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Found 93 results

  1. Pandora

    Flickr Tutorial

    Flickr seems to change so often that it's hard to keep up with all of its functions. There have been a number of questions about deeplinking from Flickr recently, so I hope people find this short tutorial helpful. I have included TWO ways of sharing pictures from Flickr in this tutorial; using the "Share" button and through the "Download" button. Embedding pictures using the "Share button. Embedding pictures using the "Download" button. Feel free to post questions about Flickr here and anyone can answer them. For any other questions, ie anything not relating to flickr, please check the FAQ tab in the upper right of the forum, or post in the HELP! ! ! topic here in Forum Information and Help.
  2. studdles

    Reproducing LEGO Sails

    [bloggedcp][/bloggedcp] Hi all, this is my first post here so I hope some of you will find this useful. I have been interested in lego pirates in particular since I got my first set almost 20 years ago. The problem is that as the sets age, the sails become tattered and worn, and can be quite difficult to find. I've been searching for a while now for a reliable technique for reproducing lego sails in as authentic a way as possible, but with little success (maybe I've just been looking wrong?) Anyhow, I've been working on my own technique, and decided I would share it for those who, like me, have been searching for a way to make authentic looking lego sails that are nearly indistinguishable from the originals. The sails I've been working on are those of the Skull's Eye Schooner, the number one ship on my, and half the planet's, wanted list. The problem everyone has when it comes to reproducing sails is trying to work out the material that lego uses. It has a relatively unique stiffness for a cloth that is relatively thin; this is not because a special material has been used, but because a standard linen cloth has been prepared with a sizing/priming agent. What I have done is primed regular calico cloth with a watered down acrylic gesso. When dried, it is a very good likeness of lego's cloth, and is stiff enough to be fed into an inkjet printer. Here's the gesso I used: gesso is used by artists to prime canvases for painting and can be purchased from any art/craft supply store, this jar cost me $10 and will probably make a few dozen sails. They can come coloured, I've chosen white as the base colour of the skull's eye schooner is white, but acrylic paint can be added to make different base colours, such as the tan coloured imperial flagship's sails. Again, just plain calico, very cheap I've cut it slightly larger than A4 here You want to water the gesso down roughly 1 part gesso to 3 parts water, this will help the gesso to soak into the calico. Give it two coats on each side then hang it up to dry. Once dry, I trimmed it down to A4 size. Next up, I got the 1:1 scans from the sails library here: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=10076 , traced them in photoshop and recoloured them to improve the saturation once printed. As the scans were 1:1, no resizing was needed before printing. I just fed the canvas into the printer carefully and printed at high quality settings. Once the sail is printed it's just a matter of cutting them out: And here's the final result: And here's an armada flagship sail I made I hope someone finds this useful. I will upload my tracings later for anyone who's interested
  3. I could not stand idea of using plates or tiles to simulate sails inside digital design of my ships, so I went on and figured out how to make your custom digital sails in 3D and import them into which I use for digital design of my MOCs. I will demonstrate step by step process of main sail of my little MOC – Warty Crab. Let’s go! 1. DESIGNING 3D SAILS IN CAD 1.1 We start by opening our CAD software (for this demonstration I used SolidWorks) and in ‘Front-plane’ we draw arch with dimensions as shown on picture 1.2 Next, we use ‘Extrude’ feature to create third dimension. Length 105 millimeters. Be sure to use mid-plane option. Important: check ‘thin-feature’ value 1mm. This makes part solid instead of being only surface. 1.3 Next, we choose ‘Right-plane’ where we draw two circles with dimensions as picture shows. 1.4 We use feature ‘Extrude-Cut’ to cut-out the top and bottom of the sail 1.5 We repeat the process for left and right side – in new sketch we draw two new circles as picture shows. 1.6 Click on ‘Extrude-Cut’ and off they go, both sides 1.7 We need to smooth out sharp edges with feature ‘Fillet’ radius 6mm. We choose sharp edge one by one all around 1.8 We repeat the same for other sharp edges using ‘Fillet’ 3mm. 1.9 Last thing we need to make holes for hanging our sails. In ‘Right-plane’ we draw four holes as picture shows 1.10 Click on ‘Extrude-Cut’ 2. EXPORT TO STL FORMAT 2.1 Click on ‘File’ -> ‘Save-As’ -> and under type we choose ‘STL’ but before saving we must click OPTIONS. This is most important part of the process. 2.2 Inside the options we check ‘ASCII’ ‘millimeters’. If we stay in ‘Binary’ the process won’t work! Ye be warned. Also, we check ‘Coarse’ resolution on purpose. Fine resolution will make file too big for conversion and very hard for Partdesigner to open later on. 2.3 Click on ‘Save to Desktop’ in this demonstration example 3. CONVERSION OF STL TO DAT Partdesigner (the accompanying software of is not able to open STL format, but is able to open DAT format, so next order of business is to convert STL to DAT using one small but crucial script. 3.1 We visit website 3.2 Click on ‘CODE’ on the right side of screen and we choose ‘Download as ZIP’ 3.3 We extract the content of ZIP file on Desktop (it says THIS IS MY DESKTOP) and we copy our STL file inside the same folder 3.4 Inside the folder we drag and drop STL file over icon as picture shows 3.5 The script will come alive and in one or two second, using the black screen, it will convert the file to DAT. How do we know we succeeded? Inside the same folder a DAT file will appear with some amount of size in kb. Be warned: if created DAT file has zero 0 kb something went wrong (this can happen). If you try to convert too big file the process can take several minutes, but I don’t recommend this since it will be impossible for Partdesigner to manage large files. 4. PARTDESIGNER 4.1 We launch Partdesigner and we click ‘IMPORT’ on the right side 4.2 In new window we chose ‘3D-objects’ and we click ‘Choose a file’ 4.3 We go on Desktop (in this example), inside the folder of little conversion program, and choose our DAT file. Click ‘Open’. 4.4 In preview window we can sometimes see the 3D part. This time no. Never mind, click ‘INSERT’ 4.5 We have our sail successfully opened, but before exporting it to Studio, we can make in red/white colors. We choose ‘Insert’ -> ‘Image’ 4.6 From Desktop we choose RedWhite.PNG pattern picture (image must be in PNG format), and we click ‘Open’ 4.7 Inside Partdesigner we place and position the image the best way we can, and when we are happy we click on check mark. Be patient for few seconds until image appears glued to the surface of new custom part. 4.8 Finally, we can click ‘Export to Studio’ and we rename the part as we please. 5. STUDIO.IO 5.1 We launch the and inside we choose ‘Custom Parts’ in left menu 5.2 We find our new sail and we drag and drop it on working surface which the whole process ends. The same process I used when I made custom ropes for ‘rigging’. So now you know how it’s done. I hope it helps. Now go and create! :) THE END
  4. adwind

    MOC: mini Home Alone house

    Made this mini McCallister's house during the release. My first take in this scale, but I like how it turned out so made a tutorial and free instructions ;)
  5. Brick New World

    Happy Easter Bunny

    Happy Easter everyone. I know, a week to early but here is my Quickbuild Easter Bunny Tutorial. Enjoy!
  6. evancelt

    [Tutorial] MOC Ground Texture

    As a follow up to my earlier MOC SNOT-edge base tutorial, I thought I’d show these phases of building out ground terrain complexity. In this case I’m building a path through some sandy grass Starting with a dark tan plate blank slate! First up I added some olive green 1x2 plates to the surface. I covered up any visible joints between the underlying dark tan plates with the olive green. Also tried to create some random-looking patterns of connected green plates to represent vegetation. I put more of the olive green plates toward the front of the base since that would be closer to the camera. Also added some 1x2 dark tan tiles near the edge of the base to help ease into the second layer of plates. Left some blank studs nearest to the edge of the base to make that relief rise even more gradual. Next up I added some 2x2 dark tan tiles to the middle to represent walked-on areas of ground, and then scattered 1x2 and 4x8 dark tan tiles to start filling in large areas of ground. I tried to leave little 1x1 holes in the ground covering. Next up I dropped some 1x2 light bley plates into the ground to represent some rocks Next up was some 1x2 medium nougat plates Then I started to fill in those empty 1x1 holes with dark bley plates, coral plates, and dark tan tiles. The tiles help make the ground look more walked on, and the coral was meant to add some color! Finally, I added some round plates and tiles to the path area of the MOC. These were meant to represent pebbles on the path. The finished product. A lot of it ended up getting covered up with figs/tents. I was glad for the pops of coral color, as the whole thing looks a bit dark tan heavy! The dark tan helps the white of the tents pop more. For a future rendition, making the sunken road a different color (regular tan?) would have added some nice contrast. Anyway, hopefully this was helpful for someone starting out with building ground complexity!
  7. rock raider

    Sail Making Tutorial

    I needed to make the final sails for HMS BIRCH so I thought this would be a good opportunity to show my method for sail making. I based this technique on tutorials from this forum as well as some model ship forums along with some of my own intuition and experimentation. This tutorial is for making fairly realistic sails. If you are trying to make sails in the style of official Lego sails, I recommend you check out this topic on reproducing Lego sails from which I took inspiration. To start, make paper templates of the sails you want to make. Then trace them onto your fabric. I'm using calico because it has a natural color, it's thin and is pretty inexpensive. Next, cut out your sails being sure to leave at least half an inch around the edges. This border will allow you to hem the edges later but you want to leave more than your intended hem to account for the fraying of the fabric. Then, using a pencil and a ruler, draw lines to mark where you will sew a stitch to represent the seam between panels of sailcloth. In historical ships, panels were usually between 18 and 42 inches wide depending on what country they were made in the type of sail. I spaced my seams at 3/4 inch for square sails and 1/2 inch for triangular sails. Here is a great reference on sails. Now you can sew the fake seams. The pencil lines make it much easier to sew a straight line and it is very obvious on the final product if your lines aren't parallel. I'm no seamstress but I understand that you should backstitch at the ends of the stitch to prevent it from unraveling. I usually go 1/4 inch past the edge of the sail for this. Now we apply art gesso to slightly stiffen the fabric and prevent further fraying. I applied a mixture of one part gesso to 3 parts water to both sides using a cheap paintbrush. Then hang them up to dry for a few hours. I usually hang them outside but it was cold and rainy. I usually iron the sails briefly to make sure they are flat before proceeding. Then, mark a line 1/4 inch from the edge of the final sail and cut it out. This will be our hemmed edge. Fold over the edge using a ruler. This is your last opportunity to make sure the line is straight. I've noticed that tracing on a flexible fabric can lead to lines that are slightly curved but I don't sweat it because I know I can fix it here. Finally, sew your hem. You can also glue or sew in some string to use as attachment points for your sheets and halyards to make attaching your sails to your ship easier later. And you've done it! Your ships will be the fastest on the seas! Please let me know if you have any questions or if anything is unclear. This is my first time trying to make a tutorial so I hope you find it useful.
  8. Brick New World

    LEGO remote control - Tutorial

    Hello there, today I show you how to build a LEGO remote control. Enjoy the video.
  9. evancelt

    [Tutorial] MOC SNOT Base

    I got started on a new pirate/imperial MOC yesterday evening and thought I’d make a little tutorial as I went about how to make a SNOT (Studs Not On Top) base. This is how far I got in about 90 minutes, will post again when I make more progress. First off, credits to @Ayrlego for showing me how to make this sort of base originally with his Watermill WIP thread. ------------------- STEPS: 1. Make the shape of the base with plates. You want to end up with a 2-layer thick shape made of plates. I think it looks most natural if you only ever shift the edge border by 1 stud at a time ------------------- 2. Once you have a 2-layer plate, add a layer of bricks on top, but leave a 1 stud empty space around the edge. That’s where SNOT bricks are going to go ------------------- 3. Place SNOT bricks around the outside. On the corners, use SNOT bricks with 2 studs on adjacent sides. If you need to buy SNOT bricks in bulk, yellow ones are pretty cheap on BrickLink. When done, you’ll have a base that is 5 plates tall (2 plates + 1 brick). That 5-plate height is important, because 5 plate height is exactly the height of a 2x plate on its side ------------------- 4. Attach 1x and 2x plates to the SNOT sides. You’ll need to build up the sides with more plates to make the border transitions smoother. ------------------- 5. Place plates on top of the base, covering the SNOT bricks. This will start the visible part of your building base and also make the SNOT bricks secure. ------------------- That’s as far as I got in one 90-min sitting! I love that this SNOT base is super sturdy, which comes in handy when I'm moving it back and forth from my building area to a kid-proof storage area. I also love that imagination is the only limit when it comes to shape! Hopefully this little tutorial helps others get started with it.
  10. Brick New World

    LEGO magic cube - Tutorial

    Hello, today I present you a new Tutorial video of a magic LEGO cube. It´s no Rubrix but still fun to try and to build. Enjoy the video. Cheers
  11. Brick New World

    Hello from my small LEGO City

    Hello there, I am Brick new World from germany and I am currently building a small LEGO town on my Channel on Youtube. There i also make small Tutorials of different stuff I build, like furniture, a Spaceballs Mr. Coffee.... The twist on my LEGO City is it´s Retro 80´s style. I use many of the early 80´s LEGO sets to build its core. So far I am 14 Episodes in of my City building and there are more to come. I try to make 3-5 new different LEGO Videos every week. You can find my Channel here: Cheers Brick new World
  12. Brick New World

    LEGO chocolate bar - Tutorial

    Hello there, today i have build a LEGO chocolate bar. Enjoy the tutorial!
  13. Brick New World

    Spaceballs Mr. Coffee

    Hello there, this is a short and easy tutorial on how to build your own Mr. Coffee
  14. Hello, this time i present you a nice tutorial video of how to build a grandfather clock. Enjoy
  15. Hi all, here is a short Video of how to build a LEGO Television. Enjoy!
  16. Dunkleosteus

    Custom Hull Tutorial

    Tutorial<br /><br />
  17. Zarcania

    Door articulation

    I have gone througth the tutorial and seen several very noce things. However, I'd like to know how this door can be articulated. I don't know the right part "handle" and on what thing it can go. Thanks
  18. My apologies if there's a tutorial on the recent updates to the Powered Up app somewhere - I haven't been able to find one. Having spent a couple of days playing with recent updates to the app, here's some stuff I figured out so far. I'm sure somebody can contribute with more: how to create custom control profiles with drive & steering motors (also works for the C+ Servo motor) how to set up joysticks, end-to-end buttons, sliders and how to enable controlling motors by tilting your device how to set up display of a motor's speed or position
  19. Hi, a few weeks ago I started a tutorial series on youtube. It's about how to program the lego powered up hardware with the Powered Up App (Lego Boost, lego Control+ and the wedo 2.0 sensors are part of the powered up hardware). The complete tutorial is 100% free. So far most of the stuff is pretty basic but it will get much, much, much more complicated later. I promise that ;) (People that saw the german version of the tutorial might know that already) There will be a new part each wednesday.
  20. Kai NRG

    GoH Writing Guide

    I don’t know about you but when I think GoH, I think castle, I think great LEGO builds, and I think stories. Because what separates this forum from the history forum is the fun we all have telling our own unique stories in a shared world. Our builds tell stories all on their own. And some of the most powerful stories don’t need words. But there are definitely times when we want to know what the characters said, what they thought, what came before and what came after. So the question is: how do I say that without boring myself and boring my reader? It’s a lot like photography: you’ve built a great MOC but if you can’t take a good picture we can’t see it. So similarly, you’ve built a great scene but if you can’t explain the before and after we don’t know what we’re looking at. But somehow there’ve been lots of photography tutorials, but precious little about writing your LEGO creation’s story. This is an attempt to drop a few bricks into that gap. It’s been a long time now since I volunteered to do this, I know. So I guess it’d better be good. Anyway, as an introduction to why I volunteered to write about writing: I’m not a bestselling author yet, but you might want to get my autograph anyway if you have a chance, because when my books start hitting shelves… No seriously, I love to write, so what could be better than writing about writing? I’ve divided this guide into three sections. Story: brainstorming, structure, and character Style: writing beautifully Grammar: writing well I. Brainstorming Brainstorming is a lot like sacking a castle. You want the treasure and they’ve hid it. So you grab ahold of a scullion’s collar and you brandish your spear an inch from his nose and you scream: “Where did you put the silverware??” In other words, ask your brain questions. Who is this story about? What are they doing? Why are they doing it? Find out what it is you don’t know and ask questions about that. Where did Queen Ylspeth’s strange counselor come from? Why is he here? What does he tell her? (Or was it a she? I’ve forgotten…) If you’ve already built something, or already know what you’re going to build, that’s a great springboard. If I’m building a castle I’ll ask questions like, “How long has this been here? Who lives in it? What tempts him to leave? What makes him stay?” This is a great dialogue to have with yourself while you’re building. All those little details that make your build come to life can make your story come to life too. Just keep asking yourself why they’re there. Then take those questions and use them as background for your story. Once you’ve found out the answer, hold it out like a carrot on a stick for your (hopefully vegan) reader. This is a step you can come back to again and again. When you’re stuck don’t stare at a blank paper, but write down questions and answers. Act like it’s someone else’s story and you’re trying to squeeze it out of them. Questions will have you using writers’ block as a diving board. II. Structure The amount of structure you need depends on how long your story is. Obviously you don’t need three stories of scaffolding to build a mud hut. So if it’s just about one build, pick one subject, stick with one or two characters, and make it fun. But if you’re carrying across multiple builds, writing a whole tale in fact, an outline could help keep you from getting stuck. Especially if you pick some scenes you really are looking forward to and put them toward the end. Otherwise, when you have to get inspired both for the next build and for the next piece of your story, chances are it’ll just peter out. An outline of a story is basically a timeline. First the Queen came to power, then she celebrated, then there was some discontent and rebellion, then – you get the picture. If it’s a mystery then you may want to move some scenes out of chronological order, and an outline will really help you keep track of that. So sit down and write an outline the same way you’d write a to-do list for your day. An outline can help you build suspense. Like the carrot on the stick we mentioned above. When you know what’s coming you can kinda wink at your reader every now and then. Plus, you can hint at themes and motifs from the end of your story at the beginning. However, while there’s lots to be said for an outline, in an RPG setting where you’re going to want your story to be flexible and accommodate other people’s stories and the challenges, deciding to just go build by build – building whatever inspires you and fitting it into a story later – can work better. In fact, if you are going to use an outline, I suggest keeping the story arc tight and short so you don’t get burned out or distracted before it ends. III. Characters In an RPG like this, the odds are most people won’t remember the details of what happened in your last story. But if you create a great character, they’ll remember that character and it will make them want to read your next story. Full disclosure: back when I wrote GoH stories I didn’t really think about that. My characters were pretty boring and unlively. I did better in BoBS. So how do you create a great character? Again, you have an advantage as a LEGO builder. You can build your character and then look at him/her. What is he wearing? What kind of facial expression is his norm? This can help you get started. Get to know your character by placing him in dangerous or awkward situations. Make him sweat. Readers will enjoy this too. Take inspiration from people you enjoy being around in real life. Most likely, your main goal with a story like this is to have a good time, so a friendly, quirky, funny character is probably going to be a bigger hit than a super complex, struggling character who needs a whole novel in order to properly develop himself. My advice is: resist the temptation to start with your character in his or her everyday life. That’s really tough to pull off. Only once you’ve gotten to know his extremes are you ready to figure out what he acts like every day and still make it interesting. And don’t forget that awkward is just as good a way to test your character development as danger. The bonus for awkward is, you can incorporate that into the most generic of builds! IV. Style Variety is the spice of life. Here are the rules on variety: Don’t use the same key word twice in two lines of text. Don’t start two sentences in a row with the same word. Don’t use the same sentence structure twice in a row. (Unfortunately it started to rain. Angrily the baker threw out his soggy bread.) Don’t use a person’s name twice in a row. Don’t use pronouns more than three times in a row. Don’t start two paragraphs in a row with the same word. Remember those rules. Know them. Internalize them. Follow them. Then when they become a part of yourself, break them. But don’t ever, ever, break the rules without knowing it! Variety in word use comes from a wide vocabulary. So read! Look up words you don’t know and try to get a feel for them. If you’ve used the same word twice, take the time to look up synonyms. Sentence structure is another, often overlooked, place where variety is essential. Most sentences start with the subject. White colored pencils are a gimmick. A notebook is a tablet whose battery never dies. I’m always surprised when I open a can of evaporated milk and there’s actually something inside. So change it up. Start with a preposition. Underneath the table, he shivered with fright. Start with a participle (that’s a verb that ends in -ing). Slashing furiously, she destroyed the piñata. Start with a clause. When it started snowing, Alaric realized that today wasn’t the best day for a smoothie. Vary the way you end your sentences, too. And the middle. Pay attention to where your commas are going. They shouldn’t always be in the same place. The goal is to create a mental picture. As a builder, you have the advantage of already presenting your reader with a visual image, but that doesn’t mean you can’t use some description in your writing. And the whole point of a picture is that it’s a riot of color and shape. It’s not uniform. It’s varied. Other stylistic techniques include parallelism, alliteration, similes, metaphors, questions, and quotations. Let’s take those in order. When the lightning flashed and the thunder rumbled, he knew it was time to take shelter. Parallelism is huge and awesome. You can parallel anything from a word to a sentence to a paragraph to an entire chapter. And a good triple is like a grand slam. He looked at her as if she were a hat rack. That’s a simile – a comparison. Try to avoid cliché’s, but good similes are powerful. This paperwork was a hurdle he couldn’t jump. This one’s a metaphor – a simile that doesn’t explain itself. No “like” or “as if.” Why was the floor stained red? Questions make your writing more personal. Get your reader involved! “Cry havoc, and let slip the dogs of war!” Quotations are a chance to show off your Shakespeare. Again, we’re trying to create a picture in the reader’s mind. When was the last time you got a mental picture out of a textbook? So don’t write like a textbook. Write like a symphony. V. Grammar Bet I know what you’re all thinking: “Oh look, she saved the best for last!” Don’t worry, I’m just going to run over a few common errors to look out for. By no means an exhaustive list! They’re, their, there. The terrible triplets. They’re is they are. Read it like that when you proofread and you’ll never get it wrong. Their is possessive. Their book, their pen, their funeral. There is location. Your vs. you’re. Again, read you’re like you are and you won’t get it wrong. The boys’, the boy’s… where exactly does that ‘postrophe go? Think of it without the apostrophe. Does the toy belong to the boys or the boy? If it belongs to the boy, then it’s the boy’s. If it belongs to the boys then it’s the boys’. Me and I. Lord Gideon and I are going shopping in Barqa. Lord Gideon and me are going shopping in Barqa. Which is it? Get rid of Lord Gideon and you’ll see. I am going shopping in Barqa, or me am going shopping in Barqa? Oh, duh… How about this: De Gothia met Lord Gideon and I while we were shopping in Barqa, or De Gothia met Lord Gideon and me while we were shopping in Barqa? Try getting rid of Lord Gideon again. Here’s a tricky one: Barqa is a place where Lord Gideon and I like to go shopping, or Barqa is a place where Lord Gideon and me like to go shopping? Note that the pronoun (I, me) always goes after the name(s). Two, too, to. The number two has a w, too has too many o’s, and to… well, it’s short, sweet, and to the point. Affect vs. effect. The effects of the Black Spire’s demise affected me. Its vs. it’s. Read it’s as it is, a contraction. Its is possessive. A possessive without an apostrophe. No wonder it’s confusing. Peak and peek vs. pique. Peak is a jutting rock or mountain top, peek is when you stick your head out from around the peak to catch sight of someone, and pique is the disgruntled feeling you get because the person you expected to peek around the peak didn’t do it. Who, whom, whose, and who’s. Okay, deep breath. Who is about he or she. Whom is about him or her. Who was messing with my LEGO? She was. Whom should I attack for destroying my MOC? I should attack her. (But sometimes whom just sounds wrong, even though it may be grammatically correct. Those are the moments you have to pick… will you be a scientist or an artist?) Whose and who’s is the contraction thing again. Who’s = who is. Whose is possessive. “Whose was this MOC?” she asked. “Who’s the one who needs a taste of my blade?” I retorted. Alot. Which is not a word, even though it gets used a lot. Than vs. then. Than is a comparison. A sauna is better than living on the sun. Because if you lived on the sun, then you would burn up. Should of should’ve been should have. Complement vs. compliment. I was going to say that you could compliment someone regarding their ability to complement you but then I realized that you could kind of do that either way. But a compliment is something you say and complement is something you do, or something you put on a hot dog. Farther vs. further. Farther is strictly referring to distance. Otherwise, use further. The dangling -ing. Running full speed, the table broke in pieces when Sally made impact. Last I heard, tables couldn’t run despite their four legs. Just remember this: the thing right after the comma must be the subject, i.e. the person doing the -inging. Except vs. accept. Except is about taking something out. Accept is about bringing it in. Breath vs. breathe. When you breathe you take a breath. Run-on sentences. Some people just keep writing, no periods, there really should be periods, new sentences should be starting, you can’t just join two sentences with a comma, it’s not proper gwammar. Fragments. An incomplete sentence. A sentence without a verb. All fragments. Fragments are not bad, they’re stylistic. But only when they’re intentional. It’s the difference between accidentally forgetting to stick two bricks completely together and purposefully leaving a crack between them. There are more, but I’ll stop with this: by far the most common error is not proofreading. So please, proofread. I mean seriously now, if you’re not willing to read your own story over, who do you expect to read it? (Whom do you expect to read it? Nah, sorry, artist here…) So there you have it – five writing tools to hang in your arsenal next to those photography tips and SNOT techniques. Hopefully they were helpful or at least entertaining. If you’ve got some expertise in this area by all means share it! This is far from the writing guide to end all writing guides – it’s more like the writing guide to begin ‘em. And a shout out to those of you who’ve been writing GoH stories for years, you’ve given the guilds the restful feel of an old library. There’s so much here and it’s a pleasure just to look around. Keep telling those brick inspired stories!
  21. First of all a big thanks to @Stephan for all the assistance and @polymaker for Brick Studio software, I couldn't have made the following video tutorial with you. Few weeks ago as I noticed LDD was being updated by the community, I got a crazy idea... Is there a way to import an object into LDD so you can use it as a reference? Having this kind of an option would make designing scale models much easier and faster. I asked @Stephan for his input and he managed to provide the first ever working example of this idea. Since then I learned how to import any 3D model into LDD and have therefore created this tutorial. In the following video tutorial I go through the process of importing any 3D object to LDD. I think the implications of this possibility are simply HUGE across all Lego themes and it's my hope this tutorial will help and inspire you all.
  22. Hi! New MOC is ready, Rey's Speeder The project has 129 bricks, so construction was very fast. I have prepared a tutorial for this project for, you will be able to build this vehicle yourself. The vehicle appeared in The Force Awakens movie, Rey use this speeder on Jakku to collect scrap metal etc. MOC is also available on Rebrickable with list of parts: OF BRICKS/reys-speeder/?inventory=1#comments FREE MOVIE TUTORIAL PDF Instructions is also available to purchase (2,5 EUR) - ask me on
  23. After a recent trip to the local pick-a-brick wall, I found myself with a ton of 1x2x2/3 light bley curved slopes and set to work building an old-fashioned passenger wagon to accompany my recently renovated locomotive. I was quite pleased with the result, so I decided to build a second one and document the process for others. Please note that some parts used reflect my limited inventory and can be substituted. Here's a link to the Flickr album for reference. I'm undecided about red or dark red (or possibly brown) for the stripe - which one do you prefer? Thanks for looking and I hope this helps - feel free to post your modifications, improvements, and recolors here! Soli Deo Gloria
  24. Legostone

    Tutorial: Building Masts

    Hello everyone! As nobody else seems to be interested in making a tutorial for building masts, I'll have to do it myself! If you happen to have more techniques for making masts or just want to thank me for it - off course only after reading the full tutorial - go ahead and either show them or do what you think is necessary! This topic is just about building the masts, not the ship, ship, sails, sails, sails or the rigging, all those have separate topics. If you feel like there is something missing from this topic just tell me. Edit 1: Further tricks to stabilise connections between mast sections by Ejred: click here So, lets start: Lets begin in the year 1989. The Black Seas Barracuda just got released. It contains some interesting pieces, which I'll show first: Some of these parts were released later, but still fit well with these masts. Lets see what one could do with these masts: One could simply combine the different Mast sections, or: Stack them above each other. Could also be combined with another technique I show later on. Then there are the new Mast parts - first released with the 4+ Pirate ship which can also be combined with other techniques: And, as expected, one can just stack these above each other: I'll not show more of these, if anyone wants to show all the possibilities these give you go ahead! Now, on to parts that are useful to custom Mast building: Technic axles. There are also a 16 stud long one and a 32 stud long one, I didn't put those on this picture though. Technic bushes. All kinds of them. These can be combined to form the upper part of a mast: Just lengthen these sections and put them ontop of your bottom mast part - or use them where ever you see them fit. If you want to reinforce the round ones you can use flex tubes: Which are available in many colours and length, but they are, as the name suggests, flexible. Other parts that can be used for masts are these: I'll go into more detail with the 2x2 and 4x4 round ones now, as those are the most interesting ones for the biggest part of the mast. One can use a 32 long technic axle to get a decently sized mast going. But what if that isn't enough? Or maybe that is not exactly the length you want? Then the next part might be the solution for you: For this example we'll use two sections of 15 2/3 studs height and 3 platforms; this technique can be applied to any sensible size. I recommend at least two platforms to make it sturdy though. As you can see a 32 stud long axle is not exactly fitting for this kind of mast - the mast would just break of right above it. So, you ask, what do we use instead? Flex tubes? Those are both flexible and not exactly cheap to acquire in decent length - and you might even have to cut them. No, we'll use this instead: You need some round 1x1 plates in a colour that doesn't clash with your existing design, a pair of scissors (which won't be used to cut pieces nor will it be build into the mast), a technic pin, a technic axle of your choice (I'm using an 8 stud long one here, but you can use any length you like and a bit of string with a diameter of around 1mm. Warning! If you use this technique the technic pin and maybe one of the 4x4 round bricks with technic holes might be damaged. Next you take a bit of string that is a bit longer than your mast: I've taken a bit to much here, but rather take to much than to little. Next, you tie it to the technic pin: It just needs to be tied around in a way that the string won't move away if you pull on the string. Then you just pull it through your mast: Note: the technic pin is at the upper end, not connected to anything, just hanging there. Now you put the mast back together and pull the string tight. Next we use the technic axle to fix the string at the bottom and also give us a way to mount this mast really securely in our ship. Don't cut off the remains of the string just jet. While pushing the technic axle in, pull a bit on the string. Now, the part which might hurt some of you: You have to pull the string (which you just tightened with the axle) around to insert the technic pin into one of the pin holes on the round 4x4 brick with pinholes. Don't losen the technic axle for this, the string is a tiny bit flexible which should still allow this. Now that we've done this, it is time to check if this mast is already strong enough for our course: Well, this isn't strong enough for me(it might be for some of you - this already takes a bit of force), so lets go on and use some of those round 1x1 plates that I said to have ready: You see this gap? That is where you'll place your 1x1 round plates. It doesn't exactly matter if you go side by side or around, just place 4 of them. It should look like this now: In my case, this was sturdy enough. If it isn't in your case, just add those plates to the top platform too. Note: There are alternative solutions to the technic pin; for me it is the easiest solution - especially as both parts at risk are quite cheap. I've given some examples at how to built the upper mast, but if you feel like adding more examples go for it - I don't know everything about masts either. Also, excuse the bad lighting in some of these pictures - I hope everything is still well visible.