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Hello everyone, This is my design for the LEGO Rebrick Freighter Wars contest (building your own YT Corellian light freighter). Here's a link to the entry with additional pics: https://www.lego.com/en-us/rebrick/view-entry. The Dashing Banshee is named after the Corellian Banshee bird and upgraded with everything available in terms of speed and concealment. The YT-1300 light freighter was refitted to be used as a courier ship. It is equipped with technology to escape, elude and hide from any pursuer. Sporting no visible weaponry helps to keep a low profile. The model was designed from scratch in LDD and consists of 5173 parts. I went for a smooth design based on the original YT-1300 with some distinctive modifications. Hope you like it!
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Hello everyone, When the Rebrick contest was announced i was very excited to enter, more so because you get to design your own YT design, a day or so after the contest went up i started drawing my concepts. (WARNING !!: Creppy drawings incoming !) As you can see the final design it's basiclly a rotated Falcon design, the docking tube is now on the back, instead of having two it has one with the cockpit on it, i moved the engines and added two more and so on. Now i had to build it... and that's were the fun began ! So i proudly present you *drums play* the Night Shadow. And here's a crappy description of it: Equipped with a dual new generation SRB45 sublight engine & 2 ion engines: "She's so fast you won't be able to see her shadow". With heavy canons and turrets she has more that your avarage light freighter. Here are some fun facts about the model -This build was heavily inspired by the brilliant new UCS Falcon and Marshall Banana's legendary MOC, since they're the ultimate renditions of the YT-1300 in my opinion, it only made sense to me to base this model after those, plus it gives it the messy Corellian Freighter look i was going for. - I went for a UCS/minifig scale to add as much detail as possible. -I came up with the design after 3 attemps (as seen on the drawings), it was inspired by the YV-560, YT-1300, YT-2400, The Phantom and a hamburger. -The model (YT-2001) and it's service tag (S-04) are a reference to the birth date and name of someone really important to me -I wanted to give it the kitbashed look that the Falcon has, since they used that technique on the actual prop, i used a variety of pieces for this, from tiles to minifig accesories, have fun looking at the greebling ! -It took me about 3 weeks to finish this ship, from the concept art to the final renders. -This model has 3980 pieces and was built on LDD and rendered on Bluerender (since i didn't have the money to build this). -This model is ment to be in scale with minifigs & the new UCS Falcon. Here are some extra pictures of it: So there ya go ! I hope you all like it, if you do or don't please leave your thoughts ! I am more than happy to recieve feedback. Here's the Rebrick entry in case you wanna take a look at this and the rest of the awesome entries: https://www.lego.com/en-us/rebrick/view-entry?c_id={D9DDC962-F589-417F-AE7A-3F6807969D67}&a_id=8da905d9-ba0d-421d-87d7-bb759d48c8ae May the force be with you ! -Prime
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Prologue: Following the countless hours I productively wasted last year building a 10143 UCS Death Star II (link here), via Bricklink, I’ve been looking for another project. Next on my list was the 10030 UCS Star Destroyer, but after sourcing about 50% of the parts I admitted defeat as I couldn’t obtain several of the rarer ones inside Europe. I briefly debated building an Endor Landing platform, using instructions which I’d purchased from Ebay, but it wasn’t going to big enough for my UCS shuttle so that was the end of that. Back to the drawing board, ho hum. To be honest, since I’d ‘Bricklinked’ the Death Star, normal sets (the ones that come in a box with all of the parts in numbered plastic bags) seem a bit too easy somehow... and I like a challenge!! I considered numerous options, but kept circling back to the idea of a UCS Falcon. I would like to say that I did try to stop myself from starting this for several weeks, but finally gave in. My wife gave me her, classic, disappointed look when I mentioned my plan to her and, to be fair, she did have a point as I already own one! My logic: My current Falcon is the third one I’ve owned (long story) and I paid £750 for it MISB a couple of years ago just before the prices got really silly. I built it once and displayed for a week in a darkened room before my irrational fear of dust & light damage made me disassemble it and return it to the safety of its packing box. Hence, there was some logic to this project after all....if I could build one (relatively) cheaply I could then display it long-term without any fear of i) daylight ii) dust or iii) one day finding our cat asleep on it!! Now I know that this project has been well-documented before by BobBongo and jFox but I thought you might like to see how my project develops, building it my way. Firstly, I’ll admit that I’m rather OCD about Lego; it has to be new! Secondly, I wanted to see how cheaply this could be done, keeping to the original colours wherever it was sensible to do so. Some of the costs I’ve seen for building one seemed ridiculously high and I was determined to do better, at least that was the plan.... My Strategy: Firstly I checked the Lego PAB website to see what parts were readily available to set a ‘benchmark’ cost. Next, using a spreadsheet, I recorded the cost of the parts which were available in four of my favourite stores, not overly scientific but it was a useful starting point. Using a few formulas I estimated that I could do this for about £550, give or take some postage. Before I forget I’d like to pass on my thanks to both gizmocom and KRAM who supplied a total of 1,541 parts, in 50 and 67 lots respectively. Their excellent service deserves a shameless plug; both sellers are 100% Lobot recommended! Bricklink: I’m not an expert in Bricklink, but if you haven’t sourced a lot of parts before, I can offer the following advice: i) Buy within your own country wherever possible; the cost of long-distance postage really adds up after a while. If you’re in the UK also be very wary of any potential Import taxes so try and order from the EU if you need to go further afield; I got stung a couple of years ago and it resulted in a cheap purchase from the US being a very expensive one!! ii) Don’t get too obsessed about saving the odd penny here and there; it’s far more important to minimise the total number of orders. During my searches I set myself a minimum 100 (ish) parts per order; otherwise the postage gets prohibitive. iii) Having said that, I’ve adopted a policy of ‘grabbing’ parts wherever I could. For example the Falcon requires 243 x 3021 ‘Light Bluish Gray Plate 2 x 3’; these are £0.10 from PAB, so that’s £24.30 unsurprisingly. However, if you can buy 20 @ £0.07 from a seller, as part of a larger order, you’ve just saved yourself £0.60. Now that doesn’t sound much but if you manage to source all 243 for that you’ll save £7.29, as long as you don’t incur any additional postage charges. I’ve found that most sellers use weight bands (0-250g, 250-500g etc) so provided you keep a careful eye on the total weight of each order, via the shopping basket, you can make significant savings. For my orders I estimated that the weight of the packaging would be a maximum of 30g, so kept all 250g orders below 220g. iv) PAB can look expensive for some parts, but for some they’re unbeatable (for example the 3069b ‘Light Bluish Gray Tile 1 x 2 with Groove’ & 3068b ‘Light Bluish Gray Tile 2 x 2 with Groove’); also they have a fixed shipping charge which can be very helpful if it’s a large order. You need to bear in mind that lots of plates will be heavy, and even if you can get them slightly cheaper on Bricklink the cost of postage may eliminate any potential saving. v) Don’t automatically disregard sellers with only a small (ish) parts inventory or feedback. By using the Bricklink filters I used several with 50-150 feedbacks; their service was at the same level as those with 1000+ and frequently their price per part was significantly less. Progress to date: I managed to find 414 new parts from my own collection before I started ordering. These were mainly small Technic connecters etc and realistically they were probably worth £15. During the last 6 weeks I’ve made a total of 13 orders for 3,747 parts at a cost of £374.74, excluding my own stock. 6 orders were from the UK, 3 from the Netherlands, 2 from Germany, 1 from Denmark & 1 from Belgium. Including my own stock this adds up to 4,161 parts, or 80.42% of the set which I’m quite pleased with, breakdown as follows: Orders Parts Total Cost (£) Cost per part (£) Source Own 414 £0.00 0 N/A 1 873 £46.99 £0.05 UK 2 668 £36.52 £0.05 UK 3 443 £42.68 £0.10 UK 4 343 £37.40 £0.11 Denmark 5 311 £34.46 £0.11 UK 6 147 £28.35 £0.19 Netherlands 7 103 £20.56 £0.20 Netherlands 8 100 £30.22 £0.30 Germany 9 111 £15.70 £0.14 UK 10 96 £12.30 £0.13 Belgium 11 206 £24.76 £0.12 Netherlands 12 98 £13.82 £0.14 UK 13 248 £30.98 £0.12 Germany To date 12 orders have arrived, totalling 3,913 parts (75.63%). So, what does this look like? Scroll down to find out: A large box: Han in part heaven (insert the music to American Beauty here): And what can I build so far: “She may not look like much, but she’s got it where it counts”...Han paused and then, with a deep sigh, continued...”Ok kid, I’ll admit it’s total rubbish” I’ve just made two orders for another 457 parts, including the technic beams, so I should be able to make some tangible progress soon. I add another update soon. Cheers, Robin
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Apologies if this is the wrong place or a repeat topic - With the possible re-issue of rare parts on the upcoming MF I am wondering what impact the community thinks it will have on older sets that feature rare parts. For me as a collector that came in late I have always sorta justified the cost by telling myself that I could make my money back with little risk. Because I am cheap and waited a very long time to get the right seller to come along and did not pay the huge amounts that others did. But I still have a large investment that I would be stupid to not be concerned about. Just wanted to see what the prevailing opinion is on the topic. My opinion is that a re-issue of a set that has different elements and build techniques doesn't change the value of the older set by much. But when they re-issue a set with possibly two of the most rare elements I feel like it deals a huge blow to the older sets value. That being said I would not be the owner of a 10179 had the 75192 not unsettled the market...
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Hey guys I was wondering...is this a UCS set? It has a UCS plaque but there is no UCS symbol on the box. It has 1106 parts which is low for UCS but not the lowest ever. So is it, or is it not a UCS set?
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Hey guys, I'm looking to start a UCS scale star wars project but I don't know what to build? I've looked and almost all the ships, vehicles...anything, has already been done either as a Moc or an official Lego set. I'm planning to make instructions for this once I'm finished and sell them for quite cheap (Probably around $5 CAN) so if anyone can give me an idea that I end up doing, when I have the instructions I can give them to you for free. I just need some help finding the perfect Star Wars "Thing" to UCS. (Sorry, I'm using UCS as a verb...rip) Thanks!
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I have a long term project of “refreshing” all of the UCS sets, so that any unique or rare parts are replaced with modern and readily available alternatives. I initially dismissed 7194 as impossible due to the use of sand green bricks for Yoda’s skin. Many parts were virtually unique to the set, and the much sought-after 3450 Statue of Liberty (the only other major sand green parts pack) had driven the prices of even used bricks to an insane high. I tried changing the skin to Olive Green but the limited parts selection and the lack of snot bricks made this impossible. I was about to give up entirely, when I saw the beautiful 70612 Ninjago Movie Green Ninja Mech Dragon. Featuring sand green 2x2, 2x3 and 2x6 plates, and with other 1x4, 1x3 and 1x2 plates available from various sets released in the last couple of years, I thought I might just be able to pull this off. I did. The original set was released in 2002 and contained 1075 parts. Unusually for a UCS set, there was no formal "ultimate collector series" name on the box, and no plaque to accompany the model. My update preserves the look of the original and weighs in at 1202 pieces. The head has been completely redesigned - it is visually identical to the original, but it uses a completely different selection of pieces drawn from the current palette of sand green parts. A few rare sand green parts have unfortunately had to be left in: 1x1 plates haven’t been seen in sand green since 2004, but I got the number down from 33 to 11, 2x2 corner plates, last seen in 2011, I got the number down from 78 to 4. The remaining ones serve a structural purpose and cannot be removed. I also had to leave in the 2x2 plates with rails to preserve Yoda’s ridged noise and mouth. These were last seen in the 2014 set 10241 Maersk Line Triple-E, which is a collectible set but the part is at least relatively easy to get. The body is largely unchanged, except that the dark orange bricks have been replaced with more readily available bricks (mainly 1x2 and 1x6). To allow these changes, the model introduces a few extra structural parts (shown here in bright yellow). These are not visible from the outside and any available colour can be used; my preference is for dark bluish grey. It should also be noted that the old greys used in this set have been updated to the modern bluish greys, and the old brown used for Yoda’s walking stick has been changed to the modern reddish brown. You can view this model on mecabricks, and download the LDD file from bricksafe. I haven't made an instruction manual since these brick built sculptures don't seem to be very popular amongst the fans, but Ill put one together if there's enough interest. Disclaimer: This is a digital MOC/MOD of the 7194, and has not been tested in real life with real bricks. While every effort has been made to ensure that the bricks would interlock securely, this may not always be the case and the final assembly may turn out to be very fragile.
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Hi all, Sharing my WIP MOC of the Clone Wars era Y-Wing UCS scale. I did a colour swap from yellow to red on the 8037 kit and then thought why not adapt the UCS Y-Wing to the same original Clone Wars style....this is the first pass at that MOC. Update - I've amended the engines (see later post and pics below) and cleaned up the colours and engine fins a tad. A few more phone pics at http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=565968 - once I'm fully happy with it I'll do some better ones. I still need to sort out the engine fin/ribs as they are unattached at the front and hence pull outward, undercarriage needs doing and some general tidying up. I think the biggest issue will be engine droop, so need to have a think about that, plus figuring out a way of changing out the grey 18897's. Anyway any feedback/improvements/ideas welcome...
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Hey guys! This is an older creation of mine, but I just realized I hadn't yet posted it here. This set takes inspiration, of course, from the official Boba Fett UCS, as well as from an old partially completed MOC by Flickr user Maelven . The set started after the official release of the UCS Boba Fett Slave 1. I didn't like some of the transitions on the Official UCS, so I set about modifying the set. My favorite set that I owned as a kid was the Jango Fett Slave 1 (7159), so naturally I had to have a Jango Fett color scheme. A lot of the parts on the lower dish of the official set are not available in dark blue, so a redesign was required. However, I also felt the official design was a bit blocky, so I hoped I could make some improvements along the way.
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I Made a Replica of Marshall Banana's 7500pc Lego Millennium Falcon (Instructions!)
Brick Customs posted a topic in LEGO Star Wars
Last year I stumbled across Marshall Banana's massive, and exquisitely detailed Millennium Falcon MOC. I was quite impressed by the model as it makes Lego's official UCS appear quite pitiful in comparison. I had always felt Lego's UCS was a bit blocky looking (even for Lego) to begin with. After discovering Marshall Banana's custom, my first thought was "I'm going to build this one day." I tossed it into my browser's bookmark folder and didn't think about it for another four months or so. It was then that I decided to open a new project in LDCad and "just mess around with it." A couple of months and 200 hours later, I had a complete digital model. 60 hours after that, I had a complete real model. Finally another 70 hours and I had a complete instruction manual. Youtube | Ultimate Lego Millennium Falcon | Timelaps Build My model, while a very near twin of Marshall Banana's masterpiece, also boasts a number of upgrades and improvements throughout. I did succumb to using some "cheater" moves to avoid some techniques I didn't like. Most notably, I didn't like the technique used for the rear engines that involved bending stacked 1x2 plates. It put way too much tension on the bricks that would inevitably lead to cracking. My solution was to use 1/8 brass hobby rod as a 3mm rigid hose alternative and arrange the greeble and engine details into clip-on sections. This lead to another fix for the upper and lower edges of the engines. MB seemed to achieve a slight angle by attaching the pieces unevenly on the studs (assuming I interpreted correctly from the pictures). I really didn't like this, so I added another 1/8 rod at the correct height to allow the pieces to clip in and rest at the correct angle. I've made numerous other modifications including a number of shape adjustments to the shell plates to allow them to fit more evenly. View full Flickr album here. -
This model is heavily inspired by Icemann on Flickr. The build contains 555 pieces. All of the legs are articulated and the head rotates. Please give me feedback on the model as this is my first post and I worked very hard designing the model and the display plaque.
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One of my favorite movies is Guardians of the Galaxy. I still remember sitting in the theater in total awe of the ship that Peter was flying, the Milano. I knew that if LEGO ever came out with a set that I HAD to get one! And then..there was more...and more...and then Tyler Clites revealed the UCS sized version. OMG....now that's a build. So, when LEGO came out with set 76081 after the release of Guardians of the Galaxy 2, I got one...enjoyed the build. I hadn't realized that they came out with a larger build for the original movie, set 76021 which for some weird reason has bright orange accents instead of orange. I also picked up the mini Milano too. After that, I found the instructions for the UCS by Tyler Clites. I decided to go for it and shortly after that, I found the micro sized version also by Tyler Clites. I decided to replace the bright orange pieces on set 76021 with the proper orange accents as well as modify the windshield to match the others. And so, this is the result of my madness! The only thing was that I wasn't able to put the lime green "accent" piece on the micro version because it wouldn't fit without making contact with the other "claw" pieces. Any suggestions on what to do there? And the sets: LEGO Micro Milano by Tyler Clites LEGO 30449 Mini Milano LEGO 76081 Milano LEGO 76021 Milano with modications LEGO UCS Milano by Tyler Clites 5 LEGO Milano builds by Jason Tang, on Flickr
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I’ve been working on this one for quite some time, on and off since 2008, but I finally managed to finish it right in time, so it would be the first real MOC I present to celebrate the Star Wars 40th Anniversary. My design goal was to build accurate rather than just big, so I chose the official UCS set scale (10030), big enough for all important details to fit in yet compact enough to be manageable and sturdy. It’s even swooshable to a certain extent. But I can’t build bigger than that or else things start to bend and break. The challenge with this design was to bring all the angles and orientations together without compromise; the hull plate orientation is perpendicular to the center-line to align with the tower and the docking bay, while the edge is perpendicular to the slope to make a perfect contour line with the side greebling. The tower’s “ceiling” is tilted to the same angle as the hull slope while the levels details which represent the “floors” are perfectly horizontal as they should be. The hull is also built around a tough chassis balanced only on one pillar to expose all bottom hull details for photography; the pillar fits in an opening right at the core of the chassis without the need for pins so it could be installed or uninstalled easily. Hull parts are fixed by Technic links for the bottom part and magnets for the top so it can be easily removed like a modular build. I wanted to work more on the presentation but I had to upload the MOC as soon as possible to catch up with the celebration… I’ve got many more MOCs coming up, and not enough time to do everything perfectly, so I hope this simple presentation is good enough for now. I hope you guys enjoy this one. LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 1 4k by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 2 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 3 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 4 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 6 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 8 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 9 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 10 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 12 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr LEGO Star Wars - Star Destroyer 16 4K by Khaled Yousef, on Flickr
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Hi all! I hope I'm doing this correctly?! I don't usually find my way over to the Star Wars section but wanted to share my Slave 1 with you all! I snagged the idea from a guy on Reddit who added white lights into his Slave 1 to light up the engines, and I loved the look! I knew I had to do it myself. To make it more of my own take on it I decided to change the lights to orange to try and match the engine colour better. I've also swapped out the trans-blue 1x1 tiles on the top engine for trans-orange, and have some trans-orange discs coming to replace the lower blue ones. Anyway, I hope you guys like! I plan on getting some more lights into the cockpit at some stage but didn't think orange would suit in there. You can just about see the battery pack sitting on the stand underneath with a bit of wire showing. I plan to try and hide this a bit better at some point. Signed by the main man himself :) Played around with the photo a bit as it was still light out when I took pictures... Lastly, the back! I might try and fill the last 3 holes with either more LED's to make the bottom engines brighter but if I did 6 at the bottom I'd only have 8 for the top (there's currently 14). Bonus pic - quick photo of just after I put them in. I pulled the curtain shut to try and get it a little darker but even then it was still quite light and they stand out ok. I need to change the 8x1 brick at the top for a flat 8x1 so it sits flush again, but other than that, and swapping trans-blue for trans-orange I've not amended the build. I hope you guys enjoyed!
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Hello guys. Lately I'm having fun with LEGO and stop motion. I want to share this last video with you. Hope you like it.
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I managed to get ahold of a UCS Tie Fighter in an Amazon lightning deal for $130 last year. I wasn't interested in the set itself and was hoping I'd be able to sell it on the aftermarket, but considering how it's still only going for around $180 on Bricklink, I'm not sure if my return on investment would be that high. I'm planning to buy one larger set before I take a break from LEGO over the next year, so I thought I might be able to trade the Tie Fighter instead of selling it. Here are the three top options I'm considering right now: - Trade it now for a 70751 Temple of Airjitzu (same RRP) - Wait a few months and then trade it for the Destiny's Bounty and City Chase from the Ninjago Movie line - Keep it until it's discontinued, then sell it (hopefully value will have increased by then) I might also be willing to trade it for another $200 set or bundle of sets, depending on who's interested. This is my first time attempting to make a transaction like this, so if anyone has any suggestions, or is interested in buying/trading for the set, I would really appreciate it.
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I am currently working on a Ghost MOC from Star Wars Rebels. I'm basing the design of DarthTwoShedsJackson's Ghost. I really dislike the original Lego set because its too small and has no interior. I'm making it UCS scaled and it would really help if anyone could give me some advice.
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I am currently working on a Ghost MOC from Star Wars Rebels. I'm basing the design of DarthTwoShedsJackson's Ghost. I really dislike the original Lego set because its too small and has no interior. I'm making it UCS scaled and it would really help if anyone could give me some advice.
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This is my MOC of a minifig-scale U-Wing from Rogue One. While the official set was one of my favourite sets, it fell short in many regards and decided to make my own. I encountered a few problems while building it, such as attaching the engines which I rectified with the usage of click-hinges and it was overall a good problem-solving experience. The ship features a compartment for 6 minifigs and two pilots, radio control area, and swiveling and locking wings. Measures 75 centimeters in length. LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC LEGO U-Wing MOC
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Hello Eurobricks! This is my first post, so i figured the best way to start is to display my Imperial Star Destroyer. I based it off set 6211, basically making it more detailed, and building a second top panel to place on the bottom to get the movie accurate shape. I view its as a sort of UCS set for those who can't afford the actual UCS Star Destroyer. There is not interior features, due to the demanding structure of the ship. I tried to get the engine to be mostly movie accurate: Enjoy!
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75144 Snowspeeder™ Ages 14+. 1,703 pieces. US $199.99 – CA $229.99 – DE 199.99€ – UK £169.99 – DK 1799.00 DKK *Euro pricing varies by country. Please visit shop.LEGO.com for regional pricing. Build the ultimate LEGO® Snowspeeder! Collect a true Star Wars classic: the T-47 Snowspeeder. This LEGO® interpretation of the iconic airspeeder that fans will remember from Star Wars: Episode V The Empire Strikes Back has all the details you’d expect, including opening airbrakes, rotating rear gun, and an opening cockpit with space for the included Rebel Snowspeeder Pilot and Rebel Snowspeeder Gunner minifigures. This model also comes with a display stand and fact plaque, so it can take pride of place in any LEGO Star Wars collection. Includes 2 minifigures: a Rebel Snowspeeder Pilot and a Rebel Snowspeeder Gunner. Features intricate, authentic detailing, opening airbrakes, rotating rear gun and an opening cockpit with space for the 2 included minifigures. Attach the Snowspeeder to the stand with fact plaque to display it. Includes 2 blaster pistols. Accessory elements include electrobinoculars, a Snowspeeder Pilot helmet and a Snowspeeder Gunner helmet. Snowspeeder on display stand measures over 8” (21cm) high, 15” (39cm) long and 11” (29cm) wide, and over 4” (11cm) high without stand. Available for sale directly through LEGO® beginning May 4, 2017 via shop.LEGO.com, LEGO® Stores or via phone: US Contact Center 1-800-453-4652 CA (English) Contact Center 1-800-453-4652 CA (French) Contact Center 1-877-518-5346 European Contact Center 00-800-5346-1111
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Hello all, I have decided to resurrect this project from my archive of many unfinished builds. The only problem with this unfinished build is that I do not have any, and I mean any of the pieces ready to start this project. After a failed attempt last winter, I sold my pieces and as I thought back then, I would one day regret that. Today is that day. After the destruction of 6200 pieces all over my floor, I impulsively sold the pieces, as I was frustrated and did not want to rebuild every part of the AT-AT that took me weeks to make. This feeling of not satisfying my crave to build this AT-AT has recently emerged up again, and I am ready to tackle this project once again. Of course this time, I am better prepared. This time around, I must mention that I will use the updated body rather than the original for obvious cost reasons. As for my bricklink process, I am not going to follow the generic style of ordering all pieces and building once I have them all. In fact, what I am going to do this time around is order all the parts for one section (neck, body, or legs, etc.) and build that section once those pieces are in. Now why this may seem like a bad way to minimize cost, which it is, the reason I am doing this is because if I encounter any issues with the build of one section, I can immediately make modifications and focus purely on that section alone while my wallet restocks itself for the next section. I believe that this method will have its benefits that will cancel out its cons, and thus give me a stabler product. Another reason why I am choosing to do this is just in case Cavegod modifies one of his sections. A while back, around February-ish, he stated on the brick set forums (at least I think brickset), that he will be modifying the legs to make them sturdier. Now whether he did this or not is unknown, so I reached out to him and am awaiting his response. As of right now, there are no pieces in my hand that I can use for this MOC. However, I just placed a total of 7 bricklink orders totaling a bit over 700 pieces that will cover all pieces needed for the beast's head. I have decided to start with this because from what I've both heard and experienced, it is the trickiest to get right. This way I have plenty of time to make any adjustments if I notice a weakness that seems repairable, or even just a detail to the head that I want to be included, although there doesn't seem to be anything missing detail wise, credit to Cavegod! I will update as often as possible, mainly when I reach a breakthrough with the process, or when I place orders. I plan on this project taking quite some time to complete as I am going to try, and likely fail, to simply add this to my collection without giving up a current UCS set, although my Imperial Shuttle is a tempting sell for what it's worth! That being said, I am going to put a lot more effort into the AT-AT this time around as I now know that it will be much harder than just looking at LDD and putting the sections together.
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Soooo, being a huge fan of AT-ATs but not mad enough to try and make Rocco's/Cavegod's creations, i thought i would have a go at something that was accurate, almost as big and not kill your bank account buying all the pieces. As of now its just an LDD design, must give a massive shout out to the lego gods Rocco and Cavegod for inspiration, i followed many design cues but tried to scale down and put my own spin on it. Also a shout out to rx79gez8gundam and his AT-AT design, i hadn't clocked his work till id almost finished mine and noticed how similar the legs were, total coincidence but seeing as he posted his way before mine im giving props to him and his great work. So as it stands it still needs some work to the frame and neck joint but its designed to hold the head strong. Im hoping it will be strong enough AND have space inside for troops but thats still to be figured out. At the moment its about 3800 pieces but i'll wager it will hover around 4000 when all is said and done. I'm sure someone could streamline it and maybe get it to 3500, im not a Lego genius like some on here :D Anyway here she is.... ps:pics are a bit small and blurry, no idea whats happening there, site is resizing them?
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Hi, Some years ago I made some general requests about the possibilities to collect pieces to make a discontinued Lego set. Dunno if it was here or elsewhere, but I was fairly unaware of Bricklink and similar sites back then. The answers I got was that it was most likely no good idea to collect pieces, better to get the set complete. Somewhat discouraged by this I dropped the idea. 20160907_212210 by Jens, on Flickr Fast forward to this spring, when I rediscovered my interest for Lego and made a big leap into the world of AFOLs. I don't remember what started it, but the idea of getting the dream set was once again back. I got the first two UCS sets back in 2000 (X-wing and TIE interceptor) and ever since I laid my eyes on the Y-wing I wanted it. Considered it too expensive for me back then, I never bought it, something I regretted much. 20160619_185246 by Jens, on Flickr Now. To cut a long story short. I did it. I decided to get myself a 10134 UCS Y-wing. But not by paying a ridiculously amount of money for a complete set. Well, ridiculously amount for me anyway. I started off by digging into my childhood lego boxes, well aware of that it would give me worn pieces in wrong/old colors. I managed to get a fair amount of the pieces just by digging, about 33%. The rest of the pieces took about three months to get, mainly using bricklink. 20160905_175109 by Jens, on Flickr It's "easy" to get the dream set of yours. It's only a matter of money. The real challenge is to get it for a reasonable price. I quickly replaced too expensive parts with cheaper alternatives. It's a trade-off, I know, but ok for me. I tried to be as truthful to the original as possible. It required some minor "redesign" in order to get the price on a fair level. 20160906_164539 by Jens, on Flickr So. Here I am. I'm still waiting for some parts, and I will use the possibility to print stickers myself (I have a friend that can do this for me). I managed to get my dream set, or at least something very close to it, for a bit under ~150 Eur. And boy, is this set awesome! This is my fourth UCS (others being X-wing (first one), TIE interceptor and Slave-I). 20160906_195126 by Jens, on Flickr More pics can be found on my flickr, below. The moral of the story? Well, you CAN get that set you've always longed for, and for a reasonable price (per piece). It's a matter of patience, creativity and well, money. :) Next project will be... the holy grail of Star Wars Lego. Nuff said :D My flickr for Lego: Jens at Flickr
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So I was thinking about bricklinking a UCS Tantive IV but when I was going through some of the parts I noticed that some of the dark red pieces were extremely expensive, as in 11 wheels for over $20 each expensive, as well as a few other pieces. However, I got over my immediate sulk that I could not do it by figuring out an alternative. That night I watched Revenge of the Sith and saw the Tantive IV with a different color scheme, immediately pausing the movie and sprinting to my desktop to open up LDD. I imported the original model and changed all Red pieces to Blue, all Dark Red pieces to Dark Blue, and all Tan pieces to Black. The result was a lot cooler than I would have thought, and honestly, I like it a little better with this color scheme. Obviously there are a few pieces that do not exist in Dark Blue, but luckily for me there are spray-paint cans that exist in Dark Blue. I know, I know, spray-painting Lego is so crazy, so against purists, but hey I am only painting because the pieces do not exist in Dark Blue. As of right now, I do not have a current time expectancy for this project, but I will try my best to get it done as quick as possible, a new Graphics Card and a new Camera are not helping my funds out very much
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