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About MangaNOID

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  1. MangaNOID

    Limited Technic Reviews

    WHen I’m interested in purchasing an older set (I think sets mature over time somehow) I always look for eurobricks review to peruse. A good written review with photos like yours are very intimate and satisfying and, well they make me want to buy sets. I wasn’t that interested in the landrover right now, but you photos are changing my mind! videos are great but I’ll always enjoy a written review with great photos more
  2. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    Yep well spotted. So the half stud gears for reverse do indeed ‘slop’ about at the moment, but I will try and hide another of those clutch sliders to the reverse axle and that should lock it in neutral or engaged position. The rest of the ‘gearbox’ works really well so far. And yes gearbox squished in front of shifter (which is almost as big as the gearbox itself) maybe I could move the gearstick back 3 studs to accommodate your gearbox but that would look visually strange for having the shifter so close to the seats, still deciding though, it’s a close call on what I want from this model. so compromises/choices unfortunately. We got to make them I guess and I suppose a ‘working’ gear box might not be that important to me if I have to choose. I know that’s almost heresy to a lot of you as gearboxes seem quite popular here
  3. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    Mmm, that’s quite clever! I am not a gearbox guy Its obviously little different from a real gearbox but about as close as could be? It is 3 studs longer of course using the newer gear changers. I’m not sure I have the capacity to re build this into the model. Trying to keep the gear lever in the same spot. And not over load the look of the model. I mean really it took me more time to work out how your gearbox worked than you took to make it! And it took me 2 weeks to make a gearbox that doesn’t change gear I’ll play around with it though for sure, thank you! Otherwise its just something else to add to the list of un-used help from others
  4. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    fake gearbox. I spent the last couple weeks trying to build a gearbox but didn't want an overbearing (in size) box that didn't sit in the right place in the car and didn't operate somewhat like a real 4 speed box so I built a fake gearbox that kind of simulates a real 4 speed box with reverse. Fake meaning that when a gear changes, no ratio changes are made to the output, i.e. same ratio output in every gear. but in doing this I am able to have a H pattern shifter simulated in the (almost) correct spot in the car (out by 1 stud) it works really well and glad I can have that simulated in the model rather than gear ratio changes which is perhaps not so playable in a manual model. Below is a better way to see it. The gear stick is held in place by the ball that squishes between liftarms. 1st and 2nd gear is the yellow. 3rd and 4th is purple and green is reverse. All gear function will be in the correct 'H' pattern for each 'gear' like in the real 240z because of the way the shifter gear lever pivots from where the ball is. Once in a gear the shifter is unable to accidentally slide into another gear. Very happy with this design and compromise over a 'real' LEGO gearbox I also want to keep this as visible as possible (its Technic right) so hopefully, depending on structural integrity, this will somewhat be visible through the transmission tunnel through the window of the model to see how the gears change. also managed to secure the engine in place on a lean like the real engine. and managed some 70's style vinyl looking (?) seats.
  5. MangaNOID

    Instructions: Paper vs. Digital

    Yes but renewables won’t capture and store carbon like paper does if the paper is kept in a stable environment. Yes but once the paper has been composted then the carbon escapes back to the atmosphere. Paper, books, libraries, it’s all carbon capture if stored in stable environment. Replant more trees and store them too. We know this. It’s taking the concept a bit too extreme perhaps by saying how useful LEGO paper instructions are in carbon capture, but it plays its part more than electronics ever will, especially if the energy for making the paper instructions come from renewables.
  6. MangaNOID

    Instructions: Paper vs. Digital

    Another bonus for paper instructions, is that the instructions for LEGO usually get kept for as long as the LEGO which is a long time, so it’s kind of carbon capture which won’t happen through digital media.
  7. MangaNOID

    Instructions: Paper vs. Digital

    I love the paper instructions i would like to see more compressed instructions though. mostly for the technic line or UCS etc where there is usually an older audience. This would half the paper production and IMO increase build enjoyability/ with difficulty. Following instructions is all too easy at the moment which for me, and no doubt most turns me off official set building. Sure, that's almost another argument but it overflows into this discussion somewhat with the environmental debate. I have 8851, my only real old technic set. it has 35 steps (including sub steps) and 350 parts. Avg 10 parts per step. 42100 (which I do not have) has 1000 steps? and 4108 parts? Avg 4.1 parts per step. not sure about sub steps as I do not own the instructions. simply half the paper production.
  8. MangaNOID


    Gorgeous build and a perfect display stand to compliment it. There are tiny wires around the handle bar area is that for the headlights? battery for those on the bike?
  9. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    It just that I put the suspension and cross-member half a stud off from the rest of the car making things a bit more difficult for myself trying to chase good scale when that was probably a bit to pedantic for my skill level. you can see it in this photo best with a half stuff either side of the suspension towers. I hear you indeed, thanks for the reminder. I was supposed to just be using flex axles for the body with a few panels here and there but I'm going too overboard maybe. I knew this body work would be hard for me but this is just crazy difficult I'm starting to study a lot of MOC's by you lot of cars to see how people connect stuff and do this. little bit of chassis, little bit of body, little bit of functions just trying to line everything up as I go thinking of everything else at the same time. As I said more respect to scale model builders! A bit more floating body work to make sure it looks like a 240z as that other photo above looked more like a Mazda MX-5. I need to build some more physical chassis now to catch up but the shape/scale is kinda lining up
  10. Fantastic design! Love it
  11. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    This is not easy with the body work. Its slow going, I think the shape is getting there without too much parts usage. some parts are 'floating' in this pic so I can see where they need to be to then connect them. not sure if there is a better way but this seems to work for me. Chassis is going ok and I am more confident in my building for that. More respect for the difficulty in scale technic building
  12. this looks really interesting and strange in details!. I think a few more photos would be great, to show some of your building/chassis etc.
  13. MangaNOID

    Gears-efficient gearbox

    Hey @technicmath Gentle reminder that your supposed to post in English
  14. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    Thanks @tomek9210 it’s a good thought , it would stiffen the hub more. I’ll look at it tomorrow but I’m not sure I can make it work . Will see.
  15. MangaNOID

    [WIP] Datsun 240Z - Gearbox -

    I had a painfull time with this steering. its a little loose feeling still and I think that is down to A: the steering links on the balls and B: using the small turntable at the top which has a very loose fit like a non friction pin. You know, sometimes you can tighten up steering by using friction pins but not with the turntable (?) so I have gone through as much as possible elsewhere in the steering to tighten up as much as possible. Even though this is intended (maybe as a consequence of the previous) as a shelf model (maybe on a technic plinth ) and the steering would no way hold up on an motorised version. This was my strut assembly things wrong with this were the wheel was only supported by one stud hole and the axles holding the turntable to the liftarms are not as tight as pins. so I changed to pins with bars in them (due to half stud stupidness) and added further support for the axle itself rearward of the hub. I tried to keep the steering ball as close to the swivel point as possible to be able to use the small wheels and have them in close to the hub as possible too. This is a compromise,as most things are, as the steering point on the hub further out would reduce steering looseness if i'm not mistaken. Also this keeps the steering rack and links in line and the rack close to the crossmember like the actual car and the steering input offset to the proper side of the car...that is because its the rally version of course using the 2L bar with ball for the steering link allows me to put the steering link 'too far' over the ball which tightens things up a little bit more. the steering rack closely resembles the 240z setup as best I can in Lego without too much excessive Lego-ness. Well that's my opinion anyway what I am interested in is with this build is keeping the look of the Datsun as close to possible as the original car which means compromising rigidity I suppose, as I found out with the steering. I work hard on this though to get maximum rigidity with minimum liftarm frames that would spoil the look in my opinion. And the engine bay is looking open like the 240z as best I can. A few details I may incorporate is (fake) disc brakes (these match the diameter of datsun brakes almost perfectly in 1/8 scale!) and some hose maybe to look like brake hose which is a bit off in scale with pneumatic hose so we shall see. firewall is going in next to see how the engine bay holds up in strength. I am worried at this stage that the strut towers will still push inwards when compressing the suspension. otherwise the real build is looking and feeling OK (using available colours that I have at this stage of course) EDIT: I also tried to add tie rods to stiffen the suspension arms and that helps a little also.