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  1. [MOC] Apollo Launch Tower (WIP)

    I may have found a solution! I was looking at the 40174 Iconic Chess Set, which builds the board from four 16x16 plates. The plates had a border of 1x12 bricks, and the seam was closed by a 2x10 central spar. I've duplicated that technique here: Can't help feeling that this is overkill and I could hollow out some of the supports and get the cost down. Bricklink says this bit alone will set me back ~175GBP or 200EUR, which is double what I was hoping, I may end up stuck with this as a digital MOC. Also can't help feeling that it still won't be rigid enough to stop the top and bottom sets of plates popping off. LDD file is available here in the unlikely event anyone want to take a look at it. The next version will include the launch tower itself, I just need to figure out how best to build the 14x14 floors given the limited selection of large red plates available.
  2. Did you bricklink 10179? Are you in the US?

    I think some of those sellers got the parts from the original UCS falcon and have ben trying to sell them for years. Since the new UCS falcon got released, new sellers have been listing them at more reasonable prices. Wow, that was a good bargain...
  3. Did you bricklink 10179? Are you in the US?

    Damn, I was too slow. Seems to be out of stock (bricks and pieces) or not listed (Pick a Brick) in the UK
  4. Translating the article to English, I see a line "At the fair, for example, the "A" button accelerated the train and slowed it down with the "B" button." So I would guess that you keep pushing the A button to make the train go faster, and keep pushing the B-button to make the train go slower. Similar to the current train rotary knob controls. While I'm not much of a train fan, I'm curious to see this new system in action, I can't wait for some proper reviews.
  5. [MOC] Apollo Launch Tower (WIP)

    Well, I'm still tinkering away with this. Starting to regret ever starting it to be honest. I've gone through several drafts of the MLP, I can only build small sections at a time due to a lack of pieces, and pretty much everything I do falls apart far too easily. My latest and greatest version (mostly because I can't test it!) features a base made of a three plate thick sandwich. Unfortunately, the bricklink best price (not counting the walls) is ~70GBP, I'm beginning to think I'll never be able to afford the bricks to build this in real life. Any ideas how I could reduce the number of plates in the bottom three layers? The interior will be sealed up, it doesn't need to look nice, it just has to be fairly rigid. LDD file is here if anyone is interested:
  6. Oooh, I'm envious. That looks fabulous! Did you make the decals on the shuttle as well? That is a neat solution. I've heard of those thin clips, but never seen one in real life.
  7. I stand corrected! It seems it was included in that set! I didn't know the set number, but if you type 2000413 into the Lego customer service for missing bricks, it does indeed list the lattice (though naturally, it's out of stock right now )
  8. Lego 60th Anniversary sets 2018

    Interesting... so how many have actually been made? I would guess no more than 10,000.
  9. Lego 60th Anniversary sets 2018

    Lego customer service appears to have confirmed that only 5000 of each have been made. I guess that means these are US exclusives and won't appear anywhere else:
  10. [MOC] Venetian Mask

    Wow, that is fantastic!
  11. Been toying with some designs in computer, but nothing is holding together well in real life. Part of the problem is that I don't have many bricks to hand for testing (a pile of 2x6 bricks, a pair of 16x16 plates, etc) and the larger plates can flex a lot. I've tried stacking a plate, a row of bricks round the edge, then an identical plate on top, that worked really well. But when I tried to extend it to include an additional plate to the side, and added a seam, everything started popping off at the slightest flex. An additional plate below the whole assembly to cover the seam didn't give much added strength, Even a wall of interlocking 2x6 bricks seemed to pop apart a little too easily... I'm starting to wonder if my pieces could have shrunk or something. I swear the Lego bricks I had 20 years ago had much better sticking power. Or have I just completely lost it when it comes to Lego design?
  12. What Causes Lego Bricks to Deteriorate?

    Storing Lego has been a great worry to me lately. You said your bricks weren't dusty and grimy, so I guess that means they were just loose in a box? I guess that's what has saved them. Your wife's set had been stored in "the kind of bags you'd use to store food in the refrigerator", do you know what kind of plastic the bags were made of? Have the plastic bags gone yellow with age at all? Many food-freezer bags are made from an acidic plastic, which won't affect food being stored for a few weeks but can be dangerous longer-term. For example, PVC (polyvinyl-chloride) plastic bags tend to break down over time and release hydrogen chloride (better known as hydrochloric acid). If the bags are completely air-tight, there is no way for the gas to escape, so it slowly builds up and attacks whatever is being stored. I'm not sure how badly this affects Lego bricks, but I've been finding that 6 months in a freezer food bag leaves my Lego bricks feeling a little sticky.
  13. Ah, I had misunderstood your plan, I see now. Stick with 56145, that's still in current production (2998 hasn't been made since 1999, and then only in white). Those ladders can be attached to (say) a 2x4 plate, e.g. as done in 10249 Winter Village toy shop. All you would need to do is get some studs pointing downwards on the base of the drill section.
  14. No, no, no, with something like this you can't build from the top down. The main chassis has caterpillar tracks wrapped around four wheels, and Lego don't give you many options for building something like this. You could use this x939, x1681, or a full caterpillar drive from chain links such as 3873 or 57518. x939 would be tricky to add a fourth wheel, and it is very small, the mole drill section would have to be 4 studs across. x1681 is better (is this what you meant by the wheels used on star destroyers?), which would put the drill at 5 or possibly 6 studs wide. I would go for 57518, which are 4 to 5 studs wide, and would give you an 8 to 10 stud wide mole. Once you have the actual size defined, then you can start on the drill section. There's so much detailing on this part that it almost ceases to be a cylinder, so you could build it studs-up, using inverted slopes for the base (e.g. this or this) and then this plate with rail for the sliding mechanism.