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Found 538 results

  1. Lego Tatra T813 4x4 RC Trial Truck The famous Tatra T813 in lego version remote controlled, Versatile and durable as the original. Modular Design The scale model made ​​by me after several months of work, contains most of the features found in the real version, to significantly affect its performance are the axle shafts, transmission, suspension, chassis structure and weight distribution. It's powered by two powerful xl motors through a four-wheel drive, it has half-axles and various gear reductions. The Article of my blog To learn more about this amazing truck, visit the page dedicated to it on my blog, at the web address: http://gtathecomplet...trial-truck-v2/
  2. This is a bit of an older MOC I did last Halloween - (it's long scrapped now) but I thought I'd share this here as well - especially for those with a small taste of the macabre. Just after building Lego's Vampyre Hearse, a new, slightly-morbid-yet-cool idea spawned in my mind; what if I build a bigger, RC version of this? At first, I wasn't quite sure what it'll end up looking like, since I couldn't figure out what to model it after - a Cadillac? a Rolls-Royce? a Lincoln? - so, I went with all three - sort of, lol. Hearse Front by Octav_spot, on Flickr What's interesting is that the headlamps are actually yellow elements, but mixed together with the blue from the LED's, it came out green. I liked the look so much, I kept it as is. Hearse Rear by Octav_spot, on Flickr The side-lamps idea came to me in the last moment - I wish I'd of made them look closer to actual lanterns (since that's what original hearse carriages had.) To my surprise, the light came out looking almost purple, which seemed strikingly accurate. Hearse Profile by Octav_spot, on Flickr Two Hearses by Octav_spot, on Flickr Just the V8 engine itself was literally half the Vampyre Hearse. I laughed. Hearse Speed by Octav_spot, on Flickr To see it in motion, here's the video. I thought the reaction from my cat was pretty funny, so I kept it in the clip Currently working on an actual Rolls Royce... just haven't decided what model year yet... In any case, enjoy!
  3. Hello! Seems I am newbie, Anyway First topic RC lego boats Seems Very interesting, you can do that easy with many kinds of lego Boat Hulls. But that was a bit hard to buy (I don't know it is only happen to me ) So, I tried to make boat without boat hulls. In april, I made something, which is Very Slow, Just float a bit, Also Can't turn. And, I just tried to make something turn, But with NXT, that was So Slow, just Turning... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zr5MtfozOL4 (first part of this video) Now, Starting again, I wonder you can give me some tips, and suggestions. Thanks!
  4. I have the pleasure to present you my latest moc. The Caterhan Seven (also called Caterham 7) is the present version of the original Lotus Seven (or Lotus 7) designed by Colin Champan in 1957. This car is very famous because it is extremly ligth, and it has outstanding dinamic specs, which make this car perfect for its use in competition and track days. The original: This creation is made in scale 1:7. Thus remains in 29 studs wide, 56 of length and 20 fo high(23x45x16cm). The weigth is 2.2kgs. It has around 2500 parts. As all my MOCs, this includes some remote controlled functions: - Steering (PF M motor) - Drive (PF 2XL motors) - Sequential 5+R speeds gearbox (PF Servo motor) - Disc brakes (PF M motor) This car arrives with a 5+R speeds version of the all-new 3th generation of my sequential gearboxes. The new generation is even more compact and reliable. Of course it has auto.clutch It has a gear indicator in the cabin. Just behind the seats, over the rear axle are the battery and the drive motors (2XL) The Seven design is based in a tubular unibody frame with double wishbone front independent suspension and DeDion rear live axle. The front axle is double wishbone type with caster angle, camber angle and ackerman steering. The original Lotus 7 had a typical rear live axle, and the newest and powerfull version has independent suspension , but the most common rear axle is the DeDion axle. Like the real one, this creation has rear 3-links DeDion axle(you can see it in more detail in the video) The "most wanted" picture. This creationa also has working brakes in all wheels(the same brakes used in my Land-Rover) Like the real Seven, this creation mantains the unibody frame. Also to reduce the weigth, the frame and the bodywork are the same thing. The yellow liftarms in both sides of the car are the bodywork, but at the same time are the frame of the car. This picture shows how the structure is made As always a little video: For more info and pictures you can visit sheepo.es Fernando
  5. Hello! My newest mini moc is also a Tatra. My goal was to make a 8x8 813 model with realistic Tatra suspension: This was my first moc, which could be build with 1:1 scale from a paper: I always wanted to build a really small Tatra with the wheels from 8842. This wheel has a diameter of 43 mm, so the proportional width is about 11 stud. That's even not enough, too narrow, but I had success with the suspension and drivetrain in 13 stud width. The first and second axle has steering, and all axle is driven and suspended. With U-joint there is no way to build it narrower. I used 3 different shock absorbers. The first axle has harder ones to hold the weight reliable in the front. The steering mechanism only steers directly the left wheels, the right ones are steered by the 9L links: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748589 The ground clearance enables 25 mm high obstacles under the truck. Of course it can go through much bigger ones, as can be seen below in the video. The drivetrain is pretty simple Tatra like, with assimmetric left and right side: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748587 In the picture it also can be seen that the front 4 wheels are driven with a small 2L thin liftarm to prevent clacking(if it uses pins and pulley). There wasn't problem with that, in every terrain kept the front wheels the correct position. They look like the valve cover of the wheels.( I forgot to take them also in the rear wheels) Maybe from the pictures we can think that the 12 bevel gears can go out in the middle of the axles. They can't. The 2L red axles prevent that (I used strong 12 gears and loose U-joints). The suspension worked well in terrain, this Tatra doesn't carries tons of weight, stronger axles aren't necessary. The wheel travel is about 2 stud or a bit more depending of the axle. Technic inside: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748652 The steering M motor is in the front, the driving M motor is in the rear part. The M motor is powerful with 6:1 final ratio. It can be, because the weight is only 761 g. The stability surprised me. In the video can be seen some test. The aesthetics was also important for me, this one isn't a trial truck, more civil version. I had to cut the mudguards to give space for the wheels, and of course it's a bit higher than the real Tatra to have wheel travel. The front grill has a Tatra logo and some covering sticker: The on/off button is in the top of thew vehicle: If you hit the PF connector, the front LED lights will work(video). I didn't want a PF switch, and wanted to try this out. And the video with infos: If somebody needs, I can upload the building instructions.
  6. Hi Everyone! I just created this, and thought I would share, as it might give someone an idea for a us in a Moc or something. I'm thinking a car perhaps with seats on top. It could only be 3 studs high. It basically gears around the stationary motors and I'm guessing creates the following ratios. 1 motor equals 4:1 2 motors equals 2:1 3 motors equals 4:3 And 4 motors equal 1:1 output. Now if you could create a level on the remotes that engages 1 channel at a time, you would have silky smooth gear changes! Sorry if this has been done before!
  7. Hi all, I've finally bought a 7897 Passenger Train, which I want to run alongside my PF setup. I haven't received it yet, but I'm interested if it's possible to route the power from the included: "white train chassis 6x30 with IR Receivers integrated battery (6xAA)" (see below pic from LEGO/toysperiod). through to a PF IR receiver, then to either the included motor or a PF train motor (preferably without a (permanent) physical modification). From what little I know about IR, the unit may have to be receiving an "ON" IR signal from the remote by 'line of sight', to work....so I guess my question is: Is there a logical/natural/clear/obvious/sensible way to bypass this? Thanks, LLL
  8. I build a second version of my race car, surprisingly called RACE2. Here is a small with lots of slow motion action shots. See it break going down the stairs. :-) Building instructions and more photos are available here. What do you think?
  9. If you follow me on my youtube (http://www.youtube.c...ser/1nxtmonster) you might have seen my RC crawler project. It used 2 RC motors and was quite fast and well performing. You might have also seen my RC rally car videos, they were fast and nimble. However, I want to combine the best of both worlds in one trial buggy package. So after a lot of trial and error, i was able to incorporate a 2-speed transmission into a crawler with RC motors. The ratios are 15:1 (slow crawler) and 3:1 (fast buggy). It is shifted by a mini linear actuator via an m motor. I'll do some more testing, and as usual this most likely isn't the final version. Pictures:
  10. After my last truck with a two speed transmission and air lockers, I decided to try more gears in my transmission. I searched for transmission ideas and came across the regular four speed transmission. The common wisdom is that driving rings cannot handle any torque. This is accurate. I had to increase the gear reducton in the axles and step up the motor on the transmission input to reduce the torque that the transmission "felt". I also maded the linkage from the servo to the driving ring incapable of being backdriven. It still pops occasionally, but reengaging the driving rings with the servos clears it up. It also has a neutral gear and this allows it to roll after the throttle has been released. Eliminating any extra gear exchanges to improve efficiency, reducing weight, and maintaining a rigid structure for the transmission to operate within became critical. I tried to get rid of the knob gears connected to the rc buggy motors outputs, but was unsuccessful. 12t to 12t ground the gears down 20t to 20t also ground the gears down 24t to 24t crown would not fit. Caster angle on front axle is accomplished by less angle on the lower links. I tried a wider version of the LPE power unimog axle that has kingpin inclination. It worked and did not fall apart, but its turning radius was larger than a traditional steering axle and so it was discarded. It still is assembled, just not mounted on the truck. I made air lockers based off of the new 3 stud wide differential, but ended up discarding them because they added unnecessary complication. I killed several u joints on the driveshaft before I moved up to 9:1 reduction in the axle. The u joints that are installed have wax string wrapped around the ends and a small piece of heat shrink tube over that. This is a repair because all of my joints are now cracked. If a tire becomes blocked in first gear with the steering turned, this design can quickly destroy u joints in the axle. There are a couple of altered pieces. 3l bars have had a couple of mm ground off to secure the towballs on the chassis and there is a 4.5 stud axle going to the knob gear on the transmission input. Both elements could be done without. It would require some redesign though. Moving to a 9398 style suspension and increasing the wheelbase would eliminate both of these issues. I used 4l bars to secure the towballs in the axles. They fit into the back of the towball and prevent it from popping out of the lift arm. Questions, comments, concerns, relevant war stories???? v/r Andy
  11. Locomotive Annie

    Problem: Weak and watery RC loco

    For the very first time I attempted to give my newly built steam electric loco a run and the result was fairly underwhelming. The loco is built on a brand new RC train plate, the motor is brand new, the RC tramsmitter is brand new and so is the connector wire between the electrics and the motor bogie. I'm using Panasonic Evolta batteries for the first run instead of rechargeables and not a great deal happened when I pushed the go button. Yes the 'on' switch on the loco was indeed 'on' by the way. It sort of wanted to go so I checked all the connections and made sure all the contacts in the battery holder were shiny bright and still the response was very weak. Since I did have a second new RC motor block I substituted it for the motor that was in the loco and things were slightly better in that the loco could now move backwards and forwards without being prodded, but it didn't convince me that it would be able to haul anything. At the moment I've got the loco doing circuits on a circle of large radius track, but I can't say I'm very convinced. Any ideas as to what might be the problem? - because I'm feeling really stumped here.
  12. Hello all, Although this truck is almost a year old, I have never found the time to post it. This is my first attempt at really following a real prototype and turning it into Lego. When doing research looking for trucks to build, I fell in love with the Titan series from Mack trucks. You get the true "American" truck feel from it. For a trailer, I built a detachable goose-neck trailer which can carry my Tigercat Fellerbuncher (also 1/16 scale). This truck is also my first attempt at realistic rear suspension, in which I borrowed ideas from 2LegoorNot2Lego. As with all of my creations, every feature of the truck is remote control. The truck itself features drive, steering and openable 5th wheel. As for the trailer, it features completely remotely controlled detachment of the hitch. On the hitch itself, it is remotely tilted and raised from the bed of the truck when the trailer is detached. The locking mechanism was strongly borrowed again from 2Legoornot2lego's amazing trailer. I also gave some non-Lego LEDS a try in this truck and they worked great and the battery was small enough to be able to hide it. Overall the truck was a lot of fun to build and drive around, I think the fellerbuncher fits very well as a load. The video has also become one of the most popular on my channel, I hope you enjoy: I would love your critique as a builder. Tim
  13. On YouTube, CamsPL / Cams posted of his yellow Lego Technic Walking & Turning Biped (W&TB) Mecha model. It uses three Power Functions (PF) Medium motors to walk and turn. More on his Flickr photoset, and on his Brickshelf Gallery (when moderated). He also made the red Walking & Riding Biped (W&RB). which uses four Power Functions M-motors to make it "ride, walk, skate, and turn" : ( ) (Flickr photoset) (Brickshelf Gallery when moderated)