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Found 18 results

  1. I am working on a trophy truck. I am having problems with the rear live-axles articulation. It only turns about 20 degrees. Is this because the links are located far away from the ball joint or is it something else?
  2. Dear moderators, please rename this topic to [MOC] Trophy Truck "Double Trouble" Hi everybody! Video is available, enjoy and comment! Here comes double trouble. Twin powered double trouble True liftarm energy! This is my new Moc. And it is ready: I am working on photo/video. UPDATE Here is some photos and info while you wait for video. Specs: Soft long travel suspension. Front independent with postive caster Rear live axle with built in Buggy motors. Rear wheel drive Self made stickers Tires RC4WD Dirt Grabber 1.55 (74 мм) - thats a copy of real BF Goodrich AT tires Spare tire RC4WD Mickey Tompson Baja MTZ 1.55 (83 мм) Weight is 1100 gr Electrics: Steering SERVO, Flying Propulsion 2x Buggy motors Fueled by 2xLiPo 3xLED lights Controlling thru 2xSBrick Internal space is filled with electronics. Unfortunately there is no free space for cockpit. Love this suspension, its articulation is great for me. I am happy seeing how it works) Suspension travel is about 4L. I will drop down and show it on video later. You know, LEGO suspension is always jerky, so you cant make big mocs drive straight, especially when it is fast and big. Positive caster helps to return wheels in center postition and fights with steering system backlash. It also makes shock absorbers work smoother and softer, IMHO. I dont like demonic "Monster" theme that is everywhere now...but this is good) Very good and realistic tires. Sad that there is no similar proportions tires in LEGO assortment. These are 75 mm with wide almost equal to medium 43 mm racing wheel. Spare tire is another type, cause I dont have 5-th Dirt Grabber. These 83 mm tire also fit in the arches, but they are bigger and harder for LiPos to rotate without stress... Model is driving fast enough for its weight and even drift donuts indoor, but outdoor shows the the weakest part - LiPo. I should try to lock differential thermistor for insane driving. After "baja" outdoor drive I replaced all damaged wheel axles and going to film its indoor's donuts and at asphalt outdoor to reach maximum speed. I hope it can reach at least 10 km/h. So "why double trouble"? - it is hard to fuel buggy motors. And here we have double of them. Here is full photo album http://www.bricksafe...rm8/BajaTruckDT
  3. This is my entry for BuWizz Fast Car competition. Features: - RWD with differential - Front independent suspension with positive castor - Rear live-axle suspension with long trailing arms - RC/Buggy motor for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - BuWizz 2.0 I wanted to make a fast and agile car that will provide some real "turbo" experience of driving. The appearance is much inspired by BJ Baldwin's trophy truck. I recorded video in the last days of March, when we still had a lot of snow and it was a bit of luck to find some clean place to make video. I am still learning how to make good videos and this was a nice experience. If you like my entry, you are welcome to vote:) https://buwizz.com/buwizz-fast-car-competition/
  4. Hello! I’m not particularly proud of this Technic horror I’ve created, but I’d like to share it with you rather than keep it to myself, possibly forever. Shortly after I learned about (and supported) SBrick and MiniZip in KickStarter, I started dreaming of building powerful, compact MOCs using a new combo: PP3 NiMh battery + MiniZip + SBrick + 5292 RC Buggy Motor. This is my first attempt at it, now that Android SBrick app (1.3+) is finally usable Functions Drive: 2x 5292 RC Buggy Motor, each connected to a separate SBrick, each powered by a separate PP3 NiMh 250 mAh battery using MiniZip. Steering: PF Servo. Front suspension: independent, soft, long travel, with “fake” positive caster Rear suspension: solid axle, dragged (didn’t figure out how to do four-link) 4x Lego LED Still haven’t applied myself to learning proper bodywork, so designing my own was out of the question. I went for an easy, fairly plain one. No openable doors, bonnet or anything. I worked with these two photos and scaled for 62.4mm tires. Full size (> 1024px): 1, 2. Photos were made really quick, during a baby siesta (indoor) and in short incursions (outdoors) no more than 20 meters from home. For now, I can only dream of having more time and freedom for this :D v0.99 without stickers: v1.0 with stickers based on video: Old school navigator refused to deal with GPS and computers, wanted just a compass (70001pb02) and a map with an X that marks the spot. Smart dude, run off with the loot. Very short of creativity and sleep, the only alternative I could think of to get rid of the demonic Monster logo and brand was a rather lame one: Music Energy. Example diff: I asked friends to vote in G+ and 3 out of 4 prefer Music, but the one who prefers Monster is my the only one into LEGO. I’m divided, will probably print them and try them on, but still not sure which ones to use for filming. I started with 1 battery, 1 SBrick, 2 motors. It seemed to run well. Adding an extra battery and Sbrick seems to make it run even stronger / faster, although SBrick developer Zsolt Majoros said it shouldn’t matter. The real reason I added the extra SBrick is that “2 ports 1 function” only works in Android app when those 2 ports are on separate SBricks. You may ask why use PP3 batteries instead of the acclaimed LiPo batteries… mainly because they are expensive, and a bit of a lottery with their thermal protection. MiniZip + PP3 NiMh 250 mAh wasn’t a whole lot cheaper, but the combo is certainly more compact, half the weight and doesn’t have any thermal protection. SBricks can draw as much current as the motors want, with just a small risk of overheating and possibly catching on fire… ah well, what could possibly go wrong? I haven’t actually managed to make the batteries warm up, they get warmer when charging. One likely reason for not achieving hotness is short life, according to this battery life calculator, they’d last 3.5 minutes at 3 A, 10 minutes at 1 A, 20 minutes at 500 mA. Can someone make a better-informed / estimation of a more realistic battery life? But there are more and worse problems, for which I sure can do with your advice! Caster angle is fake, isn’t? I mean, I just shifted the upper A arms a half stud backwards, but both A arms still move vertically. I think this is why big bumps will throw the truck’s front up rather than only the front wheel/s going up. When hitting a big bump with a front wheel, the wheel will thrust up and with it the whole car will roll to the opposite side. This results in a raised rear wheel taking all torque to just spin in the air, so the car stops until the raised wheel hits the ground again. Shifting the upper A arms a half stud backwards messed with the steering geometry, so now there’s a not-so-slight bump steering. I think this, combined with the twisting effect on the solid axle, is what’s causing the truck to steer to the left when accelerating. Too bad. Motors are hard coupled on their fast output and then geared down 20:12 twice, not including the 20-tooth to differential connection. Maybe I could / should gear down 20:12 only once, haven’t had a chance to try yet. I suppose integrating the motors in the rear axle and connecting wheels directly to them would help with the last couple of problems, but couldn’t figure out how to fit that in this body just yet. I’m also concerned that if one battery drains faster, the motor (no longer) powered by it will get damaged. With each rear wheel directly on one motor, that would result in the truck going in circles, but motors wouldn’t get damaged. How bad is this? Steering with SBrick (v1.3) as a significant latency, in the time it takes from the moment I slide my finger to a side (much or little) to the moment when the PF Servo starts moving, the truck is already going the wrong way. It’s really hard to drive straight. rm8, what’s your experience regarding this latency with your Double Trouble? If anyone has not seen rm8’s Double Trouble, I’ll put it as “my dream, properly done” Thank you for reading. If you were looking for a video... EDIT(25.05.2015): slightly better pics. EDIT(26.09.2015): I’m now a little more proud of my creation, at least the suspension seems right to me: it’s long travel and soft enough to reacts promptly to bumps, but the car doesn’t sink too much on it. I dare say it works better than most others, probably because it’s much harder to this the a bigger scale most others have been working with. The car is still not really fast, so I didn’t bother measuring its speed. I did try putting less reduction in the drivetrain, but that only resulted in lower speed due to lower torque, so I reverted back to my original setup. It’s still fast enough to be impossible to drive well, specially with the terrible latency in the SBrick. Latency is not a problem with the port tester, so it doesn’t look like a hardware limitation. Anyway, it’s fast enough to be fun. Thanks to Sir Wolf’s help and support, we finally have a somewhat decent video. Enjoy! :) And we learned many things the hard way: by failing. Fake caster angle is not good, you need real caster for off-road racing. I took the idea from someone’s supercar project here (sorry, couldn’t find it again) to displace the upper suspension arm by ½ stud backwards from the lower arm (see belly shot above). That gives you quite a bit of caster angle on the wheel (or snowmobile skies) but it does not help reacting promptly to the most serious bumps. It also screws the geometry in that the gear rack should ideally be ¼ stud backwards, but it’s either 0, ½ or 1. This results in notorious bump steering: front wheels are toes out when suspension is fully extended, and toes in when fully compressed. When this adds to the torsion exerted by the powerful motors on the live axle (see in the video how left front wheel jumps up when car starts). All in all: bad Idea. Portal hubs from 8070 are not good for off-road racing, I should have used the ones from the snowmobile 42021 (2015). They are also too expensive to go on dirt with them, so I didn’t. Differential slows down or even stops the car when one rear wheel take off. I knew this was a problem with crawlers, but never imagined how bad it’d be on a trophy truck. Damn it, I’ll never do this again. Just use one motor per wheel, and accept that if one motor runs out of battery or losses signal, you might take a sharp turn or find yourself driving in circles for a little, depending how the front wheels cope with the imbalance. MiniZip are great to get “buggy-motor-grade” power in a smaller size than LiPo batteries. PPA 9V batteries can fit a width of 3 studs, so a 5x11 panel makes for a perfect home. However, MiniZip’s lack of power switch in makes it a complete hassle to replace batteries. Should keep them very easily accessible.
  5. Hi, This is my WIP topic for a new Trophy Truck that I am planning (mainly because I have never used my Unimog tires). Tips are appreciated. Here is the steering system (I modified it from an abandoned chassis attempt) And here is the back of the chassis. It uses 2 RC motors with independent suspension. NOTE: The cross block in between the motors is only attached to one of them. It is used to prevent the motors from bending into each other. I hope that this will work well!
  6. Long story short, I felt the need to improve on my two earlier models - BJ Baldwin's Trophy Truck (which looked awful because of the wrong proportions) and Tatra Dakar Truck (which was too tall and unstable at high speeds) - and thus this model was created. Essentially, my plan was to re-use the Tatra's propulsion system (2 x Lego RC motor + 2 x SBrick + 2 x Lego 8878 battery) in a lower, more stable chassis, and to add a body looking like a proper trophy truck on top of it, keeping the whole thing as light as possible. The finished model weighs just 997 grams and reaches a top speed of 15 KPH (with 120 grams added in form of a camera). Top speed was measured using GoPro 5 camera with GPS enabled. Photos & some reading: http://sariel.pl/2017/06/ford-raptor-trophy-truck/ Video:
  7. TROPHY TRUCK MAD Since I have started building Lego technic I always want to build a trophy truck which can jump more than 20 cm drop. I have tryed many times to build fast chassis but drop resistant. And now I have made it, and all I have to say is: simple motor placement exactly on the wheels.
  8. TechnicRCRacer

    Technic Paneling Tips?

    Hi, Does anyone have any good tips on creating bodywork on MOCs? I got a lot of them from a friend + I have a lot to begin with. Any panel can be used in a suggestion (I probably have it). I am trying to add (detachable) bodywork to my Trophy Truck -TechnicRCRacer p.s. anyone know why this website takes forever to load? (in U.S.)
  9. TechnicRCRacer

    Trophy Truck Trouble

    Hi! I am trying to create a Trophy Truck, but the steering system is giving me trouble. Whenever I turn, the wheels get stuck and the whole car slows down. I am using the pre-2011 style hubs and suspension. Anyone have any tips? -TechnicRCRacer image removed due to limitations
  10. Offroadcreat1ons

    [MOC] Mini Trophy Truck

    Hello all, While I was waiting for my BL order for my TC10 entry, I worked on a small trophy truck. It has indepentent rear trailing arms, drive from 2 L motors, steering from a Servo motor, power from a 9 volt battery through a Minizip cable, and an Sbrick. It isn't complete yet. Some pictures: Thanks for reading!
  11. Good Day ! While I am still waiting for my extension wires and test pipes(for my RC motor powered centrifuge), I decided to build a trophy truck. I know there are a lot of racing version out there and I thought I could come up with something new. a cop version. It shares almost the same chassis with my previous desert patrol buggy(http://www.eurobrick...=139391&hl=) and it's powered by 2 L motors as well. In addition, there's a blower(twin screw type) attached to the V6. Update: It's raining again I guess I have to wait for another couple of days to make a video...sorry.
  12. it'll be so nice to finally be able to work on something else for a change... btw this is really a show model so don't expect crazy performance. here's another one. thank zux for it
  13. Hi there, I’ve had a harder time MOC’ing this year, so I only managed this little something. Actually, I just put it together in a couple of evenings, then spent several weeks trying, in vain, to come up with a better front, and eventually decided to let it be. I decided, it’s OK if it looks flat-faced, as if it crashed face first on a wall, which indeed it did quite a few times. Functions Drive: 2x 12799 Pullback Motor. Steering: locked with links. Front suspension: independent, soft, long travel. Rear suspension: solid axle, dragged, soft, long travel. Front protection: extended bumper to avoid further face flattening. Photos from level angles, sorry about the lack of belly shot, but I’ll make up for that below. You might wonder, why not use the lime rims from 42047. I thought of that, tried them on, then decided against it. The original truck’s rims are relatively small and the tyres are big, so I think black rims with lime pulleys look better: And since I had a 42047, if only for the rims I didn’t use, here’s how they look together: I settled for this small build partly because most of the free time I got was not suitable for building with bricks: in the dark, save for the screen, with only one hand free and with a baby conditionally sleeping. That is, sleeping under the condition that she stayed in my arms Much of this time went into reading, so eventually I made it through the MLCad tutorials (Digital building with MLCad and running LSynth through MLCad). Easily the best investment in on-line reading this year, and here’s the MLCad model :) I also managed 2 passable renders from the MLCad file, although I’d be pressed to remember how I made them… there was some batch/shell scripting involved. I'll link them rather than embed them, they are 360 views so quite heavy: 1, 2. I did try LDD but honestly it soon turned out very frustrating, having so little control over parts positioning along the 3 dimensions, turning/articulating parts around my (not LDD’s) desired axis and the embarrassing lack of pullback motors. Last but not least, we had some fun throwing it around with my friend Sir Wolf: Also submitted to Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.c...ullback-edition
  14. Hello all, I present to you my newest MOC, a trophy truck, called Firestorm. I started this project recently, and decided to share it on EB. It is still a work in progress, so not everything on the truck is final. Any comments and suggestions are welcome. The model has: adjustable caster angle (thanks for the idea Sariel), connected independent rear trailing arms, a Servo for steering, and 2 L-motors for drive. I am also working on 2 other chassis that are still in development.
  15. Hi there guys! It's been a while since i built something, mainly due to grand theft auto V ahah... Anyway, i got sponsored by an italian lego shop called Mangiobricks so i decided to build something with their logo like it was a racing team :D I got inspired by Egor and his sunset truck so i decided to build my own version of a trophy truck! It has 95% tubolar chassis to keep it light and simple and the body can be dismounted completely, without compromising the rigidity of the chassis itself. Suspensions are really soft to absorb every bump and avoid rolls what else...the RC motor does its job, the truck drifts on smooth surfaces :D Measures: 30,5cm x 14,5cm x 13,8cm Weight: 550g Features: - Front independent suspensions - Differential - Tubolar chassis video:
  16. gsia17

    Trophy Truck

    Trophy Truck I'll not tell a lot about cars for "Baja" racing, because nowadays it's quite pupular theme for building MOCs. Camburg Racing's truck was taken as a basis. But I didn't try to make full copy I wanted to build a large detailed model, but save the good dynamics, so I was forced save little weight. Total weight of my model - only 1938gr. Technical specification: 2 buggy motors for driving M motor for steering Suspention: Front - indepented Rear - axle with long arms Photos: I had some problems with suspentions to get a realistic work. Buggy Motors decided to plug directly into the back axle. And some outdoor photos: Video:
  17. Hello again, Today I present to you my final MOC before I begin college. At the beginning of the summer I had some trouble with the custom battery in this model so I had moved on to the corvette. Unfortunately I did not finish the corvette in time, but I did resolve the battery issue in this truck. This small scale trophy truck was constructed off the guidelines given for the real life truck. These trucks are massive, with 39 inch tires, and suspension travels of 24-28 inches in the front and almost 30 inches in the rear. The wheelbase is about 125 inches long and 93 inches wide. The somewhat light and agile body is paired up with a 700+ horsepower motor, making for one very fast vehicle. My goals in this model were speed and long suspension travel. In order to overcome the battery pack limitations, I purchased one of z3_2drive's custom batteries and receivers. This rechargeable battery really packs a punch. Drive is powered by a buggy motor and the steering by the servo motor. Now time for some photos! In an attempt to make the model stick out even more, I used the very unique blue panels from the 41999 BOSS Crawler. Though it did pose some limitations in the bodywork, I think it looks really, really cool. I also really like how the back turned out. Though the real trucks often do not have lights in the back, they certainly help to dress it up. The spare tires and the grill hide the rechargeable battery. Here you can see the large suspension travel in the back. Trophy trucks usually have 4-link suspension in the rear, which is what I emulated here. Just like the real trucks the rear suspension is dampened. For my model, I used the old pneumatic cylinders with only one port at the bottom. You can also barely see the battery hang down from above. Here you can see the underbelly, I am starting to get the hang of building studless! And the video, one of my bests to date. And more pictures: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=546838 I hope you enjoyed looking at this model as I had making and driving it. As I am leaving for college tomorrow without my legos, there will be no more creations until winter break. I will continue to lurk though! Regads, Tim
  18. I present to your attention my new MOC "Desert Monster." Features / Functions: 1. Rear-wheel drive with 2 buggy motors from slow output. 2. Front: independent suspension. 3. Rear: live axle. 4. Lightweight body. 5. Length 42 cm. 6. You can easily drifting Video: