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Showing results for tags 'fast'.
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My fastest vehicle yet, this model is designed to take trails at speed, just like the real trucks to on the deserts of the world. I was quite happy with this, it's fast, but still capable of moderate terrain. it is, just like the real trucks, very easy to flip at speed. Rebrickable LXF file Instructions -
Hello, I have been building with Lego technic and power functions for about 2 years now and like many others have discovered that the 7.2v of 6 rechargeable batteries is sometimes not enough for some creations. One day I found a old TYCO RC for free, looked at the battery and saw,"9.6v" I thought "SCORE!" and started making a adapter for it. I made this "Rat Rod" to test out how the extra 2.4v effected fast models. So enough talking here are the pics IMG_6020 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_6021 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses: . Servo for steering. . 2 L-motors geared 3:1 for drive. . and obviously 1 custom battery "Box" The car was literately built around the Sbrick and has almost no open space in the chassis and it is very rigid for how small it is. The steering is regular rack and pinion and the L-motors were coupled together because there was sadly no room for a differential. I have not measured the top speed but I think it is around 6-10mph on a full charge. When I built the bodywork I tried to make it look tough and powerful almost like an armored bank vehicle. The battery almost took up all the space on the top so I had no room even to make a rough interior. I am not at all happy about the hood because of the steep angle and gaps but this was built just to test out the battery not to win a beauty award IMG_6024 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Almost forgot the most important picture. Here's the video All pictures and more are on my Flickr account LINK Thank you for reading -
For the "Fast car competition" organized by BuWizz, I have done that: For this contest, you have to make a vehicle with suspensions, and do a video showing it doing at least one jump. Of course, the MOC must be powered by a BuWizz! For the steering, there is a servomotor. The driving is done by two L motors, with a 1:1.8 ratio. So the buggy has a correct speed, and enough torque to be driven on dirt, sand... It is fully suspended. The front is an ordinary system. But for the rear, I couldn't do independant suspensions (not enough compact) or a suspended axle (because as the motors are in the chassis, when you accelerate the axle tilts). So I done an "amost suspended axle". The liftarms thin 5L have an effect of anti roll-bar. I have tried to do a light design. Thus, the MOC weighs 460 grams. -
Not for LEGO purists, contains modified LEGO parts. It has been a wonderful struggle, but it paid off: a super fast, relatively stable LEGO RC Boat, driven by a brushless elektromotor and two, counterclockwise turning propellors! No torque-roll anymore, almost no porposing (thanks to the trim tabs), direct steering and great fun! To get the balance right and to get the boat planning at higher speed was a challenge. But it works! The wet area can be reduced to a minimum, at high speed the boat is almost complete on top of the water (downside: hardly any control left :(( ). Based on a 54799 LEGO Hull with a few additions: - 3D printed stuffing tube to cater for an in-board, brushless motor (10 mm tube stuffed with LEGO parts to make it waterproof) - A gearbox to convert the motor output into two counterclockwise turning axles - A 2x2 3D printed LEGO brick to make the steering arm waterproof - And al the 2.4GHz RC parts: ESC, servo, battery pack, receiver Please have a look at the video and let me know your comments. -
The American Club Racing (ACR) model was introduced in 1999, starting with the Viper GTS (Phase SR II). Exclusive 1 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This model had suspension and engine enhancements focused on maximizing performance in road racing and autocross environments. Horsepower was bumped to 460 hp (370 kW) in these models, while torque increased to 500 lb·ft (678 N·m). Weight was reduced by over 50 pounds (23 kg) by stripping the interior and removing other non-essential items such as the fog lamps (replacing them with brake ducts). Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr In an attempt to stay true to its heritage, I've left this beast without bells and whistles in the name of speed.It sport a front clam shell hood, opening rear trunk, and spring back doors. The real catch here is in the speed and options. Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr This Viper packs 2x Buwizz 2.0 (with Ludicrous mode) that power this monster directly to 2x Buggy motors. The gearing is accessible and can be swapped for a higher or lower gear in minutes. Ratios avail: 1:1 and 1:1.7. This model also has many build options: 1. 1 or 2 buwizz / 1 or 2 Lipo / 1 or 2 Sbrick 2. 2 Buggy motor or 2 XL motor 3. Fully manual car (just remove the electronics 4. Swap out the engine on the fly for a new one! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The Viper also has a rake to it that I also replicated. 1 stud off the ground at the front, 2.5 studs at the rear. Dodge Viper ACR- open hood by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Its been a pleasure playing with this car OUTDOORS (don't even think of play indoors, I smashed it over 10 times) and I hope you guys enjoy the video! Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dodge Viper ACR - Overlay by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Flickr Album: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmeHa4rL Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/loxlego Crash compilation: Dodge Viper - Crashes by lachlan cameron, on Flickr -
So there it is, my 'illegal' entry to AMS2, wich is illegal because it uses a rechargeable (LiPo) battery instead of the Lego 6xAA batteryboxes wich are drained very fast, expensive and bad for the enviroment, so I don't use them, purist rules are ok untill they stop making logical sense and become outings of total OCD only. Eat Dust ! Big enigines need big tailpipes. Pneumatic lifting of the bodywork to acces tech area, it can also ride in this position but it is not recommended. As there is no suspension in the chassis the pneumatic coupling of the bodywork still garantees a smooth ride. A souped up engine needs lots of extra dials and gages and stuff to keep track of all the added systems, no pair-a-dice by the dashboard light but a trofee pair of worn out pistons, behind the steering wheel there is also a siringe mounted to the dash, I still don't know what's in it, but knowing the driver it's probably heroin. Big supercharger added. Extra cooling for the engine Just like a real dragster it can lock the frontwheels (pneumatic breaks) to do a tire warming burnout in place, with 4L motors driving the rear wheels only doing a burnout, drifting and doughnuts are no problem at all as long there is a flat surface to ride on (no carpet), there is also a magnetic reedswitch wich engages the 6 orange blinking LED's as a warning when the frontwheel lock is engaged. The (pneumatic) break pedal is actaully working, though you would have to push it a 100 times to engage the breaks, in the rear there is a electrical pneumatic pump keeping pressure on the system, but when electricity is down it can still be manually pressured by the breakpedal. It maxes out the testbench in 5 seconds... So dragsters are highly illegal, don't use standart engines and chassis in general, anything goes as long as it's fast, so I think I did a perfect rendition of a dragified Lego set with this build. More pics here; https://bricksafe.com/pages/Permo/crazer- -
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Power functions. 1x L motor 1x Servo motor -
So, due to the positive response of my Skeleton Street Racer, I have made a bigger one. It is exactly the same (motors, gear ratios) but larger. Video showing that it is still pretty fast: There isn't much to say, because it was already said in the original one's topic: It uses the new 40th Anniversary brick. ^^ \ LDD: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Offroadcreations/skeleton-xl/Skeleton XL.lxf Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-6874/offroadcreations/skeleton-xl/ Tell me what you think! -
Hi guys! Here's a demonstration model I built to show the potential of Buwizz. There were several goals for this model: Keep it small and light Gearing should be as simple and efficient as possible - ended up using a 40 tooth gear powering the older style differential, getting a 40/:16 gear ratio Advanced steering solution - pivot point is inside the wheel and the car is using ackermann steering geometry for best possible steering and efficiency Use Buwizz as a structural support - not only does the Buwizz power and control the car, it also helds it together Working steering wheel and openable doors - have them too Here's the result: In the gif below you can see the way the car is built and how the steering system works The end result is a very fast and maneuverable car that faces same problems as the big ones. Its actually so fast, that its easy to understeer at high speed or oversteer when accelerating. Controling it at high speed can be very hard, but thanks to Buwiz's different speed modes you can easily slow down the car. This is very usefull for parking or precise maneuvering. To finish up with a bang, here's a video: If there will be enough demand I will create an LDD model of this little speed devil -
So, some users may remember that in Russia there was an event in June 2016. Some users, especially me, liked this one the best, so I decided to reverse engineer it. I did it at the end of July 2016, but I never posted it here. Here are some pictures of the initial version, which had some problems, especially the suspension. I decided to give it another go using the LDD file I made, and add my own details. So this is what I created... The rear suspension comes directly from @Madoca 1977's PF Buggy 2.^^ LDD: sorryitsconfusing.lxf Rebrickable: http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-7147/offroadcreations/downhill-racer-reverse-engineered/ Enjoy!
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Hello everyone, This is my newest creation, it is my forth MOC using non-Lego parts in its construction. I started this project when I bought some rear and front hubs from the Traxxas Rustler to try to fit them with Lego, it turns out that the rear hubs are almost exactly two studs wide and the front ones are about 1.5 studs. I also am using 2.2" wheels with the hubs, they are really grippy and are much better then Lego ones. Unlike my last MOC that had a full body with almost no gaps which ended up weighing about 1/4 the cars weight I went with a more simple design to save weight. IMG_1453 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1454 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It uses Traxxas 550 12T motor for drive, Hitec HS-322HD servo for steering, a hobbywing quicrun ESC 1060, a FLYSKY FS-GT3B remote, and a 7.2v 2000mah battery. IMG_1455 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1457 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It has full independent suspension on the rear and the back but the back uses Lego dampening springs to stop it from bouncing around during high speeds. Unlike my older MOC's this uses bearings for all of the drivechain components to stop friction, in fact without the motor mounted I could free-spin the wheels because of the low friction. With no surface to rub against no parts were damaged on the drivechain except early versions of the parts to adapt the Traxxas universal joint to Lego. IMG_1467 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1468 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The total drive ratio is 9:1 with the 12T gear on the motor going to a 36T that goes to another 12T to the 36T differential, this gives it a lot of torque and acceleration. When I designed the chassis I wanted to place the heavy components as low as possible and the motor ended up the same level as the bottom plate with the battery just 1 stud above it. Because of this I can turn at high speeds an it no flip over, there were a few times I would hit a large bump or rock in the road and it would simply skid around not flip. IMG_1458 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1459 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The steering on this is much better then my last ones and has a pretty good radios for its size, I am using a rack and pinion setup with turnbuckle steering links that allow me to adjust the toe-in or out, I set it to have a small amount of toe-in and with that it can stay going strait for a long time at high speeds. I have used a GPS app on my phone and it says the top speed is 24.9mph or 40kph
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Hi eurobricks! here is my new dune buggy: details: it is fast, powered by l motor, nizn aaa batteries, servo motor and ir reciver of course! it also has some lights which are useful in the dark! building time: 4 hours. insrtuctions: no, but maybe i will make some. Video: https://youtu.be/1W26VOe1dkU i hope you enjoy! -
Hello My ripsaw, inspired by Fast Furious 8 (but not a copy). Since Buwizz can handle 2x Buggy motors, I decided to build light and powerful tracked vehicle for snow. Vehicle for fun! Movie was filmed 3 month ago. We have summer now. TURN ON ENGLISH SUBTITLES I am not the first here with such powerful tracked vehicle. I can confrim that it is useless toy and hard to control. Thing for fun:) more photos http://bricksafe.com/pages/rm8/ripsaw Thank you for watching! -
Hi! When I received my BuWizz, I wanted to make a fast RC model. It had to be very light, so a kart was good to make that. The mechanic is very simple. There are just some gears to turn the wheels at a high speed. As you can see, the driving is powered by two L motors and the steering by a servomotor. According to the tyres, this kart is very fast!
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This F1 Racecar was something Dugald and I have been talking about doing for a long time. All of the regular batteries and motors just aren't fast enough. We tried our best to keep everything light weight, but enough paneling to show the curves of a real F1. Video: Flickr: https://flic.kr/s/aHskMrkHjm Fastest car we've ever built by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Technic Addict was so kind to lend us his RC buggy motors, battery pack and Michelin tires. (I am quite fond of those tires, but I checked bricklink and found the cheapest used pair to be 110$ for all 4 so yeah... not going to buy em Back end fun by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Dugald asked Technic Addict what he would like to see built with these motors and he was really keen on seeing a light F1 car to show off the speed of the motor. SO here you go Technic Addict! Thanks! IMG_2291 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr My brother and I sat down yesterday at 4pm, grabbed a few drinks, and built the night away. At 12pm we were done! IMG_2304 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr The car weighs 1450 grams or 3.2 pounds. Most of the weight is in the Michelin tires IMG_2353 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Super low car for better aerodynamics IMG_2347 by lachlan cameron, on Flickr Big shout out to Technic Addict for making this build possible!
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Hello everyone, This is my new MOC, it is my third creation using non-Lego parts. Without the body was the fastest out of the three going over 20mph-32kph but with the body it only went 17.4mph-27.9kph which was included in the video. This project was started when I bought the 8880 style hubs from Efferman on shapeways and evolved to also use the non-Lego electronics. I also used the high torque differential, 550 motor mount, and the CV joints for the 8880 type joints, designed by Efferman. This was also my first creation to use my custom designed part, the 5x7 frame for bearings IMG_1130 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I went with a lime and black color scheme on this one to give it a pop of color compared to my other, more bland creations that are white and black. IMG_1131 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I worked a lot on the front to make it look menacing like most real supercars often do. IMG_1132 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr With the custom hubs I was able to make the gaps around the wheel very small but still have it where it does not bind. IMG_1134 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr I covered up the bottom to stop dirt and other debris from getting inside the gears and motor that would cause the parts to wear faster and also shorten the life of the motor. IMG_1150 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Here is a picture with the tape and body removed. I mounted the motor and other electronics as low as possible to keep the SOG low for better handling. The gearing is 9:1, there is a 12T gear mounted to the motor and a 36T going into my 5x7 frame with bearings, along with lithium grease, that made the drive chain have almost no friction. With such low friction the motor almost never got hot and no drive parts were damaged even after me driving it on a bumpy road and some crashes. IMG_1149 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The hubs seem to have blended into the background in this picture but here you can see the rear assembly, I made this creation modular where if you remove the two black beams connected to the two dogbone pieces on each side the entire rear axle could be taken for maintenance like regreasng if any was needed. IMG_1148 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr IMG_1146 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front axle was nothing special, just two wishbones with different lengths and so on.... The performance was good but it did tend to pull left or right dew to the slack in Lego parts, but there is nothing you can do about that... Finally the video
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Hey guys I present you my FLAG semi: This is a 1:8 scale replica of the FLAG semi from the Knight Rider series. The tractor uses two motor units, two battery packs and one steering unit from the set 8675, and these are put into a technic chassis. Without the trailer it can go 25 km/h, with the trailer and the mustang (modded sheep one) in it, it’ll do around 20 km/h. With all that power the tractor alone is very fun to drive, and with the throttle control and gearbox of the RC system you actually can drift it in control. the trailer’s chassis is built with frames and lots of beams, the outer shell is just made from panels. On the inside it is heavily braced to withstand the force of all the weight at the speed. And for weight saving the trailer floor is made from beams and baseplates. It also has folding handles for easy transportation. It connects to the tractor with a manual locked fifth wheel coupling and it has an PF opening tailgate. NOTE: it is still a WIP as you will notice, but it’s for 85% done. I still need to detail the tractor (gas tanks, exhaust and lights) and take another good look at the opening mechanism of the tailgate and i still need stickers for the logos. The pictures: http://www.flickr.co...157660444542805 Hope you all like it because i already had a lot of fun driving it :p cheers -
Hello: This is my new MOC baja. It uses 2 L-motors for drive (not coupled) and a Servo motor for steering. It has full suspension with live axle rear (Like it should) and front positive caster independent suspension and working front lights. The batteries used are 9v made to work with custom adapers similer to 1nxtmonster 's called the MiniZip, but mine has 2 plugs instead of 1. (purists dont kill me) The front suspension is stablized by the 6L links elimiting almost all front-back free play in the suspension. Also the front suspension has no upper wishbon but it has a verticle axle holding it togeathe much like a MacPherson strut suspenion does, but the spring is not mounted to the hub. (see Image) It works quite well but does break if you drop it from over 3-4 feet or ~1.5 meters but it does the job for being as small as it is. Hope you like it All pictures HERE Bye
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Do you like what you see? There's more (and better) pictures and info at: http://www.moc-pages...moc.php/431893. Hope you liked it! -Marco. qm
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Update: The Wringe I has been taken by the Sea Rats. It got replaced by the Wringe II, which has been painted differently. The new Captian is Valerio D'Obarno. I am Jerome Monezterell and here is my first ship - The Wringe I. It is a fast cutter that has a bit of storage space, so she'll be registered as a class 2F. It is commanded by Jones DeRoy (the guy with the dark green Epaulettes) who is one of my most trustworthy men. It is not armed; I'll trust the escorting ships. I guess I'll just go on with pictures: Swapping load while on sea Sailing off I'm just trying through different types of hull techniques, if anyone has other suggestions besides the hull techniques by Captain Green Hair, Sebeus I and CB4 I would really appreciate those, as I don't feel like I want to go further with this technique as it seems a bit to flat to me. Edit 5th March 616: She has been captured by the Sea Rats. The crew is drifting around the ocean on a raft.
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This is a very small, robust, reliable and easy to maintain buggy. It is ideal for letting your kids play with all day. The design goal was to make a robust car as small and simple as possible. This means most of all no suspension system since that would require the use of CV joints. They are known to break and while they work nicely in LEGO super cars that you carefully push around the floor, it does not work with kids trying to race and crash their RC cars. CV joints will break. Of course it is possible to create a LEGO RC car with suspension and even four wheel drive/steering, but then you end up with LEGO’s own RC Crawler. The goal was to keep it small, simple and robust. One of the problems I encountered when letting kids play with the RC cars all day is that the axles in the differential tend to slip and move out. I hence build a differential assembly in which the axles are completely locked in and cannot move. The worst thing that could still happen is that a wheel comes off which is easy to fix. The car uses only one L-Motor and is pretty fast for that. The turning radius is very tight and the car is just fun to drive. The differential makes it perfect to drive around tight corners. The heavy battery pack is right on top of the back axle, giving it the best friction. Well, it does not accelerate like an F1, but it might still make a small difference. Building instructions, LXF, and further information are available. -
This is my Blacktron fast Scouttrax. It is inspired by the 6941 which was one of my favorite sets when I was a kid. It is also the first wheeled vehicle I've build since my 'dark age'. I've been working on this for a long time, abandoning the project several times because I couldn't get it to work as I imagined it. There are still some things I am not quite happy with, so this will not be the final model. I have plenty of ideas on how to improve it. But I think it is far enough along to show it to you guys. I went a little overboard on motors: I really like fast vehicles :). This model is fast enough to get some nice drift action going. It looks really good when doing a fast corner. I should have a video of it up in a couple of weeks. You can find some more images on my Flickr account if you are interested (https://www.flickr.c...157669572889372). -
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Rugged supercar - Hammerhead (1:9 scale) This project was not something I started very consciously. Also for me it evolved into something special. I was especially happy with the interference (in a positive way) of other builders. A big thank you to this community, for pushing me in the right direction on several occasions! The most special part - to me - of this build, is the chassis. It combines a simple 4-speed AWD transmission, a flawless sequential shifting mechanism and advanced suspension setups with Ackermann steering, anti-roll bars, torsion bars, 2 studs ground clearance and 2 studs suspension travel. All wrapped together in a very flat yet rigid and coherent structure with a mid-console width of only 5 studs. I did not want the bodywork to make any compromises to these features. I wanted the body to continue the line of durability set in by the chassis. Flex-axles do not fit that image, hence no wheel arcs. They would also sit 2 studs above the hood - not very elegant. The result is a car that does not only look fool-proof; it is fool-proof. After a rough treatment, you don't need to tighten connections or fine-tune gears to avoid friction. You can carry the car by the sides, by the trunk door (rear wing), by the nose and by the bumpers without displacing any parts. You can even grab the 2Kg build by the roof and turn it upside down to see the bottom side without a problem. So I did not intend to level with great bodywork builders. To me the biggest compliment is that some have referred to this model as the successor of 8865 and 8880. Drive train AWD with 3 differentials Sequential 4-speed gearbox One-finger shifter V8 fake engine Suspension Double wishbone suspension Anti-roll bars (front & rear) 2 studs suspension travel 2 studs ground clearance Steering Ackermann steering Gear-rack sliders Working steering wheel HoG steering Chassis Sturdy and durable Integrated bumpers Adjustable seats Narrow mid-console (5L) Bodywork Sturdy and durable Integrated roll-cage Lockable doors Openable trunk Liftable By the roof By the sides By the nose By the trunk door Instructions are available on Rebrickable. There is a full-featured version called 'Rugged supercar' and a chassis-only version called 'Flat AWD chassis'. The chassis-only version confines itself to part 1 of the instructions of the full-featured version. Special thanks to @Blakbird and @BusterHaus - with Blakbird being the driving force - for taking on the task of making these beautiful instructions! Making instructions for a build like this is a tremendous amount of work. Even more so, given the fact that I have been very demanding in sticking to my original design. - 32005a (Link 1 x 6 without Stoppers) - used for the anti-roll bars and steering tie rods - is preferred over 32005b (Link 1 x 6 with Stoppers), because each link has tow-balls inserted from both sides. 32005b can be used too, but in that case each link will have one tow-ball that needs quite some force to insert. - 32056 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape Thin) - used for the door locks - is preferred over 32249 (Liftarm 3 x 3 L-Shape with Quarter Ellipse Thin). 32249 can be used too, but makes it more likely to accidentally lock the door while it's open, which is not a big deal of course. - 76138 (Shock Absorber 6.5L with Soft Spring) - used for the door locks - should be soft springs. They are quite rare in red, but you could also use two LBG soft springs. - 85543 (Rubber Belt Small (Round Cross Section) - used for the 90 degree limiter and the return-to-center of the gear shifter - should be relatively new, say max 2 years. Not that they wear out quickly, but the older ones are slightly less tight. Images of the full-featured version can be found here. Images of the chassis-only version can be found here. See the entry on The LEGO Car Blog! P.S. Where real cars start with a sketch, evolve into a professional design and finally have their technical details filled-in, this project started with some technical details, evolved into a complete design and ended up in a sketch ;-). By @HorcikDesigns (http://horcikdesigns.deviantart.com/gallery/). -
My first Technic pullback racer MOC, an aerodynamic race car with two pull back motors! Lightning fast + extreme torque! Features dual rear wheels for maximum traction and flexible metallic tubing. Upon further testing, Aero Racer was gauged at both a short distance test and a long distance test: traveling 10 feet in .9 seconds, and traveling 25 feet in 2.8 seconds. -
For a while I have wanted to make a small 4x4 with independent suspension so as soon as this contest was released I went to work and have come up with this so far. IMG_5136 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr It has 4x4 drive with a center differential and a V2 piston engine. IMG_5138 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The front suspension was inspired by Efferman's 11 stud wide independent suspension but I have to make improvements to the steering (working on that). IMG_5139 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Here you can see the center diff, the 16t to 20t hooks the front diff to the center and the rear diff is connected through the power ball joint. IMG_5140 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr The rear suspension is nothing special if you were wondering. IMG_5137 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Money shot! More updates coming soon! All feedback is appreciated! Hope you like it so far. Bye.
