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Found 11 results

  1. Model of a modified JCB Fastrac. Features drive, steering with working steering wheel, 6-cylinder engine, opening hood, and custom stickers. Functions/features: Drive Steering Working steering wheel 6-cylinder engine Opening hood Instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-118212/JLiu15/jcb-fastrac-two/#details After publishing instructions for two of my MOCs, I realized that both of them would cost a lot to build if you didn't have all the pieces. My Azure Racer XL, while simple with just over 600 pieces, had the expensive and hard-to-find RC motors. My large New Flyer XD60 Articulated Bus model mostly used currently available pieces, but 5000 pieces is still a lot. Furthermore, both models used third-party electronics: the Azure Racer XL used BuWizz and the articulated bus used SBrick. Because of this, I wanted to build a medium-sized MOC that is not only functional, but can be built without potentially spending a ton of money on LEGO pieces. I thought of making a model of the JCB Fastrac tractor, but then I found something that looked even cooler: the JCB Fastrac Two. I originally started designing the model in Stud.io back in February, but got bored of it after a few days. I did not make any updates to the model until May, which was when I got into designing the bodywork. I finished the digital model in early June, and built the physical model over the past few weeks. Thanks to already having worked on the instructions along the way, I was able to simply follow the instructions I made while building the physical model, allowing me to finish this model much faster than some of my other ones. Some information on the JCB Fastrac Two: it is a modified JCB Fastrac tractor that is built purely for speed. It is the world's fastest tractor, and more information on the original JCB Fastrac Two can be found in this video. While the real-life JCB Fastrac Two is the world's fastest tractor, my model was not intended to break any LEGO speed records. I decided to use the Control+ system for this model, as the system is widely available and I can keep the model 100% LEGO. The model is powered by two Control+ L motors sitting above the rear axle. The chassis essentially consists of two halves with the hub in between, with the whole structure reinforced with longitudinal beams. The placement of the hub allows for easy battery access, and the hub is turned on via a hidden switch by the driver's seat. Steering is controlled by a Control+ Large Angular Motor (the one from the 42114 set). I preferred it over using a L motor as it has more torque, and it just feels more suited for steering operations to me. The rack and pinion setup is placed sideways, with transverse reinforcement for the rack. My initial setup was prone to skipping at either end of rack's range of movement, but moving the transverse support closer helped eliminate this skipping. Additional gearing from the steering mechanism connects it to a working steering wheel in the cabin, and the drive motors are connected to a 6-cylinder fake engine in the front. My plan was for this MOC to be a primarily Technic build, with System pieces used where needed. However, the model still saw a fair amount of System detailing, and it has nearly 90 half pins (not including the new friction ones), which goes to show the amount of System pieces that went in to add additional detailing. The cabin area of the bodywork was largely straightforward, with most pieces connected at right angles with an occasional slanted or curved section. Modeling the hood and fenders were more challenging, as these parts have much more of a curvature. While I'm not totally satisfied with how some of these parts turned out, I was able to model the design digitally before physically building it thanks to Stud.io which eliminated the need for trial and error. After finishing the build, I designed custom stickers for the model which were printed on opaque sticker paper at Staples. The paper is very good quality (beats the label paper I started out making stickers with), and is easy to apply to LEGO pieces. As for the performance and functionality, the model is decently fast for a Control+ model. It isn't crazy fast (e.g. RC motor/BuWizz speeds), but is fast enough while not straining the drive motors. And while there are only two independent controls (drive and steering), I feel that the fake engine and working steering wheel really gave the model something extra. Mini piston engines (the ones made with half bushes) are always satisfying to watch, and the rattling noise when running is pretty nice too. I feel that there could've been a better way to open the hood that did not require a prop (e.g. a locking linkage), but there wasn't as much space to install a linkage mechanism especially with the fake engine occupying the space right under the hood. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this project. Although I quickly got bored of this project after starting the design in February, my interest quickly rebounded after I got back to working on the instructions in May. Some parts could've been better, such as the hood and fenders, and I feel that the model could've gone a little faster. Still, the model isn't exactly light, and achieving a higher speed probably would mean compromising on some parts of the build. Video: Photos:
  2. Here's a new project I'm working on. It is a model of the JCB Fastrac Two. https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/features/christmas-road-test-worlds-fastest-tractor A modified JCB Fastrac tractor, the JCB Fastrac Two is the fastest tractor in the world, and can reach 150mph. My model will feature drive, steering, an inline-6 fake engine, and a working steering wheel. The model uses the Control+ system and features 2 C+ L motors for drive and a large angular motor (from the 42114 set) for steering. So far, I have done some initial modeling in Stud.io. I've modeled the drivetrain and the front axle, and the C+ hub sits between them near the bottom for easy battery access. Photos:
  3. A_Goodman

    [MOC] First Battle of Geonosis

    An Assembly Area on Geonosis, 22 BBY Clone Troopers assemble with Jedi evacuated from the Geonosian Arena. An Assembly Area on Geonosis, 22 BBY by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
  4. Just a small build of scenery for a Panzer IV L/70 Advance through the Ardennes, December 1944 by Nicholas Goodman, on Flickr
  5. Captain Kirk pressed the button on his chair. "Kirk here." "Security here, Captain. Mr. Spock has not been disguised as a Romulan. He's innocent. Unfortunately, we can't bring him back to the bridge. He's gone to assist in engineering to repair the engines." "Captain." Chekov said. "The Romulan ship has de-cloaked. They appear to be suffering major power problems. It seems that when they fired upon us, they were too close." "It seems that we'll be in a race to repair ships." --- You may now vote. With eight players, a majority of five is required to lynch. 48 hours remain in the day. Players: Captain James T Kirk - NPC Lieutenant Commander McCoy - Umbra-Mantis Lieutenant Commander Scott - Hinckley Lieutenant Sulu - Tariq j Lieutenant Uhura - Chromeknight Lieutenant Kyle - KotZ Ensign Chekov - jimmynick Ensign Mallory - CMP Nurse Chapel - Khscarymovie4 In The Brig Commander Spock - Trekkie99 - Starfleet Officer Rules (Please Read!) 1) There are nine players. Two of those players are Romulan Agents. The other seven are loyal Starfleet Officers. There are no third party players. 2) A game day will last for 48 hours. You may vote at any time during the day. You must vote. A player must be lynched every day or else. 3) There are no night actions in this game. The Starfleet Officers win by voting out all of the Romulans and the Romulans win by outnumbering or tying the town in a parity. 4) Use the power of the vote to win this game. 5) The alignment of players that have been voted out will be revealed the next day. 6) Under the honor rule, there will be no PMing in this game, except for the Romulans 7) Don't quote anything that the host sends you via PM 8) Once you are voted out, you may not post in thread or discuss the game with any players. 9) Don't edit your posts! 10) There's no clues anywhere.
  6. CommanderJonny1

    [MOC] Rebel Scorpius Mk II

    "The Mark I was a stopgap; the Mark II is a workhorse." -Rebel Alliance Officer I'm back with the Scorpius line of Multi-Role Vehicles, this time with the Mk II. I am working on a Mk III, though I don't know if I'll finish it or not; and even if I did, there probably won't be a Mk IV as there's only so much I can do with one overarching deign. Another point is that this is the largest version I was reasonably able to make with the bracket construction. As a result, there is a weakness in the 'tracks' area, as the main connection points between the sides and the bottom/chassis is at the front and the back. The versions with seats and/or equipment crossing the middle also help with the problem; this means that the Mk IIC is the weakest structurally (this makes a little sense in context). As opposed to the original Scorpius, which put everything on what was essentially the same hull/chassis, the Mk II's four different variants have noticeably different makeups, while still adhering to the same general design style. Sidenote- each variant (mainly the pictures) will be put into a spoiler section to try and minimize the size of the post. The first (and base) version of the Mk II is the Mk IIA, which functions as a standard (medium) armored vehicle. This version is the most versatile, being able to carry troops or cargo while still functioning in its main role as a front line combatant. The modularity of the Scorpius line is expanded in the Mk II, with the 'A' model having twice as many attachments as the Mk I, as well as multiple different configurations for its secondary armament. While some of these attachments are the same (or otherwise larger/upgraded versions of the previous ones), there are some new ones; a few of the attachments were thought of for the Mk I, but were deemed to be too big and therefore implemented on the Mk II. Another advantage of the Mk II is the fact that all of the attachments can be taken off and put in fixed positions (or turret emplacements) if need be, such as in the case of needing to quickly create fortifications. The second variant, the Mk IIB, is a 'Command & Communications Vehicle' that can be used to either coordinate Rebel forces (whether other Scorpii or not) or function in the Electronic Warfare role. The secondary armament is lighter to compensate for the increased weight of the sensor equipment and other additions. Powerful sensors were installed, and while both of the rear positions had their specialization, they could operate in the other's role in a secondary capacity during emergencies (with some modifications). Due to its sensitive nature and lack of heavy armament, the design focuses on survivability, with increased armor protection as well as canister launchers that can create smoke clouds to facilitate escape. The third variant, the Mk IIC, is a troop/cargo carrier; the gunner's position is removed and the main armament is replaced with manned turrets. Although these turrets are a bit exposed, the turrets can also be remotely activated by the driver. There are two versions of the Mk IIC, a lighter and heavier version, though both function in the same role. The two turrets that the 'C' model is equipped with is one with a Heavy Repeating Blaster, and one with a pair of twin missile launchers (as well as a communication array). The final variant, the Mk IID, is a Self-Propelled Gun/Artillery; the gunner's position is enhanced, and a Sensor Operator position is added right behind. As with the CCV, the Mk IID has a lighter secondary armament (and canister launchers), in this case to compensate for the larger main armament. This variant has a crew of four- a driver, a gunner, a Sensors Operator, and a spotter; the commander of the vehicle can either be the spotter or the Sensors Operator. Some 'D' models operate without the fourth crew member, and instead carry one or two 2x2 boxes. This is a decently sized vehicle, and as such it would fit the main spot in a battle line; the Mk I would be more of a scout or escort, while the Mk III (if ever finished) would be more of a support/assault/breakthrough vehicle. If you'd like to see a Mk III or not, say so (design suggestions would be welcomed as well). If you want to build these for yourselves, here's the instructions: Scorpius Mk IIA - https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WIH1HYCXpS7h2m0WsNKKExUv2-SIxYzy Scorpius Mk IIB, C, & D - https://drive.google.com/open?id=13pjbkONitA_VE1z-zBAMXfB0mM5-0dy2 As always, any feedback would be much appreciated!
  7. Do you have a daughter? My daughter appears as a turbulence to my life of being an AFOL. An ordinary AFOL may build models no other than houses, robots, cars and other sci-fi stuffs. Girl-themed LEGO sets do not coexist peacefully with your former builds. This is my experience. Up to date I have not seen LEGO movie 2, but I think this is a major of the story line. I assign a special task while building this creation -- to create some "floating elements", including the LEGO Movie 2 logo, the house (which does not touch the base) and the spaceship (which is meant to smash the ground by the girly monster). I am very delighted I was awarded a prize in a building competition hosted by HKLUG (Hong Kong LEGO Users Group). IMG_4465 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4478 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4471 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4468 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4459 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4461 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4458 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4472 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4467 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4473 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4463 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4488 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4486 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr IMG_4484 by skcheung730, 於 Flickr
  8. Nagol of Fortfield

    Clone Decals, Help!

    Hello custom-izers! I've been wanting to make some custom clones (or at least design some decals). Before I start, I'd like to know if anyone has, or knows, a good decal for this kind of clone: http://alpha.brickli...ode 2]#T=S&O={} That torso is used (I think) on all the new phase II clones as well. When I search the EU index, and the web I can only find decals for this kind: http://alpha.brickli... Wars]#T=S&O={} Also, which is you're favorite? Thanks!
  9. Graham Gidman

    [MOC] On the Run

    Made this with the help of my brother; he made the bench and radar by himself, and just helped with the rest. By the time it got to staging (this project took four days more than it was supposed to), I really didn't care all that much about it, so I kinda did random stuff. In other news, this is the first build I've done that's not for some sort of a contest since early October.
  10. If you follow me on my youtube (http://www.youtube.c...ser/1nxtmonster) you might have seen my RC crawler project. It used 2 RC motors and was quite fast and well performing. You might have also seen my RC rally car videos, they were fast and nimble. However, I want to combine the best of both worlds in one trial buggy package. So after a lot of trial and error, i was able to incorporate a 2-speed transmission into a crawler with RC motors. The ratios are 15:1 (slow crawler) and 3:1 (fast buggy). It is shifted by a mini linear actuator via an m motor. I'll do some more testing, and as usual this most likely isn't the final version. Pictures:
  11. The previous attempt at a large scale car failed because it was not strong enough for the drivetrain, and my attempts to make a sturdy chassis around it were not so great because of the vertical placement of the buggy motors. I have sitting on my desk now, a 2nd attempt at a large scale rc, with a much more simple and robust suspension, which will eventually use the new f1 hubs, at the moment I used the dark bley mog hub because of it's dimensions. I placed the buggy motors in a clever fashion, so there are many bracing opportunities for the rest of the chassis and the rear axle. Because of the eventual weight of the vehicle I had to put a combination of various shocks to get a perfect balance between soft and stiff-soft enough that it will absorb bumps and jumps but stiff enough that it wont bottom out (hit the ground) because there is a lot of travel and not that much clearance, and I will use the same wheels/tires as on the 42000. Photos: Enjoy!