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Found 7 results

  1. This summer I acquired a 3D printer, and it only just recently crossed my mind that I could make parts that I've been wanting - even those that don't exist yet. This will be the thread I throw all that into. For the first post, here's my first version of the standard straight track: First, I started off by drawing the track profile, using the dimensions I found on the L-gauge wiki: http://l-gauge.org/wiki/index.php?title=Track_Geometry I used Autodesk Fusion 360 for the modelling portion (it's free to students, makers, hobbyists, and businesses making less than 100k USD a year!). Then, I extrude the profile out by 128mm to get the 'blank' for a piece of straight track: I then make another drawing on the top of the base which represents the ties present on the Lego track: Finally, I take every other section of the blank and extrude them downwards to the bottom of the blank, this time using a 'cut' operation instead of a 'new body' operation: I now have something that looks quite a bit like a piece of Lego track! It's obviously missing studs, the snap-together connectors, and the cutouts on the ends of the rails. However, it will do for a first print test. I then export from Fusion 360 as a .STL and load that into my slicing program of choice, Cura. I'm looking at the model in the layer view after applying my 'strong' settings - this lets me see the model layer-by-layer and I can see how it should look. I can also see a cross-section by using the slider in the upper right: Here we're seeing the interior of the rails, but not the ties. Here we can see inside the ties, as well as the supports - these are temporary structures that will be removed once the print is completed. They hold up the overhangs in the model that may otherwise sag or distort excessively - I'll need to change the support orientation before I commit to a print for better results. Unfortunately, it's too late at night for me to kick off a print - I know the time estimate given is somewhat of an underestimate, so one of these very basic track pieces will actually take a bit over three hours instead of the two and a half that's given by my slicer. I'll be doing that tomorrow.
  2. LEGO’s turn table has considerable friction and rotating a model at an exhibition for a whole day would ruin it. A thrust ball bearing is necessary to decrease the friction. I previously 3D printed a large bearing for my Unikitty. For this year’s exhibition I needed a smaller thrust ball bearing so I designed a new medium sized ball bearing. It includes liftarms to hold a worm wheel which results in a rotation ratio of 1:78. The 3D model is available from my website. I hope it helps you for your MOCs.
  3. So shapeways had a decent cyber monday sale, and a I grabbed a couple the G2 style Vahi's. I wanted one for a moc and wanted to see what worked best, and the thoguht of an upper half to the old mask was just fun. I'm putting pictures here so everyone can see whats out there and how well it works. I just had them all printed in orange smooth and polished, its close enough to lego's color #1 G2 compatible upper Mask of time (https://www.shapeways.com/product/2GH9GTYAQ/mask-of-time-gen-2-clip?optionId=60904349) (Image courtesy of biosector 1) Accurate to the comics, looks great from the front. Its pretty thick too, not any real risk of breakage Looks good on the head and fits well, eject feature works. This mask ONLY fits the G2 head. you can wedge the original mask into the slot by the mouth, but its not really designed to fit. Here's the issue. its totally flat. he's wearing a cardboard cut out. The lack of compatibility to the old mask is also a drawback, and the clip loosens pretty quick from use. To be fair, its only ever shown from the front in the comic. Overall, a good choice if you like accuracy and the eject feature, and I imagine it would look good in gold paint. a poor choice if you want the combined mask (just doesn't work) or a 3 dimensional design that looks good from every angle #2 G1 compatible g2 Mask of time (https://www.shapeways.com/product/SC3CX93N7/completed-mask-of-time-for-gen-one?optionId=61172468) From the same seller as before. Both halves are 3d printed, with the old vahi getting a long axle running through it to connect to the upper half and the old mata head. This one looks awesome combined and fits well. Its not a perfect fit on the head though, and doesn't fit the metru head (aka the best one) at all. there's some parts that rub against the mata head too, but it fits pretty well. you can also use the av-toran head, though again there are some parts that don't want to fit. The real issue is the axle on the lower half. Its a little bit too small. Unfortunately, this means you can't fit regular axles into the 'mouth' of the upper half to connect to a head, and the connection on the lower half by itself is very weak The mask looks pretty good from the side, without the clip, there is a smooth helmet at the top that makes the 'g2' half look and feel more 3 dimensional. Th 3d printed g1 vahi is pretty nice, only one or 2 things out of place (no mouth hole for example), it would be hard to tell them apart if it weren't for that texture. Basically, this one is a good choice if you want a neat looking mask with a solid combination. but its compatibility with actual lego is poor. So while its really cool looking, I'd wait and see if the artist updates it with a slightly thicker axle. The helmet at the top also keeps you from using the head you want. (the metru or G2 one) #3 G1 style Vahi upper half (https://www.shapeways.com/product/8L3Q9QPW6/vahi-mask-of-time-upper-half?optionId=61153284) The strangest, but, in my opinion, coolest option. This tiny piece rests on the top of a mata head... And is then held in place by the original vahi! Its a bit fiddly, but it stays on really well And looks awesome Look at how it lines up with the eye holes and 'bubbles' in the old mask. its pretty clever. Its also the cheapest option, since there is very little thickness to it looks good from the back too, a really well though out shape. Of course the drawback to this one is the compatibility. mata head only, absolutely no way to attach it to anything else. Its pretty close to the comic apearance but has no way to interact with the g2 head. #4 G2 head adaptor You can also just connect the original mask to a g2 head using this G2 adapter (https://www.shapeways.com/product/NBGJH9DEY/mask-adapter-round-hole-with-ejection-feature?optionId=60141695) These have been mentioned in the Shapeways MUP topic, and they work quite well; Though the vahi looks strange attached to it, you kind of have to blame the vahi's odd shape and small size for that The clip works perfectly. might wear out over time, but its the best fitting clip so far for a shapeways mask. The only drawback is that it only fits 2001-2002 masks, none of the axle mounted ones. Its available without the eject feature as well. So there are most of the current options for shapeways masks of time! I like the tiny G1 version the best, but they all are neat, fun designs. If anyone is in the market for a g2 mask of time, I hope this helps! Also, a special thanks to the shapeways sellers that made these masks. I will be using all of them for something.
  4. Hello, I have created a better scale tire & rim for trucks and light industry vehicles with a proper rim offset. The proportions allow for dual tire mounting and single. Is there any intrest within the community to have something like this produced? (in low volumes) I would look forward to hearing any insight/ feedback - purists need not respond! :) The tire would be a flexible rubber like material, rim would be SLS printed or ABS.
  5. Has anyone else thought about how the advent of 3d printing will affect Lego? If someone starts making their own plastic bricks via a 3d Printer, how is Lego going to fare? The Quality of Lego could keep it afloat for a while, but if we could start making our own bricks, wouldn't that spell the end of the Lego group? Am I being to apocalyptic with my thinking here, or is anyone else worried? :pirate_skel1:
  6. Rotating a heavy construction is difficult with LEGO's turn table and previous solution for a ball bearing using the droid wheels remain awkward. Mounting the droid wheels is just difficult. They were never meant to be a ball bearing. So I fired up my 3D program and created a Thrust Ball Bearing. Luckily I could also 3D print the whole assembly. I hope this helps. Further details are available here.
  7. TLG and 3D Printing

    We all know LEGO prototypes with 3D printing, but when I was surfing the web when I found this. Now, to be honest, I get why LEGO doesn't want to distribute through 3D printing yet, but as an evolving technology, could you see this taking the place of buying from a store? How would this affect LEGO and the consumer? Would this hinder LEGO? I, for one, can see this being used to help improve the replacement parts service. Imagine trying to get a retired piece, for a certain set now. Without printing, you may have to buy from the secondary market, but if LEGO had 3D printing, we could get replacement parts printed from a computer file. Granted, it is not 3D printing is not perfect at the moment, but I am sure that by 10 years, it's quality may rival molded plastics. What do you is your guys' opinion and why?