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Hello, everyone! Here is the first creation I have completed in 6 years. I used only pure LEGO parts and Powered Up components. Weight: 1475g (including 6 AA batteries) Features: - 2x L motor for propulsion - 1x L motor for steering - 1x M motor for High/Low gearbox - Self-locking differentials - Linked pendular suspension - Detachable body and removable top - Openable hood, doors, rear hatch and tailgate Video: The main feature is self-locking differential system. Basic idea was the same as I put into modified rm8's Toyota Hilux in 2019. When one axle articulates to the limit, orange shifter rotates and diff lock engages. This time I also added center diff lock which engages when axle linkage moves to the limit. Since both axles and the linkage between them move together, all three diff lock engage simultaneously when suspension couldn't soak up the bumps. Rear suspension travel is longer than front because the pivot of linkage is off-centered. Additionally, rear axle is positioned slightly lower than front. This can be done thanks to the flexibility of some connection point. Steering system has a pivot on the same axis as roll center of front axle. Therefore suspension movement barely causes bump steer. The upper body looks narrow because of one stud width of the edge of beltline like 42213 Ford Bronco. Last but not least unique feature is the way of fixing body to the chassis. First, hook the back side of grill on the front end of chassis. Then switch four levers to fixed position. In a way, this model is the successor to my Jeep Wrangler built in 2017. I tried to pack more features in the same wheelbase as Jeep. Eventually its heavier weight required the use of planetary hubs. Which means the model became powerful but very slow. Unexpectedly off-road capability wasn't so good. Since diff-lock system depends on the movement of suspension, it didn't work when any wheel lost their grip and started spinning even on a gentle incline or slippery surface. But I am happy with the result because I realized that I still could make something even after losing love, money and lots of hair! Building instructions at Rebrickable. -
Hi! This thread is meant to document my first build using a custom brushless motor. If you follow the "Brushless Motors in Lego" thread you may have seen the motor design, but I give a quick summary here as well. Apart from the brushless drive motor, I am using a GeekServo for steering, and control them with an RC pistol transmitter/receiver. So lately I started experimenting with 3d printing lego compatible mounts for brushless motors. I bought a small Injora Purple Viper motor with a corresponding ESC to control it; they come in a package for about 50 Eur, that includes a 11T gear and mounting screws as well. The idea was to make a motor that fits into a 3x3x6 space including a two stage planetary reduction, which is taken out from a 3rd party PF M motor (costs about 3 Eur on AliExpress). Apart from these parts, only the 3d printed housing is needed. The result looks like this, more info in this thread. The key to this design is that it is possible to run a driveshaft right below the motor, furthermore, there's even space for heavy duty CV joints, as the motor itself is narrower: There are two obvious gearing options, 16:16 and 20:12. I checked Injora's transmissions that are applied with these motors, and they also come in two options, the "normal" provides a 1:13 down-gearing, and the "underdrive" version provide a 1:24 ratio. Since the two stage planetary reduction from the M motor is about a 1:24 down-gearing, applying a 16:16 on the output results in exactly the "underdrive" ratio, while applying the 20:12 up-gearing on the output results in a 1:14.5 total down-gearing, which is roughly the same as the "normal" ratio with the Injora transmission, so there's a pretty good speed correspondence here with RC parts. By the way, these Injora parts are designed to be a drop in replacement for TRX4M Traxxas models. So this was the starting point for my chassis, and I wanted to see first how small a 4x4 off-roader I can build, aiming for 56mm tires and two live axles. I also happened to have some soft and sticky Injora tires too that I wanted to try for a couple of years now.. For the front axle, I have been wanting to test this tricky wheel mount technique I have seen used by some builders around here, making it possible to use heavy duty CV joints at this small scale (9-wide axle between the pivots), combined with my linkage based steering techniques I used before: This is a fairly slim and dense axle for what it achieves, quite happy with it, however it misses two upper links, and the panhard rod also proved to be a bit far away, so it became a bit wobbly under the power of the servo, so I had to use other tricks to make the axle stable.. For the rear axle, my aim was to make it as flat as possible to be able to run beams right above it without obscuring the trunk space. It is an often used negative caster (torque tube suspension) setup with only one CV joint and two links and a panhard rod for stabilization. The springs are also mounted on the back to be able to lower them and so that they don't protrude to the trunk. A chassis that holds all these components together came out quite slim as well, I'm really happy that it actually looks somewhat like real RC chassis platforms! The servo is mounted fairly low at the front, and there's just enough clearance for the drivetrain even when the axle is articulated. Another key element is that the servo is in between the springs, and right behind the front axle's cross beam, and it actually stabilizes the axle, not allowing it to move too much sideways or tilt forward/backward (just enough to let it articulate freely). These limiters together with the panhard rod make the front axle stable enough so that the servo does not pull it sideways when steering, resulting in a really good steering response and a quite high steering angle! As you can see, there's plenty of space left for building internals / body and also for placing a battery and ESC/receiver to the trunk. For now, I have mounted these items with tacks onto the chassis for testing, it looks like this: As for performance, I don't yet have a video, but I am pretty amazed by this little thing. Speed control is just very smooth at startup, and with those RC tires, it can climb steep ledges with such confidence that I never thought possible with lego parts. First I tried the 16:16 gearing, but I though it does have enough torque for the faster one, so now I swapped it to 20:12, which has the advantage that the gear below sticks out less, and it does not get caught up so much from the bottom. Also, this way the top speed is very good, like something with a buggy motor (or two), but with much better speed control (and steering). Will make a test video soon, just need to practise filming while driving.. :) And the next step will be: building a bodywork; I'm thinking of a small Jeep, like a CJ or a Suzuki Samurai, but ideas are welcome printing some casing for the battery / ESC / receiver to enhance their placement / cable management (in the trunk) -
These days all we have a lot of free time, excepting the public services, who are working working hard for us. This is an small tribute to all these people. The URO 4x4 is mainly used in Spain by the firefighters, but also for the UME (Military Emergency Unit). I´ve tried to replicate it with Lego Thecnic, but trying to get the closest appearance instead a lot os mechanism. Just suspensions and winch. Even with this, is so heavy! Aprox 3 Kg and more than 60 cm long. Hope you like it! And the original one. Really a big beast! -
Here is my take on the motorization of the 42110. Basically the whole model was lifted to accomodate the bigger wheel, motors and BuWizzes. Model is powered by a total of 8 motors, 4L motors for RWD, 2L motors for FWD, one servo and one M motor. Total gear ratio is 1:3. It uses custom portal hubs in the front which have a pivot even closer than normal ones thanks to the new rims. Rear uses normal hubs and wheels, since they are sturdier. Axles use the original suspension's upper arms as mounting points along with a pair of 9L links for each axle. The original gearbox is connected to the rear drive, so it works normally. Steering is also connected to the original links, so steerign wheel and HOG also turn when steering Winch is motorized using an M motor. Video coming soon. -
Hello there! American all-wheel drive pickup from GMC. The model is built as a continuation of the Chevy K30 Big Dooley published in 2019. Of the main differences - the muzzle of an earlier generation, a shorter base, the design of the frame and bridges was changed. Planetary hubs and CV joints are used in driveshafts from 42099. Drive - for each axle by L motor. Steering - M motor, Power - BuWizz, a canister with gasoline in the back, spare wheel, shovel and a box of lemonade More photos -
Hey everyone! First of all Happy New Year to everybody! Here's my last MOC of 2019, a URAL 4320 4x4 Trial Truck. It features: -working steering with servo motor and adjustable working steering wheel -4x4 drive with 2 differentials powered by 2 x power functions XL motors, and fed by 2 x 2.0 pf receivers and 2 x lithium battery boxes -opening doors -working lights A couple pictures of the model, more on here: https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/Teo_LEGO_Technic/ural-truck My main goal with this project was to make a robust trial truck with tons of ground clearance and tons of torque and solid steering, while not having anything be at risk of breaking. For this reason I have an XL on each axle, as a 5 x 7 frame with a differential can hold the full torque of one XL without damage to the gears. Extra torque was achieved by using the Unimog portal axles. The truck can stand Sariel's wall test, i.e. when the wheels lock up on a grippy terrain no gears break anywhere. The steering is also precise, with no intermediate gears between the servo motor and the rack and pinion system. It too can handle the full power of the servo without any danger of breakage. The suspension too is robust and meant to operate as smoothly as possible. Putting the battery boxes low down on the sides helps it be as difficult to topple over as possible, bearing in mind how high it is off the ground. My secondary goal was to emulate the rugged look of Ural trucks, which only look as good as they should when every little curve and angle is modelled like the real thing. This includes the curvature of the front grill, the form of the bonnet, the angled headlight frames, and the subtly angles and tilted front windshield. I'm fairly satisfied with the result, and overall it's a truck I'm pretty happy with. Nothing super fancy, no gearbox, just a solid chassis and a good-looking body. Hope you guys enjoyed it!! -
For an exhibition I made a small Corvette-scaled car with an RC motor powering rear wheels. Powered by Buwizz, that model turned to be totally uncontrollable, with epic amount of oversteer at low speed and underster at high speed. So I got an idea. Why not make a 4x4 version of a miniature car? My worries were that the added complexity needed to power the front wheels will increase the complexity, weight and reduce the performance... But I decided to give it a shot anyway. The first version used a chain drive to front the front wheels from the rear axle, but that was soon scrapped due to the poor strength of the chain. So after replacing the chain drive with an axial driveline, I came up with this little, yet powerful model. The front wheels are an older 49,6 x 28VR type which use softer rubber than the rear ones. This way the car tends to oversteer less: In the rear DUAL 49,5 X 20 are used to give it as much traction area as possible: The bodywork can easily be removed to expose a torque-tube sytled chassis and a simple interrior: A servo motor steers the front wheels via a rack. Maximum steering angle is around 22,5 degrees: 3x11 panels are used as the main chassis, giving the model very high rigidity, while keeping the weight low: According to LDD the model is made of less than 400 bricks, less than to the upcoming 42109: The front wheels are powered directly by the rear axle via 20:12----12:20 gear sequence. There are no differentials, since the model reaches high enough speeds for wheels to understeer and slip in the corners anyway. Technical specs: Length: 25 cm Width: 14 cm Height: 10 cm Weight: 575 g Theoretical top speed: ~18 km/h Even with 4x4 drive, the racer still powerslides all 4 wheels even in just the normal mode, as you can see in the quick and drity slo-mo gif I made: I was pleasantly suprised by the amount of control you get with the added FWD. No longer am I at the mercy of the rear wheels to stop the car from crashing into a wall. Accelreation is of course much better, making this one of the fastest accelerating models I made. Oversteer has been reduced, but there is still plenty of power left to powerslide the model with all 4 wheels spinning. Stay tuned for a proper video showing off the performance soon.
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Another MOD of the fantastic 8081 set is done! Styled after a LR Defender pickup, this MOD features the following: 4x4 drive. Steering Front and Rear live axle suspension with Panhard rods Opening doors and tailgate Seating for four V-8 fake engine Roll cage Fischertechnic 80mm tires. Full album is here. Driveline From the left Articulation I'm still working on the sport pickup, but this should be good for now. -
Hi there, I've developed a very annoying habit in the last few years. I randomly build pickups and other 4x4's. Even bought a real one. Anyway, the latest one is quite a biggy (sizewise) thanks to the planetary hubs. I've found a trick build them into solid axles with a practical ground clearance. This trick is going to be conroversial here. But start up with the video instead: All pics to be found here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Attika77/ultimate-pickup In the comments under the video, noble members of our community noted, that there are parts which could solve the 1/4 stud misery. (if you don't know what is that, off you go, and whatch the video to the end! ) One of these is the 14t gear from the old diffs: I've made the attempt, but due to that collar on the bottom (top on the pic) it is too wide and puts srain on the drivline, making it hard to turn it by hand, so it is off the table unfortunatelly. So I speak for myself when I say, cuting those axles worth it. Not a rare piece, and costs 1 cent on bricklink, but only because there is no smaller value in the currency itself. In return the design prooved itself very reliable. Another "weakness" of the axle is the inperfect geometry. The wheelhubs aren't completelly vertical. There is about 1 degree tilting inside on the top. /---\ Before overdramatising this atribute, think, if you've noticed it in the video? Apart from the axles, the rest of the truck is the product of those years I've mentioned above. The essence of it is a simplest possible drivetrain: And a steering solution refined for non-rack steering: (The render is made of an older version, hence the different connector) If you don't belive your eyes, yes I choose to use 4x2 beams to form steering arms. It looks savage, but it is doing the job very well, brings ackerman geometry in the game. It does not hold the wheels rock solid of course, but in practicality it isn't noticable on the field. I've got a rack steering solution as well, but that brings the servo down A, onto the front axle (I don't do that. Ever ) B, into the mid chassis, where I don't have room for that. So we keep that for another build. Also has a working steering wheel using the rear output from the servo. ame old bevel system I've been using in most of my builds. Check the 1st episode of the pickup saga for more on that. Suspension Solid axles on a 3 link setup. It is kinda made up design, slightly inspired by the rear suspension of my Isuzu Trooper. Changing the shocks, or their hinge point on the top, gives 3 different ride height and suspension stiffness. The black, soft springs give a softer, relaxed, lower stance to it, while the dark grey shocks (known from the set 8880) are lifting the truck to a practical maximum, but still can reach full articulation. Not in all situations good to have your truck up in the sky. Like the climbing in the video. With low shock setting it made 52 degrees, but 47 "only" on big wheels and lifted shocks. The center of gravity moves with your ground clearance. That's about it, the rest is smoke-screen, like the body, and fancy doors. Oh, here is a fun fact: When it came to the seats, I realised I have 2 adjustable seats salvaged from a lorry build from about 5 years ago. Luckily they fit perfect so just made a rear bench in the same style. A non adjustable lazy style. Please feel free to ask about it, or just say something about cutting axles. I hope you find something useful here to take home with you. -
Hey everyone, Here's my newest MOC, the Audi Quattro group B rally car. Hope you guys like it! Final by Teo's Technic, on Flickr It has -working steering with servo motor -4x4 drive with 2 x L motors and independent suspension -two speed RC gearbox -headlights -opening doors and hood. DSC06195 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06203 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr Final2 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr DSC06198 by Teo's Technic, on Flickr
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This MOC is almost one year old and was made to participate in Moscow BrickFest 2019 Trophy&Trial competition. According to rules of competition, models need to have differential on both axles. I wanted to make a model with independent suspension and decent drive ability and that is the main reason for engineering solutions in this model, including old differentials being shifted towards the middle of the chassis. The drivetrains are organized with swinging gear meshing which are acting like inner CV-joint. - 2 L-motors for propulsion - Servo-motor for steering - Li-Po battery block - SBrick for control Front suspension is independent and based on McPherson strut suspension. Front wheel are supported with strut and lower arms. Rubbers bands on lower arms are used as springing elements. Lower arms are made of thin liftarms to make driven axle possible with good clearance. All three motors are integrated in front suspension, being as low as possible to ensure low center of gravity and enough space in chassis for shifted differentials. Rear suspension is just another classic double wishbone suspension with pretty long travel. On the rear I used planetary hubs from 42099 set to ensure that CV-joint won't break under the load. Wheels rotation speed is synchronized via gear ratios, drivetrains to front and rear axles are separated and each one uses its own motor. Suspension is quite soft and sink a little under it own weight but keeps about middle position during driving. Overall design was inspired by Safari editions of classic Porsche 911. And some WIP-photos: WIP-photos with first prototype of strut, that was broken by rubber bands tension : And some boastful photo of suspension travel I think of this model as of unfinished, but I don't have neither time or will to finish it, especially regarding the exterior. I have plans for another iteration of "Porsche-like" offroader with another unusual drivetrain. Thank you for you attention! I will appreciate any comments. -
- 4x4 - Spring shocks suspension at the front - Leaf springs at the rear - Opening doors with locks, bonnet, tailgate - Removable body - 2L, Servo, IR, LiPo *** -
Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! But this time I have prepared something special! Meet the Chevrolet K10 Silverado!!! Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985 For the first time I used the construction of the chassis separately from the body, that is, the body can be easily removed and any other body can be built on the chassis. -
Mini Truck Model 7, Pinzgauer 710. 1/14.I’m used to calling it,‘little Tatar’.full suspension Tatra-type,Truck Trial Model. L motor x2 +new wheel hubs, Servo motor x1.Infomation: W16 x L32 x H17 cm. Simple and good playability, I hope you'll like it. Instructions for free https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-59691/dpi2000/lego-mini-truck-pinzgauer-710-114-moc/#details -
Welcome to my garage LEGO!!! Hello! My name is Michael. I'm a Builder from Russia, I love muscle cars! Chevrolet K10 Silverado 1985 Description: - 2 L motor for drive - Servo motor for steering and steering wheel - 1 Small power supply ( Hot swap ) - Counterfeit engine under the hood (connected to motors) - Detailed interior - Doors, hood and trunk open - Swap body -4x4 Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/lego_muscle_garage/ Join my group in VK: https://vk.com/legomusclegarage All photos on the link: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Michael217/chevrolet-k10-silverado-1985-update Trailer: - Platform lift - Working ramps - Retractable front wheel
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Hi, legofans! I have always been interested in American cars 70-80 years. In the list of some of the most unusual, I would place this here! Get acquainted my new creation of 2019 - Lego Chevrolet Silverado K30 Dually Crew Cab (Big Dooley) 4x4 lifted (absolute champion in title length) 1:13 Scale model of 1986 Chevrolet Silverado K30 crew cab dually. All wheel drive on two solid axles and 6 wheels with 68 mm RC4WD tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO1) The modular design (body cabin and chassis are separate elements connected by 7 points) Electrics include: BuWizz, XL motor, M motor and LED lights Specifications: 1:13 Scale All wheel drive 68 mm RC4WD tires (copy of BF Goodrich A/T KO1) Solid Axles The modular design (body cabin and chassis are separate elements connected by 7 points) Electrics: BuWizz brick (or AAA Lego battery box/LiPo unit + IR V2 Reciever/SBrick) – battery and receiver XL motor - movement M motor – steering 2 LED lights iOS/Android smartphone/pad with BuWizz app – Remote control More information and photos you can find on my blog page. Building instruction is available now Video:
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Pan Dong presents. New mini truck, they are based on Unimog trucks. 4 wheel steering, this function is the focus of the building. Short wheelbase, portal axles, lightweight body. Two chassis models, like a RC car, one has server motor for steering, the other linear actuator and M motor . But , Both have the problem of turning to the imaginary position. L motor x2 for drive. I hope you'll like it.thankyou for watching. 樂高科技迷你卡車,Unimog 406/427，董攀設計，謝謝觀看！ 這次拼裝的重點，在相對較短的軸距，實現四輪轉向，然後輕量化車身結構，模擬RC車的懸架扭動姿態。有兩種底盤模式，一個採用伺服馬達轉向，另一個是小推桿加M馬達。兩個L馬達驅動，RC輪胎。四輪轉向真是靈活很多，攀爬時候的優勢明顯，不過因為前後各採用兩組萬向節傳動，導致有明顯的虛位問題。伺服馬達轉向，效率直接，但是轉向有類似軸效應現象，車頭會左右擺動。小推桿加M馬達的組合，姿態很棒，不過向上攀爬時後橋壓力大，還是建議採用不轉向的後橋，會更加結實可靠。 Unimog 427 Upgrade Version Unimog 406
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Yes, yes yes... I am going to build another Audi After a very good result of my previous Audi, I thought with those design parameters I can't make a better car. Therefore I wanted to do something different, yet similar. I am going to scale up (slightly), and add a bunch of new features. I also realised that performance of the result won't be comparable to the previous one. The main reason for that is, that I am not going to use buggy motors. I recieved many questions like: "can I build it without expensive buggy motors?'' . I will be using these wheels: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=41896c04#T=S&O={"iconly":0}. I want the car to be 19 studs wide and have a wheel base of around 25 studs. The design parameters are: All wheel drive (quattro) with a central differential and without diffs on the axles. Front and rear independent suspenion. 50-50% (or close) weight distribution Servo steering (perhabs with steering wheel) Driving using two L motors 4 speed sequentail gearbox (servo operated) A good looking bodywork that reflects modern Audi's A good looking interior without any electronics/mechanisms visible Funcionality does not compromise for aesthetics (previous version is a great example) BuWizz power I allready have made some progress on the front axle. This is the result of many hours of puzzeling. It meets the requirements mentioned above. The buwizz is located behind the front axle and underneath the future dashboard. Axle for driving runs underneath the buwizz. I used these parts for the steering rack. It is connected to an eight tooth gear. On the same axles sits a 16 tooth gear which connects with the 20 thooth gear connected to the servo. The turning radius is great. I used these parts to stabilize the CV joints The next step will be to design the gearbox and rear axle. They will be integrated to save space. Comments, questions and feedback are highly appreciated! -
Good Day everyone! After completing MPATEV-01 (video&LDD file coming soon) and not able to progress on Saber, decided to build something from my bucket list. And there was 8258 B. After a somewhat boring build process the final result was not very satisfying, so my first idea was to motorise it. However keeping the model as it is would be extremely boring, so the whole chassis and rear part were dismantled, leaving only the front, bonnet and hoods . Next a 4X4 (AWD probably but you've been clickbaited mwahahah ) with open diffs was made. No reduction from the XL motor but the one in-between driveshaft and diffs. On front there are two gray (old gray - undetermined type) springs and on the rear a leaf axle out of 9l links (idea by ZBLJ). Of course that horrendously enormous fake motor was kicked out and substituted with a cute mini V8. Interior is as crude as the original but now with even less foot space and a switch under the dashboard. Steering through M motor and hockey spring combo, M motor-powered winch controlled with the LBG connector on dashboard. For power I opted for a "classic" PF receiver and custom wired 9V battery neatly fixed with a net in the bed. Overall not the best performance but it's quick yet (relatively) powerful. Front winch is detacheable to improve climbing angle (approximately 50 degrees maximum). I haven't named it a MOD because most of it was made from zero, and the N2 is because this is a successor to one of my early RC MOCs - pickup N1 https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/127500-moc-4x4-off-road-pickup-n1/ (my imitation of 9398 as I couldn't afford one and still can't) LDD file DOWNLOAD Video: (sorry it's 30° outside, batteries died and I ain't frying myself 2 times for some offroading outside ) Have a nice weekend, Cya later! -
My own speed build video of LEGO Technic 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader. Funcionality review video will be later in august. Currently the control+ app is not available for download :D Speed-build video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgss_ZFzWEA
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Hello everyone! Thanks to the purple Titanian, it took 18 months for coming back from yet another dark age in my life. Now I am here with yet another pickup truck. Design was inspired by Ford Raptor, Dodge Ram and GMC Sierra. Dacoma 4x4 Redux Weight: 1360g -Powered by Sbrick -2 L motors for propulsion -Servo motor for steering -M motor for two speed gearbox, (sort of) limited-slip center differential and lockable rear differential -LED for headlights -Openable hood,doors and tailgate Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qMUH1YmF1F4&t=1s This is an improved version of my Dacoma pickup truck and TLC 80. I could not finish building instructions for them because they had fatal drawbacks on their drivetrain. In low gear, bevel gears in center differential often skip and pop out by the torque of propulsion motors. To make it reliable, it was necessary to reduce the stress on center diff while handling higher torque in low gear. The gearbox works sequentially. (1 - 2 - 3 - 2 - 1) 1: High - 2: Low - 3: Low with rear diff lock In low gear, center diff works like limited-slip diff. In high gear, two L motors are coupled and rotate center differential together. Front and rear axles are driven via open center diff. In low gear, only one L motor rotates center diff. Another motor is connected only to rear axle. (In other words, it just supports rear half of drivetrain.) Which means rear half of axle in center diff is (nearly) locked. That means front half of axle in center diff is locked as well. Maximum suspension travel is not as long as older Dacoma truck. But new one articulates better thanks to softer front suspension. Years ago I happened to get some rare blue parts from old sets. So I could build it in blue. With a few tweaks, it can be built in white, orange or black. Building instructions: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-25520/Madoca1977/dacoma-4x4-redux/#comments I hope you will like it. And I will work hard not to take a long time for sharing next model.
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Tiger 4 x 4 x 4
Zerobricks posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
After completion and playing with the Leopard for a few months, I noticed the model had a few shortcomings which I wanted to eliminate with this version. These include: Suspension oscilations at high torque High center of gravity Instability on rough terrain at high speeds Most of these issues were due to the usage of the torque tube suspension which is simply too heavy and unresponsive at high speeds. What I needed was to replace the live axle suspension with independent suspension while keeping the articulation needed for offroading. Here's what I came up with: Let's break down the suspension to it's basic components to better understand how it works: Colored green are the main shock absorbers. These caryy most of the wight and provide a high suspension travel Colored orange are the gearbox transfer arms which fix each perpendicular gearbox firmly to the suspension, thereby reducing friction and fixing the U joints to keep them from popping out. Colored black are the side beams which help guide the transfer arms and hold the suspension together Colored in red and gray are the two independent drivelines powering the wheels. Finally in transparent, the suspension arms are made as long as possible for maximum suspension travel. I built the first version with this setup, but soon discovred a flaw. The torque from the drivelines would push the suspension arms down, causing the suspension to stop responding (indicated with red and grey arrows in photo above). In order to solve this problem I added the suspension bridge above, colored in pruple. The suspension bridge performs the following functions: Compensation of the driveline torque Supports 20% of the model's weight Improves articulation when going over rough terrain With the suspension solved, I turned my attention to the chassis. I wanted a model with high torque and high speed. To achieve that I installed a two speed gearbox for each independent driveline powered by a total of 4 RC motors: Finally a very sturdy chassis based on frames was built to support the model. Each axle was given it's own independent steering with servo motor and each driveline has an M motor for switching gears. This redundacy means that even if half of the model breaks down, it can still drive back home. Next step was building the model in real life. Thanks to ForwART's custom stickers the exterrior really came to life: The doors can be opened, revelaing two seats and the steering wheel: Each wheel has over 6 cm of wheel travel, allowing the Tiger extreme articulation rivaling live axle setups: And let's not forget the most important photo of them all: Finally, since there is only so much I can tell in words, enjoy the video experience: As usual the LDD file of the model is available by clicking the photo or link below: https://www.bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/tiger-4x4x4/Tiger 4x4x4.lxf To summarize, compared to the previous Leopard, the Tiger has the following improvements: Improved stability due to the independent suspension and low chassis Higher top speed due to the gearboxes Eliminated suspension oscilation Improved performance at high speed thanks to lighter and more responsive independent suspension Improved maneuverability thanks to all wheel steering Sadly there are also a few drawbacks which I plan to fix in the future version: When pushing the model hard in Ludicrous mode and in low gear the 12 tooth bewel gears can get damaged and need to be replaced Low steering angle (18 degrees) Because only one servo motor is used per axle, steering is more prone to be bumped out of center. -
Hey Eurobricks, PunktacoNYC back again with another rock crawler! This time it's called the Rocket Crawler and it is my largest, fastest crawler yet. Youtube video: Features: - 4 L-Motors for drive (one per wheel) - Ackerman steering with custom virtual pivot system to maximize steering angle - Rigid, triangulated 4-link suspension with 100% Lego-legal original, extra large links - Very minimal, light bodywork, and a cute rocket atop the cab - BuWizz for extra power and SBrick for a great custom control scheme - RC4WD 2.2” Bully Competition Tires The initial inspiration for this crawler was twofold; I wanted to build a RC competition super-class-like crawler, what with giant relative wheel size, slim body, and high articulation. I also really wanted to make use of RC4WD's quite large Bully competition tires. This project has been in development for over a year thanks primarily to issues with the front axle. The problem with the front axle was that Lego universal joints simply could not handle the high torque required to spin such large tires. I tried using custom Lego universal joints custom dremeled brass remote-controlled boat u-joints, and even knob gears at the pivot point - nothing worked. So, I mounted the motors directly to the wheels, all within a virtual system to move the steering pivot closer to the center of the wheel for a better turning radius. There is approximately 90° of articulation between the front and rear axles: Easily adjustable suspension height: (high) (medium) (low) The chassis: Wheel comparison: Concept 1: Concept 2 (later): This has been my favorite project. Let me know what you think. P.s. I got a snupps page (nice idea, Sariel): https://www.snupps.com/punktaconyc -
Yes, there are dozens upon dozens of LEGO models of the Sherp ATV. I’ve only decided to build my own because I had this idea about how a suspension could be added to it (yes, the real Sherp has suspension according to the manufacturer) and I just had to try it out. The result is a dead simple vehicle that can go 7 KPH on flat terrain and literally rips through snow: Photos & reading: http://sariel.pl/2019/01/sherp-atv/ -
While brinstorming ideas, I came up with a really wacky idea. Why not build a classic, but give it a twist? With that in mind, I decided to build a 1:12 scale DeLorean with tracks for wheels and the following functions and features: Motorized drive and steering using PF L and 1 PU L motor Powered and controlled by a BuWizz 3.0 AWD Independent suspension on all.. Tracks? Tiltable track bases Working steering wheel Working V6 fake engine Openable gullwing doors Fully detailed interior with 2 seats Accurate shaping using a 3D reference This is the result and the current WIP status: As with all my replicas of real models, I found a 3D reference model, edited out one of the doors so that interior is better visible and imported it into LDD: As you can see, the model follows the reference quite well given it's scale, I even went into the detail of slightly tapering both bumpers. Of course the wheel arches and before mentioned bumpers had to be slightly cut to fit the tracks, but the model should still be instantly recognizable. So now it's just the matter of building it from real bricks, I will post WIP photos as the project progresses.