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Found 285 results
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Does anyone here know of any sets that in the instructions ask you to cut 3mm rigid hose? I know that old Technic sets asked you to cut 4mm pneumatic hose, but was it the same way with 3mm ever? Maybe one of the people who has been in the hobby longer than I have could answer this. Thanks in advance.
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Over the past year I have been working on a custom millennium falcon based off the 2004 set. I started out with an LDD file uploaded by a flickr user by the name of Flynn2000 After heavily editing a lot of the interior details and adding my own special touches like a new Escape Pod and landing gear. I decided to post it here as I have been having trouble finding a way to connect my landing gear design to the actual ship itself. Some cool renders of the ship below along with a download to the file. If any of you could think of a way to attach the landing gear I would love to read them!
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Does anyone know of a rather good way to make wheel arches, specifically like on the back of a Ford F250, to go around a 6 stud diameter wheel? I have experimented with these, but either way I line them up the two-stud protruding bit ruins the curve. I plan on having the entire assembly stick out from the body by half a stud, using jumper plates. Thanks in advance!
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Hello! Today I came across a supplier that makes (or made) custom accessories for Lego minifigures, like Brick Forge or BrickWarriors, called Custom Crazy. Their website seems to be down, and their last Flickr post was three years ago Do any of you guys know if they's still around? If not, where can I find them? If so, do any of you have any... almost at 100 posts...
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Soft axle stud length?
Richard Dower posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
how many studs long is a soft axle of 13 cm?....is it 19L? -
[HELP] Reducing Wobble in Axle
A Gallifreyan Cat posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
So I made a small scale solid axle just for fun and I think it turned out quite well, but it wiggles side to side a bit too much. Here are some pictures. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Those are the pictures of the axle, now here is the problem. The above two pictures show the extent of the wobble. -
[HELP] 11 Stud Wide Front Suspension
JJ2 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hello, one of my projects need a 11 stud wide independent front suspension (just the suspension not the wheels) with servo steering but with using only the new~ suspension parts found in the snowmobile. I was wondering if any of you can help me with a design because I am stumped. It is not supposed to be driven. Thank you! -
Just wondering if there's a 'how to' guide for LDD somewhere, apart from the basic help file that comes with the software (and this forum of course!). Things that I'd like to know how to do, for example: force a part to be placed underneath another part, rather than on top? (for example I have a model which contains a 4x10 plate correctly underneath two 1x8 plates along its edge. But I need to move the 4x10 plate along by one stud. When I move it, the large plate pops on to the top of the 1x8 plates. I can't just turn the view round so I am looking from underneath, because there are other plates lower down in the structure which get in the way of seeing what needs to be done.) Having saved a group, how do you select it to use again? Having hidden a part, how to you unhide it?
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Problem with Technic 8289 build...?
Richard Dower posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Built this set a few days ago....but i have found that while using one function, such as turning the turntable would effect the other function....raising and lowering the boom. is this a design flaw?....or did i built the parts too tight and turning one function is affecting the other? In this vid you can see when he is raising the boom the turntable moves a bit....but mine is much worse. -
Hello, soon to be fellow customizes! I will start of by saying that I am a purist... ish... When I say "purist" I mean that I am as of yet unwilling to cut, glue, mold, bake, sharpie, paint, etc.. LEGO bricks. I am willing though to do all of the above to non-Lego. I have recently ordered some Brick Warriors, and they are AWESOME!!!! Also, I got the Brick Forge hoplite pack (http://www.brickforg...&cat=582&page=1), which is also awesome... too awesome . I checked Brick Forge's site and YAY there are four different kinds of packs! Sadly there is only one color of javelin and two colors of shields, both not in bronze (that is, outside of the packs). Also, the helmets and shields by themselves for 10 soldiers might look bland, so I might want to paint or decal them. For now what I'm asking is: #1 Has anyone had experience doing something like this? If so, please comment! #2 Would it be worth it (the cost of paper, decals, paint, clear coat, the amount of time etc...)? Or is the fun for you guys not in the product, but in the making of it? #4 Because I'm new to this, would the finished product even look good? #3 Any other general advice to a newbie about customization will be appreciated. This probably will amount to nothing, but it could be the makings of a project! Also, I probably won't do anything with this until after December (wow, that's a long ways off). Only when I order some more stuff, or receive is as presents (my birthday is 7 days away from Christmas), will I be able to make some real decisions. In the meantime, general advice to a newbie about customization will be appreciated. Thanks in advance! How did this paragraph get so big!
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THE M1 SHARKNOSE Design procedure and notes Last year I competed a Lego big boy steam locomotive from instructions I found online plus a few modifications I wanted. Now I want to build another engine, but not flat out copy someone elses design or even recreate a real train in Lego. I prefer steam engines mostly so that is what I decided to build. There are different things I like about different engines so I decided to list them and try to incorporate them into a single design. Design details to include: - articulated engine design - large cylinders - 2 axle leading and trailing trucks - shark nose from the shark nose diesel locomotive - sloped boiler from the PRR K4 - streamlined look - large 4 seat cab supported by trailing truck - the PRR T1 4-4 driving wheels arangement - that box on a tender someone can sit in when the engine is moving in reverse - large tender - special/rare/unique tender axle/wheel arrangement - possible sloped end of tender - larger than most engines, but smaller than the big boy engine - Big Bens Bricks extra large driving wheels - custom drive rods - Powerful, yet fast - all BBB driving wheels connected to motors - 4 large motors in boiler - V2 IR reciever in tender - 2 battery boxes in tender - not black because I want a brighter colorfull engine like the Mallard and other British engines (blue, green, orange, etc) but not a rainbow of colors either Now I know I said not copy other peoples designs, but there is an axle design that Nebraska uses and I think it is the best axle design ever created, so I am going to try and re-create that axle design. - Nebraskas awesome axle design Additionally I decided not to paint any real railroads name on the tender or name the engine after a real engine. The name also includes some of my favorite ways railroads named there locomotives. PRR (my favorite Railroad) typically used a letter and number to name a type of engine eg K4, T1 etc. This is simple and easy to say imo. My nick name is 'Moe' thus the "M," "1" for my first MOC design, and sharknose after the sharknose diesel. The M1 Sharknose! I also plan on (hopefully eventually) putting "Moe's Railroad" on the tender. My lucky number is 80, so this will be engine number 80. United States flags will be on either side towards the front 'waving' similar to Nickel Plate Roads flags. Still not yet sure what symbol with 80 will be on the front. (PRR's was the keystone symbol with engine number in the center.) So after this insane list of things I want to include I started working on a design in LDD. The first thing I wanted to do was get a good wheel arrangement down with the correct heights for the boiler to clear flanges. I designed an entire wheel set and realised it was too small. The engine would have been DWARFED by the big boy. I began work on a MK2 version, except I remembered to use BBB XL drivers (represented by backwards lego flanged drivers). The sets of driving wheels both rotate in the center to provide better turning and less overhang. I imported my big boy engine into my new train file so I could reference it for height, length, and width while building. I want my engine to be shorter, the same height, and 1 stud wider than the big boys boiler. Medium motors are place holders for the large motors I will install. The two drive wheel boggies are identical except for where the front and trailing boggies attach. The tender will be about the same size as the big boys tender. The tenders wheel arrangement features 2 seperate boggies with 2 sets of trucks. The wheels under the BBs tender work well except 5 axles are connected and 2 axles are connected making one set of axles cause a large amount of overhang on turns. I simply added a 8th axle and seperated the trucks in the center for better turning. This also meets my goal of having a unique wheel arrangement under the tender! I may change those black and grey turn tables to bogie plates so the boggies dont easily fall off when I pick it up. The 1x6 flat tiles will help the tender slide over the axles. Bumpers are placed on the engine and tender due to the coupler. The coupler is designed to rotate in 3 different places for tight turns when the trailing bogie needs more freedom to follow the driving wheels. Battery boxes will be wired for longer supply, not over supply of electricity. Last, the tender will feature a 'real' coal load (bunch of spare/random black and grey 1x1x1 parts); will hide a handle to lift out the coal to show the battery boxes and IR sensor. I would like to use the axle design (Nebraskas) from the trailing truck on the tender axles, but am not sure how to make it look good. Chains will be connected from the trailing bogie to the tender. Possible coal auger (universal joint?) I am currently trying to figure out how to get a good look for the front. The boiler would stick out and be so far above the leading truck I just don't know what to put there right now. I might just design from the cab forward and see what I have once I get to the front. Suggestions welcome. If you see anything blatantly wrong, please let me know, thanks!
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So today I went to start off and plan a MOC in LDD and then when I went to save my build the screen froze and wasn't responding, therefore I had to shutdown my computer to get my computer to respond again, and it kept happening when I went to try and save something the next time. I can save documents and files on stuff like Microsoft word, basically everything but LDD. Do I need to update LDD for the file to save? If so please inform me because I am pretty frustrated. Thanks!\ -Xan
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HELP! making a custom lipo
JJ2 posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Greetings! Recently I have noticed some people have made custom lipo's battery boxes like Doc_Brown I would like to know if anybody has experience with this type of thing, and how much voltage I can use without damaging motors If you know of any brands of lipo's with good ratings I could look into that would be much appreciated, also I am considering getting an SBrick and would like to know if more than 9V would damage it. Thank you -
So, I've recently updated my original LEGO Transformer (his name is Warhawk) and I'm happy with it, except for the head (at first it was Hero Factory Surge's head, now it's Bulk's head), which doesn't look like the head that I imagined (something akin to Optimus Prime or Soundwave). While I initially thought that the Kre-O Transformer helmets would be too big to fit, it turns out they are a well fit, so I could actually use a Kre-O fig head with a red visor (like Singe's, which I happen to own) in combination with Kre-O Optimus Prime's helmet to give the head I want him to have... but there's a problem (and I'm not talking about the issue of robbing the little adorable Kre-O Optimus of his iconic helmet): The colors don't match! The blue of my Kre-O Optimus Prime is visibly darker than the regular blue (I believe the proper name of it is "bright blue"?), so the head stands out even more than it really should. However, I do know that Hasbro at least uses in some sets also a blue that is much closer (if not outright the same) as good old LEGO blue, as the Kre-O Bluestreak I own is bright blue. Looking at the articles on TFWiki.net, it looks like that Optimus and Soundwave were produced and released in various colorations, but it's hard to determine if any of these redecoes are in the blue that I need. After all this long explanation, it's time for me to ask my actual questions: 1) Did Hasbro ever produce the Optimus Prime (or Soundwave) helmet in a shade of blue that is identical to the regular LEGO blue? 2) If not, are there any similiar helmets in the Kre-O Transformer Line in the fitting coloration? It must have a faceplate though. 3) In either case, what's the best way to aquire Kre-O Parts? Especially if I want to make sure the parts are in excellent condition, preferably new? I hope you can help me with this rather specific request. If all else fails, I can always go for the Jango Fett helmet, but still, getting a proper Transformer helmet would be great in that case.
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[HELP] Negative Ackerman Steering Geometry
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Hi, I'm pretty sure this is Negative Akerman steering geometry. If your know how to fix this problem please speak up! Here are some more pictures of the steering setup. Thanks for your help! -
[Help] Car Design
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I am working on a sports car and I can never get shapes just right. Like Crowkillers vampire gt is perfect even though its not based off of a car. Also, Jeroen Ottens Mistresshas wavy lines I cannot get in my cars. So what I'm asking for is techniques to shape body's for cars and get shapes right. Thanks! -
My oldest son has really gotten into legos like I did as a kid, and we have pulled out all of my old legos from the 80s and 90s which includes a few ships like the 6271 Imperial Flagship, Renegade Runner, and Imperial Trading post. He got into the Pirates of the Caribbean so we have the Black Pearl and Queen Anne's Revenge too. My son told me that he has lots of Pirates, but not enough imperial/British ships to make it a fair fight! We have recently built quite a few custom kits from http://www.brickmania.com/, so I thought there might be custom ship builders out there or at least instructions to buy. I thought that something like this http://www.ebay.com/...=item2eda5a3ad8 might be a good solution, but it turned out to be way too big and fragile to be playable, and I wasn't happy with the lack of the tumblehome technique that I saw while browsing these forums. 20150703_111506 by adam_beck_bell, on Flickr I found Sebeus's masterpieces to be absolutely perfect and his HMS Marianne has become my goal. http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=71195 So I've taken apart the monstrosity I had built, and I'm trying to figure out how to replicate some of these amazing techniques from Sebeus and others. Being completely new to doing this without full instructions, it is a steep learning curve. Sebeus suggested that I make my own thread to get some pointers from the community so I can reach this goal of a playable and sleek Pirate killer. Here are a few pics and some comments on what I'm struggling with. Please feel free to offer critiques of my building work and posting. I am trying to build each section independently and then attach it to the hull. I've had to go back and completely break down sections and build it in place to get things to line up. I'm not entirely settled on what approach will work best for me here. 20150703_210350 by adam_beck_bell, on Flickr Tying together these gaps in the structure are really stumping me at the moment. There is a little gap between the sides of the ship and the interior deck and a big section i need to figure out between the very front which ended up at a higher elevation than the rest of the deck. 20150712_191039 by adam_beck_bell, on Flickr Overall, I'm liking the shape of the tumblehome but I'm a little worried about there being too much of a gap. 20150712_191030 by adam_beck_bell, on Flickr Once again, please help push me in the right direction... I'm a big boy and can handle it, I just want to learn. Thanks, Adam EDIT: Here is the (initial) completed ship! 20150816_163144 by adam_beck_bell, on Flickr
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I'd like to have another go at building a Gundam - the more I look at my previous attempt, the more I grow dissatisfied with the proportions and poseability, especially since now I have the actual official model kit that looks like this: The biggest issue with my model (apart from looks) was the joints. I relied mostly on ball joints and the classic click hinges which meant that the ankles were prone to letting it fall over and the knees couldn't bend more than one click before they locked up, and the arms were mostly totally unposeable. Therefore, the issue relied mostly on the frame - except I never had a unified frame to begin with. If you'd like to see the mess I made of the design, you can find the LDD file on this page. For this build I've been looking for a mech frame that's similar in scale but is an actual proper frame rather than some weird unibody thing. The appropriate scale for this sort of build, I'm told, is anywhere between 9-12 minifigures tall (depending on if your minifigures are 5 or 6 feet tall, respectively). In LDD my Gundam is almost exactly 9 figures tall, so I am okay with another build in that scale. For joints, I would like to make use of ball joints again but replace the knee and elbow joints with the 44224 and 44225 pieces, and do something about the hip joints. To this end, I've been searching for a frame that I can build but haven't been able to dig much of anything up. To summarize: I need help in finding a mid-scale mech frame that uses the strong Technic Rotation Disc Joints and ball joints for maximum strength and poseability, but haven't had much luck in finding anything reproducible (picture quality from 2006 isn't nearly good enough for me to make out much of anything). Does anyone have any sort of resources or frames that they use regularly to help them with their mecha builds, and if so, would you be willing to share them here? Thanks in advance - I'm pretty sure this sort of thing is the Holy Grail of mech builders!
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hello all i need help to name this game that some students at my school have been playing. i will explain it as much as i can ok so your a circle with the president of the uk in it, and you are in this feld of coloured circles and you have to collect the small circles by moving around and as you do that your circle gets bigger. it is a game for ios but that is all i know please help thanks
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Hey, ya'll. I'm trying view a How-to for a custom head for a Bionicle MOC I'm working on, but I can't because I can't view anything related to LDD because I'm using a Chromebook. I would really appreciate it if someone that can use LDD to make a PDF or something, so that I can get said instructions. Here's the link: http://sta.sh/02854h8z7bkj Thanks!
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Front winch for 8289?
Richard Dower posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Can anyone help me with a design for a simple front winch for the 8289 fire truck?....i have the B model built and now want to start on the A....but i tink i needs a front winch, dont fire trucjs have them as standard? -
[Wip/Help] DuneBuggy Chassis
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I finished the chassis of my Moc. The thing is, I just don't know what kind of body I should put on it, any ideas? Here a pictures. -
[Help] Lego steering reinforcement
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I'm making a Race Dune Buggy. I am very happy about how the chassis turned out! It was extremely fun to drive. But the thing is, the steering is fragile, I circled the fragile points with a Red Circle. When I crash, the wheel hub gets detached on one of the joints. So does anyone know how to reinforce it better? -
[Help] WeDo Robotics USB Hub?
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
I was browsing Bricklink and found this!? What is it!? -
[Help!] Good Front axles / Rear axles instructions
Block_Smarts Lego Technic posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Since I'm a new Technic builder I'm not so good with steering, anyone have any instructions for axles I could use? Thanks!
