The_Tinkerer

I have several questions regarding PoweredUP/Control+ and Mindstorms, and as the Mindstorms help topic went down with the ship, I think I'll start a new one. Do all PoweredUP and Control+ motors work with the Mindstorms hubs, and vice versa? Further, do people use the 51515/45678 Mindstorms hub instead of the PoweredUP/Control+ hubs for the size and additional outputs? I realize the Mindstorms hubs are more expensive but they're still comparable to a Buwizz with additional ports and programmability.

Here's a thought, what if we create a Q&A collection topic to pin in place of the "Generic Building Help Topic", to have a "Technic Help Topic, Mindstorms Help Topic, Modeling Help Topic and Generic Building Help Topic all in one place. It'd take up the same amount of room in the Pinned section, but have specific sections for each Not-Subforum. I myself have some questions about the Mindstorms Hub and the Powered-Up Hub.

I converted the Jeep to traditional IR in order to make a small video. Sorry for the low quality, I have no better camera.

Two L motors in the middle/back of the chassis, a buwizz above those(attached to the body), and a servo mounted on the front axle. I think dual L motors with a buwizz are the best power to weight without using buggy motors. All the snow around here is melting, so I don't have anywhere outside to test it for a little while, though I will try to take a video indoors.

I know others have already done this, but I rebuilt the Jeep with all wheel drive(no differentials) and better suspension. I use a Buwizz for power, though there is plenty of room for IR or a Sbrick or two. I rebuilt the roof rack and bumper, and added a snorkel. It runs well, though it is too heavy to drive on the snow that surrounds my area right now. Sadly I don't have the means to make a video, my phone can barely run the Buwizz app, let alone that and take video.

The axle was originally meant to be steered. The axle can be made solid with cross-axles passing through the center, but I used the cv joint because I could. I figured out how to properly brace the axle and still leave enough room to steer it. This is closest to the original version I built around two years ago.

Upon further testing, the axle is not as sturdy as I had previously thought. I last built it around two years ago, and forgot that all the weight is held by those four 3l pins, meaning the axle is more 'flexible.' I think adding a 11l beam across the bottom between the two sets of L-beams should stiffen it up some. Apparently the track width is the same as 42070...

I know, but the 3l pin position negates the entire problem. Thanks, though.

If you place the four 3l pins in pointing away from(so the stop is closer to) the drive gear on one side, and then push in the axle to the motor, the assembly becomes like the problems here: The axle 4l through the 20-tooth gear keeps the 3l pins from being removed, thus permanently fixing the structure. I know be cause I did it, and needed a knife to remove the axle. These two pictures show where the problem is. The two 3l pins(sticking out is the top picture) are facing the wrong way.

Here's an improved version BEFORE ANYONE BUILDS THIS: If assembled incorrectly, the parts will be very hard to disassemble, the blue 3l pins must be facing a certain way to disassemble the structure. I threw on a panhard-type suspension setup, the shocks keep the axle from twisting.

The tan gears are braced by the 5l beams, the second picture is a "cut away"

The motor yields before any damage to any parts.

Here's a simple, but very sturdy solid axle. It can be powered by one or two L motors, but steering is a challenge(though possible). I have tested it, and it's almost indestructible.

@Mechbuilds You may want to specify that nobody has tried these ideas before, so no more "duplicates" show up. My thoughts... People have already done the normal 4x4, but not the 10x10. I've tried, but cannot find a good articulation joint with my parts available.

Oops. Clearly my research was not thorough enough.