be fixed to red part:
  12. I'm programming my EV3 vehicle to be operated by an IR beacon remote. I've successfully got the car to be able to move, but I'm stuck on something else. My vehicle has a 4-speed transmission, and a medium motor shifts the gears. I used the remote's topmost button (the one that turns on the green light on the remote) for shifting the gearbox. But when I press it, something goes off. It's really hard to say, but what I know is that the topmost button isn't acting like a normal button. So the motor keeps on moving until the IR sensor realizes the green light is off. I really need help with the program because I just want the topmost button to act like a normal button so I can press it to make the medium motor shift one gear with a one second wait before shifting to the next one. I would love a very helpful response from someone that knows how to program the IR remote and if there is no way to get the topmost button to get the result I want, an alternative would be nice so I can be able to shift gears with the push of a button on the remote.
  13. Whenever people see my collection they always comment on how large it is (even though I'll usually only have about 5% on display at any time due to space) and I'll usually correct them by saying that it's small compared to some people's. I have (as of right now) 466 sets and including lose pieces approximately 120,000 parts. I'd consider my collection to be small. I was just wondering what other people would consider to be a "large" collection?
  14. I'm selling some empty set boxes, and someone has asked if I can ship to them. Problem is, the boxes themselves are some of the larger UCS sized boxes. How would I go about shipping them?
  15. How does one get the "LDD Builder" tag? I build frequently in LDD and would love to know. Thanks in advance! VF-2187
  16. Hello! I have noticed recently that I can't buy any Lego from any other amazon site than my home country. I am curious why this is? Also since I cannot buy Lego internationally anymore from amazon, does anyone know of other shops from the UK or Europe that ship to the U.S. internationally they can recommend. All suggestions appreciated -RailCo
  17. Demetreous

    Inquiry of this Forum

    Hello everyone, I am fairly new to this forum and noticed that there are many "guilds" that run the place. I was wondering if this forum is used to support the worlds and story lines that have been set before me, or if it is encouraged to bring in original story lines. Excuse my noobery, -Deme
  18. Well, I've come back to Technic, but I need to get a set toadd some good pieces. Criteria: I can only spend up to $200 Canadian Dollar$ It need some nice wheels I don't mind buying from brucklink/Amazon/eBay, etc I'm wanting pnuematics, LAs, differential(s), frames, PF isn't required. Thanks for your future suggestions!
  19. DwalinF

    Lift Mechanism

    I have an idea to build lift cabin on the side of a modular building. Who can help to build or give a link for mechanism that can lift the cabin up, then stop (or without pause), and then go down. And repeat this cycle. Up-down-up-down... Thank you for your attention
  20. Hi all, I am rebuilding all my sets to see if they are complete. Today i rebuild set 357 firestation. I do this with the help of bricklink to find all the correct pieces. Bricklink stated that there are 4 4-long en 1-wide bricks with a legoland engraving in the set. 1 in white and 3 in red. I know where the white one belongs in the set. But where do the red ones go? I can't figure it out.
  21. Actor Builder

    Shop Promotion Date Thing

    Hello. I've been meaning to order some LEGO and I was happy when the Mr. Freeze promotion was extended to April 29th, but I'm a serious procrastinator. I literally started the thread on procrastination. Anyways, does anybody know if "Extended to April 29" means that I can order it on the 29th, or will it go away at midnight tonight on the 28th? It doesn't specify, and if anyone knows about past situations like this I would be much obliged if you would edify me. I want to put off my order until tomorrow, because I'm writing a paper now, but I'd hate to miss Mr. Freeze!
  22. Plutoniarch

    Interchangable arms?

    I know rock monster arms connect with the same tube system as minifigure arms- what other things can connect to minifigure torsos?
  23. Mr Greeble

    Should I buy the Batcave?

    Alright - Should I buy the Batcave set? It seems super cool, but it's also really pricey. Also, is there a way to get it a bit cheaper?
  24. Hey guys! As my Techtroners LEGO SPACE pseudo subtheme becomes more and more known (and maybe even popular in a way) I am starting to think about some real important changes to the way I am designing my MOCs which would have really strong visual effect on my future builds...and yet would be pretty challenging too for me to design them in that way I guess! Many times some of you kind of "complain" (OK, I know it is not the best description of the matter but I am unable describe it differently...anyway I mean it really in a good manner ) that my MOCs may look fine but there is one thing that somehow ruins it all a bit: as I am basically "prototyping" new bricks' colors it is quite often not possible building such design for real because such brick colors simply do not exist, of course. Some other "complain" from time to time is also the fact that some of my MOCs look too complex = too many bricks needed for their construction with real LEGO bricks (in fact I was always adoring those older TLG designers - mainly those form 80's - that were able doing so much and big looking stuff with just "a few" bricks used like <400 for a big space station compared, for example, to my own!) - my "normal" brick count is actually somewhere around 1000 +/-. So my question is: - do you think I should go the way of designing my future Techtroners MOCs FROM EXISTING BRICK COLORS ONLY AND NOT THAT COMPLEX (like, let's say, 500 pcs as maximum thus making my MOCs looking not that too many bricks and fancy anymore)? - or should I STAY WITH MY CURRENT APPROACH (thus making it looking somewhat amazing still BUT ppl would not be able build it in a designed way)? Please, show me your opinion in my poll if you may - I would be very thankful to you if you do! P.S.: this would have effect on all of my newly designed MOCs from 2016 onward but would not be taken to consideration to MOCs that are already designed but not publicly released yet (one can very easily tell when was one designed by my numbering: just look at the middle two digits of MOC's respective number - it is the year it designed! ). regards bublible
  25. Hey guys From time to time I use to play a bit with new rendering light setup for my renders and the latest one (basically still just a prototype of one of the next MOCs of mine) makes me a bit head ache as I am not sure which version - lighter or darker - looks more natural (in a way, of course)...please, tell me what do you think, what is your opinion (thanx in advance for any thoughts on these two)? BTW: I personally favor the lighter one but as I am using white background and there is a lot of white color bricks it may sometime become visibly bleeched at some spots of that color, so I really don't know: do you think it is too obvious (there for it would be better avoiding such version) or could I go with the lighter one anyway? Please, click images for FullHD versions so it is better visible... LIGHTER VERSION: DARKER VERSION: