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Found 1216 results

  1. This thread collects everything you think you know about 2021 LEGO Star Wars sets; discuss your opinions here! Please read before posting: Stay on target. No wish lists. Remember that this topic is for discussing sets that are rumored to come in 2021. If it's something you wish to see or something you think that we will see sometime in the future, but not something that's actually rumored to be a 2021 set, then it is pure speculation and it belongs in the Future Star Wars Sets topic. (We also have a topic for minifigures you want to see, which might be more appropriate.) No fighting. Yes, we actually have to post that! If you post news in this thread, it will not be transferred over to the 2021 News thread. Be smart, think about what you are posting and in what thread you are posting. This IS your warning! If you have substantiated news, you can post it in the 2021 News thread. If your news is not able to be substantiated your post will be removed. If you choose to post fabricated information; you can expect to be banned. It's not worth the fifteen minutes of internet fame. Do not post watermarked or confidential images; they will be removed and the poster will be dealt with appropriately. As stated in our Member Guidelines: This topic is for 2021 discussion, not 2022, and not 2020. We will make a new topic when we feel it is necessary. If your post was on the boards, and now it's not...there is a good chance it was either hidden or moved. Off topic posts, placing info in the wrong thread, or a request from LEGO to remove something; these are all possible reasons why something may have disappeared. Eurobricks Star Wars Forum Spoiler Policy With regards to upcoming sets and rumors: Read at your own risk. This is a topic about potential items to be released. If you do not want to know, stay out of these forums!!! With regards to spoiler tags: these are not required and we will not force anyone to use them. That being said, I'm sure if you did use them, the community would be a much happier place! Please be respectful of others. If a member used a spoiler tag, their intention was to keep something quiet; it was a courtesy to others. If you choose to comment on the contents of that spoiler tag, please refrain from publicly mentioning what the contents of the spoiler were!!! With regards to movies or shows: We feel that two weeks from the release date is an ample amount of time for most people to view a movie. Once a movie or episode is released, we the staff, will do all we can to curb the usage of spoilers in any of the topics in the Star Wars forum for two weeks. If you do not see the movie or episode within two weeks, then you read here at your own risk. This is the policy in the Star Wars forum, going forward. If you did not agree with us in the past, so be it. From this point on, we will not police the threads unless something becomes an issue. We ask that members not mini-mod (directly telling other members how to behave ) in the thread and tell others to use spoiler tags. If something is a problem, please inform the mods by reporting it. Any questions, please ask in the appropriate thread.
  2. Hello, I'm trying to build a TIE/wi Whisper for Rebrickable but I can't quite figure out the brick stacking method. Can someone please help me? Thanks!
  3. Hi everyone! I have been building up to tackling a 'Blockade Runner' CR90 Corvette for over a year, MOCs this size are definitely not my strong point so my thanks go to community members Bruxxy and MasterBrickSeparator for their help. First things first, here's a render of both the Tantive IV and Liberator colour schemes, there are more on my Flickr page and should any of you be interested the instructions for both colour schemes are available on Rebrickable. I can hear a lot of you screaming at your screens "Its not micro!" and I admit you're probably right, the build is 59cm long and weighs 1.6kg which is similar to the Tantive IV set 75244 from 2019. It is however the same scale (1:250) as the rest of my little fleet of ships so I feel like I couldn't not slip micro into the title. I've tried my best to make the exterior as accurate as possible, I began by dividing and measuring the obvious sections and designing them seperately in Studio, then connecting them to a Technic frame. I started with the cockpit and worked backwards, although I nearly gave up there as getting the shape right whilst leaving space for an bridge was a nightmare, the modular nature of the ship made building the rest much easier though. The central fins also proved difficult, they are the most fragile part of the ship and can be easily knocked out of position, but very luckily they fit around the cylindrical core well enough to look pretty accurate. The fins also make the ship harder to pick up, two hands are required to lift the ship off a surface until you can hold the stand in one hand. I'll keep working on his aspect in case a stronger solution is possible, I would really love it if I could make the ship one-handedly swooshable. Fininishing with the engines I came across a new challenge, how to build the 11 thrusters with enough detail but not so much that they would cost a fortune in small pieces. The structural frame is very strong, its probably overengineered but I'm pleased with how solid the build feels as the strength was a complete unknown to me whilst designing in Studio. Best of all the frame allows for a tiny interior, sadly its not 1:250 scale (Lego pieces only go so small!) but it does give the MOC some extra playability and character. The roof can be removed in two sections to expose the cockpit, the upper deck and top gunner position, a central corridor running the length of the ship and the docking areas near the rear side pods. The upper deck can also be removed to reveal the main deck's conference room, side engineering corridors and micro escape pods, which are also all removable. At the end of the project I especially enjoyed adding a little 4-stud tall crew, each little stack of round plates is probably unreconisable individually but I think that when they're seen together with the ship they really come to life! Whilst putting together the instructions for both colours I decided that I wanted to build the Liberator from Star Wars Rebels. I've been rewatching the show and I have to admit that after seeing the ship in action repeatedly in season 2 I feel that its far more exciting than the Tantive IV! I'd love to take more photos of the Liberator with my other micro ships but at the moment I don't have the equipment, skill or enough micro A-Wings to do a decent job, but I'm working on it. Here's a few photos showing the Liberator along with my micro Ghost and X-Wing, plus the interior. You can see more in my Flickr album. I've tried to balance detail and cost, so apart from a few rare colours for the Rebels crew the 1900ish parts are all common and each of the ship colour schemes will cost roughly £/€/$150 to build. I know that the Blockade Runner has been recreated in Lego many times, both by Lego themselves and the community, but I've tried to make something with a few unique features that is hopefully a worthwhile addition to the roster. Thanks for taking the time to look :)
  4. Ross Fisher

    Faction: Clan Eldar (CE)

    "Brothers and Sisters; "We're done hiding. "Some say the galaxy doesn't need us any more; that the Empire did everyone a favour with its conquest of Mandalore. They say that a warrior culture has no place in a galaxy that's had enough of war. "But I say this; there will always be a place among the stars for those who are willing to fight for it. Those who aren't prepared to let someone else deny their right to exist. "So if you've got the guts to wear the armour, I say you've earned the right to be a Mandalorian. It doesn't matter who you are; where you came from; born or made. If you're willing to stand against the storm with your head held high, Clan Eldar will stand beside you." Faction: Clan Eldar (Mandalorian Remnant) Faction Leader: @n1majneb Faction Lieutenants:@Miscellanabuilds, @JetBricks Studios Members: @Merc4Hire, @SodorBricks, @Lamborghini Waffle Sauce, @jhaelego, @JShortForJay, @PandaQuil, @Moppo,@_Josh_, @Sharkbrix, @Scorch93, @Professor Thaum, @oh whale, @Darkspear, @legofro_productions Headquarters/Capital: Mandalore (O7) Planets: Mandalore and Concordia, Ordo, Krownest (O7), Lantilles, Gizer, Azure (P8), Kashyyyk, Trandosha, Uyter (P9), Gigor, Ziost, Lur (R4), Atchorb, Bonadan, Kir (S3) Grid squares: O7, P8, P8, R4, S3 NPCs: Duchess Val Eldar, Rusty Eldar Description During the Great Purge, many Mandalorian families and clans were entirely wiped out. Some members of Clan Eldar were fortunate enough to escape by fleeing their homes - a hard act for any Mandalorian. These disparate groups managed to keep in touch and, now that the Empire has fallen, are tentatively making contact again. Soldiers Clan Eldar consisted of Mandalorian warriors that donned Mandalorian armour with black, dark green, and orange color. Nonetheless, Members of Clan Eldar, and their allies, wear a wide range of different-coloured armour, and some wear no armour at all. Times have not been kind to the Clan, and many new members still need to earn their armour. Clan Eldar does not expect its members to follow The Way. Removal of your helmet does not make you any less Mandalorian. Giving up does.
  5. Louis of Nutwood

    [MOC] May the 4th be in Hoth

    May the 4th be in Hoth. There we stood, watching the white veil that covered the ground up until the horizon, where a frozen mist overshadowed our destinies. For a moment, the world stood still before the earth began to shake beneath our feet, one stomp at a time. Numb fingers tightened around my blaster, waiting for the inevitable unknown. And from behind the pale clouds, a four-legged monster with blazing eyes and metal skin appeared to the sound of “open fire!”. But soon we realized the walker came in a heard. Even though they took their time moving across the snow, the sharp sound of thrusters crossed the battlefield as speeder bikes rushed towards the first line of trenches where we hold. I emptied my blaster and a sea of blowing bolts tainted the snow red, while our brothers prayed in silence. “May the force, be with us. May the 4th be in Hoth, today.” ________ Louis of Nutwood Happy Star Wars day, folks!
  6. Hello everybody, I made a video for the upcoming Star Wars Day. Have a look at a bunch of Star Wars Minifigs discovering my illuminated Lego City. Here you can see which experience they made, for example how Luke really lost his hand and much more: I hope you'll enjoy it! :)
  7. scruffybrickherder

    “Ugly” Starfighter Collection

    While my LEGO collection is packed away as a result of moving house, I’ve spent the last 6 weeks building out a digital fleet of Uglies in Stud.io. If you’re not familiar with the term, Wookieepedia describes an Ugly as “any type of starfighter that had been cobbled together out of parts that had been salvaged from varying origins, including crashed starfighters and ex‑military surplus.” IMHO, they tend to be anything but ugly, so I should probably call them “Pretties”. Here's an overview photo, but head over to my Instagram guide the check them all out, I have more on the way as well, so give me a follow if you want to see what’s coming up. https://www.instagram.com/scruffybrickherder/guide/uglies/17982154654335464/?igshid=sh36t6wk07o2
  8. Here is my TIE-Droid (or TIE/D automated fighter) MOD, based on set 75300. TIE/D automated fighter by Veynom, on Flickr In the Star Wars expanded universe (Legends), the TIE Droid is a cheap automated fighter developed by the Empire in the Dark Empire comics. TIE/D automated fighter by Veynom, on Flickr When the 2021 version of the TIE-Fighter was released, I was first a bit disappointed because it was no more matching in size my large collection of TIE variants. But then I considered the TIE-Droid, which I imagine to have a slightly smaller cockpit ball. As I had a few of these 2x6 modified plates with studs on the side, I started building the TIE-Droid variant. TIE/D automated fighter by Veynom, on Flickr The resulting model is sturdy, swooshable and playable (as I kept the opening cockpit feature). The wings connections are solid but still easy to assemble and remove. TIE/D automated fighter by Veynom, on Flickr A small build but worth sharing as it allows us to complete our collection of TIE variants. TIE/D automated fighter by Veynom, on Flickr Free instructions for my TIE-Droid mod are available on rebrickable. Click, download, build, enjoy, and share your completed model back! Comments welcome.
  9. LEGO Star Wars the complete saga has a TON of pieces that LEGO has never made. Here are some example below. I know there may be some reason why LEGO mas not made these but what exactly? I think they should really make these parts in LEGO. they would be so useful for MOCs
  10. *Your entry has earned 9 XP* Dathomir had taken the wind out of us… The loss of IG-828 was a major setback. He was never fully decrypted. We would never find all the secrets he had to share with us. A tremendous asset in battle, IG-828 will be deeply missed. However, the expansion of the triumvirate is infinite. We must move on despite our setbacks. Onderon had been an interest of the republic during the clone wars. In uncertain times such as these, all possibilities must be considered. A further expedition of Onderon has to be carried out… The jungles were thick, moist ground, red with iron sediment and clay covers the planet's natural surface. An absolute nightmare for our walkers… Upon arrival in the jungle, Bravura squad begins their expedition with searching the former imperial outposts. Any clues as to why the planet was surrendered would be helpful. Unfortunately imperial records had gone cold after the destruction of the second death star. Our own records were scarce, but a few reports of raids from the galaxy’s scum had been filed. The system has certainly attracted the pykes. Gangsters indicate some sort of wealth to the area. And these outposts weren’t abandoned without resistance… The jungle is also filled with ruins from a bygone era. A historical site… If we can clear out this jungle, maybe we can find more of these ruins, perhaps something of value has been left behind… Thank you for reading! Be sure to check out Inthert.lego, the designer of the AT-RT!
  11. *Your entry has earned 7 XP* Hello there, General Pax. An unexpectied visit, but a welcome one. If we knew you were coming, we would have... Well, that's the idea of an unannounced inspection. But let's go inside. Even if the planet is under imperial occupation, we don´t know whos watching. I don't trust those aliens. Then let's go. We have much to talk about. We are standing here in the montation hall. The factory is fully automatic, but as you can see, we are still using living workforce. We noticed it. And why is this? A good question. For that you have to thank the New Republic and espacily Senator Organa. After the offical end of the war the Senator run her „A Future for the Galaxy“-Campagne. Thanks to this campagne and every cooperation gets a repayment, if they give refuges work. So in other words, the New Republic is paying for our fighters. And you are not afraid that one of your workers will rat you out? No, Lieutenant. The factory and its workers is under strict control and every single republic official in the system is paid handsomely to keep their distance. I can assure you, noone in this or the next sector dears to touche property of Sienar-Jaemus Fleet Systems and the Labour Union. The Republic is too afraid. They have no authority here. And how many fighters are you producing per rotation? At the moment? Around 1500 TIE/LN fighters. Thats are pretty samll number. Yes it is. But the factory is not running on full capacity. If it would, we can produce 3500 fighters pre rotation. But that would be a number too high, to smuggle the products sensibly without anyone wanting to check the papers. But let's continue the conversation in my office. I still have some fine Alderaanian wine. Gifted by Senator Bail Organa. Why don't we drink a glass, to the empire and to the Organa, who help one way or another to build this facility? Some more pictures and behind the scene: I had the TIE-Fighter lying with me for a long time, but never had the motivation to build the wings. So I decided to repurpose the fighter to use it in a factory-MOC. One MOC from my Always-Want-to-build-list. I had fun building this MOC. But there were also many problems. Especially with the conveyor belt. It's not 100% perfect, because it hangs down. But overall i am very happy how it turned out. As I promised, a MOC with more story. My first try, so I am still figuring out how. Feedback and critique always welcome. Greetings Mac
  12. Years ago I shared this build - The updated build is a complete rip-apart and rebuild of that one, save the engines which are nearly the same. I've abandoned the System-scale 'must fit minifigs' into my current builds, especially for such a swoopy, curve-heavy shape of a ship. Instead, I tried getting the overall shape as close as possible, without worrying about throwing heaps of parts at it. The result is a build that is what, about 250-300 parts? For your limited budget. It is GREAT to get this ship on the shelf. You can't have a complete Phantom Menace without it. I don't have instructions for this but I think you can see from the bottom and top there's nothing too fancy. And maybe there are some angles where I can make better choices. But I can't figure out what to do about the windscreen. There doesn't seem to be an appropriate transparent part at this scale and I'm not feeling using 1x2 grill plates. So for now the viewport is... not there. A down side (besides having no interior) to this scale is that it doesn't scale well with existing system scale N-1 starfighters, which are about the same size.. Lots of fans love this iconic ship. It's time for Lego to make one at or around the $100-$150 mark.
  13. For ages known as Zebra (a code name before release, similar to banana for Hidden Side), TLG officially announced today (July 1st) the new LEGO Art theme, starting with four sets: 31197 Andy Warhol’s Marilyn Monroe 31198 The Beatles 31199 Marvel Studios Iron Man 31200 Star Wars Sith Each set makes one of 3-4 mosaics, with the Iron Man and Sith sets being combinable to form a mega picture from 3 sets. With one set you can make 1 Beatle, 1 Marilyn Monroe, etc. The prices for each set are US$120/€120/£115. These will be available from August 1st everywhere excluding US and Canada for The Beatles, Marilyn Monroe and the Sith. Iron Man is available universally on August 1st. For those thinking this has been mentioned before, it has, but not in its own deserved thread, and basically only names of sets + theme. There was never the deserved own thread, and no pictures, which is why I’m creating it now! I don’t know about everyone else but I’m hyped for these - though disappointed at the price... Discuss here.
  14. Hello everyone, as promised here are my AAT and DDT MOCs. AAT - Armored Assault Tank While LEGOs Clone Wars AAT is actually very close to minifig scale, many of the proportions just aren't quite right. I changed the front sections shape a fair bit, as the actual tank isn't quite so round. It sort of flattens out in the middle, I also added the scoop in the front. In cross-section images it shows that the front domed peace is actually also a hatch, so I added that functionality since it was already on a hinge. There is enough room in the turret for a full droid, even with the hatch closed, you just need to fold the head down. The rear hatch can also open, revealing the droid crew, 1 driver and 2 gunners. Also did a palette swap for the AAT Lok Durd rides around in. DDT - Defoliator Deployment Tank The DDT design-wise isn't too different from the AAT. Shaping the stabilizers wasn't the easiest, but I think they came out alright. The turret itself wasn't too difficult to design, but oddly enough getting the grated platform along the side proved rather annoying. I had to leave it for a while and come at it with different perspective. As always, hope you enjoy.
  15. Hey everybody, I'm new to the community but I've been MOC designing for sometime now and I have finished my massive project. I've been working on it for just under two years, The ISD II The Eviscerator. It sits on a single removable stand measuring at 148 studs long with 19,225 pieces. I really wanted to capture that "It doesn't look like Lego" feel and try to give it a studio model vibe. One of my goals for this build was to have only one stand that the model sits on securely. This was an incredible challenge due to the size and weight of the model. In fact, it's what took the most time to develop through out the build. Overall, I'm satisfied with how the model turned out. This is more accurately representing an ISD II Destroyer. I tried to pay attention to every detail I could, based on a couple of star destroyer sources. It's a very modular build making it easier to assemble and disassemble. There is no interior in this model. Just pure structural integrity throughout the entire inside. Just the frame and stand are 6,000+ pieces, but this was my goal. Create as accurate of model as I could, displayed on one removable stand, and not having to limit detail because of weight and size. Anyways, enough rambling: You can view the rest of the photos here: Flickr Album Now here is some great news. If you want to build one yourself, you can! I have made instructions for this build that are available at https://www.brickvault.toys/products/imperial-star-destroyer
  16. Oupin88

    TIE/br Heavy Starfighter

    Hello there! I would like to present to you my first serious MOC: the TIE/rb Imperial Starfighter, also known as the TIE Brute. A variant of the good old TIE as seen in Solo: A Star Wars Story – a not-so-great film, but overflowing with marvellous design language. I loved the lumbering, asymmetric design from the first sight. This heavy starfighter could only be seen in the Kessel Run scene for a few seconds altogether, in rapid motion and bad lighting; conditions that make translating the design into Lego harder, but at the same time more forgiving. Lego never bothered to release an official set (the set wave from Solo included a wonderful version of the base TIE, which took the ‘TIE slot’ in the Lego portfolio for the following few years), and there is a handful of playscale MOCs around, smaller than what I was looking for. The source material was extremely scarce: a few freeze-frames and two-three different toy designs. Being a devoted fan of Jerac’s TIE family, I tried to make the fighter blend in among the rest of the armada, while still maintaining the exaggerated proportions of the original: the enlarged cockpit constructed with the 4x4 quarter-dome bricks and ‘arms’ fitted with additional armour. However, the most notable section of the Brute is of course the additional gun pod, armed with two large cannons. According to one of the Star Wars Visual Guides, this section had the ability to swivel. It was quite a challenge to incorporate this function while maintaining the stability of the build. After a lot of failed attempts, the final design comes down to a surprisingly modest, but stable connection. Moreover, the swivelling movement of the battery does not happen by hand – instead, it is transmitted from turning of the large, round nozzle at the rear of the main cockpit. The cockpit seats two crew members: a pilot and a gunner. The model is minifigure-scale and comprises of 1780 elements. As a beginner MOC designer, I’ll be grateful for your comments and advice. Anyone who would like to rebuild this design themselves is invited to brickvault.toys , where the building instructions and the part list can be found.
  17. 20feet

    Modified TIE Fighter MOC

    I've made a lot of special modifications myself. Hi, this is my first real post here. Let me know what I'm doing wrong! I built @Jerac's TIE Fighter a couple years ago, and I've been tinkering with it off and on ever since. This was the first MOC I bought and built, and I remain very impressed by the strength, elegance, and ingenuity of the design. I've seen a lot of TIE MOCs since, and Jerac's is probably still my favourite. I wanted to say that clearly at the start, before getting into the nit-picking! Here's what I changed: Wing Gaps I always found the holes in the wings very distracting. They're easy enough to fill with 1x4 tiles, if you remove a plate from the base of the horizontal spokes. The result not only looks better, but holds the spokes in place more securely. I added 1x1 plates to the top and bottom corners to fill another gap. Canopy/Gun Mount I was also dissatisfied with the canopy/guns/controls assembly, which is a precarious stack of rods and clips. It's fiddly and fragile, and leaves extraneous T-pieces sticking out the front. Why did Jerac build it this way? I think because the cockpit's top, front and bottom dishes wrap around the quarter domes and they need to fit snugly to approximate a sphere, so the space available to mount the canopy and guns is incredibly tight. My solution was to mount the canopy on old robot arms. They're the right length, and they have a squared off neck where I've attached the gun mounts, which helps hold the guns in position (at least on 1 axis). Top Hatch Mount The top hatch in Jerac's model sits noticeably to the rear of centre. It's a bit tricky to fix because the hatch mount connects to the top of the central hexagon, which also needs to be positioned precisely. I had to rework my initial solution when I redid the rear - more on that below. Wing Construction I love Jerac's smooth stacked-brick wings, but they give the impression of subtle stripes running parallel to the wings edges, like concentric hexagons, whereas the real TIEs have prominent ridges perpendicular to the edges. It occurred to me that I could suggest these by using tall 1x1 bricks instead of long bricks. Stacked 1x1s do not make a strong wall, but because the hub/spokes/rim design is so secure, the finished wings are plenty solid. The main drawback of this design is that light can shine through the tall seams when you look straight on, lessening the sense of solidity. But I find the overall effect delightful. I used 1x8 tiles for all the spokes, to clear some extraneous studs off the wings. Interior I spent a lot of time trying to mimic the cockpit's triangular panels in some way, but couldn't find a solution at this scale. So I went for a looser interpretation, inspired by the beautiful Inthert version and Jerac's TIE Defender. The interior space in this model is very limited (even the Defender has an extra stud of depth) but I was able to include a lot of detail. I also made space for the newer, oversized TIE pilot helmets. I borrowed the control design from the Bricks Feeder/Inthert interior. I'm disappointed that LEGO has never printed the TIE Fighter targeting display. I may print my own sticker for that. The top hatch isn't functional, but it does need to swing up for cockpit access, so I added some simple details underneath. The scale is way off, but I like the way the 1x2 grills evoke the skylight pattern on the hatch. Cockpit Side Greebling I wanted to include the little dark grey bow ties on either side of the canopy. This was challenging for a few reasons: They should be centred, which means holding a small piece in the middle of a 2-stud space and minimizing the gaps around it. Everything should be curved to match the quarter domes. I also wanted to accommodate interior detailing in this space. Finally, there's an identical pattern in the rear, around the engines. These areas should look similar in front and back (see below). I'm quite satisfied with this solution: Wing Spars The arms (technically "spars") attaching the cockpit to the wings are full of Lego-unfriendly details: cylinders, thin rings and fins, and the notched plates next to the cockpit that slope in like 4 directions at once. Their diameter is small and they need to be strong. I did my best to imitate the details while sticking with Jerac's sturdy plate-based design. I swapped the 1x4 brackets for 1x2s to clear a couple studs off the front. There are more brackets inside to add strength and attach interior details. I tried a lot of different pieces for the bent T detail next to the wings. Pneumatic t-pieces seemed to best capture the shape. I'm dissatisfied with basically every part of these arms, but I haven't seen other versions at this scale that I prefer. Most of the key details are at least present, although crudely represented. Rear The central rear ring is the last piece of the original that I altered (so far). I'd done earlier revisions of the engines and hatch mount that retained the quarter ring tiles. I appreciate their smoothness even though they're too flat, and sink the central hexagon behind a circular cutout. I finally noticed that the outer diameter of this ring should match the top hatch and front canopy – it should be 5 studs (scaled to the overall model) or 6 (matching the canopy and hatch). That pushed me to build a custom ring with the key features of: 6 stud diameter Outer cone shape Inner inverted cone, and Prominent central hexagon with slightly recessed black interior. Drawbacks: I couldn't find a way to keep the red engine centers with this design I also couldn't include the bump on the top of the cone. The top hatch sits ~1mm too far forward (but closer to centre than the original) The outer diameter is 6 studs, but only at the points where the handlebars attach The handlebars aren't angled quite right, so the clips that form the ring are a bit skewed The inner inverted cone is too deep And of course this segmented design is not as smooth as the rest of the model. In spite of all that, I think the shapes are quite accurate for this scale, and I'm satisfied with the result. A Note on Scale The cockpit is about 9 studs tall, including the top hatch and bottom dish. At that scale the front canopy, top hatch and rear cone should all be 5 studs in diameter. It would be interesting to see a TIE MOC scaled up to fit the 6x6 dish – a cockpit diameter of ~11 studs. Conclusion I've changed most of the pieces and the details in this model, without changing much about the structure or general appearance. I'm still tinkering with it. I've got some ideas to rework the wings and spars, but that's quite a big project. Some of these modifications are a matter of taste, but I'm quite pleased with the results. I'm interested to hear others' opinions. Credits In addition to Jerac, I appreciated and drew inspiration from: Inthert and Bricks Feeder: Beautiful interiors Koen Zwanenburg: Clever cockpit side details, more accurate shape of the wing hubs (although I stuck with Jerac's for now) Fuku Saku: Nice front and back cockpit details. The rear cone piece is clean and accurate, but loses the center details. Force of Bricks: Interesting arm details and rear shape. If I do a more thorough redesign I'll likely borrow a lot from this model. Pasq67: Impressive details at a smaller scale. Cereal Eating Builder: Incredible accuracy at a much larger scale. Reference Photos The EFX prop replica seems to be the most accurate model available. This gallery is my main resource. For proportions I referred to this blueprint from the Tie Fighter Owners' Workshop Manual Some pictures of original props here A discussion of TIE Fighter scale
  18. Hi, since I'm relatively new here, I figured I'd post some of the stuff I've been doing during COVID lockdown (mostly Star Wars related). I don't mean to spam this forum, so I figured I'd create only a few new threads over the next days where I collect some of my designs thematically, starting with this one. I've recently started to get into Neo Classic Space. I wanted to design the sets I would have craved as a kid. The results are these Star Wars / Classic Space mesh-ups. Instructions to all of them are up on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/?tag=15887&include_accessory=on&include_bmodel=on&include_subset=on PS.: If you dig Classic Space, please consider supporting my NEO GALAXY EXPLORER over on the Lego Ideas Platform. I have opened a separate thread for it over here: Galaxy Starfighter X Galaxy Starfighter A Galaxy Starfighter Y Twin Engine Laser Craft Polaris I Speeder BOW Starfighter Ice Dune Speeder All Terrain Magnetizer
  19. Hello to the community. Here my (digital) redesign of the LEGO Star Wars Sets 7754 Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser from 2009. It was my first Design / MOC in 2020 (January). You'll find some pictures below. The holographic briefing room can be simply detached from the hangar, similar to the original (they're connected with pins). The A-Wing is a mix from the Sets 75175 (main structure), 75003 (the front) und 7754 (detachable engine). There're are however no flickrcanons or springshooters anymore. ;-) A friendly user draw attention to a huge bug I completly forgot to consider and to test: the A-Wing is probably too long (or large) to rotate completely 360 degrees. Shame on me. :-( The choice and design of the minifigures is very basic, I had to work with the parts that exist actually in Bricklink Studio. As usual I tried to avoid rare / expensive parts as much as possible, the old printed AT-AT Dish and (maybe) the long 32 Axle should be the only ones. This will avoid frustration for users when I change mind and decide however to create building instructions. I hope you like the MOC. Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser 7754 Revisited by legolux1973, on Flickr Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser 7754 Revisited by legolux1973, on Flickr Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser 7754 Revisited by legolux1973, on Flickr Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser 7754 Revisited by legolux1973, on Flickr Home One Mon Calamari Star Cruiser 7754 Revisited by legolux1973, on Flickr Regards, legolux1973
  20. anothergol

    [MOC] Another AT-ST version 4

    Update: Version 4.0 of the one that started in this thread http://www.eurobrick...pic=112171&st=0
  21. Hey everyone, hope everyone has been doing well. I've been busy working away at expanding my minifig scale MOC collection (Still only digitally atm). And thought I'd bring you something that I haven't really seen around anywhere. A minifig scale Hyena-class Bomber. This one was pretty tricky, but I think it came together rather well in the end. The official LEGO Hyena bomber was alright, but left a lot to be desired. The overall shaping of the ship was kind of off and the walking mode looked nothing like the source material. My goal was to get mine as close as I could and keep it in line with my other minifig scale builds. This was a little harder than I had anticipated, and I had to make one sacrifice right off the bat. There was no way that I could get the legs to physically retract the way they do on the actual ship, even more so at this scale. So unfortunately there is a small bit of "parts-forming" required between modes, but I made it as little as possible. I was able to get the wing mounts to extend out of the main body to allow upper leg movement though. The other thing that always made the model look wrong was using the head build method established by LEGO. While the stickers used to make up the "face" look nice, the overall head shape is left extremely flat. It took a week or so of playing with parts, but I was finally able to come up with a brick-built head design I was happy with. While it may not be perfect, for the most part has the general shaping of the actual Hyena bomber. I then utilized variations of the technique to build the other head-like shapes on the ship, including the targeting head below. I've also included a couple photos with some of my other MOCs for size comparison. Prior to working on the Hyena bomber, I had built a minifig scale Vulture droid, but was unhappy with the stock LEGO style head. However after figuring out the head for the Hyena bomber it wasn't too hard to down-scale to get a suitable head for it too. So since they are fairly similar I'm including the pictures of it here as well. Both ships were designed to use The Clone Wars colour schemes, although it could be debated that they Hyena should be sand blue rather than DBG, but given that practically none of the pieces come in that colour, there wasn't much choice. There are scenes from the show where it does look more grey that blue anyways. As always, hope you enjoy! I'll be back soon with my minifig scale ATT and DDT.
  22. Hey everyone, today I bring you my take on a minifig scale LAAT/i or Republic Gunship. Firstly, this thing is complicated... I started working on this early last year, but took a break from it because trying to figure out how to translate the complex shape of this thing was driving my crazy. While there are a lot of really nice gunships out there, I really wanted to see if I could match the narrow profile of the front of the ship, as well as get the flare out to the back that it has. Needless to say, accomplishing that in Lego is not easy, but I think I came up with a decent solution. The entire upper part of the gunship actually tapers from 6 studs wide in the back, down to 4 in the front. The "floor" of the gunship also tapers, which is one of the most common things people seem to avoid in other MOCs, probably because it's a major pain to do and it messes with the door alignment. The doors utilize technic fig hands and mixel joints to achieve the sloping from the front to back of the gunship. The doors were a real challenge due to the angles, and my first go at it didn't have enough head room to allow for a fig to stand inside, so I had to take another go at it, but this version seems to hold up. As usual a pic with my Delta-7B for scale. And some other colour variants. I've also done some test building to make sure that this thing actually works, I was worried that with all the angles it would be extremely brittle, but it holds together better then I thought it would. Inspiration notes: Under wing supports as well as some frontal structure inspired by Caleb Ricks. Front nose roundness inspired by Maelven. Engine build inspired by Chef Aslopert. Engine cones inspired by Kit Bricksto. Flood/Search lights inspired by David Buchholz.
  23. Bigdwazda

    AT AT MOD 75288

    So, this is my mod based on the pictures from @Kozikyo86 I have to say that the mods to this set were easy to make and as always the only difficulty was parts. I had to take apart a good number of sets, mainly for smooth tiles. However, In my opinion it was totally worth it. First off, the head, Here i just added some parts to smooth out the jaw and the front end. I also replaced the black window with red, I am not sure why Lego went with black, red looks much more menacing for a robot dog. I also changed the canopy and increased the size as per the mod. Next, the legs, again this follows the moc, this was just a case of adding smooth tile pieces and added a few extra parts to the top of the leg to create a more bulky outline. In addition i added a few plates on the inside of the legs, to bring the depth closer to the technic beams. I tried to bring these totally level but it looked too bulky. I also tried making using 2 stud wide smooth tiles to totally cover the legs, again, this looked too bulky. Next up, the sides of the AT AT. This was an area where plates were in short supply so I had to use what I could find. I followed as closely as I could and made sure that any studs showing looked like they were purposfully placed. I still think the panel over the front leg needs adjusting slightly. I also added some small pieces on the leg joints. These look great from a distance and are easy to remove, i think they add a little extra interest. Bottoms of the legs, I added some smooth quarter pieces on top of the round circles. I also increased the height of these by one extra plate. On the (real) thing these parts are really high. I also echoed some of the detail on the outide of the legs onto the inside sections. All in all, I am very happy with the final result and I think it looks great on display with my other star wars stuff.
  24. Yet another LEGO TIE Fighter. How far can this classic design be pushed? How many ways are there to build an eye sandwitched by hexagonal solar panels? Is there a perfect design already? This is where beauty of LEGO as form of modelling strikes with full power, as answers to these questions are: Very far, infinite ways, and no, there is no perfect design available and never will be. In 2014 I have built this: It worked, and I think for 2014 and what was available back then, it was pretty good. It had obvious flaw though: no space for a minifigure, and it was also a little too small in scale. I was limited mostly by the fact there were no proper cockpit pieces, and my attempt with literally the only other one was... not spectacular, not to mention it needed painting with A LOT patience required. The new model takes advantage of this cockpit piece, which allowed me to push that original 2014 design further. I know, I am late to the party, years - literally - behind other designers of great TIE models, like Bricks Feeder or Rebel Builder, yet I hope I can bring something new into the T/F building scene. Originally I thought I would just stretch the build here and there but no, heheh, no way. Literally the only unchanged parts are the eight quarter (or one-eighter?) dome pieces, which are to me still the only way to have smooth and roughly spherical design without holes all around. Unfortunately when we look at a closeup of a real movie-filming model of the T/F we see how far are we from true modelling but I say we're collectively inching towards it pretty nicely. I have said this plenty of times but original designers of TIE Fighters really did all they could to make them unbuildable properly, naturally unknowingly - who would think adult guys 30 years in the future would try to recreate the design using perhaps the weirdest medium available?. The T/F is just a sphere, two struts and two flat hexes. Except: 6-diameter central cokcpit piece would require a 9-diameter ball, minifig-scaled TIE would require an 8-diameter ball and don't even get me started on sources for TIEs dimensions. If you think that Illustrated Guide To Star Wars vehicles is helpful, well, not much. I dare to say this book did awfully lot of harm to LEGO Star Wars MOCing scene. So is my TIE perfect? No, not yet. I promise though, I did all I could to make it as good as possible, with no compromises made. And this time it houses a minifig! The design is super sturdy to my standards, nicely swooshable - for a reason, but I will get to that later. Naturally having a T/F built opens a way towards the Interceptor, which for me is among the best looking spaceship designs in any sci-fi. While the core design is similar, the ball has some differences, mostly to accomodate longer struts. This is because LEGO curiously didn't develop 2x9 plates and for once I was in a situation where I can't really replace 2x9 plate with anything without compromising structural integrity. Having that solved I went onto the wing design and OH GOD INTERNET WHAT HAVE YOU DONE. If anyone knows angle on the panels and can prove it, gets a free beer. With shipping. Because the wings are angled in all dimensions, good luck guessing proper values from photos. Because of the IGTSWV book, half of the models (and I don't even mean LEGO models) existing are wrong. And then because of SW animated series, the other half of the models are also wrong... ...so my source of reference was this: Then after having all that done, I experienced another unexpected problem: The ship is top-heavy and won't stand straight. I added tiny legs on the bottom edges of wings which help a bit, and because the design is quite sturdy, the T/I requires no stand. There you have it. Yet another T/F and T/I. I hope you like the designs and I hope I managed to introduce something new to the very competitive scene. Enjoy! ...but wait, there is more! I would not build these models if not a commission request from BrickVault: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrhb3SP2lZBgguLHIWWuHOQ Originally it was meant to be just a few TIE models based on the 2014 design I had, just LDD files, but over time we developed a much more interesting designs and... instructions for each of them! The instructions are paid and please understand, it took weeks to develop them, error-proof, make the experience enjoyable and builds sturdy enough to be handled easily. Normally I do not make instructions, as I prefer to build with real bricks than to do electronic designs. The instructions are designed to have dozens of simple to follow steps with just few pieces per step, have submodels where needed, parts list for each step and a total bill of parts at the beginning. Additionally, in few places, there are notes to watch out for some particular details. I can fully understand now what LEGO designers go through and I can imagine amount of effort required for making instructions for larger and more complicated designs. I am pretty sure it took more time to design instructions for the recent UCS Millennium Falcon than to design the model itself. Thanks for watching and Happy New Year!
  25. Nuts to the Falcon. The beautiful and graceful Lambda Shuttle has always been my favourite of all the Star Wars ships, and I'm delighted to present my LEGO minifigure-scaled version of this wonder. Didn't you already make one of these, Ru? Yes I did, and well-remembered! It was ten years ago, and a large part of the reason I joined EB in the first place. You can see it here. I revised it a coupe of years later but never publicised the update; you can see it here here (link to flickr folder). I had always intended to go back and tweak the original; however this is a totally new MOC. I started working on it back in 2016, but then we moved house and the LEGO went into storage for a couple of years. front The overall scale of this version is similar to my earlier version, and like the former is based around using the 6x3 vertical windscreen also found in 2015's System-scaled Shuttle Tydirium. The other major factor is the height of the rounded sides of the body: I've used the 4-wide cylinders to give what I think is the best approximation to the real thing. These are attached via a fairly complicated variety of SNOT techniques to a ten plate-high body. Not all the parts are (yet) available in white (the macaroni tiles now are, but not the 4x4 round plates with 2x2 hole), hence the splashes of grey at the sides (or trans-clear in one spot). Starboard The wings are a composite of Technic liftarms and plates. I chose this to keep the weight of the wings down; even built like this I had to work quite hard to prevent the wings flopping down too easily. Some more views: Rear High I've tried quite hard to make this accurate to the movies. There are actually two distinct versions in the movie canon - the sleek ILM model used in the space scenes, and the shorter droopier-nosed version which featured in the Home One hangar scene. The cause of this discrepancy is apparently due to the set designers at Elstree studios in the UK having access only to a few photos of the lambda, but not the ILM model itself thousands of miles away in California. If you are interested, and for a nostalgic reminder of what the Internet looked like in the early naughties, check out Lambda-class Shuttles: the Dimorphism Blooper. I've modelled this one on the ILM studio model. Mostly, I think it is accurate, but I have had to make a few compromises. The cockpit taper - which is only about a stud-width at this scale - is impossible to render without resorting to a solid-black windscreen, and instead is implied by the exaggerated taper of the cockpit sides. The cockpit is a little deeper than the original - required to allow minifigure seating at this scale; the original Kenner toys model did something similar. High close/detail I've take a bit of a guess at the sloping vent-thing under the vertical fin; it is difficult to tell from reference pictures what this is supposed to be. Pressing the silver grille-tile just in front of this operates a latch to allow the body to open. In some places aesthetics wins over accuracy. The bulges on the side of the fuselage should rise to about half-way up the fuselage sides, and should extend back about half-way along the body, but I was so happy with the effect of the mudguard pieces here that I've left them as they are. Detail Front The seven-wide cockpit does not allow a complete set of grille tiles at the front. I may have to resort to a decal on the central tile. The technic skis at the sides would perhaps work better with the pointy-ends at the front but there was no way to attach them that way round (and they could do with being two studs shorter!). There are few canon reference images of the rear. Rather than the usual blanket trans-blue tiles, I have instead tried to show what the engines might look like under the exhaust glow - inspired by this superb render by Thad Clevenger. The vents end up looking a little square; it might be possible to improve this with decals. Rear detail The extremes of the rounded rear end look a bit square, but this is the best solution at this scale, at least until LEGO produces this piece in 2x2. Here's a view from beneath. You can see the taper of cockpit sides, and how the technic skis are a little easy to knock out of position . underside One of the major challenges I faced was attaching the rounded sides of the body SNOT to the studs-up frame. Mostly this is achieved with SNOT brackets, but there was no room for this on the forward sections, which are actually attached via an internal clip. Inside here are two very hard shock absorbers which are intended to encourage the wings to sit in either 'up' or 'down' positions; see here. The smooth sections in the middle are the landing gear doors. An essential feature of any Lambda is that it must be able to fold its wings in order to land. With this, the wing-mounted guns need to fold outwards. I've also included a chin-ramp, though it is hinged a little further back into the body of the ship than on the real thing. Landed front low As you can hopefully see, there is also landing gear, with folding flaps to cover the recesses. It is retractable, as shown below: Landing gear detail The shock-absorber parts act as a kind of suspension when the ship is landed, and provide a spring action when folding to keep the retracted gear in place. It works surprisingly well. Towards the front of the above picture, you can see the cockpit floor is mounted at a half-stud offset, which allows two figures to be seated side-by-side. Having experimented with several ways to allow the cockpit to open, I found that having the nose section slide off provided the best compromise between accessibility and strength. Cockpit interior detail As you can see, the white 4L bars that frame the windscreen are held on by droid arms, and the sloping cockpit sides held in place at the front by 1L bars with claws. It's a bit fiddly to put together. The 1x4 trans tile at the rear unfortunately exposes the asymmetry inherent in any odd stud-width construction; if it were available in trans-black the stud might be better hidden! Access to the inside is easy: the whole top slides off. The red Technic liftarm at the front is a latch to keep the roof in place; it is released by pressing down the metallic silver grille tile. I've also removed a side wall for the photo. Interior I had in mind that this is the shuttle Darth Vader uses to transport Luke from Endor to the Death Star II. It is kitted out for high-ranking officers, with an Imperial Coffee Machine and an Imperial Waffle maker. For a size comparison, here's my Lambda next to the latest official playset version. Comparison to system set I really liked that set, despite is obvious compromises of proportion (and I infinitely prefer it to the hideous UCS set). I like to think that mine is on the same approximate scale to this but more proportionally accurate. The Lambda is the end result of a long process of trial and error, and I'm pleased with the result. I hope you like it too! For more pictures see my Flickr album. C&C welcome! Rufus