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Showing results for tags 'buggy motors'.
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I gathered here all my W.I.P.s that I plan to do. Also, from now on, I will put in this topic MOCs too instead of making different topics for each. ”Retro styled buggy” - 1x upgeared buggy motor that wont work probably (because of the upgearing and its 740 grams / 26.10 ounces), 1x servo, independent suspension on all wheels and detachable body (with huge wing, that most likely will make the model tip on the back). It takes some ”shapes” from the Tamiya Avante Mk.1. ”Test X” - a rear wheel-drive model which was meant for speed with the PF XL motors - nonsense, I know. That is why I pretty much renounced at it when I finished the first version. It has independent suspension on al wheels, 2x upgeared XL motors, 1x servo and has a modified Flat baja II front frame. ”APACHAIHAPACHAI 15 stud chassis mod” - this, but with 2x buggy motors. Also, great work @apachaihapachai ! ”Technic Tamiya Neo Fighter buggy” - based on a Tamiya RC buggy, but unlike the RC buggy, it has a 4x4 drive-line. Fitted 2x buggy motors and 1x servo, removable body-work, positive caster-angle and full independent suspension. Als, the weight is just under 900g (pretty decent, considering it is a 4x4 and that has a pretty body plus some useless pieces to simulate the electric motor of the real thing). One of the hardest parts that still have to be done is the battery hub frames, which don`t fit in the pretty small body. ”Technic Tamiya BBX BB-01 buggy” - encountering huge problems with the rear suspension arms on the Technic BBX, I kind of canceled it. But the idea was too great to let it just be unfinished. So I returned at the 2nd model file I made, which had 2 motors and an updated rear swing-arms, but visually it was a mess and I think that didn`t work as well. In any case, I am working on a 4th redesign; the renders are from the 3rd one. ”Flat baja-truck MAXX” - with chassis based on the looks and ideas of the HPI Jumpshot SC RC baja, it has 4x4 drive from 2x buggy motors and 1x servo. As main features, it has a (pretty big) positive caster-angle, independent suspension on all arms, consolidated steering rack, space for lights in the front and in the back, plenty of space for the battery hubs, detachable body and, the cherry on the cake, the distance between the suspension arms is 0 studs, enhancing the suspension behavior and travel. The front and rear are heavily modified frames from the ”Something 4x4”, a kind of a study created for testing the same idea for spacing the suspension arms while integrating a 4x4 driveline. P.S.: At its a little over 1 kg / 35.27 ounces, this will sure need another pair of shocks. I will see how I will put them. Also, I want to do a version with RC hobby-grade electronics. And here is a closer look at the rear frame with 0 studs between the suspension arms. This is a modified frame from the ”Something 4x4” from the bottom of the post. ”Ruslan baja-truck” - based on the Eagle V2 trophy-truck - thanks to @Daniel-99 for helping me with recreating some parts of his build. It has 2x buggy motors, 1x servo-motor, (big) positive caster-angle, easily removable sides, space for about 5x light systems (1/2x back and 3x front )and 4x 9.5L hard shocks for the 4-links suspension at the rear and independent at the front. I am planning to make a version with RC hobby-grade parts in it. Here are the original topics: ”Flat baja-truck II” - same features as the first one, but this time 100% of the design is mine and also it has less parts while it has a smoother look (for me). i am still working on the instructions, so until the final steps, I only have one render with it :/ I have another bunch of W.I.P.s, but most of them I don`t consider to finish at all. You can find all of them in the ”General archive” on my Bricksafe. Most notable ones are the (I wont add descriptions because you can find the Studio files on Bricksafe): ”Red Yeti chassis” ”Superstar” ”Something 4x4” ”Bathtub dragster” -
Hello EB friends! Today, I'm getting to work on a new project - a 4x4 rock crawler to compete in our upcoming Toronto Truck Trial in August. I've always wanted to try my hand at a rock crawler, but somehow never came around to it until now. It seems like the perfect opportunity to make the best offroad vehicle - faster than a large 6x6 or 8x8 trial truck, but still having excellent offroad capabilities with large ground clearance, huge suspension travel, oversized wheels, and the perfect excuse to omit bodywork entirely and make a light, nimble machine. To make the best rock crawler I can, I'm going to draw inspiration from a couple of my past creations (the parts of them that went well) as well as from some other builders' MOCs. First of all, I'm going to reuse the general axle design I used in my Praga 6x6 Trial Truck, which was inspired by @Attika's design in his offroader: To power this crawler, I want to get the best power-to-weight ratio I can. Since I'm limited to 2 x buggy motors and a BuWizz 2.0 - that's all I've got and I don't plan to invest more money at the moment - the only solution is to keep the truck as lightweight as possible. In my latest RAM pickup truck I was very pleased with the performance it achieved in low gear using 2 buggy motors and planetary hubs. Because I will be using larger crawling tires, I will reduce the ratio further for this build compared to the pickup, using the same 12-tooth bevel gear, 28 tooth bevel gears pairing as in my Praga at the axle, for a ratio of 2.33:1, rather than the ratio with the 20-tooth bevel gear, 28-tooth differential, as on my pickup, which has a ratio of 1.4:1. Overall, because my 3rd party crawler tires have about double the radius of the 62.4 x 20 tires on the pickup, and so double the circumference and double the speed, the ratios will more or less cancel out and the crawler will have the same speed and torque as the pickup, which was plenty. Indeed, it may be a bit faster, but it will also be lighter to account for it. If I got any of that math wrong, please feel free to correct me, but it makes sense to me that the speed is proportional to the wheel circumference and therefore the wheel radius, by the formula 2 * pi * r for circumference. Next, I'm going to just omit differentials entirely. I think the truck should be light enough to not need them, although the grippier tires may slow it down in the corners where diffs are necessary. For the suspension, I want to try my hand at building a four-link triangulated suspension, partly because it looks fun, and partly because it offers the advantage of being able to connect the axle to a small body, that doesnt need to extend all the way over the axle to accomodate a Panhard stabilizer rod. I think I will take inspiration for that from @PunkTacoNYC's awesome Chilli Crawler: In summary, then, here are the current specifications, ideas and goals for this build: 2 x buggy motors mounted in the body for drive, PF servo in the front axle for steering; BuWizz 2.0 for power Lightweight build overall to keep weight minimal and improve power/weight ratio - little to no bodywork, and short wheelbase Triangulated 4-link suspension to enable a smaller, lighter body, using the suspension links on the front axle to create a mild caster angle Planetary hub live axle suspension, as from my Praga truck, inspired by Attika - I just can't think of any way to improve on these, they're so simple, robust, and elegant, and have very precise steering and great ground clearance The first step is to adapt the front axle for this build. I will make it two studs wider to account for the larger tires, and I have to figure out mounting points for the suspension links and shock absorbers. Other than that, I will leave it untouched, as it just has it all. The planetary hubs and bevel gears together create a mechanical reduction of 12.6:1, which is excellent for how compact it is. The hub + defender rim combination keeps the pivot very close to the center of the tire, making the steering more effective. Attika's clever design gives it excellent ground clearance. And, importantly, mounting the servo on the axle gives it excellent precision with return-to-center steering, something rare for a heavy-duty axle, and it is very robust with the double-racked steering mechanism - I can't remember who recommended that to me in the past, but it's brilliant. Here, then, is the beginning of the front axle, widened by 2 studs: I'm excited for this build - I think it's going to have some nice performance! As always, I'm happy to take tips and suggestions from you guys - please pitch in! -Teo -
Hello everyone! I have been lazy in the last two months with making new posts... But today I would like to snow you my DEEP MOD of a Lego 42099 set. This project was build in September of 2021, so it was build tested, improved and disassembled quite some time ago . Features: Original body of 42099 with custom RC chassis 4-wheel drive independent suspension with positive caster of all 4 wheels Double steering arms (for stability in jumps and bumps) Ackerman steering geometry with minimized stress on the joints 2 x Buwizz motors for propulsion C+ L-motor for steering 2 x Buwizz 3.0 for power (one unit is enought but I used two for longer driving distance) Total mass ~1,2 kg Planetary hubs, and fast output of Buwizz motors provides a lot of torque and a decent speed The beginning of the project Last summer I build myself a Red coupe. It was a good car, which is cool to drive. But,.. It was not adapted for the Russian roads . After several bumps and crashes, I decided to build a car that will overcome all obstacles on the road. So I started a new project, and all the circumstances (which will be shown later) strongly influenced the outcome! Then I was building a Red Coupe, I needed more red parts, so I bought two Ducati 42107 sets. I got charmed by new motorcycle wheels (i was dreaming of a car with such wheels)! The motorcycle wheels are light and have big diameter, that is important on the bumpy roads, so the wheels for my project were found. Also, at the very beginning of September I bought myself a 42099 set and I wanted to improve it with my new Buwizz motors. With 42099 I get planetary hubs which I desired to test from the time of their appearance, so all the choices was made! Underlying Ideas The main goal was to make a car with buggy motors (Buwizz motors) and a strong suspension. Also I waned to use planetary hubs since the original 42099 car has them. I have already learned that to be able to control a fast car, you need a well-designed steering system. As a minimum it should have a positive caster, and the double steering arms will also strengthen the steering system at the bumps.The main question for me was the following: Should I try myself in building front wheels drive, or not? Red Coupe project give me quite some experience in building solid suspension with positive caster: with steering at the front and with drive motors (without steering) at the back, but I never build a front wheels drive with positive caster and Ackerman steering geometry! My head was troubled with a problem: How can one fit differential and steering rack and a "broken car frame" (for castor) in between front wheels? Well, after a month of thinking, and multiple unsuccessful attempts, I found the solution. The idea was to make a horizontal car frame with suspension arms angled! My build is a little bit "illegal" since it uses the right triangle with side lengths 4,4,1, but it totally works with admissible Lego flexibility (an axle in a pinhole can wobble a bit). The steering motor and a steering rack was placed over the differential. The last problem it the project was with front joints. I waned to minimize the stress from the suspension travel and the steering. Since the car frame was build horizontal while the suspension arms were build at the positive angle, it was impossible to make the drive shaft lined with suspension arms... I placed the output of the differential a bit further to the front of the car, so the drive shaft was going a bit backwards from the differentials to the wheel hubs. This trick allowed me to make an Ackerman geometry without limiting the steering angle (in order to keep the front joints alive). After I overcome all the problems with the front wheels drive, the rest of the car was build by one evening! The drive shaft I used the fast outputs of Buwizz motors (one motor for front and the back). After that i speed them up with 20:12 ratio and connect to the differentials (20:28). Finally, planetary hubs slow the speed by 5.5 times.... Planetary hubs allowed me to have a bigger steering angle, but they slowed the car dramatically ;-) Although the max speed is good: ~7 km/h, so it is quite fan to drive the car during a wak in the park. 4x4 drive and proper suspension with good ground clearance (comparing to the Red coupe) make the driving experience very relaxing: no worrying about the bumps on the road! I can prove my words with a short video: Conclusion As a conclusion, I can say, that this project was very challenging for me, but the result is very satisfying: I really enjoyed driving it around my neighborhood. The main drawback of the model is that the Buggy motors uses too much power, and most of this power transforms into torque, and the car has way way more torque it will ever need!
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I know that there are topics similar to this one, but they don't provide a solution to my questions . I'm trying to find out about the compatibility of 3rd party RC components, so that I can use them to fully power 2 buggy motors (or more). And this is how I plan to use them: Transmitter* -> Reciever/ESC* (and battery) -> Buggy motors and RC Servo -> Lego built car. *What I need to get. Here are my questions: What is the minimum of 3rd party components that I need? How good is the compatibility of different brands of Transmitter, Receiver/ESC, and RC servo? (most important question!) Is a ESC the same as a Receiver? What have you used or recommend? (because I know some of you have done something like this before) I already have got 2s and 3s lipos (but I would prefer to use the 11.1 volts of the 3s), I only have toy-grade RC car experience (not hobby-grade), and I don't want to spend more than AUD $50 (for everything) if possible. I know these questions are not technically about Lego, but I will be using it with Lego, and I thought that that some of you have experience with RC - so might be able to help . -
I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy! -
Hello! I'm back with another MOC, most likely the last one for a long time as I'm rapidly approaching a Lego dark-age of my own (college). This time around I'm finishing off my series of high-speed vehicles with a special rally-style chassis. It is my best handling version so far and it actually has bodywork (more of a tubular rollcage). Details: RC - featuring the custom electronics I've been using for previous versions. Link for those who haven't seen my setup yet. 4 Buggy motors for drive (2 driving each rear wheel, disconnected in the middle). Servo steering (normal Lego servo). 4 Wheel independent suspension - rear includes anti-roll bar and shorter top links while the front has caster and active camber due to shorter top link. Both axles have modified pneumatic cylinders acting as springs+dampers together. Extremely sturdy chassis with little to no twist (I tried hard to twist it from end to end, doesn't budge) plus sturdy rollcage that can be used to pick up the MOC. 3D printed wheels by efferman, as well as 3D printed spherical gear counterparts that act as really strong CV joints. The sturdy construction allows the suspension to work as intended, absorbing every bump. Here is the video: And now for a photo dump: Hope you guys like it! Sorry purists
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Hello, Today I present to you my rc Rock Crawler. This machine is almost two years in the making, and it has gone through many revisions over time. The crawler features: two buggy motors for propulsion two speed gearbox (remotely switched) independent front and rear steering linked pendular suspension The body is very similar to a trophy truck, though it is not based off any real life truck. Bodywork is not my favorite, so it took the longest! In order to go around the limits set by the pf recievers, the buggy motors are attached to switches that are then directly attached to the battery boxes. The servo motor shown is used to turn the switch, causing the truck to go forwards or backwards. I stole this clever design from efferman, so all credits got to him. The two speed gearbox takes advantage of both outputs on the buggy motors, with the low speed coming from the slower of the two motor outputs. Though it works well indoors, the high speed does not have enough power to work well outdoors. Below you can see the switching mechanism as well as the gearbox itself. The best part about the crawler is the two axles. Designing the axles was the most challenging part of the build, as I wanted to have a solid base for the rest of the model. In order to slow down the buggy motors, a lot of reduction occurs in the middle of the axle. The process was made significantly easier when I got the new portal axles from the 41999 BOSS Set. In this photo you can also see the turntables. With all the space taken up by the gears, it was difficult to fit in the steering. The linked pendular suspension was achieved by connected the two turntables via a differential. While one side goes up, the other goes down. This setup has the advantage of not needing linkages or suspension, as well as greater travel. Here is the video, with plenty of driving out in the snow! Follow me on facebook for the latest updates and photos! https://www.facebook.com/timslegos More HIGH RESOLUTION photos can be found here. http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=538172 I would appreciate feedback, this is only my second studless creation . tim -
The previous attempt at a large scale car failed because it was not strong enough for the drivetrain, and my attempts to make a sturdy chassis around it were not so great because of the vertical placement of the buggy motors. I have sitting on my desk now, a 2nd attempt at a large scale rc, with a much more simple and robust suspension, which will eventually use the new f1 hubs, at the moment I used the dark bley mog hub because of it's dimensions. I placed the buggy motors in a clever fashion, so there are many bracing opportunities for the rest of the chassis and the rear axle. Because of the eventual weight of the vehicle I had to put a combination of various shocks to get a perfect balance between soft and stiff-soft enough that it will absorb bumps and jumps but stiff enough that it wont bottom out (hit the ground) because there is a lot of travel and not that much clearance, and I will use the same wheels/tires as on the 42000. Photos: Enjoy!
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Hi everyone, have a good update. I abandoned my trial truck as it lost efficiency with many gears, and I have multiple WIP's on my desk, but at the moment i'm focused on my first large scale car, but it will be a fast RC, so no gearboxes or extra weight. This is mostly focused on performance..So far, I have done the rear axle and drivetrain. Special thanks to nicjasno, for making videos and pictures of his brilliant suspension ideas. I reverse engineered his rear multi-link suspension and reinforced it so it will stay together and work at high speed. This high speed will be possible with two buggy motors driving it from the 'slower' output, each powered by one of my rechargeable 10 volt batteries. Next I will figure out the front axle, most likely something from nicjasno again. One concern is the Remote...we really need a new remote, with proportional control (so I don't destroy my differentials) that has good response and maybe even radio control so I don't look like an idiot running after my MOCs! I realize a new remote/receiver would be expensive, but I'd pay for it because I'm annoyed by the poor response from train remote and the VERY low range of Infrared, especially outside. I know this is because Lego is an 'indoor toy' but some of us take playability to the next level, so maybe just release it as a separate power functions module? Here's pics and video BTW video (better camera but I screwed up the focus experimenting with various formats and such also, sorry) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBpd_pYRSEs
