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Hello LEGO Action Figures community! I build 1/12 scale fully posable figures (like GoodSmile Figma or Kotobukiya figures) of anime characters and I was reevaluating my arm design. Here's how the arm design I've been using currently looks like, the one on the left I use for short-heighted characters and the one on the right I use for characters who are average-heighted: This design has been reliable for my first few figure creations, but I am facing two problems. One is that the short arm (left) is very crude and looks ugly. I think I made the arm too short, but there are of course, many characters that call for short arm length. I try my best to make my figures' arms as articulated as possible, but I would like to find a way to make arms, short and long, with the exact amount of articulation, but that are more realistic to actual human arms, which is really difficult to achieve in 1/12 scale. The second problem is that both arms do not have the articulation needed to spread their arms out like this: So I tried putting a clip on the end of the larger arm's elbow, connecting the rest of the arm but able to achieve the articulation I wanted, but now the upper arm above the elbow is fragile with the removal of a 1x2 plate to make room for the 1x1 bracket, and the elbow clip is only hanging on by a stud. Not exactly the solution I was hoping to achieve. Below is what the leg design looks like on my figures too. Only showing this because I was curious if the hip design (just a brick with the legs connected to it attached to the bottom of the body) could be improved to look less weird, unless you think it's not weird and fine the way it is. Is it possible for anyone to help me find the best design for 1/12 scale action figure arms (a 6-stud long design for short figures and a 7-stud long design for average-heighted figures) that look realistic and less blocky than my designs, but are also fully articulated like on a traditional 1/12 scale fully posable action figure? Like these arms, (figure by Moc_Lobster on Rebrickable) but without the use of ugly gray ball joint pieces and preferably more realistic.
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I'm making a 10 studs wide Peterbilt Dump Truck for my Uncle and wanted the bonnet to open. However, I haven't been able to come up with a solution for how to make the hood open. This is where I want the bonnet when it is open... ...and here is where I want it to be when closed. Any building advice? Note that I want to be able to fit a detailed Cummins X15 engine under the hood so I don't want the bits and hinges that make the hood open to take up that much space. I can upload a Studio file of the entire truck's front end if you'd like. Thank you.
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Is it okay if I create a fresh new ReBrickable account from scratch, especially with a different email address?I tried to log in as a guest using my current email address but I got that message; 'An account already exists with that email, please login to proceed'. MOCPlans merged with ReBrickable back in 2017 and I can't remember what my username or password was now.
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School project survey - LEGO shelves - Please help me out!
AD_Bricks posted a topic in General LEGO Discussion
Hey there! I'm in the middle of working on a large project for school - one where we're almost completely free to do whatever we want for it. I've chosen to develop an all-encompassing and ideal design for animal-, UV- and dust-protected customisable and situation-adjustable LEGO collection shelves for optimal displaying of sets and models in an aesthetically pleasing and space-efficient way. I'd certainly appreciate it if you took the time to fill it out for me, as I'll need data from the target audience in order to make and refine the best possible design for everybody. https://forms.office.com/r/Lur7XaqnhE (If some of the wording doesn't seem right in this, please note that this is just a copy-pasted message that hasn't been context-adjusted.) (Side note: the project is merely to develop the design, and no shelves are actually being sold here.) -
Can't launch PartDesigner! Can anyone help!
BrickWild posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hi there, I tried to open PartDesigner but I get this error stating 'Failed to initialize PartEditor. Please report to studio@bricklink.com'. I also uninstalled it and then reinstalled but the same thing happens no matter what. Anyone else having that same problem? Have I done something wrong? -
Hey peeps, I got the urge to improve my 8-wide vehicle builds again and was wondering if maybe I've been doing things the hard way all this time. How do you start your Speed Champions MOCs? Have you developed your own go-to techniques? Usually I don't use pre-built bases, I usually start with the tire/wheel assembly attached to some Technic bricks, then figure out the wheelbase (distance between the front and rear axles) and build around that. For this build though, I wanted to try using the traditional Speed Champions base. For example, I'm working on an modern Acura NSX, I know the life-size Countach has a 96 inch wheel base, and the NSX has about 103 inches, so I added a stud of length to the LEGO Countach's wheelbase. Once I work on the body I'll be able to tell if I need to adjust it to keep things in correct proportions. We've all seen how the official designers work miracles with this base, so I'm hoping I stumble onto one of my own lol Edit: After some tinkering, I def had to extend the wheelbase another stud.
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I have never built an action figure with Lego before, but after tons of trial and error I'm happy how the legs came out so far. My only problem is I need to find a solution to keep the articulation the legs already have while adding the ability for the legs to rotate for even more dynamic poses. Photos from Studio are below, any advice would be very appreciated, I look forward to making many more figures in the future and I want the articulation to be accurate.
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i need some help with my ev3 classroom app
glowytheglowbug posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
i think i found a bug when i scroll flashes of random colors go around the screen stuff gets misaligned etc as I scroll through the thing it moves around https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzQLHH -
PoweredUP/Control+/Mindstorms Help
The_Tinkerer posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I have several questions regarding PoweredUP/Control+ and Mindstorms, and as the Mindstorms help topic went down with the ship, I think I'll start a new one. Do all PoweredUP and Control+ motors work with the Mindstorms hubs, and vice versa? Further, do people use the 51515/45678 Mindstorms hub instead of the PoweredUP/Control+ hubs for the size and additional outputs? I realize the Mindstorms hubs are more expensive but they're still comparable to a Buwizz with additional ports and programmability. -
Good afternoon all. Just a quick question; has anyone bought LEGO or similar from a site called StockX before? Are they reliable? I’m asking because they claim to be listing the Ninjago City Gardens at only $390 AUD (for non-Australians RRP is $499 here) with $27 extra for delivery - a good price, and not so good as to be suspicious. I’m not familiar with the site, though, and if it turns out to be a scam or similar this could turn into a very expensive mistake. It claims 165 people have bought Ninjago City Gardens on that site, but there’s no option for ratings or reviews there, which is also a red flag. Can anyone confirm whether it’s a legitimate site or a scam? Link is below. https://stockx.com/lego-ninjago-city-gardens-set-71741?country=AU¤cyCode=AUD
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Help needed with simple rc program for 51515
whitepen posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
So I was working on a simple rc program on my computer today with my new 51515 set and was trying to make it rc using the keyboard (up arrow=forward down arrow=reverse left arrow=left right arrow=right) But it is hard because there is no "when no key pressed" block to my knowledge. The robot I am using is THIS. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
Strange Power Functions Issue
jshuiting posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I bought a set from bricklink a while ago and tested out the electronics, only to find that they were acting really strange. I'll try to explain it is as clear as possible but i may mess up a bit. So the set came with 4 motors, one of each kind, XL, L, M and Servo, and these all work perfectly fine on my own battery packs and recievers. But now i hook them up to the included recievers, so XL on red, L on blue, but then only the XL motor works. Now i'll switch them arround, but yet again it's only the XL motor that works, but now on the red channel. The L motor does function correctly when hooked up to a different reciever or straight to a battery pack. Further testing shows the XL motor works on all my recievers, both red and blue channels. The L motor works on 2 out of 4 recievers but only on either red or blu side, not both sides on the same reciever The Servo motor worked on none. And the M motor worked on 3 out of 4, also on just one side per reciever, either red or blue. And again all the motors work directly on the battery pack, or when hooked up to known good reciever. So what's going on here? How does one motor work on a reciever, but another does not? Can i throw away the motors or are the recievers at fault here? It's really frustrating because i am in the midst of making a deal with the seller aswell, but i can't without knowing exactly what's broken. It's like the recievers are picky in which motors they want to actuate and which ones not, but how's that even possible? -
Hello People :) Currently i am building 10278. So far I really like this set and I am already preparing some bricklink list for some small upgrades. However I do have no idea for making some kind of curtains for the 1st floor, right here. Do you have any idea which pieces would do the job? I was thinking on something green, triangle plate with small tiles on it from both sides, but to be honest - I have no pieces to even test it and do not have the feeling on what could be a good idea. I will be glad for any ideas. Thank you in advance and have a great weekend :)
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multi link suspension help
platinum831 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
hello i am working on a moc with multi link suspension it will have pneumatic cylinders as the shocks to act as air ride the steering of the suspension is a little funky and I don't know where i should mount the cylinders too in order to get full suspension travel with them installed any help is greatly appreciated -
Hi everyone, I've finished trying to RC my 42043 and it seems that the PF L motor has issues providing sufficient power to drive the set? I obtained instructions from the creator of this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BpP_05uxKqs&t=22s&ab_channel=PawełWojnarowski) and also checked PPUNG DADDY's 42043 RC video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8easq7ueIo&ab_channel=PPUNGDADDY(뿡대디)-LEGOTECHNICRC), both used an L motor with no problems. Here's a video of the issue: https://youtu.be/J8P13WLPzN8. As you can see in the video, the motor loses power after driving for some time, eventually being unable to drive at all. The problem is worsened when I try to drive and steer at the same time, it's almost impossible to drive and turn. I have tried swapping the tyres around, changing batteries, trying a V1 and V2 IR receiver, switching positions of the motor and servo cables, and using a new L motor. But the problem still persists. Here's a photo of the L motor: Could it be because of excess friction introduced in the rear axles during construction? Because I noticed when I lifted up the rear axles, the motor spins the wheels at its standard rpm, BUT only 1 wheel on each axle spins, the other is stationary. Then when the wheels contact the floor, the motor suddenly seems to struggle with driving the thing. Hence I was thinking could it be that I built the differential too "tightly"? Appreciate any help from the technic experts in this forum, thanks in advance! -
Hi, my name is Josephine. I am creating Elevendale with all my Elves sets (I own them all) I would love to post images and you give me feedback and advice! Thanks. My family and I are moving house so my Lego is getting packed away . Over the next few weeks I am going to be buying pieces and sketching out designs for Elvendale. If you have any pieces that have helped you let me know what ones they are and I should be posting a base sketch in a few days
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Stud.io to blender (w/ part designer parts)
Mikopath posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hello! I've been playing around in stud.io and part designer making some custom figs, and I really want to get them into blender so I can animate them. Exporting to Ldraw and mechabricks doesn't work, the only things that stay are official parts. Any suggestions would be appreciated! -
How to create Off-road truck Cabin (front)
CrazyKreations posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi everyone, I have wanted to make an off-road truck for soo long and I just have enough time to build and design one. But I desperately need some expert opinions on how to design the front cabin for this vehicle. Does anyone have any ideas or designs you would like to share? ps I am looking for a design kinda like this: -
Recently upgraded to Windows 10 and re-installed LDD. After resolving an unrelated error having to do with my graphics card, I succeeded in booting up the program and opened one of my old build files to discover that an incredibly large number of bricks (mostly ones with moving parts) were refusing to load. Additionally, three of the brick categories in the sidebar were displaying with a bugged icon and a handful more, including hats, heads, and handheld props, were missing entirely. Finally, numerous bricks from these and other categories has been randomly redistributed to incorrect categories, as seen in the minifig parts catagory here. I haven't yet determined whether all of the parts from the missing categories are still present. What's going on, and how do I fix it? I've already tried all the solutions in this thread, in the belief that it was about the same issue I'm experiencing, but in retrospect it's very likely that it isn't. -
Two Questions: Would you consider this a proper building technique for MOC building? Would LEGO consider this a legal building technique? My Thoughts: I am personally hesitant to use this in a build as it feels wrong to have the small sprong sticking out of the bottom. Also because it's so thin there are strain concerns. However connectivity-wise, the stud hubs are the full .6 stud size and not chopped at the corners like almost all 2x2 circular plates' studs (4032, 2654, even 2655) which allows connecting at all four corners (as shown above). It's dimension make it unique. Excluding the middle sprong which runs .25 studs long with a width of .4, it provides a flat .1 stud thick platform with connecting studs on top. Also it has a .8 stud diameter with potential for positioning a connected piece .4 studs onto a flat surface. There is the argument that 3679 and 3680 are meant as one piece and shouldn't be used independently. In most sets today though they are packaged individually and connected later. I don't have an issue with using 3680 independently as it feels about as strong as a normal tile piece. However, 3679 just feels so flimsy when you hold it (though it is quite strong for it's thickness) plus it wasn't designed initially to function as an inverted connector. Conclusion: I'm still hesitant to, but because of the unique uses it proposes I'm leaning towards using 3679 in my building but mostly just for small bearing decoration uses. Since 3679 and 3680 are sold disconnected one could argue LEGO would be okay with the above use, but I would still guess they would say it is illegal. I'd be interested in hearing if anyone knows of a official LEGO set where either 3679 or 3680 are used independently without the other present.
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Aloha! Im new here. The end. Just kidding. If you're willing, I'm in need of some help. So I'm attempting to build a custom made Venator Star Destroyer using 2x4 wedge plates instead of 2x3 wedge plates. Ive built part of the frame, however, I noticed when the plates are aligned with the central beam, the frame and plates do not align perfectly on the sides. They are off by a few millimeters, probably 1° or less. Is there a method, pattern or dimensions that would create a more accurate alignment between the 2x4 wedge plate and the frame that I have? Or would it be wise to scrap this and go with 2x3 plates instead? Note: the plates will have a slope when its near completion. p.s. eurobricks wouldnt allow me to submit a photo bigger than 102.4 KB. so i cant show the frame that ive built. Link to show the bow of the frame.
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Sorry for the bad quality, theres a limit on the size of the images. This is part of a train I found looking through old lego, and I can't find what the set it is from called, I'd like to try and put it all back together like it was. Hopefully someone on here will recognise it and can help me!
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Hi, i'm in the process of making a new MOC. It will be a mini assault on Hoth MOC, BUT with a kinetic walking AT-AT as centre-piece. I have parts to somewhat test the walking mechanism, but I don't have enough parts to build the whole MOC, so I can't acquire good footage and test it properly. I'm asking for someone with quite an impressive lego parts collection to build my moc, test it and take some photos and most importantly a video of it. Together we can improve it and eventually put it up on Rebrickable. Any other suggestions and/or improvements are ofcourse welcome as well. I will add a render of the current state of the MOC, just so you have an idea of the finished MOC. Thanks.
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Hi Everyone Totally new member and first ever post so sorry if I haven't got the etiquette right. I've done quite a lot of big lego sets but I've never had a problem before and googling makes it seem like I'm the only person to have this problem and I don't know what to try next. I am step 200 of 752752 - where you attach the first big plate to the skeleton. No matter what I do it just falls apart (see picture) - not dramatically or anything but every time one of the blue, red or black cross pieces comes off, when i try to reattach it, another one comes away and so until i want to throw it against a wall! I don't think anything is bowed or anything - and in any case it doesn't happen to the same piece each time. I have compared it to the picture and I'm pretty sure it's accurate...I've even tried small piece of blutack to hold pieces in place (I really don't want to glue) and I just don't know what to do. Any advice please? Thanks in advance!
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[Studio] Technic Linear Actuators in Studio HELP - SOLVED
MajklSpajkl posted a topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Hello everyone, I was looking over the forum whether same question has been already posted somewhere, but couldn't find it, so I hope I am not doubling the topic: Q1: Is there a possibility to extend or shorten the technic linear actuators (92693c01, 61927c01 and 40918c01) in stud.io? Are there at least parts made of those in shortest and longest state and where can they be found? Q2: Is there a tool or a trick to align two i.e. liftarms, each with its own fixed pivot point to a position where those two cross (like two circles crossing each other) - is it possible to find that exact crossing in stud.io? I am putting most of my hopes into @efferman, @Zerobricks and @M_longer as I've seen quite a lot of great digital stuff coming from them. I would really appreciate any help from any other who might know something about it as well. I thank you in advance, Best regards, Miha
