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Found 33 results

  1. LDD Simple Y-wing

    Been working the past few days on a small, simple Y-wing. The idea is that, instead of spending nearly $150 on 3 TLG y-wings I could instead design my own, cheap versions for army building. The plan is to, at Christmas, open up a Bricklink package and have the pieces for three of them, which is why they have to be simple and inexpensive. In total there are three: One normal-sized vessel, one slightly smaller and stubbier, and another that I made to resemble a Hasbro Y-wing toy for a battle pack idea. However, I can't decide on which one to mass produce. Any suggestions would be great, and please, help me decide! #1 is the battle pack. #2 is the normal-sized one. #3 is the slightly stubbier one.
  2. [WIP][MOC] Y-Wing

    Hello Everyone, I am in need of Help, I wanted to build A Brickwright Y-Wing so I got the planes and started Building it with limited parts and a need to reduce the weight of the engine nacelles of the y-wing. I will admit this did not start out as a True MOC and for a large part of the build it was a FrankenSet, I.E. Little of this Little of that, and as I built I used inspiration from Other builders like DarthPineapple and Dmaclego. As it Stands my Build only has the engine nacelles and forward cockpit as true or partial MOC's and I am working to create a main body like DarthPineapple's The problem is the main body is from Brickwright's MOC for now I have extended the the engine pylons and dropped the engines down creating a offset making the engines lower than intended so now the main body will sit like a hunchback when all the detail is done. I am not ok with this as I want the center aft of the main body to look like a real y-wing. Reference the pictures below for how far I have Gotten on this build. I am looking for a way to lower the main body detail to match the model as best I can and would like any help on a good way to say convert or make this setup work. You can see the frame I came up with to make the engines lighter and lower and still provide detail on the outside... I just need some advice on how to make the body match. Enjoy Edit 11/25/017 Crossed out Help Parts Removed [Help]from Title [/url]20171119_075335 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_075311 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074954 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074920 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074902 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074827 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_074736 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]20171119_153714 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr] [/url]2017-11-23_08-34-30 by Ender Wiggin, on Flickr]
  3. I can't talk my way around this so here I am, ready to deliver my 9th RA review for the gold badge, set # 75172: Y-Wing Starfighter. Overview Name: 75172: Y-Wing Starfighter Theme: Star Wars / Rogue One Year: 2017 (1H) Pieces: 691 Minifigures: 4 (+1 astromech droid) Price: USD 59.99 / GBP 64.99 / EUR 69.99/ SGD 139.99 / MYR 349.90 Resources: Brickset and Bricklink Introduction With all the flying alphabets in Star Wars, Y-Wing is the last one that registered in my head in the original trilogy. As a young kid, I was only interested in X-Wing. I could hardly remember A-Wing while Y-Wing was totally absent in my memory until I re-watched the original trilogy again after it was released on DVD. Fast forward in 2017, it is very hard to imagine Star Wars without these bombers. The Star Wars Databank describes Y-Wing as a workhorse starfighter. Y-wings are often overshadowed by X-wing and A-wing, which is aligned with my personal experience. They are most commonly used for bombing runs and occasional dogfights. Several sources cited the length of Y-Wing to be 23.4 m in length because around 2015 Star Wars databank changed the height/length of the vehicles to retrofit canon information. For the purpose of this review, a lot of the references are based on Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide by DK. Let's move onto the actual unboxing already as I will deal more about the scale later on. The front panel of the box highlights the main function of the Y-Wing Star Fighter, which is the mechanism for dropping the make-believe ion bombs. There are also 4 minifigures included in the set and an astromech droid. This is very generous for the size of this set considering that it only retails for USD 59.99. The back panel of the box shows the Y-Wing pilot loading the spare ion bombs. It also shows how the bomb-dropping feature works and makes sure you know that the turrets can turn 360 degrees. Meanwhile, a delusional Stormtrooper thinks he can win against the Rebels single-handedly. The side panel shows off the minifigure line up again. It's funny how they use Moroff as the key minifigure for scale even though he is only a fringe character in Rogue One. Blink and you might have missed this hairy furball. In my Resistance X-Wing review, I noticed that the seal of the box started to loosen up but I did not put this remark because I thought it was such a trivial thing. However, as I check the box of set 75172, I notice the same issue. I live in a tropical country and humidity could be the culprit. Let me know if you experience the same issue with the recent boxed sets using tape seals. Build There isn't much to talk about the box so let's move along, move along. Unboxing content Inside the box, there are 5 numbered bags, 1 sticker sheet and an instruction manual. Like all of my review, I will not put on stickers on this set but I will inform which part looks odd without the stickers. Sticker sheet I will take a moment to acknowledge where the stickers are used and what they are supposed to be. The 4 large grey stickers (label 1) are meant to be applied on the white half-cylinder pieces. These are meant to be the pair of turbo modified R200 ion jet engines. The yellow and black diagonal stripes (label 2) are for the loading crane arms. The console looking sticker (label 3) is applied on a slope inside the Y-Wing cockpit to serve as the pilot display monitor. Finally, the aurabesh on the yellow sticker (label 4) literally means "danger" in English and is applied at the back end of the crane module holding the spare ion bombs. Instruction Manual The instruction manual is smaller than the Resistance X-Wing instruction booklet but the quality is much better. The perfect binding (adhesive binding) used is uniformly applied at the edge so there are no pages that are difficult to flip open. The picture above shows a preview on how each numbered bags contribute to the build. Bag #1 Contents Bag #1 contains all parts for the small crane as well as the 2 minifigures namely Moroff and Admiral Raddus. For adult fans, the combination of Moroff and Admiral Raddus appears to be very odd because there was no scene in Rogue One depicting that these 2 characters crossed path at all. Moroff is not even part of the Rebel Alliance (after all the retakes and reshoot ordered by Disney, I speculate that it is possible that Moroff could have joined the Rebel Alliance but it was left on the cutting room floor). We know from several interviews and conferences that Star Wars team gives a degree of creative freedom to LEGO designers which minifigures to include so I won't make a big deal about this. Enough about the minifigures for now as I will discuss the minifigures in detail later. Filler or not, the small crane gives younger builders an auxiliary build to accommodate extra ammunition for the Y-Wing Starfighter. I think that the crane looks okay without the black and yellow stripe stickers but it looks a lot better with the stickers applied. Bag #2 Contents We only start building the core of Y-Wing in bag #2. Bag #2 also contains 2 more minifigures including R3-S1 and a generic Y-Wing pilot. What I like from the beginning of the build is the inclusion of Reddish Brown Antenna 1 x 4 - Flat Top that represents coolant pipes. It also gives you the impression that these Y-Wings are old and rusty refurbished starfighters. Bag #3 Contents Bag #3 forms the "head" of Y-Wing (cockpit area). What's notable in this build so far is how the designers used hinges to pull off the angles and gentle curves of Y-Wing. To keep the hinges firmly positioned, the designers used white skeleton arms. This part was used predominantly with Ninjago Skullkins minifigures but it found its way to Star Wars. I thought it was very creative and clever. Previously, the older Y-Wings like set #9495 and #7658 just used slopes and wedges to achieve the shape. They were curvier and less accurate compared to the actual model. Even the UCS Y-Wing (set #10134) do not use the advanced technique like this so if you are looking for the most accurate shape of the Y-Wing, look no further. Bag #4 Contents The 4th bag essentially adds the canopy and cryogenic power cells protruding from the central power generator. These power generators connect with the ion engines using technic pins. It is very notable that the designers put a lot of greebling for this Y-Wing set. There are so many details here that blow my mind. For instance, there are additional exposed coolant pipes represented by the reddish brown 3L bars attached on top. The designer even included the baffled hyperdrive tachyonic exhaust port on top using LBG 11mm diameter wheel. I was also not expecting the use of DBG battle droid torso to add more texture and detail to the coolant pump area. They could have left that corner with only cheese slopes but the designer went one step further to add that detail. Also, if I am not mistaken, the upside down 1x1 round plate is supposed to represent the deflector shield generator. I compared these details to the old DK cutaway illustrations that I have. Bag #5 Contents Finally, bag #5 completes the build with all the parts necessary for the 2 nacelles housing the ion engines with support pylons and disk vectrals. Depending on your patience you'll either love or hate attaching ice skates to 1x1 horizontal clips. I don't have big hands but I struggled to attach these parts together. I spent more effort than I normally should because there are times these 2 parts just won't fit nicely. Imagine if you have big fat fingers and you're attaching these 2 parts 8 times! May the force be with you. In the end, the outcome looks great. You are rewarded with a very detailed ion engine exhaust nozzles. Completed Y-Wing Starfighter Take note that due to my stubbornness to NOT apply stickers, you are looking at the exposed white cylinders that are supposed to be the grey ion engines. They would look nice with stickers applied but it should have been better if the half cylinders just came in LBG colour. I had encountered a similar issue the First Order Transporter and I don't know why the designers do not consider the design implication when you do not apply the stickers. Remember that at the beginning of this review I mentioned about the loosened box seals -- this further lower my confidence to apply any stickers to any parts. Front view The use of sand blue and yellow coloured parts adds accent to what could have been a very boring white and grey colour palette. Of course, the yellow colour is more important but the use of sand blue is a welcomed addition. Fun fact: the yellow colour of Y-Wing actually signifies the Gold Squadron colour assignment. So the next time you hear Gold squadron, they refer to the Y-Wings units with yellow stripes mainly used for bombing runs. Back view Looking at the brighter side, in addition to the very detailed exhaust nozzles, the building technique used for the disk vectrals is quite interesting because even though the main concept is still the same on how to attach the technic axle and pin connectors, it is different from older Y-Wing sets. At system scale, previous Y-Wing sets did not even try to get this detail right. It is refreshing to see how the designer used the combination of LBG 4x4 round plates with 2x2 hole and 1x1 modified bricks with studs on 4 sides to achieve 180 degrees SNOT technique. Although the disk vectrals used more parts than it used to, I like the outcome much better because at this scale the disk vectrals actually have holes. The picture above also shows fully deployed rear landing gears. You can also see the gearwheel at the back of the hyperdrive which allows you to turn the mechanism to drop the ion bombs. Side view The side view reveals the spring-loaded missiles underneath. I am not a fan of those so I am glad they are very well hidden. Top view Viewing from the top, you can see the space in the middle to accommodate the astromech droid which was empty when I took the picture. The picture above also proves that the Y-Wing Starfighter support pylons are strong enough to carry the weight of the entire starfighter as I took this photo of Y-Wing standing on its disk ventrals. I do not advise anyone to swoosh the Y-Wing very rough or bump the sides really hard but from my experience, the nacelles can take some beatings. They do not feel flimsy even though only 4 technic axles hold them from each side. You can securely swoosh the Y-Wing by holding it in the middle of the "Y" (right where the hyperdrive is). Do not swoosh it by the ion engines because the 2 technic pins connecting the ion engines by the power cell areas will not be able to firmly hold the weight of the entire starfighter. Bombs away! Here is a closer look at the gap in the middle that accommodates the ion missiles. The R3 unit is also shown snug fit at the centre of Y-Wing. Looking at the bottom, you can see where the ion missiles will drop when you turn the gearwheel. You can also see from this view how the rear landing gear folds sideways. Here's the view of the front landing gear folded upwards. it also shows the spring loaded missiles positioned at the bottom. It is very easy to remove if you don't like them. Now, let's talk about scale. Just like what I have done with my review of the Resistance X-Wing, I checked the scale of this model based on the latest canon information from Star Wars. Mommy Y-Wing with baby Y-Wing According to the Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide and Star Wars databank, the official length of BTL-A4 is 16.24 meters. The official LEGO 75172 Y-Wing Starfighter length is 41 cm. Compared to the in-universe length of 16.24 meters, the ratio is 1:39.6 (we can just round this number up to 1:40 ratio). Using the old width information of Y-Wing , which I assume is still correct at 8 meters, the LEGO Y-Wing length at 20 cm works out to have a ratio of 1:40, too. Now, I know there are several ways to interpret "minifigure scale" so, let's do this exercise again. If we consider that a minifigure is a 5-feet human, then the model scale must be 1:38. In that case, the length of BTL-A4 should be 42.7 cm. If we consider that a minifigure is a 6-feet human, then the model scale must be 1:44. In that case, the length of BTL-A4 should be 36.9 cm only If we consider that 3 studs = 1 meter then the model scale must be 1:42 and the length of BTL-A4 should be 38.7cm only. From the information provided above, we can conclude that unlike the Resistance X-Wing, Y-Wing is very close to the 3 system scales used above. So to all those people who nag that 75172 Y-Wing Starfighter is too small, you're barking at the wrong tree because the Resistance X-Wing is actually bigger than it should be. From all these information we can derive that for X-Wing to be on the same scale as Y-Wing, the Y-Wing should be 30.1% longer than X-Wing. So if we follow the scale of the Resistance X-Wing then the LEGO scaled model of BTL-A4 should be 48.15 cm in length. If we follow the scale of Y-Wing (which is closer to minifigure scale), then the LEGO scaled model of T70 should be shrunk down to 31.51 cm only. If you look at the Y-Wing and Resistance X-Wing side by side you know that something is slightly off. Parts I'm not going to dwell so much on interesting parts because I can summarise this section using 2 words: sand blue. The sand blue coloured parts included in this set appeared in this colour for the first time, except the brick 1x1. These parts are: Hinge Plate 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger On Top Round 4 x 4 with Hole Plate 2 x 4 with 3 Holes Apart from that, the printed canopy in this set is also interesting because it's uniquely printed just for this new Y-Wing set. Minifigures The minifigure selection in this set is quite generous as I have already mentioned earlier. Pictures found in Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide suggests that Admiral Raddus had been in the Great Temple of Massassi (Base One) in Yavin 4 where the unnamed Y-Wing pilot and R3-S1 astromech droid were both stationed. As for Moroff who is a Gigoran mercenary, we don't know if he survived the destruction of Jedha or if he had joined the Rebel Alliance before joining Gerrera's fleet. After all, Moroff is a mercenary. Perhaps I am over-analysing this but that is how I see the relationship of these hodgepodge characters. The set designers probably included a Stormtrooper so that there is one bad guy mixed in. I rather have all good guys in the minifigures line up though. As an astromech droid collector, I like the transparent dome of R3-S1. She is my favourite in the set. R3-S1 (referred to as Threece) is not assigned to a specific starfighter but instead does general tech maintenance of the entire Yavin base. The Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide also mentioned that this astromech has feminine programming so this astromech is indeed "she". Admiral Raddus is the first grey-skinned LEGO Mon Calamari minifigure. As all previous Mon Calamaris are "brown mottle" in colour, like Admiral Ackbar, it's exciting to finally get a Mon Calamari from the polar region. Front view with accessories All these minifigures have excellent torso and legs printing. Back view with accessories Here's the back view of the minifigures with accessories. Front view without accessories/head gears Moroff's torso is printed even if the front torso is entirely covered by a dual-moulded headpiece. Back view without accessories/head gears We can see below that Moroff's back is also printed even though it is intended to be covered by the brick-built backpack. The Y-Wing pilot has the generic happy/scared pilot face, and the Stormtrooper has the angry clone face again. A parade of astromech droids with transparent domes You would think that the astromech droids are just simple re-colour but if you look closely they actually have different print details for both body and top dome. From left to right: R3 Imperial Astromech droid, R3-M3, R3-S1, R3-A2 and R3-M2. 75172 Y-Wing Pilot vs. microfighter Y-Wing Pilot Since I also compared the microfighter for scale purposes, I also compared the microfighter Y-Wing pilot with the 75172 Y-Wing pilot below. The torso and legs assembly for both minifigures are exactly the same. The only difference between the two minifigures is the helmet. The helmet used in 75172 Y-Wing pilot is for Wona Goban (gold nine) while the helmet used in microfighter Y-Wing pilot is for Barion Raner (blue four). Both of these pilots are unnamed but DK's Rogue One: The Ultimate Visual Guide shows the distinctive helmet design of these pilots. Unfortunately, both the minifigure pilots are wrong because blue four has dark skin while gold nine is a woman pilot. The Y-Wing pilot also appears in the U-Wing set but both are not cheap sets so the only way to get gold nine helmet cheaply is through Bricklink. Throw this fool in the trash compactor! Conclusion This LEGO set is the 8th incarnation of Y-Wing. I am happy to say that this set is a not a lazy rehash of any previously released Y-Wing. Arguably, it is the most accurate system-scale Y-Wing released to-date. The printed canopy is also more accurate and the play features are very enjoyable. It is very swooshable and rivals the latest X-Wing on almost every account. The details are not just random greeblings; the designer effectively captured even the small details such as the coolant pipes, coolant pump, hyperdrive tachyon exhaust, deflector shield generator, twin ion cannons, and vectral rings that are actually hollow and open. Few gripes I have with this set is that instead of getting LBG half cylinders for the ion engines, they came in white colour so if you do not apply the stickers the ion engines looks too plain and too clean. Fortunately, those parts are easy to swap out with the light bluish grey ones. I also don't like the idea I have to apply those stickers to get the ion engine details. The inclusion of Stormtrooper is not necessary. Maybe Mon Mothma or some other politician could make this set much better. Also, there is an argument that we don't need the small crane build but with its decent price, I think it does not matter much. Who should buy this set then? Those who missed out previous Y-Wings sets, this is definitely a must-have set. Those who have older Y-Wing models, it is still a great set to get because it is more accurate. Besides, it's good to have several Y-Wings to make your own Gold Squadron. Cheers! Review summary Playability: 9/10 - It rivals X-Wing on play features and swoosh factor. The small crane build is a great addition for play feature and not just there to inflate the price Design / Building Experience: 9/10 - I enjoyed the clever techniques used and well-thought greeblings that captured smaller details. Minifigures: 9/10 - R3-S1 is a great addition to astromech collection while Admiral Raddus is a war hero you should not skip. Price / Value for money: 9/10 - This set is cheaper than the Resistance X-Wing but it offers the same play value and has more minifigures. Overall: 9/10 - The design is not a rehash, has very enjoyable build, more accurate, offers good value for money and contains great selection of minifigures. A must buy specially for new collectors. Thanks for reading. As always, wubba lubba dub dub.
  4. And here comes my latest MOC: the hybrid crossing between a STar Wars Y-Wing and a Star Trek USS Enterprise. Hybrid Bomber Wing by Veynom, on Flickr I based my model out of the Lego 75172 Y-Wing set and then started really heavily modifying everything. A new prototype is ready by Veynom, on Flickr The resulting model is very sturdy, fully swosshable, and not-so-ugly-kind-of, at least if you like flying junk ships. Preparing the new Wing bomber by Veynom, on Flickr Loading the bombs by Veynom, on Flickr As play features, I kept the bombing compartment, the rotating gun, the astromech slot, and the opening cockpit. The colors have moved from yellow to black, LBG, DBG, and white. A darker scheme in the end. Good job, Admiral! by Veynom, on Flickr It looks like the rebel admirals are relatively satisfied with the resulting hybrid bomber. I have been told it looks a bit like the Firefly Serenity, which I did not know before. I'm still looking for a valid name for that ship. One of the proposals on the table would be a Goose-Wing as it has a duck look. Comments welcome.
  5. Hey everyone, So I recently started re-watching Clone Wars since I finally got it on BluRay, and thought I'd take a stab at some of the ships since Clone Wars was the first series I started making MOCs for. (One day I may show my earlier stuff once I update it all.) I had forgotten how neat the Republic Y-Wing was, and thought I'd tackle that. I had planned to show this off as real bricks but it's going to cost a bit more than I had originally anticipated, so here is the LDD version for now. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr Version with landing gear, there is unfortunately no room to fold it in, so it has to be removed and bricks placed over the holes. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr They had the design drawings available on the Star Wars website, so I used those to get my design as close as I could scale wise. Anakin's BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - Full (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr And then a collection of the different colours seen in the show. BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (1) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (2) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr BTL-B Y-Wing Starfighter - All Colours (3) by IcarusBuilds, on Flickr As a side note, there is enough room to fit Anakin and Ahsoka in the cockpit, I tried to fit a clone, but the helmet is just way to big to fit under the canopy. Also I am aware that these do contain some pieces that do not currently come in the shown colours. Anyways, let me know what you think, and enjoy.
  6. Stop motion review (presentation) of 75172 Y-wing Starfighter Year: 2017 Pieces: 691 Figures: 5 Price: £64.99 / $59.99 / 69.99€ Brickset
  7. Original Trilogy Y-Wing MOC

    This is a MOC of the Y-Wing featured in the original trilogy. I tried to make all the components of the greebling as close to the studio model as possible, as well as getting the front of the bomber to look authentic. The grey component of the nacelles was based on 7658.
  8. Got the latest Y-wing recently, but didn't really like the Sand Blue, so I thought I'd modify mine using parts from 9495 and change the color to light bluish gray. Here's how it looks overall. But I got a little troubled with the stickers on the nacelles, so I thought I'd copy the build from 7658.
  9. After playing the good old X-wing and Tie fighter series of videogames in my rare spare time lately, I had the urge to build my favorite tag-team of the Rebel Alliance: The Y-wing to deliver a huge punch to large targets, and the A-wing to clear the path for the Y-wing towards the target. I already had a good base to start with for the A-wing with my McQuarrie A-wing prototype, but I improved and modified the build once more. First of all, I made the sides smoother and the angle of the sides more accurate by getting rid of the slope bricks, and using a straight assembly of tiles mounted on a hinge instead. Here I also applied a sticker - something I normally don't do - but in this case it looks much better with the long dark sticker on the front two thirds of the sides to represent the dark gap in the fuselage for the torpedo- or missile-launchers. Also, it's an official sticker from Lego originally used for the canopy of an older A-wing set. I also made the fuselage in front of the engines one stud shorter, and the part of the fuselage in-between the engines one stud longer - both of which required a re-engineering of the internal structure, mainly for sturdiness. I also brick-built the engines differently to the official set in the recent wave, and also made them one stud longer. This gave me the right proportions compared to the studio model used in Return of the Jedi. The engines are also angled less than those of the McQuarrie prototype-version in order to give the fins the correct angle. With the Y-wing I basically had to start from scratch, which initially required some sketch-building mainly to get a grasp of the correct proportions of the engines and the cockpit sections and to get the size correct for minifig scale. As with the A-wing, I also wanted to SNOT-built it with studs-up in all 6 directions, and give it accurate greebling and detail as much as possible. I quickly realized that it was important to get the contrast between the smooth elegant cockpit and front sections of the engines and the cluttered, mechanical fuselage right. I also aimed for retractable landing gear, so that I can display it in landed mode or flight mode along with my A-wing. What can I say? I'm pretty happy with how both have turned out, and building the Y-wing with all the greebling was lots of fun. Both are sturdy - something which was particularly important with the Y-wing because the engines are heavy, as is the rest of the model, which is why the flat wide struts that connect the engines to the fuselage have their core built right into the inner structure of the engines and the fuselage, resulting in a very solid connection which prevents the struts from bending at all under all the weight - neither in landed nor in flight mode - and the engines not wobbling at all. Feel free to comment, and tell me what you think. Happy building!
  10. I've been working on Brickwright's Y-Wing for awhile now. (Thread here) The intent is to (someday) make a 3-ship division swooping into the trench. I've got one pretty much complete as pictured here. I'm not 100% satisfied with the pipes but I'm not sure I ever will be. DSC01836 by Scott Roys, on Flickr The build was straight-forward and brickwrights PDF instructions were easy to follow. Big thanks for that! I made several changes to improve weak points and add detail/color much like dmaclego's version of the Y-wing. One thing I didn't like was the after burner section so set about making improvements. The basic design is still brickwright's. I used a bunch of "illegal" techniques to make my version and thought others my find the information useful. Purist, please don't yell at me for cutting pieces! 1. I began with the cross section. Insert one LBG 4L Lightsaber bar (#30374) through two holes of a studs-on-4 sides 1x1 brick (#4733). DSC01860 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 2. A 4L bar is 3MM in diameter. Cut 3MM of the end of a 4L bar. Cut the remain piece in 1/2. Each piece should be about 14mm long. Insert those pieces into the other 2 holes of the 1x1 brick. DSC01861 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 3. Put 1 Bar holder w/clip (#11090) on the end of each of the "spokes". 4. Get 4 of part #44676, 2x2 Flag trapezoid. Cut the clip off that is below the trapezoid edge. Set aside these parts for now. DSC01863 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 5. Making the ring. Start with part #75c20. It is 158MM long. Trim it to 152 mm. 6. Slide three of part #4081b onto the trimmed hose. It's best if you get these centered up before you attempt to join the end and make a circle. The exact distance as as follows. - 34mm from hose end to edge of clip ring of first #4081b. - 31 mm between the two clip ring edges. - (The clip ring is 7mm wide) Complete equation 34+7+31+7+31+7+34=152mm DSC01871 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 7. Slide a 4th #4081b on one end of the 3mm hose. It will have to be slid over the seem once the ends are joined. 8. Find about ten inches of 12 gauge copper wire. Strip off the insulation if needed. Wrap copper wire around a 40mm cylinder. My wife's hair mousse can work perfectly. DSC01865 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 9. Cut the copper wire into about 30 mm lengths. Exact length not important. DSC01866 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 10. Insert 1/2 of the wire section into one end of the 3mm tube. It will fit perfectly. DSC01868 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 11. Clip the cross-section onto the 3mm tube as shown below. Make sure the 1x1 top stud is pointing opposite of the way the #4081b's are pointed. DSC01875 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 12. Gently bend the 3mm tube around and insert the copper wire into the other end. Make sure the the studs of the #4081b's are facing outward. DSC01874 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 13. Work the ends of the tube together to form the ring. Once together, slide the remaining 4081b over the joint. DSC01873 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 14. Collect 16 LBG 1x1plate with horizontal clip (#6019 or #61252) and 16 1x2 curved slope (#114770). I used Flat silver but LBG or DGB color would work. Clip together and install them on the ring at 2 per section. Install 2x2 trapezoid flags. DSC1876 by Scott Roys, on Flickr DSC01864 by Scott Roys, on Flickr 15 Install on your Y-Wing MOC! DSC01840 by Scott Roys, on Flickr
  11. (MOC) Y-wing Starfighter

    Hello Eurobricks members. Here's a recent Moc of mine, the Y-wing.
  12. [MOC] Y-Tie advanced

    A few weeks ago I got myself the 75150 set, as I wanted to have the latest version of the A-Wing. I also built the Tie-advanced, although I'm not fond of Vader's ship. Then, I discovered Veynom's Y-Tie and I wanted to have my own. First, I've built a Y-Wing cockpit from spare parts, trying to get as close as possible from the incoming 75172 Rogue One's Y-Wing. After that, I removed some bricks from the Tie front part. A long Technic bar connect the both parts. It replaces the missile-launching bricks, beneath the Tie's cockpit. Then, I've rebuilt the top face of the Tie, replacing the hatch by the canopy, so one caracter can take place, as a passenger or a gunner for the Y-Wing's turret. I'm rather satisfied with my Ugly, but I think a few details could be improved. For example, the lack of landing gear (It's a recurrent issue with the original Tie-Advanded), and the turret's design, a bit too simple. Also, I wonder if I should replace the top canopy by the original hatch. What do you think ?
  13. This is the start of a very ambitious project for me - I intend to bricklink all of the UCS sets, buying all new parts. However, since every UCS set has at least one unique part/colour combination and many key parts in the older UCS sets are long out of production, I intend to “refresh” each one in the same way Lego did when they updated and rereleased the 10188/75159 Death Star playset. My goal is to change as little as possible on each model, preserve the original design and construction techniques, but replace all the hard-to-get parts with more readily available (and cheaper!) ones. I’ve been working in Lego Digital Designer, and the first set on my list is now complete: 10134 Y-wing Attack Starfighter The original model had over a dozen unique or rare pieces which have been replaced with parts that have featured in sets released within the last two years. Minor changes include replacing the unique copper hoses with reddish brown 6L and 4L bars and recolouring the dark orange parts to bright orange (the 1x2 brick with handle is now a 1x2 plate with handle sandwiched between two 1x2 plates). More major changes include the 6x6x3 domes on the front of the engine struts, which only appeared in white in one other set, and have been replaced with a set of 3x3x2 white round corner bricks mounted on white 6x6 plates and held in place using concealed SNOT bricks. The original engine pylons were constructed from technic axles covered with 7mm ribbed hoses that are now insanely expensive, so I’ve rebuilt the whole assembly using the 3L driving ring axle connector and white pin connectors (the current version has a slot in it, which is annoying but can’t really be helped). The overall length of the starfighter remains the same, but the sizes of the axles used have been altered. One part which perhaps should have been replaced is the 30359b “Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End”, which only appeared in white in 2 sets but is relatively plentiful on bricklink (I was surprised to find one German seller with over 1500 of them in stock). However, the most significant change to the model is the replacement of the white wheels forming the engine nozzle (part 32077, unique to the set) with a brick built structure that adds some extra detail Here, some bricks have been removed to better show off it’s construction: I made it as lightweight as I could, but it is still twice the weight of the original wheels . I suspect it will cause the pylons to droop over time, and I’m worried it might be enough to throw the model off balance on its stand. I also hate the way it’s mounted on a single axle, allowing it to spin almost freely, but the distance to the central turbine is 3 technic half-bushes so a pin is incompatible. I'd be curious to hear suggestions for a better version. Full details of the part changes under the spoiler tag. I've got LDD and LDraw files prepared, you can access them on bricksafe. You can also view the model on mecabricks here. Any comments on the model, my CGI images, or suggestions for improvements would be much appreciated! Edit 9/7/17: Migrated all photos from photobucket to bricksafe. I am never using photobucket again...
  14. [BL] 10134 UCS Y-wing

    Hi, Some years ago I made some general requests about the possibilities to collect pieces to make a discontinued Lego set. Dunno if it was here or elsewhere, but I was fairly unaware of Bricklink and similar sites back then. The answers I got was that it was most likely no good idea to collect pieces, better to get the set complete. Somewhat discouraged by this I dropped the idea. 20160907_212210 by Jens, on Flickr Fast forward to this spring, when I rediscovered my interest for Lego and made a big leap into the world of AFOLs. I don't remember what started it, but the idea of getting the dream set was once again back. I got the first two UCS sets back in 2000 (X-wing and TIE interceptor) and ever since I laid my eyes on the Y-wing I wanted it. Considered it too expensive for me back then, I never bought it, something I regretted much. 20160619_185246 by Jens, on Flickr Now. To cut a long story short. I did it. I decided to get myself a 10134 UCS Y-wing. But not by paying a ridiculously amount of money for a complete set. Well, ridiculously amount for me anyway. I started off by digging into my childhood lego boxes, well aware of that it would give me worn pieces in wrong/old colors. I managed to get a fair amount of the pieces just by digging, about 33%. The rest of the pieces took about three months to get, mainly using bricklink. 20160905_175109 by Jens, on Flickr It's "easy" to get the dream set of yours. It's only a matter of money. The real challenge is to get it for a reasonable price. I quickly replaced too expensive parts with cheaper alternatives. It's a trade-off, I know, but ok for me. I tried to be as truthful to the original as possible. It required some minor "redesign" in order to get the price on a fair level. 20160906_164539 by Jens, on Flickr So. Here I am. I'm still waiting for some parts, and I will use the possibility to print stickers myself (I have a friend that can do this for me). I managed to get my dream set, or at least something very close to it, for a bit under ~150 Eur. And boy, is this set awesome! This is my fourth UCS (others being X-wing (first one), TIE interceptor and Slave-I). 20160906_195126 by Jens, on Flickr More pics can be found on my flickr, below. The moral of the story? Well, you CAN get that set you've always longed for, and for a reasonable price (per piece). It's a matter of patience, creativity and well, money. :) Next project will be... the holy grail of Star Wars Lego. Nuff said :D My flickr for Lego: Jens at Flickr
  15. Hi all, Sharing my WIP MOC of the Clone Wars era Y-Wing UCS scale. I did a colour swap from yellow to red on the 8037 kit and then thought why not adapt the UCS Y-Wing to the same original Clone Wars style....this is the first pass at that MOC. Update - I've amended the engines (see later post and pics below) and cleaned up the colours and engine fins a tad. A few more phone pics at http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=565968 - once I'm fully happy with it I'll do some better ones. I still need to sort out the engine fin/ribs as they are unattached at the front and hence pull outward, undercarriage needs doing and some general tidying up. I think the biggest issue will be engine droop, so need to have a think about that, plus figuring out a way of changing out the grey 18897's. Anyway any feedback/improvements/ideas welcome...
  16. Greetings All, I have been busy designing and building my Mechwarrior 4 version of the Bushwacker Battlemech (Posted in the Sci-Fi section of Eurobricks) so my Y-wing LDD sits in the corner crying for attention. Here is me hoping that your feedback will convince me to spend more time with this project My also incomplete E-wing is waving "Hi..." -The cockpit opens to the side -The landing ski is folded up right between the legs of the Droid. Reference used: Y-wing Cockpit Lego Moc WIP by Andras Pacza, on Flickr Cheers Tyutyu aka Andy
  17. Background: Uglies are commonly found ships in the Star Wars universe. Each ship is made from previously used parts that are cobbled together with welds, sealant, bolts, and the will of the Force. These ships have no registry, and they are easily acquired on the black market, for a price. They are most commonly used by criminals, otherwise they are used by those with no other choice, those who have a death wish, and those with more than one life. Featured Character: Sadly, this astromech has no official designation, but he appears in 7 LEGO sets listed as "astromech droid" on the packaging. Upon some research, it becomes known that he is the later variant of R5-D4 from the 10144 Sandcrawler. Backstory: The Rebellion has won! The Empire's "New and Improved!" Death Star has been blown to smithereens. Vader, and the Emperor himself are dead. And away from the celebrations on Endor, the first scavengers jump into the system, and they descend upon the copious amount of wreckage strewn across space by the violent battles and explosions. Bits and pieces of starcraft are collected, and welded together into the ships called Uglies... About the Ship: The starfighter, a gang enforcer's rustbucket, is the damaged remains of a Y-wing and a TIE Bomber. The ship consists of the cockpit, body, and wing pylons of the Y-wing, combined with the heavily damaged TIE Bomber wings, and some scrounged TIE engines. Top view 1 Top view 2 Side view 1 Side view 2 This is my first true MOC post, so please give me C&C about it. Thanks, and good luck.

    The Y-Wing is a Starfighter produced by Incom Corporation, the successor to the BTL-A4 model. It will be used by the resistance in their struggle against the first order about 10 years after the destruction of the Starkiller Base. The Y-Wing includes two super ion engines, matching almost in speed and maneuverability to the T-70 X-wing starfighter. The fighter has a pilot and an astromech droid with a protection system improved on its predecessor, as well as a hyperdrive. In the Assembly of this model I have based part (front) in an existing A-Wing (model LEGO 75003) market. But there are enough differences especially in the rear of the cockpit, engines and weapons. Two laser cannons powerful in the front part of the nose. two torpedo launchers Proton on both sides of the cockpit and under the wings of two large cannons of ions with sufficient power to restrain fighters enemies and capital ships successfully for a short period of time. I didn't miss the chance to teach my particular version of the most famous bomber of the rebel Alliance now used by the Resistance. Obviously enhanced digital design to my taste with pieces that I do not have. The next version is two-seater, in which incorporates a powerful canon laser on the back side managed by an expert marksman.
  19. [MOC] BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing

    The BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing, was pieced together from the larger BTL-A4 models into a more compact and maneuverable fighter. BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr Instead of lumbering into battle and trying to ward off TIE fighters with a turret, the GM7 uses its larger engine to maximize the speed of its approach and a rotating arm to keep the engine out of the direct line of fire. BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing - 4 by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing - 3b by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing - 3a by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing - 2 by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr BTL-GM7 Resistance Y-Wing - 1a by Ryan McBryde, on Flickr C&C welcomed. Be sure to vote for your favorites at
  20. [MOC] Classic Y-Wing Bomber

    When I acquired set 9495 when it was released, I thought it was the perfect Y-Wing. A few years later, I decided to do my own version. Here's what I came up with: One important detail I wanted was for the astromech droid to be able to sit perpendicular to the ship: For the engines, I kept the original 9495 nacelle and engine assembly, but bulked it up with several greebled plates. I really liked the bomb-dropping feature of 9495, so I installed it in my MOC. I hope you like it!
  21. After having modified the old Y-Wing from 1999 (pictures at the bottom of this post), I had decided to proceed similarly with the more recent 9495 version. This time I applied a dark green color pattern and some light additional greebling. Y-Wing Green Squadron by Veynom, on Flickr Y-Wing Green Squadron by Veynom, on Flickr This pictures shows some of the details that were added to the model: Y-Wing Green Squadron by Veynom, on Flickr Y-Wing Green Squadron by Veynom, on Flickr Y-Wing Green Squadron by Veynom, on Flickr And the old blue modified version based on the official Lego set from 1999: Y-Wing Blue by Veynom, on Flickr Y-Wing Blue by Veynom, on Flickr The main reason for these variants is variety of course. When exposing during a Lego fair, you may decide to have 4 or 5 yellow Y-Wings or have some unique ships. I think tend to believe the later is better for the public. Comments welcome
  22. This one is pretty much a cross between the Y-Wing set 8037 (2009) and the more movie accurate 7658 (2007) and 9495 (2012). more images to come later- my computer ran out of battery.
  23. [MOC] X-11 Sageburner

  24. [MOC] Mini-Y-Wing & Mini-ISD

    I'm putting a Planet Series mobile back together for a Spring LUG event and decided to update my previous Y-Wing and add an ISB to the mix. There's a lot of inspiration from other builders in the Y-wing especially (from Miro Dudas in particular X-wing Y-Wing Redux by Miro78, on Flickr)I hope y'all like them. Please leave suggestions for improvements. Mini-Y-Wing by goatman461, on Flickr Mini-ISD by goatman461, on Flickr