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Now not to be confused with this thread here (Third Party Tires for Lego Technic Rims by Efferman), This Thread is Different in the Sense that I developed LEGO Modification instead of just wheel swapping. Now it is RC Tires Mods for Lego Technic Axles. Here below is a Rubber RC Tire. The Wheel does not fit over Lego Axles to begin with. Its hard to tell from picture but trust me the hole on the RC wheel is too small to fit around the LEGO Axle. And that is where the First Modification begins. In this picture Below is the aftermath of the first Wheel Modification. Now because I live in U.S and measurements are defined in standard I'm using a 3/16 drill bit to make this hole which is 4.7 mm for those who know metric.I used a Drill Press for a center and aligned hole for it. Just take Note that the Drilled Hole is little smaller from the patented LEGO Technic Hole so the Lego Axle will have nice tight fit with it naturally if you use a Standard drill bit to do this. Now Once the hole was drilled my next step was attaching it to LEGO Axle Bushing. This is where the Challenge is because I needed to somehow fix this Axle Bushing inline with the Hole. Now I made this LEGO Wheel Stand here to fix the Lego Bushing inline with the RC Tire. I placed the busing on top of the Axle to show you what it looks like with out the tire. With the Tire sitting level on the Lego Part, I used Super Glue for a quick bond between the LEGO Bushing and the RC tire. Now the Super glue is just there to make a nice initial bond. The real Holding bond will be done with JB weld filling in the 12mm Hexnut wheel mount. Take note that the Pictures Below are with out the Lego Bushing and only relying upon the natural hold between the tire and the axle. I took these pictures because there will be plenty of pictures when the RC Lego Tire Mod is finished. -
Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Well It has been some time since I last posted a finished MOC, so I present my latest creation, the Peacemaker, a Chrysler Challenger Valiant body mounted on a Ripsaw tank chassis. It was a interesting build, as it isn't very common to see a car mounted on a tracked chassis. The model turned out pretty well, as I don't really build cars too often, but the vehicle lacked proper performance, as there are 2 L motors with 1:1 ratios to the drive sprockets. This was a attempt to create a fast vehicle, but it lacks torque. The filming of it allowed me to do a couple new things with cameras, I built a small motorized dolly that I could mount my camera on for certain angles of the Ripsaw in action. This MOC features -suspended pendular bogies -V6 engine powered by adder between the 2 L Motors Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr -
As promised (I know I'm a bit late ) my new project! Recyclopse from robot wars it was a big roundish bot with an exendible tongue that has a flipper hided into it, Made with recyled materials: recycl-opse As usual i start building from the aesthetics, because i have few pieces to make that green shield, this is the shield with the tongue and a try to put electronics inside I used dark green bricks (the only i have) that has the same color of the real one but the result is a piramidal shape, fit everything in will be an hard challenge I thought about three options: -one RC motor (pump+valve) for the flipper, L/M motor for tongue extension -one M motor for the flipper; one L motor for tongue extension -one XL motor for tongue extension, at the end of the travel two strings linked to the chassis will act the flipper (M motors are for the wheels, trough chains) hope I can make sole tries asap, last hope is to make a 2 section angulation for the shield (=more space) but this means gray shield or maybe with mixed pieces... receivers will replace that green transparent brick -
Hi, everyone! It’s been a long time since I posted my last MOC on EB. Today I’m gonna show you one of the projects I’ve been working on lately: a flatbed tow truck / US style wrecker. This is the biggest MOC I’ve made so far...And it is packed with loads of features & functions. Some general specs: Weight: over 4 KG Parts used: over 3800 pcs Dimensions: 760mm (L) x 170mm (W) x 220mm (H) It features: - V8 fake engine - Openable doors - Working headlights - Independent suspensions on front axle - Pendular suspensions with shock absorbers on rear axles Motorized functions: There are 8 motorized fuctions in total, powered by 9 PF motors, remotely controlled by 1 IR Controller + 1 IR Speed Controller (channel switching on both controllers is needed), simple structure with no gear box: - 2 XL for propulsion - 1 Servo for steering - 1 M for opening bonnet - 1 M for wheel lift lowering & raising - 1 M for wheel lift reaching out & retracting - 1 M for bed tilting - 1 L for bed sliding - 1 L for winch A video showing all functions: (Original video on YouTube is 60fps, don’t know why it doesn’t work here) I managed to hide all motors inside the chassis, including the one that powers the winch. I’ll talk about it later. Some more video clips: (Again, all 60fps) This is the propulsion motors assembly. 2 XL hard-coupled with 12-teeth bevel gears, and has a total gear ratio of 25 : 9 before power reaching rear-axle differentials. That’s enough torque to propel this heavy truck. Rear axles have pendular suspensions, connected by 3 small turntables. Soft springs are for balancing. Structure is solid enough to bear the load, but I also designed a similar one with extra support on the middle turntable. It’s 1 stud longer so I didn’t use it on this already long truck. This is what the chassis looks like.I was wearing latex gloves for anti-sweating... Eight 200mm-long PF extension cables were used to connect motors to IR receivers and IR receivers to battery pack. They were well hidden right underneath the battery pack. Now let’s take a look at the bed. In the picture above, the arrows indicate how power goes up the bed. Red ones are for bed sliding while green ones are for the winch. I decided not to put a motor on the bed because it is ugly and too big. A real flatbed’s winch motor is fairly small compared to its size and usually unnoticeable. As a result, I have to compromise on deck height... More photos: At last, I have to say I’m not satisfied with this MOC for several reasons: Deck height: just too high for a flatbed. As I will not compromise on a visible motor on bed, height increased at least 3 studs. Loading angle: about 19 degrees, not a good number Most importantly, too long and too heavy. Front wheels and Servo are working under high pressure, even with 3 hard springs on each side the front part is still overburdened. Perhaps an extra pair of wheels in the middle would solve the problem, but it will lose its aesthetics and no longer looks like a longnose US truck. I didn’t want to publish it at the beginning because it’s imperfect, but I spent too much time on it and don’t want to waste it, so finally created this topic and shared it with you. Again, see my other creations on Rebrickable at: http://rebrickable.com/designer/musenkevin And my YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/KevinMoo Enjoy! -
I've created an Arduino shield to control Lego Power Functions: An Arduino is a small, programmable microcontroller with lots of I/O (input/output) pins. It can be programmed from a computer, and it can interface with various devices. An Arduino shield is a circuit board that mounts onto the top of an Arduino to give it extra functionality. It is powered from a Power Functions plug, and has 3 channels that can be controlled via bluetooth, or programmed with the Arduino. See the kickstarter for more info: http://kck.st/1KqXFFV, and if you want one, please consider backing it. I will post some images of it in various models if you guys like it. What are your opinions on it, or do you have any improvements to suggest? -
Hi! Sometimes we can hear in different Lego communities, that it's an exciting activity to build out of our comfort zone. And it's completely true! Well, it's my second creation at this scale, but the first one, which is a model of a real vehicle. (My Johnny English Truck was a replica of the functions only.) I'm very curious, what you think about it. The bus is a completely remote controlled 1:24 model. (length: 64 studs, width: 14 studs, height: 17 studs, approx 2050 elements) It's possible to drive it, to steer it, and to open and close the doors separately. You can find the technical detailes and a short text about Credo buses below, after the video. Nowadays Credo buses are well-known in Hungary. They are produced by the Kravtex-Kühne group. At the beginning, the group used a Czech license, but the Econell 12 (presented at the end of 2011) is completely Hungarian development. I often travel by Credo buses between the place where I live and the university. Unfortunately, they are usually older types. But I have already travelled by the Econell 12, its very comfortable. Picture of the real: If you search on Google for Credo buses, you may notice, that the wheels look very small. Its the speciality of Kravtex-Kühne group, some of their buses are produced with smaller wheels, so they are lighter and they dont need so much gas. Big buses with small wheels looked a little bit strange, but I think the Econell 12 looks great with the big black mudguards/fenders. I think the new front and rear panels with the black frames around the lights are fantastic, too. Behind this link you can find a lot of pictures about the real Econell 12 and other Credo models, too. Choose option 'Galéria'! And now pictures: The most tricky part of the bus was the front. It's only 3 stud long, but contains as many crazy building techniques as possible, and one more! I'm really proud of it. I will show you later, how I built it. I think it's the minimum. Technical details: The driving mechanism contains two L motors, both motors drive one axle and this axle drives the differential. I used a servo motor for the steering. The doors are opened and closed by two M motors. The chassis is very long, but I had to put two holes in it, because the doors need space. Due to the holes it was impossible to find place for everything at this level. But there are a lot of space under the roof, so the really interesting things are under and around the air conditioner. The spinning of the motors is slowed down by worm screws. The 1x3 technic half liftarms convert the spinning to horizontal motion. The video shows how it works, these pictures below show how it looks like. More pictures on Mocpages, as always! If you visit Hungary, don't forget to try to travel by old Ikarus buses and new Credo buses! Thanks for watching! -
Hi guys I was experimenting with my RC motors (I don't have power functions yet) and well, the motors are going crazy. I saw a topic mentioning putting 2 motors under one baseplate that whould be impossible as the motors would work against each other. But if im putting 2 wires on the battery box the motor that is connected to the top wire is driving backwards! Does someone know what is happening?
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Hi guys, This is my LTR (Lego Technic Rally) car, which i have build a few years ago. It has independent suspension on all wheels and it is all wheel drive. Because it is for rally i have used two RC motors for propulsion and experimental gearbox (low gear for offroad, high gear for flat roads and downhills). As you will see in video everyone use cable remote, it's because of RC motors power consumption (in that time there wasn't V2 reciever) and weight. This car no longer exist, but i still have the chassis without gearbox. Remotely controlled functions (cable): Driving (2 RC buggy motor) Steering (http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/47154) Gearbox (M motor) Propulsion: slower RC motor output to gearbox ( 1:1, N, 12:20) and then 20:28 (differential) Steering: 12:20 to 8:steering rack Weight: about 850g Speed: (fast walk) :-D Brickshelf gallery: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=490253 Video(from the Race): Front: Back: Bottom: -
This is my first teaser :3 (I'm so proud of it ) i want to open this thread in order to ask people if they could be interested on my work, so, going to the main topic: I joined a small exhibition here in Rome where I showed four simple RC lego cars, three of them are mine (showed also in only one of my post here on Eurobricks :3) the fourth is the Dawnbreaker and I hope I can film a video for it, so I can add to the original thread a comparison with the other chassis, that are: -green stylized trophy truck -yellow stylized Tyrrell P34 -black stylized hot rod (maybe with driver that make it drift really well muhahaah) "stylized" because I want to build small car and I don't have lots of pieces for the aesthetics, but I guarantee the look nice ;) My problem is that I don't have time to film (for the offroad ones I need a whole saturday free of tasks, so for me isn't a simple work to fully present a MOC) and some times i know that the look of my creations don' catch the attention of lots of people I don't want to make empty topics ;) so i decided to ask how i should organize those "simple chassis series" topics, my idea is: -3 different topic -topic as review of the car -techniques used in the cars -small test video -video with description and some clip running outdoors -a final topic (yes :3) with the video of a tournament between those cars the same kind of LTIR competition The different topic (posted with a gap of 3-4 days) could be a tutorial for people who want to start building something funny with lego, and they will find 4 different cars with 4 different difficulties and 4 different kind of pieces (common or rare); I also want to build LDD file for each car and change the file for the dawnbreaker in a better one. What you think about this organization of the topics? should I post only one topic with all the cars together? Also if videos will be uploaded really late? Also if you want to suggest another kind of chassis that I can make to substitute the dawnbreaker feel free to suggest it, and if you have built a chassis of this kind i can build and review it as one of the chassis but not mine, so we can see which is the best during the race! Goodbye!
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I am building a new MOC, and it is a bulldozer. The main base was the tracks for 8043 and I was using about 75% of 8043 parts to build it. It is still not done, just needs some cosmetic work. And there is no ripper( didn't plan on putting one on anyway.)I would post photos, but I have absolutely no clue how to do that. Any help would be appreciative.
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G'day everyone. Thought Id share the RC conversion I did on the 24 hr car. My sons have been racing it on smooth concrete so I didn't have to worry about torque, just speed. Using 2 L motors for drive, servo motor for steering and 2 M motors for the doors and rear hood. This setup is no good on carpet but if you swap the two bevel gears around on the fake V8 it can run on carpet. The pieces in pink are the pieces I added. The pieces in blue represent the servo motor and the ones in orange are the L motors. Sorry no video just a lxf file (Ldd) which can be downloaded from here: http://www.freespace.com.au/filehosting/2075 have fun if you build it.
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I haven't posted any of my own content recently due to lack of time and ideas, but about a month ago my last attempt at a high speed vehicle was sitting on my desk, partially disassembled, when I got a spark in my mind and I knew exactly what to do. Previously I made multiple failed attempts at making a complex independent suspension work, but I couldn't get a practical result without modifying parts, which I wanted to avoid. So this time around I went for a solid axle with 4 link suspension. I spent a long time building and rebuilding the car until I got a balance of power, weight, and strength that I was happy with. Apart from a couple pieces I forgot to add here and there, this is the final build: I could have gone for lower weight, but the reinforcements were necessary to bring the chassis flex to a minimum, letting the suspension do its job. The car barely bottoms out under full compression, but I doubt this will happen out on the road. The higher clearance and lack of u-joints should reduce the risk of damaging parts. The rear wheels are driven by two buggy motors each, acting as an electronic differential. Since the motors are DC motors, this system will never be perfect, but it's as good as it gets. The only modified lego pieces on this build are the pneumatic cylinders (now act as dampened shocks) and the wheelhubs (made by nicjasno at LPEpower ) The front suspension is independent multilink, my own blend of various ideas I got from nicjasno's Standard servo steering. I lubricated the large ball joints on the upper 'wishbones' to reduce friction. Nice and smooth underside, which also adds to the structural rigidity (note the numerous pins) Another look at the multilink setup in action I've already tested this model on the road, and it performs very well, but I won't be making a video until I receive an order of 4 brand new custom wheel hubs, as the current set have experienced some serious wear and tear over the past year thanks to my punishing tests If you are new or aren't familiar with my previous projects, this chassis is powered by a near 12 volt battery and a 3rd party RC system that I made work with Lego motors. Multiple people have asked why I don't build bodywork for any of these large scale vehicles, and to be honest, I really enjoy building the chassis, while bodywork is...meh. I could get better with practice, but I simply don't want to spend time perfecting a body, and the extra weight would reduce the play factor, unless I become a wizard with flex axles . I think this model is the ultimate balance of speed, moderate realism, and weight, (within my building style) so I don't see myself making anything new soon with my other hobbies and work taking up most of my time. Special thanks to nicjasno for the tips on the front suspension, and for making the LPEpower parts/show. Feel free to leave any comments/criticisms/ideas for a new project. Enjoy! -
Having none of the new 3 wide driving rings is a problem if you want to build Sariel's new RC gearbox, so I decided to modify the gearbox to work with the 2 wide driving rings for all to use. I have made the LDD file which you can download below. Full credit goes to Sariel for the original design and his post can be found here: http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=107240 The green and red axles on the sides are supposed to be connected to the green and red right pieces on the model, it is like this due to LDD not allowing me to place the sides on the model. Any faults in the model, put them in comments and I'll fix them when I can Enjoy the gearbox! Sariel's 4 Speed RC Gearbox Using 2-Wide Driving Rings.lxf -
I just released on Rebrickable my Lego Technic model of a Rolls-Royce Phantom II Coupe [1934] The model is fully RC controlled and has back-side suspension, functioning side-folding bonnet, trunk, suicide doors and working engine. It is operated by 2 L-motors and a servo for steering. I build it in about 40 hr. over a period of 2 weeks and made instruction of it that are free to download from Rebrickable. http://www.rebrickab...m-ii-coupe-1934 Be sure to also check out my other models on Rebrickable. Update: Just have to add these incredibly nice renderings that jesuskyr made for me at his own initative. Thanks a lot for them. More pictures are in the later postings in this topic. -
Hey all, Finally, four years after the February 2011 Christchurch earthquake our driveway is being rebuilt so I figured this would be the perfect opportunity for me to test out the 42030 Volvo L350F Wheel Loader in the landscape it belongs in In the instruction book for this set, one of the first pages says 'Indoor use only' but the loader would be nowhere near as fun if you couldn't go out and move some dirt/sand! Sorry if some of the pictures are a bit hard to see but my only opportunity to get out while there was a large pile of dirt was at 7:00am Looks like the perfect environment for a little loader work, too good to resist! Play 'guess which earthmover is Lego!' The mountain goat heads up for another attack. The Loader needs more torque/grip to get a good scoop but it did the job. (Note the very sandy 'dirt' where I live ) Got a good scoop of sand, time to take it to the offload point, As you can imagine the loader gets quite dirty quite quickly With the hole filled in, it's time for the loader to do its other job, compacting. Job done. My feedback on the loaders capability on the sand doing some proper work: For a proper set by TLG it did pretty impressively, though a locked differential would come in handy many, many times. It doesn't have as much torque as it needs to dig in to the sand cliff for a big load but you can get enough of a scoop. The power is certainly more than enough for where Lego wants you to use it This set is definitely a purchase I don't regret, getting me RC and an XL motor, plus working very well and looking great! As with all photos I upload to EB, you can find them and more in a higher resolution on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kiwi_Builder
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Hey all, I have been working on an MAN SL202 in the Redbus NZ paint scheme: This model has full suspension including an auto-kneeling function where when the front door is opened the front left air suspension is lowered. I have built most of the chassis and the front and rear suspension, but as you will see the front suspension needs a complete overhaul due to steering problems. Time to stop rambling on and give you some images Air hoses are for the kneeling. Rear view. Front view of front suspension, not the left side wheel is over-rotating when steering and causes the wheel to lock at a right angle to the chassis and stopping forward movement. When it is able to drive the steering is at a bad angle when straight and this causes a large amount of resistance. When the steering is turned the geometry is way off and causes major sledging and resistance. The front axle when kneeling. The pump and RC switch for the suspension lowering and raising. Rear suspension design. Rear suspension's range of movement. Chassis view. So as you can see the project is coming along nicely but the front axle suspension needs a complete overhaul so any designs that work well would be greatly appreciated These photos and more can be found in a bigger size on my Bricksafe: http://bricksafe.com/pages/Kiwi_Builder/Technic.
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Hi to all! waiting to the sun to film the RC Dawnbreaker I've edited and posted an old video that I've made to test my battle bots: crab and scorpion. During the video me and my cousin were talking in italian but don't worry: i've added some subtitles just to translate our wisecracks ;) Some stats about the robots: GRANCHIO (crab) weight: 900g weapons: claws motors: 2 XL(wheels) 2L(claws) strengths: 4x4, can keep the ball weaknesses: (hardly) flippable SCORPIONE(scorpion) weight: 900g weapons: flipping arm motors: 2 M (wheels) 1 L (reloading winch) 1 old 9V (gearbox) strenghts: atomic-like powerful weapon, defensive/offensive weapon weaknesses: hard to control (really), low traction enjoy the video (likes and comments are welcome if you like it ;) )
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Hi to all! Proud to present you my latest MOC… ops, sorry, my latest MOD! First I have to thank MajklSpajkl that made an awesome MOC, but he has also made my work possible, so I decided to put some link to his creation: original topic, (where you can find instructions)second here is my MOD: important pieces I've add: -lipo BB (same size of the AAA one) -M motor -L motor -receiver -16M axle (EDIT ) -yellow shocks -U-joint I built this in more or less 30 minutes but it is a really funny creation! is has also a particular return-to-center steering based on an old force: GRAVITY! how it works it is simple (hope I can explain it as simple as it is ahaha): the car has an high caster angle, this angle auto-center the wheels while running forward, I've put the M motor directly linked to the steering 5,5 axle and it works well! in fact when the motor move the steering it forces the mechanism so when you release the command this elastic force make the motor turning back more or less at the center, it is not important that it is perfectly centered, because the high play of the steering make the caster angle center it with more accuracy :3 here are some photos (it has different colors because i've not built it from the two original set)
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The last entry I will be making for a while (still need to start on my next project) is about a small Tracked Cube that I designed during a long weekend. The challenge was to make it as compact as possible (but still looking cool and studless and still possible to operate well with the RC. When I posted instructions on Rebrickable I got quite positive responses so I also want to whare it with you. Looks boring at first, but the fun part is seeing it in actions. Due to the closely spaced tracks the turning speed it quite OK. Not my best video (actually my very first, hence the professional editing ) Hope you like it and when you have the parts, just build it :sweet: : http://www.rebrickab...tracked-cube-rc
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Just start this topic with a picture, it is full of hint about how I want To build my MOC (and I hope i success) What are them? :D
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Hello everyone It’s good to have some spare time but better that sitting on the couch is to present one of my last MOCs – Front Loaded Garbage Truck. The truck was made almost three months ago (but I done it from scratch in 8 days!) for our local LUG contest. The goal was to made something up to 2000 pieces and maximum of 4 engines. I thought that front loaded garbage truck could be a nice playable model and I haven’t seen much of them made from Lego. The truck of course fit to rules so it has a four remote functions like: - driving and steering - lifting arms - moving front forks In addition to electric functions there are two pneumatic (with manual pump) – dumping the whole body and opening tailgate. If you want more accurate specification: Weight: 1700g Dimensions: 19 studs wide, 22 studs high, 53 studs long (15.2x17.6x42.4cm) Parts: almost 1900 The truck is designed to emptying big waste bins. Whole process don’t take much time. Lifting functions are motorized so you don’t have to even touch a truck to dump wastes into body. Lifting the arms are operated by L motor connected to two big linear actuators. For moving forks I used a M motor and built a long shaft through arm to connect small LA’s. Each small linear actuator is driven by 6 universal joints. Maybe it don’t sound good but I have to say that everything works fast and fine. First you have to do is drive up to waste bin. Then lift it above body using arms. Meanwhile flap mounted on top of body opens itself and then you roll over waste bin with front forks. When bin is empty simply lower arms and put it onto ground. For driving I used XL motor with total gear reduction 1:1.4 That ratio gives you an opportunity to push truck by hand (and engine will turn). Steering is simply operated by PF Servo. As I said at the beginning there are two pneumatic functions. For opening tailgate I used one small pneumatic cylinder and for lifting body – two big cylinders. Lowering body and tailgate is done by gravity – there is no need to use air pressure. For more playability I made two waste bins – green and red. Maybe this is not a masterpiece but it had to be light. So what say more? I think that movie will say everything that possibly I forgot to write :) -
I see [TC6] has heated the atmosphere quite a bit, so I propose a run in the snow, for relaxation purposes :) One of the best choices for this activity is my Dirt Crusher MOD, a snow-ready half-track beast that I named Tracker, for kicks. It's based on the amazing Prowler (RC), built by the one of the best Lego tank creators in the world, Tommy Styrvoky! Thank you, master ;) Photos of the beast after some test runs: YouTube video of it's first run on snow: The 2nd video, filmed closer, and after reinforcing the treads: I still have no clue how to embed a video on these forums, who can help me out? :) You will notice Technic bricks flying off in a spectacular fashion, it seems the half-stud pins are not the best choice for this powerhouse. But I do need some way to increase traction on soft or thick snow, so if anyone has any idea what to replace them with, please let me know, thank you. -
Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I present my latest model, a ISU-152 Soviet heavy self propelled gun. It was built off of the chassis of my IS-2, the 152mm cannon can fire technic beams with a 6 round autoloader. Features full suspension with self tensioning track gun elevation/depression 6 round autoloader led lights Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego ISU-152 (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
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I was really happy to know that 8369 and 8675 sets are somewhat compatible with Technic. A lot of time passed since I acquired a copy while thinking what can I build around it. Yes, build and test it! Youtube videos show these models are very powerful and probably are the fastest LEGO ever. So there was LitLUG & LatLUG meeting where you normally need to bring something with yourself to show off . So there was a deadline and all of a sudden interesting idea came to my mind. Also there was a quite big area, just about right for the model to run - no way I would miss such opportunity! There's just no place at home for such beast. I used default 8369 as a base to build my MOC, there is a standard front suspension with adjustable shock absorber, but the back has no suspension. Since I wanted to build a drifting car and there was a very smooth floor - basically there was no need for rear suspension at all. Model is quite heavy (2Kg) - it is all because of the base as the outer shell doesn't add much, but weight is not an issue. Car is drive-able on the lowest gear only, when using other two it still can go straight, but just drifts when trying to make a turn while still on a smooth surface. The power. I had two batteries, and made sure they both are charged - just to have a lot of fun during the event! However it turned out I had just 5 minutes with each battery, that's 10 minutes. Not much to have fun , looks like batteries are quite old and lost their capacity. Sorry for the lack of photos (I rarely have access to proper camera). Below you can see the only picture taken while on event (he-he, you won't find me on this photo): 13_12_2014_RJTC-71 by latlug_lv As you may notice RDR01 has proper test racing driver - The Stig You can check how models drift on this very short video, while batteries were still alive. I hope to share more photos soon, including a swap with black tires. I wonder how RDR01 would look with red tires as well...
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AWD MiniKart is my latest creation using three differentials. This is my first attempt at building an All-Wheel-Drive drivetrain, but it was worthwhile the effort. I wouldn't say this is a huge success, but it works well on perfectly smooth terrain. I do have a few ideas for a 4x4 vehicle now ;) It uses two Large Motors to drive the center differential which distribute the power to all four wheels, and the Medium Motor steers the Rack and Pinion setup. I also built a custom base stand for some video purposes; it's not hard to build and has good usages. Any more information you would like will be happily answered. Until NXT time… DamonMM2000 Please click to watch a detailed video on AWD MiniKart!
