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Found 98 results

  1. Pelzer117

    (9V) RED train motor

    Hi everyone, I know I am asking for a "non existing" part, but I want to create a collective thread for this topic. Maybe someone will find a way.. I am not sure any more because in realitiy this part should not exist, but I can swear that somewhere I saw a german loco (BR 51 or 53) with RED side covers for the 9V motor. Sadly the only thing I found was a "dark red" or "brown" version, what is in fact on a chinese (AUSINI) train. But it depends on the photos. At some pictures it looks like more red then brown: Interesting is the video, where the motor is dyed (not painted), maybe this could be a way to "create" a red train motor. 9V Red Train Motor (dyed) I also thought about to convert a 12V motor into a 9V or PF motor (because of the red cover of the 12V). Did someone tried this out?
  2. Great Ball Contraption (GBC) - General Discussion and Index This is a topic used for GBC general conversation, questions, hints, tips, etc. This first post will be used to maintain an Index of GBCs here on Eurobricks or other websites. Eurobricks topics LEGO GBC 8 + Building Instructions (5 modules - 2 motors) New Akiyuki GBC Instruction Index Other sources Greatballcontraption.com
  3. If you remember those little clockwork robots, which used to be toys and are now prized collection articles, than you will surely recognize my representation! I've been working on this for some time now and I'm proud to say that this robot walks as well as the real thing! It uses two pullback motors, a couple cogs (gears) and 623 LEGO elements to achieve (I only hope you agree ) both good looks and great functionality. The mechanism with the incorporated motors is made to fit exactly into the case and the case comes off all in one piece (I like my modularity). The mechanism for the legs is the most simple thing ever but making it was as complicated as any of my larger MOCs, because balance played such a vital role in all of it. You can still see it wobble as it walks (I find the wobble quite indearing though ) and a lot of work went into keeping it from falling when it does. I like to think this is my best work yet, so I hope you like it just as much enjoy!!! My Flickr gallery
  4. Hi All, It's been awhile since my last post, so I thought it was time I made another. I have been in receipt of a BB12VB-RED recently! Ahem, probably more like a year or so ago. As you can see from the photos, one of the pickups is very damaged… Another Eurobrick member, Alainneke, had already kindly made some replacements out of brass… I had sent him the diagrams of the pickups in AutoCAD, and extremely excellent reproductions were sent as a test in return. At the time I’d only opened my 'teenaged' black motor, as seen in photos, and the new brass pickup studs were supposed to be destined for it… The RED 12V motor is very, very rare, I have held back on using the replacement pickups until now… I am glad I have waited though, my apologies Alainneke! After reading VGO’s suggestion in post http://www.eurobrick...pic=50345&st=25, post #28, I tried the idea out on a black motor and it moved during the operation and I snapped a tab off the end, see pic. So I decided to build a jig out of Lego to hold the motor. The top part of my jig is real Lego, while the bottom is entirely made of Fako(Fake Lego) due to my needing to augment some of the pieces to fit the underside of the motor and wheels. I used MEK(Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone) to ‘weld’ the pieces together, along with some small strips of a smooth(no embossed numbers) credit type card, see pics. Okay, My advice is that you try and run a razor blade around the circumference of the bottom of the motor, hopefully using a ‘jig’ like shown. I do mean “Razor blade” as a “Stanley” knife blade will do the damage that I have shown in my earlier openings, try a ‘BIC single blade’… Making and using a ‘BIC’ single razor blade… I used the razor whilst the motor was in the top part of the jig. Once in the jig, use a 2.5mm rod/nail and hammer in both power plug holes, to gently persuade the bottom to come loose on either side. Seat partially opened motor on the ‘bottom’ part of the jig, and use the remainder of the credit/shopping card to gently hammer down on the wheel axle to pry the last of the plastic welds apart. The motor is now broken open… Here are some pics of the open casing with the old and new pickups, I will update the post after I have cleaned up the motor parts. If for whatever reason you need to take a wheel off, I.e. for cleaning excessive hair/crud in sleeve bearing, then you start by removing the cir-clip next to the sleeve bearing. Move bearing nearer to gear cog, then gently pries the cylindrical spring clip out of the wheel in the same area as the hole in the wheel. When you're cleaning the parts inside, be careful with the metal part 'A'. There are two small hardened steel discs that sit either end of the spindle, only the dirty grease is holding them in.... Now it's time for reassembly and re-greasing...
  5. Terrasher

    Motorizing Fairground Sets

    Hi, I don't own any of the fairground sets, but I'll be adding a couple to my collection pretty soon and want to motorize them. I own the power functions battery boxes that are better suited for Technic sets. Is there a difference between this battery box and the system one that shows up in the new Rollercoaster video? I don't know if the speed of the motors will be different depending on what battery box is used.
  6. This hover bike was built by Squidman in 2009 as part of payment for a debt to the Skull Twins, and was one of two nearly identical space hogs. The second bike had an inverted color scheme with mostly white instead of black and was called Ivory. The bike seen in this post is called Ebony, and is the last of it's kind, as the other skull twin and his bikes were swallowed by a black hole while trying to outrun the Space Police III forces around seven years ago. The bikes features two laser weapons around the skull ornament on the nose. This three-engine hover cycle is one of the fastest bikes in the Milky Way, seconded only to legendary "Rewind 3", which went so fast it broke the time barrier. So far, it hasn't showed up again, but that hasn't stopped bookies from taking bets stretching back past the last 100 years to next millennium (or two). One of the mysterious Skull Twins... no-one knows what's under the mask, with some saying that he has no face, just soul-piercing, glowing red eyes. The Ebony bike and it's Skull helmeted driver left our galaxy for the Andromeda galaxy due to law enforcement pressure in 2011, and upon his return in 2018 found the galaxy a much darker, more sinister place with the Space police IV dictatorship in place. Due to his disappearance in 2011, this skull twin was declared dead a long time ago and is using this legal void to commit a great many crimes. (The bike was remade into it's current form using only parts from the set, with the addition of the skull twin helmet, head, dark gray pants, a 2 x 2 DBG tile, and a 1 x 2 black plate. This list obviously does not include the white mini-figure stand! ) As usual, comments, questions and complaints are always welcome!
  7. Count Sepulchure

    A turkey that loved turkey

    Hello, everyone! The turkey body piece. What does one use it for? I came up with a character using only 4 pieces. Mr. Reykut is pleased to meet you! He is already greasy in anticipation of what's to come! And he sure loves turkey! "Follow me, for we shall head for the kitchen!!" "Welcome to my place, do make yourselves comfortable." "The star of today's show - the turkey!!" "Man am I going to enjoy this... I added some extra grease today!" "Please don't mind me, housekeeping ain't doing itself, you know..." "I always say that the floor should be as shiny as a freshly-roasted turkey..." "About time to turn it over. I can smell the juicy meat" "Let's grill this turkey for good!!!!!" "Yeeeaaaahhh, baby!!" And now - for some proper action!! "Nothing beats a large greasy turkey! Gravy is for wimps, enjoy the meat!!" "Shall we go for some more?" Thank you for your attention! x)
  8. Motor-brain Droid Brothers are: Xtra Large Motor - the eldest brother Large Motor - the second brother Medium Motor - the youngest brother Simple, but Ingenious. Ugly, but Close. A worm drive is a gear arrangement in which a worm (screw) meshes with a worm gear (aspur gear). A worm drive can reduce rotational speed or transmithigher torque. One of the major advantages of worm gear drive units are that they can transfer motion in 90 degrees. The gear ratio is: 1 to teeth of the worm wheel The direction of transmission is not reversible due to the greater friction involved between the worm and worm-wheel. Worm gear configurations in which the gear cannot drive the worm are called self-locking. The eldest brother - Xtra Large Motor-brain The second brother - Large Motor-brain The youngest brother - Medium Large Motor-brain Power - Battery and its tray, Worm Hand and Tummy - Worm gear Feet - Each foot has 4 wheels Back - Antenna and pigtail Profile - Crankshaft and Link Mechanism drive Arms and Legs Three brothers - Red, Blue and Yellow Welcome to Camellia Café http://www.camellia.xin
  9. Hello everybody, On Page 5 of this brochure from 1991, it is mentioned: http://worldbricks.com/en/catalog-year/1990/catalogs-1991/1991-lego-catalog-2-en-fr-nl.html For owners of 12V Lego trains, a special 12V train brochure is available. Please contact Lego Spares service. Aux utilisateurs de trains Lego 12V: Réclamez la brochure special "trains 12V" a Lego S. A. ... Please let me know if I can find in internet and download the special 12v train brochures from 1991, 1992, 1993 (or even from 1990, 1989, 1988). Otherwise, iIf you have them, I really appreciate if you can scan them or just let me know, so that I can find a way to borrow them from me, or even buy them. This is for a longterm project for improving the current inventory of 12v and 4.5V trains on bricklink. One concern is the service bag 5086, which is declared on bricklink from 1993, but I am not sure. I cannot find it in any brochure available online! Cheers
  10. (Can't find the forum relating to PF components. Since it is about the Carousel, I guess it could be placed in the Town forum) Anyway, for the 10257 Carousel, Lego recommends the M-Motor. My M-Motor from July 2017 has already become weaker and worn out! I guess it is not robust enough. Has anyone tried the L-Motor with the set? The video shows the trouble I have.
  11. hi all i have a XL motor from the volvo loader set which i used in the invisible lift gbc but after using it, the motor only runs in one direction now and needs a push to get it going? is there anything i can do?
  12. Here's my entry model for the TC13 competition: It was inspired by the real life Tesla roadster 2 both aesthetically and mechanically. The model uses 3 pullback motors in the following configuration: As you can see the rear two pullback motors power the wheel directly for best possible acceleration. BUT the front pullback motor is geared up. This additonal gearing gives the model a higher top speed and a greater range, which is a technique I have yet to see on any other pullback cars. Around 30 panels were used to give the car it's very smooth, organic shape. Notice the small yellow rubber band used to keep the front part tightly together: There is enough room in the back of the cabin to fit two or three small human beings: The rear boasts a difusor and a small spoiler in the back, just like the real thing: While this is one of my smalles models to date, I am very pleased with how it turned out. The shapes are very smooth and organic and the fact the car drives mere milimeters above ground, give it a very sporty feeling. Video coming as soon as I find enough space to run it
  13. I've searched for an answer to this for a long time, and I'm hoping I can get some help here. I'm working on a Technic car that uses PF motors to be a mobile vehicle. However, I've found time and time again that the model ends up being just too slow for my liking (if anyone has owned the 4x4 Crawler set, you know what I mean by slow). I own 2 L-Motors, 5 M-Motors, 1 XL-Motor. My question is: How do I make the model have faster speed without it looking like a skeleton car, and also, does adding additional motors increase power? For example, if I gear together 4 M-Motors so that they all end up on one drive axle, is their power combined?
  14. So, good haul at Christmas this year for me. Among other sets, I was given 60051. While I never would have gone out to buy that set myself, now that I have it, I want to get a second one to make into three additional coaches. This would make this set 6 car-bodies including the locomotive. Have any of you done this and added a second motor? I'm wondering if it makes sense to modify the locomotive to take the second motor or run PF extension wires and have the 2nd motor at the end of the train. What are your thoughts of having one motor at the front and the other at the end so one pulls and the other pushes? What has the experience been of one motor pulling at the front and the other motor pushing at the rear? Thanks
  15. Strandbeest is designed by Theodorus Gerardus Jozef who is a great Dutch artist. Today I make my droid with Strandbeest's legs. Each leg in this contraption has 11 movable rods and 2 fixed rods which form 8 joints. Camellia Servo Strandbeest droid model is controlled by CAPPUCCINO controller with ARM technology. Each body part of this droid has an individual LEGO motor to drive its moving speed, distance, time and direction. As 8 LEGO motors are used, droid's head, body, left leg, right leg, left arm, right arm, left hand and right hand are able to be controlled cooperatively! Left and right by two motors, each has 2 front and 2 rear legs. Upper body Left arm Right arm Left hand Right hand Head and eyes, One eye is a camera to record its view. Waist Back 40th LEGO Technic nameplate 1977-2007 Just make you own droid at home. Welcome to Camellia Café
  16. Camellia Café presents a special designed SERVO JEEP model being controlled by Camellia Café Servo motor controller with ARM technology. ' This JEEP is a Full time or Part time four wheel drive car with shrink function and Servo running model. Front wheels and rear wheels are driven by two individual LEGO motors. When both motors are active, it is a full time four wheel drive car. When either is active, it is a part time four wheel drive car. The speed can be adjusted in a large range and with good accuracy via our motor controller. With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. When using a mobile phone and Camellia JEEP APP, your children could control SERVO JEEP remotely. No matter turning, running back or running uphill, SERVO JEEP is mobile and powerful. In the SERVO mode, SERVO JEEP can run in a precise distance at a preset value. This plays a key role in autopilot and auto parking. The steering motor can be controlled with 5 degrees at minimum. Front differential and rear differential are used. Front wheels driven motor and rear wheels driven motor. Front wheels use double wishbone suspension. Steering system With an addition motor, the car body is able to shrink for easy parking, and extend to get spacious inner space. 40th LEGO Technic nameplate. Without car cover cloth. The car body cover. Open the front cover to see the front engine. Front engine - 6 cylinders V type. Rear engine - 2 cylinders V type. Rear of JEEP. Car lights: Daytime running light, Foglight, High beam and Red lights for break. Please enjoy Camellia Café servo motor controller and drive SERVO JEEP model. And make you own car at home. http://www.camellia.xin/models/servojeep.html
  17. Hi there, I've noticed whilst testing 'Electric Technic Motor 9V Geared 480rpm' (47154) http://peeron.com/inv/parts/47154, it was making a strange buzzing noise whilst going both clockwise and anti-clockwise. Could this mean one or more of the internal gears are failing? Thankfully, there are four thin screws on the bottom which allow the motor to be taken apart. Are replacement gears obtainable? If not, then I have to have them either 3D Printed or cast in a silicone mold. Thanks.
  18. Lego Technic Motor Boat Lego Technic Motor Boat Lego Technic Motor Boat Lego Technic Motor Boat
  19. Hi, I noticed there are not a ton of pullbacks on this site, so here is mine: I tried to make it like a official Lego set, and color vomit. If it was a set I would include barriers like in this picture. instructions: https://bricksafe.com/pages/aventador2014/barrier-racer-
  20. To all LEGO train automation enthusiasts, This is a short clip of the final version of our LEGO compatible track switch motor. It has a digital servo embedded in a 3D printed housing. This is a 'plug & play' solution: the motor is strong enough that it doesn't require any modification of the switch (you don't need to open the switch and remove the notch to reduce the force needed to flip it). I also added a picture of the back side so you can see how it can fit onto a LEGO® switch. The housing is made in a custom dark bluish gray ABS filament that matches the LEGO® tracks. The motor has a 6 by 6 stud footprint and it's 2 bricks + 2 plates high. We'll be making controllers for these motors as well, so you can connect them to your PC. However, the motors are fully Arduino compatible, so you can integrate them in you own DIY control system. What do you think ? We're working on a full range of automation gadgets for LEGO trains. What other automation challenges would you like to see solved ?
  21. Not really, but I found out that the motors in my GX EV3 peform better in IR Control mode than how they do in my program, and I believe that it is because the motor power is different. Each block in the EV3 programming software that moves the motors has a digit for how much power each motor should have. I'm wondering what this digit is in IR Control mode, because the motors act much better in this mode than how the do in the program. If anyone here knows the power of the motors when the EV3 brick is in this mode, please reply as soon as possible. It would be very appreciated.
  22. Sorry if this goes somewhere else, but I have a question for buggy motor owners. Do you think $100 is a good price for 2 buggy motors, a rc unit, controller, rc unit suspension, and cables, is a good price? And @mocbuild101, @Marxpek, @jam8280, and @TechnicSummse, you may have a new challenger soon... If I get the lot...
  23. This is an early prototype of a 12V style button to control our track switch motors. The button has all the hardware it needs to control the motors, it just needs a 5V power supply (from a brick we're still working on). It has 2 LEDs to indicate the state of the button (the LED on the left is not positioned properly in the prototype and doesn't show in the video). The LEDs are in a hollow stud so you can customize the color by adding a transparent brick. There are 4 studs in between the LEDs so you can add a tile with a label to mark the button so you know what it controls. There are power connectors on the side of the buttons, so if you connect them side by side they can power each other. We're planning on making similar button for the traffic lights, decouplers, etc. For those of you who prefer not to use a computer or want to build a control panel in bricks, is this an approach that would work for you ?
  24. Since i cant testdrive my newest speedracer because of the rainy weather, i decided to clean up my "in progress moc corner" and found this: A as small as possible electric doubleswitch, wich you can use, to control 2 different motors with the same RC output. You can simply select wich one you wanna use. At the same time you can use it to control a gearbox, or output-selector, as you can see in the video. The idea to invent this, was, to realise as much functions as possible in a rc-model, with a limited amount of receivers (in my case just 1 RC-unit). You can use the auxilary output of the RC-unit to control the micromotor, and thus switch between 2 different functions ( for example drive and a pneumatic compressor). The output-selector can be used, to switch for example a servormotors output between steering and pneumatic-switch. "Why so complicated, you could just use the auxilary output for the compressor" -> well... you could do that and beeing limited to the auxilary current limits (~500mA). Also you wont have the gearbox/output-selector then ;) While using this, you can power your compressor (or what ever you want) with the "unlimited" power of the RC-units buggy-motor-output. AND fine-controll it with the 3-step forward, 3-step-reverse-control. It is also possible to control this with the RC-units steering output instead of the micromotor... like that you still have the auxillary-output free for use. How it works: The trick here, is to angle the 2 switches axles by 60 degres (45 would be perfect, but this is ok ;)). But you need to try the right 60 degres angle... only 1 position works, otherwhise you will have 1 motor switched on in one position, and 2 motors beeing on in the other position. The gearbox/ output-selector in the video can be simplified a lot, this is just to show, how it could work. I am pretty sure, there are some more things you could do with it... also with regular power functions ;)
  25. This building was originally the Brick City Depot Winter Village - Victorian House model, while the car is inspired by Carl Greatrix's Rolls Royce Phantom Mk II, remade to look like a MOON motor car from around the mid-1920's. I removed the original house model's snow-and-sloped-plate roof, added a back half with stairs to the upper story, plus a revamped color scheme from medium blue and white to reddish brown, green, and white. Their is even a new front porch for lazy Summer days. The model is of the swing open type, complete with locking Technic pin to keep the model closed. The rear of the model features the chimney flue. The inside of the model features most of my standard details, such as a stove (which is supposed to look like it's hooked into the chimney), couch, vintage phonograph, table with lamp, curio cabinet, and twin-size bed. I have even included a grandfather clock to complete the early 1920's look. This car was originally a Rolls Royce Phantom Mark-II that got transformed into a MOON Touring car. (no, the the jalopy from the Apollo Moon missions, but a vehicle built in St. Louis, Missouri by the Moon Motor Car company) once I realized how close they were to each other in style cues. I guess I did the usual car building process backwards: build the car, then find a real life counterpart, instead pf building the car off a specific type. The rear of the car features the spare tire and license plate. This vehicle can seat one driver mini-figure. The LDD file for both car and house is available here. Comments, Questions & Complaints are always welcome!