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Found 285 results
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Hi, my name is Josephine. I am creating Elevendale with all my Elves sets (I own them all) I would love to post images and you give me feedback and advice! Thanks. My family and I are moving house so my Lego is getting packed away . Over the next few weeks I am going to be buying pieces and sketching out designs for Elvendale. If you have any pieces that have helped you let me know what ones they are and I should be posting a base sketch in a few days
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Stud.io to blender (w/ part designer parts)
Mikopath posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hello! I've been playing around in stud.io and part designer making some custom figs, and I really want to get them into blender so I can animate them. Exporting to Ldraw and mechabricks doesn't work, the only things that stay are official parts. Any suggestions would be appreciated! -
How to create Off-road truck Cabin (front)
CrazyKreations posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi everyone, I have wanted to make an off-road truck for soo long and I just have enough time to build and design one. But I desperately need some expert opinions on how to design the front cabin for this vehicle. Does anyone have any ideas or designs you would like to share? ps I am looking for a design kinda like this: -
Two Questions: Would you consider this a proper building technique for MOC building? Would LEGO consider this a legal building technique? My Thoughts: I am personally hesitant to use this in a build as it feels wrong to have the small sprong sticking out of the bottom. Also because it's so thin there are strain concerns. However connectivity-wise, the stud hubs are the full .6 stud size and not chopped at the corners like almost all 2x2 circular plates' studs (4032, 2654, even 2655) which allows connecting at all four corners (as shown above). It's dimension make it unique. Excluding the middle sprong which runs .25 studs long with a width of .4, it provides a flat .1 stud thick platform with connecting studs on top. Also it has a .8 stud diameter with potential for positioning a connected piece .4 studs onto a flat surface. There is the argument that 3679 and 3680 are meant as one piece and shouldn't be used independently. In most sets today though they are packaged individually and connected later. I don't have an issue with using 3680 independently as it feels about as strong as a normal tile piece. However, 3679 just feels so flimsy when you hold it (though it is quite strong for it's thickness) plus it wasn't designed initially to function as an inverted connector. Conclusion: I'm still hesitant to, but because of the unique uses it proposes I'm leaning towards using 3679 in my building but mostly just for small bearing decoration uses. Since 3679 and 3680 are sold disconnected one could argue LEGO would be okay with the above use, but I would still guess they would say it is illegal. I'd be interested in hearing if anyone knows of a official LEGO set where either 3679 or 3680 are used independently without the other present.
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How to make a turret turn and elevate?
Geekman9097 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
AMX turret.lxf I've been working on a model of an AMX 13 105 light tank, and decided to take a break from the hull to work on the turret. The attached file is my LDD progress, because for some reason i prefer working digitally before I start putting stuff together. My first problem is that this turret works by elevating the entire gun carriage, including the autoloader box at the back. My second problem is that this is a small turret. 5x7, so I can't put a motor in there. To help with this, I have a gear in the center that pushes the entire carriage up and down against the side mounts. Now I need to figure out how to put the side mounts on a turntable, so that they can turn. My third problem is that mock mounted on a turn table, I can't find a way to turn the gear to move the turret. Any ideas? Blueprints I'm using: http://www.the-blueprints.com/blueprints-depot/tanks/tanks-a/amx-13-105mm-1.png, -
Recently upgraded to Windows 10 and re-installed LDD. After resolving an unrelated error having to do with my graphics card, I succeeded in booting up the program and opened one of my old build files to discover that an incredibly large number of bricks (mostly ones with moving parts) were refusing to load. Additionally, three of the brick categories in the sidebar were displaying with a bugged icon and a handful more, including hats, heads, and handheld props, were missing entirely. Finally, numerous bricks from these and other categories has been randomly redistributed to incorrect categories, as seen in the minifig parts catagory here. I haven't yet determined whether all of the parts from the missing categories are still present. What's going on, and how do I fix it? I've already tried all the solutions in this thread, in the belief that it was about the same issue I'm experiencing, but in retrospect it's very likely that it isn't. -
Building muscle car. Need help.
rm8 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I am building a new car, in style of musclecar from 60's: long and quadrat. I want that car to be agressive and brutal. There are some variants of the front grille and lights, but cant make best decision. Please help me to choose the best. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Or may be quadrat lights (right side)? If it is possible, someone make a POLL here. I dont have such rights yet... Thank you. -
Aloha! Im new here. The end. Just kidding. If you're willing, I'm in need of some help. So I'm attempting to build a custom made Venator Star Destroyer using 2x4 wedge plates instead of 2x3 wedge plates. Ive built part of the frame, however, I noticed when the plates are aligned with the central beam, the frame and plates do not align perfectly on the sides. They are off by a few millimeters, probably 1° or less. Is there a method, pattern or dimensions that would create a more accurate alignment between the 2x4 wedge plate and the frame that I have? Or would it be wise to scrap this and go with 2x3 plates instead? Note: the plates will have a slope when its near completion. p.s. eurobricks wouldnt allow me to submit a photo bigger than 102.4 KB. so i cant show the frame that ive built. Link to show the bow of the frame.
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Sorry for the bad quality, theres a limit on the size of the images. This is part of a train I found looking through old lego, and I can't find what the set it is from called, I'd like to try and put it all back together like it was. Hopefully someone on here will recognise it and can help me!
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Hi, i'm in the process of making a new MOC. It will be a mini assault on Hoth MOC, BUT with a kinetic walking AT-AT as centre-piece. I have parts to somewhat test the walking mechanism, but I don't have enough parts to build the whole MOC, so I can't acquire good footage and test it properly. I'm asking for someone with quite an impressive lego parts collection to build my moc, test it and take some photos and most importantly a video of it. Together we can improve it and eventually put it up on Rebrickable. Any other suggestions and/or improvements are ofcourse welcome as well. I will add a render of the current state of the MOC, just so you have an idea of the finished MOC. Thanks.
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Hi Everyone, This is my first post on here but I have been following some of the amazing minifig scale Star Wars MOCs' on here. I have been fascinated with them and decided to give them a bash. So far the rebel fleet includes UCS Slave 1, UCS Falcon (2017), Most recent A-Wing, I have made Intherts' X-Wing, U-Wing, as well as created a Y-wing using his cockpit and reverse engineered the main body of the ship form images. SO, to add to the fleet the Rebel scum have stolen the plans for a Lambda Shuttle.(I) They have gotten pretty far with the rebuild/reverse engineering of the design from the images on Marshal Bananas' Flickr but I have gotten stuck with the landing gear and how to connect the cockpit at those angles! I have started ordering parts for the real build. I'm about 50% delivered and will be starting on the cockpit first to try work it out in actual bricks. Would welcome your comments as well as any advice you guys may have about the build. https://www.flickr.com/photos/150280550@N02/ MB Lambda Shuttle by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr MB Lambda Shuttle #1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture4 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture5 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture6 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture3 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Capture1 by Hamish Dobbie, on Flickr Thanks! Hamish
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Hi Everyone Totally new member and first ever post so sorry if I haven't got the etiquette right. I've done quite a lot of big lego sets but I've never had a problem before and googling makes it seem like I'm the only person to have this problem and I don't know what to try next. I am step 200 of 752752 - where you attach the first big plate to the skeleton. No matter what I do it just falls apart (see picture) - not dramatically or anything but every time one of the blue, red or black cross pieces comes off, when i try to reattach it, another one comes away and so until i want to throw it against a wall! I don't think anything is bowed or anything - and in any case it doesn't happen to the same piece each time. I have compared it to the picture and I'm pretty sure it's accurate...I've even tried small piece of blutack to hold pieces in place (I really don't want to glue) and I just don't know what to do. Any advice please? Thanks in advance!
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[Studio] Technic Linear Actuators in Studio HELP - SOLVED
MajklSpajkl posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hello everyone, I was looking over the forum whether same question has been already posted somewhere, but couldn't find it, so I hope I am not doubling the topic: Q1: Is there a possibility to extend or shorten the technic linear actuators (92693c01, 61927c01 and 40918c01) in stud.io? Are there at least parts made of those in shortest and longest state and where can they be found? Q2: Is there a tool or a trick to align two i.e. liftarms, each with its own fixed pivot point to a position where those two cross (like two circles crossing each other) - is it possible to find that exact crossing in stud.io? I am putting most of my hopes into @efferman, @Zerobricks and @M_longer as I've seen quite a lot of great digital stuff coming from them. I would really appreciate any help from any other who might know something about it as well. I thank you in advance, Best regards, Miha -
[HELP!!] LDD, only one colour available in the palette...
CorvusA posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hi, yesterday I reinstalled windows (Windows 10 like before) and all the apps, LDD included, version 4.3.11, brick version 2670 ( I dont want the last version of the official LEGO page because is a broken piece of shit with the half of the pieces, thanks TLG). Well, the issue with the Adobe in the installation was solved but today I have opened a file and try to change a colour and... there is only red in the palette LOL. Kinda weird because I used this version until two days ago...even in my laptop I have it as well and I see the complete palette. Can someone helps me please?? I work with LDD and Stud.io makes me angry ( I need the double of time to make the same build, the mechanics are VERY CLUNKY) Screenshot-> https://imgur.com/a/oZjxCJa -
Long story short. One of my kids is now 4 years old and we have started to build some new Lego sets together. I have all my Lego saved from my own childhood, and I got a sudden urge to try and find and build some of the sets. Unfortunately they are all mixed in plastic bags. I hope to find help identifying some sets, and then use brickinstructions.com or other resource to piece them together. Link to images below, thanks in advance.
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[HELP] About Bracing Front of Axles
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
In my car MOC, I braced both sides of most of the driven axles so when moving the axles won't wiggle out of the beams from the torque. In the example pictures below, I was wondering if the first picture, with the brown 3L with stop is good enough for use, or if I should always place a beam in front of it to prevent the 3L from pulling itself out (as shown in the second picture). Do I need to always prevent axles from pulling themselves out or is it fine without doing so? Any thoughts would be appreciated. -
The Time Machine (Technic build - Lego Ideas)
Oilzzz posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi all. I've designed the 2002 movie The Time Machine in a Technic build and submitted to Lego Ideas. If you like it, would appreciate your support in helping it become a real Lego set. Direct link to Lego Ideas page Lots more photos and details on the ideas site. It also works! (not the time travel) -
DNR Shifter Issue
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I had a lot of problems with my MOC work-in-progress and I am hoping this will be the last of them. I am using the Porsche 911 GT3RS’ DNR shifter but the 12t gears here aren’t strong enough, making them skip and bend their teeth. I would appreciate if someone could show me a sturdier way or an example of a drive + reverse gearbox design, as compact as possible, with no gear skipping. Thank you. -
lego tank turning to one side, please help
AverageDerp posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
my setup (imgur) I just made an RC lego tank using lego technic, but when driving it's slightly turning to one side, everything is aligned properly and the center mass is correct, Could it be because one of the motors needs poles reversed to make the tank drive forwards? please help. -
Problem: Gear Gets Pulled Out
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Recently while testing for gear skipping in my EV3-powered torque heavy MOC sports car, I found this... The 5L (I believe) axle holding the half-gear I'm pointing at, which is clearly visible from the issue, moves out of the half-gear every time it skips. Indeed the axles with axle connectors connected to this gear have a "sliding axle" issue. I made a light fix by adding another axle connector, but I don't know if it will stop the sliding. Here above is the axle being pushed in... and pushed out to its maximum. Above is the issue: This piece my right finger is pointing at is in where my left points at, and it seems to wiggle enough to be the main cause of the sliding. However, I can't fix it because there is no place to reinforce the small piece. It seems from the pictures above with the axle sliding in and out that it will keep the half gear in place, but I don't know if it would under torque. Here's what happened to the last gear I had in here... completely chewed out by the axle. Have anybody else dealt with this? Some helpful feedback on this issue would be appreciated. Happy building. -
Hi. I'm a Lego Technic MOC builder but when I got into Lego years ago I have got a lot of sets and made some... interesting MOCs. I'm considering to change up my display setup to make it look better, and I thought asking for advice and suggestions would be a great idea. Here's the collection as of now: The left shelf has my MOCs and the right shelf has sets and space MOCs. (The posters above are going to be removed) Left Shelf On the top of the left shelf are cars I made over 3 years ago. They're not pretty, and I probably won't be taking them apart for new builds since I'm giving my full time to Technic. On the middle of the shelf is some custom Bionicle figures I made as part of a weird story I made on the now defunct Lego.com gallery. On the bottom of the shelf is a... quirky house with a living room, kitchen, closet, bathroom, and bedroom that I made probably four years ago, broke, and rebuilt. It serves no use and its use as a display piece is kind of worthless, but it's one of the biggest things I built at the time. The playground on the middle shelf used to be connected to the right of the house. It hurts to remember having it on my dresser not playing with it because the house wasn't pretty. I should rebuild the house into something new but I'm keeping it as a memory and since all the pieces are a different color and I have no idea what to build. MineCraft Display A ton of MineCraft sets I got to connect to each other and make a cool display. Unfortunately I ignore it often and never got to my plans to put a MineCraft wallpaper up to make it look like a set box, but I'd like to. Right Shelf Just built sets and space MOCs I made forever ago. Top Shelf I expanded the shelf above by placing two poster frames and holding them up with a bar mounted in the wall, making it easy for removal and since I don't want to use a permanent structure. I like it but it's impossible to see items placed all the way back, so I don't know if I want to keep it or not. Here's the bar it was on... And here's the shelf I put the boards on top of. A lot of the items on the shelves are builds I don't have as much interest in as the large Creator cars I want to display here so I'm open for ideas. If this was your space to display your Lego collection, what would you do? How would you display creations you like and the ones that are not as interesting?
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Hi. I was working on my car MOC (with a four-speed gearbox designed by Sariel) and had some unfortunate events happen. As stated in the title, the differential is somehow making the gear ratio higher than I need it. The gear moving the diff is moving at the same speed as the power input, but the wheel hub moves one rotation for every 3/4 rotation that I move the input shaft. Is this differential piece supposed to do this? I want the wheels to move at the same speed as the motor at 4th gear, which brings me to my next problem. I hear rapid-fire clicking noises every time my car is in 3rd and 4th gear. This happened to my other MOCs too, but I was able to solve it. Since the car is to be powered by two EV3 large motors, I actually believe there might be a clutch mechanism in the motors such as in the Technic linear actuators that also make a terrible clicking sound when they move all the way up or down. Whatever it is, I'm open to responses and hope the Eurobricks community could provide an explanation and solution about both of these issues. Here's some pictures, the orange and red pieces in the first pic were for testing the rotations. ' Thank you for your time.
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I need help with a small section of a MOC. I've created a rock wall out of a bunch of 2449 1x3x2 inverted slope bricks - I stack four of the bricks on top of each other, there are 18 columns of bricks, and each column is raised two plates higher than the last one. However, each slope brick is only attached by one stud, which is a very weak connection, and ultimately they will need to help support a large rectangular roof that will sit over the entire chamber. Any idea how I can connect all of the slope bricks together to form a strong, solid wall?
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Need Help With Drivetrain Reinforcement
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I was working on my MOC and I found there was a lot of gear skipping. The skipping comes from this, a small gear with bracing on only one side. The finger on the left points to what pieces the right points at. If I remove the bush that the right is pointing at, there is no other piece to put there, because it will rub against a 24t gear. I also can't make the axle longer because right in front of the bush is a 4L with stop with a different gear ratio. I can't find a solution in how to support this axle and I would appreciate some help, thank you. -
Space Issues With EV3 Large Motor
StudWorks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
This is a 1:8.3 scale Technic MOC car I am making powered by EV3. Things have been going well until I ran into some space issues with some Large Motors. I wanted them to be vertical, but they were too big, so I'm trying ways to get more space so the motors won't be very visible when I build the exterior. In the right picture, I positioned the motors at an angle to save space, however it may make the rear too long. The maximum room I have (according to blueprints) for the motors is 2.5 inches away from the rear wheels, so I need to save a lot of space or I have to expand the rear. All in all, I have to position the motors where they are not too high or not too far from the rear wheels. I'd thought I post this issue I have because I wonder if there is any other better way to do this. Thanks in advance for any thoughts or advice.
