BEAVeR

Star Wars Regulator
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About BEAVeR

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    'Dark Force Bigger Wall of Text'!
  • Birthday 06/13/1995

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  1. BEAVeR

    nano-Snowspeeder, 2020 edition

    Yes, the trade-offs are never-ending! The only solution I still see to get rid of the stud would be to use those amphitheater tiles (24246) to cap things off nicely. But you would have to give up that stud representing the end of the cannons. Unless you use part 4590, but that could be a bit too deep and I'm not sure how well it would line up. Anyway, thanks for indulging me thusfar!
  2. BEAVeR

    nano-Snowspeeder, 2020 edition

    Totally understandable that you already thought of all the things I suggested . I really like your update, especially with how the canons now flow so nicely into the back of the ship! If you would flip the direction those 1x2 plates with rounded ends are facing and connect them to the clip light using a 1x1 round tile with bar, you would loose the gradual connection, but it would allow you to use a tile instead of the antistud we see now and it would get rid of the extra studs visible in the back. Not sure if it would really be an improvement. Finally, have you considered using a 1x2 ingot tile instead of a regular flat tile to cover the cockpit? It gives some nice shaping on the sides (although you will end up with a bit of a lip at the front of the cockpit. And as a bonus, the moulding of those parts is such that they have some rectangular dimples which almost exactly match the roof window of the cockpit, so you wouldn't even need custom stickers then. And I will remember that posing stand technique! That Bionicle eye element makes for a really great foot too. Evokes ice and speed to me, perfect for this model!
  3. BEAVeR

    nano-Snowspeeder, 2020 edition

    Hehe, building these micro scale vehicles really is a lot of thinking about every single piece, right? To my feeling no. 4 looks the most "right". You call it chiby, but if you look at it, so is the original model I would say. I also really like that rounded 1x2 plate behind the cockpit that beefs it up a bit. A couple of years ago, I was also trying to work something out with those small Technic wing panels, have they have that cut angle which matches the nose shape of the snowspeeder. It didn't work out for the scale I was going for (just a bit smaller than you here), but maybe it's a part you might be interested in checking out to, just to give you some more options . As for the back, maybe it is possible to take two of those 1x1 round plates with bar, put those bars in a couple of studs, turn them out and use some 1x1 round plates to crate the grill effect. I have my doubts the geometry would work out, but the advantage would be that you would have some studs on the side to attach some cheese slopes to fill up the space between the grill and the wings. And as a final thought, can you shift those 1x1 plates with clip light one stud forward and do the wing attachment using a 1x2 plate with technic pin hole? That would create a really nice gradient in radius to replicate the cannons more. Plenty of ideas to go to version 12 and beyond But even if none of it would work out, the versions you have look amazing already and would give wonderful life to any diorama!
  4. BEAVeR

    [MOC] MINIs from Clone Wars - 4 models

    I love these! I've always had a soft spot for micro builds and yours do a wonderful job of scratching my itch! Some micro builds really revolve around some kind of crazy parts usage that makes you think "that's really cool!" but quite often they are just a gimmick and the actual shaping of the vehicles are very approximate. Not so with your tiny vessels that very cleanly capture the essence of their larger counterparts. You really make it look easy and at no point was I under the impression of "he had to make that compromise because it's a micro build". No, everything fits together wonderfully and you paid attention to every possible angle of your builds. For example I really like how neatly the wing of the Twilight folds fits so snugly when it is folded and how that plate with handle comes from an angle you don't expect. Or how the cheese slopes on the Trident perfectly follow the contour of the bottom cone. Or how you took the effort to create that continuous blue stripe accross the center of the Hyena, no matter how much more difficult it makes the structural challenges. And of course how you captured the gentle slope of the fuselage of the Y-wing, a technique you would normally only see in UCS scale models but that you managed to get down to this small scale. Very nice stuff! Your builds also work very inspirational. When watching them, I immediately had some thoughts to just maybe improve them a bit more... - For the Twilight, maybe you could use a 1x2 plate with the handle on the long side and with two supports in the middle instead of the 1x2 plate with door rail. Those supports would mimick the kind of fins you see in the "mouth" of the reference vehicle. - Also for the Twilight, you could replace the 1x1 cheese slope with a 1x1 tile and instead place the cheese slope one brick more towards the front of the ship. That would replicate the shape of the ship more accurately, I think. - For the Trident, it could be cool to use one of these 1x1 tiles with Arkenstone print as a cockpit, or one of those now 1x1 round jewel tiles from Dots to make it look more mechanical than organic. - For the Y-wing, you could use these 1x2 curved slopes with 45 degree cut on the rear fuselage to suggest the diagonal shaping and coloring in that part, tying in nicely with the head of the ship. Also, any particular reason you used that grey grill tile? It doesn't appear on the source model, but I agree that it does give some more interest to your model. - For the Hyena, that could maybe be the perfect opportunity to use the new macaroni tiles to smooth everything off. The body is two plates thick in some places already, so it would make it more uniform. Maybe some extra toughts to add to the great number of awesome decisions you already made to create these gems. Keep'em coming, please!
  5. BEAVeR

    (MOC) MLC-3 Light Tank

    Sweet creation, it definitely screams Kenner (and even a bit of Gerry Anderson!) to me. It seems a bit too wide for that cockpit bubble, but I really like that rim with the beveled edge that gives a nice clean shape. Also the presentation is quite effective with the shades of brown perfectly blending together. I like the jagged edge at the front, but it's a bit jarring that this isn't continue at the side, where you have a perfectly straight edge on the base. Still, it looks great and I have no doubt it fits in perfectly on your shelf! I would love to see some more pictures, so let me help you with uploading pictures. First of all, you should know that for an image to be displayed here, the picture should be hosted somewhere. The post you make doesn't automatically contain the image data within itself like an image you paste in a Word document. Instead, it stores a link to an image and retrieves the image from that link when the page is loaded. So you should upload your picture somewhere. Right now, it seems like you uploaded your picture here on Eurobricks. You can do that, but Eurobricks is not a dedicated image hosting website as you have noticed, with those restrictions on file sizes and all. So best thing is to create an account on a dedicated image hosting site. you could try Flickr which has a thriving Lego community in its own right, Instagram which seems to be growing more popular with AFOLs these days or something like Bricksafe, which is just a place to store Lego images and nothing more. And there are of course more sites you could use, but if you want more dedicated advice, you should ask that in the general discussion forum and not here. Anyway, whichever platform you decide on, if you've uploaded a picture there you should get a link to the image somewhere and then you can just paste it in your post and it should turn into an image (if that doesn't work,try the "insert other media" button at the bottom of your post window and paste the link (the actual image URL, not the page URL displayed in your browser bar) there. I hope this helps and that it enables you to start sharing more of your sweet creations!
  6. BEAVeR

    [MOC] Lucrehulk-Class Federation Core Ship

    Quite simply, this kind of construction was what I was referring to as a minimal modification to your original design. Other types of robot/skeleton arms work well too. Since you are just using the pin hole of those Technic bricks, you could just as well replace them with ordinary 1x1 bricks with stud on the side. Using a headlight brick can even bring the grey bows closer to the center without colliding with the central ring. And the extra studs that come available then might be used to attach something to to fill in the gaps between the legs to make the bottom half feel more like a sphere again, but I'm not sure whether such a thing can be done. Anyway, I hope it is clear now and that it might be of some help to you. Rebuilding part of your creation also made me appreciate some new things like how you managed to attach the spheres on both halves. Good stuff!
  7. BEAVeR

    [MOC] Lucrehulk-Class Federation Core Ship

    Hehe, that really looks like an official microfighter! The shape of the sphere indeed looks great, and I like how the ridges in that rim piece look like the texture on the real deal. You could even say that those exposed studs on the top are meant to represent similar features you can see on the versions that appeared in the Clone Wars, so that's not bad at all! My favourite thing about this creation, though, is how the Neimodian and the battle droid sit in it: they just look so happy to go off on an adventure in their wacky spaceship! Definitely the thing that has made me smile the most today! I like how you attached those landing supports because those Technic pieces also do a great job as extra mechanical detailling down there. Still, I'm convinced that you could get even more detail in, I even tried it out in LDD. If instead of that 1x3 Technic piece and a cross axle you use a Technic half pin with stud and put some plates on top of that, one of them being a 1x1 plate with handle, you can also connect those legs and suddenly you have an extra bar to put some details like droid arms or legs (actually those legs of the Grievous figure would be a great match in terms of shape, but I think they would be a bit too big) there to really fill it with details. Also, on the top you could maybe add a binocular piece or some more special pieces than the standard bricks you used now to make it read as small details more. But anyway, a lovely small build! They really look great in that aerial shot you posted above!
  8. Wow, that creation is intense! I love how alive it all looks: none of the figures seem to be deliberately posing, but it just looks like a snapshot from real life, with the Trandoshian eyeing the Mando to see if he can sell him something and the saleswoman keeping an eye on the cloaked figure while the Jawa might use that moment of inattention to snatch something away... You've made a creation in which stories really come naturally, which rewards a good look! But that only comes after you've appreciated the extremely rich textures going on in your build. I love what you did for the ground: it feels like a very refreshing technique to me with such a great variety of parts that still looks cohesive when you squint your eyes. Great idea to also bring in some variation in height to give it detail in all three dimensions. And perfect work on the coloring: it's not a random mishmash, but the colors are grouped and at the same time organic, creating some really nice shapes in what would otherwise be just a flat plane. There really is a lot more to it than meets the eye! It's good that you've differentiated the textures on the buildings from that of the ground, but I still think the contrast is not big enough. Right now, you have the problem that everything really blends together and it's very difficult to make out shapes or to figure out what the focus of your build is because it all feels very similar. In fact, you could see that as a compliment because in the show it's exactly the same, them using the grey uniformity to create a very drab atmosphere. Still, I feel your MOC holds some more potential. I wonder what would happen if you would make some smoother border along the bottom edge of the building and the arc, a kind of clean slate to lift the texture of the wall away from the ground. That way, you would have a clear separation between the two entities which could make it more pleasing to the eye. Some buildings in the show also seem to use this trick. Another advantage would be that the smooth areas that now jump out unintentionally because you had to use smooth parts in those places (like the angled sections of the wall or the big arch pieces), would look more intentional. Maybe another idea would be to steal another trick from the show. I see quite a few images with similar buildings that have a base that is more angled that the rest of the wall. This is interesting, because they the lighting in the shots makes it so that again you get a lighter band separating the building from the ground. So experimenting with some more angles and some more directional lighting could maybe also give you good results while you can still add textures. I hope you can think about these tips to make your next build even better. I'm looking forward to the next chapter in your Mandalorian adventure already! Keep it up with the excellent work!
  9. If I had to go to prison, I hope it would look as nice and clean as your diorama does! You really manage to pack a lot of things in without it feeling too crowded or messy: everything has its alloted space and room to shine. For example, I love how that central command post stands on its own small stage, which really pops from the floor which is both a different color and a different texture. That makes it a very clear focal point in your build, and rightly so, with its interesting way of constructing the consoles (great how you used those 1x1 brackets both as a structural element and a way to give some interesting color patterns). The focus on the central command post is also helped by the fact that all lines point to it: the corridor, the angled doors and walls, the turbolifts, the camera and even the minifigs in your example scene. Of course it's like that in the source material as well (and moreover it makes sense, as real prisons often mimick the same layout such that the central post can overlook all corridors at once), but the fact you picked up on that and managed to maintain it in a simplified, cutaway build, speaks of your attention to detail. I saw you made a design sketch of this model on Flickr, and to me it really shows that you put some careful thought and planning into creating these scenes! I don't think there are many improvements that you could possible make to your creation, but maybe there's still one thing, and that is that the textures in your model feel a little bit flat to me here and there. Using the grill tiles for texture on the floor is nice, but they cover a large area and the same part returns in two other forms in your build which make that particular texture a bit too repetitious. An additional pattern on a different scale in the floor could break things up a bit. For example, in the movie you see that actually the grilled appearance of the floor has been divided up into several sections with some rather thin black stripes in the perpendicular direction. Another example is the smoothness of the walls. On some places you addressed this with some slightly inset panels into the walls, and those sections are amazing. But they also result in the sections that don't have it and are just bare (mainly behind the doors and in the cell) to look flatter in comparison, which could be improved by also adding inset sections or even just by including some textured bricks. Now, they have the same texture as the black outside of the build (the surfaces that are not actually part of the scene but really are the cut-through section), which make the outside and inside flow into each other instead of offering a clear division between focus and "behind the scenes" parts. This could also be improved by making the transition between the dark grey and the black around the central gate of even thickness to really reinforce the cut. I find it really difficult to explain what I really mean and that's because it's something subtle. Something so subtle that it hardly takes away of the wonderful achievement of your build with many great touches, like the texture around the turbolift doors or the fact that you managed to tile off the top of those lifts so neatly. You're definitely a craftsman, so I hope you continue designing these great sets!
  10. BEAVeR

    [MOD/MOC] 75172 Y-Wing "Comet"

    Great job, The_Tinkerer! Personally I'm a big fan of how worn out the original Y-wing looks, but I'm glad you didn't because your redesign is an absolute treat! I love that you did way more than just cover up the naked bits and really made the design our own. You switched the proportions around, made it a dual person cockpit (finally someone to man those guns!) and made everything look a bit sharper, right up to the engine nozzles! I really love the diamond shape you managed to get in there which plays really well of the printing on the cockpit and carries through in the V-shape at the back of the ship. Maybe making the front of the cockpit pointed rather than flat as the original would emphasize this point even more. Also, using round bricks or plates rather than the high panels to make up the engine nacelles could allow you to continue the shape of the blue 2x4 double wedges in the back. You already carried their shape through beautifully with those cheese slopes leading downward, so if you could continue it into the nacelles themselves, that would really make that work stand out even more. Also, something fun to experiment with could be to replace the white domes with an one of those car hood elements to really glue them to the body of the ship. The domes work well in the original because they stick out, but because of the tapering of your main body, the inside part of the dome is squeezed in a tight space in your creation. Really having it transition into the main body therefore would make your ship look even sleeker without betraying the original design. In the end, you made a great redesign of the Y-wing that easily outclasses the Resistance Y-wing we got in the end. It's a perfect blend of faithfullness to the original with the general iconic shape and precense of panels and details on one hand, and fresh and original shaping on the other hand. It's a new classic, and all of that without fancy parts or techniques. You really are a gifted designer! As for the pictures, I helped you out. For more information, check the spoiler below!
  11. Hi macaron35, I moved your post to the General LEGO discussion forum because I don't think it is Star Wars specific. As for an answer to your question, I jdubbs already gives a very valid reason. Sometimes, there are also structural differences where using smaller parts actually results in something stronger than with bigger parts (e.g. using a stack of 3 plates rather than a single brick). Also, LEGO tends to avoid having parts that look similar in the same color or the same part in similar color in order to make it easier for children to find the right part, which could also affect how things are arranged (e.g. all 1x6 plates are black and all 1x8 plates are tan). Finally, in more complex builds, they tend to hide colorful bricks in certain patterns on the inside which acts as landmarks: they help to orient the build in the right way and make it easier to spot on which studs exactly to place the next part. But even then, often I find myself asking the same question as you do when I build something!
  12. BEAVeR

    [O5 - Junction - CS] Snarky Gundark

    Phew, what a relief! For a moment I was convinced that either you or me were suddenly going color blind or were suffering from some acute memory loss. Because that's not the color scheme I remembered the Ebon Hawk having! I should have known this wasn't that ship though, since you put an interesting spin on various aspects of it! Because while you adhered quite closely to the shape and even to the interior layout, you went the extra mile with the detailling. I love the color scheme you have going with the thin green stripes (any reason why at the back of the ship it is thicker? Maybe two thin stripes separated by some white tiles would have increased visual coherence even more?). You also did good not connecting them together in long, broad strokes, but letting the lines end in full view. I'm pretty sure that otherwise that trend would have been impossible to continue along the curved back of the ship. Now, those shorter stripes over there don't stand out and like like a conscious design decision. Probably the best thing about the multitude of thin, short stripes in your color scheme, though, is the fact that it is echoed in the other kind of details you used to make the ship look interesting despite the relative absence of color and greebles. It's echoed in the texturing with all those tiles. The patterns created by the pentagonal and triangular tiles are a real highlight of this build. They create a very rich yet subtle texture that's integrated beautifully. The diagonal lines are not without precedent because there are other angled parts in your ship (nice touch by the way installing those circular pieces underneath the central turret at a 45° angle to reinforce this idea and to line things up perfectly!). And the delicate grooves are not drowned out by an overly present color scheme or busy greebles. On the contrary, they are complemented by the restrained color scheme, the thin greebles and even the complementary selection of decorated parts. And if you look even closer to the ship, you see those grooves lead into even finer textures, created by the 1x2 and 2x2 tiles you carefully arranged around the hull. I'm truly amazed at what you present here, with these descending levels of details that draw my face ever closer to my monitor. They give a great sense of scale to the ship too. You really prove that you don't need any fancy greebles to make a ship look big or interesting, and to me at least that's quite the innovation! While the texturing is secondto none and the interior is just so pleasant to look at, I must say that I'm not entirely convinced by the shape of the ship. It feels a bit flat to me in some key areas just like the original. It doesn't really have a distinct in-plane silhouette. Of course it can be argued that's not as important, but if you're looking to improve your build, that's the only important thing left to reconsider I think as it will give more depth to the shape that will only reinforce the depth in the texture if you do it right with some delicate shaping and clear shaping. Maybe you could increase the height of the mandibles flanked by the green stripes so they protrude more and then slide into the rest of the hull. Maybe you could just raise the green stripes by a plate or a brick to keep it light. Perhaps lower the section between the engine nozzles (great way to achieve that V-shape with those new pieces!). Either raise the section with the large macaroni bricks on the side of the cockpit or make a circular or angular cutout in the pannels surrounding the windows in front of it to integrate the two parts together and not let them clash at their border as they do now. And try to do something more interesting with the shape of the cockpit and the windows than just a flat box. Maybe give it some kind of protruding jaw or go for angular shapes around the windows. These are all examples of rather small modifications, moving things by a brick here or there (which maybe sounds trivial now, but maybe is difficult to integrate with the interior?), but I think they can make the difference. They can turn your creation from a flat drawing into a bas-relief which will gain in depth because of the textures. Hopefully this amazing build is a sign of more masterful creations yet to come. I just hope those will be good for my health. Because this creation might not have led me to believe I'm color blind or have amnesia in the end, but I had promised myself to keep it short and go to bed early today. But that's a bit of sleep I'm glad to have lost on your creation!
  13. BEAVeR

    [MOC WIP] UCS? - The Punishing One / JumpMaster 5000

    Wow, that's going to be a huge project! You have not chosen an easy scale to build this ship when it comes to the outside (I'm especially curious whether you will be able to make the wings stable enough),but it does give you the freedom to build a nice interior and in that area you already shine! I like your choice of color palette. It's very restricted and industrial, which gives a bit of a bleek feeling, which is actually pretty common in Star Wars ships (looking at you, Millennium Falcon!). Maybe to give it a bit of a distinctive flavour, you could also add in some touches of (dark) red. That will go nicely with the exterior and will also make the curtain of the bathroom refresher (which is a very nice technique by the way) jump out less. Not that I imagine Dengar to be a great interior decorator (although you never know, he did put in a nice sofa), but it would add some more visual interest. Another way to add more interest, this time on a level of texture rather than color, would be to break up the monotony of studs on the floor with some tiles here and there. Not everything has to be tiled of course (how are you going to attach figures then?), but you could tile certain areas more, like you did with the refresher area, or you could maybe have a strip of tiles running along the length of the ship like a kind of walkway, or maybe just at the edges with the walls, a bit like how you lined off the hatch with those tiles, which instantly makes it pop! In any case keep it up with the nice structured distributing of color rather than scattering it about in randomly in tiny blotches to keep things from blending together visually. And definitely keep it up with the great detailing such as in the cockpit (that technique for angling those computer screen just works so nicely!) or in the engine room with those lovely pipes peeking through the grating (I'd love to see even more pipes added to it to give it more depth and detail). You really manage to make those cross sectional drawings of the interior come to life! One thing I do wonder about that drawing and about your creation is how this interior layout can be married with the pronounced notches in the exterior of the hull though? Are you going to build so high over the rooms that you have constructed to allow for those notches in the hull? Are you then also going to add a second floor of interior? Speaking of the exterior, that's where the real big challenged of a build at this size lie. The thing with LEGO is that it is really easy to build curves at mini scales (tiny parts with intrinsic curvature), midi scales (smaller bows and rounded plates), normal scales (larger compound bows) and super duper huge scales (brick bending, hinging various sections, sculpting). But in between those regular set-sized ships and the really huge creations, which is where your creation is going to drift somewhere, there simply are not that many techniques to create smooth curvature, especially of compound shapes. I think the most frequently used technique is to use hinged panels consisting out of wedges, like used in the Death Star II UCS set back in the day for example. There's really a lot of fitting involved, the results seem to vary in effectiveness, and structural integrety probably won't be all that great. I spent some hours yesterday trying to recreate the shape of the cockpit roughly at the scale you'll be going for with that technique. It was a lot of fun and I spent way more time on it than I had planned, but in the end I didn't really get anything satisfying that would integrate very well into a larger model, I'm afraid. So my advise would be to more or less follow the technique you've established (working with panels but keeping it mostly square and adding some wedges on top to suggest the shape), althouh you could make it a bit more involved in certain key sections like the nose (here you might be able to fit some compound slopes with some (ball?) hinges). One thing that could definitely make it more easy for you to achieve more or less the right shape, is to drop the requirement of a transparent cockpit. Leaving the glass out will give you a lot more freedom in terms of shape you can pull off because you don't need to fill in the gaps. Alternatively, using black pieces gives you a larger assortment of shapes to choose from which will make it easier to fill in the negative spaces. It's a big creation so I wrote a lot . Hopefully you find it a bit useful and I'm looking forward to seeing this project evolve over time!
  14. BEAVeR

    [MOC] TIE-Lambda - new MKII version

    Subject: Review TIE-Lamba MK II Report by: BEAVeR, Imperial Regulator Report directed to: Veynom, Sienar project lead engineer Remarks: Following points of attention on the MK I have been adequately addressed on the MK II design: - More aerodynamic shape, especially at the top, to improve stability on flying in atmosphere achieved by enlargin the entrance hatch. Added benefit to facilitate access to the cockpit with larger maintenance equipment. - The exposed structural elements at the back in the MK I have been sealed under a cover to improve resistance to corrosive influences (known issue on bases located on Exogorth-infested asteroids). - Sleeker color profile to look more intimidating in propaganda. Verdict: Accept the current design for an initial batch to be tested in the field. Expect more orders afterwards. Meanwhile, it is suggested to look into the continuing weakness of the connection between the cockpit and the wing assembly. Not as a bug to be solved, but as a feature as this would be a suitable place to install an ejection mechanism. __________ Off the record, Veynom, now it looks even better! I especially love how you managed to improve the shaping of the cockpit by braking away from the mould and making it into something unique. Not only does the new version look smoother, there's also an increased organic asymmetry (not left-right, but top-bottom and front-back). That really makes look like a more evolved, refined and modern version of the classic TIE of which all variants have a perfectly spherical cockpit. And it's a great match for the more alien-like silhouette of the craft as a whole. Maybe that's something to exaggerate even more if you ever plan on fully designing a TIE model of your own imagination...
  15. BEAVeR

    The Mandalorian - Arvala

    Thank the Force for the Mandalorian, because thanks to it we get amazing builders such as you back into building Star Wars MOCs: welcome back! And what a return it is with such a nice creation! When you look at it, the particular architecture or arrangement of the source scenery is not very interesting by itself, but you manage to make it look exciting by capturing the atmosphere perfectly. The buildings all look alike, but they feature some different techniques like the different ridges everywhere, which makes it a treat to look at. Also, for me, you strike the delicate balance between gritty texturing on one hand and readability and smoothness on the other. The ground has just enough studs to make it look textured, but not too much to make it into a bland base plate. What sells it is that the studs are in clusters rather than distributed evenly. Besides the studs, the tiny gaps between the pieces (both in the ground and in the walls) give everything some more texture. I love the inclusion of the longer SNOTted plates in the base. I guess they are there purely for structural reasons because otherwise you would have gaps? Whatever the motivation, they give some extra lines that actually look a lot like lines created by the wind in the sand to me! Maybe that would even be more pronounced if you would use tiles and maybe misalign them in the vertical plane... It's surprising to me that you made the entire ground on the same level, with no areas that stick out by a plate or two as we see in all other creations, and that it works so well to evoke just the right level of roughness (not ever place has huge pits and bumps after all!). That also carries over into the area right in front of the central gate, where the white floor has slowly been covered by sand. No enormous dunes, but just sand slowly crawling its way inside because nobody bothers to keep on sweeping. It really is a subtle kind of roughness... It's amazing how you can innovate landscape building with nothing but plates and tiles like that! Awesome job as usual, markus! Look at me geeking out at how you built the sand The only comment I have is that the action with the minifigs does not look every intense or dynamic to me. Of course there are limitations to what you can do with minifigs, but to me all the fallen minifigs just looks as if they are taking a nap... Maybe here you could use some small plates, tiles and slope to create some heaps of sand next to them as if they fell very violently or something like that. And maybe here and there a minifig ducking for cover, or in a more pronounced sprint pose, instead of casually walking closer by... That could maybe fill this fantastic scene of yours with even more excitement!