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Found 9 results

  1. I've been starting on the bodywork and have added a quick clip of a flush mounted door mechanism. I'll periodically add bits until it's done, enjoy (Above pic is a link to video) This is my current supercar WIP. It has fully independent suspension, torsion bar, cantilevered front, typical rear, and sway bars. steering with attached steering wheel one servo, drive 2x XL, custom miniature V12 engine on an AWD chassis with a remote driven four speed sequential gearbox powered by an M motor. Race jacks with remote compressor, adjustable rear wing, tilt steering wheel, pedals with feedback, adjustable with single lever tilt and slide seats. Photos: Flush mounted door hinge operation by Dugald Cameron, on Flickr Let me know what you think! Video edit and teardown to follow!
  2. After seeing Lego's 8860 modern version from 3 sets of 2017, I liked it alot, but I have no nostalgia otherwise for the 8860, while I do for the 8865. This was the first Lego "supercar" I build when I was about 8 years old. Alot of people find it ugly, but I can never hate on this model. So it felt perfect for my "tribute" to 40 years of Technic. I tried to copy as much functions from the original, I decided not to add any new functions that the original didn't have (wether I had room for that in the first place is another thing). The functions are: - 2 speed gearbox (first gear 2:1 and second gear is 1:1, of course like the original: linear) - Full independent suspension - 4 cylinder engine - Working steering wheel (sorry no HOG Lipko ) - Folding headlights - Adjustable seats Features I could not get into a model of this size were a neutral+third speed for the gearbox and a differential at the rear. I could have probably made a rear diff work, but it would mean I'd have to sacrifice the rear independent suspension and build a live axle. I decided the value of having independent suspension at the rear was of greater importance as a tribute to this model than a diff. LDD available for download here (Thanks @LvdH and @Didumos69 for the help on the LDD and the 9L liftarm in front of the model is for dash, supposed to be placed behind the steering wheel) A couple of more images: If you wonder why I didn't use the 2017 part of pinhoel with 2 axle ends on the driveshaft towards the gearbox. That was my intention, but I don't own the part yet and after mounting the gearbox on top I couldn't detect any play in that part anymore, so instead of breaking down the model to get that new part in there I decided to leave it as this. I tried to copy as many details of the engine as possible. A custom V4 engine worked best instead of the standard Lego engine parts, because I could mount the exhausts better and have the transparent red in the centre of the engine (4L lightsaber) where the original had 1x2 transparent red bricks. For the centre console I tried to mimic the original as well. I used a 3L blue liftarm as gearstick because his big brother has it too, same goes for the antenna being red for the headlights. The reason why that isn't simply an axle with a red bush is because from the front view that is visible above the dash and I don't like that. Also, when the headlights are up a bush in that position makes it harder to steer. While I can perfectly fit the mechanism on the passengers side, that felt out of place, so this looked best to me. Folding headlight, simple but effective Adjustable seat's maximum laid back position to keep a seat in its adjusted position I decided to use rubber 2L liftarms below the seats (behind the LBG bush). A little turn of that LBG bush and the seat won't move. Of course I made pictures with its big brother: Which brings me to a problem of this tribute: scale. I originally wanted to use 30.5mm tires, but that mean I'd have to make a suspension that was about 9 studs wide, 10 studs wide if I decide to ignore the fact the 30.5mm tires are far too wide to be in scale. However, I couldn't make a 10 stud wide front suspension that felt strong enough to mount the rest of the car to. While I managed a rear suspension in 10 studs, it looked very flimsy So I decided to slightly scale up my model with the use of these 37mm tires. The end result was a scale of 1 : 0.48 (sorry engineers for this crappy notation ). However where the 30.5mm were far too wide (2studs) for scale, these were a tad worse . To compensate for this I decided to make the suspension smaller in width, so that the total width with tires included would be in scale (edit: and this width is what I based the "1 : 0.48 scale" on, the tires actually needed to be 39mm to be in scale for that ratio and not 37mm, but those don't exist in any way from Lego, the next is 43mm which would be such a significant upscaling that I didn't want to do, 2mm is barely visible I think and allowed me to create a smaller model /end edit). That resulted in this 11 stud wide suspension, which was alot better to work with for mounting a body to it. Also the rear got some much needed inforcement to remove the flimsy look of the 10 stud wide suspension. So with having a scale that basically meant 2:1 it was easy to work with, for bigger sizes I used the 0.48 and for small stuff (4 studs or lower) I used 2:1. The engine is 1 stud too high in scale, but this I could not combine lower with the suspension. I am glad it it's still (just barely) under the "rear window". Thanks for your time looking at my little model.
  3. Hey, Recently I have been trying to build a 4wd desert buggy with independent suspension on all wheels. My problem is that I'm not succeeding in creating a strong front independent suspension with steering. I know there are online a lot of guides and stuff, but they wont work for my 9 studs long suspension arms. Does someone know how I can do this efficiently and strong? I use the unimog wheels and I dont have the front wheel bearing with two knuckels. It would be much appriciated if someone can help me with this. greetings, Nanoscript
  4. So after building the jaguar 4x4x4 I got an idea to make a lighter, less part destructive version. The main idea behind it is to combine motor placlement of the fox 8x8x8 with doble wishbone suspension of the jaguar. This kind of setup enables the model to use only 2 gears/wheel and keeps the wheels always parallel relative to the body. Here are first preliminary pictures: Compared to the fox and jaguar, here are the improvements: - The servo motor is placed closer to the steering rack, therebye more-than-less removing steering flexibility - I am using two steering racks per axle for aditional steering system stiffness - Suspension is now almost horizontal and takes little room - Angle of the suspension travel is 30 degrees/wheel - Foxes's proven concept of the motor gearing eliminates the possibility of breaking gears/joints - I plan to use V2 receivers for that extra bit of juice - Shorter wheelbase allows for better steering radious and offroad performance - less likely to hang on an obstacle - Lower, more stable design - more room left for interrior UPDATE: Its been a while... But here are the new pictures and the video I improved model a bit, raising its ground clearance and removing some parts on the underbody, so its harder for it to get lodged As usual I also made an LDD file, which you can download here. And for rebrickable click here.
  5. After watching some youtube videos I noticed some trucks had some weird suspension on them... It looked something like this: So naturally I started investigating and found that this is a type of setup called a twin beam suspension. So I tried to replicate one in Lego. To explain the concept behind this hybrid, here's a series of stages leading from live axle suspension to the double beam setup: In order: Yellow setup is a live axle Red setup represent the change from dependent suspesnion to independent suspension By extending the half axle lengths (blue) we get a lower change in wheel angle relative to the drive surface (camber) And finally by extending the swing arms PASS the center point we get a double beam suspension And here's a version with drive and steering: So what are the advantages compared to the live axle? - Its independent, which as name suggest aloows the wheel to work independent from each other - Lower unsprung weight - Less moving parts - to keep a live axle in place you need several linkages. Here the axle pivots around one central point And disadvantages? - Complex design, the axles have to be made to travel pass each other without interfering. - A need for a CV joint which needs to allow the axle to slide in and out - Not as robust - Hard to implement portal gears without making the wheels slide sideways excessively - Camber changes are still present I also made a video explanation of the principe. You can skip to 4:30 to see the final version in action: So the final question. Is it useful? Fo me as far as the Lego version The disadvantages outweigh any possible advantages. Also lately I have been working a lot on long travel double wishbone suspension which outperform any other previous suspension system in almost all categories. The only usefulness in this design I see is realism, if you are building a replica of a truck that has such suspnesion. Because I want to hear your opinion, here's the LDD link to the suspension, so you can try to make your version and improve upon my prototype: Download prototype here
  6. So after 3 months of working in another town, away from my precious bricks, I am back! I had to return the 4 borrowed wheels from the fox, so I came up with an idea to make a smaller 4x4 off roader with the same amount of power. This is the crazy result: If you look from the side, you can see the model is quite short for its size, which is good for offroading. Also notice the 8 hard shock absorbers giving this beast a lot of suspension travel. There is even an interrior, which can be accessed via gullwing openable doors: I am very proud of the styling, there are no major gaps and almost no straight or perpendicular lines. Now for the performance... I found a way to harness the power of 2XL motors/wheel without breaking gears (too often that is). Each XL motor is placed on opposite sides of the swinging half axle so that their torques cancel each other out, therebye having minimal effect on suspension. The only gears capabale of withstanding such torque at perpendicular angle are of course knob gears. The hub assembly is simillar to the one used in the Fox, but with built CV joints capable of handling 2x the XL motor torque. But even so sometimes an 8 tooth gear may fail if a foreign object is jamed between gears and the wheel is blocked Even though the models tends to kill gears on occasion its still quite relaible for its massive weight of some 4 kilograms. Dimensions: Length: 47 cm Width: 25 cm Height: 21 cm Here's the video of the Jaguar in action: Oh and of course the most important picture of them all Though there's not much to see, but I like the arrangment of the components, its clean.
  7. I've started on a chassis that will eventually be used to build a supercar with, as per the unofficial Technic rite-of-passage: Notable features include a floating differential setup that's borrowed from Thirdwigg's 8081 RT MOC (found here: The always necessary underside shot: The right and left sides, respectively: The back end: And a shot from the top: A lot of this is placeholder; the entire front steered suspension setup is also borrowed from Thirdwigg's MOC and as such is held on with the power of Grayskull wishful thinking. In addition, the chassis is about as short as it will get due to the fact that the drivetrain is artificially long to avoid issues with the half-width offset generated by the floating differential, and the servo motor is set directly end-to-end with the L-motor. Finally, I think the chassis overall is a little too tall for a supercar, and I would like to lower that somewhat. Basically, I'm looking for what I can improve to make this a bit more compact (and yet still have room for a battery, something essential I forgot to put into this) and what I can do to make it stronger. This project is derived from the thread I made recently about developing a compact suspension ( - as you can see, I ended up using Thirdwigg's solution as it was going to be much better than anything I could come up with in a reasonable amount of time. Let's finish off this post with some nice pictures of the rear drivetrain, with and without the various supporting elements!
  8. Hey everyone, As many of you probably already know, I made a WIP topic a while back for a similar kind of buggy, but..... I had not realized all the stuff that I had to do before beginning the buggy project, so finally the weather is getting nicer and I began the project once more. This time, since I've decided to go for a light and durable kind of buggy, I am using 1 L motor directly driving a differential and a Servo motor for steering. Along with a Rechargeable battery box and V2 receiver for the power source. It also has full independent suspension, which needs some modifications at the moment: So that's what I have so far..... The big problem I have is that the suspension is to hard for off road terrain (grass, dirt, small rocks). This needs to be fixed, especially because the chassis is pretty low. Another problem is the tendency to understeer on dirt. I hate understeer so much! Unfortunately I don't have any solution to this problem because I want to keep it as light as possible so adding some kind of weight in the front is out of the question. The only other thing in the front besides the servo, is the receiver which will actually be placed more in the middle of the chassis. ( Also the grey 15L liftarm that is placed over the front axle is just to keep the suspension from bottoming out since there are no shock absorbers at the moment for test driving)
  9. The previous attempt at a large scale car failed because it was not strong enough for the drivetrain, and my attempts to make a sturdy chassis around it were not so great because of the vertical placement of the buggy motors. I have sitting on my desk now, a 2nd attempt at a large scale rc, with a much more simple and robust suspension, which will eventually use the new f1 hubs, at the moment I used the dark bley mog hub because of it's dimensions. I placed the buggy motors in a clever fashion, so there are many bracing opportunities for the rest of the chassis and the rear axle. Because of the eventual weight of the vehicle I had to put a combination of various shocks to get a perfect balance between soft and stiff-soft enough that it will absorb bumps and jumps but stiff enough that it wont bottom out (hit the ground) because there is a lot of travel and not that much clearance, and I will use the same wheels/tires as on the 42000. Photos: Enjoy!