Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Remote Control'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic and Model Team
    • LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics
    • LEGO Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • LEGO Digital Designer and other digital tools
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?



Website URL








Special Tags 1

Special Tags 2

Special Tags 3

Special Tags 4

Special Tags 5

Special Tags 6

Country flag

Found 30 results

  1. Hi again, Especially the Technic Fans part of this community, hosts people from almost all ages, say 9+ So, I think, this is a tough question: What do you think: Should the newer sets have more models which are: * More complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * More complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Less complex but without motor(s) and/or RC, * Less complex and with motor(s) and RC, * Stay in the same "choice/production system by LEGO" or, * Leave the moddings/mods to the MOC creators? You may say that "it depends", you may say that "the topic is stupidly created because some are more into classic models with lots of mechanical but not motorized/RC parts, some do, so there is no definitive answer to this", BUT, I would kindly like to have your OWN thoughts. For example; I would like to see a Bugatti Chiron Set which has the same complex system, but also being able to be remote controlled and capable of reaching at least 25 km/h. Take this topic like a poll with detailed answers with intra-members-communication, as well. I hope I made myself clear. Many thanks in advance and, Best Regards, Idris
  2. I made this model a long time ago, and I just figured that I'll share it here too. Features: PF RC driving by 2 XL motors PF RC steering by a servo motor PF RC opening doors by 2 M motors working front PF lights Independent suspensions on all wheels Openable hood Working fake V8 engine The white tubes for the body are not official LEGO parts, I bought them in a local supermarket in the party equipment section. The video shows the old version of the model which did not have the doors motorized and the back slightly different. The pictures with white background are the new version. Video: Some more pictures: More pictures: Instruction: Google Drive: Dropbox:
  3. I was playing around with power functions remotes, trying to bash out a joystick-style remote control for my latest project, but all my efforts were unsatisfying to me. So I searched around for some designs and I came upon Technic Dragon's excellent design. Having found it to my liking, shamelessly ripped it off drew inspiration from it to make this remote. The design is practically the same, I only made small improvements to decrease the part count. I hope you all find it to your liking as well. Here's the LDD file. Hope you enjoy it!
  4. Please suport my project on Lego Ideas. Power functions: 3x L-motor 1x IR Receiver 1x IR Remote Control 1x AAA Battery Box 1x Control Switch 1x Extension Wire Description All openable doors. Model have fake motor V6. Color: Black and Yellow Number of Pieces: 800-100 Thank you very much for your support! Military version: Hägglunds BV 206s
  5. Hi, lovers of Lego! Today I want to show you my new 4x4 MOC - Nissan Datsun '1996 in D21 body. Specifications of MOC Model Lego Technic Nissan Datsun built on all-wheel drive platform, has a beam axle with unlocked differentials front and rear, steering - rack and pinion. The body and chassis are separate elements and are fastened to each other by 4 points. Opened doors, hood and door body. Electrics: LiPo unit XL motor on movement Servo motor - steering IrV2 - Remote control Just want to say that this story of this model, I did not finish and I want to continue it in the back of double cab body. It all began with the construction of low general pickup, its theme, you can see here on EB. By the summer I want to build a second pick-up and take over the full video on the outdoor. I do not really want to ride on the dirty snow right now.
  6. Dear All, there are numerous contributions on electrifying LEGO train switches, including those here on EB. All-LEGO solutions, all-custom solutions and “everything in between” has been presented. One issue for my layout was: How to control about 30 electrified switch points on a fairly large and rather congested layout with many areas not readily accessible – in a purist solution? Using individual cables going from one single “control center” to the switches would result in some considerable cable mess. Alternatively, PF receivers may serve as remote controllers on “PF layouts” – manipulated via IR light from the center. That is a very elegant solution, however, there are only 4 x 2 IR channels (or 8 x 2 in extended mode with a mandatory custom remote control program), which is not enough on my layout, particularly when running several PF controlled trains eating up channels as well. One approach is a fully LEGO based solution using LEGO programmable bricks (PBricks). With such PBricks one can use a variety of motors on the drives and also some fairly flimsy switch drives because of power and timing control of the drive train. Furthermore, with some software development (e.g., NQC, RobotC, NXC, NXT-G …) the controllers may get their own “address” and operation software. However: Cost may become an issue: You need 1 NXT or 1 RCX for each set of 3 switch drives, or 1 Scout for each pair of 2 drives (in case the drive is operated with one additional MicroScout, the Scout can also operate 3 drives) … More recently, LEGO compatible 3rd party switch drive controllers have become available: The 4DBrix ( varieties are extremely nice! What I find particularly intriguing is the control software. The entire product line from switch drive, controller, to full software integration is the best LEGO compatible solution I became aware of. Nevertheless, here is my all-LEGO “solution”: Brick-built switch drive controllers equipped with PBricks. Please don’t take this post too seriously. It was a lot of fun to build these – plus I like to see stuff moving and making noise (in addition to trains that is) on my layout. Since a video says more than 1000 words, here is the “visual summary” of the rather long write-up following below: And here are some more detailed descriptions ... Working principle The idea of this approach is rather old; in 2007 this article in Railbricks Issue #3, page 44 illustrated some details: The controllers serve more than 3 switch drives with only one PBrick by “mechanical address decoding” – or whatever you want to call it. At that time though I did not think about “simple” motorized switch drives; the ones I used then were all equipped with MicroScouts and were designed to run only with these. That limited the applicability of the controllers on my layout significantly: You need to turn on a MicroScout and put it into “P” mode to let it do what is expected from an electrified switch drive. However many of the switches are hard to get to – hiding behind bookshelves and underneath/within furniture. I have thus added mechanical switch drive controllers for operation with NXT, RCX, and Scout PBricks operating most of the LEGO electrical motors, including PF. So far I have electrified all my switches and bunched them up in “groups” using four such switch drive controllers. What are the controllers supposed to do? They serve as “local remote control hubs” for a group of switch drives. There is essentially only a purely mechanical “bricking” limitation on how many switches can be handled by each controller. The controllers have a dedicated address, for simplicity let’s say address 1, 2, 3; the individual switch drive is hooked up to the respective switch drive controller and has a local “address”, let’s say a, b, c, … The last bit of information required is the switch position, let’s call that “straight (s)” or “turn (t)”. The information sent to all the controllers on the layout is then “controller address + local switch address + switch position”, for example “2, d, t” means that switch “d” operated on controller “2” should go into “turn” position. As shown in these posts here and here, all communication on my layout is via the LEGO IR messaging protocol, mostly transported via RF. Figure 1 shows a “bare” Scout operated switch controller without any decorative stuff; Figure 2 a controller with an additional decorative brick structure remotely matching the Toy Story steam engine coaling station, Figure 3 a controller that is residing within a “building” remotely matching (if at all) the appearance the #10027 train shed – however with a rather “transparent” roof (in fact I got hold of 50+ of transparent #41750 pieces for free and all were left handed … what to do with them?). Figure 4 shows a more or less bare controller I built because I needed to serve 12 switch drives in locations under my desk and further away. All four work on the same principle, but use slightly different mechanical operating techniques. The Scout operated controllers in Picture 1 and 2 use the Scout’s Visible Light Link (VLL) terminal (“Output C”) to connect with MicroScout operated switch drives via an optical fiber link. In my opinion, TLC never really exploited the possibilities of the VLL link. They for example never produced optical fibers longer than about 20 cm, as far as I know. Rather cheap plain vanilla optical fibers (1 m for less than 1 €) are good enough. The controller in picture 3 runs with an RCX PBrick and uses PF switches to operate switch drives equipped with PF or 9V motors. It features a moving stage powered by a PF M motor and a Technic mini motor for actuating the lever throwing the PF switches. The controller in Picture 4 operates an almost identical stage. The stage drive is not mounted on the stage itself; the Scout drives the stage via Technic chain links (#3711) with a stationary #47154 motor and again a Technic mini motor (#43362) for switching. Common to all controllers is the “positioning” mechanism of the moving stage: In case of the optical controllers, VLL light from the Scout output needs to go through the corresponding fiber connecting with the MicroScout operating the switch drive. The fibers are simply pushed through Technic bushes into a Technic brick with holes, in other words they are always nicely lined up. So we just need to get the VLL light from the Scout to the corresponding hole. That is accomplished by either moving the entire Scout PBrick (see controller in Picture 2) or by moving the 20 cm long LEGO optical “fibers” (BrickLink ID x400c20). These are more or less plastic tubes that came with the ExoForce sets – finally I found a way to use them …) connected to the VLL terminal to the target hole, see picture 1. The Scout has a built-in light sensor; that one is used to detect when the VLL output diode is in line with a hole or somewhere in between by measuring the light intensity emitted from a LEGO light brick (9V or PF): When the light from that brick goes through a hole, the detector sees it “brightly”, when it is more or less blocked, it only sees a fraction of the “bright” light. When the “hole detection” mechanism is lined up with the fibers, we are done; this is readily the case when stacking Technic bricks with holes. Basically the same approach is used for the RCX controllers; here we need to get in line with the PF switch levers. When lining up PF switches directly next to each other, the levers are 3 holes apart, and we can use a simple optical positioning mechanism again to get to the right switch. The actuator of the moving stage for throwing the PF switches (see Figure 3 + 4 and video) is partly shown in Figure 6. Since the PF switch has three positions (“forward”, “0”, “reverse”) and the switch drive motor is turned on only for less than a second, the PF switch needs to be swiftly turned back to the “0” position. That is tough to do with powering the actuator motor accordingly. Furthermore, the lever needs to be straight up after switching, as the stage/actuator needs to freely pass the switches when moving to a new target. I have used the fairly tight 6.5L shock absorbers (#73129) to push the actuator back into “0” position after the switch was thrown. As mentioned, the switch is thrown with full torque of the Technic mini motor (PBrick output “full forward/reverse”) as the actuator has also always to push against one of the two springs of the shock absorbers. The output of the PBrick is then put into “float” rather than “stop” mode, so that the motor axle turns freely and the compressed spring of the absorber pushes both the PF switch lever as well as the actuator into “0” position. Programming the PBricks The programs running on the PBricks are rather straight forward. NXT, RCX, and Scout PBricks are all capable of multitasking. In my programs, one task is handling incoming messages. The moment an address is recognized by a PBrick as “my ID”, it listens very carefully for the next message(s) to come in; that one contains local switch address and desired position. The routine puts that message onto a stack, sends a “got that” reply and continues to listen for further messages to arrive. A second task watches the stack: Nothing here, nothing to do. Once there are messages on the stack it fetches one, analyzes it and drives the positioning mechanisms to the appropriate output, sends out either VLL light or briefly operates the PF switch by changing the driving Technic mini motor from “float” (off) to “forward” (or “reverse”) and then back to float. After completion it throws the message away and continues with the next one on the stack. How does each controller know, where the moving stage actually is? Upon startup, the stage is driven all the way to the right, until it reaches the “right limit” touch sensor. Then the light brick is turned on and the trolley moves all the way back to the “left limit” touch sensor. On this journey, the light sensor continuously monitors the light intensity. The brightest light value detected is then considered a “hole”; everything else “in between”. Then the trolley moves back all the way to the right touch sensor and on its way, holes are counted and each switch is thrown to get all switches into the “straight” position. Now we know how many switch points are present, we know they are all set to straight, and we know that we are at position “0”. Upon getting a message, let’s say “turn switch 5” it starts to move left and simply counts up holes. Once it arrives at “5” it stops and is automatically aligned with either a corresponding hole for the VLL output of the Scout or the lever of a PF switch. Then it either sends out the VLL forward/reverse command (Scout) for a given amount of time or it throws the PF switch (RCX/NXT), again for a given amount of time. The switch drive motors are turned on within a “hundreds of millisecond” time frame. This time is adjusted to the requirements of the switch drive. That is basically it. The VB6 program (I am old …) running on my laptop is showing my layout with all the track including switches. Basically the program is one database with some graphics and in/output around. Clicking on one of the switch symbols makes the corresponding real switch change its direction. The program searches the database and finds out which controller is assigned to this switch. Furthermore it finds out to which local output (a, b, c …) that switch is connected on the selected controller. Since the program knows the current status of the switch on the layout it composes a message as described above: Controller address + local switch address + new position and sends that out via the IR tower into RF space. There is a little more to it. To ensure rather secure communication between host computer and remote controller, there is a handshake protocol: The controllers acknowledge messages they understood. If there is no reply, the host control program repeatedly sends out the same messages. If there is still no answer for let’s say five consecutive attempts, a warning message tells that something is wrong. The controllers also have some safety routines – should the stage go beyond the end points it stops operating and sends an SOS message, and do on. Seeing this happen is real fun! However the SOS thing hardly happens at all … Another thing to notice is that MicroScouts go to “sleep mode” when not doing anything for about 10 minutes. So every 9 minutes or so, the stage is driven all the way to the left, then right, recalibrates the light sensor, and then back left, stopping at every hole and let each MicroScout play some sound. So they never fall asleep … and there is even more action on the layout. One thing I am somewhat proud of is that all that functionality is possible with 396 LEGO byte codes on the Scout controllers. The RCX PBricks have monstrous 8 kByte of storage space – I believe you could use an RCX to successfully fly to the moon, land there, play soccer, and safely return. These TLC folks are ingenious. And if you don’t want to run a clumsy computer based control program – learning remotes work also very well for easily controlling more than 30 switch drives. This was already discussed in this post. The number keys “1” through “9” correspond to switch drives 1 to 9. I first press one color key (ID), addressing a particular controller and then swiftly a number key. The controller that recognizes the address operates the corresponding switch drive and puts the switch to the “branch” position. Upon pressing the address and then number key twice, it goes to “straight” … Some files The LDraw mpd files for three controller types (Fig 1 – 3) are here along with the NQC programs here running on the PBricks. The controller in Fig. 4 is in the works). Please see readme files in the directories. Note that you need to have the official and unofficial LDraw parts libraries installed. When opening the LDraw files with MLCad, the program tells you that newer versions of some parts are available. Ignore that, otherwise the model may be corrupted. All LDraw files open correctly with LDView 4.2 and MLCad 3.5 Best regards, Thorsten
  7. hi all, I have just started into the world of Lego trains and controlling them with Arduino and i'm afraid it's become somewhat of an obsession! I have always loved Lego and trains since I was a child but could never afford it. I have a son who's 6 and shares my love of trains so I figured now was a good time to start! :-D I have limited amount of Lego at the moment, and have been mucking around in LDD and building some signals, etc..this also includes using Arduino to control lights as well as first try with using some IR transmitter LEDs worked, but not real well which made me wonder whether IR is really the best method of control..I have read alot of comments already from people that RF is really the way to go so I will try that next when the 433Mhz Tx and Rx pair arrive. This led me to think of the next weakest link in the chain..the battery, which only lasts so long and is a pain to have to pull out and change..I know Lego and even third party companies have a rechargeable battery, but I'm buggered if I'm gonna pay $100-120 for each one!!! I've never had any 9v or 12v rail-powered Lego, and the way I understand it, you switch on the control, it powers the rail so much and makes the train go...but what if the rail was powered on all the time and you still controlled the train with an internal controller (like the RF receiver). Any thoughts on this? Sorry if I sound like a noob, since I have no experience with how the track-powered system works. sPy from Oz.
  8. Hey guys, I wanted to test myself with non-symmetrical building as before my dark ages I used to always build everything symmetrically. Having just arisen from the dark ages about a month ago, I realized that to fit multiple functions and to utilize space, I realized that this skill was needed. Anyways, the Hatchback is actually inspired by French cars with long(ish) bonnets and the Renault clio V6 with it's rear engine taking up the rear seats... Please watch the video and give me feedback, I need to find great spaces for battery boxes in my later creations haha, Thanks
  9. Presenting the 8258-B Crawler, Designed and built as an entry for the 'Crawlify your set' contest [AMS1] I'm a huge fan of b-models in general, but the 8258-B has always been one of my favourites due to great looks and an easy to modify. Or so I thought... In the end, I reckon about 85% of the chassis has been custom built. There are two L motors situated just below the cabin. One powers the front axle, one powers the rear. Both axles have differentials because, being independently powered, loss of traction is a lot less likely and it saves my poor pieces from becoming mangled. Because the 8258-B is rather small (read: narrow) I had a lot of trouble designing a front axle that could house a servo motor without limiting the range of suspension travel. Eventually I gave up and ended up modifying this axle to accommodate a differential (well deserved credit to the amazing @Madoca 1977). However with that said, I have made sure the bodywork stays almost 100% true to the original. The only alteration I had to made was to the rear wheelarches to make room for the balloon tyres: Original wheelarch Modified wheelarch: Also, the front winch kept scraping on obstacles I was trying to climb over so I switched this out for a bullbar, however the two are easily interchangeable. Anyways, here's a video of this thing in action. As always, please let me know what you think. Whether it's praise, criticism or telling me off for building ANOTHER red and black model (I have other colours, I swear!!), I'd love to hear it. More images can be found in this bricksafe folder. Enjoy =)
  10. Let's start of showing you where I'm at now, then we'll talk about where I was and why that didn't work. The weapon is a horizontal spinner, driven directly by two XL motors, with two loaded battery boxes in the blade. I tried a couple variations of using belts and clutch gears to protect the motors but none of that really worked. Ultimately it's remote controlled so the driver is the clutch gear, I suppose. Because the spinner is fairly high off the ground, higher than I figure many of the other bots will be, I needed some way to reach out and touch those little guys. I was originally thinking of doing a retractable ramp that would extend out from the middle of the bot and force them up into the spinner. Then I decided to use linear actuators at the back and pivot the whole superstructure down. At maximum lift the blade gets within 4L of the ground. This approach sacrifices a lot of rigidity of the superstructure. Well, it's still rigid, but it is not solidly connected to the body. This means some of the impact when the spinner connects is going to be lost, but I like the idea of being able to target specific heights on the other bot. I think it's a worthy trade-off. When at max lift the bottom front edge of the superstructure rests on the top front of the base to help with this, as well as a lot of bracing on the vertical guides on either side of the superstructure. A side effect is that the superstructure is easily detached from the base with the removal of two pins, two 3L thin liftarms, and one electrical connection. I originally intended all the RC receivers to be in the back of the superstructure but once I added the lifting feature that would have required a ridiculous number of extension cables that I don't have. So I put one on either side of the base and tried to make it not look too out of place. The long panels unfortunately can't be any higher without getting brushed by the spinner. Drive is two L motors through worm gears, so it's not a speedy bot. The three wheel design with a lot of the weight on the third wheel almost directly under the center of the spinner makes it able to rotate almost in place. The plan is keep the other bot in front of you and let them come to you. It just has to be able to spin faster than they can drive around. Lift mechanism is an M motor. The base is pretty solid other than a few decorative fill in pieces. Battery boxes are integral but you can replace the batteries just by removing the black 15L liftarms on the top. Now we come to my tale of woe. The bot's name was supposed to be "The King". Bricklinked a bunch of 3L axles and yellow half bushes to make its crown. Two sets of inverted tracks mounted on springs to soften any blows. The King was quite proud of his sapphire in its bezel. The color cast by the dark trans blue on the yellow was the inspiration for using bright green on the base. There was just one slight problem once all the pieces came in and the crown was complete. Too much weight on the turntables. I guess I should have known. I tried running a liftarm inside the two turntables to support weight very early on in the build but that actually made it much worse. Anyway, without any complex drivetrain to protect the crown was much bigger than it needed to be and kind of pointless so its not the end of the world. It had personality though. So I changed the name to Regicide because The King is dead. Now I have to come up with something much lighter to make the top look finished. I'm not sure if I will even keep the yellow circle. Getting rid of all that would bring the weight down a lot and speed up the spinner. I have a bunch of the shorter bright green panels I could do something with. Oh, it was 45x45x40 with the crown. Now I think it's around 45x40x32.
  11. Hello! Going through my parent's attic over xmas I rediscovered my old 12v train set, which I'm now trying to restore and get working again. After cleaning up a bunch of contacts with WD40 the actual train and power brick work, which is nice. However the remote control for the signals seems to be completely jammed and neither button will actually move. Has anyone successfully repaired one of these? I can't even see how to take it apart without breaking it. Thanks
  12. Based on the Mercedes-Benz G500 Cabriolet design, and carried out a more radical modification. Two L motor drive, one servo motor steering, four-wheel drive, remote control. Using two special parts, one is above the 42043 logo, and the other is x85 (lamp bowl). Rear bumper design is still in the adjustment. http://www.moc-pages.../moc.php/430479
  13. HI! Today i want to present you my new work - Aircraft Tug XL I started this project a year ago, but bring to mind it succeeded only now. Meet Aircraft Tug XL (Pushback tug/Tractor tug). The model is an extension of the project Aircraft Tug 2014, many of which I am personally not satisfied, and therefore had an idea to build something more functional, large and attractive. Thus was born the Aircraft Tug XL. Machines of this kind is mainly used at airports when towing aircrafts to parking or vice versa - to the runway. I think everyone who has ever been in the large airports, have seen similar tugs. Less a similar technique can be found in seaports or any other freight terminals that require towing heavy loads. This truck has four-wheel drive by two XL motors, independent steering front and rear axle on two servo motors, lifting mechanism cabin, as well as a system of four mechanical jacks driven by two motors L. Full remote management for that answer 3 infrared receiver, and power models provide two large battery pack located on the sides, and of course, he has V10 on board! The functional copy of the tractor completely original machine. The layout of the indoor units I came as close to real. Dimensions: D / W / H 56/27/15 stud. 445/220/120 mm. The model is made of 100% Lego parts except stickers - I made them their own. The basis of design I took the logo of the Khabarovsk airport - in the form of a flying bear. In Russia bears do not just walk down the street with balalykas, but also know how to fly :) I also worked on the detailed cabin from the outside to the inside. Now, in contrast to the previous tractor, the door is open, there is a full salon, which are two fire extinguishers, driver's seat and the passenger, levers, steering wheel, and monitor devices. Tractor turned quite powerful, as you can see by watching video. In practice, it is able to move from his seat and dragged to drag a weight of not less than 6 kg, as long as the batteries have been good charge :) You may see more information and photos on my blog
  14. Here's another small creation I spend some time on the past few weeks. A small American truck: I had a few wishes before I made this model. - Had to be 7 studs wide. - Had to use these tires, because they are the only tire size I know of that have good looking "truck (double) wheels" for the rear axles and good looking single tires for the front wheels. - Small fake engine - Maximum steering range possible - Steering controlled from the 5th wheel (why will become obvious later) - Openable doors and interior I got this in the model, though some are not the most pretty. Especially the wheelarches at the front are a bit big. First of all, making the wheel arch a full stud lower would touch the wheels. Lowering it half a stud is something I didn't even really look into, because I am getting pretty tired of the "half stud issue" that plagues pretty much all my models The rear part of the wheelarch is that far behind the wheel due to the steering mechanism. There is space to move it 1 stud closer to the front wheel, but I wouldn't know how to fix it in place while still keeping room for the steering rack. Considering I have alot of "old Technic" parts I used some vintage steering solutions for this model combined with modern parts. On the other hand though I do kind of like this wheelarch, because it reminds me of the wheelarches of old cars I could have settled for a smaller steering angle, but I didn't want to. I also had to keep the steering solution low due to the fake L4 engine above it A known concept for a small engine that I crammed in here. The hood is open for 2 reasons: I like to see stuff moving and because the hood would otherwise be too high for the model. I tried to mimic a curved top on the hood by have it go from 2 to 3 studs. I did have a desire to make a openable hood, but I couldn't figure out a way to make that structurally sound. Openable doors and an interior. The chairs are actually linked to the red triangular half liftarms on the outside keeping them (and the chairs) at that angle. The belly shot, which also provides another look at the steering That 8T gear is actually connected to a 16T idler gear on the steering axle to transfer it to another 8T gear going to the L4 engine. The truck is only driven from the 2 left rear wheels, since I can't fit a diff in this scale I figured this was the next best thing to still keep a nice steering angle. As you can see the outer ring of the small turntable, the "5th wheel", is connected to a black bevel gear which controls the steering. The reason for the axle in the centre of the small turntable is for the trailer. The trailer is a loaded with liftarms, that's partially because I only had 2x 3x11 panels from my 42029 and because of the white line on the truck which I continued on the trailer. The white line on the truck was actually an afterthought. The truck was completely red before, but that looked rather dull imo so messing around with some lines I decided this pattern on the truck was a nice break from all the red. This isn't just a trailer. This is a trailer that gives the truck RC possibilties. This was another wish I had for the model. I wanted to build a truck that was a non PF model on its own, yet had the option of being remote controlled with a trailer. The small turntable was an obvious choice for me because with that the truck on its own looks like it has a pretty decent looking 5th wheel which also allows to be used as a control to steer the vehicle. It also allowed me to have 2 functions (drive and steer) crammed into one spot on the model. I didn't want to see universal joints at the rear of the trailer going to the truck for steering, because that has been done and I don't like the look of that, so it had to go through the 5th wheel. The black bevel gear at the front of the trailer is to secure the steering of the 8T gear. Of course the trailer turns as well, but since steering is done with a M motor you're basically "re-adjusting" steering every step of the turn. The length of the trailer is based on what "felt right". This meant that I had plenty of space in the trailer for all the stuff. I got pretty lazy and just used some universal joints to link the motors I also made a very small video of the model (battery of phone ran out ) I couldn't make a video of the model going in reverse. It does some gear grinding then. Something I can't seem to really fix, because Lego decided to make a square hole in the small turntable instead of a round one, which I could have used to secure that drive axle on the 2.5 stud high rear chassis some more. Considering I don't like driving it in reverse anyway (I am not a master of turning with a trailer ), I am just going to leave it.
  15. How to Motorize the Mars Rover I am looking for some suggestions. My daughter is building the Mars Rover set (go here for the details: for a presentation at school and I told her I would help make it operate by remote control with one of the power function kits. Problem is that it is a lot more complex than I thought. (I have no experience at the expert level building. (No building the rover is not part of the project, she is doing it as an additional part of her presentation on Rovers). I think I can maybe get it moving with a remote, receiver and simple motor attached to one wheel, but I do not have any idea how to do the steering and don’t know how to move any of the other functions (camera, antenna, robotic arm). see So, to steer, I use a servo? How do I operate the other things, more servos? And to move things slowly, do I need complex gearing? (I was looking at the SBrick which might work. I saw a few designed steering racks and chassis on Ebay, some simple, some pretty complex. Would I be better off buying another set that has a chassis and steering and drive designed to work with motors and then build it and adapt the Rover to it? Any suggestions to help me figure out what I need to do and what to buy to easily make this work would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  16. Here's my work in progress for the Sbrick contest. The plan to build this was actually before the contest was announced, but I didn't actually start building until januari, just had a rough draft in my head until then. I usuallly don't post WIP stuff, but since I solved the problems I had with this build (and there were many, but more on that later), I feel confident enough to post a little about it. It has the following functions: 2x L motor for drive (and steering obviously ) 2x M motor for the arms The M motors will also fulfill another role, but I am keeping that as a surprise for now. I tried to "hide" the 2 IR recievers in Wall-E's front. He has a display there too where the black tops of the recievers pop, though it isn't as wide as this and the battery meter suffered a little because of it. Of course with an Sbrick you can make a proper display, but I think this works pretty well for a purist As you can see I still need to make a neck and a head, but the groundwork inside is ready to build that so I don't expect much problems with it (yes, I totally jinxed myself). Also, the white wheels in the tracks are temporary. I ordered grey ones from BL, which already shipped and I hope to recieve them some time next week. A little glimpse of the insides: You can also see Jeroen Ottens' awesome little microphones. Why did I used those? The regular ball pins or balls with axle would touch and block each other if both M motors run, these do not. Besides cramming in 1 batterybox, 2 IR recievers, 2 L motors and 2 M Motors I also used a gearbox based on this principle: I found this type of gearbox while looking around on the web trying to figure out what would be cool (and compact) to use in my model. No need for me to come up with my own gearbox when there are so many good ones online after all I chose this one because it meant I could always control 5-6 functions without knowing which gear was selected in the gearbox, which adds to the playability imo. I am aware there alot of Lego Wall-E's out there, ALOT. I know, I saw most of them when looking around And of course the Lego Ideas Wall-E that is incoming. Though that guy needs to explain to me how 5L tracks fit in a 10L wide body when Wall-E wants to transform into a box. I do think however I made a Wall-E that's different than most, for the simple reason it is build 90-95% from studless Technic. All others either have Technic bricks combined with Sytem bricks or are build from System bricks. It wasn't a goal to design a studless Wall-E though, it just came to be during the build and I tried to solve stuff as much as possible with studless Technic since then while still looking clean. Though I am unsure if this studless approach works for the hands, perhaps I should make them from System bricks. The hands do function like Wall-E's real hands though and can be set in fixed positions thanks to friction pins and 3L axles with stop. For the top cover I didn't want to add another layer of liftarms since it felt "too high" for the scale of the model, but I couldn't used thin liftarms either unless I wanted a swiss cheese look for the top, so I went with Syetem tiles to provide a clean smooth top. I actually wanted to make a transforming Wall-E but still have drive and moveable arms and whatnot, but I simply can't build that at this scale (*looks at all that PF blocking the places where the tracks and head would need to go in to be a Wall-E box*). Speaking of scale, I took a little bit of liberty with that. Simple example: 5L tracks, 13L wide body. Which makes technical sense to me when looking at his transformation in the movie (I watched it again for "research" before I actually started this build ). 13L wide body means 1L for the sides and 1L for inbetween the 5L tracks, those spaces are there in the movie so they are there in my model. I also wanted the rear wheels in the tracks to be a little bigger. I even considered Unimog rims, but those don't play nice with tracks. I am open for suggestions for bigger rims that play nice with tracks, though I do consider these to be ok (hence why I ordered them in grey ). Fun fact: every (and I mean EVERY!) part has been at least rebuild two times. I think I even took the rear cover apart about 8 times, the centre 3 times, arm mechanisms 4 times, tracks have been rebuild 4 times. Though the last track revision was simply to scale it up with bigger rear rims, since I had smaller ones in there first which looked too small with the rest of the model. All other revisions were basically reinforcing the structure to prevent any gear slips. I solved the last of those gear slips today and the model is very rigid now and works perfectly. Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's dark outside Hope you guys like it so far. More to come.
  17. Hello, Last summer, I build some MOC's that I haven't posted here yet, due to school. Well, here is one of them: The dodge challenger 1970! http://farm6.staticf...83caab960_z.jpg This scale model of the Dodge has following features: Remote controlled independent suspended Lights (2 pairs in front, 1 in the back) with switch hidden under the rear Rc motor for drive medium motor and hockey spring for RTC steering All pics can be found in my flickr set: Hope you like it! Best regards, Tibivi
  18. Today I present a quick MOC, that I made. To start, let me just say that I actually made my first tracked vehicle exactly one year ago from today, so I thought why not make another one, but better. It features full suspension with trailing arms connected to a hard 6L shock absorber, two pairs of LED's (1 front/1 rear) connected to a switch in the cab, as well as a strong drivetrain using 2 XL motors geared 1:1. Also the Triple A battery box is placed behind the 2 XL's. Sorry for the shortage of pictures, but as I was taking them it was snowing. I will have more pictures on my blog once I post it later today.
  19. Today I would like to began my most complex creation to date. A Caterpillar 525 Wheel Skidder: Here is what I have so far: This is the articulated joint. As you can see it has a Unimog ball joint for articulation as well as 2 mini LA's. The plan is that because this is going to be such a large vehicle I'll be using 2 M motors / 1 per LA but as if that weren't good enough, I decided to have an adjustable remote control RWD/4WD system. This transfer case is placed in between the mini LA's to save space for the crane arm motors in the rear. Also the switching will be carried out by another mini LA connected to a changeover catch which in turn will slide on a mounted axle horizontally. One more thing, I thought it was pretty funny how this one module of parts took 2 days to complete and modify, while my previous Trophy Truck model took 2 days to build altogether.
  20. The EMD trains frequent this LEGO Train Forum now and then. Of course there is the EMD E8 Santa Fe Super Chief, but others like Tearloch already made EMD's as well! Today I want to present my finished EMD E9 model: A video demo can be found here: I connected an Arduino Pro Mini to the LEGO LiPo, I also connected the normal IR receiver to the LiPo and connected the Train motor to it. B.t.w. I ran out of gray wheels so unfortunately one gray wheel. I use the small PF remote to enable / disable the Mars light / gyrolite (depending on the brand ;)) and the orange blinker. The Arduino uses a custom LEGO PF Remote receiver sketch and a typical 940nm IR receiver. The left one shows the gyrating light (2 SMD LEDs), the blink light also has a small SMD LED connected to a simple (insulated) copper wire. A peek on the inside: The IR receivers are at the right, the small one sticks out a little bit, enough to receive IR signals.
  21. This is a bit of an older MOC I did last Halloween - (it's long scrapped now) but I thought I'd share this here as well - especially for those with a small taste of the macabre. Just after building Lego's Vampyre Hearse, a new, slightly-morbid-yet-cool idea spawned in my mind; what if I build a bigger, RC version of this? At first, I wasn't quite sure what it'll end up looking like, since I couldn't figure out what to model it after - a Cadillac? a Rolls-Royce? a Lincoln? - so, I went with all three - sort of, lol. Hearse Front by Octav_spot, on Flickr What's interesting is that the headlamps are actually yellow elements, but mixed together with the blue from the LED's, it came out green. I liked the look so much, I kept it as is. Hearse Rear by Octav_spot, on Flickr The side-lamps idea came to me in the last moment - I wish I'd of made them look closer to actual lanterns (since that's what original hearse carriages had.) To my surprise, the light came out looking almost purple, which seemed strikingly accurate. Hearse Profile by Octav_spot, on Flickr Two Hearses by Octav_spot, on Flickr Just the V8 engine itself was literally half the Vampyre Hearse. I laughed. Hearse Speed by Octav_spot, on Flickr To see it in motion, here's the video. I thought the reaction from my cat was pretty funny, so I kept it in the clip Currently working on an actual Rolls Royce... just haven't decided what model year yet... In any case, enjoy!
  22. Hey all, As promissed in another topic I present you my Hot Rod: It's made out of the parts of 42000 and some other. Features: Remote drive with 2 RC motors and differential remote RTC streering with servo motor opening doors independant suspension on all wheels powered by LiPo and V2 reciever With the RC motors it actually is fast because I have kept the weight down were I could. some pics: more pics in my Flickr set: Greets Tibivi
  23. Hello! My newest mini moc is also a Tatra. My goal was to make a 8x8 813 model with realistic Tatra suspension: This was my first moc, which could be build with 1:1 scale from a paper: I always wanted to build a really small Tatra with the wheels from 8842. This wheel has a diameter of 43 mm, so the proportional width is about 11 stud. That's even not enough, too narrow, but I had success with the suspension and drivetrain in 13 stud width. The first and second axle has steering, and all axle is driven and suspended. With U-joint there is no way to build it narrower. I used 3 different shock absorbers. The first axle has harder ones to hold the weight reliable in the front. The steering mechanism only steers directly the left wheels, the right ones are steered by the 9L links: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748589 The ground clearance enables 25 mm high obstacles under the truck. Of course it can go through much bigger ones, as can be seen below in the video. The drivetrain is pretty simple Tatra like, with assimmetric left and right side: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748587 In the picture it also can be seen that the front 4 wheels are driven with a small 2L thin liftarm to prevent clacking(if it uses pins and pulley). There wasn't problem with that, in every terrain kept the front wheels the correct position. They look like the valve cover of the wheels.( I forgot to take them also in the rear wheels) Maybe from the pictures we can think that the 12 bevel gears can go out in the middle of the axles. They can't. The 2L red axles prevent that (I used strong 12 gears and loose U-joints). The suspension worked well in terrain, this Tatra doesn't carries tons of weight, stronger axles aren't necessary. The wheel travel is about 2 stud or a bit more depending of the axle. Technic inside: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748652 The steering M motor is in the front, the driving M motor is in the rear part. The M motor is powerful with 6:1 final ratio. It can be, because the weight is only 761 g. The stability surprised me. In the video can be seen some test. The aesthetics was also important for me, this one isn't a trial truck, more civil version. I had to cut the mudguards to give space for the wheels, and of course it's a bit higher than the real Tatra to have wheel travel. The front grill has a Tatra logo and some covering sticker: The on/off button is in the top of thew vehicle: If you hit the PF connector, the front LED lights will work(video). I didn't want a PF switch, and wanted to try this out. And the video with infos: If somebody needs, I can upload the building instructions.
  24. On YouTube, CamsPL / Cams posted of his yellow Lego Technic Walking & Turning Biped (W&TB) Mecha model. It uses three Power Functions (PF) Medium motors to walk and turn. More on his Flickr photoset, and on his Brickshelf Gallery (when moderated). He also made the red Walking & Riding Biped (W&RB). which uses four Power Functions M-motors to make it "ride, walk, skate, and turn" : ( ) (Flickr photoset) (Brickshelf Gallery when moderated)
  25. legotechnicblue

    R/C Unimog

    Does anybody have instructions and a parts list of how I would fully motorize the 8110 Unimog U400 using crowkillers 4wd with reverse transmission/ gearbox?