Doug72

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About Doug72

  • Birthday 03/31/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South Shields - Tyne & Wear
  • Interests
    Cycling, Railways, Industrial Archaeology

Extra

  • Country
    England
  • Special Tags 1
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/uploads//gallery/album_241/gallery_8966_241_2675.png
  • Special Tags 2
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png

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  1. WOW, look forward to seeing it action.
  2. A MOC is never finished until you stop working on it ! When building a MOC I tend to build sub assemblies to test out geometry and gearing etc, and refine it before incorporating into the build. The sub assemblies I keep for a while to see if I can make any further improvement or can be used in the future builds. My last large MOC had interchangeable undercarriages, wheel or tracked. It is now back on the wheeled undercarriage but track version kept (for use on potential builds) and to be further work on to improve the subtractor unit & I have several Sub Units versions dotted around my Lego room. When ideas come into my head or someone posts solutions I try to see if they can be worked into future builds. During any MOC build I am always thinking what can I build next with the resources to hand. I keep recent MOCs & my favourites (especially my crane MOCs & self contained GBCs) but others are dis-assembled, to make room on my display shelves. Some sub assemblies are kept for new MOCs or improvement etc.
  3. Sorry for late reply, must have missed this post before. It was made by me awhile back, the white part is a 3D printed 3 x 3 x 3 worm gear box by Efferman. The lift was not reliable as hard to get the balls to load without jamming. I must have missed this post before, it worked OK without flinging balls, by using 12t double bevel gears it help get rid of gear backlash & kept the lift arms in step. Blue axle pins used instead of tow ball pins to stop balls sticking & Not moving onto next lift arm. Long arm used to get enough height so balls rolled back to the start again.It worked fine.
  4. Thanks but credit should go to Jonas who developed it and made the instructions. I mearly adapted it to suit my proposed layout which have to fit on our dining table until proven before moving up into the loft to form part my Lego Train layout. The 180 deg t/t will replace the ballon reversing loop and the 90 deg will replace standard Lego 1/4 circle curved track. I hope to keep it fairly narrow. Doug
  5. Now adapted the @Jonas turntable for the Akiyuki train system to give 90. deg. turn, very useful for a more compact layout. Train car reversed by hand for video demostration - hence the shaky camera !!
  6. Nice MOC & presentation with a good balance of text & images - well done.
  7. @Jonas Thanks for the turntable instructions. Downloaded the lxf file and followed the generated building guide. At times found difficult to follow as parts are shown put in place before other parts have to added below later in the build. Finally got it built and tested: Had a few teething problems with it working OK in one direction but not the other when the train car would derail as it left the turntable. It was also rougher turning in one direction than the other way. Finally found the problems:- An 8T gear meshing with the 24T gear was rough due to a slightly bent 8L axle - now changed. 8T gear was also rubbing on the last tooth of the gear rack as unit rotated. I was using the new 8T reinforced gear - now change to old style 8T gears and working OK in both directions smoothly without rubbing. Video: note unloader build not yet completed. The jolt as train enters turntable the 2nd time is due to track being 1 plate too low - now fixed.
  8. Thanks for that answer. I sometimes find it quite hard to see where black parts are added to existing black parts unless zoom up instruction page. I have now used yellow 1 x 2 plates & tiles to fill the gap. I am now using where possible 1 x 2 bricks with 2 pins instead of 1 x 2 brick with 2 holes & 2 pins, they are very low cost and easy to get in the UK. Slowly getting to grips on how this train system is built and functions. Is there any information somewhere on how to syncronise the modules, ie. reverser / unloader - loader / reverser etc.other than trial & error. Hope I have enough space to build a layout & run it.
  9. The problem:- After completing the build of unloader and reverser modules, testing revealed a problem with the wheels of the motor car often dropping into the gap & jamming at the end of the Lego track section before it runs along the red beams. I have ensured track horizontal at the entry point. When it sometimes worked the ball carrier lines up and unloading cycle is OK. The solution:- Last section of Lego track replaced by 16L rail track beams which eliminates the gap. Overhead view: Close up view: UPDATE:- Now found why wheels were jamming at end of Lego track. I had omitted to fill the gap in the track run with 1 x 2 brick with 2 holes / 1 x 2 plate / 1 x 2 tile stack !!!! However the modification I came up with does work.
  10. Many thanks for the instructions - I will definitely build two for my proposed layout. One 180 deg turn as a reverser and the other 90 deg turn to save using standard lego track curves for a more compact set up. Have enough parts this time. Doug
  11. I used the version which triggers every 180 degs. I will check again to make sure I have used correct modules. Now got it working & seems OK. I seperated the rreverser from unloader twiddled with the drive to unloader a bit and re-connected them and it works !!!!
  12. Now built the reversing module using black shock absorber and the unloader module (without shocks) and coupled them together. Motor car runs in OK and the unloader lifts the ball carrier BUT motor car departs before empty ball carrier is placed back onto the motor car. Ball carrier stays in vertical postion on the unloader.the Any tips on how to syncronise this ?
  13. Thanks , the ones I tried are from the Unimog and probably too strong. The ones on order are black with normal springs, I will try them first to see if they are OK., if not more ordering. Which shocks absorbers did you use ?
  14. Now recieved more parts I needed to progress this build, 1x2 brick with 2 holes & 1x2 brick with axle hole plus correct 1 x4 x 3 panels. Just waiting on black shocks to arrive which seem scarce in UK / EU. As you say you have to pay close attention to following the instructions - hard to with the limited studded spare parts I have .It took quite awhile to build the curved unloader section strong enough. So far have built one motor car and the passing loop module. I can now finish the reverser / loader / unloader / through unit plus another motor car. re your turn table module, would it work OK if only rotates only 90 degs instead of 180 degs. want to use it as an alternative to standard lego track curves which take a lot of room. I will probably use two units, one to reverse direction after the through module and another for a right angle turn. What is the purpose of the two yellow shock absorbers in the unloader module ?