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Found 10 results

  1. Dear folks, Don't know if this forum is in need of 'yet another AWD front steering', but decided to post it anyway since it may have some interesting features to share: - Compact 5 stud high modular design - Strong, double suspension per arm - Embedded cross block, to prevent bending axles - Adjustable steering arms to enable toe-in and toe-out (and as a side effect, prevents damage when crashing) - Ready for (2.4 GHz RC) servo steering ;) I needed a flat front module to fit my chassis, but didn't want to use the 'old' 3 stud high Wheel Hub (50301). It simply has too much friction in the turns and breaks too easily. Furthermore I wanted to use the universal joint (61903) in stead of the cardan cup (92906). Since I'm putting significant torque on these joints, and it turns out the universal joint is much stronger. However, this does requires the wheel arms to pivot 1 stud wider than using the standard config. Using the 5 stud high 11949 front wheel bearing and bound to a maximum height, I needed a way to fit suspension within this height. Very happy with the result. Anyway, have a look if you're interested. Happy to hear if anything can be improved.
  2. After taking apart my class tractor I was looking at the new hubs, and got a great idea. Why not create a proper tatra concept with the 62.4 mm wheels. Fiddling around in LDD I created a 10x10 concept model: The main features I wanted to have are as following: Seperated drive axle from the weight bearing axle - this way the friction is greatly reduced and efficiency improved Linked steering - realistic, simple and relaible solution for which steering angle is almost unaffected by suspension travel Leaf suspension - a simple leaf sprung suspension which allows smooth travel over bumps without weight transfer First the drive, as you can see the pivot axles are a stud off center of the cenetr drive axle, therebye carrying all the weight. You can also see the 9L link resting on the brown 3.2mm bar acting as a reinforced leaf spring. Notice the half a stud offset between left and right side wheels. Looking at the whole chassis you can see front and rear suspension are pretty much the same, the only difference bing the front steers and has one wheel per axle, while the rear has dual wheels for maximum traction Steering uses small linear actuators and links in order to steer the axles. The steering angles can be adjusted by steering lever length and position of the linkage on the red steering swing. This way the first axle steers at a higher angle than the second. And finally here is the whole truck. I know it does not look very Tatra-ish, but I couldn't resist the bright color (vomit) Rear view: I finished up the truck with a working steering wheel and a fake V8 engine. Here are the final stats: Length: 37 cm Width: 16 cm Height: 15,5 cm Weight: 1200 grams Gear ratio: 1:2,78 powered by a single 1 XL motor Expect a video of the truck soon P.S. I really hope this model will inspire more people to build models at such scale.
  3. Hello all, I have a few questions regarding the use of 2 L-motors for powering a crawler. I have done some research and have not been able to find many MOCs that use L-motors for drive, does anyone have any advice on using them instead of 2 XL motors for drive. I know the torque output will be less with the L-motors but the overall speed will be quicker. If geared properly couldn't a L-motor be able to closely match an XL motor, but spin faster? Netting me more of a buggy type of crawler instead of a pure crawler? Also if I were to use L-motors I can keep the overall size of my axles smaller. One of the downsides is the power draw from the 2 L-motors will be too much for a Lipo battery setup, correct? I'm building some custom axles in LDD and cannot make up my mind which way I should go with my PF, XL drive or L drive motors. I have designs for both size motors, any advice or experience would be welcome, thank you!
  4. Only two axles through a Lego turntable (the 48452cx1) has always irritated the more experienced Technic builders, stimulating them to work out many different solutions. Actually, some really clever solutions have been found, but most of them cause too much friction or require too much space. I have succesfully tried to do an attempt too, thanks to 3D printing and a good friend, he designed the CAD model of my solution. I can say that my solution has low friction and consumes much less space in comparison to the existing solutions. More of the story and some more pictures can be found at I have made an elaborate video about the problem and the process, but I think it will be 6 well-spent minutes. At the end of the video, there is another big surprise... Something that never was possible, is possible with the new parts! To get a better idea of the part, you can find some photos here: All photo's can be found on: in a higher resolution. The CAD drawing assembly: This design is extenable to bigger versions, I think that up to 5 or 6 axles would fit through the turntable. The only problem is connecting all gears in a robust way: to 'get to the gears', the outer gears have to get a bigger diameter and the problem of space-consumivity is back. I found that the three axle design really was a good optimization between robustness, way of accessing the gears and maximum transported torque through them. It is my hope that the Lego group takes over this idea and starts producing it, because especially the three-axle option ore the two-axles through the small turntable could be very useful in an upcoming Lego flagship. So, if you happen know someone at the Lego Technic department, please give him/her a good impression of the idea!
  5. Since I'm a new Technic builder I'm not so good with steering, anyone have any instructions for axles I could use? Thanks!

    3 axle bogie powering

    What is the handiest way to power a 3 axle bogie? Im building a LKAB 6 axle locomotive and i don't know how i could power a 3 axle bogie with power functions. I have seen some designs with motors placed vertical above the bogie but i don't know how to attach something like that to a frame. And what would be the best motor to power it? Thank you for helping!
  7. I am not an engineer. Perhaps the engineer or the like-educated out there can help me out. We all know that XL motors can twist axles to their breaking point..... so I have a ? regarding axle strength. Would one long axle, say, 12L or longer be the same strength, weaker, or stronger than many 2L axles put together joined by many axle connectors (see attachment)? I am thinking that the latter may be slightly stronger given that it is easier to twist and shear a long axle as opposed to a short axle. Much like it is easier to break a longer stick as opposed to a shorter stick of the same diameter. What do others think?
  8. Hi all, Please forgive me barging in, but I'm a bit desperate for some help for a Christmas present. I'm an old-school Lego builder trying to design a model of a scientific instrument. The instrument is called SPIDER; you can see a picture of it here. I used the Lego designer to come up with a pretty decent model of the main instrument (the white part in the picture.) There's a scaffolding around the instrument that does two things: first, it holds the big solar panel. And second, it attaches to the balloon that will carry it around the South Pole from its launching station at McMurdo, Antarctica. I was all set to build the scaffolding using axles and the toothed toggle part (4273). The idea was to include some 1x2 bricks with axle holes (32064) to extend some short axles, and then use the 1/2 bush with teeth to lock in the right angles. From there I can construct some approximation of the scaffold. However, as I'm sure you are all well aware, LEGO hasn't made 4273 for almost 20 years. (Told you I was old-school.) I'm sure there is a new paradigm for how things like this can get made, but I can't quite figure it out. The new angle pieces (like 32192) have two axle slots and a pin slot, so mounting that big white instrument in the pin would just let it spin around. I'd be very grateful if you could share how you would build that scaffold. Thank you! -Brian
  9. Hello, I have been doing some research on front drive axles, it occurs to me that most if not all dont axle diffs are offset from the center of the axle, as I'm currently in the prosess of building a half realistic 4x4 chassis this information was quite importaint to me, so knowing that I started experimenting, this was the resault has anyone used an idea like this before? please leave any suggestions, ideas or advice below Cheers, -Dan
  10. New Half-axles for Lego Trial Trucks - Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck V4 I accidentally reversed the gears of the portal hubs of this pic. For Lego Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck V4 I decided to make new half-axles, more resistant than they already were the previous ones, so as to transmit the maximum torque ratio possible from wheels to ground. The photo of the axle shafts made ​​with Lego bricks will be available by early next week. Project Starting from my previous axles, which had little resistance in the attack for wheels, I added the portal hubs from Lego set 8110 Mercedes-Benz Unimog U400, made ​​specifically for this use. In the portal hubs I put gear reductions for a total gear ratio of, together with other gear reductions in the transmission, 9:1, then, nine complete revolutions of the pinion of the motor, the wheel it will perform a complete one. Lego Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck V4 My new axles shafts will be used by Lego Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck V4; thanks to them will greatly improve its performance and by the end of July will publish a new article and a new video dedicated to Lego Tatra T813 V4.