Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Power functions'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Frontpage, Forum Information and General LEGO Discussion
    • Frontpage News
    • Forum Information and Help
    • General LEGO Discussion
  • Themes
    • LEGO Licensed
    • LEGO Star Wars
    • LEGO Historic Themes
    • LEGO Action and Adventure Themes
    • LEGO Pirates
    • LEGO Sci-Fi
    • LEGO Town
    • LEGO Train Tech
    • LEGO Technic and Model Team
    • LEGO Mindstorms and Robotics
    • LEGO Scale Modeling
    • LEGO Action Figures
    • Special LEGO Themes
  • Special Interests
    • The Military Section
    • Minifig Customisation Workshop
    • LEGO Digital Designer and other digital tools
    • Brick Flicks & Comics
    • LEGO Mafia and Role-Play Games
    • LEGO Media and Gaming
  • Eurobricks Community
    • Hello! My name is...
    • LEGO Events and User Groups
    • Buy, Sell, Trade and Finds
    • Community
    • Culture & Multimedia

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)

Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?



Website URL








Special Tags 1

Special Tags 2

Special Tags 3

Special Tags 4

Special Tags 5

Special Tags 6

Country flag

Found 325 results

  1. I have submitted a new project to LEGO Cuusoo, an inductive charging system for Power Functions trains etc... The idea is that the train would stop over an inductive pad, similar to the ones available for phones etc... but tailored to fit between the rails. It could be placed out of sight in the through-sidings of a fiddle yard so that one train would run while the others charged up. I would like this to become a single LEGO piece similar in size to an IR Receiver i.e. 4x4 with a flying lead. The same coil device would be used under the track and on the train. This is the simplest possible form and probably the cheapest too. I would equip all the sidings in a fiddle yard with coils (perhaps 10 on my layout) and each train (maybe 16), so 26 coils in all. I hope each one would not cost any more than an IR Receiver. It would also have application for Technic and Mindstorms, so making the same piece work in all markets makes it most viable. Please follow the link, support, leave comments and spread the word! Thanks, Mark
  2. Hello! My newest mini moc is also a Tatra. My goal was to make a 8x8 813 model with realistic Tatra suspension: This was my first moc, which could be build with 1:1 scale from a paper: I always wanted to build a really small Tatra with the wheels from 8842. This wheel has a diameter of 43 mm, so the proportional width is about 11 stud. That's even not enough, too narrow, but I had success with the suspension and drivetrain in 13 stud width. The first and second axle has steering, and all axle is driven and suspended. With U-joint there is no way to build it narrower. I used 3 different shock absorbers. The first axle has harder ones to hold the weight reliable in the front. The steering mechanism only steers directly the left wheels, the right ones are steered by the 9L links: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748589 The ground clearance enables 25 mm high obstacles under the truck. Of course it can go through much bigger ones, as can be seen below in the video. The drivetrain is pretty simple Tatra like, with assimmetric left and right side: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748587 In the picture it also can be seen that the front 4 wheels are driven with a small 2L thin liftarm to prevent clacking(if it uses pins and pulley). There wasn't problem with that, in every terrain kept the front wheels the correct position. They look like the valve cover of the wheels.( I forgot to take them also in the rear wheels) Maybe from the pictures we can think that the 12 bevel gears can go out in the middle of the axles. They can't. The 2L red axles prevent that (I used strong 12 gears and loose U-joints). The suspension worked well in terrain, this Tatra doesn't carries tons of weight, stronger axles aren't necessary. The wheel travel is about 2 stud or a bit more depending of the axle. Technic inside: http://www.brickshel...y.cgi?i=5748652 The steering M motor is in the front, the driving M motor is in the rear part. The M motor is powerful with 6:1 final ratio. It can be, because the weight is only 761 g. The stability surprised me. In the video can be seen some test. The aesthetics was also important for me, this one isn't a trial truck, more civil version. I had to cut the mudguards to give space for the wheels, and of course it's a bit higher than the real Tatra to have wheel travel. The front grill has a Tatra logo and some covering sticker: The on/off button is in the top of thew vehicle: If you hit the PF connector, the front LED lights will work(video). I didn't want a PF switch, and wanted to try this out. And the video with infos: If somebody needs, I can upload the building instructions.
  3. jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa jjjjjjjjjjsaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
  4. I build a second version of my race car, surprisingly called RACE2. Here is a small with lots of slow motion action shots. See it break going down the stairs. :-) Building instructions and more photos are available here. What do you think?
  5. After my last truck with a two speed transmission and air lockers, I decided to try more gears in my transmission. I searched for transmission ideas and came across the regular four speed transmission. The common wisdom is that driving rings cannot handle any torque. This is accurate. I had to increase the gear reducton in the axles and step up the motor on the transmission input to reduce the torque that the transmission "felt". I also maded the linkage from the servo to the driving ring incapable of being backdriven. It still pops occasionally, but reengaging the driving rings with the servos clears it up. It also has a neutral gear and this allows it to roll after the throttle has been released. Eliminating any extra gear exchanges to improve efficiency, reducing weight, and maintaining a rigid structure for the transmission to operate within became critical. I tried to get rid of the knob gears connected to the rc buggy motors outputs, but was unsuccessful. 12t to 12t ground the gears down 20t to 20t also ground the gears down 24t to 24t crown would not fit. Caster angle on front axle is accomplished by less angle on the lower links. I tried a wider version of the LPE power unimog axle that has kingpin inclination. It worked and did not fall apart, but its turning radius was larger than a traditional steering axle and so it was discarded. It still is assembled, just not mounted on the truck. I made air lockers based off of the new 3 stud wide differential, but ended up discarding them because they added unnecessary complication. I killed several u joints on the driveshaft before I moved up to 9:1 reduction in the axle. The u joints that are installed have wax string wrapped around the ends and a small piece of heat shrink tube over that. This is a repair because all of my joints are now cracked. If a tire becomes blocked in first gear with the steering turned, this design can quickly destroy u joints in the axle. There are a couple of altered pieces. 3l bars have had a couple of mm ground off to secure the towballs on the chassis and there is a 4.5 stud axle going to the knob gear on the transmission input. Both elements could be done without. It would require some redesign though. Moving to a 9398 style suspension and increasing the wheelbase would eliminate both of these issues. I used 4l bars to secure the towballs in the axles. They fit into the back of the towball and prevent it from popping out of the lift arm. Questions, comments, concerns, relevant war stories???? v/r Andy
  6. This may have been posted already but I have come across other people searching for a remedy to adding an extra PF boogie to there existing setup. Having one PF motor will work for short length lightweight trains but most people like to run lots of rolling stock and the designs are becoming heavier with the more details being added to the design. So we need more power! You can simply add another PF Boogie, Right?! Yes and No. The additional boogie in most cases will face the opposite direction of the already installed one. This means the boogies pull in opposite directions! the simple solution to this is a switch to change polarity of the current on the new boogie. I picked up the part at Toys-R-Us. It was the Power Functions starter kit, came with a switch lights and small motor. I did this project on my latest locomotive and was pleased with the results. Fortunatly there was plenty of space in the frame to hide the switch and having the additional powered boogie allows me to hook up additional cars with little to no signs of strain or wheel slippage. Below are pics and you can refer to my Flickr page for additional pics. Feel free to add feedback or ideas to this tip. Previously I was splicing wires and soldering connections to fix this problem. This is much easier and cosmetically appealing.
  7. Greetings gang, I have decided to post a modification that I have made to my Emerald Night Locomotive that may help others. The problem I was having was with the PF XL motor and rigid train frame the EN would get stuck on dips and rises throught the track surface. This was primarily an issue going over switches or minor grades changes. So my initial plan was to remove the XL motor and build a passenger car that was equipped with motors to push the engine. I changed my mind on this one and challenged myself to incorporate the XL motor in the engine and then an additional motor in the tender along with the battery. So after the assistance of fellow enthusiast on this site and the Railbricks magazine, I created a boogie/truck to mount on the tender with minor modifications to the original tender design. Keep in mind this is still a work in progress but what I have completed thus far has made a huge difference and resolved alot of traction issues with this particular locomotive. Pictures are below feel free to copy and I am always looking for additional feedback to better a design :-) Check out my Flickr page for more pics. I also added the modification to the front rod which fixed the locking up issue and smoothed out the engines driveline. As you can see I only geared one axle on the boogie, this is due to me running out of gears and not having enough to gear the other axle. I have ordered the additional parts from bricklink and will update accordingly. I have tested this design and even with only the one axle powered it helps a whole lot. Does anyone have advice for adding weight to the tender or even the engine to further improve the traction?
  8. I built this over Xmas as a way to use up my yellow studded LEGO. Just forgot to release it! Powered by 16XL motors and an NXT
  9. Hi, hope it's ok to start a new topic about this but I searched a didn't find a suitable, current thread related solely to trains. The best PF battery threads are several years old now and are mostly geared toward Technic. I'm mulling over whether to get the 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box (US$ 50) or use the 88000 Battery Box (US$ 13 and included in many sets) and then use rechargeable batteries in that. I have a young child so I don't want to use LiPo rechargeables in 88000 (because of possible safety issues) but from what I've read, Lego has protection circuitry built into their 8878 LiPo Rechargeable Battery Box. If I go with the 88000 then those 3rd generation Eneloop NiMH rechargeables seem to be the way to go. I don't really mind swapping out batteries but they only deliver 7.2v. Apparently Lego claims that their 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box delivers 7.4v so that seems to be a selling point but is it noticeable in any way? What are your thoughts on this? What do you use for your PF trains? Do you use both 8878 and 88000 with NiMH rechargeables and do you notice any performance differences between the two? Personally I'm not planning on having any monster-long trains or hills but who knows what the future has in store? Ok, thanks in advance, Joe
  10. Hello! In January 2013 I built this ~ 1:16 Peterbilt 379. The truck is 540 mm long, weights 2185 g (with trailer: 3413 g). The trailer is 690 mm long. Functions: remote controlled driving, steering, gear change(1 - 4), turn signals. The truck has a classic ladder chassis, rigid enough to pick it up by holding in the middle with one hand. It was very important to me to be realistic, every axle has leaf springs - a single axle is used as spring: In the rear axles, the suspension is rigid and strong enough to hold and drive with a 2 kg weight. Besides the leaf springs, the rear axles have links, they can equalize in light terrain. There is two XL motor at the front of the drivetrain, with separate IR receiver for more power(I don't have V2 yet). On Xl motor is under the hood, another one in is in the sleeping cabin. Then we can see the four speed gearbox: . With this you can change gear fully comfortable. After the gearbox there is a spline shaft: . Inside there isn't a lot of space, and it's full with PF components. One AA battery box, 2 XL motor, 5M motor, 4 IR receiver, 3 PF switch, 3 PF led, an some converter cable are built in. I put a black sticker near to the windscreen to cover them(the Peterbilt logo is my own "painting"): The turn signals also work, with two leds on each side(in the rear bumper and on the cabin door). In the video below you can see it. The working method is simple: one M motor turns a white 24z gear, which enables the led to light with the PF switch. You can adjust very precisely the limit state with the 3L bley axle: It took me for a while to find out, because I need a small turning light operator which fits in the sleeping cabin, where was a very limited space after the gearbox and other parts. The front lights are also working. Everything can be opened(video: from 2:58). Ok, the mudguards aren't together with the bonnet, but I can't do it other. I built in some engine imitation(I know, the real one has different - L6 -, but this can be ~ a V8): It's a trailer truck with this trailer: This one also has an Ir receiver, so the coupling can be full remotely. The support legs can lower/rise the trailer: The suspnesion is adjustable on both axles. The video shows it well from 4:20. You can put even 5 kg of load over the axles. The truck's rear axles also can hol 2 kg, so the total load can be maximum 7 kg. With this, the camion's total wight is more than 10 kg. With this load, it can go in every gear, but it's in 4th of course very weak. In second gear it performs quite well, 0,27 km/h(with 7kg load). Of course, with the full load it can go only on relatively flat surface. The adjustment of suspension can be done with these racks: Without load and trailer, maximum speed is 1,1 km/h, with trailer and 2 kg load is 0,5 km/h in fourth gear. The video: Hope you like it.
  11. Zerobricks


    So after a week of tinckering and improviments on the new portal hub assembly I give you the Titan! For now I have only these 2 pictures, but more will follow soon: As you can see, its powered by 4 XL motors, each wheel has one geared down 5x, giving it teh highest total torque in any of my models. The motors are also structual parts, holding the axles together. For steering there is a mini LA for each axle, capable of steering angle of 30 degrees. Due to the way axles are built I wasnt able to use the 4 parallel links to stop the axles from swaying side to side, but instead used a small panhrod. Suspension allows for a total of some 60 degrees of flex and even though I used the hardest springs, its still pretty soft. I will give more info tommorow when I eill record the Titan in action. Cheers!
  12. On YouTube, CamsPL / Cams posted of his yellow Lego Technic Walking & Turning Biped (W&TB) Mecha model. It uses three Power Functions (PF) Medium motors to walk and turn. More on his Flickr photoset, and on his Brickshelf Gallery (when moderated). He also made the red Walking & Riding Biped (W&RB). which uses four Power Functions M-motors to make it "ride, walk, skate, and turn" : ( ) (Flickr photoset) (Brickshelf Gallery when moderated)
  13. Zerobricks

    Dump truck

    Here's my new rather simple MOC. Because doing a simple dump truck is well....simple, I decided to spice things up by adding suspension and using only 2 motors to do 3 functions. So how can you use 2 motors for three functions? The answer is rather simple. I used a differential connected to steering system. As soon as the steering rack reaches its maximum position, the power is diverted to the LA, which lifts the bed. In order to make sure that the steering will always work before the LA i Used some friction pins parallel to the LA functions, to make sure the differential will always steer first. The brown gears are from the drive motor. The red ones are froms teering motor. The green diff splits the power where it is needed. After building this central gear system, there was another problem to solve. The LA is stuated in such manner, simply pushing agaisnt the bed would be very inefficient when trying to lift heavy loads. After some trial and error i came up with this special linkage, which follows the circular path of the bed, therebye helping it lift, instead of just pushing against it. The LA in green pushes the brown link, which in turns lifts the bed. The small blue and yellow links are used to make the brown link follow a certain path in which it not only pushes, but also lifts the bed, therebye creating more force. After adding a tiltable cab, battery box and suspension the truck was done: I used independent suspension for first and rear axle, whilethe second driveaxle uses double tyres and live axle suspension. The second axle is also configured in such way to carry most of the rear weight. The cab can be lifted to reveal the receiver. And a short video of the truck in action: All in all its a nifty little truck and very fun to drive arround and dump stuff out, especially bricks. Also by just using 2 motors and only one IR channel, this allows for more RC models to be driven at once like on exhibitions, etc,... I also made the model in LDD if anyone is interested: http://www.brickshel...ruck/dumper.lxf P.s. MOD its dump truck, not Sump truck, please correct the topic name.
  14. On his "Sheepo's Garage" website, Sheepo posted Building Instructions for his Lego Technic Remote Controllers. The Power Functions controllers are comfortable to hold, and are versatile. He's counting the number of downloads, so go there for the PDF file! Thanks for sharing, Sheepo! The instructions were made by him and Jurgen Krooshoop.
  15. Hi all, I have created building instructions for a remotely controlled car and my girlfriend tested them. She says they're really good Although I primarily created the instructions so I could rebuild the model later, I figured it would do no harm to share them here as well. You can download both the LDraw model file and the PDF building instructions. If you have any questions I'll be glad to answer.
  16. RoxYourBlox

    Tall Tower

    Tall Tower flickr set ~ .lxf file Inspirations: The Westin Bonaventure Hotel Galtier Plaza Nils Hasselmo Hall Until next time!
  17. MizFinn

    Emerald Night 10194

    How do I use the power functions remote and motor? My emerald night train is built but I cannot get it to work. I can hear the motor running and the lights are on but it is not moving. Please help!
  18. Tamas Juhasz

    Micro RC truck

    I uploaded my smallest truck few days ago: Folder: My purpose was a very small trailer truck with remote control. The PF RC system rquired the trailer, in the tractor truck there is only space for one micromotor and the suspension. Total length is 42 stud, width is 5 stud in the truck, 6 in the trailer. The trailer's height is 10 stud at maximum. One old 71427 motor drives the rear wheel of the truck with universal joint: Then, 6 of the 12 tooth bevel gears make connection with the rear axle: The steering is done with micromotor. There is 4 functions in this moc: 1 driving 2 steering 3 Led lights in the back 4 suspension There is one receiver for the leds, so they(orange and red) can be controlled individually: Except the truck's driven axle, all axle has suspension. Front: Trailer - the red suspension parts are from the city theme, I like these small live axles, they are perfect for here: The most tricky part was the tractor truck of course. Fortunately I have two large red doors from an old set, so I could do the truck with this looking: I know that the wheels are a bit small for this body, but who cares. If we take a look at this( ), then it's not so big. The trailer is full with PF parts. From the front part there are: 71427 motor - AAA battery box - two PF receivers - leds. The few metallic silver grill plates cover the receiver's infra parts, so you can't see them, but the communication between them and the remote controller is still good: For the control the 8879 remote control is recommended, as can be seen in this video: Hope you like it.
  19. Zerobricks

    Walking excavator

    After completing the autopump i realized it would be very usefull in a construction equipement. But i wanted to build omething special, unlike the usual classic machines. This is why I chose a walking excavator type of a vehicle. To lift and tilt its legs I used pneumatics, because they are better in routing tubes over the complex joints on which the machine rests. For operation of the arm I chose LA's due to their ability to accurately move loads with little jerking. So here's the excavator nice and tightly folded. The legs are spread and the boom begins to lift: The four legs are than lowered therebye lifting the whole excavator up some 10 cm: As you can see each of the tracks has its own M motor, the total number of motors being 11, all M type: Feeding on some bricks: And spewing them out: The underside of the bottom showing the two autopmups used to lower and spread the legs: And the video of excavator in action: All in all I am quite pleased with the model, especially the pneumatic side of it. Its really fun to play with it, lift it up and dig out the bricks. There are some things bothering me though: The legs bend too much sideways The speed of the superstructure is a bit fast Pneumatics are unstable unless in maximum lowest or highest position Long wheel base makes skid steering hard What'ya all think?
  20. Is it possible to control PF motors using a mobile phone with appropriate application? Is there already some solution? I have found, that there are some audio jack based IR transmitters (like this) that can turn even a mobile without IR port into a IR controller. PF receivers operate at 38kHz. Principle of these audio based IR transmitters is simple - it is enough to play a proper audio file. Application should be able to generate proper audio signals based on the controls touched by the user on the mobile screen. From this point of view also the application is quite simple, once proper signals are known (in extreme case they can be recorded from the original PF transmitter). Does it make sense? Will it work? Or is there a better solution? That audio jack based transmitter contains actually only two IR diodes and some resistor to protect them. From this point of view, they are highly overpriced.
  21. Hi everyone. I'm new to eurobricks and before the presentation of my new MOC that is going to be finished in weeks, i want to show you some of my previous models. I think that describing all of the creations doesn't make sense, so I will show you only my best (In my opinion) MOCs: My latest creation - CAT 963D crawler loader. Very simple construction, just 4 PF M motors, 2 IR receivers, rechargeable battery box, some gears and stuff. But I really like this model, it works smoothly and it's a big fun playing with it. (Image is a link to the gallery) _________________________________________________________ Another model, Liebherr HS-855 dragline excavator. Big model, difficult to build. But it worked quite good. It was hard to learn how to dig with it :) It had 7 motors inside, 2 battery boxes and 3 IR receivers. Only cabin lifting wasn't remote controlled. (Image is a link to the gallery) _____________________________________________________________ Another yellow machine :) Liebherr LTM 1050 mobile crane. My favourite one. The mechanics of the model were very complicated, but as I remember, everything worked quite good. 7 PF motors, 3 IR receivers, battery box, some pneumatic stuff. (Image is a link to the gallery) ______________________________________________________________ In my gallery there are more models, but describing all of them here doesn't make sense. So, here is my gallery: Brickshelf Flickr And the YouTube channel: Youtube (make sure to subscribe to be up-to-date with my new videos ) If you have any questions - feel free to ask! PS. Is it posible to embed a YT video?
  22. Hi Everyone, Many PF users would be familiar with this battery box: Pro's : Takes AA batteries (6xAA should last longer than 6xAAA) Cheap (about 1/3 to 1/4 of the price of the AAA 8x4x4 version) I seem to have lots of spares Cons: Awkward shape Too large to fit in the 'compartment' section of most trains Not many studs Anyway, as I had some of these battery boxes sitting around, and I wanted to convert my: 7740 12V to PF; and 4511 9V to PF using the 9V motor with PF attachment, I have made the following attempts and shown the approach below with some pictures. Please take note.... I'm not suggesting this is better or even equivalent to using the AAA or rechargeable battery box...... ....just something I have done to make use of my AA battery boxes . Hopefully it might be useful to someone !! 4511: World City High Speed Train New Carriage: Tha AA battery box revealed: Held in place by four pins in each end (and gravity): And the flawless (get it? ) reason this battery fits : 7740: Inter-City Passenger Train I'm not as pleased with the look of this one - which is a bit over utilitarian....but hey...on a practical level it does the job !! Roof is modified in the front for the IR receiver and in the rear for the protrusion of the battery: The switch is integrated into the pantograph, which slides into the three different positions (camera also shows my 1x6 black plate in need of a good clean ): Removal is easy enough: From the rear: All the best. Please feel free to fire any questions at me. I have the lights working in the 4511 and my next project is to do the equivalent in the 7740. Cheers LLL
  23. Hi Guys A few days I got my self a 9398 set for only 989dkk(133 euros) in Bilka(a major supermarkedet store in DK). Anyway after I got home, I didn't play with the motors as I normaly would mainly because I simply wanted to build the 4x4 offroader. But after I had assembled the 2/3 of the set, I got some batteries in it, and fired it up. Thats when I got a bit annoyed/shocked/scared to notices that the front motor sounds much louder than the other motor. It some kind of of squick sound that, aint healty when compared to the other. Have anybody else notices different noises from the PF L Motor?
  24. Thanks to those on this site who helped answer my queries about Power Functions : ) I've now finished the FIAT 682/RN2 Bartoletti. It's currently running one battery box powering 2 XLs and 1 Medium through 1 IR Receiver, but when it gets some race cars the whole setup will be doubled (except the steering the motor). A couple of pics are below - more on MOCpages at this address: Comments welcomed : )
  25. Well, here we are. This is my latest truck, and I call it, due to the color, the Pumpkinator. All eight wheels are driven, and the front four steer. Drive is via one XL motor, geared down roughly nine to one. The axles are loosley inspired by a design from Zblj, and are very tough, except for the third axle, which has grinding gears. Suspension travel is not a whole lot, but it does the job, and is fairly compact. This truck is actually a project I was making for school, and was originally going to be an Oshkosh PLS truck, although this did not pan out due to time constraints. I built this thing in only 6 hours! Anyway, I got a good grade, which was a good thing . I may or may not make instructions, and a video. Would anybody want either of those? Anyway, on to the pictures, and some additional details. The side views, showing the roll cage (made out of 32l axles), the suboptimal location of the battery boxes, and the spare tires. The underside view, showing the drive axles, the drive motor, and the suspension setup, which is 4 link. A closeup of the rear 2 axles, showing the mechanics. The connection to the third axle is rather weak, and the gearing skips. However, it only does this on extreme slopes. The front axles. This was the hardest part to make. The steering motor. The cabin has no interior, as it was literally an eleventh hour addition. The connection from the front motor to the steering axle. The steering clutch sometimes balks, so that's goin to be redesigned. The top of the suspension, which is mostly identical for all axles. Front view with the lights on. Rear view with the lights on. The very front, but it's not actually based on any Mercedes... Suspension travel. Upper limits. Enjoy, and keep on building!