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Found 5 results

  1. I have never built an action figure with Lego before, but after tons of trial and error I'm happy how the legs came out so far. My only problem is I need to find a solution to keep the articulation the legs already have while adding the ability for the legs to rotate for even more dynamic poses. Photos from Studio are below, any advice would be very appreciated, I look forward to making many more figures in the future and I want the articulation to be accurate.
  2. I am trying to figure out whether there's an easy way for me transfer motion between these two axles (yellow) that are at 120 degrees to one another (anchored in place relative to each other by the pieces in red). I have both terrible intuition and limited understanding when it comes to stuff like universal joints; can anyone tell me whether this setup of universal joints (with a horizontal bar formed by two of the yokes of the universal joints in the middle in blue) would reasonably work to transfer rotation so that if one of the axles was spun clockwise, the other would spin counterclockwise?
  3. Hi guys, i'm here because i found an issue in some pieces present in the lego digital designer palette. Some pieces have non uniform measures and this imply that these pieces cannot be correctly mounted upside-down. Note that in the real pieces these problems don't occour. In the first image the distance between green and red pieces should have been of 1/6 of lego units, that corresponds to the distance indicated by the grey piece. But, as you can see, this distance is slightly less and this doesn't allow to create a perfect match between upper and lower pieces. In the second image the height of the red and green pieces should be the same but in LLD they differ slightly, as you can see from the small step between the upper surfaces of both red and green pieces. I don't know why LDD presents this error, but it affects a lot the techniques we can use while creating a model. If someone can help me find a solution i would be so thankful. Luca
  4. In the 42056 Porsche the shifting mechanism (or shift train as I like to refer to it) relies on correctly aligned axles. Each of the axles needs to have a close-to-perfect 45 degree or 90 degree orientation. However, despite many imrpovements I never got the paddle shifter unit to operate correctly. I rebuilt it many times and there was always one paddle that had problems. It even motivated me to build my own paddle shifter unit. Today I found out what the problem was (I had the CV-joint axle at the right of the first image sitting in my Porsche between the shifter unit and the gearbox): This mis-aligned CV-joint axle caused the vertical axle at the center of the shifter unit to misalign significantly. Now I cannot recall whether I ever swapped the CV-joint axles that came with the set with ones I already had. I don't think I did, but I'm not sure. So my question is: Has anyone seen this kind of mis-aligned CV-joint axle before? Would it be a misprint or a fake?
  5. Hi all! I have recently bought a Dino-Attack T-rex for an animation i'm planning on doing in the near future. It's such a beautiful and underrated model that i really want to do it justice onscreen. However, my issue with the model is the articulation; with the legs, arms and head all being on exo-force style ratchet joints. (NOT my image. Belongs to -R8- on Flickr. For demonstration purposes only) Would anyone know a way to mod the creature so that the legs retain their strength but enable smoother motion? I'm considering sanding down the ratchets to a point where there is still friction but no places for the leg to 'snap' into. My only worry with this is that the friction will be lost and the legs will become loose. Any suggestions? They would be much appreciated! Many thanks :)