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Found 7 results

  1. Hi community, The BrickTracks R104 switches are already a while available on the market and the FX switches will follow soon. I ordered some FX switches, (I have only 9V track) and was wondering if someone already automated his switches using any kind of automation, using servos or anything else. I am completely aware that the driving mechanism of the BrickTracks switches are different than the FX switches (Rotate versus slide motion), so any idea is welcome. My switches will be placed on MILS modules, so there is some space to use a servo, just not knowing how to do so. The experience I have with the servo's on my level crossing controlled by an Arduino UNO are a bit strange. When the controller gets initialized, the servo's are 'flying' full in one direction (using the servo library), and If not proper controlled I guess that the driving mechanism of the switch will be destroyed if this happen. Knowing this behaviour, I guess also that it is recommended to set the switches in a kind of 'start' position before the servos are initialized, this should be executed before the end of an event. Anyone out there who have more experience with servo's and their behaviour who are willing to share it here? The do's and dont's, the pitfalls, ... Thanks in advance. Ludo
  2. Hello All, So I've finally got my act together and started building my layout however due to space the Lego 12v points are my only option as the 9V/PF switches take to much room. However an electronic pair will set you back around £90-£110 with all the switch boxes etc. So my challenge was can I do it cheaper? The answer was Yes. My first design (first image) was to use the Lego servo motor as it turns 90 degrees however these are around £20, then you'd need a Sbrick or another way to control it. It works but it looks bulky. So as I use Ncontrol from 4D Brix, I like the interface, click options and Tom is really helpful. So after a quick chat he wrote some code for me to limit the movement to 90 degrees and I purchased a Monorail Switch. It is very simple, looks neat and above all works. You have to purchase the quad motor control module but the beauty is that this will do four switches. So if you have 4 switches you save £30 on the second pair. So your first pair will cost you £80 but the next pair will only cost £50. This is the cost Lego 12 Volt Points Pair @ £100 My Second Design @ £80 Lego 12volt points not motor > £20 2x 4D Brix Motors > £25 4x 1 Meter Cables > £5 4D Brix Quad Control > £30 The only downside is you lose the turning symbol but I can see that in the software so it doesn't bother me. Andy
  3. Anonknee Muss

    V.I.P. Events and More...

    Hi All! My apologies if this new topic is placed incorrectly however I'm not sure where else it could possibly belong? I am aware there are VIP events such as VIP early release and double/triple points. When is the triple points weekend event? Is it yearly? Also what's your opinions on VIP early release?
  4. frog4gators

    Double VIP points

    Are double VIP points a planned thing or random? When is the next (probable) one?
  5. TOPIC LOCKED Use the second quarter registration here. First Quarter Free Build Registration Sept 1st 2013 to March 1st, 2014 (Book II, Quarter 1) What is this thread? This is the thread where YOU register your free build if you wish it to be scored for your guild. Why are you doing this to us? Despite Rogueang’s wonderful MOC index, the guilds project has become quite large. The core leaders feel that we need a self-indexing mechanism that will allow us to grade free builds more efficiently. This is what we have come up with. What do I need to do? Just simply write the following information In a NEW post: Name of Moc with link to the thread | Name of Builder | Guild you belong to IE: Obsidian Spike |ZCerberus | Nocturnus Do not write anything else. What counts as a “Free Build?” Great question! Any GOH build that was not entered in one of the official main challenges or for any official mini-challenge that issued a physical prize. All free builds must have their own thread, and there must be a link to that thread provided here. Do not comment on builds in this thread, please do that on the MOC’s own thread. Can I just post in my guild thread and leave it at that? Whereas you are welcome to do so, if the build does not make it into the index , it will not be scored. Can I put up an entry for another guild member's build? If that builder has disappeared and we are getting near the deadline, this would be allowed.
  6. Hey! I just worked up my first Lego layout with Blue Brick, and I was hoping to get some comments and suggestions from some of you. I have a little free time on my hands here presently while we move back to the U.S., so I'm trying to use the time constructively. I'm not real sure of the exact dimensions of the space we'll have, but this layout should more-or-less fit into a medium-sized home's basement, don't you think? What do you think of the size of the layout, does it look too big or small? I think it strikes a good balance between being a decent-sized layout that's big enough to hold what I've got (plus a little room for expansion) without being grounds for divorce. Our son is only three, so I've tried to keep it as accessible as possible from all angles. I'm thinking of making the tables modular, so I can always add in another table in the future when/if we run out of room with this design. I mostly used the 3" x 3" tables in Blue Brick (and added on 1" x 3" tables for the harbor which was something of an afterthought). The table size isn't set into stone. One of my main questions is about the two crossovers between the two main lines. Is there a prettier way to do it? Do I need to get my hacksaw out and cut the switches they presently sell? I'm using PF track so I won't be using the 9V switch tracks with the shorter diverging track, unfortunately. Also, I won't be spending the crazy money that 7996 (Train Rail Crossing) is getting. It's a pity that Lego doesn't sell 7996 any longer as it's a very elegant solution, and I'm also more than a little bummed about the way they package the road baseplates. I won't be purchasing them unfortunately. Guess I'll have to find the time to build my own. Ok, well, thanks in advance for your input. Feel free to post graphics of your layout in this thread as I'd love to see what others have come up with. Oh, for the record; this is the parts list: 4x Right Switches 9x Left Switches 192x Straight Track 43x Curve Track 60x 48x48 Grey Baseplates 13x 32x32 Blue Baseplates and a handful of Flex-track Joe
  7. Andromeda

    TUTORIAL Repairing 12v points.

    Anyone been setting up a track and found that they had two left feet? I did the other day, and managed to break my 30 year old points! Lots of swearing ensued, but not all is lost... The candidates for this topic are my very first set of points(left), and a set that I aquired from 3bay: In addition to the break, the left set have a poor pass through electrical connection. First off we need to flip the points over and locate the six plastic rivets. For half of them I just cropped the top off with a pair of wire cutters, The remaining rivets were 'teased' back into a pillar shape using the wire cutters and a pair of pliers - small electrical ones! On the first picture above, there is what looks like a 7th rivet that perhaps was made too short, larger circled item. It has been chemically welded. Once the first six are free, slip a small screw driver in between where the 7th joins, and gently prise it open. You should hear a snap! Hear are some pictures of what you get. For the feint hearted, and those of you who donot have electrical connection issues, the next part can be skipped. All of the ends of my conductor rails had become unwelded from the end braces. If you are feint hearted and do have electrical connection issues, the following two pics try and show you where the contacts are. Because my points were so old and abused, I continued to prise the central join with a screwdriver like soldering tool. The point is composite, and has been chemically welded during manufacture. Here you can see the weld breaking. How did this get here? Well now it is, I might as well explain that the melted plastic between the rails was caused by a very bored and destructive 8 year old, exploding button cells! Here it is, looks remarkably like the 4.5V version! Clever ogeL using the same parts! These are the broken welds that I mentioned earlier. You can see the welded middle point. The weld is strong enough to hold while the plastic tears I checked the continuity and resistance of the conductor rails. One bad connection racked up 15 ohms, whilst most were less than 1 or 2ohms in the picture pairs 1 and 2 are visible without these last few steps, pair 3 can just be accessed with a screwdriver, without total disassembly. My trouble was mainly with pair 2, as you can see in the pic they have a little arcing evidence. A small pair of pliers were used to press each metal tab, whilst being pushed/supported from the rail side. Now to weld the broken base plate. You will need some Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), a chemical proof crucible/dish and stirrer/applicator, and maybe some broken donor ogeL element of the same colour. I chose to dissolve a very small amount of plastic shavings. Because the break was very clean, I did not really need to additional material. Add a few drops of MEK and mix with your shavings to your desired consitancy, here it is weak and thin. Apply sparingly but evenly to the edge of the element to be welded, wait a few seconds then press together. Sometimes applying to both edges. It's best use a flat surface to work on, one prepared with non stick properties, like a strip of kapton tape! In this example I trimmed the excess too soon, the excess smeared a little. Once it is bonded sufficiently to handle, place on a radiator or somewhere warm to set fully. Now we are ready to reassemble the points. Get your welding kit together and the parts lined up. We don't need any extra plastic material this time, just a few drops of pure MEK in the crucible. First off we're going to weld the rails in place. Apply MEK as shown and press together, leaving to dry in a warm place again. Next assemble the base plate and slider. Remember that half rivet that we snapped earlier? Put a spot of MEK on it before lowering the rails onto the base. Try not to push it fully together yet. Flip the whole unit over and if you have snipped the rivets, place a spot of MEK in each hole, as you've not pushed it fully together right? If you 'teased' the rivets straight, then press together and put a spot of MEK on each, using the end of the pliers press and work the rivet flat. For my snipped rivets, I kept the heads and welded them ontop. The red circles show the snipped rivets, blue the formed ones. Both methods work. That's it, you've just saved yourself a small fortune! I'll come back and post about the the RH points later...