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BrickController2 is an Android and iOS application that allows you to control your Lego models using a compatible gamepad. It supports the following devices: - SBrick - BuWizz 1-2 - BuWizz 3 (basic support) - Lego Powered-Up devices: Boost, PUP HUB and Technic HUB (or Control+) - PF infrared (on Android devices having infrared emitter). Features: - Multiple profiles for a single creation - Multiple motor (or output) assignment to a single controller event - Different types of devices can be used at the same time - The same motor (or output) can be assigned to multiple controller events - Different joystick characteristic settings - Different button modes: normal button, simple toggle, ping-pong toggle, carousel toggle, ... - Train mode on joysticks - Normal and servo mode for the new Control+ motors - Sequences (like for flashing light) BrickController 2 on the Google Play Store: BrickController2 android BrickController 2 is also available on the Apple App Store. BrickController2 iOS Video tutorial created by @kbalage (many thanks for this): And another great video by @kbalage: Older versions: BrickController Android application. It lets you to control Lego creations via Lego infra-red, SBrick and BuWizz V1 and V2 using any Android compatible game controller: Current version: BrickController 0.6 User guide: BrickController User Guide Minimum system requirement: Android 4.4 and bluetooth low energy support on the phone (or tablet) Video on the older SBrickController application: -
After almost 1.5 year, finally finished studio model and instruction. Can find on my rebrickable page. WIP topic Specifications 1 Buwizz 3.0 2 Buwizz motor for driving 1 C+ L motor for steering 2 PF light for headlight 2 PF 20cm extension cable Functions Automatic headlights and working L4 engine when driving forward/backwar Working steering wheel linked to front wheels Front MacPherson Strut independent suspension Rear swing arm independent suspension Opening hood, trunk, and doors (with spring locking mechanism) Image I think shape is pretty accurate. Hood is little higher than original car but it because front macpherson strut take space. I tried to recreate original car's strut bar inside on hood. Headlight off. Because 2x2 round tile on clear is to rare I use half circle tile. Rear part Open door, trunk, hood Created using main image and chatGPT. -
Hi! It's time to upgrade one more shelf model (the previous one was the Batmobile https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/180543-mod-motorized-batmobile-76139/&tab=comments#comment-3302360). Ferrari 42125 has a lot of free space, so I've inserted four buggy-motors and a few BuWizz receivers. The chassis is very simple, I've removed suspension, V8, driver seat and steering wheel :) And the bodywork is the same as in the original LEGO set. Here is the result: Thanks for watching :) -
After reading several topics on Eurobricks, today, for the first time, I present an MOC on the forum. Do not hesitate to notify me if I made mistakes in my presentation. This MOC is a kind of tracked machine-gun Tank. It is powered by 2 BuWizz (one in the body, the other in the turret). Motorization: one RC per track with each a gearbox with 2 speeds. The two gearboxes are synchronized and controlled by a motor L. Orientation of the turret by motor M. Lifting of the "gun" by motor L. The firing mechanism uses 2 XL motors. Some pictures : Overview : Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 002 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 001 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 003 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr The body : Char Jaune Lego 005 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Char Jaune Lego 006 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr On-board ammunitions (105 rounds) At around 6 shots per second, the magazine empties in 17 seconds! it's very fast ! Char Jaune Lego 004 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr Photo of a charger, there are 15 in the magazine: Char Jaune Lego 008 by Laurent Lesellier, sur Flickr For the video, you can watch the video on my wife's Facebook account. If you like it, you can like, comment and share! This will give me a few points for the contest organized by BuWizz. The subject of the competition is how to play with Lego during the lockdown due to the coronavirus! I propose an idea with playmobil! Do you like it? Thanks for reading. Do not hesitate to comment. -
Thought I'd create a thread to just post WIPs of my MOCs, or neat mechanisms. Finished: Generic Muscle Car -
Hi, i just built a muscle car inspired from the new LEGO Technic Set Dom‘s Dodge Charger 42111. I added some functions: fake V8 engine independent front suspension rear suspension Working steering wheel doors can be opened fully rc controlled with BuWizz servo for steering 2 x L-Motors for propulsion (transmission ratio: 2,77) That‘s all... Some more pics... short clip:
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Edit: New video here. Dear trainheads, Some time ago EB member @Plastic_Goth presented his digital model of Ferrovia Eritrea's Gruppo R.202 shunter. I immediately fell in love with that cute little prototype, and I knew I had to build a model myself, in slightly larger scale for 45 mm garden railway track. Well, here it is! The prototype was built in 1927 by Breda in Milan, Italy, for shunting service on the 950 mm narrow gauge lines in Eritrea (which was an Italian colony at that time). In total, eleven class R.202 engines were built; several lococomotives are still in operation today (the „R“ stands for „scartamento ridotto“, narrow gauge). My MOC represents a R.202 locomotive in ca. 1936, after the original lifting injectors (inside the cab) had been exchanged for non-lifting ones (below the cab), but before a new numbering scheme was introduced, dropping the „R“ in the class designation. The model is held in accurate 1/22.5 scale and driven by a single L-motor working on the second axle. It features front and rear lights (from Brickstuff; separately controllable for the left and right engine side) and a Seuthe no. 99 smoke generator. All funcions are powered and remote-controlled by a BuWizz 2.0. The rods and valve gear parts are 3D-printed parts of my own design. The model consists of approx. 1,400 parts and weighs just over 1 kg. Compared to my previous models, it is much easier to handle and maintain, due to its "small" size, but still has amazing pulling power (10 four-axle LGB cars are no problem). So I think it will become my standard "everyday" engine... And here are the pictures: Prototype data sheet (drawing not accurate and not to scale): While the fireman is carrying out a minor repair on the smokebox door, an administrative officer arrives in his brand new Fiat Topolino (modified design by Peter Blackert): Two tiny Italians... Some views of the cab interior. As the BuWizz is located in the position of the firebox, the roof and the boiler backhead can be removed for access to the power button and to the charging socket: The frame: Three weight bricks are installed inside the frame and boiler, thus increasing traction: The half-plate offset in radius between smokebox and boiler required some unusual (but surprisingly sturdy) SNOT-work. A video of the model on track will follow. For now, here is a short sequence of the engine on the roller test bed: More and high-resolution photos can be found in my Flickr album. Comments and criticism are most welcome. Thanks for your interest! Best regards, Sven -
Powered by BuWizz V1. Drive: 1x M-motor. Steering: 1x M-motor Video: WIP photos: -
EDIT 08/22 - CURRENT STATE : Here is a truck I just made (well, it actually took me several days) while being confined. I don't like to take apart my sets on display to MOC so I had to do with just a bunch of spare part I had, hence the strange color scheme and some questionable building technics and aesthetic choices (for example, I didn't had anything to make the front radiator grill so i had to improvise...) I wanted to make an American style Truck, inspired by the 5571, 5591, 8285 and more recently 42078, and remote controlled so I can have a little fun with it. Please don't be to harsh, this is my first Technic MOC that didn't end at the prototype status. The original goal was to test my new Buwizz but I finally used only original Lego PF element, because I rather use a physical remote than a smartphone. It is powered by a L motor (with the drivetrain as follow : Motor---16T / 16T---20T / differential / 20T--20T / differential) ) and steered with a servo, with a decent speed and a good steering lock. The IR receiver and standard AA battery box are housed in the back of the cab, and the latest can slide up for replacement by tilting the foldable spoiler forward. The spoiler can also be folded all the way down to make the cabin roof flat. The doors can be opened and the hood can be lifted, even though there is no fake engine underneath because that's where I furst intended to put the Buwizz. (Actually there is still enough room for it so I could convert the truck to a Buwizz model and remove all the biggest section of the cab for a more lightweight truck. :-) I could also run an axle under the cabin to the engine compartment and run a fake engine from the exposed 16T gear... A lot of work, thoughts, trial and errors went into the building of this truck, so I hope you will enjoy it as much as I do. There is still A LOT room for improvement, but unfortunately I was limited by the parts I had. Almost all of my grey and black liftarms and technic connectors whereused in the process ! I am not entirely satisfied by the roof of the cabin in the IR receiver area, which is a bit messy, and I really wish I had DBG curved panel for the sides instead of LBG ones. And of course, I wish I could replace the ugly black plate at the front with a proper truck grill. I also have to add a fifth wheel, as it is not able to pull anything in this configuration. It should be easy anyway, as I have a lot of mounting option at the rear (the black panel is only there for aesthetic purpose). I just have to figure out something with the parts i have left... In the end I like very much how it turned out though, and I may consider a bricklink order to fix the aforementioned issues once the lock-down is over. In the mean time, any comment and suggestion for improvement is welcome ! :-) EDIT : now with a running fake engine ! -
Hello Technic fans. Now its time to show you my work i made 2 years ago. it is a RC catamaran with 2 RC buggy motors and 1 servo motor for steering. 1 PF m motor is for fake engines. Thanx to Buwizz for briliant solution to make this work so god. some pictures. and the video. thanx for watching. best regards, Valter -
Hello all here is my latest build, inspired by the Traxxas X-MAXX 8s remote controlled car. The idea was to build a car as "compact" as possible while using 8 buggy motors, 2 for each wheel to give it decent power, as you might notice the buggy motors are at a 90 degree angle from each other, this is to prevent them sticking out the front and back, the chassis needed tall shock towers anyway so it was a nice fit. The front suspension and steering is built fairly sturdy, however crashing with this power, you can brace all you like, it is just going to break as you can see in the video.. The newer type cv-joints are used at the motor end, but since i did not want to use the new hub with its reduction, i used the "old" cv joints with the hubs, and yes, it does "eat" the joints and/or the hubs when something is not sitting correctly. the front has a dampener, a large thin pneumatic actuator, normally hidden by a panel, it is shared with both sides and does.. very little.. but is was fun to integrate. The front springs are from the 8420 motorcycle, adjustable in stiffness, but less stiff them most people imagine them to be, these just seems to fit the build, sadly i didn't have more yellow ones for the rear. The steering uses 2 servos, not only to give it more torque for steering, but also to help reduce the slack from the gear rack to the 12z gear, The two 12z gears on the rack are both offset by 1 tooth, but against each other, the long axle going to the servo's are under a bit of stress but nothing serious, it really helps reducing the slack on the steering. To further prevent slack from the hubs they are steered with the front links and stabilized the rear links, the next picture shows the 2 gears on the same rack (car is upside down), you can also see the imprint of a 5L axle from the bumper on the 5x7 frame after a crash.. The rear suspension has the same drive setup, but since it is more fixed and less likely to get damaged in a crash, it never destroyed any joints or hubs, here i also integrated dampener in the form of small pneumatic actuator on each side, which again.. do very little.. but was fun to integrate, it also has a torsion bar going from one axle to the other to prevent body roll, let's just say it was fun to integrate :) The grey springs are the exact same as the yellow ones, but these come off the Lego 8369 rc "dirt crusher" set, i happened to have these 4 spring, considered to get 2 more yellow ones, then i saw the price.. and went with mismatched colors.. so please forgive me i cheaped out... The body started out as a crawler body, and got heavily modified, extended in every way, added 4 seats for Technic figures and a new color scheme, It is fully detachable with 5 pins. The front and rear lights are in the chassis but they line up perfectly with the translucent bricks on the body, making it easy to get to the buwizz for charging or turning them on. The video and pictures have some inconsistencies in them, i know.. but i have had 3 horrible crashes, that required rebuilds plus some roadside repairs here and there, some i forgot to give the proper fix later on.. shooting the video took me a bit longer because of the same reason, i need to practice my driving skill... or not go to a skatepark when it is wet... or just not build in overkill mode... Thanks for reading! if you have questions or comments, feel free to ask of course! Marx. -
It has been years after the unspeakable and the survivers used whatever machinery they found to make a new start. The last bit of civilization was rebuilt in a form of the mobile base nicknamed the FrankenBase due to the nature of it's design. Frankenbase was assembled from the following leftovers: Buckets and bogies from a pair of tracked loaders Front frame, suspension and axles from a monster truck Command bridge and helipad from a stranded ship Crane and two containers were salvaged from a dried up port The base also features three support vehicles, a quick buggy, a small bulldozer and a helicopter: To propel the massive base, all wheels and trackes are driven and suspended: The suspension allow the massive vehicle to easily crawl over rough terrain: The track bogies can also steer, giving the FrankenBase a very tight steering radious: The only way to acces the abse is by lovering the ladder in front, which also serves as the ladder to acces the walkways surrounding the entire vehicle: The crane uses a special mechanism which locks onto containers in order to move them: The command deck is protected by nets and features controls: View of the backside with the crane raised: Some trivia about the model: The entire model took me around 2 weeks to build All functions are powered by 19 motors and controlled by 6 BuWizz bricks It measures over 130 cm long, 45 cm high and 40 cm wide The weight is estimated to be around 7 kilograms This is my second largest model built, first being the Go-kart It's one of my most eccentric builds ever The different colors are intentional, representing the chaotic nature of it's envoirment Size compared to the Liebherr: See the model in action the video: -
The idea with this is project is to get speed from buggy motors, and torque from PU XLs, which have a very convenient shape. Powering the hungry buggy motors from 2 buwizz units and the PU XLs from the big technic hub, which will be in the rear and controlling it with the buwizz app. Servo for steering, PU L for fake v8. Perfect car. I would enter it in the mad max contest but 2 things stop me. 1, I doubt I will finish in time and 2, I don’t have any real buggy motors and will be using fake ones. -
Yo there. After complete lack of inspiration and miserable attempts at building came up with this. Probably will need some color randomization or something, otherwise getting there so far. Imo shall an apocalypsis start, gasoline would be real tough to find (diesel seems to be more omnivore) so electric buggy powered by a mini nuclear reactor mwahahahahah. Albeit getting uranium might be harder than fuel... or not, who knows. Pictures taken with smartphone as the camera is being repaired and camcorder doesn't take great pictures, sorry for of quality for now. Powered by BuWizz V1, twin Buggy Motors directly powering tumbler wheels from fastest output, front hockey spring rtc through m-motor. Rear winch through m-motor worm-8 teeth gearmesh and single pulley in the hook itself using mechanical advantage principle. Cya l8tr
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Hi there guys !!! How's everyone? It's been so long ! I had another pretty long dark age plus some kind of "lego creative block" , plus i got into developing videogames last year so i've been quite busy. Recently a friend of mine got me into lego again and somehow that creative block went off also thanks to the purchase of a buwizz :) I've always been quite obsessed by motorbikes and finally with a buwizz i could give them the look i wanted and mainly not run after them I've made two different ones both have something special: The first one is inspired by the 90's look of Honda's dirtbikes and in ludicrous mode it is honestly the fastest lego vehicle i've ever made. In the video it's running on "slow" mode. It works the same way other lego bikes used to work but instead of moving an added weight i've figured out that moving the battery alone is enough to make the bike lean left or right. In the next days I'll shoot a proper video somewhere else where i've got more space to drive it in ludicrous https://youtu.be/o7YUIS2ne7Q The second bike is "better" in a way, it only requires an L motor, it can run on pure power functions while still being enjoyable, it's enough removing the fake fuel tank and attaching the PF reciver. This one is pretty fast as well when running in ludicrous and overall it's a lot of fun :) I will take a video of this one too as soon as i have the chance https://youtu.be/-D2Kf-bZz0Y I really hope you guys will like them Bikes are not so common to see , it's kinda time to start making them :D if anyone is interested in the 3D files i'll happily share them
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Now for something completely different: A Spyder from the future - the Turbo Racer's AMC Ultra - and its opponent - the Police Interceptor MM Falcon PS (both based on @rm8's chassis for his AWD prototype) Now you can play Outrun - but for real! UPDATE: This series of RC cars will get updated in the future with new additions. UPDATE2: It was time for a logo and here it is (might be subject to change) -
Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon.
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This is an expansion, upgrade and update of the Tiger 4 x 4 x 4 The idea was to improve certain aspects of the 4x4 version: 1. The bewel gears were the weak part of the driveline, so the 6x6 uses additional 12:20 gearing after bewel gears, increasing available torque by 67% 2. Adding a second rear axle additonally helps to spread the load while climbing, increasing available overall torque by another 50%, allowing for a total of 2,5x more torque than 4x4. 3. Using defender wheels, and self-built hubs the pivot point is now a stud closer to the steering wheel and steering angle is increased from 18 to 25-30 degrees, removing the need for rear steering. 4. Center section was widened by 2 studs, allowing both gearboxes to be placed in parallel and the steering servo motor low in the center. Total gear reduction has been increased to 1:5 in high gear and 1:15 in low gear. Gear switching mechanism is now faster and more reliable. 5. Suspension is now pendular with a shock absorber in front and tandem axles with shock absorbes in the back. This allows the suspension to smoothly adjust to the terrain at slow speeds without wasting energy compressing the shock absorbers. At high speeds the shock aborbers smooth out the ride. In the picture below you can see the blue 1x7 beams which swing and allow the front suspension to act like pendular: 6. The model now has working fake engine(s) and steering wheel.I'm thinking of adding a hook arm with a winch in the back, so I can use this model to pull others out during trial truck races 7. Number of motors have been reduced by removing rear wheel steering and having one motor for the gearbox, allowing to add aditional functions as before mentioned hook arm. So...that's all about it for now, I'm only missing defender wheels to finish this monster. Yes it's going to be heavier and slower, but I expect it to be even more capable and reliable.
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Good Day. Got inspired to build this after an in-game motorcycle from Honkai impact 3rd Original idea was to use 2x XL motors, but it was boring af. Next obvious step were buggy motors - allowing an approximate speed of 10km/h. It could probably pick up a higher speed with BuWizz 2.0's Ludicrous mode, but fast mode of BW v1.0 is enough to topple the bike over when taking high-speed turns. Unfortunately it does require "training wheels" to ride straight, as it would lean on one side without those after taking a curve without those. The bike does feature rear axle suspension, and small wheels have shocks as well. "01" stickers reused from MPATEV, "police" from 42047. Design-wise it belong to the same "universe" as my spaceship and racers - an Axos Police bike used to patrol within city high-speed tunnels and surface operations. Video&photos, C&C very welcome and appreciated))) Cya later!
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Hello there! American all-wheel drive pickup from GMC. The model is built as a continuation of the Chevy K30 Big Dooley published in 2019. Of the main differences - the muzzle of an earlier generation, a shorter base, the design of the frame and bridges was changed. Planetary hubs and CV joints are used in driveshafts from 42099. Drive - for each axle by L motor. Steering - M motor, Power - BuWizz, a canister with gasoline in the back, spare wheel, shovel and a box of lemonade More photos -
The go-kart is one my most ambitious projects. To build it, it took over 7000 Lego pieces, 32 L motors, 8 BuWizz bricks, one BuWizz app update and hundreds of man-hours. The final build, can easily drive a 60+kg person with the top speed of 4km/h. The story of the go-kart starts right after finishing the video shoot of pulling the train card with the heavy transporter. The heavy transporter showed me that Lego pieces have the needed strength to carry and transport the weight of a person, albeit in that case quite slowly. So I got an idea to create a carrier which would use a higher amount of motors than the heavy transporter and have a higher speed. Unlike the 24 small wheels the transporter used, the new model would only use 4 wheels based on the Technic Gear rack 11 x 11 Curved. Work first began on the wheels. They had to be capable of carrying a total weight of around 60 kilograms. When dealing with such heavy weights and forces, the only way to succeed is to distribute the load over a high amount of bricks. In this case the wheels were designed with multiple parallel rings, each carrying part of the weight: The rings would be stacked onto each other to form the finished wheel: Each wheel is powered by a total of 8 L motors through a gearbox. The original idea was to gear the 8 L motors up 3x times using a combination of 24 and 8 tooth gears. But after testing the wheels I soon realized that we will need a lower gear ratio, so a combination of 20 and 12 tooth gears was used to gear up the motors by a factor of 1,67. The resulting gearing gave each wheel a top speed of around 4 km/h The wheels were further optimized during testing to use clutch 20 tooth gears as the main weight-bearing wheels instead of the original 12 tooth gears. This change helped the wheels to spin more even and it allowed the load-carrying axle to be stationary, reducing wear and tear. Since each wheel used a total of 8 L motors, a total of two BuWizz bricks were needed to power each wheel. With the wheels finished, it was time to build the frame of the go-kart. The frame is based on two main pieces, a 1x15 Technic beam and 7x5 Technic frame. The 7x5 frames are crucial to the rigidity of the frame, while the beams connect them all together. Of course there were also thousands of pins used to attach everything together. With the help of Lego Digital Designer I created the first sketch of the go-kart's frame: With the virtual model created, I now had an estimate of the needed parts. With that information, I started looking for the cheapest deals on Bricklink, updating the digital model was I got along. Red beams turned out to be the cheapest solution, and we ended up ordering around 850 of them. Total number of parts ended up at around 7000-8000 with over half of them being pins. Once the ordered parts were received, it was time to build the massive model, which took several days: During the assembly process, the frame and model have been further improved and reinforced in order to carry my own weight without excessive bending. The wheel rims were covered with adhesive window rubber insulation to add grip: The rear axle was flipped 90 degrees in order to increase its rigidity and the whole kart was split into several modules for easy assembly and maintenance. In fact the whole cart can be taken apart to a couple of modules and assembled in less than 10 minutes. A couple of custom stickers and the Go-Cart was finished: With all the mechanical problems solved, it was time to turn attention to the control of the model. Since each wheel uses a total of 2 BuWizz bricks, the whole model used a total of 8 BuWizz bricks. This resulted in a problem with control, since Android based phones can connect to a maximum of 7 Bluetooth devices at once. We decided to try to use an Apple based device to see if we can connect to 8 BuWizz bricks at once. There were no issues, so a simple Iphone 5 was chosen for main controller. The phone was integrated into the steering wheel: The control device also had to compensate for the difference of motor speeds when taking a corner. Due to the load on the wheels, a simple sharp turn could cause them to fail if we would not slow the inner wheels down when turning. We needed a way for the BuWizz app to know that the wheels are being turned. This is where I came up with the idea to use the phone's own internal accelometer to detect the steering position. Since the phone turns along with the steering wheel, it always knows in which position of the steering wheel. We asked our app developer to add a simple gyroscopic command to the app, which we then used as an input for our tracked steer mixer. I experimented with different mixer steering ratios and in the end settling with the factor 0,1. The finished model was also duplicated in LDD, where the final piece count is around 7500 bricks: Now that our go-cart was fully functional, it was time to head outside to give it a final test run in the real world and the record the following video: Few weeks later the Go-kart was also driven by kids on the Brick Planet exhibition: All the long hours designing in LDD, building, rebuilding, fixing, optimizing, the blood, sweat and tears, they were all worth it when you see how happy kids are driving the Go-kart!
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Hello: Has anyone had any success connecting a camera to the buwizz app to live stream the model's action? If so, what camera model are you using? Mike,
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Hello i would like too present you my next truck an MAN TGS 8X8 The model features 8X8 drive via 2XL motors with 4 Speed gearbox which is shiftet via 1 M motor. Steering is done via 1 Servo motor. The model was build for good offroad performance and high power, it weights around 3kg. The maximum slope it can do was 60% which is 30°. It is also able too drive in the garden in the sand. The challenge was building a strong drive train with a 4 speed gearbox in the small space. The front axles are pendular as well as the rear, i testet the front even with springs but pendular worked for me better in the terrain. The model can even be driven with pf ir receveirs and battery box. The tipping is done via 1 L motor and a self build worm gear drive because a linear actuator was too big. This model is powerd by an buwizz which works great but also was challenging because i switcht mid building too it which meant i had too redo the gearbox many times because of the new power. If you got any questions feel free to ask
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For an exhibition I made a small Corvette-scaled car with an RC motor powering rear wheels. Powered by Buwizz, that model turned to be totally uncontrollable, with epic amount of oversteer at low speed and underster at high speed. So I got an idea. Why not make a 4x4 version of a miniature car? My worries were that the added complexity needed to power the front wheels will increase the complexity, weight and reduce the performance... But I decided to give it a shot anyway. The first version used a chain drive to front the front wheels from the rear axle, but that was soon scrapped due to the poor strength of the chain. So after replacing the chain drive with an axial driveline, I came up with this little, yet powerful model. The front wheels are an older 49,6 x 28VR type which use softer rubber than the rear ones. This way the car tends to oversteer less: In the rear DUAL 49,5 X 20 are used to give it as much traction area as possible: The bodywork can easily be removed to expose a torque-tube sytled chassis and a simple interrior: A servo motor steers the front wheels via a rack. Maximum steering angle is around 22,5 degrees: 3x11 panels are used as the main chassis, giving the model very high rigidity, while keeping the weight low: According to LDD the model is made of less than 400 bricks, less than to the upcoming 42109: The front wheels are powered directly by the rear axle via 20:12----12:20 gear sequence. There are no differentials, since the model reaches high enough speeds for wheels to understeer and slip in the corners anyway. Technical specs: Length: 25 cm Width: 14 cm Height: 10 cm Weight: 575 g Theoretical top speed: ~18 km/h Even with 4x4 drive, the racer still powerslides all 4 wheels even in just the normal mode, as you can see in the quick and drity slo-mo gif I made: I was pleasantly suprised by the amount of control you get with the added FWD. No longer am I at the mercy of the rear wheels to stop the car from crashing into a wall. Accelreation is of course much better, making this one of the fastest accelerating models I made. Oversteer has been reduced, but there is still plenty of power left to powerslide the model with all 4 wheels spinning. Stay tuned for a proper video showing off the performance soon.
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I have only been building my creations with EV3 but for a long time now I thought about getting a BuWizz. It's a good price right now. I'm really interested in how amazing this product is and I would be excited to make the transition to PF/BuWizz powered cars, so I have to get a servo motor and a few L motors to go with it. What is your opinion on buying a BuWizz 2.0? What PF parts should I buy to go with it to make car MOCs? Thank you for your feedback.
