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Found 47 results

  1. FlyInSpace

    [MOC] Midi-Scale Y-Wing

    Introducing you to my latest Midi-Scale spaceship, the timeless Y-Wing from Episode IV - A New Hope! At 546 pieces, this compact and intricate model is barely wider than your average smartphone's height, but keeps a dense, detailed look and accurate proportions. I initially made a first prototype more than a year ago but was unhappy with the half-baked, almost playset-ish scale. I took on the challenge again and recreated it entirely from scratch: it's now smaller, more accurate, and just better in every aspect. Despite the small size, I did my best to capture the essence of the original ILM prop: tilted cockpit section, engines off-center relative to the thin support struts, asymmetrical greebles from top to bottom, cockpit turret... Believe it or not, the deceptively simple shape of the body was not easy to capture at this scale: with such a tiny surface to work with, a subtle balance had to be struck between incorporating complex greebling and "drawing" an accurate body outline. The cockpit section was a whole other beast, but once I figured out how to create the tapering, things clicked pretty fast. I managed to reproduce the slight downwards tilt, the yellow stripes on the fuselage, and the more discreet gray stripes on each side as well. I believe it's about as small as you can go when creating a Y-Wing cockpit without sacrificing crucial features and proportions! This model comes with a removable stand. Although it being purely a display piece, its swooshability is very good. In addition to being cost-effective, I think it makes a nice desk model for anyone loving that ILM prop look, with a small space footprint. ► Instructions for the Y-Wing are available at BrickVault! More pictures on my Flickr page.
  2. Hey there, I'm super excited to share with you my latest LEGO creation the BTL-B Republic Y-Wing in midi-scale! I got inspired to build this after seeing Flyinspace's awesome minifig scale version. But instead of going minifig scale, I decided to try something different with midi-scale. Building this was an absolute blast! Usually, I just try different designs and stick with what looks best, but with this one, I found myself going back multiple times to tweak and redo sections using different building techniques. Check out the evolution of the design from V1 to V3 in the pics I've included. One of the trickier parts was figuring out which version of the Republic Y-Wing I wanted to recreate. There are so many variations out there, with slight differences in shape, color schemes, and details. But in the end, I'm pretty happy with how this one turned out. I'd love to hear your thoughts or any suggestions you might have on the design! Thanks for checking it out! V1 V2
  3. My first ever true Minifig-scale ship is finally here, and what better model to start with than the sleek BTL-B Y-Wing from The Clone Wars series. Being 23 meters long in universe, this accurately Minifig-scaled MOC is quite a unit: 57 cm long, 1,6 kg, 2,954 pieces. It can accommodate two clone pilots - one in the cockpit, the other in the turret. The model is available in three versions: classic (yellow), Rex's (blue), and red. With a spaceship of this kind, the main challenge is to achieve a level of smoothness and fluidity that gets as close to the original as possible. Using the Battlefront II model as a reference, my goal here was to closely match all key features of the ship: the subtle downwards angle on each side of the body, the curvy and tapered front section, the continuous yellow stripes that run across the entire fuselage, the intricate middle-section... and for such a smooth ship, going full SNOT (from top to bottom!) goes without saying. The T-shaped body of Y-Wings usually allow for simplistic structures, but in this case, figuring out the internals was one of the truly head-scratching parts of the build, since I had to properly incorporate angled fuselage assemblies and make a proper interior for Minifigs. Even so, the model is very swhooshable and can be grabbed from the underside, from the rear or even from both wings. Each color variant is accompanied by its specific set of instructions and parts list, giving you the freedom to build the one you prefer. The ship has two display modes, "in-flight" with its fully removable stand, and "landed" with retractable and easy-to-connect landing gear. The swooshing can begin. ► Instructions for the BTL-B Y-Wing are available at BrickVault! More pictures on my Flickr page.
  4. GrandEmperorBinks

    [MOC] "Gold 5" BTL-A4 Y-Wing

    Gold 5 was a BTL-A4 Y-Wing Heavy Starfighter, built by Koensayr Manufacturing, and serving as part of the Rebel Alliance. As was common with the rebellion's aging fleet of Y-Wing's, Gold 5 was stripped of it's armour plating by rebel technicians to allow for easier maintenance, and was heavily modified in order to improve performance and to keep it operational. Part of the venerable Gold Squadron, Gold 5 was piloted by Davish "Pops" Krail (according to Legends), an experienced veteran pilot. Gold 5 was destroyed during the assault on the first Death Star at the Battle of Yavin. My aim when I set out to make this MOC was to make a minifigure-scale rebel Y-Wing that was highly detailed, but more importantly, the details matched to the original studio filming model. What a high target to aim at... My decision on which member of Gold Squadron to make was largely influenced by what reference pictures I could find. In the end, I found the most pictures for the Gold 5/Gold 3 model (they were the same physical model used to film both), and so my decision was made for me. The reference pictures I used can be found here, if anyone would like to play a game of spot-the difference. In terms of details, I've done my best. Any suggestions would be appreciated though. A fair few sections in the pictures were pretty hard to make out, and so I had to go with my best guess as to what I thought I was seeing and what I should be trying to replicate. Admittedly, the engines were built by (somehow) managing to reverse engineer the engines used on Jerac's Y-Wing model. I couldn't help it, he absolutely nailed the design, and I couldn't think of any better engines to use. The Ion cannon on the top of the cockpit is in the same situation. Thankyou Jerac for the great designs, and sorry for pinching them! The rest however is all original. As of this post, the entire model is buildable irl as far as colour's go, except 4 pieces. I have used 2x 65426 in yellow (one on top, one on bottom) and 2x 65429 in yellow (again one on top, one on bottom). These are used to create the yellow detailing on the cockpit/head. I hope to come back to this model in the future and, among other things, rectify this by finding a solution that will work irl. If building irl, I would also use 30327pb05 as the windscreen, but unfortunately does not have this piece yet, so the pictures show a different print pattern instead. I mentioned earlier I plan to come back to this model. Hopefully soon, I will do this. My aims will be to rectify the unavailable pieces, and add (functional) landing gear that can fold up and away. I don't know whether I will be able to or not, but I am going to give it a go. After that, I plan to build it irl and test whether it's actually stable enough, or whether it will fall apart... 🤞 But now, the renders... Please feel free to share your criticisms, suggestions, or ideas! I also made a "generic" rebel Y-Wing which has more generic greebling and a few features that the Gold 5 model never had, but was essentially the same as this model with a few surface details changed. A BTL-B Y-Wing (the type flown by the republic during the Clone Wars, which has full armour plating) is also in the works, but has sort of been left and not touched for a while, but I will come back to it eventually. Anyway, I hope you enjoy, this is certainly my favourite MOC that I've built. I hope someone else can enjoy it too! -Binks
  5. Hi everyone, this is my first MOC design, a minifig scale UCS style 501st Legion BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter. The inspiration came after watching the final season of Star Wars: The Clone Wars. It was awesome to finally see the BTL-B Y-Wing in 501st colours and I knew instantly I wanted a minifig scale version to go with my other Star Wars minifig scale ships. I've been slowly chipping away at this over the last few months, and I’ve spent a lot of time finessing the shape, proportions, colouring and details to make this design as accurate as possible. I think I have found a good balance of aesthetics, ease of construction and strength, as the design is very robust and "swooshable" for a model this big. It is approximately 1800-2000 pieces (need to update the Studio model before I know for sure), 61cm long, 28cm wide and 9cm high. To keep the proportions and look of the BTL-B Y-Wing correct, the cockpit is built with removable seats to allow minifigs to be placed for display if desired, and I opted to only allow the head of an astromech droid to be added for the same reason. I've made sure to add all of the weapon detailing, including an opening bomb bay with proton bombs, and have also added folding landing gear. I’m finishing off the instructions now and should hopefully have them done in a few weeks. I'll post the link on here once they are complete. Thanks for looking! I hope you like the design and happy to hear any feedback :)
  6. Gray_Mouser

    [MOC] Rebel midi squadron

    I spent some time designing midi versions of the rebel fighters (OT). As is usual for me, I didn't start from scratch, and ripped off borrowed ideas from other people: x-wing: based on Pasq67's MOC y-wing: based on Tim Goddard's MOC b-wing and a-wing: based on SPARKART!'s MOCs I had already posted renders for the x-wing and the y-wing, but I finally could build them with real bricks. And now they are accompanied by the b-wing and a-wing. I'm glad to have them out of my system (and on my shelves); I wasted far too much time on these.
  7. scruffybrickherder

    “Ugly” Starfighter Collection

    While my LEGO collection is packed away as a result of moving house, I’ve spent the last 6 weeks building out a digital fleet of Uglies in If you’re not familiar with the term, Wookieepedia describes an Ugly as “any type of starfighter that had been cobbled together out of parts that had been salvaged from varying origins, including crashed starfighters and ex‑military surplus.” IMHO, they tend to be anything but ugly, so I should probably call them “Pretties”. Here's an overview photo, but head over to my Instagram guide the check them all out, I have more on the way as well, so give me a follow if you want to see what’s coming up.
  8. I designed the UCS Clone Wars Y-wing Starfighter a couple of months ago, and I thought I'd share some images of it here. They are all over 1860 pieces, so pretty close to the Original Trilogy UCS Y-wing we got back in 2018. This starfighter has room for 2 pilots: One in the front, and another as a gunner in the bubble turrent. The windscreen piece behind the bubble turrent can also easily come off to reveal a small space that you can fit a crate in. And there is room for an astromech droid as well. All you have to do is remove the curved tiles which are attached in by one stud each. 39632 by ice chips, on Flickr 39632 3 by ice chips, on Flickr 39632 2 by ice chips, on Flickr 39632 4 by ice chips, on Flickr Heres some more close-up pictures. cover by ice chips, on Flickr Clone Wars Y-wing 1_5 by ice chips, on Flickr I also designed this model to be compatible with the 2018 UCS Y-wing stand. So it will fit perfectly on that stand. However, this model does need either 2 rubber bands or 2 thin threads. If you look at the 4 long panels on each of the engines, you will notice that there is a 1x1 studded area open. That is where you have to put a white or clear rubber band so that those 4 panels can stay together and not be flimsy. Alternatively, tying a thin thread around that 1x1 studded area and covering it up with some 1x1 tiles would work as well. I couldn't find any other way to connect those parts 'lego pieces wise'. I did make instructions as well at Let me know what you all think of this moc!
  9. A long, long time ago I started working on a micro scale Millennium Falcon. To begin with all I wanted to do was add detail to the Microfighter but I kept tinkering and before I knew it I had a growing collection of micro Star Wars freighters and fighters, and here they are! Instructions for all these little builds are on my Rebrickable page. Since this all started with that Falcon Microfighter the cockpit piece (a light blueish-grey 2x2 truncated cone) became my yardstick for scale. Luckily trans-black 1x1 slope pieces work as fighter cockpits at the same scale so all the ships are, and will continue to be, as close to scale with each other as I can manage, at least based on these pieces and whatever reference images I can gather from Google. My Blockade Runner (April 2021) is the last ship on my micro Star Wars to-do list, although it’s hardly micro! The size and weight were a new challenge for me, I’ve never had to worry about a moc falling apart under its own weight before, but I enjoyed the challenge and managed to make it pretty easy to pick strong. I’ve put together instructions for the Tantive IV as well as the Liberator from Star Wars Rebels, which I couldn’t resist building for myself. Rather than doing new posts for each new ship I’ll edit the very long post below. All the instructions are on my Rebrickable page and there are photos and Studio renders some photos of the ships in this post, plus a few more on Flickr and Instagram. Thanks for looking!
  10. Hey everyone, So I recently started re-watching Clone Wars since I finally got it on BluRay, and thought I'd take a stab at some of the ships since Clone Wars was the first series I started making MOCs for. (One day I may show my earlier stuff once I update it all.) I had forgotten how neat the Republic Y-Wing was, and thought I'd tackle that. I had planned to show this off as real bricks but it's going to cost a bit more than I had originally anticipated, so here is the LDD version for now. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr Version with landing gear, there is unfortunately no room to fold it in, so it has to be removed and bricks placed over the holes. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr They had the design drawings available on the Star Wars website, so I used those to get my design as close as I could scale wise. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - Full (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr And then a collection of the different colours seen in the show. BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (3) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr As a side note, there is enough room to fit Anakin and Ahsoka in the cockpit, I tried to fit a clone, but the helmet is just way to big to fit under the canopy. Also I am aware that these do contain some pieces that do not currently come in the shown colours. Anyways, let me know what you think, and enjoy.
  11. Hi everyone, About a year ago I was inspired by @obijon’s amazing and very extensive collection of micro builds to start working on my own micro versions of my favourite Star Wars ships. I think I have enough of them now to get all cocky (what’s that Han?) and start sharing instructions on Rebrickable so here’s the first wave, the Rebel Starfighters. Update: I’ve thrown together some Resistance variants too! The X-Wing, A-Wing and B-Wing are fairly solid little builds, at this scale one-stud connections are inevitable but luckily these are still kind of swooshable, as long as you’re careful! The A-Wing is my favourite, I went through so many real and prototypes trying to get the shape, fins and connections right that I’m so pleased I finally ended up with a strong and recognisable build. The Y-Wing is the most fragile of the group, it’s almost all one-stud connections, particularly to the centre of the hull, so unfortunately it’s only suitable for display. I’m aiming to build several of each fighter as part of a micro Rebel hangar display and with that in mind I tried to stay away from rare/expensive parts. Having said that I couldn’t resist using the skate helmets on the Y-Wing and my liberal use of those little curved slopes with notches pushes the cost up a bit too. Oh well, you can’t build a rebellion on peanuts! Back in the spring my first attempt at making instructions in was actually this U-Wing. I managed to build the rear of the ship so that the wings fold out but there are so many weak connections that it means the wings are very fragile. I also have to admit that I cheated when connecting the engines, to keep those wheel pieces in place I wrapped a layer of tape around the internal 3L bars and pushed the wheels on. I’m still on the hunt for a better (and legal) solution and I’m open to suggestions! Update: I’ve just finished a few Resistance variants of the Starfighters, almost in time for The Rise of Skywalker. The B-Wing involved a lot of guesswork as it’s only very briefly seen in the film and trailers, but it was the same with the old B-Wing and Return of The Jedi so I suppose it’s a Star Wars tradition that’s been upheld. Overall I’m really pleased with how all these little ships have turned out and especially how they look together as a group. I’ll share more micro starfighter instructions (the next is the Millennium Falcon) when I can and if we get a good look at the new B-Wing in TRoS I’ll be able to finish the Resistance version of the starfighter group too. All my MOC and MOD instructions so far are here, I’m always grateful for any comments and criticisms. Thanks for looking and down with the space nazis!
  12. Anyone have Y-Wing 75249 or previous? I've prepared an elegant black display stand, 63 bricks, will be available on rebrickable! The vehicle is attached to the 2nd studs, it holds without problems, and on the shelf it presents much better! Tutorial on my YouTube, link in the comment! OF BRICKS/display-stand-for-y-wing/#comments
  13. Hi! I just build my new set 75249 Resistance Y-Wing Starfighter from Episode 9! Main function - 578 pieces, - 5 Minifig, - a lot of details, - new design with red and white color I like the fighter very much, the construction is interesting, there are several interesting techniques, there is practically no monotonous - maybe 2-3 steps. Advantages are: ship size 43 cm, lots of details, new colors, 5 minifigures, new "classic" Y-Wing starfighter, Zorri Bliss character, several play functions, retractable landing gears. Disadvantages - an empty cockpit needs more screens, could use a few more bricks to finish the details, Snowtrooper have old stiff cape, the price for lego shop is a bit high. Review on my YouTube channel - Edge of Bricks [ENG Subtitles]
  14. When you go on holiday, it's nice to take Lego with you to tinker with. So I packed 75178 to see what else could be made out of it. A Y-Wing jumped out at me and here it is, on a suitably vacation coloured background.
  15. The space engineers have finally completed their latest project, the LL 75181 BTL-L1 Y-wing Starexplorer with detachable exploration/research module. The Y-wing is heavily modified in the rear to make room for the docking port and necessary reinforcements. The docking system is based on a design used on several older space ships in our fleet. The new module has room for two researchers. On the outside you can see the foldable antennas, an extendable air lock and a small transport ship. Inside you'll find all necessary functions for extended research missions. New adventures await us, beyond the stars! It's considerably smaller than LL 10179...
  16. Latest up in the fourteen-year cycle of remakes of the original Star Wars Ultimate Collector Series is the BTL A4 Y-Wing Starfighter. I reviewed the 2004 original back in 2010; it suffered for being over-long but scored praise for the use of gruelling on the ship's exposed innards. We’ll see here if the new offering has addressed the issues of the earlier version and how it compares to the movie original. Review: 75181 UCS Y-Wing Starfighter Name: Y-Wing Starfighter Number: 75181 Pieces: 1967 Figures: 2 Year: 2018 Price: GBP £169.99 | USD $199.99 | EUR 199.99 | DKK 1799.99 The Box A dramatic view of the Y-Wing in the obligatory Death Star Trench setting makes for a bold and attractive front. The box has the same frontal dimensions as that of the set’s predecessor 10134 - shown behind - but somewhat surprisingly it is deeper that the earlier version. The ‘ULTIMATE COLLECTOR SERIES’ designation has returned to prominence; it disappeared from the boxes quite early in the series’s run, around 2002 if I remember. Normally Star Wars sets share a box logo with all contemporary merchandise, LEGO or otherwise; this set’s logo is currently shared only by the new UCS Millennium Falcon, possibly indicating that it is expected to have a longer run than the regular sets. We shall see if this trend continues, and if subsequent UCS sets use the same livery. For a square-on frontal image click here. The ship is shown from a similar angle on the back, though the angle is reversed: There is less drama here. The ship sits on its stand in what appears to be a hanger, though the ground looks suspiciously like floorboards; I’m surprised that more wasn’t made of the Y-Wing’s return to prominence in Rogue One. A few features are demonstrated in insets. It’s a smart-looking box, and understated, with minimal clutter; on the top is a line-drawing of the ship with dimensions and a photograph of the figures, but there’s little on the sides worthy of comment. Contents I was surprised to find a smaller box inside the outer carton, and very pleased to find this delightful line-drawing of the set gracing the front and extending to the bottom and sides. There is a further outline sketch on the bottom, this time showcasing the ship's underside: Whilst it is not unheard-of for larger sets to contain inner boxes, I've never seen one with decoration before - a nice touch, though I suspect fans would rather pay a little less for a plain box, or at least one that doesn't require destruction with thumb-tabs. Accompanying the inner box inside the outer are eight polybags - numbered 2 to 6, 8, 12 and 13; insider the inner are a further seven (1, 7, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11 - 9 and 10 are duplicated) and the large black tile for the stand. There doesn't seem to be much logic to the packaging, and you need to open the inner box to start building. Instructions Also in the outer box can be found the single instruction manual wrapped in plastic with the sticker sheet: The front view is a cut-down version of the box front, though they have managed to avoid cutting off parts of the ship. There's no cardboard backing, which seems no longer to be a thing, but the Perfect-bound manual has remained reassuringly crumple-free without it. Inside are some four double-pages of information not unlike the manual that comes with Architecture or Ideas sets. It opens with a foreword from the head of the Star Wars design team, Jens Kronvold Frederiksen, who I believe designed the earlier 2004 version. There follows a double-page spread of trivia about the Y-Wing itself: I'm not sure of the value of list of fictional statistics, but the schematics and cutaways, and Ralph McQuarrie concept art on the facing page are nice. The model shown bottom left in the picture shares several features with this LEGO version and I'm sure was used as a reference. Next follows an interview with set designer Jordan David Scott in which he is asked the question, 'How accurate is the LEGO Y-wing, compared to the real in-universe vehicle?' I will not spoil his answer, but will attempt to answer it myself during the review. There is also an interview with graphic designer Madison O'Neill, part of which is reprinted below: Mostly I showed this page for the further reference models; I will make reference to the top right picture later. The studio models (bottom right) appear to be in the process of being painted; they are largely coated in (presumably) a primer which looks to be a lovely sand blue colour: sand blue features quite prominently in this and the current System versions. The set construction is modular with two or three polybags per module, counting the engines separately, and a single bag for the stand; there are two pages demonstrating the modules so you can plan your build accordingly. The instructions are clear with call-outs and sub-builds (example), and I encountered no colour-differentiation issues. I felt it important to show that real starfighters wear pink, or at least contain pink as filler. I like the plain grey background, with white for the module header, blue for part call-outs and tan for sub-builds: smart and clear. The obligatory decal sheet isn't too terrifying this time, and unlike 10134 there isn't a large and fiddly cockpit canopy sticker - the sand-blue decals go on the cockpit sides, but the top and front are printed. The console is unfortunately stickered too (12 and 13). The information sticker contains similar information to 10134's, though rearranged somewhat, and it's a little less fussy. Parts The spread of parts is shown below in thumbnail form; you can click each for a close-up. They are divided according to module, which corresponds to polybags 1, 2, and 3; 4, 5, and 6; 7 and 8 respectively: I haven't found any parts which look new or especially rare; there are however a larger number of sand blue plates in 1x3 and 1x4 which I am pleased to see. There is a useful quantity of jumper plates, and some 80 1x1 round plates in flat silver, along with 22 grille tiles in the same colour. I like flat silver - it is an inexpensive way to make something look metallic when bluish grey won't cut it. There are also 26 light bley ingots, used to good effect here and useful for paving. Disappointingly, there are fewer pieces of flex-tubing than I would like (or expected, after the multitude of copper and long dark bley tubes of 10134); here there are only 6 in reddish brown, and most of the pipe-work is achieved with 3, 4, or 6L bars. Bags 9 and 10 are duplicated; one of each is shown here, along with bag 12: bag 11 is the same as 12 minus the figures. I wonder why they did that. The 6x6 round brick is new in light bluish grey and sand blue; it is previously available only in 2015's 60080 Spaceport. The corresponding 6x6 round plate is common but this is its first appearance in yellow. The large Viking Wagon Wheel is new in light bluish grey. The right-hand picture features bag 13 which builds the stand; of note here is only the four black 1x2 - 1x2 SNOT brackets; only two are necessary so you can easily pilfer two if you need to. Figs Two unique figures are included: a flat silver and dark bluish grey Astromech droid, and Gold Leader. The droid is unnamed in the manual, but the box top reveals him to be R2-BHD ('Tooby'), and who featured in and was created for Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. His body is, I believe, the same as that of the droid R3-S1 who features in the latest System 75172 Y-Wing Starfighter, but the head is unique. Gold Leader, aka Dutch Vander, has a beautifully detailed torso with leg printing to match - vastly superior to the previous generic Rebel pilot torso, and the helmet is a thing of beauty with olive green printing on the top, crest, and even sides. No wonder he's grinning! He also has a scared face on the rear; his head also sports a detailed visor and microphone. The torso rear-printing is also an improvement over the older design, with a more detailed tabard and a buckle. He comes with a small blaster, not shown here. Here is Dutch (centre) next to his earlier incarnation from 9495 (left) and Jek Porkins from 9493 X-Wing fighter: I'm sure you will agree the new design is much more detailed and a great improvement over the older torso; whether it will remain unique and exclusive to this set remains to be seen. I'm still unsure whether I like minifigures in UCS sets, but they make nice extra collectors items, and in the case of this set you can actually seat the figure in the cockpit. Whether you should remains unanswered. Build Rather than an exhasutive trawl through the build process, I have selected a few pictures to demonstrate important features of the construction or interesting techniques; for a more complete set of pictures, see my flickr album. Like her older sister 10134, we start by building the main body of the ship. Here, midway through module 1, the large Technic block is lined with cross-axle bricks (green), and flanked with further Technic bricks; this will form the main receptacle for the wing pylons: Some greebling and an axle connector is left dangling at the front. Already some detail is added to the underside; the square hole will of course receive the stand, and some flat silver Technic connectors at the rear look like they should have some function, but they don't. Maybe they are bomb doors (it's a bomber, after all). See their construction here. It is not until module 2 that we start to add the serious greebling to the top of the body. The reddish-brown whip piece will fold forward and clip into two of the grey clippy tiles to make an interesting feature. Note the Ingots of Bley which are used instead of 1x2 tiles to add texture, and to good effect. Also note the 4x2 bley SNOT area at the side towards the front ... ... this is built on sideways to add bulk, with some nice usage of various SNOT parts: It is nothing ground-breaking, but adds interest to the build, and reflects the build-process in general which is never dull. You can also see here where the whip got clipped. Next we see how the wing pylons are attached: slotting into the Technic bricks on long axles and secured with pins: To see inside the pylon, click here. Much like 10134, the pylons are a sandwich of bricks inside plates, but the attachment with Technic axles is much more secure in this version. They are stop-end axles, so they will stay in position if you want to dismantle the set. Removing the pylons from the body will however not be easy, because the join gets built on. Under the dark tan jumper plates and dark red grille tiles at the rear are several long 1-wide plates placed over the join: The jumper plates are used to good effect to add features to the top. The 1x3 double-inverted slope in the inset will be attached upside down into the centre jumper plate, using a 1x2 round tile with bar and pin holder as a stud reverser. Just in front of the centre jumper plate is a shield under an inverted 2x2 round tile with hole, attached via a clip in a technique similar to the headlights of the CREATOR Mini and VW Beetle. Every so often you have to flip the body to add details to the underside, and this is done gradually so that you're building on a flat, stable surface ... ... at least until you add the two 1x4 arches via SNOT bricks to make yet another interesting feature. This is not done until the end of module 2 - and it's a good thing, as this little add-on is somewhat fragile. Module 3 builds the cockpit section. The angled sides of the head are attached via hinge-plates at the rear, and skeleton arms at the front, to make a reasonably secure connection. The sudden appearance of some minor Technic here surprised me; the axle at the rear will insert into the dangling connector we met at the beginning. Note the brown and yellow double-headlight brick constructions, which produce some downwards-facing studs ... ... allowing the whole underside to attach, studs-down. This leaves only a few available connections on the top surface; the 2x3 white slope attached to only one stud on its base, but it will be secured with a tile on top. The engines are formed from a central stack of SNOT bricks and green cross-axle bricks, to which will be attached some side panels; note the use of headlight bricks to reinforce the connection on the sides with the green bricks. The clever part is that the engine needs to be rotated through forty-five degrees relative to the pylon attachment for the long axles to sit correctly, and this is achieved using a large 4x4 turntable at each end - a wonderfully simple solution; see here for more detail. At the end of the long engines, the Viking Wagon Wheels are attached using pneumatic T-pieces pushed into the little holes in the front, and marrying up to Technic crankshaft parts which allows a half-stud offset. The remaining point of the T-piece is used to attach a curved slope to neaten the join, though it remains rather flimsy. Note the flag pieces, which form the 'thrust vectrals': the instructions are very specific about placing the pole half-way into the upper clip (inset) - the free end of the pole needs to be long enough to insert into the centre holes of the wagon wheel. The construction of these thirst victuals seems rather inelegant, but we'll see how well it works later. Finally, some panels will add detail and texture to the sides of the engines. Panels 2 and 4 in the picture below sit higher on four 1x8 plates; these connect to the headlight bricks on the green cross-axle brick faces of the engine centre: the sides that will connect to the wing pylons. Panel 4 has a hole ready for the attachment; panel 3 has the landing gear. There now just remains the stand, and we're done. I thoroughly enjoyed this build; little details and surprises abound, and keep it interesting at every stage. Even the repetition of the engines isn't particularly tedious. On a personal note, I found the construction of the side panels of the engines and the SNOT underside of the cockpit reminded me greatly of building the Bullfrog all those years ago. The Complete Set First impressions: the set looks smart, which is no mean feat for a ship with all her innards on display. The colour scheme works well; the flashes of white, yellow and sand blue stand out against the grey, with pipework nicely picked out in brown. The shape is good, and looks about right, but we'll compare in more detail later. Incidentally, the stand can be attached in-line (as here) or transversely, and has two positions: upright - as here, although it doesn't lock in this position - and tilted to about 20 degrees. From the front, and slightly above - the ship almost disappears when viewed directly from the front - we can admire the shapely head, although I am not sure the shape is quite right, and should perhaps be two studs wider - compare to the reference picture I pointed out in the manual earlier. I'm also conscious that the wing pylons are a little fatter than they ought to be, though that may have been a compromise necessary for strength; I do like the use of 1x4 groove bricks to make a stripe at the front of the pylons. Perhaps my favourite angle is what I might call 'Darth Vader's view': Like the 2012 X-Wing, the ship's exhaust is (correctly) pinky-red. Here we get our first look at the thirsk victories on the rear of the engines, which seem to have come out quite well, but we'll look more closely later. I was looking forward to see if this set had addressed perhaps the biggest issue of her predecessor: the length of the engines. I am pleased to find that it has: they look about the right length. The smartness of the colour scheme again stands out in this view; note the sand blue stripe along the side of the cockpit. From the top, the relative proportions of body, pylons, and engine look pretty good: Compared to the schematics, the proportions seem about right, though the head still looks too small. The front of the engines should perhaps be more conical (I think they are parabolic in cross-section) rather than flattened hemispheres as the are here, but that's a minor point. I don't think I've ever seen so much detail on the underside of a set before: Hats off to the designer for going the extra mile here, and acknowledging that it's nice to have something that looks good even on the top shelf! You can also see that the landing gear sits unobtrusively when folded. Take a moment also to appreciate the smooth SNOT of the cockpit underside, seen more closely here. Here is the 'real thing' for comparison: Picture from You can see here that the overall shape is good. The engines in LEGO's version should perhaps be a little fatter, but the length is about right; as you can see the wing pylons should be thinner and mounted towards the top of the engines rather than on their midline. Features Let's now take a closer look, starting with the head. No LEGO UCS ship would be complete without cockpit detail, though not much is possible at this scale; there are stickered panels, a seat back cleverly made from a flag piece, targeting computer, and I love the bucket handle control stick: And it will seat the figure! It shouldn't, of course; the scale is all wrong. The cockpit should also open sideways rather than backwards; no official LEGO Y-Wing has tried to correct this. There should ideally be more of a curve to the cockpit canopy, but this would be difficult to render with existing pieces. As it is, the cockpit comes out a little boxy - but the sand blue colour works well. There's a little surprise in the turret, which is otherwise similar to the System version. Remember the surprising Technic in the head section? It connects to the turret: Turning the turret moves the little 8-tooth gear in the neck; or, you can move the gear with your finger and the turret turns. It's not much, but I appreciate the little extra. The silver droid gets a little lost in amongst all the grey; and like all UCS ship droids he's still too small. However, let's not focus on him; as we move back, the greebling detail becomes quite impressive. The pipework steals the show here, but there are some small features at the side of the neck, and even the rear of the head section gets some greebling via a hinge brick sandwiched between two white flags. The flags don't quite line up with the slopes, but I can forgive this. Note the droid body forming some extra detail at the back of the neck. Now we come the really good bit. The use of various parts to form arcane equipment on the body of the ship is superb. I've taken guesses as to what it might do. Moving backwards from Tooby, there's a couple of bley ingots (battery?). Behind this, a couple of wheels on a Technic pin sit within some tan wall elements (starter motor), all a few layers deeper in the model. Behind this are two dark tan bucket handles sitting in corner wall elements, which look like switches or circuits and between them bley binoculars on a round tile with stud (distributor cap - you can see where I'm going with this). Over all of this runs the brown whip piece (HT cable); this passes rearward past a hinged grille tile (carburettor) and between an inverted ice skate (oil filler cap) and what looks like a cylinder head from a two-stroke engine to the shield-disc (air filter). I'll dispense with the lame analogy now. Moving ever-rearwards, you can admire the inverted double-slope, in front of a wheel hub and two binocular pieces sandwiched in. Either side of the flywheel are two mechanical claw parts best seen in the picture above, and another shield-disc behind. There is an incredible amount of detail covering every part of the body with barely a stud left exposed, and what is more, the height/depth of the features varies considerably: it is not simply a plate with lots of small parts stuck on. Round the back are two frames constructed from handlebars and fire hose nozzles, resembling rear-end bull bars; I hadn't noticed them on the real ship, but they are supposed to be there. Notice the vertical brown 4L pole on the right - there is space for one on the other side, but the instructions don't have you place one there. This is an opportunity to compare again to the 'real' ship, this time in the form of the Bandai 1/72 model: Looking towards the rear of this model, you can hopefully recognise several of the features I have pointed out on this LEGO version: the shield-disc, binoculars, flywheel, inverted double-slope, cylinder head, oil filler, carburettor etc. are all there in as much detail you could render in LEGO pieces. A splendid effort. I bet the Bandai model doesn't have landing gear. LEGO's does! It looks totally flimsy, but it is really quite sturdy, and does the job well. I don't recall any other UCS set having retractable landing gear; I'm sure I will be corrected if I'm wrong. The ski parts work well ... ... and the gear sits at a slant which looks better than the vertical stanchions you tend to see on System sets. As I have already shown, they fold quite neatly and are unobtrusive when folded; click here for a further picture. Now let's look again at the thrush vegetables, er, thrust vectrals: Despite the rather Heath Robinson construction, I think they work quite well. The curved slopes at the edge of the wheel are a little flimsy and easily knocked out of alignment, but the flag pieces are reasonably sturdy. I believe those parts are like rudders and should tilt around 'y' and 'z' axes rather than rotating around the long axis of the ship, but I can live with that - certainly a better solution than any other LEGO Y-Wing set. Comparison to 10134 I dug around in some boxes and rescued 10134 from retirement especially for this moment. The senior UCS Y-Wing was notable at the time for the extensive use of greebling, but when I reviewed her before I worried that the proportions were out. Principally, 10134's engines are far too long; 75181 gets it right here: I was surprised to the new set had used grey rather than white for the long engine struts, but I think this gives a smarter finish; they are attached more neatly to the nacelles too. The engine greebling on 75181 better resembles the original ... ... as does that of the body, and by a country mile: 10134's detailing is very much parts-stuck-on-a-plate, and there is minimal attention to accuracy; 75181 is the winner hands down ... ... as she is again on the underside: 75181's belly is remarkably detailed, almost pretty. Little effort was made on 10134 where plain plate undersides are all that is to be seen. Note also the colour schemes; again 75181's smart livery is a vast improvement over 10134's blocky, almost random colours. If there is one way in which 10134 edges it slightly over her younger sibling, it is the shape of the engine cones - closer to the real thing, though still not perfect. There isn't so much difference in the cockpit design, compared here without stickers. I prefer the tapered outline of the newer set, and the sand blue canopy, but if anything the scale is worse, going from a three stud to a two stud wide seat. Compare to this movie still (featured in the manual of the set): I think the System version is a better representative of the ship's size relative to a minifigure, and I would rather have had a wider cockpit on this UCS set and forego the figure altogether. Conclusion I confess I didn't have particularly high expectations for this set, mainly because the Y-Wing itself isn't the most interesting ship, but what 75181 lacks in functionality it certainly makes up in style and detail. The designer has gone to extraordinary lengths to recreate every mysterious lump or bump on the surface of the original in as much painstaking detail as possible with LEGO bricks, and for the most part has done a fantastic job. The colour scheme is smart, and attractive, and going by the various models around is close to the original; the scale of the LEGO version is much closer to the real ship than the older set, and it's a thousand times better overall. There remain some issues: some fixable, some less so; it may be difficult to render the thrust vectrals better, and the nacelle cones aren't perfect but probably optimal with the parts available; however, I would have traded in the new figure for a new side-opening cockpit mould, and I think the head shape could be better. Design & Accuracy 8 A great-looking set that is for the most part a faithful rendition of the original, with some wonderful detail. I remain uncomfortable with the scale, and I think the cockpit needs to be bigger; the shape of the entire head section isn't quite right. Build 9 An entertaining build process with minimal repetition and no frustration and several interesting techniques; it is well-structured allowing for you to pick up and leave off with ease. Parts & Figures 7 I don't think there are any new parts in this set, but there are older parts in new colours. The selection is all generically useful without being exciting. Some may be excited by the unique figures; they look great, but that's not why I buy UCS sets. Display & Function 8 The ship looks great on the shelf; it's one of those set that is a little tricky to tell from a distance that it is LEGO. There are a number of display options, with two stand orientations and two configurations; thanks to the landing gear, you can dispense with the stand altogether. The ship is well-balanced, sturdy, and reasonably swooshable; of course, there's also the turret function! Value 9 The older set 10134 cost £109 in 2004; that equates to about £165 now - for some 500 fewer pieces than 75181. £170 for 2000 pieces in a licensed set seems like good value; throw in a smart and informative manual and the price starts to look very good. Overall 41/50 (82%) This is an excellent rendition of the Y-Wing, good value, and a great addition to the collection. I wouldn't say it's a must-have, though sadly that's the problem with the Y-Wing herself - not perhaps the most sought-after of Star Wars ships. Thank you for reading, and I hope you enjoyed the review. Comments welcome! Rufus With thanks to the LEGO Group for the review set. My flickr
  17. I've been working on Brickwright's Y-Wing for awhile now. (Thread here) The intent is to (someday) make a 3-ship division swooping into the trench. I've got one pretty much complete as pictured here. I'm not 100% satisfied with the pipes but I'm not sure I ever will be. DSC01836 by Scott Roys, on Flickr The build was straight-forward and brickwrights PDF instructions were easy to follow. Big thanks for that! I made several changes to improve weak points and add detail/color much like dmaclego's version of the Y-wing. One thing I didn't like was the after burner section so set about making improvements. The basic design is still brickwright's. I used a bunch of "illegal" techniques to make my version and thought others my find the information useful. Purist, please don't yell at me for cutting pieces! 1. I began with the cross section. Insert one LBG 4L Lightsaber bar (#30374) through two holes of a studs-on-4 sides 1x1 brick (#4733). DSC01860 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 2. A 4L bar is 3MM in diameter. Cut 3MM of the end of a 4L bar. Cut the remain piece in 1/2. Each piece should be about 14mm long. Insert those pieces into the other 2 holes of the 1x1 brick. DSC01861 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 3. Put 1 Bar holder w/clip (#11090) on the end of each of the "spokes". 4. Get 4 of part #44676, 2x2 Flag trapezoid. Cut the clip off that is below the trapezoid edge. Set aside these parts for now. DSC01863 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 5. Making the ring. Start with part #75c20. It is 158MM long. Trim it to 152 mm. 6. Slide three of part #4081b onto the trimmed hose. It's best if you get these centered up before you attempt to join the end and make a circle. The exact distance as as follows. - 34mm from hose end to edge of clip ring of first #4081b. - 31 mm between the two clip ring edges. - (The clip ring is 7mm wide) Complete equation 34+7+31+7+31+7+34=152mm DSC01871 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 7. Slide a 4th #4081b on one end of the 3mm hose. It will have to be slid over the seem once the ends are joined. 8. Find about ten inches of 12 gauge copper wire. Strip off the insulation if needed. Wrap copper wire around a 40mm cylinder. My wife's hair mousse can work perfectly. DSC01865 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 9. Cut the copper wire into about 30 mm lengths. Exact length not important. DSC01866 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 10. Insert 1/2 of the wire section into one end of the 3mm tube. It will fit perfectly. DSC01868 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 11. Clip the cross-section onto the 3mm tube as shown below. Make sure the 1x1 top stud is pointing opposite of the way the #4081b's are pointed. DSC01875 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 12. Gently bend the 3mm tube around and insert the copper wire into the other end. Make sure the the studs of the #4081b's are facing outward. DSC01874 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 13. Work the ends of the tube together to form the ring. Once together, slide the remaining 4081b over the joint. DSC01873 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 14. Collect 16 LBG 1x1plate with horizontal clip (#6019 or #61252) and 16 1x2 curved slope (#114770). I used Flat silver but LBG or DGB color would work. Clip together and install them on the ring at 2 per section. Install 2x2 trapezoid flags. DSC1876 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01864 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 15 Install on your Y-Wing MOC! DSC01840 by Scott Roys, on Flickr
  18. This is the start of a very ambitious project for me - I intend to bricklink all of the UCS sets, buying all new parts. However, since every UCS set has at least one unique part/colour combination and many key parts in the older UCS sets are long out of production, I intend to “refresh” each one in the same way Lego did when they updated and rereleased the 10188/75159 Death Star playset. My goal is to change as little as possible on each model, preserve the original design and construction techniques, but replace all the hard-to-get parts with more readily available (and cheaper!) ones. I’ve been working in Lego Digital Designer, and the first set on my list is now complete: 10134 Y-wing Attack Starfighter The original model had over a dozen unique or rare pieces which have been replaced with parts that have featured in sets released within the last two years. Minor changes include replacing the unique copper hoses with reddish brown 6L and 4L bars and recolouring the dark orange parts to bright orange (the 1x2 brick with handle is now a 1x2 plate with handle sandwiched between two 1x2 plates). More major changes include the 6x6x3 domes on the front of the engine struts, which only appeared in white in one other set, and have been replaced with a set of 3x3x2 white round corner bricks mounted on white 6x6 plates and held in place using concealed SNOT bricks. The original engine pylons were constructed from technic axles covered with 7mm ribbed hoses that are now insanely expensive, so I’ve rebuilt the whole assembly using the 3L driving ring axle connector and white pin connectors (the current version has a slot in it, which is annoying but can’t really be helped). The overall length of the starfighter remains the same, but the sizes of the axles used have been altered. One part which perhaps should have been replaced is the 30359b “Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End”, which only appeared in white in 2 sets but is relatively plentiful on bricklink (I was surprised to find one German seller with over 1500 of them in stock). However, the most significant change to the model is the replacement of the white wheels forming the engine nozzle (part 32077, unique to the set) with a brick built structure that adds some extra detail Here, some bricks have been removed to better show off it’s construction: I made it as lightweight as I could, but it is still twice the weight of the original wheels . I suspect it will cause the pylons to droop over time, and I’m worried it might be enough to throw the model off balance on its stand. I also hate the way it’s mounted on a single axle, allowing it to spin almost freely, but the distance to the central turbine is 3 technic half-bushes so a pin is incompatible. I'd be curious to hear suggestions for a better version. Full details of the part changes under the spoiler tag. I've got LDD and LDraw files prepared, you can access them on bricksafe. You can also view the model on mecabricks here. Any comments on the model, my CGI images, or suggestions for improvements would be much appreciated! Edit 9/7/17: Migrated all photos from photobucket to bricksafe. I am never using photobucket again...
  19. CommanderGrimm

    LDD Simple Y-wing

    Been working the past few days on a small, simple Y-wing. The idea is that, instead of spending nearly $150 on 3 TLG y-wings I could instead design my own, cheap versions for army building. The plan is to, at Christmas, open up a Bricklink package and have the pieces for three of them, which is why they have to be simple and inexpensive. In total there are three: One normal-sized vessel, one slightly smaller and stubbier, and another that I made to resemble a Hasbro Y-wing toy for a battle pack idea. However, I can't decide on which one to mass produce. Any suggestions would be great, and please, help me decide! #1 is the battle pack. #2 is the normal-sized one. #3 is the slightly stubbier one.
  20. EnderWiggen

    [WIP][MOC] Y-Wing

    Hello Everyone, I am in need of Help, I wanted to build A Brickwright Y-Wing so I got the planes and started Building it with limited parts and a need to reduce the weight of the engine nacelles of the y-wing. I will admit this did not start out as a True MOC and for a large part of the build it was a FrankenSet, I.E. Little of this Little of that, and as I built I used inspiration from Other builders like DarthPineapple and Dmaclego. As it Stands my Build only has the engine nacelles and forward cockpit as true or partial MOC's and I am working to create a main body like DarthPineapple's The problem is the main body is from Brickwright's MOC for now I have extended the the engine pylons and dropped the engines down creating a offset making the engines lower than intended so now the main body will sit like a hunchback when all the detail is done. I am not ok with this as I want the center aft of the main body to look like a real y-wing. Reference the pictures below for how far I have Gotten on this build. I am looking for a way to lower the main body detail to match the model as best I can and would like any help on a good way to say convert or make this setup work. You can see the frame I came up with to make the engines lighter and lower and still provide detail on the outside... I just need some advice on how to make the body match. Enjoy Edit 11/25/017 Crossed out Help Parts Removed [Help]from Title [/url]20171119_075335 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_075311 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074954 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074920 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074902 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074827 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074736 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_153714 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]2017-11-23_08-34-30 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]
  21. Hi all, Sharing my WIP MOC of the Clone Wars era Y-Wing UCS scale. I did a colour swap from yellow to red on the 8037 kit and then thought why not adapt the UCS Y-Wing to the same original Clone Wars style....this is the first pass at that MOC. Update - I've amended the engines (see later post and pics below) and cleaned up the colours and engine fins a tad. A few more phone pics at http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=565968 - once I'm fully happy with it I'll do some better ones. I still need to sort out the engine fin/ribs as they are unattached at the front and hence pull outward, undercarriage needs doing and some general tidying up. I think the biggest issue will be engine droop, so need to have a think about that, plus figuring out a way of changing out the grey 18897's. Anyway any feedback/improvements/ideas welcome...
  22. I can't talk my way around this so here I am, ready to deliver my 9th RA review for the gold badge, set # 75172: Y-Wing Starfighter. Overview Name: 75172: Y-Wing Starfighter Theme: Star Wars / Rogue One Year: 2017 (1H) Pieces: 691 Minifigures: 4 (+1 astromech droid) Price: USD 59.99 / GBP 64.99 / EUR 69.99/ SGD 139.99 / MYR 349.90 Resources: Brickset and Bricklink Introduction With all the flying alphabets in Star Wars, Y-Wing is the last one that registered in my head in the original trilogy. As a young kid, I was only interested in X-Wing. I could hardly remember A-Wing while Y-Wing was totally absent in my memory until I re-watched the original trilogy again after it was released on DVD. Fast forward in 2017, it is very hard to imagine Star Wars without these bombers. The Star Wars Databank describes Y-Wing as a workhorse starfighter. Y-wings are often overshadowed by X-wing and A-wing, which is aligned with my personal experience. They are most commonly used for bombing runs and occasional dogfights. Several sources cited the length of Y-Wing to be 23.4 m in length because around 2015 Star Wars databank changed the height/length of the vehicles to retrofit canon information. For the purpose of this review, a lot of the references are based on Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide by DK. Let's move onto the actual unboxing already as I will deal more about the scale later on. The front panel of the box highlights the main function of the Y-Wing Star Fighter, which is the mechanism for dropping the make-believe ion bombs. There are also 4 minifigures included in the set and an astromech droid. This is very generous for the size of this set considering that it only retails for USD 59.99. The back panel of the box shows the Y-Wing pilot loading the spare ion bombs. It also shows how the bomb-dropping feature works and makes sure you know that the turrets can turn 360 degrees. Meanwhile, a delusional Stormtrooper thinks he can win against the Rebels single-handedly. The side panel shows off the minifigure line up again. It's funny how they use Moroff as the key minifigure for scale even though he is only a fringe character in Rogue One. Blink and you might have missed this hairy furball. In my Resistance X-Wing review, I noticed that the seal of the box started to loosen up but I did not put this remark because I thought it was such a trivial thing. However, as I check the box of set 75172, I notice the same issue. I live in a tropical country and humidity could be the culprit. Let me know if you experience the same issue with the recent boxed sets using tape seals. Build There isn't much to talk about the box so let's move along, move along. Unboxing content Inside the box, there are 5 numbered bags, 1 sticker sheet and an instruction manual. Like all of my review, I will not put on stickers on this set but I will inform which part looks odd without the stickers. Sticker sheet I will take a moment to acknowledge where the stickers are used and what they are supposed to be. The 4 large grey stickers (label 1) are meant to be applied on the white half-cylinder pieces. These are meant to be the pair of turbo modified R200 ion jet engines. The yellow and black diagonal stripes (label 2) are for the loading crane arms. The console looking sticker (label 3) is applied on a slope inside the Y-Wing cockpit to serve as the pilot display monitor. Finally, the aurabesh on the yellow sticker (label 4) literally means "danger" in English and is applied at the back end of the crane module holding the spare ion bombs. Instruction Manual The instruction manual is smaller than the Resistance X-Wing instruction booklet but the quality is much better. The perfect binding (adhesive binding) used is uniformly applied at the edge so there are no pages that are difficult to flip open. The picture above shows a preview on how each numbered bags contribute to the build. Bag #1 Contents Bag #1 contains all parts for the small crane as well as the 2 minifigures namely Moroff and Admiral Raddus. For adult fans, the combination of Moroff and Admiral Raddus appears to be very odd because there was no scene in Rogue One depicting that these 2 characters crossed path at all. Moroff is not even part of the Rebel Alliance (after all the retakes and reshoot ordered by Disney, I speculate that it is possible that Moroff could have joined the Rebel Alliance but it was left on the cutting room floor). We know from several interviews and conferences that Star Wars team gives a degree of creative freedom to LEGO designers which minifigures to include so I won't make a big deal about this. Enough about the minifigures for now as I will discuss the minifigures in detail later. Filler or not, the small crane gives younger builders an auxiliary build to accommodate extra ammunition for the Y-Wing Starfighter. I think that the crane looks okay without the black and yellow stripe stickers but it looks a lot better with the stickers applied. Bag #2 Contents We only start building the core of Y-Wing in bag #2. Bag #2 also contains 2 more minifigures including R3-S1 and a generic Y-Wing pilot. What I like from the beginning of the build is the inclusion of Reddish Brown Antenna 1 x 4 - Flat Top that represents coolant pipes. It also gives you the impression that these Y-Wings are old and rusty refurbished starfighters. Bag #3 Contents Bag #3 forms the "head" of Y-Wing (cockpit area). What's notable in this build so far is how the designers used hinges to pull off the angles and gentle curves of Y-Wing. To keep the hinges firmly positioned, the designers used white skeleton arms. This part was used predominantly with Ninjago Skullkins minifigures but it found its way to Star Wars. I thought it was very creative and clever. Previously, the older Y-Wings like set #9495 and #7658 just used slopes and wedges to achieve the shape. They were curvier and less accurate compared to the actual model. Even the UCS Y-Wing (set #10134) do not use the advanced technique like this so if you are looking for the most accurate shape of the Y-Wing, look no further. Bag #4 Contents The 4th bag essentially adds the canopy and cryogenic power cells protruding from the central power generator. These power generators connect with the ion engines using technic pins. It is very notable that the designers put a lot of greebling for this Y-Wing set. There are so many details here that blow my mind. For instance, there are additional exposed coolant pipes represented by the reddish brown 3L bars attached on top. The designer even included the baffled hyperdrive tachyonic exhaust port on top using LBG 11mm diameter wheel. I was also not expecting the use of DBG battle droid torso to add more texture and detail to the coolant pump area. They could have left that corner with only cheese slopes but the designer went one step further to add that detail. Also, if I am not mistaken, the upside down 1x1 round plate is supposed to represent the deflector shield generator. I compared these details to the old DK cutaway illustrations that I have. Bag #5 Contents Finally, bag #5 completes the build with all the parts necessary for the 2 nacelles housing the ion engines with support pylons and disk vectrals. Depending on your patience you'll either love or hate attaching ice skates to 1x1 horizontal clips. I don't have big hands but I struggled to attach these parts together. I spent more effort than I normally should because there are times these 2 parts just won't fit nicely. Imagine if you have big fat fingers and you're attaching these 2 parts 8 times! May the force be with you. In the end, the outcome looks great. You are rewarded with a very detailed ion engine exhaust nozzles. Completed Y-Wing Starfighter Take note that due to my stubbornness to NOT apply stickers, you are looking at the exposed white cylinders that are supposed to be the grey ion engines. They would look nice with stickers applied but it should have been better if the half cylinders just came in LBG colour. I had encountered a similar issue the First Order Transporter and I don't know why the designers do not consider the design implication when you do not apply the stickers. Remember that at the beginning of this review I mentioned about the loosened box seals -- this further lower my confidence to apply any stickers to any parts. Front view The use of sand blue and yellow coloured parts adds accent to what could have been a very boring white and grey colour palette. Of course, the yellow colour is more important but the use of sand blue is a welcomed addition. Fun fact: the yellow colour of Y-Wing actually signifies the Gold Squadron colour assignment. So the next time you hear Gold squadron, they refer to the Y-Wings units with yellow stripes mainly used for bombing runs. Back view Looking at the brighter side, in addition to the very detailed exhaust nozzles, the building technique used for the disk vectrals is quite interesting because even though the main concept is still the same on how to attach the technic axle and pin connectors, it is different from older Y-Wing sets. At system scale, previous Y-Wing sets did not even try to get this detail right. It is refreshing to see how the designer used the combination of LBG 4x4 round plates with 2x2 hole and 1x1 modified bricks with studs on 4 sides to achieve 180 degrees SNOT technique. Although the disk vectrals used more parts than it used to, I like the outcome much better because at this scale the disk vectrals actually have holes. The picture above also shows fully deployed rear landing gears. You can also see the gearwheel at the back of the hyperdrive which allows you to turn the mechanism to drop the ion bombs. Side view The side view reveals the spring-loaded missiles underneath. I am not a fan of those so I am glad they are very well hidden. Top view Viewing from the top, you can see the space in the middle to accommodate the astromech droid which was empty when I took the picture. The picture above also proves that the Y-Wing Starfighter support pylons are strong enough to carry the weight of the entire starfighter as I took this photo of Y-Wing standing on its disk ventrals. I do not advise anyone to swoosh the Y-Wing very rough or bump the sides really hard but from my experience, the nacelles can take some beatings. They do not feel flimsy even though only 4 technic axles hold them from each side. You can securely swoosh the Y-Wing by holding it in the middle of the "Y" (right where the hyperdrive is). Do not swoosh it by the ion engines because the 2 technic pins connecting the ion engines by the power cell areas will not be able to firmly hold the weight of the entire starfighter. Bombs away! Here is a closer look at the gap in the middle that accommodates the ion missiles. The R3 unit is also shown snug fit at the centre of Y-Wing. Looking at the bottom, you can see where the ion missiles will drop when you turn the gearwheel. You can also see from this view how the rear landing gear folds sideways. Here's the view of the front landing gear folded upwards. it also shows the spring loaded missiles positioned at the bottom. It is very easy to remove if you don't like them. Now, let's talk about scale. Just like what I have done with my review of the Resistance X-Wing, I checked the scale of this model based on the latest canon information from Star Wars. Mommy Y-Wing with baby Y-Wing According to the Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide and Star Wars databank, the official length of BTL-A4 is 16.24 meters. The official LEGO 75172 Y-Wing Starfighter length is 41 cm. Compared to the in-universe length of 16.24 meters, the ratio is 1:39.6 (we can just round this number up to 1:40 ratio). Using the old width information of Y-Wing , which I assume is still correct at 8 meters, the LEGO Y-Wing length at 20 cm works out to have a ratio of 1:40, too. Now, I know there are several ways to interpret "minifigure scale" so, let's do this exercise again. If we consider that a minifigure is a 5-feet human, then the model scale must be 1:38. In that case, the length of BTL-A4 should be 42.7 cm. If we consider that a minifigure is a 6-feet human, then the model scale must be 1:44. In that case, the length of BTL-A4 should be 36.9 cm only If we consider that 3 studs = 1 meter then the model scale must be 1:42 and the length of BTL-A4 should be 38.7cm only. From the information provided above, we can conclude that unlike the Resistance X-Wing, Y-Wing is very close to the 3 system scales used above. So to all those people who nag that 75172 Y-Wing Starfighter is too small, you're barking at the wrong tree because the Resistance X-Wing is actually bigger than it should be. From all these information we can derive that for X-Wing to be on the same scale as Y-Wing, the Y-Wing should be 30.1% longer than X-Wing. So if we follow the scale of the Resistance X-Wing then the LEGO scaled model of BTL-A4 should be 48.15 cm in length. If we follow the scale of Y-Wing (which is closer to minifigure scale), then the LEGO scaled model of T70 should be shrunk down to 31.51 cm only. If you look at the Y-Wing and Resistance X-Wing side by side you know that something is slightly off. Parts I'm not going to dwell so much on interesting parts because I can summarise this section using 2 words: sand blue. The sand blue coloured parts included in this set appeared in this colour for the first time, except the brick 1x1. These parts are: Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger On Top Round 4 x 4 with Hole Plate 2 x 4 with 3 Holes Apart from that, the printed canopy in this set is also interesting because it's uniquely printed just for this new Y-Wing set. Minifigures The minifigure selection in this set is quite generous as I have already mentioned earlier. Pictures found in Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide suggests that Admiral Raddus had been in the Great Temple of Massassi (Base One) in Yavin 4 where the unnamed Y-Wing pilot and R3-S1 astromech droid were both stationed. As for Moroff who is a Gigoran mercenary, we don't know if he survived the destruction of Jedha or if he had joined the Rebel Alliance before joining Gerrera's fleet. After all, Moroff is a mercenary. Perhaps I am over-analysing this but that is how I see the relationship of these hodgepodge characters. The set designers probably included a Stormtrooper so that there is one bad guy mixed in. I rather have all good guys in the minifigures line up though. As an astromech droid collector, I like the transparent dome of R3-S1. She is my favourite in the set. R3-S1 (referred to as Threece) is not assigned to a specific starfighter but instead does general tech maintenance of the entire Yavin base. The Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide also mentioned that this astromech has feminine programming so this astromech is indeed "she". Admiral Raddus is the first grey-skinned LEGO Mon Calamari minifigure. As all previous Mon Calamaris are "brown mottle" in colour, like Admiral Ackbar, it's exciting to finally get a Mon Calamari from the polar region. Front view with accessories All these minifigures have excellent torso and legs printing. Back view with accessories Here's the back view of the minifigures with accessories. Front view without accessories/head gears Moroff's torso is printed even if the front torso is entirely covered by a dual-moulded headpiece. Back view without accessories/head gears We can see below that Moroff's back is also printed even though it is intended to be covered by the brick-built backpack. The Y-Wing pilot has the generic happy/scared pilot face, and the Stormtrooper has the angry clone face again. A parade of astromech droids with transparent domes You would think that the astromech droids are just simple re-colour but if you look closely they actually have different print details for both body and top dome. From left to right: R3 Imperial Astromech droid, R3-M3, R3-S1, R3-A2 and R3-M2. 75172 Y-Wing Pilot vs. microfighter Y-Wing Pilot Since I also compared the microfighter for scale purposes, I also compared the microfighter Y-Wing pilot with the 75172 Y-Wing pilot below. The torso and legs assembly for both minifigures are exactly the same. The only difference between the two minifigures is the helmet. The helmet used in 75172 Y-Wing pilot is for Wona Goban (gold nine) while the helmet used in microfighter Y-Wing pilot is for Barion Raner (blue four). Both of these pilots are unnamed but DK's Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide shows the distinctive helmet design of these pilots. Unfortunately, both the minifigure pilots are wrong because blue four has dark skin while gold nine is a woman pilot. The Y-Wing pilot also appears in the U-Wing set but both are not cheap sets so the only way to get gold nine helmet cheaply is through Bricklink. Throw this fool in the trash compactor! Conclusion This LEGO set is the 8th incarnation of Y-Wing. I am happy to say that this set is a not a lazy rehash of any previously released Y-Wing. Arguably, it is the most accurate system-scale Y-Wing released to-date. The printed canopy is also more accurate and the play features are very enjoyable. It is very swooshable and rivals the latest X-Wing on almost every account. The details are not just random greeblings; the designer effectively captured even the small details such as the coolant pipes, coolant pump, hyperdrive tachyon exhaust, deflector shield generator, twin ion cannons, and vectral rings that are actually hollow and open. Few gripes I have with this set is that instead of getting LBG half cylinders for the ion engines, they came in white colour so if you do not apply the stickers the ion engines looks too plain and too clean. Fortunately, those parts are easy to swap out with the light bluish grey ones. I also don't like the idea I have to apply those stickers to get the ion engine details. The inclusion of Stormtrooper is not necessary. Maybe Mon Mothma or some other politician could make this set much better. Also, there is an argument that we don't need the small crane build but with its decent price, I think it does not matter much. Who should buy this set then? Those who missed out previous Y-Wings sets, this is definitely a must-have set. Those who have older Y-Wing models, it is still a great set to get because it is more accurate. Besides, it's good to have several Y-Wings to make your own Gold Squadron. Cheers! Review summary Playability: 9/10 - It rivals X-Wing on play features and swoosh factor. The small crane build is a great addition for play feature and not just there to inflate the price Design / Building Experience: 9/10 - I enjoyed the clever techniques used and well-thought greeblings that captured smaller details. Minifigures: 9/10 - R3-S1 is a great addition to astromech collection while Admiral Raddus is a war hero you should not skip. Price / Value for money: 9/10 - This set is cheaper than the Resistance X-Wing but it offers the same play value and has more minifigures. Overall: 9/10 - The design is not a rehash, has very enjoyable build, more accurate, offers good value for money and contains great selection of minifigures. A must buy specially for new collectors. Thanks for reading. As always, wubba lubba dub dub.
  23. And here comes my latest MOC: the hybrid crossing between a STar Wars Y-Wing and a Star Trek USS Enterprise. Hybrid Bomber Wing by Veynom, on Flickr I based my model out of the Lego 75172 Y-Wing set and then started really heavily modifying everything. A new prototype is ready by Veynom, on Flickr The resulting model is very sturdy, fully swosshable, and not-so-ugly-kind-of, at least if you like flying junk ships. Preparing the new Wing bomber by Veynom, on Flickr Loading the bombs by Veynom, on Flickr As play features, I kept the bombing compartment, the rotating gun, the astromech slot, and the opening cockpit. The colors have moved from yellow to black, LBG, DBG, and white. A darker scheme in the end. Good job, Admiral! by Veynom, on Flickr It looks like the rebel admirals are relatively satisfied with the resulting hybrid bomber. I have been told it looks a bit like the Firefly Serenity, which I did not know before. I'm still looking for a valid name for that ship. One of the proposals on the table would be a Goose-Wing as it has a duck look. Comments welcome.
  24. Stop motion review (presentation) of 75172 Y-wing Starfighter Year: 2017 Pieces: 691 Figures: 5 Price: £64.99 / $59.99 / 69.99€ Brickset
  25. tfcrafter

    Original Trilogy Y-Wing MOC

    This is a MOC of the Y-Wing featured in the original trilogy. I tried to make all the components of the greebling as close to the studio model as possible, as well as getting the front of the bomber to look authentic. The grey component of the nacelles was based on 7658.