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Showing results for tags 'Servo'.
Found 35 results
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Please kindly watch this video: https://youtu.be/yVvvIO7Jk0Y
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Dear folks, Don't know if this forum is in need of 'yet another AWD front steering', but decided to post it anyway since it may have some interesting features to share: - Compact 5 stud high modular design - Strong, double suspension per arm - Embedded cross block, to prevent bending axles - Adjustable steering arms to enable toe-in and toe-out (and as a side effect, prevents damage when crashing) - Ready for (2.4 GHz RC) servo steering ;) I needed a flat front module to fit my chassis, but didn't want to use the 'old' 3 stud high Wheel Hub (50301). It simply has too much friction in the turns and breaks too easily. Furthermore I wanted to use the universal joint (61903) in stead of the cardan cup (92906). Since I'm putting significant torque on these joints, and it turns out the universal joint is much stronger. However, this does requires the wheel arms to pivot 1 stud wider than using the standard config. Using the 5 stud high 11949 front wheel bearing and bound to a maximum height, I needed a way to fit suspension within this height. Very happy with the result. Anyway, have a look if you're interested. Happy to hear if anything can be improved. https://www.flickr.com/photos/153697698@N03/sets/72157695812709340
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This topic is for pneumatic tips and tricks, how to use pneumatics and mocs including pneumatics or just general things about pneumatics. Ps mods if you feel this topic is not required feel free to remove. I just made this seeing there was no general discussion on pneumatics.
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Hey guys! It's been a little while since the last build, but I've got a new model. This time it's a class 1 offroad racing buggy like the one in the DIRT2 video game. It has servo steering and two RC motors powering it. Suspension on the front is double wishbone, and rear is trailing arm. My main goal was to make it fast, sturdy, and look good, and I feel like I got a pretty good balance. The only drawbacks are that the steering isn't very precise, and the IR receivers don't get as much reception as I would like outside in the sun. Still, it was a lot of fun to film, hope you guys like the video. Enjoy!
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Strandbeest is designed by Theodorus Gerardus Jozef who is a great Dutch artist. Today I make my droid with Strandbeest's legs. Each leg in this contraption has 11 movable rods and 2 fixed rods which form 8 joints. Camellia Servo Strandbeest droid model is controlled by CAPPUCCINO controller with ARM technology. Each body part of this droid has an individual LEGO motor to drive its moving speed, distance, time and direction. As 8 LEGO motors are used, droid's head, body, left leg, right leg, left arm, right arm, left hand and right hand are able to be controlled cooperatively! Left and right by two motors, each has 2 front and 2 rear legs. Upper body Left arm Right arm Left hand Right hand Head and eyes, One eye is a camera to record its view. Waist Back 40th LEGO Technic nameplate 1977-2007 Just make you own droid at home. Welcome to Camellia Café
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Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home. http://www.camellia.xin/models/servojeep.html
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Hi guys, can I damage PF Servo motor if I will force to turn it only 45° as you can see it on image bellow? Green axle will be connected to servo that will be fixed to red part:
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are you waiting for a new servo? are you tired of spending 25-30 dollars on a servo? problem solved. with a few common parts and a rubber band save yourself the extra money and get a m motor and these parts. note: i was inspired by @LXF's servo attachment. full instructions here. enjoy the servo!!!!!
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Another completed MOC hailing from Thirdwiggville. Based on the old and ugly (can I say that?) U90, which sees little love in these parts. Much more at thirdwigg.com. Features: 4x4 PF XL drive PF Servo steering Portal Axles Live axle suspension Removable Bed and Cab Three way tipper bed Fischertechnic tires Full Flickr gallery here. Enjoy.
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Hello everyone, This is my new MOC, it is my third creation using non-Lego parts. Without the body was the fastest out of the three going over 20mph-32kph but with the body it only went 17.4mph-27.9kph which was included in the video. This project was started when I bought the 8880 style hubs from Efferman on shapeways and evolved to also use the non-Lego electronics. I also used the high torque differential, 550 motor mount, and the CV joints for the 8880 type joints, designed by Efferman. This was also my first creation to use my custom designed part, the 5x7 frame for bearings IMG_1130 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I went with a lime and black color scheme on this one to give it a pop of color compared to my other, more bland creations that are white and black. IMG_1131 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I worked a lot on the front to make it look menacing like most real supercars often do. IMG_1132 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr With the custom hubs I was able to make the gaps around the wheel very small but still have it where it does not bind. IMG_1134 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I covered up the bottom to stop dirt and other debris from getting inside the gears and motor that would cause the parts to wear faster and also shorten the life of the motor. IMG_1150 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Here is a picture with the tape and body removed. I mounted the motor and other electronics as low as possible to keep the SOG low for better handling. The gearing is 9:1, there is a 12T gear mounted to the motor and a 36T going into my 5x7 frame with bearings, along with lithium grease, that made the drive chain have almost no friction. With such low friction the motor almost never got hot and no drive parts were damaged even after me driving it on a bumpy road and some crashes. IMG_1149 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The hubs seem to have blended into the background in this picture but here you can see the rear assembly, I made this creation modular where if you remove the two black beams connected to the two dogbone pieces on each side the entire rear axle could be taken for maintenance like regreasng if any was needed. IMG_1148 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1146 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front axle was nothing special, just two wishbones with different lengths and so on.... The performance was good but it did tend to pull left or right dew to the slack in Lego parts, but there is nothing you can do about that... Finally the video
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I upgraded my 42039 with rc functions by using a sbrick. Since 2 days the servo inside has wierd behaviour. When I steer to the left it gets stuck in the position. It should recenter after releasing the steering but it doesn't. It happens mostly under loaded, when the car is standing or driving on the ground. Sometimes even with unloaded suspension it happens. Steering to the right works like a charm. Is there a way to fix it or should I call Lego for assistance?
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Truck T12 MkII Mack Granite with instructions
2LegoOrNot2Lego... posted a topic in LEGO Scale Modeling
In the last couple of months I have, amongst other projects, been working on the rerelease of Truck T12. Because the detachable gooseneck lowboy "Trailer Tr4 MkII" can be combined with my previously released trucks and with Technic set 8258 it is why I released it first. Instructions for this lowboy have been asked so many times that I thought it would make sense to start with it. Normally I start with a truck followed by a trailer to join it. Model "Truck T12 MkII" and is build after the Mack Granite with LEGO® in scale 1:17,5 and motorized using LEGO® Power Functions. It is a model of a Mack Granite 6x4 day cab truck. Both the looks and specifications are adjusted to match lowboy ”Trailer Tr4 MkII” and the optional jeep and booster ”Trailer Tr4 MkII Add1”. This rather heavy lowboy trailer combination, which might include a load, requires some extra power.Even though this truck is designed to go with ”Trailer Tr4 MkII” plus ”Trailer Tr4 MkII Add1” lowboy combination in the first place, it doesn’t necessarily mean it can't be used with other available trailers as well. If you prefer to give it a flat bed or log trailer, you are free to do so! If a different trailer is used it might be useful to give this truck's drivetrain a various gear setup. For this a separate PDF file is available that tells you what gear reductions to use with which trailer. It also shows you how to do so. Evidently the torque will be reduced, but with lighter weight trailers that is no problem at all. This Mack Granite model is powered by a Mack MP8 engine which is visible with the hood opened. This power source is an inline 6 cylinder engine with a displacement of 13.0 L. The horsepower range is from 425 up to 505 HP and this engine has a torque range from 1570 to 1760. You could build it yourself, building instructions and inventory/parts list are available. You will be very excited from the moment you start the build of "Truck T12 MkII" till you finish it with about 360 different parts totaling 1900 pieces. -
Hello Everybody! My latest creation of which I am very keen! Loved to build it, including the design, color scheme and it's functions/features. Initially build for this amazing book "The Art of LEGO Scale Modeling" in which is fully "shiny". Yes, a lot of chrome parts are used to make it even more impressive. For a guy who lives in the Netherlands for whole of his live it took quite a while to get started with a "Euro" truck Well, here it is! Well, I am curious what it is that you think of this MOC, please share it... Would you be interested to build it yourself? Well that's possible. I have building instructions and inventory/parts list are available . Early in the building process you will see what it is that you are building. You will be very excited from the moment you start the build of "Truck T13" till you finish it with about 420 different parts totaling 2790 pieces. The truck features: solid axle suspension on all axles of which the rear axle uses tandem bogie suspension, PF powered driving with power transmitted independently to both rear axles, Ackerman geometry on steering axle, Servo powered steering, fully functional fifth wheel, fifth wheel slider, detailed engine bay, modeled Scania V8 engine, detailed cabin interior and 3 light units. Scale: 1:17,5 Length: 444 mm Weight: 2,21kg Parts: 2790 The Scania 3 series is the third generation truck model range introduced by Scania, which we all know is Swedish truck manufacturer. Obviously it is the successor of the 2 series and was introduced back in 1987. With the release of the 4 series in 1997 production of the 3 series stopped after being produced for roughly a decade. Given the fact it has a hood or bonnet, so it is not a COE (cab over engine) truck, it is referred to as a torpedo. For this the manufacturer gave it a prefix as well, a T. At that time the 3 series T came in a range of different engine sizes and horsepower. Starting with a 9.0 liter engine with 230 horsepower all the way up to a massive 14 liter V8 engine with 500 horsepower. Being available with either a 9, 11, or 14 liter engine truck models were denoted 93, 113, or 143. To indicate the rating of the frame and suspension stiffness a letter suffix is used. Rated with an M indicates this model has a „medium” frame and suspension setup. Other suffices used by Scania are H for „heavy” and E for „extra-heavy”.
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Hi Guys, some time ago, I built this truck http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=120767 and I was thinking, how it will looks if I will make something similiar, but smaller? And this is the result. I'm happy how it turns out. It's fun to drive and i could finally use 43.2mm tires again. Some specs: Parts count: 790 Dimensions (W/H/L): 13/19/38 studs 8x4 Driving: 1 Medium motor 8x4 Steering: 1 Servo motor. Each axle with different angle 2 Rear axles has "pendular" suspensions Openable doors Interior So, what do you think? Short Video:
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Hey everyone, Here it is, after about half a year of on and off work, my new MOC, a working model of a MAN TGS Dakar Truck. A video showing all the functions: The chassis is entirely LEGO, and has: -Servo steering -4x4 transmission -2x buggy motor drive -live axles on front and back -opening doors -working lights It also has custom stickers, as well as a box for the rear, made of styrofoam board, acrylic stickers, glue, plastic sheets, and regular stickers, which took a while to perfect, but turned out pretty well in the end. Hope you guys like it!
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Hi guys, just finished my latest build after almost year long break from lego. It,s 8x4x4 truck inspired by Mercedes Actros. I know, another truck... But I ordered thouse weels and they seems to be great for trucks in medium scale. Features: 4x2 Drive by L motor 4x2 Steering by servo motor with different angle (great turning radius) Manual 2 speed gearbox Openable doors Liftable cabin I would like to build more trucks in this scale! Any suggestions, what to build? I was thiking cherry picker or dumper for start? I will propably also create LDD model if anyone interested? PS: Sorry for photo quality...
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RCBRICKS Lego compatible servo motors, reviewed by Sariel
Saberwing40k posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
Today, I found a video from our good friend Sariel about a new, Lego compatible motor system called RCBRICKS, from a startup of the same name. These motors look quite unlike PF motors, and seem to be based off of high torque hobby servo motors, and as such are quite capable. Watch the video for more information. (It's in Polish, but the subtitles are just fine, and in English.) Here are the Pros and Cons, as far as I can see: Pro: Lots of power Highly responsive Great range Should be relatively inexpensive. Compatible with any kind of RC gear. Con: Not compatible with Lego PF system in any way. RC receivers and transmitters are expensive. Questionable battery choice. Motors are entirely new shapes, and not readily compatible with the system, meaning that they are not drop in replacements Unproven startup. Receivers and batteries are not Lego compatible. I don't know, they sound okay, but the thing is, what most people have problems with is either the power supply, or receivers of the Lego PF system, and not the motors. While I think it is a valiant attempt to rectify the Lego systems short range, I don't think they are going about it the right way. I am also kind of dubious about the idea of using a USB batter pack for this, as it is not really Lego compatible, and has to be awkwardly rubber banded in place. It would be preferable if there were a way to go from RC standard to LPF standard, as having all new motors might alienate people who just want a drop in PF receiver replacement, like SBrick. What do you guys think? -
Hello! I am new. (And I need some help, please!)
sir_launcelot posted a topic in Hello! My name is...
How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98222) for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks! -
[MOC] The fastest Lego Technic lipo racer | At the very limit
896gerard posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
I have long awaited the moment that two race buggy motors would be in my reach, as they are quite expensive now... and I also bought the Lego Technic lipo battery two years ago. The perfect recipe for a small lightweight racer! Read the rest of the story at: http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/424516. For now, there's just these two pictures and two videos. To post the photos on Eurobricks, I had to serieusly resize them. If you want to see the better quality images, just click this link: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=561899. All photos can also be found on the MocPage link, and can also be hosted from MocPages. This is because brickshelf has sometimes a rather long posting time. Please do not use THESE EXACT photos on another website, they are really at 10% of their real quality because Eurobricks requests it. The brickshelf photos are really better! -
US Truck T2 MkII with instructions (US Truck T2 revised)
2LegoOrNot2Lego... posted a topic in LEGO Technic and Model Team
It has been a while since I have been on this forum. To be honest forums are not really my thing, I loose track... Never the less do I like to share my latest creation. It is an older model completely revised. Because I really felt doing so, but also to create instructions. So I did, please have fun reading this. Share you thoughts on it and when you feel like doing so please build it yourself some day!!! Cheers, Ingmar Spijkhoven To start with a little history on how this model was designed and developed in the first place and how US Truck T2 evolved into US Truck T2 MkII. Back in 2008 I started building US Truck T2 after I had finally managed to build a very sufficient and realistic suspension system. From the very beginning of building MOCs I always tried to implement as many realistic features as possible. For example both version I and II of US Truck T2 features full solid axle suspension, Ackerman steering, realistic and working fifth wheel, openable hood, PF drive, PF steering and PF lights. With the chassis still evolving, but good enough to start building the model itself a couple of decisions had to be made: A) First of all I choose not to build a specific brand or type of truck. What I knew is that it had to be a typical US style truck. Because of my love for work trucks brochures available at Kenworth.com became my main inspiration source. B) What scale to build in is another obvious quest when building models in general and also for building LEGO® models. Since most work trucks have a little bigger and heavier wheels my favorite scale for building models became scale of 1:17,5 because this suites me best. C) I had to figure out what color scheme would work best for model US Truck T2. Why exactly I can't recall but the chassis ended up Red and I still love it. With the color of the chassis pointed to Red I could move on to the colors of the body work. D) Searching the Internet for inspiration on this build I noticed that Red and White is a nice color combination. Trying a couple of colors to combine with this evolving color scheme I ended up with Blue. Since not all parts I needed were available in Blue back then I came up with the use of Dark Blue. Because of so many improvements I thought it would be so nice to rebuild this creation. Rebuilding this MOC made me decide to name this updated version US Truck T2 MkII (it is based on US Truck T2, but revised in so many ways). Thinking about the rebuild, not yet started, made me realize that it would also be amazing to make building instructions available for it as well! The process of creating instructions basically forced me to completely revise and rebuild it. So in the looks it is not even changed that much but to get the build going with the instructions as guideline I had to change so many things. Because of this process this new version is way much better and therefore very nice to build. The finished build of US Truck T2 back in March 2009 was basically a result of all the effort I had put in this realistic suspension system. For this suspension to work I did a lot of research, trial and error and engineering. One major problem I noticed was the quite large size of Technic® Shock Absorber 6.5L. There was no way I could jam six of these into a chassis that is only four studs wide together everything else that should be in there. Quite rapidly I came up with the idea of using Rubber Belts instead. So I came up with a lever constructions. Normally a spring is pushed in and comes back, but a rubber belt is stretched and comes back. In the build of US Truck T2 MkII I replaced the hard to get Sand Blue colored parts by Dark Blue ones. Back in 2009 part 30357 Plate Round Corner 3 x 3 wasn't available in either Blue or Dark Blue. These colors I did prefer back then with the build of US Truck T2. This forced me to use this part in the less common color Sand Blue. Even though this was a switch that worked out very well I prefer not to use this color. Mainly because parts in this color are hard to get. So now that these parts are available I had the chance to give US Truck T2 MkII the initial color scheme I came up with for the first build. A part that I have been looking out to for so many many years is finally available. The LEGO® Power Functions® Servo enables the opportunity to create a much more realistic steering system for US Truck T2 MkII. Aligned with the trucks chassis the Servo is sitting inside of the cabin right behind the modeled engine. Since the movement of the Servo needs to be converted 90 degrees a challenge occurred. Luckily we still have this older LEGO® part 4143 Technic Gear 14 Tooth Bevel. Because the Servo requires less space US Truck T2 MkII is equipped with a modeled engine. Because of some parts I needed to build this engine that are only available in Light Bluish Gray this became the engines color. Searching the web for inspiration I noticed Detroit Diesel has some very nice power sources available. Doing some research made me choose to build the DD15. Modeling this engine was very satisfying. A small object to build but to give a realistic look still a lot of parts are used to build it. What is the use of a modeled engine if it is invisible. Like with the early version this revised model has an openable hood. For inspiration I used the Kenworth C500 PDF brochure. One picture shows a truck with a opened hood and shows really nice how a part of the fenders is attached to the cabin. So this part of the fenders stays in place when the bonnet is opened, I really love this concept. One other major improvement is the battery box accessibility as well as the location of the on/off switch. To make this achievable for as many builders as possible I sticked to the battery box with 6x AA batteries. With the original US Truck T2 to replace the batteries the entire roof had to be removed together with the sleepers back side. For the on/off switch I installed a complex mechanism that needed small doors to operate the switch. As complex as it sounds it really was and I was never happy with this solution. The roof of US Truck T2 MkII now has a hatch to access the battery box and the on/off switch. Besides decorative purposes these bars are supposed to support the roof, which they didn't! Thanks to digitalizing my model with BrickSmith I noticed/discovered a much better solution. Besides that it looks less fragile this new window frame really became supportive. When TLC released LEGO® Power Functions® IR Speed Remote Control Unit item number 64227 I was really excited about it. First build also used a XL Motor to drive but with the use of Power Functions Remote Control Unit item #58122c01 one has to be very careful. US Truck T2 MkII has less gear reduction and is therefore quite a bid faster then its predecessor. To give you an idea how the instructions look like here is a preview. Creating these instructions both quick progress on your build as well as each step being easy to understand the same time were very important. Early in the building process you will see what is happening, what it is that you are building. You will be very excited from the moment you start this build till you finish the build of US Truck T2 MkII with a total number of parts of about 1800 pieces. To achieve this a lot of floating items are used, with added arrows to show where these items are suppose to be. Together with a lot of so called call outs (the smaller windows within a step that shows the assembling of a smaller sub part of the build) together with multi part steps the build will be in a flow. Check mocplans for the instructions and rebrickable for the parts list! -
I have been having this problem with my servo for a year now , I was able to fix it a few times, but I cant get a replacement from Lego customer service because this IS my replacement. Any Ideas on how to fix it? Thanks!
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Hi everyone I am happy to present my first "big" MOC: A modular Shell gas station. When I got hold of a MISB set 1256 with its huge sticker sheet, I got started. The gas station is 32 x 48 studs big and a corner modular. There is a double gas pump, a vacuum cleaner, a tire inflator, a public phone and a city map. The shop sells everything from motor oil and fire extinguishers to newspapers and flowers. It has also a large choice of beverages and food - you can even get a burger (well, microwaved only, but still)! The neighboring 16 x 32 recycling station module adds the battery for the power functions lights in the roof and the shop. I also built a Scania tanker truck and a small Mini Cooper to go with the station. Comments & suggestions welcome, thanks for looking!
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Ok, after figuring out some video problems I am going to post about my final satisfaction out of my Four chassis builds. While V4 may be slower (slower output), It is extremely robust, simple and has the best handling out of the Four . It is powered by four Buggy motors and steering uses the servo motor. Electronics-wise it uses the same hobby-grade motor controller, receiver and transmitter that I have mentioned before and my custom battery. These are the only non lego parts Performance is great, and a couple days ago during some play I managed to barrel-roll it, only knocking the project box containing the electronics a bit loose For now I only have the video to show, but I will upload pictures soon
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I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy!
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I put together a super-fast mini rc chassis. It has buggy motor geared up 20:16 for drive, and servo for steering. Lipo and v2 receiver provide power. It goes a measured 17.5 KPH (11 mph). So I was wondering if anyone built anything faster. Video:
